HOUSE CONSTRUCTION IN INDIA

BEDROOMS

noreply@blogger.com (Minu CP) — Mon, 28 Nov 2011 07:26:00 +0000

DESIGN:

VAASTU SHASTRA:

VAASTU SHASTRA OF A BEDROOM

MURPHY BED

noreply@blogger.com (Minu CP) — Mon, 28 Nov 2011 07:16:00 +0000

The Murphy Bed also known as wallbed, or fold away bed – was named after William Murphy who invented it in the beginning of the twentieth century to make more space in his one-bed apartment to entertain his friends. The idea behind designing such a bed was to create more space in a small and limited room - when not required, the bed folds away vertically into the wall or a closet, allowing the room to be used for other purposes and when required, it unfolds to transform the room into a bedroom.

PARTS OF A MURPHY BED:

Storage: Murphy beds are stored vertically against a wall or inside a closet or cabinet, as part of a complete system of wall units – sometimes you can’t even tell that the bed is there.
Mechanism: They usually have a counter-balancing mechanism to allow for easy raising and lowering.You can flip the bed at one of its horizontal edges, generally at the head, to make it stand vertically inside a wall or closet.
Mattress and frame: The mattress is generally attached to the bed frame, with a lock at each corner and lies on wire mesh instead of box springs.
Headboard/footboard: Another unique characteristic of the Murphy bed is that, they generally do not have headboards, footboards or bed rails.
Night tables: Some units include extras such as fold-out night tables.

TYPES OF MURPHY BEDS:

The original panel style – where the whole bed simply folds down from the wall in one go. A panel bed has the advantage that with no doors to open, less space is used.
The Bi-Fold or Closet style – The Murphy bed is stored inside a closet in the wall of a bedroom or living room. When the doors are opened, the bed folds out from within. Bi-Folds tend to have simpler and lighter operating mechanismsNowadays Murphy beds have been revamped to include modular cabinetry with glass, mirrors, lighting, or additional units for entertainment storage or computer centers..
Hide-away bed: The hideaway bed is not concealed behind a wall or closet. Instead, the hideaway bed has a dual purpose – it can be used as a shelf or desk. The hide-away desk remains perfectly horizontal in all its movement.

ADVANTAGES OF MURPHY BEDS:

Space: The biggest advantage of Murphy bed is that it can be easily folded away during the daytime, when not required and you can utilize the space for some other purposes.
Economical: Murphy beds are economical and pocket friendly. At times, the Murphy beds are found to be cheaper than the regular ones.
Usefulness: Murphy beds can be used by anyone including pets!

DISADVANTAGES OF THE MURPHY BED:

Comfort: In comparison to the regular beds, Murphy beds are not as comfortable or sturdy as regular beds because these beds use wire mesh instead of box springs.
No Scope For Decoration: Since Murphy beds do not have headboards, footboards, or bed rails, they provide no scope for decoration.
Tedious Task: Since Murphy beds are used in limited space, you need to fold the bed every morning you get up. This task may become tedious over time.

USAGE OF MURPHY BEDS:

In recent times, the wallbed has not been so popular because of the availability of alternative, space-saving beds such as futons or trundle beds which are a lot more comfortable. However, as cities are getting crowded, the apartments are getting smaller and in such spaces, Murphy beds are the best alternative.

TYPES OF BEDS

noreply@blogger.com (Minu CP) — Mon, 27 Jun 2011 14:49:00 +0000

In a Bedroom, the bed is the first thing that catches your attention. In fact, the decor of the bedroom depends upon the type of the bed, its positioning, colour, design and size. You can enhance the decor of your bedroom, by choosing the right size, style and type of the bed.

In addition, a comfortable bed is essential for good sleep and rest. There are a wide variety of beds to choose from as per your personal preferences and the decor of your bedroom. You can get the traditional range of beds, as well as those that fit into the contemporary home decor. Described here are the various types of beds, listed in alphabetical order:

BUNK BED:

A bunk bed consists of a set of two or three beds, each one placed on top of the other. It is specially designed with the help of a bed frame. It is best suited for a small bedroom and for kids.

CANOPY BEDS:

A canopy bed adds the extra style and luxury for an extravagant bedroom. It is also called the 'Four Poster bed'. It is like any other bed with a wood or metal frame, but covered with a canopy drape. Canopy beds are ideal for a romantic bedroom decor.

FUTON BEDS:

They are generally sofa beds playing the dual role of a sofa as well as a bed. It consists of a wood or a metal frame with a thin bed with a cover. The frame can be adjusted to use it as a bed in the night and a sofa during the day. Though they bear the complaint of discomfort, they are ideal when you have a guest at home, for a night stay and you have limited accommodation at your disposal.

MURPHY BEDS (Wall Beds or fold away bed)

Murphy bed was founded by William Murphy to tackle space constraint. The bed folds onto the wall during the day and at night unfolds to resemble a bedroom.The idea behind designing such a bed was to make provision for more space in a small room.

PLATFORM BED:

As the name implies it is a simple wooden or a metal platform for the mattress to be mounted on it. It is usually a low seated one, sometimes with legs that allow under bed storage.Ideal for people, who are fond of spacious and simple rooms, platform beds are those that comprise of raised, flat, hard, horizontal surface, meant to support just a mattress.

SOFA BED:

The latest style in the world of furniture has come in the form of the modern sofa bed. A sofa bed, serving multiple purposes, comes across as a very versatile piece of furniture.

TRUNDLE BED:

Trundle beds are also space saving beds with wheels or casters that simply slide underneath another bed when not put to use.

VAASTU SHASTRA | APARTMENT SITE SELECTION

noreply@blogger.com (Minu CP) — Wed, 09 Mar 2011 10:11:00 +0000

It is not easy to apply Vaastu Shastra principles to apartments because each floor of an apartment block has many units with common walls and it is difficult to position the rooms and the main door of each unit in the right directions. So, the apartment building is considered as one unit and placed in the Site according to Vastu Shastra principles.

The Selection of Site for an Apartment is an important consideration since the plot represents a 'fixed form' which radiates positive as well as negative energy depending on its, location, shape, orientation, slope and soil condition. Here, I have explained the Vaastu Guidelines for Selecting the 'right' Site:

Shape of Site: The Site should be a quadrangle with the N-E and S-W angles 90 degrees or less and the N-W and S-E corners 90 degrees or more. ie; the N-E to S-W axis should be more than the N-W to S-E axis.
Road direction: The road abutting the Site can be in any direction though a road on the North and/or East is preferred.
Number of Roads: It is ideal to have two roads on two sides of the Site.
Gates: The gates to the Site can be on the North-North-East, East-North East, West-North West or South-South East corners.
Slope of the Site: The Site should slope from the South-West (highest corner) to the North-East (lowest corner).

Location of Water source, water bodies: The water source and other water bodies should be located in the North-East corner.
Location of Apartment building: The apartment blocks should be located towards the South-West corner and there should be more open spaces in the North and East corners.
Rain water drainage: should be directed to the North-East corner.
Compound wall: The Compound walls should be low on the Northern and Eastern sides and higher on the Southern and Western sides.
Landscape: Lawns and low height garden plants can be located in the North-East corner but big and tall trees should be positioned on the South and West sides only.

This post was about the importance of 'Site Selection for an Apartment. Read about the Vaastu Shastra guidelines for the design of an apartment building:

VAASTU SHASTRA | APARTMENT DESIGN

SUGGESTED READING:
Vaastu Shastra is a rational science based on facts, observations and governed by a set of principles. To understand the logic and reasoning of these Vaastu principles, go to:

VASTU GUIDELINES | APARTMENT SITE

VAASTU SHASTRA | STORE ROOMS

noreply@blogger.com (Minu CP) — Mon, 31 Jan 2011 10:08:00 +0000

The Store Room as the name suggests is the room for storing grains, foodstuff and/or junk. This room should be free from dampness which encourages the growth of fungus and bacteria that will spoil the foodstuff. The Store room used for food storage is usually located near the Kitchen whereas the store room used exclusively for junk storage may be under a staircase or elsewhere. Here, are some Vastu Guidelines to be considered when designing a Store room.

LOCATION OF A STORE ROOM:

The food Store room should ideally be in the South portion of building, adjacent to the Kitchen in the South-East
The junk Store room can be located in the North-West or West directions.

DOOR AND WINDOW POSITIONS IN A STORE ROOM:

The door to the Store room can be placed in any direction preferrably in the East, North and South-East.
The door to the Store room must open into the store room and have two shutters.
The windows in the Store room should be on the Eastern or Western walls.

OTHER VASTU GUIDELINES FOR A STORE ROOM:

The height of granary room should be more than other rooms.
Things like oil, ghee and gas cylinder etc should be stored in the South-East corner of the Store room.
Avoid any kind of empty containers in the Store room.
Never sleep in storage room as the vibrations tend to obstruct the sleep.

IDEAL COLOURS FOR A STORE ROOM:

The ideal colours for a Store room are tints of white, yellow or blue.

