And, if you’re like any homeowner or investment property (rental property) with the usual run-of-the-mill stuff that needs to be fixed around the house … you will.

Anything that can make the your situation easier is what’s intended. But it does work both ways. Speaking from the perspective of the handyman, repairman, sub contractor, or whatever label best fits the person that actually does the work for you, you’re willingness to work with him/her  should result in a long-lasting relationship which can be mutually beneficial for all concerned. As long as that person is capable if doing what’s asked of them, it can certainly be less stressful for you, the home owner.

‘ … A Good HandyMan is Hard to Find …’

Well, with apologies to Flannery O’Connor, not really.  Like anything else, a little persistence will help you find what you’re looking for. And with further apologies to Mr. Potato Head, you want to arm yourself with info to avoid hiring someone that would remind you of said friend (pictured here).

A great place to start is your own personal network. Ask family and friends, co-workers, former classmates, people at your local church, eatery, neighborhood bar, wherever people are, ask them.  Besides the obvious Yellow Pages and internet listings, you can always get good handyman references at hardware stores and paint supply stores. Even the big-box chains (HomeDepot/Lowes) might be a nice place to look. You are sure to find someone who can recommend a reliable, honest handyman.

Once you find that person, contact them and set up time for them to come over to your house and look at what you want done. Don’t be too specific as you just want them to be at you residence in person so you can see for your self if this person is someone you’ll want to have work for you. Remember, he (or she) will be in your house, working around your things, so they will have to be very trustworthy.

Some Things to Ask For When Selecting a Handyman

• Places to go see completed work (usually for bigger jobs)
• References from other reliable sources
• Do they have adequate insurance (by adequate we mean sufficient liability insurance – usually $500 to $1 million in coverage), and have they ever had any accidents on the job
• Note if the person’s vehicle is in reasonable shape – may seem odd to do this at first – but it does give you somewhat of an idea of the type of handyman you’re allowing into your home

How to Keep That Good Handyman Around for Future Work

O.K. – once you’ve found a good handyman (sub contractor, repairman, etc.), you’ll want to hold onto this person for the repair problem in your house that will inevitably present itself (and usually at the most inconvenient time). Treat this person with respect. If he or she gives you a price to do something that you think may seem to be a bit out of line, ask him why the price seems high. If the explanation seems reasonable, by all means pay their price. Try to stay away from the urge to haggle over every single job as if your life depends on it. If you do try to get the lower price all the time, the good handyman will soon catch onto your ‘game’, and in most cases refuse to do anything for you at any price. Especially if you continually argue over an extra $10 here or an additional $15 there.

Trust me when I say that after that job is done, you will probably never hear from that handyman again. And really who would blame them. Remember, these people who choose to work in other peoples homes for a living have to pay the same bills that you do with things such as gas, mortgages, food, utilities, you name it. In other words, they have to earn a living just like you do. Oh, and one other thing, that liability insurance that is so highly recommended (for all parties involved) is not cheap either.

Things to Keep In Mind When Dealing With A Good Handyman

Be courteous. Treat them with the respect they deserve, and you’ll get the same in return.
Pay him or her on time when the job is done, and done to your satisfaction – don’t wait a week or two later (unless agreed upon earlier)
Recommend them to others if the work is done really well and reasonably priced.

Remember Mr/Ms Homeowner, it’s not always about you. The person crawling under your floor in the dank, dark crawlspace looking for that pesky floor creak that just won’t go away, or up on the roof inspecting your vents in the hot noonday sun simply wants the same basic courtesy and respect that you yourself demand in your everyday work (or play) life.

Oh, and if you offer him or her a soft drink on a hot summer day … well, you probably just scored a lot of brownie points toward that next repair job from your favorite handyman

Simply do the following:

1. Remove the rotted, worn out hardwood flooring, and thoroughly clean the area.
2. Level subfloor using floor leveler
3. Install finished pieces of hardwood strips (see ‘Finishing Wood Strips‘ below). Use 2″ by 1/4″ oak strips for flooring. Also comes in other types of wood such as ash, maple, etc. If piece is too wide …
4. Trim back using table saw.
5. Fill any gaps or cracks surrounding your repair area – not between the wood strips.
6. Clean area.

