Hudson Doyle's travel blog

2026 Berlin to Catania, Siciliy

2026-10-17T15:34:43.277-04:00

2026
Berlin to Catania, Siciliy
3,100 miles / 5,000 KM over 2 months

the last 3 trips

2024 European bicycle tour, in video

2024-09-23T16:13:00.010-04:00

This bicycle tour was 3730 miles / 6000km over 11 weeks, from May to August 2024. Bandirma, Turkey to Berlin, Germany.

This was the first bicycle tour in which I recorded video. As I put so much effort into producing these videos, this blog post will consist of videos from most of the countries that I cyccled through.

Turkey

I cycled 680 miles in 11 days

Some of the places I visited: Istanbul, Bandirma, Balikesir, Soma, Izmir, Kusadasi, Didum, Bodrum, Marmaris, Dalyan, Gocek, Fethiye, Oludeniz, Kas

I cycled as far south east as I could and still catch a boat back over the Greek Islands. The last climb was 4000ft and took me two hours to ascend.

After 22 years of cycle touring I think I'm finally getting used to it. Not to say my back doesn't hurt or that I'm not sometimes dying climbing steep mountains, but I have not had the day after butt soreness that I have had the previous 20+ years

Cycling on the Greek islands

From Turkey I took ferries to Kastelorizo, Rodos, Symi, and Crete.

I arrived Crete at 7pm but decided to make some progress and cycled up a mountain to a small village before sunset where I was able to eat and find a place to camp on an abandoned rooftop over looking the mountains.

Temps have been well over 100f/38c but I have been able to swim in the Mediterranean every day. The water color here is spectacular.

Peloponnese mountains, Greece

A 30+ minute descent in the Peloponnese mountains to the Carpathian sea in Greece

Greece

I spent 21 days in Greece. Temps were around 100 through the afternoons and winds generally against me.

Cycling in Greece was amazing. Some of the best cycling of my life. The Ionian coast is stunning. My new favorite restaurant to add to your bucket list The scenery is spectacular.

https://maps.app.goo.gl/HWqerQ3zFyU3ih4U9

Albania

My 10th day in a row cycling and my 2nd day in Albania was brutal. After a morning of about 3000' of climbing steep hills, it was another 3000' up Llogara pass with temps up to 44/110f and hardly any shade.

I found Albania quite dirty. With lots of trash and dead animals on the roads.

By far the most common car I saw were (black) Mercedes. Mostly stolen from Germany I'm told.

1 day climb in Montenegro

A one day 1800 meter climb over 85 KM in Montenegro. I ended up camping on the side of the road in the mountains.

Montenegro

Bosnia

Croatia

Austria

I sure do love cycling in the mountains. And the Alps do not disappoint.

Moving north from the Balkans the quality of cycling infrastructure gets so much better. With the bicycle paths it was such a pleasure to cycle in Italy and Austria.

Cycling in Austria is exquisite. Everything is so well cared for- the roads, bike paths, tunnels, bridges, gardens, houses, farms. Everything is neat and tidy and beautiful amongst the mountains.

The ubiquity of fresh, clean water in Austria makes cycling there so much easier. You don't have to think about managing water or even consider buying plastic.

Czech Republic

Poland

2022 European bicycle tour photo summary

2022-10-04T00:36:00.011-04:00

In the end this bicycle tour from Lisbon, Portugal to Istanbul, Turkey was 5,500 miles/8,850 kilometers over 3.75 months

The western most point of Europe. Faro do Cabo Carvoero, Portugal.