This post is about the Vastu guidelines for the design of a Store room. The Store room is usually located near the Kitchen or under a staircase. Read the Vastu guidelines for the design of these spaces here:

SUGGESTED READING:
Vaastu Shastra is a rational science based on facts, observations and governed by a set of principles. To understand the logic and Scientific reasoning of these Vaastu principles, go to: Vastu Guidelines | Store Room

VAASTU GUIDELINES | INTERNAL DOORS AND WINDOWS

noreply@blogger.com (Minu CP) — Tue, 26 Oct 2010 03:37:00 +0000

In Vastu Shastra, the positioning of the doors and windows is important because they let in the air, light and energy into the rooms of the house. If they are in the right positions, then there is a positive flow of air, light and energy from the outside to the inside and from room to room, thus enhancing the health and the lives of the inmates. Here, I have discussed the Vastu Guidelines for the internal doors and windows of a house

VAASTU SHASTRA GUIDELINES FOR THE INTERNAL DOORS OF A HOUSE:

Number of doors: A house should have even number of doors instead of odd number.
Placement of internal doors: The internal doors can be placed according to the room arrangement, furniture arrangement to ensure easy and comfortable circulation and movement from room to room.
Placement of the Main door: For the Main door it is advisable to follow the rules explained below because every time you enter your house you activate a presiding energy in relationship to the mandala of the house at that point. So the main door must be precisely located for the activation of beneficial energy.

VAASTU SHASTRA GUIDELINES FOR THE PLACEMENT OF THE MAIN DOOR:

To figure out where to place a main door, imagine that you are standing outside the front of the house. Divide the front facade of the house into two parts with an imaginary, middle, vertical line. The main door should be placed towards the centre, either in the left or the right half, depending on the direction the house faces.

Avoid placing the main door in the corners: The main door should not be placed at the corner of two walls, but a few feet away from the corner junction.
For a East facing House: Avoid placing a door in the South-East, instead place it towards the right half, that is towards the North-East as shown here.

For a South-facing house: Avoid placing a door in the left half (South-West), instead place it in the right half, that is in the South-East, as shown here.
For a South-facing house: If a house has a main entrance in the South there should be one more corresponding to it in the North direction also.

For a West-facing house: Avoid placing a door in the right half (South-West), instead place it in the left half, that is in the North-West, as shown here.
For a West-facing house: If a house has a main entrance in the West it should have a corresponding door in the East also.

For a North-facing house: Avoid placing a door in the right half (North-West), instead place it in the left half, that is in the North-East, as shown in the diagram here.

VAASTU SHASTRA GUIDELINES FOR THE POSITION OF WINDOWS OF A HOUSE:

Window position: The windows should be opposite to the doors so that both the positive and negative cycles are completed.
Window position in North wall: The windows in the North wall should be more towards the North-East and should be long and wide.
Window position in East wall: The windows in the East wall should be more towards the North-East and should be long and wide.
Window position in the South and West walls: Avoid too many windows in the South and West directions.

VAASTU SHASTRA GUIDELINES FOR THE NUMBER OF WINDOWS IN A HOUSE:

There should be an even number of windows in the house, like 2, 4, 6, 8 etc.
Avoid odd number of windows like 1, 3, 5, 7, 9 .

This post was about the Vastu guidelines for the positioning of the internal doors and windows during the construction of a House. Once the house construction is over, a house-warming pooja should be performed before you begin living in the house. Read about this ritual here:

VAASTU GUIDELINES: HOUSE-WARMING POOJA

VAASTU GUIDELINES | MAIN DOOR

noreply@blogger.com (Minu CP) — Thu, 16 Sep 2010 09:57:00 +0000

Halfway through the construction of the house, there is a Vaastu ritual for fixing the main door. In Vaastu Shastra, the main entrance door is considered important because every time you enter your house through it, you activate a presiding energy in relationship to the mandala of the house at that point. So, the main door must be precisely located such that it activates the most beneficial energy. Here, I have explained the Vaastu specifications and guidelines for the location of the main door of a House.

VAASTU SHASTRA GUIDELINES FOR THE LOCATION OF THE MAIN DOOR:

In Vaastu, the main door can be located facing any direction - no direction is considered bad. But, whichever direction the door is facing, it should be placed in the right position. To figure out where to place a main door, divide the front facade of the house into nine parts. Generally the door should be in the fourth or the sixth module from the left, when facing the house.

A North- facing maindoor: should be in the 4th module from the left when facing the house, that is in the North-East.
A West facing main door: can be located in the 4th module from the left when facing the house, that is in the North-West and not towards the South-West.
A South facing main door: must not be in the center of the building but should be in the 6th module from the left when facing the house, that is more towards the South-East.
An East facing main door: can be located in the 6th module from the left when facing the house, that is more to the North-East.

VAASTU SHASTRA SPECIFICATIONS FOR THE MAIN DOOR:

Opposite house: The main door should not directly face the main door of the opposite house.
Abandoned/dilapidated buildings: The main door should not directly face an abandoned, rundown or dilapidated building:.
Entrance gate: The entrance gate and the main door should be on the same side: It is not considered good if the main door to the house is on the opposite side to the entrance of the property.
Sump/septic tank: Avoid having an underground tank, septic tank under the main entrance.
Corner of the house: Avoid locating the main entrance door in the corners of the house.
Wall opposite main door: Avoid locating a wall directly in front of the entrance door. There should be a door that opens to the next room in line of sight, opposite the main door.
Exit door: It is preferable to have two doors, an entrance and an exit door: However, the exit door should be smaller than the entrance door.
Size of the main door: The main entrance door should be the largest door of the house.
Opening of the main door: The main door should open inside and clockwise.

Self-closing locks: Avoid self-closing doors.
Creaking door: Avoid creaking doors. Oil the hinges regularly to stop creaking.
Threshold: The main door should have a threshold and shoes should not be kept in front of the door, but to the side.
Auspicious signs: The main door should have auspicious signs like ‘Om’ and “Swastika’.
Wood: Wood of Teak, Honne, Matti are good for the main door. Wood from Peepal, Coconut, flowering trees, fruit bearing trees, thorny trees, fragrant trees, etc should not be used.
Vaastu Pooja: The main entrance door should be fixed on an auspicious day after performing Vaastu Pooja.

This post was about the the importance of the Main door and the Vaastu Guidelines and specifications for fixing the main entrance door. For Vaastu guidelines on the internal doors and windows, go to:

VAASTU GUIDELINES | DOORS AND WINDOWS

VAASTU GUDELINES | CONSTRUCTION OF A HOUSE

noreply@blogger.com (Minu CP) — Thu, 26 Aug 2010 07:30:00 +0000

Once the excavation and laying of Foundation/Column Footings has been done, the construction of the remaining structure of the House can be commenced. When constructing a House, one must follow some basic guidelines. Here, I have explained the general Vaastu Guidelines for the Construction of a House.

VAASTU SHASTRA GUIDELINES FOR THE CONSTRUCTION OF A HOUSE:

Some points to be considered during construction of a house are the following:

Setbacks: Open spaces (setbacks) should be left on all four sides of the house.
Slope: The open spaces around the house should slope from the South and West sides to the North and East sides and outlets of rainwater should be in North-East or North zones.
Building material: Only new building material, bricks, wood and steel should be used when building a new house.
Old, salvaged material: Avoid using old building material, rebarred rods and salvaged material from old /demolished buildings, for the construction. If there is old material available, it is better to sell it and use the money to buy new building material.
Material stored for a long time should not be used. Iron grills, gates and steel required for the construction should be made and brought to site, only when needed.

Quality of materials: Good quality sand, gravel and cement should be used.
Wood: Wood from thorny trees should not be used.
Commencement of construction: Construction should be started within 90 days from the completion of the Compound Wall. Construction should not stop once it begins.
Speed of construction work: Workers should not be unnecessarily pushed to speed up their work.
Supervisor: A qualified supervisor should always oversee the construction.
Working at night: Work for the day should stop at sunset.

This post was about the general Vaastu Guidelines to be followed during the construction of the House. Halfway during the Construction, there is a ritual for fixing the Main Entrance door. The importance of the Main door and the Vaastu guidelines for the fixing of the Entrance door have been explained here:

VAASTU GUIDELINES | MAIN ENTRANCE DOOR

VAASTU GUIDELINES | FOUNDATION

noreply@blogger.com (Minu CP) — Fri, 02 Jul 2010 16:11:00 +0000

After the construction of the Compound wall, you can begin the actual construction of the House. It is preferrable to construct the compound wall on 3 sides only and keep the front open, to facilitate bringing in of materials to the site. The first step in the construction of a House is the Excavation and laying of Foundation. Here, I have explained the Vaastu Guidelines for Laying of the Foundation.

VAASTU GUIDELINES FOR THE FOUNDATION:

Before Excavation: Before commencing the excavation for the Building, certain rituals and work should be done. This has been explained step by step in the post, Vastu Guidelines | Before Construction. These steps include:

Determination of the Site Orientation.
Clearing of the Site.
Vastu or Bhoomi Pooja.
Soil Test.
Balidaana (offertory ritual).
Hala-Karshana - Levelling of Site.
Ankura-roopana (Seed Sowing ritual).
Digging of Well/Borewell.
Construction of Storage Shed.
Construction of Sump (underground Water tank).
Construction of Compound Wall.

