A & A COMPLETE AUTO REPAIR HOUSTON

Understanding Your Cars Fuel System

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Mon, 30 Dec 2013 19:16:00 +0000

The fuel system feed your engine the gasoline/diesel it needs to run. If anyone of the parts in the system break down your engine will not run. Let's look at the major parts of the fuel system:

Fuel tank: Basically a holding tank for your fuel. When you fill up at a gas station the gas travels down the filler tube and into the tank. In the tank there is a sending unit, which tells the gas gauge how much gas is in the tank.

Fuel pump: On newer cars the fuel pump is usually installed in the fuel tank. Older cars have the fuel pump attached to the engine or on the frame rail between the tank and the engine. If the pump is in the tank or on the frame rail then it is electric and is run by your cars battery. Fuel pumps mounted to the engine use the motion of the engine to pump the fuel.

Fuel filter: Clean fuel is critical to engine life and performance. Fuel injectors have tiny openings, which clog easily so filtering the fuel is the only way to prevent this. Filters can be before or after the fuel pump, sometimes both.

Fuel injectors: Most domestic cars after 1986 and earlier foreign cars came from the factory with fuel injection. Instead of a carburetor to mix the fuel and air, a computer controls when the fuel injectors open to let fuel into the engine. This has resulted in lower emissions and better fuel economy. The fuel injector is basically a tiny electric valve, which opens and closes with an electric signal. In the picture below you can see the injectors towards the outer part of the intake. By injecting the fuel close to the cylinder head the fuel stays atomized ( in tiny particles ) so it will burn better when ignited by the spark plug.

Carburetors: A carburetor takes the fuel and mixes it with air without computer intervention. While simple in operation, they tend to need frequent tuning and rebuilding. This is why most newer cars have done away with carburetors in favor of fuel injection.

Common Problems:

The most common problem is a clogged fuel filter. Make sure you follow your manufacturers recommendations as to when you should change the fuel filter. This information should be in your owner's manual. Symptoms include sputtering at high speeds or engine not starting at all. Always check the ignition system first, if that's OK then the next suspect is the fuel filter.

Next most common problem is the fuel pump failing. Most modern electric fuel pumps can be heard when you turn the key on. If you don't hear the pump running and your car will not start, it could be your fuel pump. The first thing a mechanic will check is the relay, which sends power to the pump. If this is operating correctly then the pump will have to be replaced.

Last but not least are dirty injectors. While the fuel filter does a good job of filtering the fuel, it's not perfect. Over time deposits and tiny particles lodge themselves in the injectors. This can clog the injector and prevent it from delivering the fuel the engine needs. It can also cause an injector to stick open and send too much fuel into the engine. A regular addition of high quality fuel system cleaner can help keep your injectors clean. Most automotive parts stores will have a good cleaner available. Add it to your empty tank right before you fill up and it will clean as you drive. We recommend doing this every 3 months to keep your injectors performing like new. We also offer a cleaning service where we actually disconnect the fuel line and flush cleaner through the engine. This is only necessary when you let your injectors get to a point where they can not be cleaned by a store-bought product. Regular use of a good in-tank cleaner will keep you from having to pay for this service.

Where do you buy your gas?
Believe it, or not, it can make a difference. Always buy from a well know national brand service station. Gas stations, which are not affiliated with one brand of gas, tend to get whatever is left at the end of the day from the delivery truck. One day they might get Texaco, and Exxon another. Also water mixed with gas will cause problems with your engine. The engine will not run right, plus the water will promote rust in the fuel system.

You can count on A & A Complete Auto Repair Houston for all your Diesel & Gasoline car or truck Repair in the Houston metro Area Pasadena Pearland Conroe Deer Park Friendswood Galveston Lake Jackson La Porte League City Missouri City Sugar Land Texas City The Woodlands Angleton Bellaire Clute Dickinson Freeport Galena Park Humble Jacinto City Katy La Marque Richmond Rosenberg South Houston Stafford Alief West University Place. Call us today at 281-564-7782 or visit our shop at 12160 Bissonnet St., Houston, TX 77099 . Your Satisfaction is Our Ultimate Goal. http://www.AACompleteAutoRepair.com

My Car Heater is not providing much heat / not working. What's wrong?

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Sat, 23 Nov 2013 15:50:00 +0000

It could be any of a number of problems. A heater that's working properly should blow air that's about 75 to 100 degrees F. hotter than the outside air. If it doesn't, any of the following might be at fault:

A low coolant level (often due to a leak or weak radiator cap), but may also be the result of not getting the cooling system completely filled. If you've just recently changed the antifreeze, check the coolant level in the radiator to see if the radiator is full. An air pocket in the heater core or a heater hose may be interfering with the flow of coolant through the heater core.

One way to tell if the coolant is circulating through the heater core is to feel both heater hoses. Both the inlet and outlet return hoses should feel hot when the engine is at normal operating temperature and the heater is on.

