Hot Springs in Tuscany

Piscine Termali Theia - November 30, 2013

2013-12-03T04:21:00.000-08:00

Piscine Termali Theia
Chianciano Terme

Chianciano Terme is a spa town in southern Tuscany which, like all hot spring areas in Italy, was well known to the Etruscans and Romans in their times. During the 20th century, it became a popular place to "drink the waters" for their health benefits. This was the kind of spa town that could be seen in Federico Fellini's 1963 movie "8 1/2", with people milling around the "Parco Acqua Santa" ("Holy Water Park") with its spring-fed fountains. The advertisement for one of the bottled waters, "fegato sano" ("healthy liver"), became a common catchphrase, sometimes jokingly, but often in all seriousness. That brand of water still has "fegato sano" written on its label.

The Spring in the Parco Acqua Santa

The town of Chianciano Terme had a building boom in the 1970s of large hotels and apartment complexes, all with the typical and not so attractive architectural style of those years. Then building seemed to stop, and the town got "stuck" in that era. Add to that the current economic crisis, and you have a 1970s town which is not being maintained - not a very attractive concept.

Fast forward to August 2013 - Chianciano Terme realizes that people are more interested in soaking in hot spring waters than drinking them, and a new swimming pool is inaugurated using waters from the Sillene hot spring. A fabulous idea - and they did an amazing job, building a gorgeous complex of indoor and outdoor pools of various temperatures with jets, waterfalls, and currents. I can truly say that I now have a new favorite hot spring swimming pool in Tuscany.

To get to Chianciano Terme, take the A1 tollway, exiting at Chiusi-Chianciano. Follow the indications for Chianciano Terme. When there, you will see indications for the "Piscine Termali Theia". There is parking free-of-charge just past the entrance to the pool.

Entrance to the Pool

When you pay your entrance fee you are given an electronic bracelet which you use to enter the complex, and to activate the lockers in the dressing rooms. You then go up two flights of stairs (there is also an elevator) to the level of the pools. There you enter into a large greenhouse structure with three pools, lots of lounge chairs, and a cafè. You will be struck by a strong smell of sulfur (rotten eggs) as this is one of the elements of the water in this area.

Indoor Pools

From the indoor pools you can swim outdoors to pools on both sides of the greenhouse structure. On one side there is a very large pool, with an intricate layout of areas with jets, waterfalls, and currents.

Large Outdoor Pool

On the other side there is a smaller pool, but with the highest temperature water.

Small Outdoor Pool

The pool bottoms are all paved with smooth stones, which are pleasant on the feet. These stones are also present on shelves around the sides of the pools, and silt accumulates in the spaces between the stones. This silt can be spread on your skin for a mask, and is definitely soothing. Afterwards your skin will feel very smooth. The temperature varies from 33°C/91°F to 37°C/98°F in the different areas of the pools. The water has a sparkling blue-green color, a slightly metallic taste, and a strong sulfur smell. It is rich in carbon dioxide, calcium carbonate, bicarbonate, and sulfates.

The Theia hot spring pool is a great addition to the town of Chianciano, and I know I will be back!

While you're in Chianciano, remember to visit the old town with its charming shops and beautiful views over the Val di Chiana!

Piscine Termali Theia
Piazza Marconi
53042 Chianciano Terme
Tel: 848800243

Bagno Vignoni - October 16, 2013

2013-10-21T10:31:00.000-07:00

Piscina Val di Sole at Hotel Posta Marcucci

The ancient town of Bagno Vignoni (the name itself includes the word "bagno" which means "bath") centers around a square which in truth is a vast pool of hot spring water, testifying to the centrality of thermal waters to this town. You can see the hot water bubbling up to the surface of the pool like an enormous witch's cauldron. There is something primeval about it - I always expect to see dinosaurs wander by, or some otherworldly apparition, and am a bit disappointed when it doesn't happen...

The hot spring pool in the middle of town

New evidence of the ancient use of the hot springs continues to come to light, as shown in this photo of the old mill pond. I had hoped it was some kind of Neandertal bathtub, but, alas, they say it is just where the water from the mill went after use.

The old mill pond

There are streams of hot water that flow through the mill pond area, and visitors who come to the town, but do not go to the swimming pool (forgot their swimsuits?), may be found soaking their feet in the healing waters.

If you are interested in knowing more about the history of Bagno Vignoni, you can start by looking it up on the town's wikipedia page.

The pool at Hotel Posta Marcucci, Piscina Val di Sole, is the first hot spring pool I ever plunged into here in Tuscany about 30 years ago. Now there are a couple other hotels in town that have hot spring pools, but I decided to go back to the pool at Hotel Posta Marcucci, for old times' sake. Plus, to me it is The Iconic Tuscan Hot Spring Pool.

After paying your fee at the entrance on the left side of the hotel, you can use the changing rooms which are located on the far side of the pool, under a sun terrace. There are sun chairs availble on the pool deck and in the gardens. There is also a small snack bar.

