Scott's Garage

Holley 4180c front metering block and bowl gaskets

noreply@blogger.com (Scott) — Sun, 10 Nov 2024 20:03:00 +0000

Holley 4180c Carburetors (as found on my 1983 Mustang 5.0) have unique front metering block and bowl gaskets.

The 4180c metering block gaskets are: Holley 108-55-2

The 4180c bowl gaskets are: Holley 108-56-2

86 SSP Mustang Update

noreply@blogger.com (Scott) — Sun, 18 Oct 2020 00:33:00 +0000

So I realized that I hadn't posted any progress updates on the 86 SSP that I picked up a while back. The first thing I did was replace the exhaust from the headers back. It read 119 decibels on the decibel meter with the as-delivered dumped Flowmasters! (Relatively speaking that's right between chainsaw/leaf-blower and an ambulance siren or thunderclap.) I thought the neighbors might form a revolt if I kept it that way for long, so I threw in a new catted 2.5" BBK h-pipe I had laying around and Magnaflow Stainless Steel mufflers with some 2.5" tailpipes. That dropped it to below 100db.

The next thing I did was start fixing leaks and replacing old hoses. These things don't like to sit, so I replaced the trans pan gasket/filter, cooling hoses, header gaskets and the valve cover gaskets. While I had those off, I adjusted the valves. (They were all over the place!!) When I had that back together and adjusted, I reset the timing and idle as well.

Thankfully, the guy that built the car kept most of the old parts he took off when he made it a race car, so there hasn't been too much parts-chasing to make it streetable again, so I added the power steering back in.

Somewhere in the car's journey, it had been converted over use the later model quarter window glass. The job hadn't been very thorough and they just taped the new glass over the old glass and cut the trim off by the front mirror, rather than sourcing the matching later model mirrors. The adhesive was coming off and it a bit too Frankenstein-y for my liking, so I converted it back to the original style glass and trim.

Then I replaced the broken cowl grille and painted some of the trim that had been painted white.

That's where it stands for now. Recently took it on its first maiden voyage outside of the neighborhood to go grab some parts from the parts house. Was out and about for about 30 minutes in 90 degree heat and got stuck in stop-and-go traffic. It started to get a little warm towards the very end, so I put in a new thermostat and I ordered a much larger, shrouded dual fan and fancy controller that will be going in next!

DIY longboard skateboard

noreply@blogger.com (Scott) — Mon, 06 Jul 2020 01:06:00 +0000

My teenage son is pretty hard to shop for, so this year for his birthday I decided to make him something. For the past year or two, he has been increasingly getting into riding skateboards. He's got a couple of different boards, but didn't have a long board and I've been curious about those for a long time, so after watching a lot of of YouTube videos, I worked up the courage and started ordering parts.

The biggest source of inspiration and probably the simplest and most straightforward process explanation came from The Absolute Easiest Way to Build a Longboard video from Good Roads. I ended up borrowing a few different ideas from other tutorials, but doing it using 2 sheets of 3-ply Baltic Birch seemed like one of the easiest ways to get started. (My press ended up taking a lot of cues from Cash's How To Make a Longboard / Skateboard Press | CashedOutBoards video.)

I started by making the press. Since I didn't have a table I could clamp it to as in the video (and I wanted the process to be repeatable since I got the stuff to make myself one next ;-)), I picked up a 2x10" a the big box store (making sure to get the flattest one I could find) to use as the base of the press and cut it down to 40" with my radial saw. To make the parts of the form that would shape the wood when pressed against, I uses some 1x2"s I had laying around and I rounded off the inside corners with a sander. I screwed them on with counter-sunk 2" screws so that the screw heads wouldn't bite into the deck and I could easily unscrew them to move the forms around in the future. I wanted a teeny bit of kick-up, so I added them to the ends of the press as well as the sides. I then measured carefully and drew center lines in both directions on the press with a marker so help with alignment purposes later.

For the clamping part of the press, I used a 2x4" to make the center press section and made 2 horizontal clamps out of 12" 2x4 pieces and some 3/8" threaded rod with nuts and washers. Make them long enough that you account for the thickness of your base, press pieces and material before it gets squished together! I also marked center lines on these parts.