Refilling some cooling systems can be tricky. Some front-wheel drive and rear-engine applications require special filling procedures to eliminate the air pockets that become trapped in the heater hoses and heater core. To help vent the trapped air, some vehicles have a "bleeder" valve (or more than one valve) on the thermostat housing and/or certain hose connections. Opening the valve(s) allows air to escape as the system is filled. The valve(s) should then be closed when coolant starts to dribble out the valve. On vehicles that lack these special bleeder valves, it may be necessary to temporarily loosen the heater outlet hose so air can bleed out as the system is filled.

An open thermostat or one that's too cold for the application (most vehicles today require a 190 to 195 degree F. thermostat). One way to tell if the thermostat is stuck open is to start a cold engine and feel the upper radiator hose. You should feel no coolant moving inside the hose until the engine starts to get warm. After several minutes, you should feel a sudden surge of hot coolant when the thermostat opens.

A defective heater control valve. On most vehicles built since 1970, vacuum operated heater control valves are normally open unless vacuum is applied. This allows coolant to circulate through the heater core even when the heater isn't being used. To test the control valve, apply vacuum with a hand pump. If the valve fails to close, replace it.

A plugged heater core. Accumulated crud in the cooling system may plug the core and block the flow of coolant. The only cure here is to replace the heater core. To prevent the problem from reoccurring, the cooling system should be flushed and refilled with a fresh 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and water. Distilled water is best since it contains no minerals).

An inoperative airflow control or inlet door in the heater ducting or plenum. If the defrosters aren't working either, you've found the problem. Sometimes all that's needed to fix the problem is to reattach or repair a loose cable or vacuum hose. On vacuum-actuated systems, however, the vacuum motor or control switch may be defective and require replacement.

A defective blower motor. If the blower motor doesn't work (no sound/no air), the motor may be defective. Or, there may be an electrical problem such as a blown fuse, defective power relay, heater switch or resistor, or loose wire. A blown fuse is a symptom not a cause. A fuse blows when a circuit overloads to protect the wiring and other components against damage. If the fuse is blown, therefore, find out why it blew before replacing it. Always use a replacement fuse with the same amp rating as the original. If a new fuse blows as soon as the blower is turned on, there's an electrical short in the heater circuit or motor that should be investigated. If the fuse lasts a while and then blows, the fan motor is probably running hot due to worn brushes and/or bushings and should be replaced.
The motor itself can be checked by using a pair of jumper wires. Connect one wire to ground and the other to a source of battery voltage. If the motor fails to spin, it should be replaced.

A pinched or kinked heater hose. In rare instances, you might even find mis-routed hoses if somebody worked on the cooling system recently.

A weak water pump (one with badly eroded impeller blades), or one that doesn't turn fast enough because of a slipping drive belt.

An electric cooling fan that remains on all the time, or a clutch fan that's locked up and overcools the radiator

(original article link:http://autos.yahoo.com/maintain/repairqa/fluids_heat_air_conditioning/ques020_3.html)

The Importance of car maintenance

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Mon, 04 Nov 2013 15:42:00 +0000

Your One Stop Shop For All Your Car Needs

There are several car maintenance measures that you have to do to keep your car at its best. It is important to bring your car to A & A Complete Auto Repair Houston Shop / Service Center and have it checked on a regular basis.

Have your engine checked regularly. Remember that the engine is the heart of your car; with a busted engine, your car is useless. Having your engine checked regularly will ensure that it is working properly and it is up to speed. Also, it is important to check your car transmission, otherwise you might be stuck in one of the main highways of Houston under the heat of the sun.

Checking the brakes should also be part of your basic car maintenance. It is highly suggested that you seek the assistance of a good Auto Mechanic to have your brakes checked. Remember that maintenance of your brakes is important for safety reasons. Low brake fluid levels can cause soft brake pedals.

At the same time, dirty brake pads can cause the brakes to squeak. Having your brakes checked regularly by an Auto Mechanic can prevent these from happening and ultimately reduce the risks of accidents caused by brake malfunction.

In Houston, auto AC is as important as air conditioning in your home. A functioning auto AC provides daily comfort from the heat outside. If your auto AC emits undesirable cooling then it is time to bring your car to

A & A Complete Auto Repair Houston and have it checked. AC repair can range from a simple cleaning of a dirty condenser to a mechanical procedure.

It is important that you take care of any minor concerns as soon as you recognize them to avoid any serious problems and an expensive car repair procedure in the future.

For a complete list of Services A & A Complete Auto Repair Houston located at 12160 Bissonnet St., Houston, TX 77099. 281-564-8872 , please visit http://www.AACompleteAutoRepair.com

Engine Knock? Low Oil Pressure?

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Sat, 26 Oct 2013 02:56:00 +0000

Regular oil changes and maintaining the proper oil level will prolong the life of your engine. If you experience any of issues discussed in this article, bring your vehicle to A & A Complete Auto Repair Houston to have it properly diagnosed. For more information about the services we offer, please visit our website www.AACompleteAutoRepair.com

Oil pressure light flickering? Engine knock? Both? Major repair problem or minor annoyance? Either way, you should always quickly investigate the source before it becomes an even bigger problem.