Ecopista de Vouga, Portugal

Pinhao, Portugal

Segovia, Spain

Family wine caves. Maradillo de Roa, Spain

Frias, Spain

Bilbao, Spain

Itxaspe, Spain

temps during the first 2022 summer heat wave in Europe

San Sebastian, Spain

Le Petit Nice, France

Château de Chambord, Chambord, France

Underpass in France

Nyon, Switzerland

Watching the Tour de France pass in Le Brassus, Switzerland

Mouthier-Haute-Pierre, France

Canton d'Ornans, France

Freiburg, Germany . The city I observed with the most bicycles

Black Forest, St. Märgen, Germany

Black Forestt, Germany

Schleitheim, Switzerland

Pedestrian/bicycle underpass in Schaffhausen, Switzerland

Rhine Falls, Switzerland. Largest waterfall in continental Europe

Equestrian Competition in Bavaria, Germany

Landsberg am Lech, Germany

Surfing in Munich, Germany

Kochel am See, Germany

The Alps, Wallgau, Germany

Seefeld, Austria

the Alps, Bolzano, Italy

Via Claudia Augusta, Italy

Garda lake, Italy

Verona, Italy

Santa Croce, the Dolemites, Italy

Lake Barcis, the Dolemites, Italy

the Soca river, Slovenia

Vrhnika, Slovenia

Slovenia

Warmshowers stay in Vrhnika, Slovenia

Blagovica, Slovenia

vines of hops, Celje, Slovenia

Vojnik, Slovenia

Slovenia

the Danube, Slovakia

Warmshowers hosts in Strekov, Slovakia

Sziget Festival, Budapest, Hungary

Budapest, Hungary

Tihany, Lake Balaton, Hungary

Hungary

Serbia

Tesla Museum, Belgrade, Serbia

Salina Turda salt mine, Turda, Romania

Transylvania mountains, Romania

Transalpina, Transylvania, Romania

Obârşia Lotrului, Romania, Transylvania, Romania

Transfăgărășan road, Transylvania, Romania

Troyan, Bulgaria

Plovidv, Bulgaria

Roman theatre of Philippopolis built in the first century. Discovered by excavation in the 1960s. The oldest Roman theater in use today

Asenovgrad, Bulgaria

Rhodope Mountains, Bulgaria

fresh water in the Rhodope Mountains, Bulgaria

Devin, Rhodope Mountains, Bulgaria

Rhodope Mountains, Bulgaria

Sapes, Greece

Therma, Samothraki, Greece

Gallipoli peninsula, Canakkale, Turkey

Bandirma, Turkey

Istanbul, Turkey

Cycling in Turkey

2022-10-01T18:26:00.001-04:00

After crossing into Turkey and having lunch in the bustling city Keşan, I turned south towards the peninsula of Gallipoli.

I turned south west, right in to the wind coming off the Aegean. A line of wind farms indicated to me that the wind is heavy and consistent here. Then when I turned north east 2 days later, almost comically, the wind was also from the north east--another direct head wind. And there were again wind farms in the mountains indicating how heavy and consistent the wind was in this region 😂.... it made for a hard slog of a finish to the trip. It's never easy!

Despite what the wealthy of Cape Cod, MA may say about wind turbines being an eye sore, I think they are beautiful. Especially because of what they represent--including a viable future for us on the planet.

Ironically, just beyond the mountain ridge windfarms, were a nuclear and coal fired power plants. As I gazed at them I observed a procession of 18 wheeler dump trucks arriving with loads of coal and others leaving for more. So gross. So wasteful. All so that, for example, city shops can run their AC with the doors wide open, letting the AC rush out without regard for what environmental impact it has....

My route through the peninsula of Gallipoli took me on a rural road through farms and small villages.

Reaching back to the straight of Dardanelles, I had to take a short ferry to the city of Çanakkale.

Cannakale

Some marked differences I noticed in Turkey include: the almost constant sound of men preying over the loud speakers positioned atop mosque minarets scattered around every city and town. Women wearing hijab and burkas. Everyone @ cafes drinks black tea, almost exclusively.

I stayed with a fellow via warmshowers in a small city, Biga and then finished cycling, into the wind, by going to the city of Bandirma, on the south side of the sea of Marmara. Where I would catch a ferry across to Istanbul. And boy was I glad I did not attempt to cycle into Istanbul - it is a mega city. From the ferry I could see some of the length of the city and it is so massive. So many downtown clusters of large buildings. Over 15 million people.

(From inside the boat)

In Istanbul

I did not wait in the multi hour line of the Hagia Sophia mosque, in the distance here. Istanbul is super touristy.

Balaclava for miles

Garlic

Man selling fish by cart in the city

On my last night of the trip, I met a coworker of a friend of mine in Boston for dinner. He happened to be in Istanbul when I was and was interested in meeting. And he spared no expense on me. We had by far the fanciest dinner and drinks of my trip @ his hotel. The view from dinner below.