Your efforts will result in a nice wood floor repair such as the one pictured. Keep in mind that in some cases, you’re simply trying to match the old stain as best you can. Add as many coats of stain as you think you need to in order better match a dark color. Just don’t spend too much time on matching color.

Finishing Wood Strips for Wood Floor Repair

Wipe the wood strip completely clean with a dry cloth. Apply stain, and then let dry. Since the strip comes smooth right off the store shelf, there is no need to seal it. Simply apply stain, however many coats are necessary to attain desired (dark or light) shading of color to match original.

Then …

• Lightly sand any residue left behind by staining
• Apply polyurethane (gloss, semi-gloss, or satin), and let dry
• Cut wood floor repair piece to desired length, and install

Note: You may have to trim off a slight part of the edge of your strip. No more than an eight of an inch. Measure how wide the original is, and trim back new piece(s) with table saw for precise cut.

It really is not very hard to get the desired effect when you want to fix any old damaged spots in your hardwood flooring. Minor wood floor repair is easy when you get used to doing the basics with a little practice, and a little patience.

If you are considering a project that requires a whole house renovation, you should realistically look at it from the standpoint of virtually rebuilding the entire house – from the inside out.

In some cases, total rehab may be the only reasonable approach toward a successful flip. You simply should not look at this type of renovation as a quick fix, either time-wise, or money spent.

Rehab Details

Interior

• Make sure you have proper liability insurance coverage for the house.
• Building permit. Most states require some sort of permit to build or alter (remove) any interior wall within a residential or commercial building. If you fail to get a permit, it will result in work stoppage, and possible penalties in the form of fines.
• When you actually start your whole house renovation, secure a large dumpster to remove all of your refuse material.
• Some required demolition will allow you to work outward from the exposed framing studs much more easily and efficiently.
• Perform any required framing at this point.
• Line up experienced, professional mechanical (plumbing, electrical, HVAC) contractors who are comfortable with any type housing, especially older homes. It makes good sense to use professional sub-contractors such as these, because they offer a guarantee on parts and labor. Not only that, but they probably carry more than enough liability and worker’s comp insurance. It’s always a good idea to ask for proof of insurance up front. Same for guarantees of workmanship and components. Always get it in writing.
• Install new windows if necessary.
• Add wall and attic insulation at this point.
• Hang and finish drywall
• Install trim work and doors.
• Prime and paint all ceilings, walls, trim work and doors.

Tip:  When painting the doors, trim work, baseboards, etc., remove all hardware such as doorknobs, strike plates, door stops, window locks, and the like. Takes a little extra time to do but well worth it when you consider that careless work reflects badly on your overall project image, especially if it’s an expensive remodel.

Please visit our Remodeling Tips page for more subtle, yet essential remodeling finishing touches.

• Install any cabinetry in the bathroom and kitchen.
• Install flooring.
• Take care of hardware installation throughout the house such as doorknobs, door stops, window locks, cabinet pulls, and bathroom hardware (towel racks, paper dispenser).
• Do any and all final clean.

Exterior

• Take care of siding and gutter issues along with exterior painting of trim, sofit, and siding if necessary..
• Take notice of the condition of roof and gutters. Replace if necessary.
• Install simple, yet attractive landscaping.

These are basic details HFH considers to be important when attempting to complete a whole house renovation. And again, remember that when you hire a sub contractor such as a plumber, a painter, or a drywall installer and finisher, always ask for proof of insurance, and any guarantees that they may have for workmanship and materials.

See also …

If you want to successfully manage the project yourself, please go to our Remodeling Guide page for more detailed information.

Do-It-Yourself

If you plan on performing the demo work yourself, you will need to do some planning for a safe and legal demolition process. Suffice it to say that this is hard, dirty work that’s not for the easily discouraged. Small job? Do it yourself. But if you have a larger remodel, hire someone else to do it.

Before dropping a dumpster somewhere it shouldn’t be, however, check to see if you first need to get a dumpster permit for your site. Some areas require a demolition permit if your project happens to be near, or in the public right-of-way. In other words, any falling debris that can inhibit or endanger any vehicular or pedestrian traffic, you have to get an O.K. from the local officials to drop said dumpster.

Kind of a hassle, but makes perfect sense nonetheless, especially if you are renovating a building within a city block sitting right on a street. You would be required to keep the area safe and clean at all times.