Now it was time to make the deck. I started by cutting the Baltic Birch sheets I got by following the links in the Good Roads video into two 40" x 10" pieces. I covered the lower section of my press with cling wrap so that if any glue dripped, the deck wouldn't achieve oneness with the press. I found the two sides of the plywood that were the prettiest and labeled them to be sure they were facing out and lightly drew the centerlines on the top piece with a pencil. (The prettiest piece should go on the bottom, since the top will probably be at least partially covered with grip tape.) I laid the bottom piece on the press. Moving quickly, I covered the side facing up with a very liberal coat of Titebond III glue, dumping a ton on and spreading it out with a plastic spatula. Once completely covered, I grabbed the top sheet (making sure to have the pretty side up) and carefully aligned it and set it on top of the glue. Once on, I placed my top press piece on the deck, aligning the center-lines in both directons, placed on the clamp tops, washers and nuts and quickly, moving around the board, tightening each one a little at a time, tightened the clamps until I achieved the desired concavity in the deck I was looking for. To make sure it's even, I used a level to check for front-to-back and side-to-side level of the clamp cross-bars, and I used a caliper to measure the distance between the top and bottom cross-bars on the clamps. Once the main clamps were on, I applied additional cross-bars and clamps closer to the ends of the board. Use as many as you have!

I waited two days to remove the deck from the press. I've heard 24 hours is ok, but I wanted to be sure it was dry as it was pretty humid out. When I was trying to decide what type of deck I wanted to build, I stumbled across some old PDF templates that had been circulating. They were great, because I could print them out at actual size and then tape them to the board and trace them out. Having tons of hills around and wanting something really stable, so I chose a drop through truck design with cutouts for wheel clearance and a super low center of gravity. I printed out the template (8 pages), aligned them, taped them together and then cut out the shape of the board. Again, having center lines traced out helped a ton here.

(it looks like it's separated here, but it's not, it's where the boards moved North/South in comparison to one another as they were being pressed)

I clamped the deck to my work bench and very carefully cut out the shape with a jig saw with a fine jigsaw blade to minimize tear-out. For the straight parts, I cut pretty much on the line, but for the curves, I cut about 1/16th outside the line and then shaped it down to the line on the bench sander.

Lol, fuzzy, but you get the point

I found some drop-through truck hole templates online and marked those out on the board and used 1-1/8th" and 7/8th " Forstner bits on my drill press to make a series of holes and then connected them with a jig saw. I've seen folks use router templates for this, but this seemed to work very well. Use what you have! I used the drill press also to drill the 3/16" truck bolt holes. I counter sunk mine just a touch to prevent cracking. (for drop through, the screw head is against the trucks, not the deck, so you don't need to counter sink it as far as you would if you were trying to counter sink screw heads.)

Now that it's all cut out, next came the sanding. I've seen folks use a router to round-over the edges, but I was a bit hesitant to do that for fear of gouging it with the hand router I have or something, so I put about a 1/4" bevel all the way around the top and bottom edges of the board with the sander, and then used the process outlined in this video The Complete Guide to Perfectly Rounded Longboard Edges to round over the edges. Once it was all shaped, I sanded the whole thing smooth with various grits, working my way up to 220.

Here you can see the concave on the board when cut to size.

I'm not going to go into too much detail about how I finished and painted the board since it fought with me quite a bit and I'm not sure why, so I don't want to give bad advice. I will pay a lot closer attention to the doing it for the next board and see if I can get it nailed down. At a high level, I used a multi-layer candy blue paint job. I ended up getting a weird chemical reaction and some unwanted crackling on the final coat of clear on the stripes, which I though was odd, since all of the materials were from the same kit.

I gave it to him in "kit" form, so he got to put it together himself.

Overall, It turned out great. I'm happy with it and he was incredibly surprised and really loves it, so that's all that counts!

I absolutely love how this board rides! I've never been on a longboard and we took it out for its maiden voyage yesterday and it was so much fun. So smooth and stable! I had lots of fun building it, it's a blast to ride, go try it!

Things I'd do differently: On the press, I'd probably make it a bit longer if I were to do it again in case I wanted to make a longer board in the future. The truck holes were a bit tight, so I ended up needing to "wallow" them out slightly with the 3/16" bit in a hand drill to ease assembly. The board has lots of flex with just the two 1/4" plys. Not knowing much about longboards, it seems like that's "normal", but in the future I might look at additional layers, especially since I weigh about 50 % more than my son :D

Modern End Table with Acid Etched Steel Top

noreply@blogger.com (Scott) — Wed, 27 May 2020 06:25:00 +0000

So after making my Mid-Century Modern Steel and Wood Chairs, I decided that I needed an end table to go between them. I found a post from GirlJustDIY showcasing her DIY Modern End Table that had a very simple and elegant design that would match my newly-constructed chairs as well as share some traits with other furniture I have in the room, so it would help tie it all together.