Commencement of excavation: The Excavation work for the foundation of the Building should start on an auspicious day.
Direction of Excavation: The excavation should start from the North-East corner of the building and end in the South-West corner. Therefore, the direction of excavation should be from N-E to S-E, then S-E to S-W corner. Simultaneously, the excavation should be from N-E to N-W, then N-W to S-W corner.
Shilaanyaasa or the foundation laying ceremony: After the excavation for the foundation has been completed, the stone which was consecrated at the time of the Vastu Pooja, should be laid in the South-West corner of the excavated trenches.
Foundation work: The foundation work like laying of the bed concrete, building the stone foundation or column footing, etc. should always start from the South-West corner and end in the North-East corner.
Filling of earth: The filling of earth around the foundation should commence from the South-West and end in the North-East.
Demolition: In case of demolition of an old building, the work should start from the North-East corner. The old building materials should not be re-used for the new construction, unless their quality is guaranteed.

This post was about the Excavation and laying of Foundation/Column Footings. Read about the Vaastu Guidelines for the Construction of the remaining structure of the House in:

VAASTU GUIDELINES FOR CONSTRUCTION

VAASTU GUIDELINES | COMPOUND WALL CONSTRUCTION

noreply@blogger.com (Minu CP) — Mon, 07 Jun 2010 11:56:00 +0000

Before the start of the House construction, in addition to digging the well/borewell and constructing the storage shed, it is necessary to construct the Compound wall to protect the site from animals, thieves, etc and to demarcate the boundary of the property. Here, I have explained the Vaastu Guidelines for Construction of the Compound Wall.

VAASTU GUIDELINES FOR THE COMPOUND WALL:

Compound Wall: The third thing to be constructed after the Water Well and the Storage Shed is the Compound Wall. This should be built just before the construction of the House begins. The purpose of the Compound wall is to protect the site and the material stored in the Storage shed, from the outside environment, from thieves, etc. However, if there are buildings all around the site, the Compound wall can be done after the construction.
Start construction: Begin Compound wall construction in the South-East corner on an auspicious day. The Northern part of Compound wall should be built last.
Thickness: The compound wall should be thicker in the South and West sides.
Height of compound wall: The Compound wall should not be taller than the house. It should be two-thirds the height of the main door.
Height on different sides: The Compound walls on the North and East sides should be a foot (12 inches) shorter than on the West and South sides. If this is not possible, then the North and East sides should be a minimum of (3 inches) shorter.

VAASTU GUIDELINES FOR THE MAIN GATE AND SMALLER GATES:

Number of gates: Two gates are preferrable, a big gate for the car to enter and a smaller gate which is easier to handle near the entrance.
Gates in corners: Avoid gates in the extreme corners. It is inconvenient to open and close a gate that is fixed to the corners of the wall.
Gate and entrance door: The main gate and the entrance door should face the same direction as it is easier to locate the door if the door is also facing the same direction as the gate.
Avoid a gate in the South side.
Gate opening: Gates should open clockwise.

This post was about the Construction of the Compound wall. Read about the next Stage of Construction:

VAASTU GUIDELINES | FOUNDATION

VAASTU GUIDELINES | STORAGE SHED

noreply@blogger.com (Minu CP) — Fri, 04 Jun 2010 05:37:00 +0000

Before the start of the house construction, it is necessary to have a Storage shed, in a corner of the Site, for storing construction material and also to serve as a house for the Watchman. Here, I have explained the Vaastu Guidelines for Construction of a Storage shed.

VAASTU GUIDELINES FOR THE STORAGE SHED:

Storage Shed: Before the start of the Construction, after the digging of the Well/Borewell, the second thing to be constructed is a Storage shed for storing all the material like cement, wood etc. The construction of this shed in accordance with Vaastu, prevents thefts and helps in the smooth flow of the construction work.
Watchman: A watchman should be retained to take care of the material stored in the shed. Moreover, the watchman can help in taking care of other aspects of construction like curing (pouring water on RCC components) etc.

Location of storage shed: The Storage Shed should preferrably be in the South-West corner as the infra-red heat rays of the Sun, which are projected to the South-West will keep the material stored in the shed free from moisture.
Avoid: The Storage Shed should not be located in the North-East corner. The Storage shed can be located in any part of the site except in the North or East.
Portable shed: The Storage shed should preferrably be portable as it can be removed from the site after the construction is completed. It should not be used for further storage/living.
Demolition of shed: The Storage Shed should be demolished after completion of construction to allow proper movement around the site, proper flow of air and light into the building as otherwise it will be an obstruction.

This post was about the Construction of a Storage Shed. Read about the next Stage in Construction:

VASTU GUIDELINES | CONSTRUCTION OF COMPOUND WALL

VAASTU GUIDELINES | HOUSE WARMING RITUAL

noreply@blogger.com (Minu CP) — Mon, 31 May 2010 12:56:00 +0000

A House-warming ceremony also known as Grahapravesha ceremony, is done after the completion of the building on the day, the Owner occupies the building. This is essentially done to purify the house by means of a pooja (ritual) and to make it ready for occupation.

VAASTU GUIDELINES FOR THE GRAHAPRAVESHA- HOUSE WARMING CEREMONY:

Choose an auspicious day: After the completion of the Building, the Grahapravesha ceremony should be done on an auspicious and good day selected, after consulting a priest or astrologer.
At an auspicious time:The Vastu Pooja should be done at an auspicious time after consulting a priest. Normally it is started at night and goes on till dawn.
The house construction should have been completed before the ceremony: The building should be complete in all respects, before the Grahapravesham is held. Even the upper floors should be ready for occupation.
Cooking or using the toilet should be avoided before the ceremony. All activities should commence only after the House has been blessed.
The Building should be scrupulously cleaned and decorated before the function. The main entrance door should be decorated according to the custom of the Owner.
Grahapravesh rituals: The owner and his family join the priest in performing the rituals.
Grahapravesham lunch: After the rituals, the guests and all the workers who were involved in the construction, are treated to a lunch.
Gifts for the workers: The workers engaged in the Construction are presented with gifts as a token of appreciation by the Owner.
Occupying the House: After the function, the family should from that very day, start living in the building.

RITUALS DURING GRIHAPRAVESHAM - HOUSE WARMING CEREMONY: During the ceremony, the Owner and his family enter the Building and partake of the poojas (Rituals), which the priest performs in the Brahmastana- centre of the Building, to the imaginary Vastu Purusha. Some of the rituals include the following:

Five essential items: for the ceremony include, Milk which represents the element Water, Incense which is symbolic of Air, Flowers that represent Earth, Fire or Light that symbolises Fire and the sound of a Bell that represents Space. In this way, all the five elements of Nature are brought together and offered to the divine power to ensure prosperity and protection of the inmates.
Enshrining of family deities in pooja room: The family's deities are enshrined in the Pooja Room and worshipped and venerated.
Boiling of milk: The lady of the house boils milk, till it overflows. The milk is shared between the family members to signify that the family should share the good and the bad always.
Sprinkling of holy water: This is followed by prayers for good health, wealth and happiness. Finally holy water is sprinkled throughout the Building to purify all the corners.
Smoke is allowed to permeate the whole house: The Pooja fire is allowed to burn out and lot of sweet smelling smoke is allowed to pervade the house. This signifies that the Building has been purified.

This post was about the the Grahapravesha ceremony, the final ritual to be done after the completion of the building, just before occupying it. Also read about the other rituals that are done before construction:

VASTU GUIDELINES | RITUALS BEFORE CONSTRUCTION

VAASTU GUIDELINES | DIGGING WELL / BOREWELL

noreply@blogger.com (Minu CP) — Sat, 29 May 2010 06:27:00 +0000

Before the start of construction, it is useful to have a source of water at the site, since a lot of water will be required. Moreover, the water source will be useful for the inmates after they move into the house. Here, I have explained the Vastu Guidelines for digging a Well.

SOURCES OF WATER IN A HOUSE:

The most common Water sources in a Site are the Open Well, the Borewell (Drilled Well) and the Municipal Water supply.

Open Well: is an excavation in the ground created by digging to access the groundwater which is natuarlly stored below the ground as a result of the seeping in of rainwater. This water is more likely to be polluted as it is near the Earth's surface.
Borewell (Drilled Well): is much deeper and water is got by driving, boring or drilling through rock to an aquifer below. This water is most likely to be uncontaminated as it is sandwiched between rocks deep below the Earth.

VASTU SHASTRA GUIDELINES FOR THE WELL OR BOREWELL:

Before the start of house construction a Well should be dug, so that the water can be used for the Construction.
If it is not possible to get water by digging a Well, or if there is the likelihood that an open Well will get polluted, then a Borewell can be drilled after consulting an expert and a water diviner, and only if there is good yield of water.
The Well should have a circular cross-section.
The Well should be dug after the bhoomi pooja has been performed on the site, at an astrologically auspicious time.
It is ideal that the digging of a Well/Borewell be completed within a day as it can be fenced off or in case of a Borewell, covered with a stump to prevent anyone from falling in.
It is better to start the digging early and complete the digging before night as one cannot see clearly.
Avoid trees around an open Well.
Alum, limestone, gooseberry bark help to keep the water clear.