Doing The Dirty Work

Typically, in older homes built in the 1800′s and early 1900′s, you have thick, heavy plaster on the walls that generally are supported by strips of quarter-inch thick wood (called lathe) that run horizontally along the space of the wall that form the support structure to hold the plaster (see picture).

As you can imagine, you will generate a large amount of rather thick, filthy dust that you will have to deal with. As you tear out the old stuff, always sweep up enough to fill about 2 five-gallon bucket’s worth of material, and throw in dumpster.

This will keep you somewhat fresh from tiring out too early hauling a heavy wheel barrow full of debris that would definitely wear you out in a hurry!

Keep It Safe

Always wear protective eyewear, goggles, leather gloves and hard hat when tearing out old plaster (or anything for that matter). This stuff is heavy and thick. You’ll know it soon enough during whole house demolition if you’re not wearing a hard hat and a chunk falls and conks you on the head.

Probably the most important piece of protective wear is the ventilator mask to put over your face to keep you from inhaling the dust and fine particles filling the air around you. Any mask will do, but we recommend spending a few more dollars for the really good masks. They may take a little bit to get used to, but in the end are very effective.

Wear long-sleeve shirts and long pants as well to protect your arms and legs.

Tools

You’ll be using a wrecking bar ang sledge hammer to remove all the old lathe and plaster.

A sawzall is also effective for cutting out whole pieces of lumber and other structures that need to come out without spending a lot of time.

An excellent push broom and plenty of 3-mil thick plastic garbage bags (usually referred to “Contractor” bags) are essential to keeping the area swept and clean.

Speaking of Dumpsters …

You should have on site a 30-yard size container to handle all the debris you’ll generate. For a normal 1250 square foot home, you can expect to haul away about 2 – 3 full (30 yard) dumpsters of stuff.

This assumes you’re throwing out all the walls, ceilings, old trimwork/doors, cabinets, and old toilet fixtures.

In other words, pretty much everything.

Update

Always check with the dumpster company before you start your demo to see what you can, and cannot safely haul away. You can’t, for instance, have a refrigerator hauled away if it’s got refrigerant still in it, due to environmental concerns. Same goes for ordinary tires, although some areas will allow you to get rid of a few at a time.

Also … check out my dumpsters page for more detailed information on renting, and different types and sizes for whole house demolition.

Hire It Out

Of course you could always hire someone to perform the demo instead of doing it yourself. You will spend somewhere in the neighborhood of $2500 to $5000 to have this process done by properly insured contractors who specialize in whole house demolition and debris removal. Prices will vary depending upon the size and scope of the actual demolition.

From this …

To this …

It’s safe and effective because of the fact that there is no dust released into the air. This in turn can be extremely beneficial to someone who is allergic to dust in general, and will permit them to safely do minor drywall repairs within the household.

It is also beneficial in that since there is no dust that is released in the air, there will be no dusty surfaces to clean up after.

Keys To Proper Wet Sanding Technique

• Use a sponge specifically designed for dust-free sanding and wiping drywall when wet. It is typically slightly larger than your usual kitchen sponge. It has an abrasive (for rough sanding) surface on one side, and a typical spongy/porous surface on the other side.
• Dampen the sponge only. Don’t sand when dripping wet. This will only foul up the layer of mud on the patch, and might lead to some rework.
• Wring out the sponge often. If you don’t, you will be simply slopping wet joint compound around in circles on the patch job.

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With this method done properly, the result will be every bit as good and smooth as any dry-block job, but with no dust to breathe – or clean up. Just as with anything else, the more you do something, the better you’ll get. Recommended for smaller repairs.

This type of sanding sponge can be purchased at any home improvement or local hardware store.

Here’s a great vinyl floor repair solution for small-to-medium-sized areas involving torn or separated vinyl in the existing floor covering.

The Problem

If you’ve ever had to remove worn-out bathroom vanity or kitchen cabinets, you’ve no doubt seen what could possibly result from
doing just such a thing. Because of the difference in cabinet sizes (that vary among some manufacturers), you could install a cabinet
that is smaller than the original, leaving a gap showing between your new cabinet base, and the existing vinyl surrounding it.

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Another possible scenario is that over time, some small rips have begun to develop that would need to be addressed before it gets too big.