Her plans are very simple and easy to follow, so I won't repeat them too much here, but what I did do is shorten it by 4" on all 3 axis (12" x 12" x 20" vs. 16" x 16" x 24") to better suit my space. I'd wanted to continue the steel and poplar wood theme of my chairs, so I decided to go with poplar legs and a steel top. I found a pre-cut 12" x 12" x .025" steel plate at the home improvement store that made my life a lot easier. (Since the steel plate is 1/4" thick, not 3/4" as her top was, place the upper cross 1/4 inches below the top, not 3/4.)

I cut the wood pieces on the miter saw. The cut list is as follows:

4 x 20"
2 x 12"
4 x 5.25"

Next, I cut pocket screw holes into all of the shorter pieces.

After that, you just screw the pieces together. I found that if I used the recommended 1.25" pocket hole screws, it would start to punch out in the back, so I dropped down to 1". (I could have raised the height of the stop on the drill bit so they wouldn't punch so deeply, but I had already pre-cut all of them when I noticed that.) I assembled mine in a slightly different order and it seemed to work out just fine. (I built a rectangle out of two sides and the two longer "cross" pieced, then held it in place with a large weight and was able to get at it pretty well to screw in the pocket hole screws.)

Here's the finished base with the plate resting on top:

I was torn about how I wanted to finish the top. The chairs were ground almost to a polish and then clear coated with several light coats of spray enamel. Now that I've spent a fair bit of time in those chairs, some of my favorite details are the little imperfections where I missed removing some mill scale or there's a discoloration due to the heat from welding, etc. so I decided that I wanted to have the surface of the plate be pretty heavily darkened from the get go. I had heard of a process to darken steel and quickly establishing a patina by applying acids (vinegar) to the surface, so I figured I'd give that a go.

I started by radiusing the corners and edges of the plate with a grinder do avoid pokes or cuts. Then I used a paint-removing flapper on my 4.5" angle grinder to remove the mill scale on the top surface of the plate. I wiped the entire thing down several times with mineral spirits to prep it for paint. I had some old spray paint left over from another project, so I used that to paint the "bottom" side of the plate to keep it from rusting. I wanted a lot of variation in color and to have some interesting details on the surface, so I applied a decal I had laying around to the center of the plate to effectively mask off that area and keep it polished.

Next, I took good old yellow mustard (contains vinegar) and laid out a few stripes on the plate and then widened some of them our with a paint brush.

Once that had been sitting for 8 minutes or so, I placed several random shapes on the surface of the steel and proceeded to spray the entire thing down with vinegar. (I happened to already have balsamic vinegar in s spray bottle for salads, so I gave that a try vs. the more commonly used white or apple cider vinegars.)

Then, after about another 10 minutes, when the plate had darkened considerably, I wiped off all of the vinegar and mustard with damp rags to stop the reaction. Here's the newly etched plate with the sticker removed:

I added about 4-5 light coats of clear spray enamel and here is the finished result:

I'm really happy about how it turned out! I might stain the base a slightly darker shade (currently just has a Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) finish) but that would be about it. I already had the paint, screws, etc, so this project only cost me about $20 in materials!

Mid-Century Modern Steel and Wood Sling Chairs

noreply@blogger.com (Scott) — Fri, 22 May 2020 03:08:00 +0000

So now that we're all stuck at home for a little bit, I'd wanted to start taking advantage of my front porch a lot more so that I could sit and read, sip cool beverages and wave from an acceptable social distance to my neighbors that are now spending a lot more time walking or being out in their yards. I wanted a pair of cool chairs, but with most stores being shut down and the financial outlook being uncertain for a while, I didn't want to buy something expensive online, so I started scouring the interwebs for things that I could make myself and not break the bank.

My woodworking skills and tools are basically non-existent, but I dabble with welding and I love the look of steel furniture, so that's where my search began. After going down some deep Pinterest rabbit holes, I discovered this awesome old blog post from @pneumaticaddict about her wood and leather sling chair. (She has a ton of really cool DIY content! Go check her out!!)