Cycling in Bulgaria

2022-09-19T16:52:00.001-04:00

Picking plums from the side of the road

City of Plovdiv

Roman theatre of Philippopolis, built in the first century, discovered by excavation in the 1960s, oldest Roman theater in use today.

The Rhodope mountains

Plenty of cool fresh water

I was very surprised by the variety of salads and vegetables in Bulgaria.

Cycling in Greece

2022-09-19T16:33:00.002-04:00

I did not intend to travel to Greece but here I am.

First time I've crossed a border at the top of mountain. What's more, the Bulgarian immigration officer and Greek officer sat in adjacent booths, one structure right next to the other, to pass my passport through both windows to the other for stamping 😆

Then I had amazing mountain top descent, dropping 1600 feet with unobstructed views of the ocean 30miles in the distance and mountains all around. I coasted down with minimal traffic, mesmerized by the view

The agriculture changed to cotton

And tobacco

Saw tortoises cross the road

I strolled into a small town, Sapes, meandering to find a drink or something to eat when two guys invite, insist! I join them for beers on a sidewalk table in front of one guy's butchery. They end up buying me 4 beers and 2 sandwiches from the restaurant next door and chaperoned me over to the only hotel in town (where I was going to stay anyway) to cover my stay for the night. So hospitable! They assured me that "Greece is paradise!" a dozen times.

They also suggested I go to Samothrace

"paradise in paradise" they assured me. So I said okay, I'll check it out. A 2 hour ferry from Alexandroupoli.

Turns out to be a nudist island.

I stayed at a "free camping" site. By a nude beach. But basically any beach is a nude beach here. As are the waterfalls, rivers, and hot springs. Where you will indubitably encounter people naked during the day.... So I followed suit 😁

The natural hot springs

And river, waterfalls, pools

I ctually really enjoyed my few days here. There is good vegetarian food and the live music at night has been very good. Never have I ever met so many people while naked.

Closest things I've experienced to this vibe are Burner festivals (Firefly, Burning man) and Zipolite, Oaxaca, México.

Cycling in Romania

2022-09-11T14:19:00.002-04:00

this is up to Sibiu, Romania

Soon after crossing from Serbia into Romania I pulled over to have a drink inside a gas station minimart. All of a sudden a rush of women and children enter. I noticed one girl really staring at me so I approached her to ask where they were coming from/going and she said "back to Ukraine".... I told her what I am doing. And we wished each other good luck 🙏

In Serbia and Romania, a number of times I have been startled by a car jumping out from the opposite direction to pass a car and getting awfully close to me at high speed. It's like that haunted house fright but with real fear for life mixed with anger for the asshole disrespectfing my existence. I once had to jump off the road. And I go 20mph, not slow.

Power plants

I stayed a with a guy my age in his condo in a big apartment building in Timisoara, Romania. He was pretty boring but his building was a trip. The communist era building was sold by the government to individual owners to raise money for the government and transition to a private real estate market. But the design was horrible. The elevator barely fit 2 people.

And the shower was ridiculous. You had to practically jump over the tub wall to get in (infirm/elderly 🚫) and the shower holder was placed about 4 feet off the ground. Around my hip.

At least the windows were modern and well constructed. A style I've only seen in Europe where they open both vertically as well as horizontally.

Timisoara. Capital of the former Transylvania

Movie in the Plaza

Bars and festivals along the river

Ever seen a corner toilet?

At this point I started contemplating a very challenging route through the Carpathian mountains. There are 2 famous high mountain passes, the Transplania and the Transfăgărășan, and I'm thinking of doing both of them 🤯

Many people collect there drinking water from these taps. Very helpful for the traveling cyclist

Haha oh man... I was crushing it cycling up a gentle hill stoned in the hot sun to reach this tiny town that has a cool water fountain. So of course I hop off to shower my head and drink from it-so fresh! But I'm still so feeling the vibe of this music I just burst out dancing to it. It was great! 😁

I turned up to what I expected to be a campsite but in the park was a boxing/kick boxing competition. And those involved were staying at the only accommodation around.... So I kept my distance from all of the testosterone and ended up wild camping in the park

Had a dog run out along side of me I the highway. It wasn't so much chasing me with violent intent so much as it was racing me. But a barking dog definitely gets me pedaling as hard as I can! And it got up to 40kph with me! Dogs are fast!