If existing floor covering is in good overall shape (as is with floor pictured), removing the old floor, and installing a new one just wouldn’t make
sense given the time and expense. For this type of vinyl floor repair option, use ceramic tile.

The Solution

Use ceramic tile pieces to repair and finish the rough and damaged edges of your existing vinyl.

Do the following steps:

Measure Tile width
Measure about a quarter-inch less of the total width of the tile for when you trim back damaged vinyl. You will also
want to set your tile piece around an 1/8″ off the cabinet kick plate (edge), so keep that in mind when doing the trim work.

In other words, the finished tile will be set an 1/8″ off the cabinet edge, while sitting on top of approximately a half-inch of remaining vinyl.

Trim Vinyl
As stated above,trim back the damaged areas enough to allow the tile to comfortably rest just over the cleaned-up edge of the vinyl.

Tile Starting Point
If a corner is involved, cut tile pieces (diagonally) for your corner first, and work outwards toward each wall
(as pictured). This will allow for an even, consistent look to the lay of the tiles.

(To cut the tiles, a used a simple wet saw that cost around $90)

Lay Tiles
I spread mortar out for no more than three tiles at a time. I don’t like to get too far ahead with spreading mortar because it
starts to set-up right out of the can, which can then become hard to work with. I just do enough to set two or three tiles, and then spread some more as needed.

Let Dry
I like to let the tiles dry for 48 hours in a well-heated space. I prefer to really let them set-up and firmly anchor to the floor
before grouting.

Apply Grout
Apply grout to the tiles, and wipe away excess haze with a sponge and clean water. Be sure to apply grout to the outside edge to
specifically ensure no moisture would enter from the outer edge, and end up getting under the tile and vinyl.

Clean Tiles
With a clean wet rag, wipe away any remaining grout haze that will inevitably be present. Let the grout dry for a little bit
(half hour to an hour) before your final rinse.

Once you’re through with your vinyl floor repair, you’ll see that not only did you save your floor from further damage, but you also saved yourself a
few hundred dollars with removing the old floor and replacing it with new vinyl.

Plus, it looks pretty good too! (See for yourself)

Total Expenditure

The total expense for this particular job was the cost of the material (tiles, pre-mixed mortar, sanded grout), which came to about
$40 for everything.

I had about 3 hours of my personal time involved including the purchase of materials as well as the actual labor involved.

Peel ‘n Stick
This cheap and easy-to-install option allows for decent flooring for not a lot of money.

The drawback of this type of floor covering is that it can deteriorate faster if in a heavy traffic area such as a kitchen, or in a moisture-laden environment such as bathroom. Other factors such as poor room ventilation and improper installation can lead to quick tile deterioration as well (See kitchen floor replacement below).

Expect vinyl floor costs to be around 40¢ to 50¢ per sq.ft.

Vinyl Tiles
An Excellent option in that you get commercial quality without sacrificing a lot of money. Tile sizes generally come in 12″ x 12″, or 18″ x 18″ pieces. Colors generally come in a neutral shade of beige or light tan that can blend with many different types of decor/design. With a comparatively easy installation process, products such as Armstrong vinyl tile provide quality flooring option at an affordable price.

The 12″ x 12″ tile comes packaged with 40 pieces per container, at a cost of about $32 per container, or 80¢ per sq.ft.

Vinyl Sheets
Vinyl sheeting comes in sizes ranging from 6′ to 12′ wide. This option provides more of a stable, sturdy type of vinyl floor as compared to the peel ‘n stick option, but for more money.Very tough, scratch and stain resistant models are available that can stand up to most abuse in any surrounding. Excellent for families with young kids and pets. Vinyl floor costs can range from $2 to $4 on the low end, on up to $15 to $20 per sq.yd. on the upper end.

Installation Costs

Professional installers generally estimate by the square yard, as opposed to by the square foot. This situation can be remedied, however, with some simple arithmetic.

Take your total square footage (length x width of room), and divide that number by nine. That will give you the what that space equals in square yards (with a square yard equaling 3 sq. ft.)

Average vinyl floor costs for installation is around $4 to $6 per square yard.