Oil pressure - or more precisely the lack of it - in certain parts of your car's engine can become a major repair nightmare.

All engines lose a certain amount of oil pressure over time as normal wear increases bearing clearances. But unusually low oil pressure in an engine, regardless of mileage, is often an indication that something is seriously wrong and requires immediate repairs.

That "tappet" noise may be only one sticking lifter but it may also indicate an oil flow problem that will eventually cause damage to at least one valve.

A flickering oil light is more difficult to troubleshoot if your engine is not obviously in need of major repair work.

Modern engines with hydraulic lifters, tight tolerance bearings and miniature oil filters require conscientious monitoring of oil pressure.

Diagnostic Tips

A good place to start your diagnosis of a low pressure condition is at the dipstick. Check the oil to see that it's at the proper level (not low nor overfilled). If low, the engine may be burning or leaking oil. Adding oil may temporarily remedy the low pressure condition, but unless the level is properly maintained, the problem may recur.

If the engine is leaking oil, try new gaskets or seals to fix the leak. If the engine is burning oil, the valve guides and seals are most likely worn, but the rings and cylinders might be bad, too. A wet compression test and/or leak down test will tell you if it's the valve guides or rings and cylinders that are worn.

The least expensive fix in the case of worn guides is to install new valve guide seals (if possible) without pulling the head.

The best fix is to pull the heads and have the guides lined, knurled, replaced or reamed for over sized valve stems. Worn rings and cylinders would call for a complete overhaul.

Also note the condition of the oil and make sure it's the correct viscosity for your car and climate.

Heavier viscosities, such as 20W-50, straight 30W or 40W, may help maintain good pressure in hot weather but are too thick for cold weather driving and may cause start-up lubrication problems - especially in overhead cam engines.

Light viscosities, on the other hand, such as straight 10W or 5W-20, may improve cold weather starting and lubrication but may be too thin in hot weather driving to maintain good pressure.

That's why most car and OE parts manufacturers recommend 5W-30 in modern engines for year-round driving.

If the level is okay, the next thing to check would probably be the pressure sending unit. Disconnect the unit and check the warning lamp or gauge reading.

If the warning light remains on with the sending unit disconnected, there's probably a short to ground in the warning lamp circuit. Likewise, if there's no change in a gauge reading, the problem is in the instrumentation, not the engine.

Bad sending units are quite common, so many mechanics replace the unit without checking anything else to see if that cures the problem. This approach might save time, but it's risky because unless you measure pressure directly with a gauge attached to the engine, you have no way of knowing if pressure is within specifications or not.

Most warning lamps won't come on until pressure is dangerously low (less than four or five pounds). So don't assume the absence of a warning lamp means pressure is okay, especially if the engine is making any valve or bearing noise.

If a check of pressure reveals unusually low readings, check the filter. It's possible the filter might be plugged with gunk. Replace the filter and see if that makes a difference.

The next step is to drop the oil pan and check the oil pump pickup screen. If the screen is clogged with debris, you've found the problem. Also, check to see that the pickup tube is properly mounted and positioned, is firmly attached to the pump (no leaks) and is not obstructed.

If the pump is mounted inside the crankcase, the next step might be to remove and inspect the pump. Open the pump cover and measure clearances. Also, check for scoring or other damage. A broken pump drive would tell you something entered and jammed the pump. If the pump is worn or damaged, replacement is your only option.

If the pump appears to be okay, the next step is to measure the rod and main bearing clearances. Check the clearances on the main bearing closest to the pump (this has the greatest effect on pressure) and clearances on the furthest rod bearing (this will show the greatest wear).

If the bearings are worn, they need to be replaced. But before you do so, carefully inspect and measure the crankshaft journals to check for wear, scoring, out-of-round and taper. If the journals need attention, the crank will also have to be reground or replaced.

Other diagnostic checks might include camshaft end play and/or pulling a valve cover or the intake manifold to check the cam bearings and lifters.

Remember, excessive clearances or leaks anywhere in the engine's oil supply system can contribute to low pressure.

Once you've identified and repaired discovered problems, your final check is to start the engine and make sure pressure is within your car's specifications. Use a mechanical pressure gauge and don't rely on the dash gauge or the warning light to verify that the repairs you've made have eliminated your problem.

One Final Warning

If you insist on driving blind and deaf to the obvious warnings coming from under your car's hood, the next sound you hear may be a rapping or knock noise from the rod bearings - which will eventually be followed by dead silence as your engine seizes and your car coasts to a dead stop.

Starting and Charging Components in your vehicle

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Fri, 12 Aug 2011 01:21:00 +0000

Having a good functioning starting and charging system is very important in making sure you are not left stranded anywhere. A & A Complete Auto Repair Houston and its experienced and knowledgeable Techs will provide you with a FREE starting and charging system check anytime. Just take a few minutes and review the information below provided by your friends at A & A Complete Auto Repair Houston, Your One Stop Shop For All Your Car Needs.

