Rayo's Appalachian Ink Trail

6/4/2016: Deuces Wild Olympic Triathlon

2016-07-16T12:51:00.006-07:00

Pre-race
I arrived in Show Low the afternoon before the race after a lonesome drive on rt.60 over from Socorro through Datil, Pie Town, and Quemado. The location is similar to Ruidoso in terms of elevation (~6,200ft) and climate (hot and dry). After checking in to my campsite, I grabbed my bike and took a tour around the Fool’s Hollow campgrounds where the race would take place. After riding to a dock by the lake, I took in the swim course buoys and surrounding ponderosa pines—a beautiful venue for my first Olympic-distance triathlon.

After taking a bike tour of the campgrounds, I grabbed my wetsuit and rode over to the registration site. Check-in was fast and easy, and I’m glad I was staying in the campground, because one of the main concerns during registration was to ensure we had a place to park. I recommend camping in the Fools Hollow Lake area to ensure a simple 1-mile ride or walk to the start of the race. Since I had never swam in the open water, I wanted to at least get in a short open-water swim (OWS) before the race start. So after registration I walked down to the swim course, changed into my wetsuit, and with a group of about 8 other racers, swam out to a buoy about 300m out. The swim ended up being very different than the pool, it was harder to sight since there was a wake, and the visibility was less than three feet, so I couldn’t even see my hands during my stroke. After getting out to the buoy, I treaded water for a few minutes and then swam back in, and then went out again but only about half the distance. This second swim out was easier on my nerves, and I had a bit more confidence, so a slight sense of relief began to set it that at minimum I was making an improvement in my OWS ability.

The night before the race I went out to eat after registration and then got back into camp early, about 6pm. After setting up the tent, I went to bed early to read. About 4am I woke up to the sound of drumming and shrieking, some sort of pre-race ritual. My alarm was set for 4:30, but I thought it better to just get up then rather than attempt to sleep another 30 minutes. Getting up early turned out nicely, I hit the bathroom before there was a line, and made oatmeal with walnuts and raisins. The oatmeal was difficult to eat, but I managed to force it all down. I then packed up my transition bag with my race gear, packed away my tent, locked my car, and rode my bike down to the race start just as the announcers were beginning to proclaim the start of the first wave.

Arriving at the race was simple. I rode up to the transition area, parked my bike and set up my bike and run gear on the transition mat, applied sunscreen, put on my wetsuit and did some stretches until my wave was ready to enter the water.

Swim
A few people before the start of the race talked about the altitude causing hyperventilation on the swim, so I really wanted to take the start easy. The swim start was in a narrow channel for the first 200m before opening up to the lake. The swim start began with arms and legs frenzying in every direction, splashing, and smashing against each other. I did my best to keep myself calm during the start, getting smacked in the side, and the legs and arms, until the channel opened up to the lake. Once in the lake, we turned right and began to get into a rhythm. I found the swim difficult, particularly at the beginning, and I ended up swimming breast stroke a few times and treading water to catch my breath. From the start to the first buoy I was panicky, but after making the first turn, about 1/8 done with the swim I began to find my rhythm. I lifted my head to spot every six breaths, and managed to swim fairly strong for my ability through the end, ending a few minutes after my target time of a half hour. Coming out of the water was challenging as I felt a bit dizzy and the exit is uphill, just as I was coming out of the water I kicked a large, submerged block of stone and put a shallow gash into the top of my left foot that began to bleed instantly and ended up taking several weeks to fully heal. Walking up the exit ramp I went to the carpet spread out with wetsuit strippers, and sat down so they could tear my wetsuit off of me. After they stripped me, a process that took about 5 seconds, I grabbed it and walked quickly to my bike.

Bike
The bike course was more my strength, and I spent the majority of the course passing other cyclists. It was a great feeling climbing up the hills out of the saddle overtaking other racers, and I had a terrific time on this leg. The course was slightly hilly, with only 600ft of gain over the 25miles. The roads were in good condition for the most part, and the final stretch into town was very smooth and a fun section to push before T2.

Run
After getting off the bike, I changed my shoes, sprayed on more sunscreen and hit the trails for the start of the run. I forgot to take the tube and co2 canister out of my jersey pocket, so I was forced to run the 10k with them—not a big deal, but somewhat annoying and an experience to learn from. The start of the run was on trail for about 1.5 miles, and the heat and altitude made it challenging. There were a few ups and downs throughout the race course through the campground area, and a long out-and-back with slow gain of elevation. The last 5k proved tougher than expected, and again, I think the temps reaching into the mid 90s and the elevation at roughly 6200ft made the distance seem longer. As I entered the final mile I began to pick up speed and as I entered the finish stretch I began to sprint to the finish. It felt great to approach the line at speed and hear my name announced on the speaker. Upon crossing the line I grabbed a beer and sat down in an ice bath, there were several available. The ice bath felt amazing, and I enjoyed it for a good ten minutes before heading back to my car, eating some lunch with my new friend from PHX and then starting the long 6hr drive home to Las Cruces.

Deuces Wild Triathlon Festival was an excellent first Olympic triathlon. The venue was gorgeous, the course was challenging, and the race itself was very well organized with a very nice goodies bag including a hat, shirt, and attractive swim cap. I will definitely try to do this race again, maybe the 70.3 version.

Results:
37th of 78 racers (3rd in AG)
Total time: 2:46
Swim: 33:20
Bike: 1:11
Run: 54:21

4/9/2016: Tax Day Sprint Triathlon

2016-07-16T12:51:00.004-07:00

Reverse Sprint: 5k Run, 20k Bike, 400m Swim

This race took place on the White Sands Missile Range just 25 minutes east of Las Cruces, NM. All racers Are required to pass a background check and superficial vehicle inspection to gain access to the base, so I arrived almost two hours prior to race start, which meant an early wake up: 4:30am. After kicking myself out of bed I brewed up my cup of coffee, ate a banana, and grabbed an extra banana and an energy bar for the drive. Since I'm not big on breakfast, and a sprint doesn't require the nutritional calculation of a long-course event, I could get away with a small breakfast.

Upon arriving at the base, I had wait in line of a few cars each individually questioned upon entering. When my turn came, I rolled up and the officer asked me the purpose of my visit, I explained that I was there for the triathlon, and he seemed a bit steamed. I asked if they had alerted him, but he said he was covering the shift of a friend, and frankly expected VERY little incoming traffic, so the surge of racers at 5am was an unpleasant surprise. Nevertheless, he was polite and after collecting my driver's license and proof of insurance, he indicated that I was to pull in and park on the side of the road in queue behind the other cars waiting on their background check approval.

While in queue another officer came up and asked to peer inside, which entailed opening my doors and trunk for a quick inspection; this office er was very good humored, and help ease my mounting tension as my eyes darted to the clock--nervous I'd be late for my first triathlon. After the car inspection, I waited about 10 minutes for my clearance card and then entered the base to make the quick drive over to the pool where the race was headquartered.

The race start was organized and the check-in process was smooth. I picked up my goodie bag and headed outside to unload my bike from the car and get my numbers attached to the frame and my helmet. Once ready, I walked around talking to other racers for the remaining hour before the race.

About 30 minutes before race start the sun had risen revealing the mighty east faces of the Organ Mountains. As far as race venues, the views we enjoyed were incredible given the few miles we were from the steep cliffs and pointy grey peaks with dark-green veins of junipers and pines snaking skyward.

As the hour neared, we pooled under the race gate to hear the race rules and an overview of the course. Then when the explanation ended and seemingly to the surprise of even the race staff, a loud "GO!" heralded from somewhere on high, and after a second of confused looks and turning heads looking for some sort of validation, we all roared onto the run course.

The run course doesn't have significant elevation change, but the first half mile or so is a slight downhill. Being my first triathlon, I started out slow with a 9min mile pace, and as I fell back in the pack, a veteran triathlete friend of mine told me to "get up there!" And at that point I realized, "Shit! Get going!" And I instantly cranked up my speed. From then on I passed people, and after a mile of digging I was in the top 10 of the run. Slightly ahead of me I was able to make out two of the NMSU tri club athletes, and the further of the two became my next goal. As I began to reel in the two racers, the course began to take an uphill slant making it a bit more difficult on me. What this also meant was that the other two were going through this same rough patch, and soon enough I passed the first one and then 20 seconds later the second one. At the point I had about a mile to go, so I pushed a littler harder still as I wanted to grow my lead as much as possible in what was sure to be a fast race. During the final half mile I passed a guy and then about 1/8 mile from T1 I caught the guy in 4th place, but he refused to let me pass, so I finished just behind him.

Getting on the bike in transition was very fast in mind, and unfortunately I was moving so fast that I forgot to grab my tube and co2 inflater. Shortly into the ride I realized this mistake, and realized if I flatted, I’d be basically out. Fortunately for me, though, I would ride the first half downhill—making a few turns on clean pavement—and hit the halfway point without stressing the tube situation or my positioning. Nobody caught me on the first half of the bike, but after turning around and heading back, the uphill wasn’t as kind to me, and shortly after heading back two guys passed me. It mattered very little to me that I was being passed by a few guys, what was important was that I seemed to be doing pretty well in my first triathlon and the views around me of the Organ Mountains were spectacular and worth the trip on their own. I wouldn’t be overtaken by anyone else on the bike, and after climbing my way back up the slope, I re-entered the military base not far behind the two who had passed me six miles earlier. Arriving into T2 I quickly hopped off my bike, racked it, grabbed my goggles, and tossed my helmet and shoes under my bike. The run into the pool area was wobbly, but not too bad; the end was close.

As I first approached the pool I wasn’t sure where to enter, so I yelled “Where? Where?” and someone pointed out the entry point right in front of me—the far right lane, which was also the closest to where I had entered. Getting into the pool, I quickly began to pull myself down the lane, one lap per lane and eight total lanes to complete. I had never practiced swimming after riding, and consequently wasn’t prepared or expecting such a hard, albeit short, swim. With two laps down, I caught up to one of the guys who had passed me on the bike, and I passed him pretty easily in the swim. A few laps later I was nearing the home stretch and the second guy was a full lap ahead of me—I wouldn’t catch him. Swimming my last length I was excited and relieved that my first triathlon allowed me a respectable finish. I climbed out of the pool 3rd overall.