The pool itself is very large, and divided into two parts. The hotter part is 35°-38°C / 95°-100°F. The water is dark green in color and has a strong metallic taste.

It is partially covered, giving protection when it rains hard (as it did while I was there). The depth varies from about 3 feet to more than 5 feet, and it is very irregular. There are underwater benches along much of the edge of the pool where you can sit and soak up the warmth of the water, and the sun (when it's out). There are two waterfalls which emit very hot water into the pool. They are almost too hot to stand under, but people manage to anyway.

The hot pool wraps around two sides of the cooler pool, which is 28°-32°C / 82°-90°F. The water of the cooler pool is a lighter bluish color, and the smell and taste are less intense.
There is a thick mineral buildup on the walls of both pools.

I must confess that I love this hot spring pool. I love that in the 30 years I have been going there it hasn't been modernized or remodelled. I love the minerals that have been building up on the walls of the pools, creating sculpture-like formations that are rough where they are new, and smooth where they have been rubbed by thousands of hands over the years. I love that it is in a town with so much history, so attractively preserved, and still in the process of being discovered. Call me nostalgic, but I just love it.

It's easy to get to Bagno Vignoni from either Florence or Rome - just travel on the Via Cassia (SS2) driving south from Florence, north from Rome, and you'll eventually find Bagno Vignoni indicated on the west side of the road. Once in town, follow the signs to Hotel Posta Marcucci. Park in the city lot, pay for a ticket from the machine, and leave it on the dashboard inside your car. It's very easy, and not too expensive, so don't "forget" to get your ticket, because fines are steep.

The thermal waters have a temperature of 49°C and reach the pool via a waterfall which has a temperature of 43-45°C. The waters are classified as "bicarbonate-sulphate-alkaline hyperthermal", containing calcium carbonate, iron and zinc.

The town of Bagno Vignoni by night

Piscina Val di Sole
c/o Hotel Posta Marcucci
Bagno Vignoni
tel: 0577 887112

Terme di Saturnia - March 3, 2013

2013-03-03T14:30:00.000-08:00

Terme di Saturnia

Terme di Saturnia is, I think, the most famous, and most posh, hot spring pool in Tuscany. I have been there many times, but it had been several years since the last time I went, so it was good to go back and see what changes had been made.

Saturnia is in the municipality of Manciano, in the province of Grosseto. Getting there is quite a challenge as you must travel many kilometers over provincial roads. The countryside you will travel through is some of the most beautiful in the world; depending which way you choose to go, you may pass through Monte Amiata, Arcidosso, and Val d'Orcia, land alternating between grape vineyards, pastures, rolling hills of grain, steep mountains, and forests.

Terme di Saturnia is connected to a luxury hotel and resort. It used to be that the public could share the same pool with the hotel guests, and I must say there is something magic about that enormous pool. The bottom is made of pebbles, and the hot water comes up through the bottom at a deliciously hot temperature. It was really something.

Now there are two separate areas - the old pool is still connected to the hotel, for the use of its guests only, whereas a new pool complex has been built for daytime guests.

There is a new parking lot, and a monumental (horrible) entrance to the pools where you pay the entrance fee and go to the changing rooms, which have lockers with keys provided. From there you go to the pools, starting with an indoor/outdoor octagonal pool, from which you go outside to an amazing complex of connecting pools of different depths on various levels, with a myriad of jets, waterfalls, whirlpools, and currents. There are quite shallow areas, perfect for small children, and also an area that is more than 6 feet deep. This is well marked, and only bathers who profess that they are good swimmers may enter the area. The pool is very child-friendly. The temperature of the water varies from area to area, but it is always pleasantly warm. A smell of rotten eggs pervades the entire valley.

The water comes from the spring at a temperature of 37.5°C / 99.5°F and contains sulfur, carbon, sulfate, bicarbonate-alkaline, and earth. The sulfur gives it a strong rotten egg smell. The water is cloudy white. There is a silty residue on the bottom, and mineral build up on the sides of the pool.

Terme di Saturnia
58014 Saturnia (Grosseto)
Phone +39 0564-600111

If you want to enjoy the hot water without paying a fee, you can always go to the waterfall...

One legend, according to the Etruscans and Romans, was that the Terme di Saturnia were formed by lightning bolts, thrown by Jupiter. During a violent quarrel between the two mythological deities, the bolts thrown towards Saturn had missed, causing the formations.

Terme di Sorano - December 16, 2012

2012-12-17T14:37:00.003-08:00

Terme di Sorano

Yesterday I went to the Terme di Sorano. What an adventure! This place is really on the backroads of Tuscany. I won't even try to give instructions on how to get there - I would just get you lost. There are instructions on the website under location. It's quite a challenge to drive there on the rough "Strade Provinciali" roads, winding through the hills of "tuff" stone ("tufo" in Italian). To add to the confusion, cell phone reception isn't good in the area, so my iPhone map wasn't working very well.