I stayed with a Romanian fellow at his log cabin B&B. He had cycled more of the world than I and so opens up his property to cyclists to stay. And he took me to catch an early bus for a day trip up to the

Salina Turda salt mine

First used as a salt mine in 1075.

Walls look and feel like ice but is salt crystal

367 feet deep

Water down below there was from when it was once flooded

Wet Salt dripping on everything.

Sit down and your butt is covered in wet salt.

By 1881, this trolley pulled up salt and lowered down empty the empty container. Powered by horses walking around the extraction winch.

After 2 weeks the horses would go blind from the disorientation of walking in circles with only fire torches for light. They were 'retired' after 6 months of forced labor

Starting to go deeper into the Transylvanian Alps

Check out the gutters on this house. These were a lot of work. For what value I'm not sure...

About 12 pigs in the front yard

Amazing" tree house"architecture in the Carpathian mountains

Going up

The only view I saw during this 3000+foot climb

This region was rife with gypsies foraging for mushrooms

So productive a season that the commodity price dropped I was told

This is where I found to stay. The people around here are not very friendly. Don't look at you and don't even pass the hello test, I. E. They don't say hello back

What a day this was! 2 hard climbs with many miles of winding descents!

The orange pipe is gas. Apparently it was easier for them to do this than put the pipe under ground. Looks funny.

Sibiu

Eyes for windows was a thing here

Cycling the Transfăgărășan road over the Carpathian mountains. It's a 6000+ foot climb

The cloud are very low :/

Vlad the impaler's castle

Waaay up there

Cycling in Hungary

2022-08-19T11:29:00.000-04:00

I have been happily surprised at how popular cycling is in Hungary (and no Ebikes like has come to dominate much of the rest of Europe). Mostly to get around but also for pleasure/touring. It helps that the country is mostly flat. But I'd say there are more cyclists where I've been in Hungary than there are around Boston. I've even seen a mail woman on a bicycle with 4 panniers for letters.

Hungry has a reliable system of public water taps. more than any other country I've cycled through on this trip. Perhaps more than any where in the world I've been. Every little town has these blue water fountains that could be mistaken for a fire hydrant. It is so nice for the public to have such access to clean water... Why don't we in the USA?

Lake Balaton

Mostly private beach resorts. Where families go for the day. I accessed the lake to swim at public accesses, like parks. But the private beach clubs, which were only like 4$ for the day, had nice grass, chairs, pools, water slides, and those large rafts that are like jungle gyms for kids to play on.

The water was super shallow though, around the entire lake it seems to me. And I went around more than half of it. At least the bottom was comfortable sand/dirt...

Music

This house music brings together the positive vibes of afro carribean, new Orleans jazz and Latin music. I've been rocking out on my bicycle to this mix. Check it out 🙌

Listen to Acuña Mix #51 - Bosq by Acuña on #SoundCloud

https://soundcloud.app.goo.gl/Vf8ER

One thing that I appreciate about traveling by bicycle is my low carbon footprint. But I'm unable to avoid producing plastic waste. And it irks me. So I at least try to minimize the amount of landfill that I take up with plastic.

Park

It's great to see that event in the small town Hungary they have skate parks and workout stations. Come on Brookline/Boston, let's step up our game! Building public workout stations creates a more fit community!

Whenever I see a pull up bar I am summoned to 10 pullups, 10 chinups, with push-ups... isn't that how you see them?? 💪

I found a nice forest campsite with plenty of space and near nothing but the local thermal pools. So I had plenty of space in grass to setup my tent and no traffic noise.... Something I have not been without for a while....

The pools smelled like gasoline though 🙄

This is why wide tires and a hat are necessary. Although I still had to walk.

But sand and bumpy means you can't take your hands of the handle bars to drink. And then when you stop to drink the flies attack!