I fell in love with the overall design of the chair and wanted to give it a go, but decided to make them out of 1.0" x 1.5" x 0.065" steel rectangular tubing and not wood so that I could dust off the welder and my very rusty welding skills. Her dimensions were a great start, but I needed to make a few tweaks to account for mitered corners in certain spots and slight difference in material thickness. Also, I lowered the bottom bars a touch for aesthetic reasons since my rear upright bars are curved at the bottom, not angled. Here's my cut list:

3 x 20" pieces for the front and real lower cross bars
1 x 23" piece with corners cut at 45 degrees for top cross bar
2 x 33" pieces for rear uprights with 45 degree cuts on top to match cross bar, 30 degree bend 4" from bottom.
2 x 24" pieces for front uprights with 45 degree cuts facing rearward at top where it meets arm rest
2 x 21" pieces with a slight curve notched into one end to match rear bar (cut a little long and trim to fit.)
2 x 30" pieces for arm rests. 45 degree cut in front to match uprights and 30 degree cut on the back to align with the rear upright (cut a little long and trim to fit.)

Notes:

Plan ahead so that tubing seams face downward or to the back of the chair.
Build rear legs at the same time to make sure they have the exact same curve and length
Build front of chair and then back of chair as assemblies and then custom fit the arm rests and rear lower bars to your chair since the angles might vary slightly from mine and could impact length of the tubes
Remove mill scale before assembly as you cannot reach some of the corners with an angle grinder once assembled.

I started with the rear. I cut the uprights to 33" and then marked each one at 4", 4.5" and 5" and made cuts there with my 14" abrasive chop saw, only cutting one face and the two sides, leaving one side of the tube intact. This let me simply bend the tube, then I could weld it back up with the exact 30 degree radiused bend I was looking for. This worked out great, but if you're making the cuts with something other than an abrasive chop saw, you may need more or fewer cuts to achieve the correct bend. (I was making two chairs at once, that's why you may see more parts than needed for one in some pics.) Then, I cut the tops at 45 degree angles to match the top piece and then squared it up and welded it with one of the 20" cross bars placed 5" from the bottom (basically as low as I could get it once the curve had straightened out.)

Prior to building the front assembly, I wanted to fit the rear lower bars. I stood the rear frame upright on its side, positioned the rear tube where I wanted it in relative vertical position, marked it and then I traced the curve of the rear tube onto a piece of stiff paper (yes, that is a Magic the Gathering card :p) cut out the shape and used that to mark where I was going to trim all of the tube ends so that they were all identical. Worked great!

Next, I made the front piece by welding two 20" cross bars into the 24" uprights. I made the lower bars 3-3/4" off the ground because going 4" as speced in the original plan just looked a little "funny" with my rear curve. The upper of the two bars is positioned so that the top of it is 15" off of the ground.

Once I had the two assemblies, I loosely tacked in the lower rear bars.

I cut the arm rest bars to 30-3/8" as specified in the @pneumaticaddict's plans, but they were a bit long as my dimensions ended up being slightly different since I handled the rear bend differently. I mitered the front end of the arm rest tubes to 45 degrees and then held them up with a level on rested on top and used a marker to trace the exact rear angle cut. I did that by making teeny cuts on the grinder and checking fit each time. Took a while, but ended up with a great fit. Once cut to size, I put a single tack weld on the front and rear of the arm rest to hold it in place.

Then, using a couple of ratchet straps and a square, made sure it was all level and square before welding it together. I sort of went around from joint to joint adding a tack or two and then moving on to not build up heat and end up pulling it out of level/square. Once it was pretty solid, I welded all of the seams and then ground the welds flush with a flapper disk.

I finished the chairs by grinding off all of the mill scale, wiping them down three times each with mineral spirits and then spraying them with several light coats of glossy clear enamel. I ground one down with an 80 grit flapper wheel on my angle grinder. It took a while and really took a bite out of the chair, leaving quite a noticeable pattern and texture. The other chair I cleaned off with one of the "paint remover" abrasive stripper disks. (It actually took 2 disks to finish!) It was much faster and didn't leave the scratches and seemed to "polish" it more. To be honest, I think I prefer the flapper disk finish, and it really didn't seem to consume much of the disk. That's it for the frame part of the chair.