I thought I was totally lost when I suddenly saw a large sign indicating the Terme di Sorano with a spacious parking area - signs of civilization. The pool is part of a large vacation residence with apartments and villas inside an attractive gated park. There is a reception area near the parking lot where you pay the pool entrance fee. You then enter the residence through a gate and follow a footpath several hundred yards to the pool.

The pool seen from the footpath.

You give your ticket to the lifeguard who explains to you where the dressing rooms, lockers (included in entrance fee with a lock), and showers are. If you go in the winter like I did, you enter the pool through a covered walkway so you don't have to feel the cold. The water in the pool is warm, not hot. The pool is on two levels, with waterfalls feeding the lower pools. The waterfalls provide a nice massage, but the water is cooler than in the upper pool, and not quite warm enough to be pleasant during the winter. There are no other jets in the pool. The flow of water entering (and exiting) the pool is very strong. This gives the sense of the whole pool area being very clean and fresh.

This is a new swimming pool, built just 6 years ago, in 2006. Apparently there were hot spring waters in the area historically, but for more than 50 years they had dried up. Then, one day, the family dog (an Irish Setter) was digging a hole in the woods, and low and behold, hot water came out of the ground. The owner then decided to develop the hot spring pool and surrounding vacation rental apartments.

The stream that carries the water from the spring to the pool.

An ancient church on the property.

All of my Tuscan friends knew of Sorano, but not one knew of the hot spring pool. I think this is because the new spring was found so recently.

Soaking in this pool is a lovely experience, and I highly recommend it. You'll probably want to stay there overnight, or somewhere nearby, as the drive to get there is rather exhausting. One thing that confused me about their website: it doesn't state whether the pool is reserved for the guests of the residence only, so I called in advance, and found out that day use is possible.

The water contains calcium, magnesium, and bicarbonate, and emerges from the springs at a temperature of 37C / 99°F. The water is clear with a green hue, and has no particular smell or taste. There is a rust color buildup on the sides of the pool which makes me think there must be some iron in the water.

Terme di Sorano
Località S.Maria dell'Aquila
58010 - Sorano (GR)
Tel. (+39) 0564 633306

Calidario Terme Etrusche - September 23, 2012

2012-10-01T03:03:00.000-07:00

Calidario Terme Etrusche

On Sunday I went to the hot springs swimming pool Calidario Terme Etrusche in Venturina, Province of Livorno. I have been to this pool many times in the past, but the last time was in 2008, so it was time to pay a visit. The owners of this property tend to make occasional changes and "improvements", so I couldn't write this blog according to my past experiences.

To get to Calidario from Florence, take the FI-PI-LI superstrada (free of charge) almost all the way to Livorno, turn onto the A12 tollway towards Rosignano, exit at Rosignano, take the Aurelia SS1 south, exit at Venturina, then follow the signs to Calidario Sorgente. There is a large public parking lot near the entrance.

At the entrance you pay the fee and are directed to the dressing rooms. Lockers with locks incorporated, towels, and sun loungers cost extra. The lockers are in a common room for men and women, with separate changing rooms and showers in other areas. You can enter the pool from an indoor entrance, or go directly outside to the pool deck.

Calidario is a strange mix between a lake and a pool. It is very large, with shallow areas around the sides, and a deeper area in the middle, marked off with lanelines. The bottom of the pool is covered with rounded pebbles. Because of this, a sort of muddy sediment is kicked up by bathers, and the water is cloudy. It seems more like an organic sediment than a mineral one.

The water is warm, not hot, and varies day by day. The day we were there it was 33°C, 91°F. It enters the pool through two streams where one person at a time can sit to enjoy the small waterfall. Water also enters the pool through springs in the bottom, and you can feel the warmer water as you move around the pool.

Lovely maidenhair ferns grow along the side of the pool, and there is a prolific water snail population as well. Doesn't bother me at all - they are tiny, and you really have to look for them, as they blend in. I must say that this pool has such a lake feeling to it, I am surprised there aren't fish in it! But, no worries, I wore goggles and swam all around the pool, and didn't see anything swimming, except for other humans.

I quite like Calidario, but it doesn't really fall into my thermal bath/hot spring definition. It's not hot enough, and it's not minerally enough. It's lovely to float in the warm water, but I don't get that feeling of regeneration that I do in pools thick with salts and sulfur. The water leaves you with a sort of slimy feeling rather than that nice scrubbed feeling after a mineral bath. The chemical characteristics of the water are listed on their website as: sulfate, chlorine, calcium, and magnesium. I read on wikipedia that the water from the springs also contains "dirt" which I think is what I feel.

I would suggest Calidario for warm days, not cold. The water isn't warm enough for cold days. Also, weekdays when there are less people would be better, as they do kick up the pepples on the bottom, causing the sediment to make the water cloudy.

If you are there on a warm, sunny day, you may prefer to take a dip in the sea at the nearby beach of San Vincenzo. It's free of charge ("spiaggia libera"), unless you decide to rent an "umbrella" and beach chairs from the concession.