Battery:
Operation: The battery has four main functions. It supplies the energy to operate accessories when the engine is not running, it supplies the energy to crank the engine, it provides additional energy when electrical demands exceed the abilities of the charging system, and it acts as a voltage stabilizer absorbing voltage fluctuations in the system. Advice: Corroded, dirty, or loose battery terminal connections can cause problems in the charging system. If a bad battery is suspected, remove the battery from the vehicle, clean the terminal posts, top off the electrolyte levels if accessible, fully charge the battery and then load test it.

Voltage Regulator:
Operation: The voltage regulator controls alternator output by opening and closing the field circuit in the rotor. To insure that the battery stays fully charged, most regulators are set for a system voltage between 14.5 and 15.5 volts. Advice: On older vehicles the voltage regulator was often a separate part from the alternator. Most modern alternators have a built in voltage regulator. Some are accessible on the outside of the alternator, while others are internal and are usually serviced by replacing the alternator. Other than obvious burn marks on the casing, it's hard to condemn a voltage regulator without testing it. If the voltage regulator is suspected to be bad, check to ensure that it can be tested before removing it from the vehicle.

Fusible Link:
Operation: A fusible link is a fuse that resembles a short piece of wire. Sometimes there will be a rubber barrel shaped marker attached to the link to visually set it aside from the rest of the wiring. Fuses and fusible links are designed to protect the circuit that they are a part of. If the current in a given circuit exceeds the amperage that it is designed for, the fuse or fusible link is supposed to burn and stop the flow of current before damage can occur to the components in that circuit. Advice: If the charging system tests faulty on the car and the alternator and voltage regulator test good off the car, you may have a blown fuse or fusible link. Check the fuse box lid or owners manual to see if there is a charging system related fuse.

Charge Indicator:
Operation: The charge indicator is a light on the dashboard that illuminates whenever system voltage drops below a predetermined level. Advice: On older vehicles the charge indicator bulb was an integral part of the charging system circuit. If the bulb burned out, the system would not charge. Most modern systems employ a resistor wired in line with the bulb to maintain the integrity of the circuit if the bulb burns out. You can check the bulb by turning the ignition switch on without starting the engine. With the engine off and the ignition switch in the run position, the charge indicator lamp should be on.

Ignition Switch:
Operation: The ignition switch is an integral part of the electrical system. The majority of automotive system components do not receive any electrical current unless the ignition switch is on. Advice: It is possible for a faulty ignition switch to cause problems in the charging system, however if a faulty ignition switch is the cause of a charging system problem, there will probably be other ignition switch related symptoms as well.

Alternator:
Operation: The alternator is most commonly driven by either a v-belt or a ribbed or serpentine belt. Advice: A loose or glazed drive belt can slip, causing the alternator to spin slower than normal resulting in low alternator output. At the other extreme belt tension that is too tight can prematurely wear out any bearings that are involved.

Maintaining Your Engine

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Wed, 10 Aug 2011 02:28:00 +0000

There are many different areas that need to be maintained on a regular basis to keep your engine running properly. Lets look at these areas and explain what and why these items need to be serviced.

Air Filter - Replace the air filter about every 15,000 miles for normal driving conditions. A dirty air filter will not cause the engine to run bad, unless it is completely plugged. A dirty filter can cause reduced fuel economy and higher exhaust emission gases.

Fuel Filter -Fuel filters become clogged with dirt and debris during normal operation and should be replaced to increase performance, extend fuel pump life, and aid in fuel economy.

Spark Plugs - Worn or faulty spark plugs can cause misfire, poor fuel mileage, loss of power, and slow or extended starting time.

Spark Plug Wires - Spark plug wires should be replaced when replacing spark plugs to get maximum performance and life expectancy of spark plugs.

Distributor Cap/Ignition Rotor - These items should be inspected/replaced when replacing spark plugs and spark plug wires, or when a "major tune-up" is called for. The distributor cap is where the other end of the spark plug wires connects to, and the ignition rotor in underneath the distributor cap. Some newer model vehicles do not have a distributor at all. These cars are designed with Distributor less Ignition Systems (DIS.), and therefore do not have these parts. All of these items need to be checked every 15,000 to 30,000 miles. Check with A & A Complete Auto Repair Houston for the proper maintenance schedule for you car or truck.