VAASTUGUIDELINES FOR POSITION OF A WELL/ BOREWELL/WATER SOURCE:

First option for a well is the North-East.
Second option for the Well is the North or the East sides.
Avoid a Well in the South, South-West or North-West.
Avoid a Well in the middle of the Site.
Avoid a well and pump house very close to the compound walls.
Avoid a Well touching the House walls.
Avoid sharing of well between two properties.

This post was about the Water Source, the Digging of Well/Borewell. Read about the next Step in Construction:

VAASTU GUIDELINES | CONSTRUCTION OF STORAGE SHED

VAASTU GUIDELINES | RITUALS BEFORE CONSTRUCTION

noreply@blogger.com (Minu CP) — Tue, 25 May 2010 06:39:00 +0000

It is recommended in Vaastu Shastra, that certain rituals be performed before and during the Construction of a House. Here, I have explained the Vaastu Guidelines for Rituals to be done before the commencement of the Construction.

RITUALS TO BE DONE JUST BEFORE CONSTRUCTION:

According to Vaastu Shastra, there are five rituals or Poojas to be done before the actual construction begins. They have been explained below:

VAASTU POOJA: The first ritual to be done before starting the construction, is a Vaastu pooja or Bhoomi Pooja. This should be done at an auspicious time and on an auspicious day, as fixed by your astrologer/priest (normally it is done in the morning). The pooja should be done in the North-East corner of the site. Before doing the pooja, the site should be cleared. Dirt, stones, holes in the ground, and trash should be removed. Thorny bushes should also be uprooted and removed. Note that, Vaastu Pooja is performed thrice during the construction as explained here:

At the start: As explained above, just before the start of the Construction.
In the middle: The second time is in the middle, at the time of fixing the Main door.
At the end: The third time is at the end during the Grahapravesham (House Warming Ceremony).

BALIDAANA (Offertory ritual): This is the second ritual to be done before the start of Construction. It is an offertory ritual and offerings are made and spirits and demons are requested to leave the site.

HALA-KARSHANA (Levelling of site) : This is the third ritual, wherein the Site is levelled and sloped according Vaastu guidelines for Site Slope, so that the Site is at a higher level than the road level and the South-West corner is higher than the North-East corner. It is also recommended that the whole site be ploughed to rid it of the past and give the soil a new life.

ANKURAA-ROOPANA (Sowing of seed): This is the fourth ritual, the sowing of the seed and a final offering to the memory of those who have left the place. It is also the first offering to the new ploughed ground.

SHILAANYAASA (Foundation laying): This is the fifth ritual, the foundation laying ceremony. The groundbreaking ceremony for the house should only be done during the Uttarayan period, when the Sun is in the northern hemisphere, from June 21 through December 20.

This post was about the Rituals to be followed before construction. Read about the next stage in Construction

VAASTU GUIDLEINES | DIGGING OF WELL/BOREWELL

VAASTU GUIDELINES | BEFORE CONSTRUCTION

noreply@blogger.com (Minu CP) — Mon, 17 May 2010 10:19:00 +0000

VAASTU GUIDELINES TO BE FOLLOWED BEFORE THE START OF CONSTRUCTION:

Before the start of the Construction of the Building, it is necessary to be prepared for the actual construction. According to Vaastu Shastra, you should ensure that the following steps, mentioned in the order given here, should be followed.

Determination of Site Orientation: The directions of the Site should be determined with the help of a Compass. If the axis of the Site is not parallel to the Earth's magnetic axis (North-South axis), then the angle of tilt should be measured. All the corners of the plot should be 90 degree-aligned and the Compound wall should be constructed only after the proper alignment of the corners.
Clearing of Site: The next thing to be done is to clear the Site of all the dirt, stones, debris, thorny bushes, shrubs etc.
Vastu Pooja: After the Site is cleared, the first ritual, named 'Vaastu pooja' or 'Bhoomi pooja' should be done before starting the construction. This is ritualistic and should be done at an auspicious time and on an auspicious day, as fixed by your astrologer. The pooja should be done in the North-East corner of the site.
Soil test: Two pits of size 2'x2'x2' each should be dug at the Site, preferably in the place where the sump is going to be located. Fill up one of the pits with the dug-up soil. If some soil is left over after filling, the land isgood. If there is no soil left after filling up, it is average. If the hole is not fully filled, it is not good. Fill up the other pit with water. If the time taken to absorb the water is more than an hour, it is good. After the water is absorbed, if there are many cracks in the hole then it is not good.
Balidaana (Offertory ritual): After this, the second ritual namely, Balidaana should be done, wherein offerings are made and spirits and demons are requested to leave the site.
Hala -Karshana (Levelling of Site): This is followed by the third ritual called Hala-karshana. This is the levelling of the site, wherein the site is levelled and sloped according to Vastu guidelines for Site Slope, so that the site is at a higher level than the road level and the South-West corner is higher than the North-East corner. Vastu also recommends that the whole site be ploughed to rid it of the past and give the soil a new life. If the land contains any Wells or other depressions, they should be filled up and levelled.If it contains any mounds or rocks, they should be levelled.
Ankuraa-Roopana (Sowing of seed): The levelling is followed by the fourth ritual named Ankuraa-roopana, wherein seed is sowed as a final offering to the memory of those who have left the place and is also the first offering to the new ploughed ground.
Digging of Borewell/Well: The next step is the digging of Well/Borewell, at the point suggested by a Water diviner, preferably in the North-East corner, if there is a point there.
Construction of storage shed: After the Well/Borewell, the next step is the construction of the Storage Shed for storing building materials like Cement, Wood etc and also to be used as a house for a Watchman.
Construction of Sump: The next step after the construction of the Sump, is the excavation and construction of an Underground Water tank also known as a Sump, near the front of the Site to facilitate easy connection from the Municipal Water supply pipes.
Compound Wall: After the construction of the Storage Shed and Sump, the next step is the construction of the Compound wall, to protect from the natural elements and from thieves.
Shilaanyaasa: It is the foundation laying ceremony. Trenches are dug for the foundation and the stone which is consecrated at the time of the Vastu Pooja, is laid first in the South-West corner of the trenches. The groundbreaking ceremony for the house should only be done during the Uttarayan period, from June 21 through December 20, when the Sun is in the northern hemisphere.

Construction: One should start the construction of the House only after the above 12 steps have been followed. The Vaastu rituals to be followed before the start of construction have been explained in detail in the next post:

VAASTU GUIDELINES | RITUALS BEFORE CONSTRUCTION

VAASTU | CHOOSING THE COLOURS FOR A HOUSE

noreply@blogger.com (Minu CP) — Mon, 17 May 2010 06:46:00 +0000

Colours are known to influence the human mind and body as they have the ability to either depress or exhilarate. Our body absorbs colour energy through the vibration each colour gives off and these energies help to maintain a healthy body, mind and soul.
Even in ancient times, people were aware of the positive effect of colours. So, Vastu Shastra has laid down guidelines on choosing the right colours for your house.

VAASTU GUIDELINES FOR CHOOSING THE RIGHT COLOURS FOR A HOUSE:
In Vedic periods, all colours were obtained from vegetables and flowers. Though the options were far less than what are available today, they were more permanent, soothing to the eye and more natural in appearance. Today there are so many colours to choose from. But this makes the the choice of the right colour scheme for your house, a difficult task. This is where Vaastu Shastra comes to your aid. According to Vaastu, there are three methods that can be adopted for choosing colours for a house, namely:

Referring the zodiac sign of the owner;
Direction that the rooms/building face;
Amount of light in the room.

1. ZODIAC SIGN OF THE OWNER: In the first and most commonly followed method, the colour schemes are selected in conformance with the raashi (constellation / zodiac sign) of the owner to bring good luck and happiness.

Aries - Coral red
Taurus - Milky white
Gemini - Green
Cancer - Rose red, pearl white
Leo - Ruby red, dim white
Virgo - Emerald green
Libra - Cement color, milky white
Scorpio - Pink, coral red
Sagittarius - Golden yellow
Capricorn - Dim red
Aquarius - Pink, blue
Pisces - Yellow, pure white

Yellow and white are the ideal colours for a 'piscean'.

2. DIRECTION THE BUILDING FACES: In the second method, the colour scheme is chosen according to the direction the building/room faces. Each direction is associated with a particular colour, which is actually the colour of the planet governing that direction. It is advisable to use the recommended colours for different directions to enhance good luck, health and wealth.