Results
3rd of 30 racers (1st in AG)
Total time: 1:07:20
Run: 22:41
Bike: 35:16
Swim 9:25

4/1/2016: A-Mountain 24hr Ultra

2016-07-16T12:51:00.002-07:00

PRE-RACE
I learned about this race just a few weeks before it started. Justin Atteberry, a local trail runner with a few 100-milers and a Death Race under his belt, put this together as a “Fat Ass” or informal race with no entry fee and a very basic set of rules: 24hrs starting at 6pm on Friday until 6pm on Saturday, complete as many laps around A-Mountain (aka “Tortugas Mountain”) as possible (1 lap = ~4 miles and ~300ft gain), you can start in either direction but each lap must alternate direction (so change from clockwise on loop 1 to counterclockwise on loop 2…). The trail around A-Mountain has a few small ups and downs and is mostly rocky single track lined with spiny cacti and views of the Organ Mountains.

RACE
My plan for this race was just to run a few laps as a hard “workout” for the week in order to show some support for the event itself and to meet some local runners. I showed up at 5:30pm on Friday after work with my hydration pack, a few energy bars, and a low-key attitude. Parking in the rear lot of A-Mountain I took in the local Ultra runner scene and their camping setups on wheels. Honda Elements with built-in shelving and beds, pickup trucks with caps over the beds and sleeping bags spread out inside, and passenger vans with mattresses on the floors were parked around the lot. Water coolers, bunches of bananas, ice boxes full of beer sat within arms length of the trunks and tailgates of the mobile living quarters. Racers sat in camping chairs, bumpers, and stools as they taped individual toes, massaged feet, and laced brightly colored running shoes in ritual-like fashion. I, a newbie to the ultra community, had casually driven into the hive of a amazing community of running fanatics.

The start of the race hinged on first repeating an oath, which we were video-recorded saying with our right hands raised: “If I get lost, injured, or die, it’s my own damn fault.” —Outsiders may look upon the saying of such words as a blasphemy to the gods of safety and sense, but we weren’t here to honor them, and many of these folks seemed to deeply enjoy lifting the hood and peering inside themselves as often as their feet and family lives would permit. After repeating our oath, the race began, and about 20 of us tore off down the approach trail and up to the A-Mountain loop path. Once we met the path, some turned left, but I decided to go right and go counter-clockwise for my first loop. The running was particularly fun the first loop as people were all fresh, excited to be there, and not yet feeling any aches or pains. After about 45 minutes, I came upon the trailhead and exited the ring to sign off on my first loop and grab some food/beverage. At the race start there’s a gazebo with a few picnic tables, water coolers, and piles of munchies; on the trailhead sign there was a large clock hanging, and across from it a scoreboard about 5’ x 5’ mounted on two posts. The scoreboard was made up of rows with each racer and columns each displaying the finishing time of each loop. The idea was to run a loop, write the time you finished it on the scoreboard, and then go back and run another loop, and so-on.

Since my goal was merely to get a hard workout in, rather than go for my first 50k, etc. I decided I would run 2 laps the first day, go home, sleep, shower, spend the morning with my wife, and then go back in the afternoon and run 2-3 more loops before 6pm. A respectable plan, and after starting my second lap I began to feel the pull towards ultra running, particularly the allure of running 50 miles or even the distant dream of being able to run 100 miles. It was a mysterious buzz that I felt, a mix of confidence, respect, and intrigue that tugged at my heart and mind—never mind details such as ability, fitness, or endurance, just savor the feeling of belonging to this community of mega athletes, even if for one night, one loop, or one short stretch of running side-by-side.

After leaving for my second loop it was getting dark, so I switched on my headlamp and began to feel really happy to be out running in the night, at my local trail, with a group of ultra runners. Just when I thought things couldn’t improve, it began to rain, which did a few things: the air began to smell really good, the dust was beaten down, and the cool rain refreshed my skin. Now, with rain drops illuminating in my headlamp’s gaze, I winded through the trails, up and down the short dips, cutting left and right around monstrous ocotillo cacti and prickly pear, and then fast-stepping up a few rock steps to regain a flatter portion of trail. Once done with my second loop, I signed the board, and then I got into my car to head home to my warm bed. After all, I was an amateur that night, running alongside giants. As I drove home, deep in thought and peering out through the swish/swosh of the windshield wipers, I reveled in the level of athlete that those runners were, just beginning their night of 4-mile loops, slick rock, and darkness surrounding their bouncing headlamp beams.

The next day I returned about 1pm with arms, neck, and legs lathered in sunscreen. I was aiming to complete an additional 3 loops to make 5 total in honor of the Barkley Marathons “Fun Run,” which I had recently watched on Netflix. However, after completing three loops, and with two hours to spare, I decided to run another two. I completed by fifth loop that day (and seventh overall) at 5:52pm, just eight minutes shy of the 6pm cutoff time.

RESULT
28 miles, 12th of 45 runners

POST-RACE
After the finish we sat around in camp chairs sipping beers, listening to ultra runners tell stories of past races, and watching others test their toe nails the way a child might test her teeth to see if any are loose and ready to fall out. A peaceful calm crept over me as I realized I had run my first, albeit unofficial, ultra, by breaking past the 26.2 mile mark; however, not having done it all in one sitting, I don’t qualify it as my first true ultra, for that I have quite a bit more training to do!

3/5/2016: Sierra Vista Trail 30K

2016-07-16T12:50:00.004-07:00

PRE-RACE
I arrived for this race about 6am, which wasn’t too bad since I live about 10 miles from the race start. The parking at the Sierra Vista Trailhead was totally packed by the time I got there, even though I was still 1.5 hours early. Parking on Dripping Springs road was simple though, and after a 10 minute walk I was at the race start. There were food trucks and about 200 people gathered and hydration packs, calf sleeves, and brightly colored running clothes splashed against the unusually overcast desert sky. The Organ Mountains proudly posted as our backdrop as we waited to sign-in and get one step closer to the start.

RACE
The race started with an announcement from Dan Carter who, along with Eugene Smith another Las Crucen, put in a lot of volunteer hours to make this race happen. With a loud shout “GO” we started the race by running back up the path leading to Dripping Springs rd. and then turning back to head towards Vado, NM. (NOTE: The 50k and 30k race courses follow the same path; however, where the 30k turn-around is at the Bishop’s Cap parking lot area, the 50k turnaround is down in Vado, NM.) One we got onto the actual single-track of the course, there was an excitement to push and keep up with the pack; however, I knew that I hadn’t run 30k before (previous longest distance was 13.1mi) and I would need to start slow and keep it slow if I was going to finish strong.

The race course is divided into two sections for the 30k: the first section of the Sierra Vista Trail (SVT) is between Dripping Springs rd. and Soledad Canyon rd. —All of which has the majestic Organ Mountains running parallel to the race course for unabated views of rocky peaks! The first section of the SVT has a few tough climbs and switchbacks down, and I found it difficult to maintain a strong pace without my HR shooting skyward. I opted to walk up the climbs and try to re-gain speed on the switchback descents, but with the line of people bottlenecking on these ups and downs, the course ended up not lending itself to speed unless you were willing to be more aggressive. I wanted to keep my HR in the 150s during the first half, so I was not aggressive, and found a slight relief in walking up behind people on the first section’s climbs.

Once the first section of the SVT ends by crossing Soledad Canyon rd., the pack began to thin out. (NOTE: At Soledad Canyon rd. there was an aid station, a small parking lot (fits maybe 12 cars) and a spot to tie your horse if out on horseback—a great place to park for a trail run or ride.) I ran behind a guy for about 30 seconds who was dressed in what resembled pajamas (navy blue thick cotton shorts/shirt combo). He was like a big blue semi truck grunting his way along, and letting out the occasional blast of air either from mouth or bottom. I burned a match and sped past him at first opportunity putting a good 30m between him and me, and closing that chapter of the race for good. This second section of the SVT was fast since it was practically a long downhill stretch all the way to the halfway (turnaround) point. Offering a few sections of red earth, the trail at times resembles something off a postcard from Utah, we’re lucky to have this trail in our city!

Although the trail is pretty much all downhill to the turnaround there was an occasional climb, but it was very small, and was more like a small roller to put your pace into check. The trail itself widens slightly at times, but for the most part is single track of loose rock, sand, and sometimes hard pack. The occasional arroyos that slice into the SVT create sandy pits, but they are very short, usually 2-5m wide, so you usually run into them and out of them before they can make things too rough for you. The trail is fairly aggressive as far as its rockiness, there are lots of baseball-sized rocks, some larger rocks at times, so you have to keep your eyes down for the vast majority of the run and be prepared for your feet to take a beating! The trail isn’t too technical, but the rocks do require you to be a somewhat seasoned trail runner, and I wouldn’t recommend this race being a first trail run experience unless you’re a strong road runner, and will be wearing trail shoes, but that’s just my advice.

I was watching my watch pretty closely as I neared the halfway point, and it ended up being an additional half-mile past where I expected. Once it was in view, I felt relief to be halfway, and also that very few people were ahead of me. I counted about 20 people who passed me on their way back from the halfway point, so I knew I had a decent shot at placing in the top 20 if any of them blew up (or if I didn’t blow up), and I was able to keep up my face on the significantly harder second half. Once at the halfway point, I found it stocked with M&Ms, gatorade, water, fruit, pickles, potatoes, coke, and gels. After eating half a banana, a handful of M&Ms and a gel, I turned around and began the second-half of the course without any unnecessary delay.