Here at A & A Complete Auto Repair Houston, we service all Cars and Trucks, Gasoline and Diesel , Foreign and Domestic. Our specialties include: Tune ups, Brakes, Suspension, CV joints, Struts, Shocks, Rotors, Calipers, Tie rods, Control arms, Engine repair or replacement, Transmission service or replacement, Clutch for manual transmission, Cooling fan, Radiator, AC System, Ignition system, Starter, Alternator, Fuel pump and fuel delivery system, Oil change, Oil pan gasket, Head gasket , Valve cover gasket, Electrical, Major and minor mechanical repair, Car detailing and restoration. We offer Free Diagnosis with repairs and provide Free Towing services with major repairs, call for details or visit us today at 12160 Bissonnet st., Houston, TX 77099. 281-564-7782 A & A Complete Auto Repair, Your One Stop Shop For All Your Car Needs. (Original article link:www.yourautoadvisor.com)

A & A COMPLETE AUTO REPAIR: Free Brake Check

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Fri, 15 Jul 2011 17:03:00 +0000

Free Brake Check. Bring your car to A & A COMPLETE AUTO REPAIR, Your One Stop Shop For All Your Car needs. 12160 Bissonnet St., Houston, TX 77099, 281-564-7782 for a Free Brake Check and Diagnosis.

Air Conditioning System / AC Check and Repair by A & A Complete Auto Repair Houston

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Tue, 12 Apr 2011 18:51:00 +0000

This is the time of year when you want to have your Vehicle Air Conditioning System checked by A & A Complete Auto Repair Houston. There are many components to your AC System : Compressor, Condenser, Evaporator, Dryer, Blower motor, Low and High pressure lines, Condenser fan, Switches, Sensors, Relays, etc..

If your AC System is not working properly or not working at all, it is advisable to have the system checked to pin point the cause. We had a customer last week who was quoted $1400.00 to have his AC System working again. You should've seen his reaction when we told him it was a simple fix. All he needed was a low pressure switch!

We've also had customers who charged their system with R-134 and caused more damage because they over pressurized the system.

So before you spend hundreds of dollars in repairing your AC System or attempt to charge the system with more refrigerant, have the professionals at A & A COMPLETE AUTO REPAIR HOUSTON inspect your AC System and diagnose the cause of the problem.

You can count on A & A Complete Auto Repair Houston for all your Diesel & Gasoline car or truck AC Repair in the Houston metro Area Pasadena Pearland Conroe Deer Park Friendswood Galveston Lake Jackson La Porte League City Missouri City Sugar Land Texas City The Woodlands Angleton Bellaire Clute Dickinson Freeport Galena Park Humble Jacinto City Katy La Marque Richmond Rosenberg South Houston Stafford Alief West University Place. Call us today at 281-564-7782 or visit our shop at 12160 Bissonnet St., Houston, TX 77099 . Your Satisfaction is Our Ultimate Goal.

Diesel Truck Repair and Car Repair / A & A Complete Auto Repair Houston - Rated A+

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Mon, 04 Apr 2011 03:42:00 +0000

Diesel and Fleet Truck Repair and maintenance plans available at A & A Complete Auto Repair Houston. Our extremely competitive pricing combined with Quality, knowledge, experience, and the fastest and most efficient service will provide our customers with truly exceptional value. Our mission is to get back on the road quickly.

For all your Truck and Fleet Repair Needs call A & A Complete Auto Repair Houston at 281-564-7782 or visit us at 12160 Bissonnet St., Houston, TX 77099

You can count on A & A Complete Auto Repair Houston for all your Diesel & Gasoline car or truck and fleet repair in the Houston metro Area Pasadena Pearland Conroe Deer Park Friendswood Galveston Lake Jackson La Porte League City Missouri City Sugar Land Texas City The Woodlands Angleton Bellaire Clute Dickinson Freeport Galena Park Humble Jacinto City Katy La Marque Richmond Rosenberg South Houston Stafford Alief West University Place.

My Check Engine Light Is On?

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Fri, 18 Mar 2011 01:52:00 +0000

To schedule an inspection or to have your Gasoline / Diesel Car / Truck check engine light diagnosed give A & A Complete Auto Repair Houston a call at (281)564-7782 or bring your car to 12160 Bissonnet St., Houston, TX 77099 and start saving money on your Car / Truck repairs today!

So, what does this mean? Is my car going to blow up! Is it going to be expensive to repair? Let's look at what the check engine light means and how it works.

All modern vehicles have a computer or ECM (Electronic Control Module) that controls the engine operation. The main purpose of the ECM is to keep the engine running at top efficiency with the lowest possible emissions. With today's strictest emission regulations it is not very easy to achieve - the engine needs to be constantly and precisely adjusted according to various conditions such as speed, load, engine temperature, gasoline quality, ambient air temperature, road conditions, etc.

Today's cars have much more electronics than in early days - there is a large number of various sensors and other electronic devices that help the engine computer or ECM to monitor all vehicle emission-related systems. When the computer senses that there is a problem with any emission-related system or component, it stores the trouble code(s) in the memory and lights up the "Check Engine" or "Service Engine Soon" light to tell you that there is a problem and your car needs to be looked at.

The technician at the dealership or a garage then will hook up the scanner to the car's computer and retrieve the stored code(s). Then he will look it up in the service manual provided by the car manufacturer. The service manual contains the list of possible codes (about a few hundred) and describes what each code means and what needs to be tested. The code itself doesn't tell exactly what component is defective - it only says what engine parameter is out of normal range. The technician will have to perform further testing to pinpoint defective part.