Pecs. 5th largest city in Hungary. Quite old. Nice downtown. I couldn't stay long though as I had arranged a warmshowers stay a bit further on.

Cycling in Slovenia

2022-08-05T16:30:00.001-04:00

I had a wonderful climb over the border into Slovenia.

It was solid climb that completely soaked me through with sweat. I did the last 40k of the day pretty much without stopping.

Which landed me in Bovec, a scenic mountain town

After a week on the road I decided to take a rest day here. I was going to ride a gondola up the mountain for a walk but at lunch prior to, I went to sip my drink and a bee was on the glass and stung my lower lip... It swelled up pretty bad. So instead of riding the gondola I spent the day resting and taking care of my lip.

The next day I cycled down the Soča River valley

Transitioning from Italy to Slovenia Google Maps no longer does bike routes so I started using Komoot. But I'm having second thoughts! I found myself on some steep inclines and loose rocks--which is not good! S*** f****** sucks. The first climb on the profile above is the below photos of Rocky road.

The only upside was there were zero other vehicles on the road...

And I ended up in some beautiful mountain territory

I haven't cycled over 2,000 m in one day since cycling in the Columbian Andes in march. I have found Slovenia is rubbing me the right way. The people are friendly, the roads are good, the house are well taken care of, Good Vibes.

Sometimes when I'm climbing up a long climb I let out a big ooooppppaaahhh" =effort +suffering +amazingness 😎

Fresh alpine water

I stayed with Warmshowers host, Bojan, who was sooo hospital. He converted what was once a workshop into a separate apartment to accommodate as many as 8 guests at once. And he said he has many guests coming and going all through the summer. 7 the night before it arrived and 5 my night. He said his neighbors sometimes help out to welcome guests into the apartment when he's not around. And he told me that if I have any problem, anywhere in Slovenia, to call him and he would come and get me. Wow. So nice!..... If only he didn't talk so much 😂

And I visited the lovely capital city of Ljubljana

Ljubljana is quite a lovely city. A lovey canal lined with bars and restaurants and flower arrangements. Interesting well maintained architecture. Very friendly people

Cycling north toward the Austrian border

There were farms of hops alll through this region. A pretty crop, I'd say

I hopped in the municipal pool in Celje, 4th largest city in Slovenia

I was beginning to look for a wild camping spot when, while cycling, a wasp flew right into my eye. I had to scrape it out of the sclera of my eye while quickly pulling off the road. It stung me just below the eye and got awfully swollen. Lasting a few days. And made my wild camping situation even less pleasant....

Cycling in Italy

2022-07-30T17:37:00.001-04:00

After waking up to a sprinkler next to my tent at 6am, I ended up doing 160k to reach my friend's place in Bolzano, arriving around 8pm. That's the most Ive ever cycled in a day, in the Alps no less. Met a bunch of people, so many things happened. I don't know if I'll ever see so much in one day again. So epic.

This lake, I later learned, is what is providing water for much of Italy's agriculture sector in norther Italy right now, an area that has been facing significant drought

the bending valley was full of mostly apple farms

most people are cycling on Ebikes like these.

arriving this look out over Mareno was marvelous

when I got some food and finally found somewhere to it I had become dizzy with hunger

I was a little beat up after 160 Ks. Even though it was a net down hill, the consistent head wind negated any energy savings... And I later learned my breaks were rubbing for a couple of days without realizing.😅

On my day off the bike my friends and I went for a hike into the mountains.

We took gondolas to get up for a hike.

looking back on Bolzano

and up towards the mountain peaks

some fantastic views up there.

the gondolas make the mountains so accessible for fantastic hiking

Turns out Bolzano is where gondolas were first used in the world. And they do have a great network of them. Only other place I've seen so many is in Antioquia in Colombia.

I was able compile this map of my route so far, up to Bolzano, about 5000ks in..

The headwind I had more or less since arriving Italy continued in full force as I continued south east. What should not have been so difficult a day cycling to Lake Garda ended up beating me up. The valley was sweltering in full sun and the headwind slowed me way down - extending my exposure. Fortunately there were plenty of public water spigots to take from along the way.