For the straps and slats, I followed @pneumaticaddict's instructions. I used 1/8" x 5/8" inch aluminum rivets like she had, but found some "big head" or "large flange" ones so that I wouldn't have to have a washer on the front and used a 1/8 x .375 x .048 washer on the rear. Rather than attach the belts to the chair with carriage bolts, I used M5-.8 x 40mm button head socket cap stainless screws with lock nuts on the back. I made the first chair with 17 slats as she had, but found it a little too low/droopy, so I took one out to have 16 and it seems much better for the dimensions of my chairs. In the pic below, the rear chair has 16, the front has 17. I've since removed one and shortened the straps so they are both at 16. I decided to lightly sand the .25" x 1.5" x 19" poplar slats to prevent splinters and gave them a couple of coats of boiled linseed oil (BLO) to help protect the wood a bit. (NOTE: be sure to follow all safety instructions on using BLO and clean and dispose of your rags appropriately!)

That's it! Overall, I'm super happy with them. As far as cost, ordering steel online and shipping it isn't cheap and I did use a lot of consumables. If you factor in hardware, paint, etc., it's probably about $200-$250 in materials per chair. Compared to what they would cost to purchase, that's super cheap though. They were also really labor intensive and ended up being a lot more work than expected. Most of that can be chalked up to trying to get the cuts accurate and me blowing lots of holes in the thin-walled tubing with my welder and having to fill them and grind them back down, etc. 2nd chair was much faster than the first as my cuts and welds were much improved. They are super comfy and I like them so much that I'm a little afraid to leave them out on my front porch now! :p If I were to do it again, I think I'd invest in a better saw. The abrasive disk chop saw would wander a lot on any cut not 90 degrees and I just suck using an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel :p. Also, I'd spend a little more money for higher quality belts to use as straps. The ones I got were "leather", but that meant that they were two super thin strips of leather (like paper thin) sandwiched around some mystery fibers. The seem plenty strong now, but I'm a bit worried about their longevity.

95 Cobra R wheel specs

noreply@blogger.com (Scott) — Tue, 18 Feb 2020 21:23:00 +0000

Specs for 95 Cobra Wheels. The correct part #s are M-1007-M179 in the rear and M-1007-R58 in the front. These are the proper sizes for running SN-95 length axles in a fox body.

Here are the R58 specs:

Backspacing (in):5.980 in.

Offset:+24.00mm

Lug Nut Seat Style:Conical seat - 60 degree

Center Bore Diameter (in):2.780 in.

Here are the M179 specs:

Backspacing (in):6.420 in.

Offset:+36.00mm

noreply@blogger.com (Scott) — Fri, 05 Apr 2019 03:44:00 +0000

1986 SSP Mustang

noreply@blogger.com (Scott) — Fri, 02 Nov 2018 18:52:00 +0000

86 SSP mustang

noreply@blogger.com (Scott) — Wed, 31 Oct 2018 22:14:00 +0000

So, late last Spring, I picked up an 86 ex TX DPS SSP mustang. The guy that bought it from auction turned it into a Fun Ford Weekend bracket racer and won the Quick Ford class numerous times as well as a ton of runner-ups! It's been sitting for a good while and a friend of mine that is a rare fox body connoisseur picked it up to restore. His plans changed, so I was able to purchase it from him. The original purchaser provided a lot of information about the buildup as well as a lot of receipts and I'm posting it here to keep track. :D

C4 transmission, 4000 stall hughes convertor.
4.10 gears
adjustable drag shocks/struts
Mass air conversion with A9P computer

engine:
AFR 165s
Edelbrock Performer EFI intake (Ported)
Pro M 75MM Mass air
24lb injectors
65mm throttle body
BBK 1-5/8 headers
TRW L-2482f pistons (forged with coated skirts)
Cam: Hydraulic roller. 219/224 duration, .533/.547 lift with 108 degree lobe separation
Crane 1.6 Roller Rockers
Hardened pushrods

The 1983 Mustang Gt is alive!

noreply@blogger.com (Scott) — Wed, 06 Jun 2018 04:08:00 +0000

It's alive! Finally got the wiring and brakes all sorted out. Runs like a champ! I put a couple hundred miles on it the first week

5.0 Mustang belt routing

noreply@blogger.com (Scott) — Sun, 03 Sep 2017 18:04:00 +0000

Found this on the web ages ago, not mine, but thought it might be useful for someone else.