So, Just hook my car up to the computer!

This is a very common statement made by customers with any type of problem from a check engine light on to the rattle in back seat! They all think there is a magic computer that tells the mechanic exactly what is wrong with the car!

This is far from the way it works. First of all, the handheld scanner only aids in diagnosing emission related and electrical concerns, including transmissions and body control functions.

Most repair shops will charge a diagnostic charge (usually $50 to $100 dollars) to scan test your cars computer system and check for codes in the system.

Some problems that will turn on the check engine light can be as simple as a loose gas cap or a major problem such as an engine misfire or a slipping transmission.

Many places sell code readers so you can scan your cars computer yourself, but by the time you spend the money for the scanner you could have it scanned by a professional and have it repaired at the same time. Most repair shops will not just replace a part because you tell them its bad, they will want to charge you to complete their own diagnosis. So unless you are a skilled mechanic I don't recommed wasting your money on a code reader.

Always have your vehicle checked anytime your check engine light comes on, becasue even minor problems can turn into major problems!

What makes the check engine light come on?

There are many different things that can cause your check engine light to come on. If your car's OBDII system is functioning properly, the CHECK ENGINE or SERVICE ENGINE SOON light should flash briefly when you turn your car's ignition key to the on position. After the brief flash, the light should go out and remain off while you are driving.

A glowing CHECK ENGINE or SERVICE ENGINE SOON light alerts you to problems in your car's onboard diagnostic system that should be checked out as soon as possible. There's no reason to panic and in many cases, you won't notice any difference in vehicle performance.

One of the most common problems with check engine lights on today's cars is a LOOSE or uninstalled gas cap! Yes, that's right your gas cap.

First, check the gas cap to make sure it was not left loose after refueling. Sometimes, this can trigger the light. Most OBDII-equipped vehicles have a gas cap that simply snaps in place, when turned to the right. Some early OBDII-equipped vehicles have threaded caps. On these, just turn the cap to the right until it begins to click. If the gas cap was loose, the light should go out after a few short trips.

If the gas cap is not the problem and the light remains on steady, have the system checked as soon as possible. A light that flashes requires more prompt attention, indicating a more severe condition that must be checked immediately to prevent damage to the catalytic converter. When you experience a flashing light, minimize driving at high speeds or under heavy loads. When scheduling service, make sure the shop that diagnoses your car has technicians who are properly trained and certified for OBDII diagnosis and repair.

Another common problem is filling your gas tank up with the key turned to the on position. This is very easy to do today with the introduction of the DVD player in alot of today's cars, trucks, and vans. Mom and Dad pull up to the gas station turn off the engine and then turn the key back on so the kids can watch their movie. This can, but not always turn the check engine light on, so be on the safe side and always fill up with the key in the off position.

Engine Control Sensors

Sensors measure a variety of operating parameters that help to reduce emissions and also serve functions for the engine, transmission and other systems. These sensors generally include the manifold air temperature sensor, coolant temperature sensor, manifold absolute pressure sensor, airflow sensor, throttle position sensor, vehicle speed sensor and oxygen sensors.

All of these sensors provide critical operating information to the vehicle's powertrain control module, the onboard computer that compares the signals from the sensors to programmed values. Based on the signals, the computer then issues commands to various output devices to control the engine and transmission, along with reducing emissions. 1996 and newer vehicles are equipped with second-generation onboard diagnostics (OBDII) systems that put special emphasis on sensor values and emissions.

Sensors do not require regular maintenance or adjustments. Regardless of what a specific sensor measures, all operate within a range of normal values. If a sensor provides a signal outside the normal range long enough, the powertrain control module will set a trouble code, which will usually trigger the SERVICE ENGINE SOON or CHECK ENGINE light.

To schedule an inspection or to have your check engine light diagnosed give A & A Complete Auto Repair Houston a call at (281)564-7782 or bring your car to 12160 Bissonnet St., Houston, TX 77099 and start saving mony on your car repairs today!

This article is from ( http://www.yourautoadvisor.com/ ) and brought to you by A & A Complete Auto Repair Houston - Your One Stop Shop For All Your Car Needs.

CAR NOT STARTING? CALL A & A COMPLETE AUTO REPAIR

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Sun, 13 Mar 2011 07:21:00 +0000

A & A Complete Auto Repair Houston , Your One Stop Shop For All Your Car Needs. 12160 Bissonnet St., Houston, TX 77099 , 281-564-7782

You can count on A & A Complete Auto Repair Houston for all your Diesel & Gasoline car or truck repair in the Houston metro Area Pasadena Pearland Conroe Deer Park Friendswood Galveston Lake Jackson La Porte League City Missouri City Sugar Land Texas City The Woodlands Angleton Bellaire Clute Dickinson Freeport Galena Park Humble Jacinto City Katy La Marque Richmond Rosenberg South Houston Stafford Alief West University Place. 77099 70072 77073 77074 77075 77083 77084 77085 77036 77054 77469 77479 77494

Our Specialties:
Tune ups, Brakes, Suspenssion, A & A Complete Auto Repair CV joints, Struts, Shocks, Rotors, Calipers, Tie rods, Control arms, Engine repair or replacement, Transmission service or replacement, A & A Complete Auto Repair Clutch for manual transmission, Cooling fan, Radiator, AC System, Ignition system, Starter, Alternator, Fuel pump and fuel delivery system, Oil change, Oil pan gasket, Head gasket , Valve cover gasket, Electrical, Major and minor mechanical repair, A & A Complete Auto Repair Car detailing and restoration.