Calidario Terme Etrusche
Via del Bottaccio, 40
57021 Venturina (LI) - Toscana

Terme di Petriolo - April 22, 2012

2012-04-22T12:57:00.000-07:00

Terme di Petriolo

Today I went to the hot spring pools at Terme di Petriolo. Now, I hope that when you go there, you will have read my blog first so that you can avoid going to the Petriolo Spa Resort hotel like I did. They were not nice at the hotel, and acted like they had never heard of the hot spring pool before, even though it is just a couple of miles away.

To get to the Terme di Petriolo from Florence, you take the "Firenze - Siena" tollfree highway (SR2) south. When you get to Siena, continue on the highway for Grosseto (SS233). After about 23 kilometers you will see signs for Terme di Petriolo on the left side. Take this small country road for about 5 kilometers, following the signs, until you get to the hot spring pools. The entrance looks like this:

When you walk into the reception area you will be hit by the lovely smell of rotten eggs. If it smells that bad, it must be good for you, right? At the reception you can borrow a lock for a locker room if you need one, and rent other items like a bathrobe or slippers. The changing rooms are rather small, but well equipped with lockers, showers and hairdryers.

There are four different pools distributed indoors and outdoors on 2 different levels of the structure. The two outdoor pools, one larger and one smaller, are very hot. I don't know the temperature, but you will feel uncomfortable after about 15 minutes and have to take a break to cool off. Luckily there are plenty of lounge chairs around the pools to relax on.

Indoors there is a very hot pool, in a warm area with lounge chairs. This would be great even in the middle of winter.

There is also a small cold water pool - this was popular with the children.

The whole structure is built on a hill, facing south, with outdoor terraces and indoor spaces in windows for enjoying the sun. There is a snack bar where you can get something to eat or drink while still in your suit.

All of the pools have a strong rotten egg smell. The water is cloudy with minerals, and there is a lot of mineral buildup on the sides of the pool. The water is 43°C / 109.4°F at the source. It contains hydrogen sulfide, carbon dioxide, calcium, flourine, chloride, sulfate and bicarbonate.

Terme di Petriolo

Loc. Petriolo - 53015 Monticiano - Si

tel 0577.757104 fax 0577.757092

info@termepetriolo.it

San Casciano dei Bagni - March 25, 2012

2012-03-26T08:31:00.001-07:00

San Casciano dei Bagni - Fonteverde Spa

Yesterday I went to the Fonteverde hot springs pool in the town of San Casciano dei Bagni, Province of Siena.

I do believe that this is my favorite pool of those I have visited so far on my tour of hot springs pools in Tuscany!

To get to San Casciano dei Bagni from Florence, you take the A1 tollway heading south (in the direction of Rome) and exit at Chianciano Terme / Chiusi. Follow the signs for Sarteano, then San Casciano dei Bagni. Once you arrive in the town of San Caciano dei Bagni you will find indications for Fonteverde Spa.

You might want to stop in town and take in the views over the Tuscan countryside:

or the enchanting town itself:

San Casciano dei Bagni

At the pool, you pay the entrance fee at the reception, where you receive a terry cloth robe. You can also rent slippers and a towel at a reasonable price. You can use the indoor lounge chairs free of charge, but if you want an outdoor sun chair you will need to pay a fee. Now you head to the changing rooms. You will need a one euro coin to use the lockers. From there you go to the pools which you can enter either from an indoor pool, going through a tunnel to go outdoors in cold weather, or directly outdoors from the pool deck. You can leave your robe on hooks on the wall, or on your lounge chair.

The wonderful thing about this pool is the warmth of the water - I think it is the warmest I have been to so far! The water is 42° celcius / 107° fahrenheit at the source. I don't know the exact temperature of the water in the pool, but I assure you it is very warm! It enters the pool through several inlets on the bottom of the pool, and these spots are particularly warm. There is also a (manmade) waterfall where very warm water falls, providing a wonderful massage. It's fun to try every possible position!

There are also four gooseneck jets which feel great on the back and shoulders.

The water is chalk full of minerals, including sulfate, calcium, flourine, and magnesium. It is green in color, and there is mineral build up on the sides of the pool, and on the surrounding pool deck. You can almost feel it doing you good as you soak in it, and as you move around, it gives you a good scrub. There is no particular smell or taste to the water.

There is a snack bar by the pool where you can eat something wearing your robe over your suit. The food isn't very exciting, but at least you don't have to get dressed!

There is also a small pool for children. Don't take a sun chair near it if you don't want to get splashed by the kids!

Fonteverde Natural Spa Resort

Localita' terme 1
53040 San Casciano dei Bagni (SI)
Tel. +39 0578 57241

Terme Bagni di Casciana - March 2, 2012

2012-03-02T12:28:00.001-08:00

Terme Bagni di Casciana

Today I went to the hot spring pool in the town of Casciana Terme, in the province of Pisa. I went by myself, and that was just fine, except the I do better with a human navigator when I'm driving. I confess I got lost a couple of times both coming and going!