92 LX 5.0 - build sheet

noreply@blogger.com (Scott) — Sun, 03 Sep 2017 17:53:00 +0000

1992 Mustang LX Coupe, White with titanium cloth interior. Always garaged. Loaded with options, except for rear defroster and power seats.

Loved this car, sold in '08 or so.

Engine

Original 5.0L V8 engine.
Powerdyne 6# supercharger
Mac 1-5/8" long tube headers
Mac H-pipe w/ Hi-Flow cats
Magnaflow stainless mufflers
Dynomax stainless pipes
Motorsport wires
Mark VIII fan/radiator
130 amp 3G alternator with 150 amp marine grade fuse and heavy gauge wiring
190lph Walbro fuel pump
157k miles

Drivetrain

T-5
Motorsport 3.73 gears
Rebuilt Trac-lok
Brand new clutch cable with new adjustable quadrant
Pro-5.0 shifter with Cobra leather shift knob

Brakes/Wheels

4 wheel disc, 5 lug conversion
'96-'97 Cobra wheels
17x8 front w/brand new 245/45 Sumitomo HTR ZII's (500 miles)
17x9 rear (widened by The Wheel Shoppe) w/275/40 Kumhos (New Nitto DRs going on soon)
'94-'95 spindles
'94-'95 master cylinder
'99+ GT dual piston PBR brakes (calipers/brackets/rotors/hoses/pads)
M-2300-K brake booster
'94-'98 GT rear brakes (pads/axles/new rotors)
Correct e-brake retrofit cables and modified e-brake assembly
Ford HD brake fluid

Suspension
Front

MM coilovers w/400# springs
'00 Cobra R Bilsteins
Steeda X2 balljoints
Poly LCA and sway bar endlink bushings
MM caster/camber plates
Steeda aluminum steering rack bushings
Flaming River steering shaft
Fresh tie rods

Rear

Adjustable ride height lower control arms with poly in one end, rod ends in the other
Bilsteins
Fresh stock UCAs

Miscellaneous

Jeff B's Matrix brace subframes
CD/MP3 player
NR Auto white face gauges
Autometer Phantom mechanical oil pressure and water temp gauges in a-pillar
Corbeau Carrera seats
Custom mounted '86-'88 Ford Ranger spoiler for increase cooling and aesthetics
2" fiberglass HO Fibertrends cowl hood
'93 Cobra grill insert
New headlights/front markers
All "5.0" and "LX" badges removed
Semi-synthetics throughout
New window and door moulding

It'll get worse before it gets better

noreply@blogger.com (Scott) — Sun, 03 Sep 2017 03:36:00 +0000

Holley 4180c Upgrades

noreply@blogger.com (Scott) — Wed, 04 Jan 2017 03:35:00 +0000

Hey gang, the 83 project is finally making noise again! I got the suspension all back in, alignment set, new brakes in and bled, and the Holley 4180c carburetor rebuilt to get it running again after its 6-7 year hibernation. The carb runs beautifully now and I'd wanted to share my parts list in case anyone is looking for information in the future on what to do with these things:

Carb rebuild kit: Holley 3-1346 Carburetor Renew Kit

Holley Secondary Metering Block Conversion Kit 34-6 Holley 34-6 Metering Block

30CC Accelerator pump diaphragm: Holley 135-5 Rubber Accelerator Pump Diaphragm

Accelerator pump squirter: Holley 121-131 Straight Accelerator Pump Discharge Nozzle

Nitrophyl floats (x2) Holley 116-1 Nitrophyl Side Hung Float

Holley Viton Inlet Needle .110 (x2) Holley 6-504 Viton Inlet Needle

Holley Jet (primary) Holley 122-63 .062" Carburetor Standard Main Jet - Pack of 2

Holley Jet (secondary) Holley 122-72 Standard Main Jet - Pair

Single stage power valve: Holley 125-105 Single-Stage Standard Flow Power Valve
Many thanks to the guys hanging out over on http://www.foureyedpride.com. That's where I gathered the information to put this parts list together.

tim henderson

noreply@blogger.com (Scott) — Fri, 30 Sep 2016 20:15:00 +0000

So, a little O/T, but I just created a new site for my dad Tim Henderson and his Texas folk music. Tim Henderson was an amazing Texas folk singer/songwriter, and we put together a legacy collection box set to celebrate his life and music. Go check it out!