EAST : is ruled by the Sun. The preferred colour is DARK BROWN which gives purity.
SOUTH-EAST : is ruled by Venus. The preferred colour is WHITE which gives beauty, charm and luck.
SOUTH : is ruled by Mars. The ideal colour here is RED which gives aggression. However this is preferred only for fire stations or police stations and not for houses.
SOUTH-WEST: is ruled by Rahu. The suitable colour here is BLUE which gives courage.
WEST : is ruled by Saturn. The colour preferred here is GREY which gives satisfaction and maturity.
NORTH : is ruled by Mercury. The colour suitable for this direction is GREEN as this gives intelligence and wealth.
NORTH-WEST: is governed by the moon. The ideal colour here is WHITE as it denotes purity and wealth.
NORTH-EAST: is represented by Jupiter. The ideal colour here is YELLOW as it stands for piety and purity.

A room facing South-West should have more blue.

3. THE AMOUNT OF LIGHT IN A ROOM:
In the third method, you have to consider the amount of light and warmth available in a room. Since blue is a cool shade and red is a warm colour, people often feel cold in a blue room and warm in a red room. It is the colour that makes them feel that way. Similarly, light colours and whites reflect light and make a room brighter. So when painting rooms of a house, one must keep these points in mind. Accordingly;

A Room with poor daylight: should be painted with light colours.
A Room with lot of natural light throughout the day: can be painted in some deep color.
A Room that gets direct sunlight: It is not advisable to paint the walls yellow or peach.
A Room that has only a North window which admits cold light: Avoid the use of blue on the walls.
Ceilings: It is preferrable to paint ceilings white since the ceiling temperature should be less than the human body temperature.

A room with lot of natural light can have deep colours.

Thus you can see that, even in Vaastu, colours were used to improve the sense of well-being and happiness for the residents. They are easy to use, easy to apply and the quickest and cheapest option to create change in a room. So go ahead and make that change in your life. To know more about the effects of each colour and the preffered Vastu colours for the interiors of a house, go to:

VAASTU | COLOURS FOR INTERIORS

LIGHTING TYPES | OUTDOOR LIGHTS

noreply@blogger.com (Minu CP) — Wed, 05 May 2010 13:15:00 +0000

Outdoor lighting - Underwater lighting in the pool

An emerging trend in design, is to transform the area around your home into outdoor living spaces. A great deal of thought, time, effort and money is put into the exterior of a home with landscaping, gardening and more. Outdoor lighting accentuates your efforts and provides dramatic and instant beautification to your property, allowing for increased time you and your family can spend outdoors. It also increases the value and resale of your home. In addition, outdoor lighting adds a new level of home security because dark corners virtually disappear and deter trespassers and intruders.

OUTDOOR LIGHTS:

A lighting fixture designed for outdoor use and engineered to handle the elements is called an oudoor light. Outdoor lighting fixtures combine decorative looks with durability and weather resistance.

TYPES OF OUTDOOR LIGHTING:

Outdoor lighting consists mainly of Entrance lighting, pathway lighting, patio lighting and garden/landscape lighting.

Outdoor flood lighting used to illuminate a stone wall

OUTDOOR LIGHTS STYLES:

There are so many styles to choose from, like Arts and Crafts, Contemporary, Modern, Rustic, Lodge, Tiffany/Art Glass, Traditional and Transitional. All of these items can generally be coordinated to match with an overall design theme.

OUTDOOR LIGHT FIXTURES FOR ENTRANCE:

Types: The commonest examples of Outdoor Entrance Lighting are: Wall Lanterns, Hanging Lanterns, Ceiling Mounted fixtures and Front Entrance Lighting. Wall lanterns can be placed on each side of the door, while recessed, chain-hung, close-to-ceiling fixtures or beautiful chandeliers specifically suited for outdoor use can be hung under the porch.
Size and height: If you have a single wall light on one side of the door, choose a fixture of height approximately one-third of the height of the door. If using lights on both sides, choose fixtures of height one-fourth of the door height. The wall fixtures should be mounted at least 66” above standing level.
Light wattage: If the light is too dim, guests may stumble, if it is too bright, it will dazzle and blind them. You can use 40-75 watt incandescent lamps that give a warm light. Be sure that the light reaches the steps for safety purposes.

Outdoor wall lantern fixed on wall

OUTDOOR LIGHT FIXTURES FOR THE REAR OR SIDE OF YOUR HOUSE:

Type: Use a single wall lantern on the keyhole side of the rear door to provide adequate lighting and security. and have Post Mounted Lanterns in the yard, to ensure safe and easy movement after dark by illuminating the yard, paths and walking areas.
Size and Height: The wall lantern, on one side of the door should have a height of approximately one-third of the height of the door and should be mounted at least 66” above standing level.

LIGHTING FOR THE PATIO:

Patio lighting, not only allows you to spend more time outside at night but also accentuates the best parts of your garden and makes your patio and yard a safer place to be at night. There are many different types of patio lighting. Here are some of the most popular types of patio lighting:

Observe the Solar-powered Post cap lamp light

Deck Lighting: For decks, you can highlight and spotlight any changes in elevations, drop-offs, or deck-edges, by concealing the light fixtures beneath railings, beneath benches, or on vertical posts. In doing so, you create not only a dramatic effect, but a safer deck, as well.
Step Lighting: This type of patio lighting will allow both you and guests to navigate up your steps in safety. You can use a motion sensor step light that glows all night and emits bright light when motion is detected. Or you can place step lighting beneath railings, on vertical posts, or recessed into the steps.
Silhouetting: Silhouetting is a type of patio lighting that highlights the shape of an object. To create the silhouette effect, place a light behind the subject, and shine it up against a vertical surface like the wall of your home.
Shadowing: Use this lighting technique to highlight any interesting shapes that you may have in your garden, including branch structure, sculptures, etc, by creating a shadow. Place your light fixture in front of the item that you want to shadow, and aim the light so that the item will cast its shadow on a surface like the wall of your house. The closer the light is to the item you want to shadow, the larger the shadow will be.
Moon Lighting: Place light fixtures up into a tree and shine them downward. The light will be filtered through the branches of the trees, creating an effect like the moon shining down.
Fountain Lighting: If you have a fountain on your patio or elsewhere in your garden, there are many great types of patio lighting that will make your fountain even more beautiful at night. You can have underwater lights or coloured lights for a dramatic effect. It is also possible to create a mirrored effect on the surface of the water by lighting the area behind the reflecting surface of the water.

Pebble fountain lighting

To decide which of these types of patio lighting to use, think of what you want to spotlight - which subjects will look best as a silhouette or as a shadow and which areas may pose a threat if a person cannot see them.

OUTDOOR LANDSCAPE LIGHTING:

Beautifully designed landscape lighting adds charm and elegance to your home. Landscape lighting is a low voltage lighting system. It is used to bring trees and flowers to life at night, feature focal points around your home, and light pathways and steps for safety and security. It is one of the most dramatic improvements you can make for a modest investment. To know more, go to:

LIGHTING FIXTURES | LANDSCAPE LIGHTING

KITCHENS

noreply@blogger.com (Minu CP) — Wed, 28 Apr 2010 11:29:00 +0000

A kitchen is a room or part of a room used for cooking and food preparation. It may also be used for dining and entertaining. A kitchen is typically equipped with a stove, a sink, a refrigerator, kitchen countertop and kitchen cabinets. In addition there may be a microwave oven, a dishwasher and other electric appliances.

LIGHTING LAMPS

noreply@blogger.com (Minu CP) — Wed, 28 Apr 2010 11:18:00 +0000

A Lamp, commonly called a 'light bulb', is the removable and replaceable portion of a light fixture which converts electrical energy to visible light. There are several types of lighting lamps. Common characteristics used to evaluate lamp quality include efficacy measured in lumens per watt, typical lamp life measured in hours, cost of replacement lamps and Color Rendering Index on a scale of 0 to 100.

LIGHTING FIXTURES

noreply@blogger.com (Minu CP) — Wed, 28 Apr 2010 11:00:00 +0000

A light fixture is an electrical device used to create artificial light and/or illumination. It is a holder for the light lamp. It provides directed light and helps to avoid the visual glare of a naked bulb. Lighting fixtures come in a wide variety of styles. Some are very plain and functional, while some are pieces of art. Any material can be used, so long as it can tolerate the excess heat and is in keeping with safety codes.

LIGHTING

noreply@blogger.com (Minu CP) — Wed, 28 Apr 2010 10:42:00 +0000

Lighting or illumination is the application of light to achieve some aesthetic or practical effect. Lighting includes the use of both artificial light sources such as electric lamps and natural illumination of interiors using sunlight. Proper lighting can enhance task performance or aesthetics, while there can be energy wastage and adverse health effects if the lighting is poorly designed.

KITCHENS | COUNTERTOP MATERIALS

noreply@blogger.com (Minu CP) — Thu, 22 Apr 2010 17:30:00 +0000

A Kitchen countertop usually refers to a horizontal worksurface in kitchens and food preparation areas. It is installed above and supported by cabinets.

When installed in a kitchen, countertops are usually about 24inches (600 mm) from front to back and are designed to slightly-overhang standard kitchen base cabinets. This allows one to conveniently reach objects at the back of the countertop. The face of the countertop may be decorated in ways ranging from plain to very elaborate. The countertop may be cut to accommodate sinks, stoves, ranges, and cooktops, or other accessories such as drain boards.