To get to Casciana Terme from Florence, you take the "Superstrada" (tollfree highway) called "FI PI LI". FI PI LI stands for "Florence Pisa Livorno", which are the major towns it serves. Exit the superstrada at Pontedera, and take the highway SS13 towards Ponsacco, which you pass through, continuing until you arrive in Casciana Terme. In town there are indications for the pool, and there is a free parking lot just before you arrive, on the right side.

As always, part of the fun of trying new hot spring pools is exploring the Tuscan countryside. When you leave the FI PI LI, you drive through a land where agriculture reigns over industry, and grapevines and olive groves, solar panels and wind farms, replace parking lots and shopping centers.

The entrance to the hot spring pool is a modern building. To get to the pool, you have to walk through a clinic area, and the directions are indicated by signs saying "Piscina Esterna" (Outdoor Pool) and an arrow. You finally arrive to an desk where you pay your fee. You will be given a key for a locker with an elastic band so you can wear it on your wrist while in the pool; you must leave a document as a deposit for the key. The dressing rooms are very comfortable, with lockers, benches, bathrooms and showers. You enter the pool from indoors to avoid the cold, leaving your robe and flipflops in the hallway.

The pool is large and quite shallow, about 3 deep feet all over. There are all kinds of jets and water falls, and even an area with a strong current. I particularly enjoyed a waterfall which was perfect for shoulders and back.

The temperature is a warm 33°C/91°F, but not hot. The water has a green minerally hue to it. There is no strong smell or taste.

There is a small garden and terraces, which would be enjoyable in good weather - I was there in the winter, and it was better to stay in the water! I think it would be fun for a family outing, as kids would love the pool and garden.

The waters are rich in salts and carbon dioxide, and are 35.7°C/95°F at the source. They do not add chlorine to this pool.

On the way home, you can enjoy some more Tuscan countryside:

BAGNI DI CASCIANA S.r.l.
Piazza Garibaldi, 9
56034 Casciana Terme (PI)
Tel. +39 0587 64461 +39 0587 64461
Fax +39 0587 644629

Hot Springs / Thermal Pools in Tuscany

2011-12-30T04:59:00.001-08:00

Hot Springs / Thermal Pools in Tuscany, a set on Flickr.

Monsummano Terme - December 27, 2011

2011-12-27T14:40:00.000-08:00

Monsummano Terme - Grotta Giusti Spa

My fourth trip to a hot spring swimming pool brings me to Monsummano Terme, where the establishment is called Grotta Giusti. My sister accompanied me again - funny how no one minds doing research with me! We were lucky - it was a gorgeous day for late December, and we bathed in the sun while we enjoyed the warm thermal waters. I think our little group of researchers may grow...

To get to Monsummano Terme from Florence, you take the A11 Autostrada (also known as the Firenze-Mare, or "Florence-Sea") and exit at Montecatini. As soon as you exit the tollway you will find indications for Monsummano Terme, and Grotta Giusti Spa.

While Grotta Giusti has been a thermal station for a many years, featuring a grotto famed for its healthful vapors, the swimming pool was opened just 7 years ago and is quite modern. From the well-maintained parking lot you arrive to the entrance where you pay the fee at the reception. When we went there was a special deal if you used the pool from 1pm-3pm only.

Pool Entrance

You are given a token to be used to access the dressing rooms, which are vast, and a ticket you will need to show to the lifeguard on the pool deck. To use the lockers you need a 1 euro coin. There are very nice showers and hair dryers in the dressing room.

From the dressing room you can enter the pool either through a tunnel where you can hang your bathrobe and leave your slippers, without going outside (if it's cold), or get directly onto the pool deck where you can leave your things on one of the many lounge chairs.

The pool is outdoors and very large. On one end there are 4 areas with whirlpools and jets. The rest is just the right depth for the average person to stand up comfortably. The jets run for about 10 minutes at a time, and then turn off for 10 minutes, during which time the bathers are supposed to leave the whirlpool area... therefore they all walk around the pool. As soon as the jets start up again, they return to that area. There are stone benches placed along the sides of the pool, nice to sit on and chat.

Whirlpools

The temperature of the water is 35°C/95°F. It is constantly fed by hot spring water containing bicarbonate, sulphur, calcium and magnesium. They do not add chlorine to the water as the flow is strong enough to avoid it. Being a fairly new pool, there is only a bit of mineral buildup on the sides of the pool - you can see the crystals forming. The water is clear, and doesn't have a particular smell or taste to it. It is wonderful for floating in!

Grotta Giusti Natural Spa Resort
Via Grottagiusti, 1411
51015 - Monsummano Terme
Tel. +39 0572 90771

Porretta Terme - December 17, 2011

2011-12-18T03:17:00.000-08:00

PORRETTA TERME

My third stop on this tour of the hot spring pools of Tuscany brings me to Porretta Terme. Porretta Terme is actually in the province of Bologna, which is part of the region of Emilia Romagna, but just by a few meters, so I'll include it in my list of hot spring pools in Tuscany.