The second-half is much harder than the first simply because the first half is practically all downhill, which means uphill was the name of the game for km15-30. My plan on the second half was to push my HR a bit harder, and being that it was my first race of this distance, I pushed it much harder than I planned ending up with 170-185 being the average range for the second half. The run uphill was tough, and I ended up passing a few people early on. After km20, I would spot a runner in the distance and take about 10 minutes to catch up to him/her to pass; I ended up passing a handful of runners in this way until about km22 when I began to bonk. It was as sudden and unexpected as getting your hand slammed in a cupboard drawer. I went from feeling really confident to getting a shiver of fear down my spine as my strength was sapped in an instant. Fortunately, an aid station was very near, and I drank to servings of coca-cola, which gave me a surge of power for about 2km. At this point I opted to run with a guy I had caught up to in lieu of passing him—I honestly didn’t have the strength to drop him, and I was just happy to be in the thick of it with somebody else after having flown a bit too close to the sun. He and I ran a 2km together and as we approached the final aid station (5km from the finish) we both noted (he a bit more testily than I did) to the volunteers that the course was over 30km long! Really, at what should’ve been km25, my watch stated 27km. I began to think that the first out-n-back stretch of road at the start of the race was an unnecessary section for us 30k runners, oh well; if I can run 30k, what’s 2k more?! Well, it sounds like no big deal, but when your mind is telling you that “enough is enough,” 2 extra km stings like sunscreen in your eyes. Ugh.

Nevertheless, leaving the final aid station, I knew I could pull another 5k off; and at that point nobody had passed me on the second half of the course. The guy I had been running with dropped a bit behind me for the first 1k; however, as we began to go through the ups-and-downs of that first section of the SVT, he caught up to me, and what I thought was a reanimated alliance abruptly ended as a woman running like she was hopping from lily pad to lily pad over an alligator-infested pond, shot up to us with a huge smile on her face. I thought, “my god, she’s mad!” but no, she wasn’t she was super fit, and kicking ass on the hardest part of the course. Once she passed us, like a ghost, did that really just happen, the guy who I had been running with and sharing sweat and grumblings about extra the race’s extra kilometers, said “Shit, man, that’s my wife, I gotta run with her.” And with that, he found an extra reserve in his tank, stuck his straw into it and began slurping up the last bits of his energy as he took off after her. I was left to finish the final KMs alone, but it was no bother, at this point I could see the tents at the finish line. Fortified with adrenaline, I ran the final kilometer without issue, and as I approach the final 50m, a giant smile crept across my face. I had finished my first 30km race (32km ultimately!).

RESULT
3:35:16 17th of 48 racers

POST-RACE
I drank a beer, ate some posole, and got a massage from Cristofer Gonzalez, who was kind enough to give out free massages to racers. I felt pretty whooped from that effort, but it was really early in my training season, and my first time at that distance. Overall, I’m pleased with my performance, and next year hopefully I’ll complete the 50k!

Closest I'll ever get to being on a billboard...

2014-04-03T12:52:00.004-07:00

My Interview on Backcountry.com

I was interviewed for an article on Backcountry.com. Click the link above to check it out and get an abridged version of my experience on the AT.

I have to give Lexi Dowdall in particular and Backcountry.com in general major props because they make possible a community of both entertaining and super knowledgeable gear-heads and outdoor adventurists. I love the product reviews, pictures, videos, stories and interviews that give the site strong authority and mass appeal while providing us with what will best meet our outdoor needs. I'm proud to contribute!

Shark's Tooth - Organ Mountains

2014-03-15T20:13:00.002-07:00

Today, I hiked to the summit of the Shark's Tooth in the Organ mountains, near my home in Las Cruces, New Mexico. The hike was roughly 6 miles r/t, 3,000ft gain, and 40% bushwhacking.

Shark's Tooth (Right)

My dog Osa and I started off around 9:40am and headed towards chimney rock. The trail is rocky and well established forming a large loop that traces the perimeter of Bar Canyon. After about 15 minutes of fast-packing we reached the artillery zone and walked alongside it up through an ocotillo (cactus) garden. Ocotillos are like spiny sea plants you'd expect to see while scuba diving near the ocean floor. They're tall, slim, loosely branched, and covered in 1'' spines that you don't want to brush against.

Once through the garden and past the Chimney Rock, we cut towards the ridge keeping the rolling hills to our left. The views were already great and the weather comfortable, 70° and sunny. The trail itself was very faint at this point and I picked out giant dead juniper trees to hike to, one at a time. After reaching one, we'd stop for water, I'd eye another and we head to that one--all the way up to the ridge we followed this pattern. I think I'll call it the juniper route if I take people up this way in the future.

The ridgeline was breezy, but offered a great view of the Organs to the north and a slight incline with a few small sections of light scrambling. After climbing up for 15 minutes or so, we reached a large burn section from a few years ago and it was eerie to walk through as bushwhacking in the Organs is usually a fight for each step. The burn section funneled us onto a narrow strip that led us onto the summit, which was fairly large and comfortable for lounging about with amazing 360° views.

After a while on top I decided to head down straight towards Bar Canyon, rather than go down the way I came. This required a bit more bushwhacking that I was in the mood for, but it wasn't too thick and there was a moderate amount of scree to offer me some "skiing" opportunities and a fast descent. There was some down-climbing involved at several points, but nothing too steep and I found it to be a great balance between safety and challenge.

Once back to the trail we jettisoned back to the car in no time at all, just as the dark clouds rolled in.

One Year Later

2013-03-26T18:18:00.002-07:00

Hey everyone, so it's been just over a year since I left to hike the Appalachian Trail, and I thought I'd check in and let you all know I'm still breathing. I actually added a new video to the blog with my final pack setup--find it in the Video tab.

Life is good. I'm living in Las Cruces, NM with my bride-to-be, and our little dog, Osa. I'm also happy to report that I'm back up to a healthy 185 lbs.

White Sands National Monument

I've been doing quite a bit of exploring here in the Las Cruces area, trying my best to get out every weekend and do a hike with Osa. We've done pretty well for ourselves: knocking out at least half of the established hikes in the area in a few months time, and bagging our first peak (Baylor Peak) a few weekends back.

The hiking here is much different than back East. The trails are not blazed--sometimes they're cairns (rock piles). I've built a few cairns myself, and tried my best to stack rocks as high as possible (thank you, Mike, for the inspiration). There are different obstacles to consider here that I didn't worry about on the East coast: thorns, prickers, spines, dust, heat, and drought. Rattlesnakes are still a month or two away, so I have yet to contend with them. (Osa has gotten her first rattlesnake booster shot, one more to do in a few weeks.)

The trails here are beautiful despite the increased level of danger. There are crags, rock shelves, outcroppings, needles, scree, along with other things that are new to me as a mid-westerner. But I love it. It is an excellent adventure exploring the surrounding areas--and with my hiking experience, I know how to prepare and handle myself out there.

Baylor Mountain

I don't ever dream about the trail, but more and more I've been thinking about it. Really, after the trail everything was so fast paced that I didn't even give what I had just accomplished much thought. Moving across country, looking for a job, working three jobs for a few months before settling into two, getting a puppy, amongst other things.... will do that I guess.

But now that things are settling down into a manageable, and pleasant, routine, I'm able to calmly reflect on my Appalachian Trail experience--what it was, what it is, and what it will be for me.

I decided to hike the trail while hanging out at Grounds for Thought, a coffee shop and bookstore in Bowling Green, Ohio. I was originally considering a section, but after researching it a bit more, I realized that hiking the entire thing was possible if I had 5-6 months to spare. I did, so I did. The preparation I put into the hike was probably more than the average hiker, but as a result I didn't start the hike without anything that I needed, and the number of things that I didn't need that I did bring was small. This allowed me to concentrate on the most important thing: hiking.

The map of the AT that my mom tracked me on and hung in their kitchen is now in my possession. It shows the entire 14-state spread of the trail, annotated with key moments and details along the way. I love looking at it, reading the city names and mountain tops, and enjoying the still frames or moments I have stored away for such places in my memory. If you break your life up into large fragments--grade school, high school, college, first job, etc.--the AT is one of those fragments for me, and it's a very important and unique one to who I am and who I want to continue being.

Before I hiked the trail I remember reading a post on the website "Whiteblaze," wherein a thru-hiker said something along the lines of "The Appalachian Trail is an amazing experience, and it's even more amazing once you've done it." That pretty much sums of the experience for me and how I feel about it. I will continue hiking because I love doing it. I really enjoy being outdoors exploring--truth be told, I enjoy forests more-so than desert--, and the U.S. has so much variety that we're very fortunate to live here. (Now if only we could construct a country-wide high-speed rail system so that we could explore it more economically, quickly, and easily.) I also still love researching gear, although I'm not as concerned about how many ounces (or grams) something weighs.

Achenbach Canyon

People still ask me if I would do it again. I guess that's their way of measuring how 'worthwhile' I found it to be. I don't think the answer is merely a simple yes or no. But, I'll try: Yes, I would do it again, but there are so many other long trails that I would like to do first. It isn't necessarily the Appalachian trail that I am saying yes to, but rather the experience of hiking a long-distance trail, pushing myself mentally and physically every day, and meeting super-interesting people from all over the world that I am saying "Yes, I'd do it again" to, and yes I would do it again, but first I want to check out the Pacific Crest Trail--at least the John Muir portion--and Angela and Osa are coming too.

G'nite.

Ten Days Later

2012-08-11T20:09:00.003-07:00

Drove 780 miles today and staying in Tulsa, OK.

(Angela and I are moving to Las Cruces, New Mexico!) ...odd to cover in one day what would normally take 6 weeks...

It’s been over 10 days since I last posted, and I apologizefor the absence. My life has been much busier since finishing the trail thanI’m used to, and it’s been difficult to find motivation to blog in the eveningswith the Olympics on television and a comfortable couch to sink into.

After spending the night in Bangor, ME, I had a greatbreakfast at Jean’s place—oatmeal with blueberries from their backyard. Miko,the golden retriever, nudged my leg for attention while I read the newspaper infront of wide bay windows. The long oak table made for a much better eatingsurface than I was accustomed to and I was forced to sneak into the kitchen forseconds while finishing off the paper amidst petting behind Miko’s ears.

The bus station was my point of departure from Maine, astate that I am now greatly interested in returning to. Greyhound was on time,imagine that! The ride to Boston went without issue, and the subsequent 21hours were not painful enough as to cause suffering, although I only managed tocatch two hours of sleep in total.