KITCHEN COUNTERTOP OPTIONS:

The Kitchen countertop needs to be extremely hard-wearing, sturdy and add to the beauty of the kitchen. There are several different types of materials available for Kitchen countertops and it can be very confusing for you, to make the right choice. As an Architect, I have listed the 10 best materials that I would recommend, along with their unique advantages and disadvantages, so that you can make the right choice when you do up your Kitchen.

1. GRANITE:

It is an igneous rock having crystals or grains of visible size and consists mainly of quartz, feldspar and mica or other coloured minerals. It is the second hardest material after diamonds. Granite is one of the best options for Kitchen counter-top material as it is very durable, long-lasting and elegant in appearance.

Advantages:

Holds up to heat;
Comes in a range of almost 3000 colors;
Looks beautiful, permanent and substantial;
Easy to clean because it is as smooth as glass;
Will last a lifetime;
Second highest hardness rating after diamonds;
Resistant to scratches;
Is waterproof and prevents the growth of fungus and bacteria;
Adds a high value to home buyers.

Disadavantages:

Expensive, but becoming more affordable and granite tiles are considerably cheaper;
Requires some maintenance - needs annual sealing;
Some stones absorbs stains if not sealed;
Knives can become dull if you cut on it;
Can crack if stressed or improperly installed.
Replacement of a broken part will be difficult as each piece has a unique colouration and patterns.

2. ENGINEERED STONE

Engineered stone is composed of 95% quartz particles and 5% polymer resins. Engineered stone has all the advantages of granite but is easier to maintain, less porous and more scratch resistant than natural quartz surfaces.

Advantages:

Enginneered stone is available in a wide range of colours and patterns;
It can be customised for your kitchen as it is a flexible material;
It is quite durable and can last for decades before you have to replace it;
It is scratch resistant but can knives wil be dullened if used on it;
It can withstand heat from hot objects;
It has a non-porous surface which is resistant to stains, acid and fungus and bacterial growth;
It is easy to maintain and care and does not need the periodic sealing required for natural stone.

Disadvantages:

It is expensive, sometimes even more than Granite.
It can be installed only with professional help;
An engineered stone countertop does not look natural;
The seams are usually visible along the front edge beacuse the stone is laid by the slab.

3. SOLID SURFACE:

Solid surface countertops get their name from the fact that they are solid throughout the entire thickness. Solid surfaces make use of heavy-duty plastic sheets (acrylic, polyester, or a combination of the two) that are laminated onto a wood/plywood substrate. The countertops are very versatile and can be joined, shaped and finished to your specifications. Solid surface countertops are quite popular because of the wide range of colours and patterns, their simple yet stylish look, smooth feel and low maintenance.

Advantages:

Solid surfaces are quite durable;
They can be custom-made to any shape and size;
They are mostly non-porous and hence stain resistant and prevent the growth of fungus and bacteria;
Solid countertops are available in a wide range of colors and patterns;
Since they are usually installed as a single integrated piece, they do not have seams;
They are easy to maintain and can easily be repaired.

Disadvantages:

They are vulnerable to hot pans as the heat can permanently damage the surface;
They can crack below temperatures of 5 degrees celcius;
They are reasonably expensive.

4. CERAMIC TILE:

Ceramic tiles are made from pressed clay and fired at high temperatures to give the tile it’s hardness and it's matte finish. Some ceramic tiles may have a glaze of metallic oxides, which gives it an iridescent colour effect. They are a good choice for countertops for the average home because they are inexpensive, easy theat resistant and available in a wide range of colours

Advantages:

Ceramic tiles are inexpensive and much more affordable than natural stone like granite and marble.
They are quite durable and can withstand more impact than solid and laminate countertops.
They can withstand heat;
They are easy to clean;
They are available in a wide range colours, textures and design.

Disadvantages:

Ceramic tiles can easily chip or crack under hard impact and extreme temeperatures;
The counter surface is uneven and not smooth because of the tiles and grout joints between;
The grout joints can easily stain and are not easy to maintain;
Tiles can be custom designed, but are very expensive.

5. LAMINATES:

Laminate counter tops are made out of plastic coated synthetics bonded to a bottom substrate. There are two types:

Postformed: Also referred to as "plastic laminate countertop", it is formed by bonding decorative papers and resins through high heat and pressure to the bottom substrate, a wood product.

Self/Wood-edge plastic laminate countertop: Here, the substrate for the countertop is made of MDF or particle board and laminate sheets are glued to it. The laminate is then finished on the edges. This method of laminating can't reproduce the curved contours of post-formed countertops. Laminate countertops are popular because they are inexpensive, easy to clean, hygienic and available in a wide range of colours and designs.

Advantages:

Laminates are available in the widest range of colours, patterns and textures;
A laminate countertop is easy to clean;
It does not harbor the growth of mold, mildew, bacteria, and other microorganisms.
It is affordable compared to other materials.
However, end finishing and front edge choices can be expensive.

Disadvantages:

A laminate countertop is susceptible to scratching, chipping, cuts, and breakage especially along its edges.
It cannot resist heat and burns and can crack when exposed to heat;
A damaged laminate countertop cannot be repaired.
Laminates are not that durable as they cannot withstand cracks, scratches, heat and chipping.

6. WOODEN COUNTERTOPS:

Hardwoods such as maple and oak are most often used for wooden countertops. The wood planks are arranged in a variety of designs like Butcher's Block, Joined Planks or Single Wide Stave. Wood is considered to be the most eco-friendly option for a kitchen countertop, as wood is a renewable resource.

Advantages:

Wood countertops can fit well into almost all kitchen designs - modern, sleek, and stylish, or roughed out for a rustic country theme;
They are very easy to install;
Wood has a natural mechanism that prevents the growth and buildup of bacteria;
Wood is easy to clean as it is smooth;
Wooden counters can be sanded to remove scratches and resealed.
Wood comes in a variety of colours, finishes and types of wood.

Disadvantages:

Wood can easily get damaged by impact, moisture, heat, and cold. It needs regular refinishing, cleaning with mineral oil, sanding and buffing;
Wood can easily get burnt and is a fire hazard
Wood countertops last about four to eight years at most, compared to stone countertops, which can last for decades. This is beacause wood naturally oxidizes with age.

7. STAINLESS STEEL COUNTERS:

Stainless steel countertops are kitchen countertops made of stainless steel. Also known as corrosion resistant steel, stainless steel is a metal alloy that contains around 10% chromium which gives it its stainless look. For a really contemporary and industrial look for your kitchen, stainless steel is a good choice.

Advantages:

It is durable and is highly heat resistant;
It does not crack;
It is non-porous and hence, resistant to stains and corrosion, is waterproof and easy-to-clean;
Stainless steel is flexible which enables it to be installed in all kinds of unique spaces;
It is easy to install and is generally installed as one solid piece;
It does not have grouts or joints which trap food, grease, dirt;
It adds to the appearance of the kitchen by giving it a sleek and modern look;
Stainless steel gently reflects light, which creates the illusion of a larger kitchen space;
Stainless steel sheets come in a variety of finishes, including quilted, non-directional, checkerboard, and a variety of diagonal designs.

Disadvantages:

It often shows scratches and can dent;
It can be quite noisy if not stabilized properly with a strong backing;
Food, grease and fingerprints all show very clearly, necessitating continual cleaning.
It is quite expensive.

8. SOAPSTONE COUNTERS:

Soapstone is a metamorphic rock that is made of talc, dolomite, magnesite, and chlorite. Talc gives soapstone a soft and soap-like texture. Soapstone is generally dark gray in color and is quite popular as a countertop and sink material because it is durable, heat resistant and stain proof.

Advantages:

It has a rich, deep, natural colour and a very smooth feel;
Soapstone is quite durable and does not crack easily;
Soapstone is stain resistant to a large extent;
Soapstone distributes the heat of hot pans evenly without causing burn marks.

Disadvantages:

Soapstone requires scheduled maintenance as it can crack and darken over time;
It needs to be coated with mineral oil several times a year to prevent discoloration and cracking;
Soapstone countertops may be difficult to replace if there are damages or cracks on the surface because each slab has its own unique pattern and shade;

9. MARBLE:

Marble is a metamorphic rock composed largely of calcite or dolomite available in different colors that result from differences in mineral content. It can be highly polished to create a very shiny and elegant surface. Marble requires constant maintenance, as it easily stains. However, some new sealers retard staining. But it does give a luxurious look.

Advantages:

Marble is a strong and durable material that can last for decades if properly cared for;
It does not crack or break easily;
It does not catch fire or burn, but if very hot pots are placed on it, the heat may change the colour of the marble permanently;
It looks beautiful and luxurious and can add elegance to the kitchen.

Disadvantages:

It is very expensive, though lower quality ones and marble tiles are cheaper;
It is quite porous and hence stains easily unless professionally sealed;
It can scratch;
It may need resealing periodically.

10. CONCRETE COUNTERS

If you have countertops in unusual shapes, concrete may be a good choice, as they're often cast right in your kitchen. Concrete countertops are structurally sound and also provide a decorative finish that resembles polished stone but at a lesser cost.