Porretta Terme

Once again I find that hot spring pools differ greatly from one to another, and that is why I'm doing this tour, so that I can do the "inspection", describe the pool, and you can decide which is the best for you.
Porretta Terme is in the mountains between Tuscany and Emilia Romagna, and is easily reached on the SS64 highway from both Florence and Bologna. There is also a train station in town; it's a pleasant ten minute walk to the pool, along the Reno River.
The building where the thermal baths are located is a depressing 1970's structure, badly in need of some remodelling. It has obviously be given little care in the past few years. However, I understand that the property has changed hands, and some work is being done. For now, it looks like this:

Entrance to the spa

The Building

Inside the building is quite nice. At the reception you pay your entrance fee (14.50 euros the day we went) and then are told that you must have an interview with a doctor before you enter the pool. My my - that was a first! The doctor asks you if you have any medical problems, take any medication, and takes your blood pressure. A quick and pleasant visit, so I figure that with the entrance fee you get a free blood pressure measurement... not bad.

You then go back to the reception, get your ticket, and go downstairs to the pool area where you give the ticket to a lifeguard. He explains the pool layout to you and shows you to the changing rooms where there are lockers and showers.

The pool is indoors, a good size, with various depths. There are jets along one wall which are fantastic for massaging shoulders and back. There are lots of floatation devices around, and people like to float around, relaxing in the warm water. There are also vascular treatment pools where you walk first in warm water then in cold water on smooth river stones. In addition, there is a very nice Finnish sauna. There are deck chairs distributed on the deck for resting between baths.

The temperature of the water in the pool is a warm 36°C/96.8°F, and the room is kept at 31°C/87°F. The water contains salt, bromine, and iodine. The lifeguard told me that it is similar to sea water. They treat this pool with clorine.

This is a popular ski area, near the slopes of Corno alle Scale. I imagine that it would be super to soak yourself in this pool after a day on the slopes!

Terme di Porretta

Hotel delle Acque & Natural SPA
Via Roma 5
40046 Porretta Terme (BO)
Tel 0534/22062

Terme Bagni di Lucca - November 16, 2011

2011-11-19T04:13:00.000-08:00

Terme Bagni di Lucca

Well, this just goes to show that hot spring pools vary incredibly from one to another.

I got my sister to come along with me to Bagni di Lucca on a Wednesday morning in mid November. I told her along the way that I thought it was a smaller pool than the others, and she said that was ok, she was game for a drive in the countryside and a soak in hot water. I realized that she was right when we turned off the A11 tollway at Capannori (near Lucca) and drove into the hills along the Serchio River on the state highway SS12. It is a beautiful, steep valley with scenery like this:

Il Ponte della Maddelena, also known as the Ponte del Diavolo - the Devil's Bridge

And this:

The town of Bagni di Lucca

SS12 passes directly through the town of Bagni di Lucca on its way from Lucca to Modena. It takes about an hour and a half to drive there from Florence. You arrive in the town, low down in the valley, dark and a little oppressive, then cross a bridge, and enter a piazza where you must take a left turn which heads up the hill. The road is windy and narrow, and climbs out of the gloom and up the hillside. After about a mile you arrive in the upper part of the town where you can park either in the piazza, or in the parking lot of the hotel where the pool is located.

The piazza of the upper part of Bagni di Lucca, where the pool is located.

The pool is located inside the hotel Antico Albergo Terme, and you pay your ticket at the front desk. The dressing room is very small, with lockers and a shower. If you want to bring anything onto the pool deck, you'll have to walk back through the reception area of the hotel, so this is a good reason to have your bathrobe and flip flops with you. Otherwise you can leave everything in the dressing room, and enter the pool directly.

The pool itself is indoors and quite small. My sister and I had it all to ourselves for the hour we were there, which was nice. The water is 89.6° Fahrenheit; warm, not hot. There is one spot where the water enters the pool, and it is warmer there. The water is clear with no distinctive mineral odor. There is only a bit of mineral build up on the sides of the pool. There are sprays and jets for massage. There are windows on 2 sides, and decks with chairs on them outside.

The pool

All in all it was quite pleasant, but not as spectacular as the larger complexes. It didn't give me that "I'm coming back!" feeling, but who knows, I may just return someday, if I'm in the area and need a soak.

The streams of Bagni di Lucca are sulfuric-bicarbonate-calcium rich waters. The "Doccione" spring exits the ground at 129° Fahrenheit.