Don't be Troubled by your Car Troubles

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Fri, 04 Feb 2011 21:58:00 +0000

Don't let your car troubles ruin your day. The professionals here at A & A COMPLETE AUTO REPAIR HOUSTON will make your car troubles go away. Quality, Knowledge and Experience is what sets us apart from the rest. Give A & A COMPLETE AUTO REPAIR HOUSTON a call today, Your One Stop Shop For All Your Car needs.

Brake Repairs Needed? Don't Take Chances With Your Brakes - Repair Them Now!

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Sun, 02 Jan 2011 23:50:00 +0000

Brake repairs - critical? Of course!

Your brakes keep your family safe. Brake repairs and parts for imports - expensive? You bet! Brake rotors for import cars, unlike domestics, are built with minimal thicknesses to save weight - meaning they can't be "turned"; they must be replaced. Brake rotors for imports are also more sensitive to warping from heat, and overheated brakes are the second most common cause of failure (first is wear-and-tear).

Save money on brake repairs and parts with these tips:

Use Your Eyes & Ears to Inspect Your Brakes
Visually inspect your brakes' condition at least every six months.

Here are some things to look for:

Brake Rotors (discs) should be inspected all the way around the surface and on both sides for any concentric scoring (grooves) or obvious defects. If defects are found, replace your rotors immediately. Any rotor discoloration may be a sign of overheating and an inspection by a brake repair professional is needed.
Brake Pads will normally match rotor scoring but should also be inspected for uneven wear, breakage or cracking on the friction surface. Again, if defects are found, replace the pads immediately. Many cars also have brake pad sensors to warn of pad wear. If your car uses sensors, replace these at the same time as your pads.
Brake Drums (if equipped) should also be inspected on a regular basis. Check for the same types of flaws as noted above. The drums should not have excessive grooves or have a deep "trough" dug into them where the shoes ride.
Brake Shoes (if equipped) should be worn evenly and have no rivets protruding to the friction surface.

Additional Troubleshooting:

When inspecting brakes, check calipers, wheel cylinders, hoses and fittings for any hydraulic fluid leakage.
Inspect the master cylinder, reservoir and proportioning valve assemblies as well. Replace or rebuild as required.
A "spongy" brake pedal or one that's gotten lower underfoot also needs looking into. It could be caused by sticking calipers, worn pads, low fluid or hydraulic system problems.
If you can't "pump them up", then you definitely have hydraulic problems that need work. If you always have to pump them up, at the very least your hydraulic fluid needs replacement.
To check brakes by sound, know how your brakes should sound and listen for out-of-the-ordinary noises.Most cars have a slight brushing sound from the pads lightly touching the rotors. This is perfectly normal.

Sounds to beware of include:

Squeaking may be caused by dust or dirt on the brakes, loose pads vibrating when applied or worn pads.
Rhythmic noise might mean you have a warped rotor. Instead of a solid squeaking noise, it pulsates. In extreme cases, the brake pedal will also pulsate underfoot.
Constant brake noise is never a good sound and any grinding noise spells real trouble!

Most importantly: As soon as any problem is noticed, get it repaired immediately. Delaying brake repairs is extremely dangerous. Overstressed rotors and drums can break. Brakes may be too worn or damaged to stop your car in an emergency. Even if you manage to avoid physical harm, the longer you delay fixing brake problems, the more you increase the cost of doing so.

Badly worn, warped or overheated rotors can damage wheel bearings and the complete wheel hub assembly. These parts often cost as much or more than the brakes themselves.

Even if you like doing your own work, every few years your brakes should be examined by a professional. Checking brakes for "run-out", warping, wheel bearing play, proper proportioning balance, among others, are normally more involved than can be accomplished in your garage. This inspection can also uncover underlying problems that could eventually become costly or dangerous.

To schedule an inspection of your brake syatem give A & A Complete Auto Repair Houston a call at (281)564-7782 or bring your car to 12160 Bissonnet St., Houston, TX 77099

This article is from ( http://www.autohausaz.com ) and brought to you by A & A Complete Auto Repair Houston - Your One Stop Shop For All Your Car Needs.

How To Get Your Car Ready For Winter

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Tue, 30 Nov 2010 21:35:00 +0000

It is always a good practice to take care of small car problems before they get bigger and end up being very costly. Here are some suggestions that will help you get ready for winter time. If you need help in getting these items taken care of , call your friends at A.A.A. Complete Auto Repair at (281) 564-7782 . We have several maintenance packages you can choose from and will greatly benefit your car in the long run.