How to drive a Model T

noreply@blogger.com (Scott) — Thu, 19 Nov 2015 23:32:00 +0000

I've always wondered what those pedals did :D https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QxfHMtgg2d8&feature=youtu.be&list=PL7bCv2WuVwPRrPefJdEPp43B-lTVOFCYj

Steampunk rod

noreply@blogger.com (Scott) — Wed, 18 Nov 2015 15:53:00 +0000

Cool little hot rod! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JAGzxOO0J70

Cobb resets EcoBoost Record

noreply@blogger.com (Scott) — Tue, 17 Nov 2015 19:31:00 +0000

http://www.cobbtuning.com/new-ecoboost-mustang-quarter-mile-record/

https://youtu.be/4xqstssdaLM

Coyote swap

noreply@blogger.com (Scott) — Sun, 15 Nov 2015 22:38:00 +0000

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RyLVgbN0z_s

Muscle Mustangs and Fast Fords Article

4-link tuning

noreply@blogger.com (Scott) — Tue, 10 Nov 2015 15:18:00 +0000

4 link tuning

Great article on setting up a 4-link: http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/tuning-4-link.html

the "new" project

noreply@blogger.com (Scott) — Thu, 06 Nov 2014 23:42:00 +0000

Posting here in hopes that it motivates me to get it back on the road. :p I bought it in 09, drove it as-is for a couple of years, and then it got stuck on jack stands for a while for some suspension and brake upgrades. I'm fired up about having it make noise again.

That Grey 86

noreply@blogger.com (Scott) — Tue, 20 Apr 2010 02:09:00 +0000

There was a grey 86 that was in a few magazines and all over the internet about 7-8 years ago. It was awesome. A thread on another board was talking about it the other day and most of the online pictures of it had gone away. I had saved off the ebay ad from when it was for sale, so to keep such an awesome car from being forgotten, I'm reposting what I have here.

Mustang spring rates

noreply@blogger.com (Scott) — Tue, 16 Mar 2010 18:59:00 +0000

Here's a great site that lists spring rates for popular mustang springs:

http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/springs_calcs.htm

Activated charcoal (activated carbon)

noreply@blogger.com (Scott) — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 17:24:00 +0000

Ok guys, just wanted to post put my results here.

My 83 has a combo of just old car smell, and gas (from a seeping carb that will be rebuilt soon.) It isn't horrible, but it's enough that once I get to work (25 min drive) I can smell it on my clothes and stuff, so I figured I'd start trying to do something about it. I started reading a lot online and came across some folks raving about activated charcoal (activated carbon.) I looked around, and the local parts store sells small air fresheners with the stuff for around 5 bux. I'm usually not a total tightwad, but that seemed like a lot to me for this teeny amount of charcoal in a fancy package, so I started looking around for cheaper places. Anyway, Pet's Mart (or any aquarium store) sells the stuff for use in aquariums, and for $3, you can get a 3-pack of mesh baggies full of the stuff (easily 6x the volume as the auto-parts store one, for less $.) At Pets mart, they had a lot of choices, but the one I got was the Fluval brand. You can actually get it a lot cheaper if you buy in larger volumes and bag it yourself in something permeable. (I did it this way, because it was already in nice mesh baggies.)

So I picked up a box and threw all of the baggies in my car on Friday night. On Sunday, I opened the door and took a big whiff... (usually, the smell was pretty strong at that point after being closed up) Nada!!! The smell was GONE! I drove around for a 1/2 hour or so, and you could catch whiffs of it occasionally, and it smelled a bit afterwards (must be in the cushions/carpet a bit and got stirred up) but again, this morning it smelled great!

So anyway, that stuff does an awesome job of dealing with odor! Now I just need to freshen up the carb to cut down the smell from the seeping gaskets, seeping valve covers and check the exhaust for leaks... then do a thorough cleaning of the carpet and seats to gt it out and it should be good!

Posting the 79

noreply@blogger.com (Scott) — Tue, 07 Jul 2009 04:47:00 +0000

Edit: Well, I sold it. It went to a nice home in Houston.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?p=827948#post827948

http://centraltexasstangs.com/boards/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=91383#Post91383

http://www.austinareastangs.com/forums/showthread.php?p=257750#post257750