Bagni di Lucca

Terme Bagni di Lucca
Piazza San Martino, 11

55021 Bagni di Lucca - LU
Tel: +39 0583 87221

www.termebagnidilucca.it

San Giovanni Terme Rapolano (Siena) - October 30, 2011

2011-11-18T09:48:00.000-08:00

San Giovanni Terme Rapolano
This is where it all started... that is, my idea to visit all the hot springs in Tuscany and write a blog about them. My boyfriend and I went there on the spur of the moment on the Sunday of the All Saints holiday weekend. It was very crowded, but it was wonderful, and I kept saying to him, "I'm coming back!"

I had been to some other hot springs before: Bagno Vignoni, Calidario, and Saturnia, but I had never even heard of Rapolano Terme! Poor me... well, now I know, and I will certainly go back, but first I have to visit all the other hot springs in Tuscany!

The town of Rapolano Terme is on the state highway SS73, between Siena and Arezzo, and easily reached from both towns. It is about an hour and a half drive from Florence.

There are two thermal pools in the town, and so far I have only visited San Giovanni, but I will go to the Terme Antica Querciolaia sometime too.

San Giovanni is a very big complex. There are plenty of road indications and it is easy to find. There is a large dirt parking lot. At the entrance where you pay your ticket you can rent locks, towels and bathrobes. There are very large dressing rooms with lockers, restrooms and showers. On the same level there is a snack bar.

There are 3 different pools:

an indoor pool, which is the hottest. You can enter directly into this one without going outside, which would probably be nice on cold days! The source of the water is a waterfall which people stand under to massage shoulders. There is a tunnel to pass directly from this pool to the next one;
the first outdoor pool is quite large and is warmest near where the water comes out from the indoor pool. There is a white mineral sediment on the bottom which is pleasant to spread on the skin, however, it's quite a challenge to get to the bottom of the pool, given that the mineral-rich water makes you more bouyant than usual;
there are then waterfalls that go through 2 small pools. The water in the pools is progressively cooler. Again, people like to sit under the waterfalls to massage their shoulders;
the last pool is the largest and the coolest. Some people even swim in this pool. I think it would be very nice on a hot day, but a bit cold when the weather outside is cool. The water finally falls over a large waterfall into its streambed.

The swim decks and lawns are covered with deck chairs for sunbathing. There are also indoor rooms with lounge chairs for resting quietly after bathing in the waters.

There is a hotel connected to the complex which has its own hot spring pool.
The water is a milky white, it is so full of minerals. There is a chalky buildup on the walls of the pools. Swimcaps are not required, given the strong flow and therefore continuous exchange of water.

The waters flow from the spring at a temperature of 102° Fahrenheit. They are mainly composed of sulphur, and calcium bicarbonate. They definitely have that rotten egg smell!

San Giovanni Terme Rapolano

Via Terme San Giovanni, 52
53040 - Rapolano Terme (SI)
Tel. +39 - 0577.72 40 30
www.termesangiovanni.it

What Exactly is a Hot Spring?

2011-11-10T09:57:00.000-08:00

So, what is a hot spring?

I took a look on this Wikipedia page and found out that there is "no universally accepted definition of a hot spring."

OK! That's fine. We don't need to be universal.... we'll just use the term to describe what it is we're looking for here. So, back to Wikipedia:

"A hot spring is a spring that is produced by the emergence of geothermally heated groundwater from the Earth's crust. There are geothermal hot springs in many locations all over the crust of the earth."

Ahhh that's good and scientific. We can work with that.

Now, what I'm looking for is hot water that you bathe in. There are a lot of spas where you go to drink the waters, but I'm not into that. I am into floating in warm water with a good flow, super full of minerals, and if it's kind of smelly that's good too.

Back to Wiki:

"Therapeutic uses:
Because heated water can hold more dissolved solids, warm and especially hot springs also often have a very high mineral content, containing everything from simple calcium to lithium, and even radium. Because of both the folklore and the claimed medical value some of these springs have, they are often popular tourist destinations, and locations for rehabilitation clinics for those with disabilities."

Ah, that's perfect. We're ready to go!

Helpful Info

2011-11-06T10:45:00.000-08:00

Preparing your swim bag - things you'll need, or will be happy to have with you:

Flip flops, or some kind of slipper to wear on the pool deck and shower. In Italy you do not go barefoot in these areas, and outdoor shoes are not allowed.
Your swimsuit. Pretty much anything goes, but my boyfriend and I had a good laugh at a woman wearing a thong, so you might want to avoid that. When she had to climb a ladder to get out of the pool we wondered why she'd bothered to even put it on. Women wear competitive style suits and bikinis, and tankinis are starting to catch on in Europe, too. Men in Italy mostly wear Speedo style suits, but trunks are fine too.
A towel and/or a bathrobe. If you get to the pool and don't have either of those, the pool will usually have them for rent for about 5 euros each.
A swimcap. Not all pools require them, but most do. Besides helping keep the water and pool clean, the cap with help you avoid mineral buildup in your hair (I learned that one the hard way!)
A lock. Most pools have lockers that you can put your clothes and valuables in while you're in the water. I like the idea of a combination lock, so you don't have to worry about losing the key while you're enjoying the waters. If you don't have a lock, the pool can probably rent or sell you one.