Cruising into Ohio via I90 was exciting. I recognized thetown names as we passed by exit ramps and the thoughts of home began tointensify as the proximity to Cleveland grew. At the Cleveland bus station Iwas greeted by my mom, who ran up to me in a ecstatic dash. She was wearing herAppalachian Trail t-shirt and the tears in her eyes resounded: it was good tobe home. But the excitement had onlybegun to kindle.

As we walked toward the bus station exit, we passed a largepillar. “Who’s that?!” My mom asked. And I turned to my left to discover thatmy fiancé, Angela, was standing there in a turquoise dress with her hair flowing around her and her eye lids coloredmaking her eyes leap out at me. She had gotten home a few days prior and wantedto surprise me. It worked. I hadn’t expected her until the 2^nd andit was the 31^st, a present to have her waiting for me at the busstation. Now, my homecoming celebration was complete.

No longer living on the trail has been much more comfortable,but there are some elements of my new routine that aren’t easy. One thing that was immediately apparent toAngela, was my showering schedule. Prior to the AT I always showered firstthing, every morning; however, now that I haven’t been showering more than oncea week or every ten days, it’s difficult to reconnect with my old routine.

Other than showering, I noticed my first few days theincrease in noise. Sitting at the picnic table in the backyard eatingbreakfast, I couldn’t help but feel shaken by the lawnmowers, car engines andradios, weed whackers, dogs and neighbors. It no longer strikes me as odd, butthe first two or three days I noticed it much more.

I’ve been eating cereal with trail mix drowned in almondmilk for breakfast these days. Lunch and dinner is whatever I find in the packed fridge. Fruit has been the best luxury: watermelon, cantaloupe,strawberries, and a mango.

Angela and I went on a short hike after I had been home aweek. I thought my feet would be callused from all of the miles that I put onthem... wrong. Well, they are callused, but they aren’t tough. I was in pain,but I still deeply enjoyed being out in the woods.

Regarding my physical health, I’ve been home 12 days now andI still feel sore. I’ve only gone hiking once and worked out once so far. MaybeI need to start working out more and hiking or running. My feelings thus farhave been, rest so my body can recover. Maybe that’s what I need still, morerest. My feet are still sore every morning like on the trail, but no numbnessin the hands or feet. My only soreness is in the legs and feet and it shouldsubside soon.

Moving out to Las Cruces, New Mexico now. We should be thereby tomorrow night, only 780 miles to go! I can’t wait to see our new house andthe hiking areas. I’ll check in on the blog soon. I plan on putting up videosonce I get settled in Cruces.

Thanks to everyone for the congratulations and warm wishes.I appreciate it truly, it’s always exciting to read blog comments.

Gnite.

Day 136

2012-07-29T13:28:00.001-07:00

(2184.2/0) Hiked 5.2 miles to Baxter Peak, Mt. Katahdin. MPD 16.06

The dragon has been slain. All morning a battle was fought in Baxter State Park in the center of Maine, and a victor stood victorious, and scantily clad, atop the conquered beast at 8:15am on this day Sunday the 29th of July, 2012.

The night prior was a difficult one to sleep. I found myself awake and alert several times during the night. My alarm, set for 4:30am, never sounded; I turned it off at 4:20am and unzipped my sleeping bag. I deflated my air mattress and began the arduous task of rolling it up for storage-something that I have perfected over the past four months. After packing away my sleeping bag, air mattress, clothing bag, and down jacket, I put on my shoes and retrieved my food bag from the nearby bear line.

After sitting back down on the bench at the edge of the lean-to, the uncomfortable pondering of breakfast grappled with my stomach. The hour reminded my of the day I left for Georgia and had gotten up at that hour to drive Angela to the airport. An exciting hour for what lies ahead, but a dormant hour it is: the thick dark blanket of night still pulled tight to the chin of life around me. I had planned, yes planned, an oatmeal care package for my stomach of grandest scale, but the whimpering and popping inside my abdomen protested and the call of my body was heeded: oatmeal discarded for a later date, and cheese danish devoured in its stead.

I ate the danish as I walked the lonely dirt road back to the ranger station, headlamp ablaze, poles tucked under arm and pace swift and agile as I avoided pot holes and larger rocks. I did this mechanically, my feet and my eyes working in a harmony forged by miles and months of steady toil fended off and overcome with a growing sense of grace and confidence.

At the range station I passed the bridge over Katahdin stream and over to the small parking lot where I waited for Tuesday. One of the stipulations of Baxter State Park is that when I was donated to the state of Maine by its former Governor, he mandated that parking lots never exceed a certain size so as to limit the public impact on the land and its creatures. The lot held about 25 cars, and once full, people are turned away. As I waited in the lot, I emptied my bag completely and only put in what I would need for my summit attempt. I decided to carry few items: down jacket, rain jacket, winter hat, headlamp, water treatment, food bag, rain cover, and water bladder, paracord, first aid, pocket knife and trekking poles. (My camera always sat in my pant zipper pocket.) I popped two naproxen and started my morning stretches, bag ready-5:05am.

Tewzday rolled in at 5:15am and started duct taping his feet while I put my spare contents into his car. We started down the Hunt trail, the AT, at 5:39am. There are several trails that reach Baxter peak and they are all of different lengths and difficulty. The Hunt trail is the longest at 5.2 miles and half of this ascent is above tree line requiring rock scrambling.

The first 1.4 miles lead from the campground to Katahdin Stream Falls. The water at this point is crystal clear and ice cold. A satisfying place to fill your water bottle and gaze upon the falls. There is also a privy some 200 feet to the right of the trail, the falls is to the left, and this is the last man-made toilet available.

After the falls, the trail toughens from gentle dirt and occasional root and pebble, to rock and tall rooted birches leaning over a tight rocky canal with a steady shallow stream. The hiking became a bit arduous at this point and the water made rock slippery, but I was mindful of this condition and adjusted my pace and foot placement accordingly. The trail isn't very steep at this point; it is still gaining momentum, like the twig stage of a fire, it was slowly growing in strength.

As I climbed onward my mind shifted from the morning excitement and goose-bumped skin, to a more serious and laser-like focus. I didn't think of much else but the climb itself as the rock and root would accept nothing short of my full attention. As I broke free of this stage and advanced above tree line, the views were so spectacular that aloud I spoke, "oh my god." Katahdin has several mountains extending off of it like a long, spiked tail. These, at first illuminated by the new day, were sheltered in the shadow of Katahdin as the early sun got to its feet. The mountains to my east were no threat, the west however gaped wide for rainclouds to gallop in and shower the lands below. They seemed to be moving south and so I continued pushing upward hoping their course wasn't set and that my return hike down would be dry.

Above tree line was a sheer joy. It was my favorite of all AT climbs and not due to its finality. The climb reminded me of Dragon's Tooth and Lehigh Gap, neither of which truly resemble it in the flesh, more like distant cousins. Up to this point I had always used poles, well the poles were promptly sheathed as I worked my way up giant boulders the size of mini vans. A few portions required rebar to aid hikers up and over taller boulders and the next mile resembled a jungle gym. It stretched long and tall up the mountain to a false peak. From the peak it extended upwards again with the jungle gym, until reaching the "Gateway" and "Tableland" as they are called.

Just before the false peak, the climbing was really fun. I pulled and pushed myself atop boulder slabs with rocky fingers, and slightly hunched over, I advanced skyward looking at the fleeing dark clouds to the west and the rocky peaks to the east. The Gateway proved to be just that, and the tone of the climb shifted instantly from serious to elated.

I smiled widely as I began the final 1.6 miles to the summit. I spoke out loud to myself, congratulating and wishing a happy finish. The terrain was still very rocky, but there was life. The alpine zone has small plants that nestle close to the ground, some brooded by rock and tall root. The trail was lined with twine for .5 miles or so--to keep hikers from beelining gayly to the peak, I'd assume.

The Henry David Thoreau spring, one mile from the peak, was nothing to speak of due to lack of rain or just a general lack of splendor, I hope the former. From here, knowing that after 2,183 miles, I had only one to go, was both comforting and exciting. The excitement truly grew as I climbed the final steps to the rocky-ridged peak and wildly jumped over stones and dashed past blazes to the summit sign.

There were two thru-hikers up there and I was to be the happy third. I whooped loudly as I approached and once up to the sign, I embraced it fiercely, wrapping my arms around it and pressing my face against the wood as if it would be blown from the mountain at any moment. I laughed and slapped the sign like it was an old war buddy and shook my head with a smile stretched from ear to ear.

Bobber and Hawk sat across from the sign, dazed and merry expressions pasted on their faces which were tucked in drawstring-tightened hoods. The wind and cold had frosted over their once hot muscles and they were beginning to feel the chill. They ate snacks and stomped their feet still cheerful, but very much aware of the cold wind. It was then that I stripped down and told them to snap my photo with the sign. The thought had occurred to me as I walked the final mile. My body had done the work to get me to this point, why hide it behind gear that was replaced halfway or just recently acquired? I thought the idea a betrayal, and naked in the infamous Katahdin-Summit photo I must be. The existence of underwear is irrelevant at this point; I proudly recognized the feet and legs that did the walking and the chest beneath which lungs and heart worked at an epic rate. As skinny as a flagpole I extended my arms in proud resilient celebration of a war well won.

Afterward, the clothes were quickly picked up and put back on. The cold wind atop Katahdin is not to be mocked for long without stern consequence.

After a meditative 30 minutes hunkered down in my puffy down jacket, rain jacket and winter hat, eating granola bears and gabbing with the wind, Tewsday appeared on the final staircase. His movements hinted at signs of battle fatigue, what with blistered feet and battered shoulders, but it was scarcely there to detect. He as well was elated and very much appreciative of the sublimity of our present location. High fives were exchanged along with celebratory wishes. We took several pictures with three friends who were just arriving and then we all sat to gaze at the wonder and might of the surrounding region.

After a few hours we all started down the mountain. These were the first blazes that I met since graduation. I looked at the white rectangles the way a professional looks back at teachers from his elementary-school past, a reverence that isn't mouthed, but softly cast with one's eyes. The descent took longer than the climb up, but it was filled with emotion. I was thrilled to have achieved my goal and beginning to ponder what my next adventure would be.