Advantages:

Concrete is heat resistant and will not burn if hot pots are placed on it.
It can be colour-tinted and looks exotic and unusual;
It is quite durable and can last for around 20 years;
Concrete is quite strong and can resist chipping, breaking and scratches;
Concrete is the best option for unusual shaped counters, since it is cast at site.

Disadvantages:

It can be expensive due to custom work;
It is porous but can be sealed.
Cracking is possible, but nowadays, new treatments eliminate cracking.

This post was about the 10 best materials for Kitchen Countertops. The vertical extension to a Kitchen countertop which protects the wall behind, from unintended splashes of water, oil and spills is called a Kitchen backsplash. Read more:

KITCHEN BACKSPLASH OPTIONS

KITCHENS | BACKSPLASH MATERIALS

noreply@blogger.com (Minu CP) — Sun, 18 Apr 2010 13:16:00 +0000

A Kitchen backsplash is a vertical extension to a kitchen counter which protects the wall from unintended splashes of water, oil and food. It also prevents spilled liquids from leaking behind the kitchen cabinets. A distinctive backsplash can also help a kitchen look great as it gives the room a finished quality.

A backsplash should be made of an easy-to-clean material, such as tiles, granite, Corian, Silestone, stainless steel, etc. As a rule, though, the same material used to make the counter is also used to make the backsplash.

KITCHEN BACKSPLASH OPTIONS:

While selecting a backsplash it is important to match it with the permanent fixtures in your kitchen, but not the appliances, since they will change over time. The most popular materials for kitchen backsplashes are ceramic or porcelain tiles, natural stone, glass, stainless steel or metal tiles. As an Architect I have recommended the 10 best materials for kitchen backsplashes along with their advantages and disadvantages, so that you can decide what you want when you do up your kitchen.

1. CERAMIC TILES: Ceramic tiles are undoubtedly the most versatile backsplash material by virtue of their sheer variety in colour, texture, shape, and size. I suggest that you keep it simple by choosing the same tile for your kitchen backsplash as you've chosen for the floor - but in a smaller size. You can have custom painted tiles to match any theme or design, just to add that dash of colour.

Advantages:

Budget-minded homeowners find ceramic tiles, considerably more affordable;
Glazed tiles are tough, durable, and easy to wipe off;
Wide variety of patterns, textures and designs available;
For that exclusive look, you can opt for specially hand-painted tiles;
When a kitchen mishap chips or breaks a tile or two, it's much easier and cheaper to replace the affected tiles than it would be for a slab of granite.

Disadvantages:

Too many joints and grout in a ceramic backsplash, which trap grease and dirt.
Ceramic tiles are not as smooth as steel or glass.
Since every single tile is hand-set, it is more labour-intensive and the final appearance depends on the skill of the layer.
Unglazed, porous tile in areas near the sink or stove absorb liquids and grime and are impossible to clean.

2. STAINLESS STEEL: Stainless steel backsplash which was preferred for long in restaurant kitchens is becoming popular in home kitchens because it can give your kitchen a modern streamlined look and is able to blend in well with stainless steel kitchen appliances like the stove, refrigerator, taps and dishwasher. Also it is sanitary.

Advantages:

It is resistant to stains and corrosion;
It is non-porous, waterproof and easy-to-clean;
It is durable and is highly heat resistant;
It is crack resistant;
Stainless steel is flexible which enables it to be installed in all kinds of unique spaces.
It is easy to install and is generally installed as one solid piece;
It does not have grouts or joints which trap food, grease, dirt;
It adds to the appearance of the kitchen by giving it a sleek and modern look;
Stainless gently reflects light, which creates the illusion of a larger kitchen space;
These sheets come in a variety of finishes, including quilted, non-directional, checkerboard, and a variety of diagonal designs.

Disadvantages:

It often shows scratches;
It can be dented;
It can be quite noisy if not stabilized properly with a strong backing;
Food, grease and fingerprints all show very clearly, necessitating continual cleaning.

3. METAL TILES: Kitchens feature many metals besides steel -- brass, copper, pewter, tin, and aluminum, to name a few. So metal backsplash is a good choice, especially because it is non-porous, water-proof and reflective. However before you go in for a long-term investment, think about the inherent advantages and disadvantages of the metals.

Advantages:

Brass and copper cast a nice glow;
Antique embossed tin looks great;
They are non-porous;
They are durable and waterproof;
Metals gently reflect light, which creates the illusion of a larger kitchen space.

Disadvantages:

Quite a chore to keep them clean;
All metal backsplashes except stainless steel, are high-maintenance;
They often shows scratches;
They can be dented;
They can be quite noisy if not stabilized properly with a strong backing;
Food, grease and fingerprints all show very clearly, necessitating continual cleaning.

4. GLASS BLOCKS: A very recent backsplash option that has garnered a lot of interest from designers and home owners is Glass blocks or solid-glass-sheet backsplashes. These are usually part of an exterior wall and let in natural light. Just like conventional windows, glassblock units must be set into adequately framed openings with load-bearing headers.

Advantages:

In modern kitchens, it offers a sleek backdrop to the counters, cabinets and appliances;
It looks good in contrast with stainless steel;
It lets in a lot of light;
It brings the outdoors inside.

Disadvantages:

It is more difficult to assemble and if the workmanship is not neat, it can spoil the interiors;
It is expensive to use glass or acrylic block since it requires framing and lintels.

5. GLASS TILES: A new design trend in kitchen backsplashes is glass which can add beauty to a kitchen and make it appear brighter. Textured glass tiles, frosted glass, back-painted glass, coloured glass are some of the options availablet. The panels may be glued to the wall or mounted with brackets. With clear and translucent panels it's especially important to ensure that no unsightly debris finds its way between the glass and the wall.

Glass tiles on the backsplash alternate between glossy and etched.

Advantages:

Glass tiles are not porous, so they resist mold, mildew and staining.
Glass reflects light, so they make the area look brighter and larger.
Glass tiles are more eco-friendly as it takes half the energy to produce a glass tile compared to a ceramic tile. You can also find glass tiles made of recycled glass;
A glass backsplash is also non-flammable;
Clear glass can be used to protect walls made of materials that should be protected from moisture and food splatters, e.g. antique bricks, vintage wood, or delicate wallpaper.

Disadvantages:

Glass tiles are more expensive than ceramic.
They can scratch, and the scratches may show.
Glass tiles are difficult to cut;
Glass can break and is unsuitable if there are young children.

6. GRANITE: Inspite of the cost, Granite is becoming popular for kitchen backsplashes along with countertops, because of its advantages.

Advantages:

It's diamond-like hardness;
It is impervious to extreme heat, ultraviolet light, acids and abrasions.
It adds elegance to a kitchen.
It is easy to clean and maintain.
It retains its shine and actually shines more with repated cleaning.

Disadvantages:

It is the only stone that has virtually no drawbacks, except that it is somewhat porous and requires annual or frequent maintenance with a penetrating sealer to deter stains.

7. MARBLE: Like Granite, Marble also adds elegance to a kitchen, and is quite popular as a kitchen backsplash. However it is not used much for kitchen countertops because it stains and is porous.

Advantages:

It gives a luxurious touch to the kitchen;
Since it is available in a wide range of lighter shades, it makes the kitchen look brighter.
It is easy to clean.
With repeted cleaning, it shines and sparkles.

Disadvantages:

It is soft and porous, requiring regular waxing and sealing.
It takes stains like turmeric;
It is not very heat resistant;
It gets discoloured when exposed to citric acids (lime and lemon juices).
While not ideal as countertop material, it is fine for backsplashes if not located near a heat source,

8. ENGINEERED STONE: with 94% quartz and 6% high-performance polymers is suitable for a wide range of domestic, commercial and industrial applications.,

Advantages:

Engineered stone is extremely durable and resistant to fractures and any kind of damage. If taken care of properly, an engineered stone backsplash can last for decades.
It is more flexible and easier to install, handle, and maintain.
An engineered stone backsplash is resistant to scratches from pointed objects like stainless steel knives, mugs, ceramic pots, etc.
Engineered stone can resist heat from hot surfaces like plates and pots.
An engineered stone backsplash is easy to maintain and clean.
Its non-porous surface makes its high-polished luster last for years. Because of the non-porous surface, it does not harbor the growth of mold, mildew, and bacteria and can also resist stains caused by oil, wine, acids, soda, and common household cleaning products.
Unlike granite, it does not need sealing.
Engineered stone has a wide variety of colors and patterns to choose from. Some patterns imitate the real thing, while others come in pastel colors.

Disadvantages:

An engineered stone backsplash does not look natural in terms of color, pattern variations, aesthetic beauty.
Because an engineered stone countertop is usually by the slab, the seams can be visible.

9. SLATE:Slate is a fine-grained metamorphic rock that is derived from sediments of clay and fine silt. Being unique in appearance, its assured that no two countertops will be the same. Also, the character and permanence of slate allows it to fit into either a traditional design or a modern kitchen scheme.