You're probably going to need a car in order to get to the hot springs, as most of them are in pretty secluded locations. Bike or motorcycle enthusiasts can try those. Unfortunately, I don't think there is any public transportation that will get you to the pools, although I will check that out and provide details for the various locations as I visit them.

List of Hot Springs in Tuscany

2011-11-06T08:39:00.000-08:00

Terme Bagni di Lucca
Piazza San Martino, 11
55021 Bagni di Lucca (LU)
Tel: +39 0583 87221 +39 0583 87221

Bagni di Casciana
Piazza Garibaldi, 9
56034 Casciana Terme (PI)
Tel. +39 0587 64461 +39 0587 64461
Fax +39 0587 644629

Nuove Terme San Filippo
Fraz. Bagni San Filippo, 23
Castiglione d'Orcia (SI)
+39 0577 872982

Terme Antica Querciolaia
Via Trieste, 22
53040 Rapolano Terme (SI)
tel.   0577 724091

San Giovanni Terme Rapolano
Via Terme San Giovanni, 52
53040 Rapolano Terme (SI)
Tel. +39 - 0577.72 40 30

Grotta Giusti Natural Spa Resort
Via Grottagiusti, 1411
51015 - Monsummano Terme
Tel. +39 0572 90771 +39 0572 90771

Fonteverde Natural Spa Resort
Localita' terme 1
53040 San Casciano dei Bagni (SI)
Tel. +39 0578 57241

Terme di Petriolo
Loc. Petriolo
53015 Monticiano (SI)
tel 0577.757104

Calidario Terme Etrusche
Via del Bottaccio, 40
57021 Venturina (LI)
Tel. + 39 0565 851504

Hotel Posta Marcucci
Piscina Val di Sole
BAGNO VIGNONI (SI)
Tel. (0577) 88.71.12

Terme di Sorano
Località S.Maria dell'Aquila
58010 - Sorano (GR)
Tel. (+39) 0564 633306

Terme di Equi
Piazza delle Terme n.1
54013 Equi Terme (MS)
Tel. 0585/949300

Terme di Porretta
Hotel delle Acque & Natural SPA
Via Roma 5
40046 Porretta Terme (BO)
Tel. 0534/22062

Piscina Termale Redi
Viale Bicchierai, 62 / Viale Marconi 2
Montecatini Terme PT
tel. +39 0572 778547

Terme di Saturnia
58014 Saturnia (Grosseto)
Tel 0564 600 111

Piscine Termali Theia
Piazza Marconi, 8
53042 Chianciano Terme
tel 848 800 243

The Premiss

2011-11-03T04:26:00.000-07:00

I love floating around in water, and if you're reading this blog, I bet you do too. I especially love the warm water of hot springs, or thermal pools as they are also called, which, given the continuous flow of clean water, can be enjoyed without the addition of chlorine.

Don't get me wrong - I love clorine too. Chlorine saves lives. I have been known to say that it is much more likely that you will be killed by a one-cell animal than anything that has teeth. Why would I say that? Well, for 5 years in a row I organized swims across the Strait of Messina, the body of water which separates mainland Italy from the island of Sicily. Of the 150 swimmers I conducted through that swim, a lot of them asked me about sharks. I answered that I am much more afraid of bacteria than I am of sharks. So, I love chlorine. I love the smell of chlorine in the morning. I can find a swimming pool from blocks away by following my nose and the scents of chlorine.

But there's something special about pools that don't have to be treated with chemicals to make them safe for crowds of swimmers. Many of the seas and oceans of our planet still have areas that are clean enough to swim in, and the salt water of them replenishes body and soul. I do competitive "open water" swimming races just to get as much of that water into my spiritual system as I can! I grew up in Northern California, and I used to throw myself into the Pacific Ocean at every opportunity - I couldn't get enough of it. Luckily I now live on the Mediterranean where the temperatures are more inviting.

As for thermal pools, or hot springs, there is something magical about them, isn't there? Something mystical, enhanced by the steam that rises from them on cold days, the entrances often architected through underground tunnels in damp quarters that bring you out into the glorious sun, or the smells of sulfur or other minerals that are so unpleasant you think they must be good for you.
The other day I went to the thermal pool at Rapolano Terme in southern Tuscany for the first time... I have been to many thermal pools in Tuscany (and other places too), but I honestly had never heard of Rapolano Terme before. What an amazing surpise! It was a holiday weekend, and the 4 pools encrusted with mineral buildup through which the water cascades creating progressively cooler pools were crowed with lazy bathers. And yet, it was comfortable and soothing. It was just what I needed.

I had been thinking for some time that I would like to write a blog, to share with my friends abroad some aspect of my life in Italy, but I didn't know what to write about. Now I have found it!

One by one I will visit the thermal baths of Tuscany, and write about them. I'm looking forward to doing the research for this project!

I hope you will enjoy the journey.