The car ride was slow and bumpy leaving Baxter. I had a slight headache from the sun and perhaps not enough water, and my stomach was haranguing me for not feeding it enough. I motioned for Tewsday to make a stop at the Abol store and we pulled over for some body fuel. I ate several slices of pizza, two large cookies, another danish, and a Gatorade. To answer your question, No, I will Not continue to eat like this once home, but my body is still clamoring for calories and I best serve to listen. At nearly 155 lbs. I have some work to do to reclaim my 185-lbs physique. If you would like to send me protein-laden treats, I promise they won't go to waste.

The trip from Baxter took us through Millinocket and then to Bangor where I spent the night. Jean, a member of the AMC, who I met at Zealand Hut in the White mountains put me up for the night. She made chicken Marsala, fettucini, salad, blueberry pie and hard cider from Vermont. I ate till full and now plan to fall deeply, madly, and victoriously asleep.

Gnite.

Day 135

2012-07-29T13:27:00.001-07:00

(2179/5.2) Hiked 13 miles and staying at the Birches Lean-to. MPD 16.14

My last morning waking up for a normal day of hiking on the AT was a wet one. It was raining when I woke
up and the water had even ricocheted into my tent dampening my sleeping bag and my clothes that were at the foot of my bag. Normally I would have been bothered by this, but I wasn't. Not today. Today is my last day of hiking before I summit Katahdin and anything is welcome.

Shortly into my hike I startled a bull moose that took off running away from me as I came up a short hill. It was massive, bigger than the other bull, and its rack looked some five feet across. It was too quick for a picture however.

Just as I was exiting the 100-Mile Wilderness, I noticed two PBRs hanging from a tree. I took one for the mile walk to Abol Bridge. Thank you whoever you are.

Had lunch at Abol restaurant. There was a pizza and sandwich component to my short stay there and it made me the following ten miles occur without any worry of refueling. Tuesday had a big cone of blueberry ice cream and this enticed me so I had a cone of deer tracks: espresso-flavored ice cream with fudge and heath--a true winner. As I finished my cone outside at the sheltered picnic table, the light rain wasn't very welcoming. It seemed so much easier to catch a ride with Tuesday into Baxter and to the tentsite. No, no, no. I put on my rain shell and braved it and I'm glad I didn't succumb to temptation.

Once in Baxter State Park you need to register with a hiker kiosk attended by an AT "Steward" and then you may continue on. I checked in, hiked the ten miles and made it to the Ranger station some three hours later. As I walked into the station, the ranger commented how well my parents had raised me since I brushed my shoes off before trapsing in. She also asked what number thru-hiker I thought I was on the year. I guess #98, and she looked at her deputy with surprise. "No, but close. You are our #100!" My goal was to be in the first 100 finishers and I achieved it, so cool. Next!

I stayed at the Birches which is a shelter reserved for long-distance hikers only. It made me feel exclusive until I realized we were the one being excluded. The shelter was .3 miles up road and away from all guests. Who knows what sort of debauchery demanded the need for a thru-hiker quarantine. I was quick about dinner and then made a fire. Thought a fire would be a nice ending to my time on trail, and I hit the hay shortly after the last ember puffed out.

I'm getting up at 4:30am tomorrow to get an early start on Katahdin. Hopefully I'll sleep tonight.

Gnite.

Day 134

2012-07-29T13:25:00.003-07:00

(2165.6/18.6) Hiked 20 miles and tenting at Hurd Brook Lean-to. MPD 16.16

Didn't have the same vigor this morning as last, but I was up and at 'em by 7am. The morning started with a rocket ship climb straight up: 900 feet to the top. It's good to get the blood really pumping early in the morning.

My first view of Katahdin this morning was from 36 miles away and my second view, from 20. The difference was pretty big, but the mountain (no matter from what distance) is a massive beast dominating the area and reigning supreme over the state of Maine--and New England were it not for Mt. Washington.

I saw a female moose today. I was rinsing a contact lens that had been bothering me and when I zipped the bag, the noise startled her and she ran a short distance to safety. I slowly hiked the next few hundred feet watching her and she eventually walked down the hill and towards the AT. As she approached I stopped and watched her. She met my gaze with her own and then, deciding the only way to get water was past me, she slowly headed across the trail, only some 15 feet from me, and down into the pond.

The bugs at this site are the second worst ive experienced on the trail. (one night back with the Lion Killers on New York or Jersey was the worst. This is close though.) I'm on my tent typing and all I can hear is the buzzing whine of the mosquito horde clamping for my blood just outside my protective cocoon of netting. Their cries are ceaseless and I lost one of my ear plugs last night so this may get to annoy me.

I also must be careful not to lay against the netting, even in the bag liner, as the skeeters can plunge their syringes into my through several layers of protective garmet. I have my t-shirt over my feet which are in the sleeping bag liner which is touching the netting. They are trying to get at me through that point, but I'm prepared!

Despite the bugs we had a fire tonight and sat around sipping whiskey and scotch with dinner. It smelled good and helped with the pain-little sip to ease into the evening. I had two dinners: first was rice with tuna, and then Tuesday gave me a dehyrated chili. I'm gonna sleep with a full belly I hope.

Tomorrow is three miles to Abol store and the end of the 100-Mile Wilderness. I'm excited to get to the store for burgers, pizza, Gatorade, and ice cream...

Gnite.

Day 133

2012-07-29T13:25:00.001-07:00

(2146/38.2) Hiked 21 miles and tenting at Wadleigh Stream Lean-to. MPD 16.13

I happily got out of my tent this morning because I could see sunshine sneaking through the bottom and lighting up my vestibules. What a great feeling to wake up on the trail to sun and not rain.

I wasn't ready to leave until 9am. Just as I was leaving, Tuesday rolled into camp! He stayed at a tentsite a few miles back and made them up this morning before I left. It was good to see him and I realized at that moment that he would finish with me. Today was a 21 miler and he added a few more on to that making his day a marathon. This terrain out here is a gift, no worries pulling big miles here with trail legs. He ended the day hurting, but he made it to camp before dark. He actually ran into some day hikers who offered him a feast of food. When I saw them, they were setting up camp so I missed out. Lucky guy, that Tuesday. Tomorrow is a 20, 14 on Saturday and a 5 on Sunday to Baxter Peak. Tuesday has a car parked five miles from Baxter so as long as we stick together I should make out with a ride from him to Bangor which would be super fricken awesome.

The hike today wasn't too eventful. Flat terrain and a lot of rivers and bogs in the process of drying up. The terrain is not difficult to move fast on. I did my first 11 miles today in just over three hours, so you can move if you want to.

The privy this morning had a padded toilet seat, awesome comfort.

The shelter that we stopped at for lunch was pretty nice, but the highlight there was what Tuesday brought to my attention: a bull moose! He was huge and real-dark haired, with a large rack of antlers and a slow, but majestic pace. He glanced around slowly as he plodded through the woods making his way to the spring. What a great sight.

Tonight was cool as there are some eight of us here at the shelter and there was a fire. We all talked and hung out for a bit and now it's the best time: bed time.

Gnite.

Day 132

2012-07-29T13:24:00.001-07:00

(2124.5/59.7) Hiked 22 miles and tenting at Cooper Brook Falls. MPD 16.09

I got my money's worth today. The White Cap range is four peaks and after those guys I thought I was done for the day with rough ones and poof! Another 900 foot uphill. Well I made it to my planned destination and I'm in bed which is a good place to be at this time.

This morning was an early wake up. Tuesday called to me at 5:54am and I responded with a firm explanation that I'd catch up to him later on and that I'd sleep another hour. But when he woke me up, he used the words "big day," and as I lay there I thought, "shit, he's right." I had to take a piss badly enough anyway so I was up and at 'em by 5:58am. On the trail by 7am allowed me to get up on he first of four peaks by 9:30am and over to White Cap by 11:30am. This peak was a gem. The views were stupendous pointing out all of the major climbs over the past hundred miles to my south. To the north... Well let's preface this by saying that I met a sobo up top and had explained to him what a treat it'd be to see Katahdin from there. He explained as if he were giving directions to the gas station that I could see it from a lookout back yonder. Well, as soon as I happened upon the short path, BAM! Katahdin in all her glory stood there, beaming at me like Mordor in the Lord of the Rings. I didn't strike me with fear though, it was more a sense of awe, almost sublimity. I had goose bumps and it wasn't due to the 50 degree temp and 15 mph winds, the journey had a visible end, a finish line is sight.

After seeing Katahdin I felt like eating a dinner to treat myself. As I approached the lean-to, I noticed a sobo eating a meal and he had a jar of peanut butter out as well. I said hi and stated openly at his food. I commented how it looked like a lot and that I had an incessant hunger ever since entering Maine (shameless, I know). The angel asked if I liked peanut butter, and I said yes while jetting my right arm out in front of me with the same lightning fast reflexes exhibited by seat belts in high-speed auto accidents. He looked half-startled, but the offer had been made, accepted and carried out. I had a jar of peanut butter. I ate a lunch only a thru hiker could enjoy... I only had powerade-flavored water and didn't feel like getting fresh water, so I added the fruit punch to my instant mashed potatoes and then about six heaping tablespoons of peanut butter and mixed it all up. I ate it all, and left only a third of the pb for a later date. I ended up falling asleep on my back in the shelter until about thirty minutes later I was awakened by a chipmunk walking up my thigh and onto my chest. When I sat up, he jumped a foot in the air and shot in the other direction like a bottle rocket; he startled me as well.

He rest of the day was spent hiking the less strenuous miles remaining to bring myself here to where I now lay. The lean-to and tent sites neighbor a multiple-tiered waterfall that empties into a deep pool just in front of the lean-to. It's chilly out, otherwise I'd take a dip.

Dinner was exceptional. Tuesday, the great guy that he is, has a surplus of food since he's hiking twice as fast as planned. As a result, he gave me a Thai Chicken Mountain House meal for dinner. I boiled a bag of rice and a tuna packet and threw them in with the Thai, then added two cups of boiling water, sealed the bag up and after ten minutes, I had a glorious feast. One of the few nights I'm going to bed without much hunger. Rad.