(Confused yet? That’s O.K. considering that you’re reading a lot of “square this”, and “square that”! Just stay with us a little longer)

Using the original example of our 12′x 15″ kitchen floor replacement, we can see that we have a total of 180 sq. ft., or 20 sq.yds. Using an average of $5 for vinyl installation, we get a price of $100 ($5 times 20 square yards). If we add in the price of the material and any extra floor prep, we will have total vinyl floor costs.

Speaking of Floor Prep …

some clarification is in order to understand just what exactly may need to happen to get the floor ready to install the vinyl in the first place.

Many times floors in the kitchen, and especially the bathroom have to be torn-out, and replaced entirely due to any rotted or weakened wood sub-flooring. Once that is done, a smooth-surface type of covering such as luan will be installed, with a final light skim coat of floor leveler to even-out any minor indentations or nicks and scratches. This procedure is usually extra, with the price determined by the amount of work to be done, plus the cost of materials.

Example of replacing deteriorated vinyl squares:

After removing the old floor, it was determined that the one layer of vinyl beneath the top layer of peel ‘n stick floor was sound (tightly glued to the floor).

Armstrong vinyl tile was installed after some minor skim coat of floor-leveler was applied.

The result is a beautiful new floor.

Total demo and installation time was approximately 5 hours, with total vinyl floor costs being approximately $100 (Materials: 2.5 boxes of tile, and 2 pints of adhesive)

For you do-it-yourself types, be sure to take proper care with all aspects of installation with such things as:

• Proper floor prep ensuring a smooth, dry sub-floor surface
• Consistent application of adhesive to tile, and, in the case of peel ‘n stick vinyl, proper pressure applied to tiles when installed. Individual tiles can slip over time, causing a noticeable separation. This, in turn, will lead to the slipping and overlapping of other tiles, which can ultimately result in floor (and sub-floor) deterioration.

Bottom Line of Vinyl Floor Costs

Using our 12′ x 15′ kitchen floor replacement example from above, we can determine vinyl floor costs for all three vinyl options, either by the square foot, or by the square yard:

Peel ‘n Stick (12″) – Material cost = $72 using per square foot (180 pieces x 40¢ each)

Or by the square yard (1 sq. yd. = 9 pieces @ 40¢ x 20 sq.yds.)

Vinyl Tile (12″) – Material cost will be $144 Either by the square foot (180 pieces x 80¢) Or by the square yard (1 sq. yd. = 9 pieces @ 80¢ x 20 sq.yds.)

Vinyl Sheet – Material cost (using an average cost of $10/sq.yd.) will be $200 Either by the square foot (180 sq. ft. x $1.11) Or by the square yard (1 sq.yd. costs $10)

Installation Tips

In many older homes, you’re likely to see old, worn-out vinyl piled on top of more old vinyl, resulting in the following replacement scenarios:

• A spongy-feel when you walk on it because of many layers of flooring
• A ripple effect (kind of the same principle at work as in carpet ripples)
• Excessive separation of old vinyl from proceeding layer(s)

Address this type of situation with a total floor replacement starting with the tear-out of all old vinyl. Repair any sub-floor issues, and install new vinyl. Even for a small bathroom, total replacement vinyl floor costs could be $150 to $200, but well worth the money.

There should never be anymore than two layers of vinyl flooring installed at any one time, as that would ensure a faster deterioration of any new vinyl you might install.

Communicate to your installer to rip the old stuff out, repair any sub-flooring problems you might encounter, and then after proper floor prep, install new vinyl. This is especially true of older homes because you just won’t know the condition of the sub floor to see if it’s stable or not until you remove the older stuff first. If the floor seems to be solid, and in good shape, you can probably lay another layer over the existing (one layer only) layer of vinyl.

Ask the installer to make sure the existing vinyl is firmly glued to the sub-floor, as you would not want loose flaps of vinyl to not adhere correctly with the new flooring.

Also, be sure to mention to the installer that you want the metal finishing strips (gripper) set as well. Request that this be done, as he won’t automatically do this step.

These metal strips come in gold and silver color at 12′ lengths, and cost around $8 per piece.

Also …
For a great solution for small-to-medium-sized rips in your existing vinyl floor, see my page on a really good vinyl floor repair alternative.

As stated before, there are a few generally accepted ways to deal with a contractor for purposes of managing your remodeling project. You can hire a general contractor to basically handle the job themselves from start to finish. Or, you could be the ‘GC’, and manage the job yourself.