Tips:

1. To get your car or truck ready for winter, you're going to want to have all the fluids checked and topped off. You can do this yourself or take the car to a garage. Brake fluid, antifreeze, washer fluid (don't add water to the washer fluid tank as it could freeze), power steering fluid, etc. Check the manual for your vehicle for locations of each reservoir, and types of fluids you should be using.

2. Replace your windshield wiper blades. Again, you can do this yourself by referring to the car's manual for the right size blades. Check your tires, make sure the air pressure is right. If you haven't done so in awhile, have the tires rotated. If you have snow tires, you may want to can have them put on soon.

3. Check all your lights. Make sure brake lights, head lights, turn signals, fog lamps, and any other lights have good working bulbs and fuses.

4. It's also a good time to have an oil change and tune up done to your car - to keep it running smoothly through the winter. You don't want to get stuck out in the cold!

5. In case you do ever get stuck on the side of the road - this is the time to make sure you car emergency kit is updated. Everyone should have a small bag in the car with a flashlight with good batteries, pocket hand warmers, and a blanket. Check you car emergency essentials too - spare tire, jack, flares, tire iron, etc. and don't forget to call your friends at A & A Complete Auto Repair Houston at: (281) 564-7782 to get immediate assistance.

This article is from ( eHow.com ) and brought to you by A & A Complete Auto Repair Houston - Your One Stop Shop For All Your Car Needs.

Do bad shock absorbers and struts effect tires?

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Thu, 04 Mar 2010 02:13:00 +0000

Bad struts or shocks will cause uneven wear on a tire due to the shock/struts inability to properly control the motion of the wheels under braking and over rough roads. There can also be alignment issues as a strut wears, which will cause uneven wear on the tires too.

If you are concerned about your car shocks or struts give us a call at:

281-564-7782

832-867-3000 (24 hour)

Or visit us at:

A & A Complete Auto Repair

12160 Bissonnet St.

Houston, Texas 77099

A & A Complete Auto Repair is your One Stop Shop for All Your Car Needs serving all of Houston metro and surrounding areas.

Brake job special $89.99

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Fri, 04 Sep 2009 00:03:00 +0000

** Brake job special **
$89.99Parts & Labor
Call for details: 281-564-7782
Open 8:00am-7:00pm M-SAT
10:00AM-3:00pm(or longer) Sundays

A & A Complete Auto Repair
12160 Bissonnet St.
Houston, TX 77099
281-564-7782
24 hours: 832-867-3000

We work on cars & trucks, all models, foreign & domestic including diesel.

Excellent Quality work & affordable pricing backed by a great warranty on parts and labor.

Here is a partial list of some of the work we do:

* Transmission & clutch specialist - repairs & rebuilds w/new parts & warranty

* Complete brake service , CV joints, struts, steering, suspension

* Engine, drive train, no starts, alternators, electrical, fuel injection, A/C, heating & cooling systems, and much more!

* Body lift/lowering kit installation/suspension work

* Window tinting w/lifetime warranty

* Stereos, accessories & headliners installation

* Computerized diagnostics

* Fast, friendly service

* Open early & late 7 days a week for your convenience!

* Free towing with major job

* Your satisfaction is 100% guaranteed

We do it all & look forward to working with you

Tune up Brakes Suspenssion CV joints Struts Shocks Rotors Calipers Tie rod Control arm Engine Transmission Clutch Cooling fan Radiator AC Compressor Condenser Ignition Coil Starter Alternator Diagnosis Fuel pump Fuel filter Oil change Oil pan gasket Head gasket Valve cover gasket Electrical Houston Katy Sugar land Richmond Rosenberg Stafford Missori city Alief 77099 70072 77073 77074 77075 77083 77084 77085 77036 77054 77469

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Fri, 17 Apr 2009 00:43:00 +0000

A & A Complete Auto Repair
12160 Bissonnet St.
Houston, TX 77099
(281)564-7782 / (281)564-7783

Specials

• $5.00 OFF Standard Oil Change(Includes standard filter & up to 5 quarts of 10W30 oil)

• $69.96 Basic Brake Service(Price covers shoes/pads, semi-metalic pads extra, resurface rotors/drums extra)

• $19.99
Basic A/C Service Test and record vent temperatures, inspect hose fittings. Inspect components for visible
leaks and compressor. Gauge and record freon pressure. Run performance test

• 20% OFF
Power Steering, Coolant or
Transmission Flush

Prices are for most cars. Special and high performance parts, synthetic fluids extra. See shop for details

Have you had an oil change lately? For FREE that is.

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Fri, 10 Apr 2009 16:47:00 +0000

Well, does a FREE oil change sound too good to be true? Here at A & A Complete Auto Repair not only you will get a FREE oil change, but also a FREE 15 point car inspection. To find out how, call us at: 281-564-7782