My next four days look as follows, 21 miles tomorrow, 20 on Friday, 13 on Saturday, and 5 on Sunday to the peak.

Time to sleep. Gnite.

Day 131

2012-07-25T06:31:00.001-07:00

(2103/81.2) Hiked 18 miles and tenting after the Carl Hagas trailhead. MPD 16.05

I woke up to rain and it was on and off all day. Such strange weather today, it would sprinkle for about ten minutes, stop, and then be sunny and hot for an hour before repeating the pattern.

Of all the days to be rainy, today wasn't an ideal one as there was a lot of steep climbs armored with slate and smooth rock. I wiped out four times today and each time was unpleasant. I'm cautious on this terrain, but also nervous as one error can be game over. After chatting with several groups of sobos today, the consensus is that one past Whitecap range, the last 65 miles to the Birches are cake. I'm only 10 miles from cake and should be having it for lunch tomorrow then. Today was ambitious, big miles over slippery, rocky terrain with a lot of elevation changes, small changes, but rampant ones.

The views from Chair back mountain were impressive and I was able to see plenty of mountains that, for once, I won't be climbing. Bittersweet.

The shelter halfway in today was a fun stop. I laid my tent out in the sun to dry out from this morning while I sat in the shelter and stretched. Tuesday rolled in and gave me a salmon packet as he had surplus food, and I was munching on it when it started to rain again. I pulled my pack and shoes in from the rain and lazily thought how nice it was to be indoors. Bang! My brain fired the message: TENT OUT IN RAIN. I ran out and shook it out rolling it up but it was soaked. Fortunately a few miles later atop Chair Back I held on to one end of it and let the sun and wind whip it dry in under a few minutes.

Tuesday and I hiked past the Hagas trailhead and set up camp down the hill from the trail, but stream-side. It's a great site and it became an even better one when he gave me one of his mountain house meals to lighten his load. I devoured it with some of my mashed potatoes. Good dinner.

Time for bed, getting close.

Gnite.

Day 130

2012-07-24T09:24:00.001-07:00

(2084.8/99.4) Hiked 15 miles and renting at Long Pond Stream Lean-to. MPD 16.03

What a busy day! I woke up early because the fan was too loud. I didn't sleep enough, but that's what tonight's for. I woke up in the middle of the night last night and for a moment I thought I was in my tent. I then realized I was in a bed indoors and struggled to fall back asleep as the fan whizzed on.

The morning breakfast at Shaw's was a neat experience. The hostel is a big house and the dining area was three tables, enough for about 20 people. I arrived for the second seating at 7:30am and sat down with two sobos, one, a mother of six from the Santa Fe area. The breakfast functioned as follows, you would say a number between 1-4 and they would bring you that many of blueberry pancakes, bacon, sausage, eggs, and hash browns. There was OJ and coffee available too. Everything was tasty and I ate my fill, two "4s" and a few scraps from the sobos plates that they didn't want to waste. "Feed it to the Nobo!"

After breaky I walked back to the Lakeshore hostel and did my work for stay. I must say that the Lakeshore hostel seemed much better than Shaw's from what I could see. Lakeshore had everything one would need, and it sat on the lake, whereas Shaw's was on a side street. The Lakeshore also is a pub, restaurant, and laundromat downstairs and the upstairs is all hiker domain with a room serving as a resupply store with everything a hiker would need. If it isn't there, check the hiker boxes. There were street clothes available, movies aplenty, a clean bathroom and shower, and two laptops with wifi. I think it's one of the best hiker hostels on the trail.

The work for stay was my hardest yet. I worked from 9am to 11:30am scrubbing the decks and stairs with bleach, watering plants, cleaning doors with slats, and covering up the paddle boat with a tarp. It was fair.

I didn't however get to the trail until 11:50am and actually started around noon. This affected by mileage only allowing me to do 15 today instead of the planned 19, but this shelter has a water source and it's rumored that the next few do not.

Entering the 100 mile wilderness was pretty cool as there was a sign serving as a warning: Recommended 10 days worth of provisions and difficulty hiking ahead. So far it's been great. Lake after lake and streams and ponds are abundant. The trail isn't too muddy and the bugs haven't been to bad. I'm enjoying the scenery.

There were a few fords today, but I didn't get wet. One was meant to soak me, but I escaped. I was crossing and about ten feet from shore there was a boulder to boulder gap of about five feet. Between this gap rushed water a few feet deep and quick enough to pull you with it. I came to this point without realizing it and decided to go for it. I took my poles and tossed them to shore and then I took off my pack. With my pack I held it by the main strap at the top middle and swung it back and forth like a pendulum. The landing strip was a giant boulder too big to miss, as long as the distance was right. I swung the pack back and forth and back and 'flung,' it hopped out of my hand and landed safely on the boulder. Now it was my turn. Another hiker, Tuesday, was watching me from about 30 yards down stream where he had crossed in bare feet like a normal hiker. We made gestures back and forth; he shrugged at me and I rubbed my hands together as if to signal a warmup. I leaped and hit the mark catching myself on the side of the boulder and my right foot just smacked the surface of the water enough to wet the top of the boulder I had landed on. Safely across, I put my gear back on and trudged onward.

Tuesday and I made it to the current lean-to about 7:20pm, made dinner and enjoyed the lack of bugs. He works for REI in Yonkers, NY and is on a short vacation allowing him to hike the wilderness. Day 1 for him and day 130 for me. He could probably tell by my slow response to questions, but fast hiking.

I'm on target for a shorter day on Saturday to the Birches with a Sunday summit. Tuesday and Wednesday will be tough, but past that it should be pie. Hope I make it in time for pie.

Gnite.

Day 129

2012-07-22T19:16:00.001-07:00

(2069.7/114.5) Hiked 18 miles and staying at Lakeshore Hostel in Monson, ME. MPD 16.04

I'm on the edge of the 100 mile wilderness. I guess there are a few places within it to eat and sleep if one were so inclined. I have five days of food and no intention to slow down until I get to Abol Bridge, 14 miles from Katahdin.

Today had several fords. I took my shoes and socks off, had my pack towel handy and waded across carefully. The water reached my knees on two of them and mid-thigh on the last one. After the last one I found a cooler with two sodas left in it, I took the mountain dew and left the coke.

The fords were fine, but they did require more time as I had to dry my feet off and put my socks and shoes back on, etc. each time.

The 18 miles went by fairly quick, I started up at 7:45am and got into Monson at 3:45pm. Not bad. The hiking was mostly along the river and it didn't get too mucky until the last four miles or so. A beaver dam forced a reroute of .5 or so and the trail was a sloppy mess. The slop was prime breeding ground for mosquitoes. The black flies were savage and attacked my face without pity. When I did stop for water or to go to the bathroom, etc. they would launch a full scale attack on my eye balls and ears. Smart buggers, hit 'em while he's down. I was also investigated fully by moose flies as they scoured every centimeter of my head. I periodically swiped at them and on one occasion caught three in one fistful--their ending was not a happy one.

The town was nice to get to though. I arranged a work for stay with the owner and I'll be putting in two hours of work tomorrow after breaky. I'm planning on having Shaw's AYCE for 8 bucks to start the day off right.

The hostel tonight is full of sobos and a few nobos. It's funny because the sobos are all so excited to hike and experience more of the trail, like puppies really. And us nobos, like tired old dogs mostly want to be left alone. A few of us are more apt to play and answer questions, check packs, talk gear, etc., but mostly those that have had a full night's rest in a bed and a belly full of meat. I am headed in that direction thanks to the local smokehouse owner who brought about five lbs. of pulled pork over for us hikers to make disappear.

Great little town, excited for breaky and this last week on trail. Be patient for posts, I'll do my best to keep 'em coming. Time for some shut eye.

Gnite.

Day 128

2012-07-22T13:21:00.003-07:00

(2051.8/132.4) Hiked 19 miles and tenting at Moxie Bald Lean-to. MPD 16.03

I woke up unhappy about my Nero yesterday, but determined to make up for it today. I made it up and over two ranges today and ended at a great tent site next to Moxie Pond. There is a loon calling out in the distance, sounds very cool. I have a great view of the giant pond about 20 feet to my port side. The mosquitoes are buzzing against the bug netting of my tent, an unsettling noise that I don't plan to become comfortable around, at least not in the foreseeable future.

The hiking today went by really quickly. I did a five-mile section to a shelter this morning and took a 30-minute break chatting with a few sobos--B-Rubble and Goat. Then I climbed Pleasant Pond Mountain which was a steep and rocky ascent. I heard it described as "violent," but wouldn't go that far. The backside of it was a roller coaster and I ran into a few hikers that were showing signs of desperation at not haunt yet reached the peak. It was evident in their questions, "when does this f'n thing top out?!" Ah, the sobos, beginning to learn the ways of mountain trekking.

After Pleasant Pond's rhythm section, it was a few miles to another shelter at the base of Moxie Bald. I stopped there for a snack and some water, read the introduction to a book of Jack London short stories and picked up a rubber chicken to take along to the next shelter. So there's a rubber chicken with a bear bell around its neck that has been passed from Nobo to Nobo like a torch all the way from Springer Mountain in Georgia and it's only about 130 miles from its destination.

Moxie Bald was a fun climb. The moss was worn down to the rock on the path of the ascent making it look like a narrow sidewalk up the mountain. Once atop, you hiked on your toes up a steep, smooth rock face that was cascading down the top of the mountain. There were dead trees, evergreens, and beautiful views surrounding me and the clouds were just massive bunches of cotton with dusty bottoms. I had some of my best views ever on top of Moxie today, what a lucky hiker!

The shelter is set at the base of Moxie next to a pond. I ate dinner with two sobos, Lord-Willing and Yeti. They both recommended Lakeshore Hostel in Monson and I may try a work for stay there. It would be convenient because I would only hike three miles past Monson if I just pass through tomorrow. It might be worth to try a work for stay and start the 100 Mile Wilderness Monday morning.