If you are selecting a general contractor to completely supervise your project, consider these options:

Lump-Sum Contract
This is when a remodeling contractor charges one base price for the total job, from beginning to end. He is responsible for all aspects of the job, including obtaining and payment for all materials, installation, and total labor costs. The total price will generally include a mark-up of anywhere from 15% to 25%. You will make payments (draws) to him at various times during the remodel. Hold the last draw (5%) until everything is completed to your satisfaction.

Cost-Plus
Another popular type of agreement when selecting a general contractor, as this is when a contractor is paid to manage the job only. He will break down all sub-contractor, materials, and any other costs associated with the project. You then pay for all materials and their subsequent delivery, and all labor costs (to the GC). When the job is completed, you then pay him an agreed-upon management fee for his time. Excellent for keeping track of all total costs, and how dollars are being spent.

When hiring sub-contractors such as electricians, plumbers, framers, etc., consider one of the following options:

Time-and-Materials
This pertains to the type where the contractor is expected to provide the labor and materials. Small contractors like to employ this type because of the flexibility with which they can determine the time the job would actually take. If it’s just a one, or two-man operation, he can then more accurately assess his hourly rate, which in turn, helps you have more precise costs for your budget. His mark-up (if any), is generally included in the hourly rate.

Make sure to ask that the hourly rate (or total labor charge) is the final cost for his services. In other words, there are no extra fees or surcharges added on upon completion of the job.

Hourly Rate
This is probably the most popular choice when selecting a sub-contractor. You agree to an overall hourly rate (in most cases he will already have a standard rate), and also agree to cover all material costs as well. Also ask him to give you a reasonable estimate of total time (labor) involved for all necessary installation, both rough and finish stages, and a materials list (including cost of delivery) and when he will need those items delivered.

In this option, you get more control over how the money is spent, and where it’s going. Highly efficient for management, and budgeting purposes.

Again, as was the case in Time-and-Materials type of contract, make sure the hourly rate includes any mark-up (it should be included) he might require. You just don’t want any surprise charges and fees added on at the end of the job.

Well, times have changed so much so, that there are many types of fillers for highly specific applications. Sealants to retard fire, insects, mold, water, you name it, it’s probably out there.

Basic Caulks

For our purposes, we would like to examine the basic types of caulk that will be used for general renovation procedures such as filling gaps as a result of trim installation, sealing windows and door frames from the elements, filling cracks and gaps from normal wear and tear, etc.

The first and probably most common all-purpose filler, is the latex painter’s caulk used for all sorts of filling and sealing applications. This filler can be used in many areas, most common being to ‘smooth out’, or finish something that has been repaired or installed.

Using the example of filling small gaps left after new (or repaired) trim installation, you can see how it fills any slight gap to a smooth, consistent finish.

Another example is to apply caulk to the corner of a wall that has some plaster irregularities, or finish coat blemishes that make it look rough and unfinished. By applying a generous bead to the wall corner, you smooth over the blemishes for a finished look.

The great thing about latex caulk is that it is a water-based filler, meaning that it can be washed off with water for easy clean up.

Protection From Moisture and the Elements

Another basic type of sealer is that of silicone.

Use 100% silicone to form an impenetrable seal from moisture and the elements for maximum protection. A slightly less expensive (and messy) sealer is an acrylic latex/silicone blend that provides excellent sealing capabilities and long-lasting protection.

The areas to use these types of sealers are:

• Bathroom – particularly around the bath tub or shower, toilet (at floor), and around the sink/countertop backsplash
• Around kitchen countertops and backsplashes
• Exterior windows and doors
• Laundry room – sealing the joint where the baseboard trimwork meets the surface of the floor

Many people prefer to use a tub shower enclosure because of overall cost effectiveness, ease of installation, and general good looks. It is a smart choice for any level or size of bathroom renovation.

The one-piece design allows for installation right to the stud framing, and the floor bottom of the fixture itself is slightly raised to accommodate for easier plumbing connection. After the enclosure is set into place, you would install and finish with drywall. These types of fixtures are generally made of fiberglass (acrylic) with a satin or high-gloss finish.

Prices start at around an average in the range of $275 to $350, and go up from that point for higher-quality models.