Advantages:

Slate is durable and strong.
Slate has low-porosity and hence has a low absorption rate.
It does not take stains.
It is heat resistant.
A slate backsplash is easy to install and almost maintenance free, once in place.
Slate is usually available in earthy tones such as greys, reds, and greens.

Disadvantages:

The colours are generally light to dark gray with red, green, and purple stones mixed in. Many people feel restricted by the colour choice.
Slate is heavy like other stones and so requires special tools and materials for installation.

10. SOAPSTONE: Soapstone is a metamorphosed stone that feels "soapy". It is ideal for a backsplash because of it's advantages:

Advantages:

Just like granite and marble, soapstone is durable and does not crack easily.
Soapstone does not stain easily and does not discolor when acidic substances like wine and vinegar are accidentally spilled on it.
Soapstone is an excellent retainer of heat - The heat is evenly distributed throughout the surface.
It is non-porous and smooth.
Soapstone comes in various colors and textures that gives you the freedom to choose the style you want.

Disadvantages:

Because it is made of natural materials, soapstone backsplash requires scheduled maintenance.
Soapstone needs to be coated with mineral oil several times a year to prevent discoloration and cracking.
Soapstone backsplash may be difficult to replace if there are damages or cracks on the surface. Since each slab has its own unique pattern and shade, it may be a bit difficult to find a slab that would match the ones on the countertop.
Soapstone can scratch, so while it isn’t commonly used for countertops, it can make a lovely backsplash.
Similarly, regular limestone has limited countertop use, but may be considered for backsplashes.

Now that you have read about the advantages and disadvantages of the different backsplash materials, it becomes easier for you to finalise the material, that best suits your house. Read about the best Kitchen Countertop materials, here:

KITCHENS | COUNTERTOP MATERIALS

LAMPS | LIGHT EMITTING DIODE (LED)

noreply@blogger.com (Minu CP) — Thu, 08 Apr 2010 06:27:00 +0000

A light-emitting-diode (LED) is a semiconductor diode that emits light when an electric current is applied in the forward direction of the device, from the anode to the cathode. LEDs are widely used as indicator lights on electronic devices and increasingly in higher power applications such as flashlights and area lighting. An LED is usually a small (less than 1 mm) light source. The color of the emitted light depends on the composition and condition of the semiconducting material used, and can be infrared, visible, or ultraviolet.

LEDs used in a chandelier for a residence.

ADVANTAGES-

Efficiency: LEDs produce more light per watt, at close to 100 lumens per watt; this is useful in battery powered or energy-saving devices.
Colour: LEDs can emit light of an intended colour without the use of colour filters that traditional lighting methods require. This is more efficient and can lower initial costs.
On/Off time: LEDs light up very quickly. A typical indicator LED will achieve full brightness in microseconds.
Cycling: LEDs are ideal for use in applications that are subject to frequent on-off cycling, unlike fluorescent lamps that burn out more quickly when cycled frequently, Halide lamps that require a long time before restarting.
Dimming: LEDs can very easily be dimmed either by modulation or lowering the forward current.
Cool light: In contrast to most light sources, LEDs radiate very little heat in the form of infra red that can cause damage to sensitive objects or fabrics. Wasted energy is dispersed as heat through the base of the LED.
Slow failure: LEDs mostly fail by dimming over time, unlike the abrupt burn-out of incandescent bulbs.
Lifetime: LEDs can have a relatively long useful life. One report estimates 35,000 to 50,000 hours of useful life.
Shock resistance: LEDs, being solid state components, are difficult to damage with external shock, unlike fluorescent and incandescent bulbs which are fragile.
Focus: The solid package of the LED can be designed to focus its light, the light can be collimated and lensed to any angle. Incandescent and fluorescent sources often require an external reflector to collect light and direct it in a usable manner.
Disposabilty: LEDs do not contain mercury and can be easily disposed.
Size: LEDs can be very small -just a cubic millimetre and can be packed into small spaces.

Mult Color Changing RBG 100 LED Christmas Light string 2021

DISADVANTAGES-

High price: LEDs are currently more expensive, price per lumen, on an initial capital cost basis, than most conventional lighting technologies. The additional expense partially stems from the relatively low lumen output and the fact that technology is growing very rapidly and huge investments have been made in development with very little time to recover these costs.
Temperature dependence: LED performance largely depends on the ambient temperature of the operating environment. Over-driving the LED in high ambient temperatures may result in overheating of the LED package, eventually leading to device failure. This is especially important when considering automotive, medical, and military applications where the device must operate over a large range of temperatures, and is required to have a low failure rate.
Voltage sensitivity: LEDs must be supplied with the voltage above the threshold and a current below the rating. This can involve series resistors or current-regulated power supplies.
Light quality: Most cool-white LEDs have spectra that differ significantly from the sun or an incandescent light. This can cause the color of objects to be perceived differently under cool-white LED illumination than under sunlight or incandescent sources. However, the color rendering properties of common fluorescent lamps are often inferior to what is now available in state-of-art white LEDs.
Blue Hazard: There is increasing concern that blue LEDs and cool-white LEDs are now capable of exceeding safe limits of the so-called blue-light hazard as defined in eye safety specifications.
Blue pollution: Because cool-white LEDs emit much more blue light than conventional outdoor light sources such as sodium lamps, the strong wavelength dependence of Rayleigh scattering means that cool-white LEDs can cause more light pollution than other light sources.

Acne 415 Blue Light Therapy 38 LED Bulb ONLY! 415nm
USAGE:
As a result of the new developments in LED technology, suddenly from being the humble indicator on the microwave, stereo or washing machine, they are everywhere -

Lighting homes.
In cinemas, discos, malls,
For signage, traffic lights.
In torches, medical instruments, cellphones, watches etc.
For lighting buildings.
In giant TV screens. The list is endless.

Because of the advantages, LEDs hold a theoretical promise that these devices could actually come close to achieving eternal life, converting each watt of electrical energy into pure white light - no infra-red, ultra-violet, no heat, no X-rays. The energy savings will be huge and 50 years on you will still be using the same LED!

Since it is aparent that the LEDs are the future of lighting, huge investments have been made in the development of LED technology. And the result, is the 'Geobulb'.

GEOBULB 3, LED LIGHT BULB, WARM WHITE

The GeoBulb is an LED bulb that has been created to replace the normal incandescent bulbs. It supposedly has a 30,000 hour lifespan (which is nearly 10 years), uses only 8w to produce the light of a 60w incandescent, gives out 40% less heat than a CFL and 89% less heat than an incandescent, contains no mercury and instantly lights up on turning it on. This is indeed the future of lighting. Right now, it is priced high, but the prices are sure to come down with time.

With the rapid progress made in LED technology, the flaws are sure to be corrected, and the LED bulb or LED fluorescent tubelight will replace all the existing incandescent bulbs and Fluorescent tubelights. Read about them here:

LAMPS | SODIUM VAPOUR LAMPS

noreply@blogger.com (Minu CP) — Thu, 08 Apr 2010 05:15:00 +0000

Different types of sodium vapour lamps

Like in a Metal Halide lamp, the working principle of a Sodium Vapour lamp is that of a gas-discharge tube, but in this case, the discharge takes place through a tube with a small quantity of sodium-neon-argon (SOX lamp) or mercury-sodium amalgam (SON lamp). Unfortunately, It has very limited colour rendering properties, as it produces monochromatic deep yellow colour light only. Of the two versions, the SOX is more efficient, but the SON lamp has found better acceptance as it has slightly better colour rendition properties.

ADVANTAGES-

Efficiency: Sodium Vapour Lamps are very efficient, turning one watt of power into a whopping 200lumens! Compare this with the 12 lumens per watt of an incandescent bulb, or the 60 lumens per watt of a CFL, or the 90 lumens per watt of FTL.

Life: They have a very long life of 20,000 hours, compared to the 1000 hours of an incandescent bulb.

Light Colour: The monochromatic deep yellow wavelength light produced by the sodium vapour lamp is the 'photopic' range- in which humans see best. Hence the vision even in foggy and dusty conditions is excellent in this light.

The yellow light emitted by Sodium vapour lamps

DISADVANTAGES-

Colour rendering: The colour rendition properties are not comparable to the other lamps- the white SON lamp has a Ra value of 80 while the SOX has a Ra of just 20 which is way below that of an Incandescent (Ra -100).

Disposal: Like in all discharge lamps, the Sodium Vapour Lamps contain mercury and need to be disposed carefully.

USAGE:

Road lights use Sodium vapour lamps

Road lighting: Due to the long life, efficient energy usage and excellent vision, the sodium vapour lamps are the ideal choice for road lighting.
Monument illumination: They are also suitable for monument illumination, particularly those made of stone masonry of orange hue.
Indoor applications: Since these lamps produce monochromatic colour, they are unsuitable for indoor applications.
Eco-friendly: However they find continued patronage among environmentally sensitive users, due to their efficiency and long life.

With advanced technology, new, hi-power LED street lighting is threatening to replace the existing Sodium Vapour lamps as it gives a nice white light and energy saving of over 50%.Read more:

LAMPS | LED (Light Emitting Diode)