From Monson tomorrow at mile 114 to Abol Bridge at mile 14, I'll be in the 100 Mile Wilderness. Once out, I'll be staying at "The Birches" at mile 5 and from there I summit Katahdin. I've been lucky with cell service thus far, and I don't expect any luck in the wilderness, but I've been wrong before. Anyways, my plan is to stay at the Birches on Saturday night and summit Katahdin on Sunday, July 29th--just an estimate!

Time to sleep. Gnite.

Day 127

2012-07-22T13:21:00.001-07:00

(2034/150.2) Hiked 5 miles and tenting near Holly Brook. MPD 16.01

Woke up and got going this morning by 8am. Made it to the Kennebec river by 9:45am. The river has a hydroelectric plant upstream from it and the current and depth can change drastically in an instant so fording is prohibited. The official AT crossing method is via canoe. When I arrived at the 70 yard-wide river, a man on the other side wave and pulled the canoe into the river, hopped in, and paddled right over. I stood and watched throwing large handfuls of gorp in my mouth and chewing aggressively as he glided through the calm water like a ghost..

I signed the release, put on my life-vest and climbed in. We paddled across in less than three minutes and enjoyed the puffy white clouds as well as their reflections in the river. Hard to believe that with the flip of a lever the rapids change from class 1 to class 4--good for tourism, bad for hikers.

Once across I hiked .4 to the road, crossed, and continued down a side street that I would later find out to be Caratunk, ME. Most of the houses were dilapidated and for sale, a few well-kept ones stood proudly like army generals amidst shell-shocked marines with multiple amputations. I kept on down the road, walking over a short road bridge with a strong river crashing over giant boulders. The post office was .2 past the bridge and a proud sight. It was the work of fine carpentry and I was glad to gaze upon it before entering. I charged my phone and picked up my package, even emptied my trash and topped off my water bottle before leaving. The post master was the kindest woman I've ever encountered in a postal uniform.

Once back to route 201 I hitched two miles west to Northern Outdoors, a resort for those who seek relaxation. When I arrived I saw a buddy from Ohio who was visiting his brother who has a cabin on the area. What a coincidence! He asked if I'd like to stay the night, I agreed and then he left saying he'd be back later on to pick me up. In the meantime I showered, did laundry, and soaked in the hot tub while reading White Fang and drinking ice waters. I had lunch and continued reading in the shade while my clothes--stretched out on the grass--dried in the sun.

After I finished with the clothes and I was clean and satiated, I spent more time in the hot tub answering questions and telling stories about the trail. I was never short of people asking questions and listening eagerly for recommendations, etc.

Later in the evening I changed into my hiking clothes and hung out inside on a plush couch with moose heads and big screens looming above me. Around 8:15pm I realized that my friend wasn't coming and I decided to head back to the trail. Luckily, I had been taking with two sisters who were there taking in the sights and they offered me a ride back to the trail. Once again, the kindness of strangers amazes me. Before the ride, they even offered to buy me a burger and a beer, but I declined not feeling good about accepting so much.

The ride back to the trail got me there just in time for dark. I put on my headlamp and ventured into the unknown not knowing how for I'd go. I made it about a mile before finding a well-established tent site. I hung my bear bag, pitched my tent, and finished White Fang. Time for bed.

Gnite.

Day 126

2012-07-20T08:33:00.001-07:00

(2029/155.2) Hiked 23 miles and tenting at Pierce Pond Shelter. MPD 16.1

Today was a big mile day and I'm feeling the fatigue of a 23 miler and then some. Feet are sore and I'm in the mood to eat pork and drink tons of lemonade.

Little Bigelow this morning gave me a great view of the rest of his family and to the north the huge lakes I would walk along. I sat and had a snack with those views while puffy clouds sailed in..

Stopping at Little Bigelow Lean-to for a bathroom break, I discovered their privy had two toilets next to each other... I ended up hiking a few pounds of trash out of that shelter as my bag is real light and the shelter was full of garbage. Felt good to help out.

The 2,000 mile road sign was at mile 2015, better late than never. It was still neat to see and I took a break shortly after, already thinking at 13 miles in that I was beat.

The trail eased up this afternoon and was pretty flat with a lot of bogs and pines. I walked along one long pond that had a sandy beach about 15 feet wide--beautiful view.

One of the boardwalks I walked was three planks wide, instead of the standard two, and it was also pretty new. As I walked it admiring the craftsmanship I looked over at the inlet I was crossing and there, about 50 yards away, was a female moose! I watched her bathe and eat snapping a few pics and a video until she became bored with my presence and decided to move on. She was a gentle giant and her head alone must weigh 50 pounds. What an impressive mammal.

The lean-to I'm staying near tonight is on a pond and has a great view. The pond is sadly where the hiker drowned a few weeks ago and there's a bit of wood with his name, "Parkside RIP" carved into it next to the entrance to the water. Sad story.

I'm off to bed. Too tired to write more and need to sleep. Caratunk tomorrow morning and maybe even a hot tub!

Gnite.

Day 125

2012-07-18T16:23:00.001-07:00

(2006.4/177.8) Hiked 17.7 miles and tenting at Safford Notch. MPD 16.05

There is a lot of action outside my tent tonight. The campsite I'm at is .3 off trail and is marked with a Bear Warning sign. I hung my bear bag with toiletries, etc. so I shouldn't have anything to worry about. While I was eating dinner I saw a black, ferret-like mammal creeping around--he was long and slender, about the length of a house cat. I heard the name for them a week back, forgotten for now..

The campsite hasn't seen much life lately as the trails to the tent sites and the water source are overgrown. The blue blazes are faded as well, it has the feel of a place that saw its prime and is now all but forgotten. But why? The water source is excellent, very cold and clear water off a fast stream about 100 yards from my tent site. Huge boulders the size of garages are all around, I'd love to do some bouldering if I wasn't so tired, or cautious... The privy, having not been frequented actually smells more like the wood it's constructed with than its contents, a welcomed rarity. Perhaps the bear warning signs, or the fact that it's nestled between little Bigelow and Avery Peak, both of which have their own shelter sites. I did have the little Bigelow site in mind, but a 23 mile down with the mountains I climbed today, would have left me near dead.

I started off at 8am and climbed the Crockers this morning. They're both 4,000-foot peaks separated by a one-mile golf a few hundred feet deep. They are both without views but offer side trails. The first peak i hit at 8:45am and the sky wasn't clouded over and there was no view to be had. As I made my way to the second peak, the sun came out! What a fantastic feeling, not having seen the sun for over a day and there it was! (You might not think a day without sun is not long, but when it's a day spent entirely outdoors, it seems much more significant.) One noteworthy part of these peaks is that they are both crowned with pines that are left to grow freely and overshadow the trail. I don't mind the scratch or poke of a pine branch, but when wet, they are as effective at soaking you as a drive-thru car wash brush. I made it to the second peak, shoes, socks, and both sides of my body soaked--my middle, dry--, but the sun was out and I had climbed my first of two mountain ranges for the day.

The climb down from Crocker was a few miles Nd a few thousand feet down, it wasn't too steep, but I did plenty of hopping and pole touching to cushion my longer jumps down from boulders.

The second range was the Bigelows. I didn't make it out of the Bigelows, I did the first three peaks, and the fourth, and smallest, is set for tomorrow morning. The three peaks were spectacular, rewarding 360 degree views of cloud-piercing mountains, huge amoeba-shaped lakes and zigzagging rivers. On top of that, the upcoming Bigelows were all clearly visible and majestically peaked. Breathtaking and exciting to see where you'll be hiking to and climbing up next. A great range.

Tomorrow, I'm pushing a 22-miler to Pierce Pond to set me up with an easy 5-miler into Caratunk on Friday morning.

Over 2,000 miles now! There is a famous 2,000-mile marker about six miles north of me. It's painted on a back road that I'll cross so it's never been relocated. The symbolic mile markers are more meaningful than the true mileage. I didn't even realize I had hiked past 2,000 until I stopped atop Avery peak at 2,004 to take a video. (Vid to be posted once I'm home.)

Gnite.

Day 124

2012-07-17T17:20:00.001-07:00

(1988.7/195.5) Hiked 17 miles and tenting at Crocker Cirque. MPD 16.03

Well tomorrow I'll hit 2,000 miles and will have earned my 2,000 miler patch. Feels good. Despite the rain today I've been in high spirits..

Woke up to rain. Put my ear plugs back in and slept another hour. Doesn't seem like I can sleep enough, but my bed will be here soon enough--with pillows and blankets and more than 2 inches of thickness!

The rain made my morning routine interesting. I did everything that I usually do, pack up, eat breaky, brush teeth, change into hiking clothes, etc. but I did it all inside my tent. I broke down the tent last and rolled it up into a giant soggy burrito. Unfortunately I never got the right weather to dry it out today so I had to pitch it wet this evening. No sun today, maybe tomorrow.

The trail was easy on me today though. There was plenty of pine forests to walk through and those needles can be so soft and squishy. The rocks were wet coming down Saddleback Junior and I had to toss my poles down and hike down with my hands to aid me-- too slippery otherwise. I slipped on a big rock as I crossed a stream today and fell flat on my ass. All I could think to do was laugh. Once I got up and slipped again as I planted my feet, I growled at the boulder--maybe I'm reading too much Jack London lately...

The climbs weren't bad and the shelters were welcome to break up the day. I did about five miles to the first one where I ate a few snacks, investigated the items people had left (sunglasses, pants, shirts, whistles, etc.), and then hiked eight more to the next shelter. There were six people in it and a dog so I had company, finally. Two of them were sobos that my mom had said hi to on their blog so when I introduced myself, they became real excited and said they had been waiting to meet me. Good times.

The last few miles were fairly smooth rolling until I started down Sugarloaf. What a mean downhill, glad I'm not sobo. It was a thick vein of boulders, tree roots, stumps, and downed trees carved into the side of the mountain and my only escape. It slowed my pace down dramatically, but knowing that the campsite was only two miles from the bottom made it easier to stomach.

FYI, I'm about seven miles south of Stratton, ME for those of you looking at a map. I should be in Caratunk by Friday morning.

Alone again tonight, but I'm dry and warm. Can't ask for much more than that. Let's hope I wake up to silence, aka no rain clattering against my tent.

Gnite.

Day 123

2012-07-16T16:14:00.001-07:00

(1971.8/212.4) Hiked 17.5 miles and tenting at Redington Stream Campsite. MPD 16.03

It is my four month anniversary! What a day it was. I left later than planned, but I made good speed to the road, some five miles away. I met a sobo hiker en route who has been sick with stomach issues--he's the third hiker I've met in two days with the same story..

The hitch into Rangeley was easy. I was standing there in the rain with my sad face and arm bent, thumb out pointing westward when a new pickup drove by. He fly by and kept on going. Jeez, I thought. How easy would it be to give someone a ride of you own a pickup, you wouldn't even have to smell 'em. Well, sure enough, about two minutes later the guilt seed had sprouted and the pickup came back around to ask my where I was headed.

I got in the truck and the two guys in front offered me
a bag or tortilla chips and a jar of salsa. So there I was, chips n salsa, out of the rain, gettin' a ride to town. Lovin' life.

The rain passed by the time we arrived in Rangeley, a small tourist town thriving off of the nearby lakes and mountains for tourism. There was a sign posted that said Rangeley, Maine is "exactly" halfway between the equator and the north pole. Gives you an idea of how much north country is up there if I'm in Maine, but only halfway to the pole.

I went to a pizza joint for lunch named the Red Onion. I asked for a pitcher of water, large mushroom n broccoli pizza, and a plate of nachos. I ate it all, minus the crusts which I brought along for the hike and ate for dinner tonight--breadsticks, you see!

I left my pack outside and phone charging at a place called Ecopelagicon. If you ever get up to Maine, this is the store to visit! Artwork of birds and moose, and wind chimes, and feeders, sports gear, hiker equipment, artwork, a wood burning stove and hardwood throughout. Great people working there too. I charged my phone and set my tent up outside to dry in the sun.

After lunch I hit the post office where I picked up Scout Troop 367's resupply they sent me. Wow! Is my first response, they took the brown's to the Super Bowl with this one. I got four days of good eats ahead of me: pistachios, almonds, apricots, chicken, drink mixes, batteries, hand wipes...I may have to hike the PCT after this one so I can keep getting showered with boxes of treats. Thank you scouts, your fuel will be used accordingly to keep me chugging up and down moutains. You did well.

I left town at 3:45 and started on the trail just after 4pm. My goal was eight miles ahead and the ugly, grey clouds were drifting further away, so kept on. I hiked two miles to a shelter and stopped to top off water. Still six to go. From there I huffed up giant boulders, rock steps, and smooth faces to be start of Saddleback mountain. It seemed to come on in waves at that point; I would see what I thought to be the crest of the mountain and once I reached it another crest was a few hundred yards away, and so on several times over. Above tree line and with plenty of wind at my back, I made it to the peak and took in the views of surrounding and distant mountains and the lakes thrown out around me. Three miles away. At the peak of Saddleback, 4,100 feet, you look down a strip of bare rock that plunges 1,200 feet downward before rising up again to another peak, "The Horn," which rises 4,000 feet, sitting 1.7 miles away. I started down the steep slope and then back up again, making the peak of The Horn at 7:15pm. From there it was about a mile down to the Redington Campsite, 3,000 feet. I'm in my tent now, but I could see my breath before getting in. The wind is still blowing, but I have my ear plugs in so I should sleep well.

About two weeks till Katahdin!

Gnite.

Day 122

2012-07-16T16:11:00.001-07:00

(1954.4/229.8) Hiked 20 miles and renting at Sabbath Day Pond Lean-to. MPD 16.02

Tonight is my second night alone in a row. It's weird because ever since I got to Maine I feel alone. I still see a few people every day, but no nobos, only sectioners and sobos. I prefer to come into camp and have someone around, at least then my imagination wouldn't run so wild.

Tonight it's finally raining. It's very light, but he ground is showing signs of desperation for it. I don't mind the lack of rain because there are still streams, not abundant, but occasional, and I don't have to ford the streams that usual require it. Also, the muddy sections are all but dried up and this makes me happy.

Today started with Moody mountain, a steep climb up and a gradual down. The climb up was impressively steep. There were rebar stairs and handrails at several points to help you climb up. There was a great deal of plastic ribbons in assorted colors tied around trees indicating areas that needed trail work: stone steps or wooden curbs, etc.

The rest of the day wasn't as bad as Moody. I came to a creek that I was able to step across on the stones and I found a falling jug of water on the other side courtesy of a local hostel. I should note that over the past few days with temps in the high 80s/90s and big miles, I've been drinking about six liters of water a day. That's a few more than usual, but I need it. I'm plowing through my water treatment too, and I hope I can make it to Caratunk where my mom sent my backup. Anyways, free water this morning was glorious.

I saw a few snakes that I'm not too sure about. Both were bigger than garders, I'll need to ID them with a book. Thousands of frogs along the trail and they are all different colors and sizes.

Maine is more rugged in that the trees aren't trimmed along the trail. There are plenty of blazes though, it'd be a challenge to get lost in this state compared to NH.

Tomorrow ill be in Rangeley to pick up my boy scout resupply and then climb the Saddlebacks. There are a few more small ranges between here and Katahdin: the Saddlebacks, Crockers, and Bigelows. Not too much more difficult climbing, but I'm sure she'll surprise me as always.

Gnite.

Day 121

2012-07-15T07:50:00.001-07:00

(1934.7/249.5) Hiked 15.5 miles and tenting at Sawyer Notch. MPD 15.99

The elevation looked good for today and it was. It started off with a steep climb up Mt. Baldpate, scrambling up smooth rock found following the cairns to the peak. I made it up there without too much effort and the view made for an auspicious morning.

I went down the other side quickly, wanting to make the shelter as soon as possible. The trail wasn't steep to the lean-to, but it was overgrown and the frequency with which pine branches probed my face and head as I darted through tight corridors is better left unsaid. The shelter had a steady stream just beneath it and down a short path, and I made good use of it drinking two liters as I sat about. I took an hour break to rest and read as the sun reached its peak height for the day.

Soon after I hit the trail with a swift pace and a hungry attitude that died too young. I had already done a few miles when the first fly buzzed past. I didn't think too much of it, choosing to ignore is more soothing than entertaining the prospect of what might lay ahead. (Much the same approach to the first sound of distant thunder as one tells oneself innocent lies to shield the oncoming turmoil as long as seems fair.)

The fly was curious, as they all seem to be, and in began by poking in my ear to look around before landing on my head to dig in its tiny-clawed feet. I could feel the suction cup going past my hair follicles and stamping down onto my scalp. Smack! I went for it. Too eager this time, too much haste. I am smarter than the fly, I must act like it.

As I considered my strategies, another one flew out of the shadowy gulf between the trees and dive bombed my head at aggressive speed. As I braced for impact the other fly again entered my ear, this time zinging loudly as he shot out and avoided my hand. The black flies seemed all too interested in me as well as I had stopped at this point, dropping my poles to the ground and cursing the sky above me as I flailed my arms furiously at the tiny beasts. I decided to move on when the mosquitoes joined in.

Too many adversaries I thought, let's see how they fare with me on the run. I swooped down rocky stairs, skimming the edges of pine trees and shredded birch bark. I ducked under down trees milliseconds before getting to them and I maintained a solid 3mph. Just when I thought victory was mine, I was assailed by three flies at once! Big, dark bastardly flies without the fear of man... I pushed on for the next hour and a half while they played water torture on my head. Drop. Drop. Drop. Finally, after they had their fill, they left me to clumsily roam onward, drunk with mental fatigue and sun-baked despair.

I made it to Sawyer notch about 6:15pm and instead of pushing on, I called it quits. I built a fire and threw leaves on, smoking the wolvish, winged fiends back, back.

They didn't bother my whilst I ate and now that I'm in my tent, I feel safe. Big day tomorrow. They all are big from here on out. 16 a day, will get me there on time. Less than 250 to go.

From a peaceful slumber base in the middle of a war zone, I write thee.

Adios.

Day 120

2012-07-14T06:15:00.001-07:00

(1919.3/264.9) Hiked 17 miles and tenting at Baldpate Lean-to. MPD 15.99

Woke up to teenagers from Quebec yelling in French and a band of girl scouts playing a paddy-cake game. The boys were yelling "shut up," and the girls responded, "your English sucks. All you can say is 'shut up' and 'vagina.'" I looked at my watch, 6:57am. Please no... I wanted to sleep in today! Then I remembered I was in Maine and got up.

I left camp at 9am after getting my boy scout package forwarded to a town a few miles north of Andover. The trail was awesome today, tons of mountains to view from the five or six peaks I was atop. Plenty of climbing with rebar, wooden steps, smooth rock, and other types of challenges.

The first few miles of Maine gave me more technical difficulty at a few points, than anything else I've encountered. Giant boulders that have steps cut into them but not within four feet of the ground, for example.

The white-throated sparrows were singing nonstop for the first half of my day. I also saw about 50 frogs of different sizes and colors leaping to and fro.

The mountains are abundant in this part of Maine and we made sure to hit most of them today. I did a lot for one day and I'm feeling it tonight. Sore feet.

The Mahoosuc notch was an incredible experience. Both difficult and fun, it was a mile long pit of enormous boulders, some as big as a house. They were all shaken up and left on awkward angles and the white blazes led through the center of the pit. It took me about an hour to hike the mile and it was really technical. A lot of using my poles for balance as I stepped down a few feet to the next boulder. At points it was cold enough in the notch that you could see your breathe. I checked under some rocks and found ice! The temperature today was in the 80s, but at points my whole body was steaming. It was really fun.

The Mahoosic Arm was right after the notch and it shot up 1,600 feet to a ridge. The arm was a gnarly climb up smooth rock, tree roots, and boulders. I came across Skeeter and Polaris halfway up and I talked to them for a minute. Skeeter wasn't feeling good and Polaris had recently dislocated his shoulder. Rough times. I later ran into Eagle Eye whose cell phone had recently died. Another hard time.

The last few miles were uphill to the shelter, but I'm glad I pushed it. Today was big, hopefully I'll rest well and hit it big again tomorrow.

Gnite.