I popped into Trento for a look around, a stop in an Aldi for juice and AC. Where I saw this public Ebike charger-which I've never seen before.

Towards the end of the day I had sun fatigue and then the hills started. The last of which afforded this view looking down at Lake Garda

They wanted $35 to camp in this touristy spot so I said screw that and set off back to a wild camping option I had seen earlier... Back up a big hill ugh! 😂... Fortunately I found a hidden, very old looking and empty park that was perfect for me.

Cycling south along the lake the head wind continued.

But the views of the steep mountain sides along the lake were fantastic

I realized my disc breaks were badly rubbing, probably for the past couple of days. Unable to fix it myself I found a bike shop.

I ended the day in Verona.

Where I found a nice spot at a park to watch the sunset

And some action in the night sky

I again wild camped.... This time with far less success.... 🙄

The next morning I realized that my breaks were still rubbing and I ended up going to 3 shops before someone could help me... Had to replace my pads again and reset the pistons again...? Not sure what might be going on here... Ugh those long days in the hot sun and headwind made harder!

Finally seeing some of Italian drought I've r read about

One of the most difficult things about traveling by bicycle?..... Packing groceries into my bags 😆😅. I eat a lot and have to transport it all to hopefully some pleasent spot to eat it....

During the time it took me to figure out that small challenge (by putting some groceries in the extra slack of the orange backpack liner I use to carry my camping gear)... Two different older Italian guys, who also pulled up by bicycle to shop, asked where I was coming from. And going. When I told them they each reacted in a cheering Bravo! It was fun to witness 😄... And so I showed them my odometer, which has just crossed the 5,000km mark! 🤘

Much of this day was on a straight, flat, enclosed bike path... So not much to speak of/show

I wild camped next to nice lake at the foot of the Dolemites. The swimming around here is lovely.

I was excited to get back into some mountains, so after a nice breakfast I headed north,

quickly reaching a solid 30 minute climb

That landed me at this view around 10am. What a great way to start a day 😀

I noticed a lot of other cyclists around here, which tells me the area is good for cycling and that cars will be more familiar with cyclists, so safer.

And there were loads of bike paths to avoid traffic altogether

I had lunch at Langarone. Above my spread of food on the wall there you can see a big slit in the mountain. Look closer and you can see a dam at the top of the slit. That's where I'm headed.

Climbing up towards the dam I arrived this tunnel cut out of the side of the cliff. Stop lights on either side means one way traffic and I've got to hurry before oncoming cars start

But I snuck out one of the openings to snap a view of the dam. A view cars driving through can't see

Here now looking back down at the dam.

And now deep into the Dolemites

Fantastic, tall valleys

Here there is definitely signs of less water than normal - these rivers completely dry

But lower down, lake Barcis, controlled by a dam, was still full of beautiful Alpine water. Great swimming!

Right near where I camped

I happened upon a group of cycling Americans living in Maniago, Italy with the US military and out for a Saturday bike ride. I met them over coffee and gave something to chew on 😉

My last day in Italy had me crossing into Slovenia over the mountains, with another sizeable climb.

Cycling in Germany, Austria

2022-07-24T11:05:00.004-04:00

https://ridewithgps.com/routes/40319083

I aimed for Freiburg where I had a date with the manufacturer of the USB charging port connected to my dynamo that had been malfunctioning since day 1 of the trip.

Freiburg was so impressive, so many people cycling! The most I've ever seen! Really great cycling infrastructure, like most all of Germany-e.g. dedicated bicycle underpasses, overpasses, bridges, oh my!

I camped at a quite expensive family camp ground in the edge of the black forest, $21

Leaving Freiburg I was right into the beautiful pastoral landscape of the Black Forest and a solid bit of climbing. I was already enamored with Germany, quickly becoming one of my favorite countries to cycle in: A+ quality roads and bike ways. Beautiful long windy mountain valleys, for gradual ascents/descents. A totally distinct architectural design, often with beautiful flower arrangements to suit.

I learned that they water the logs because if they do not the wood is liable to catch on fire at the paper mill.

Google maps takes you some strange ways sometimes!

It got a bit hairy! Here I had to pass through this small tunnel...

But I eventually joined a legitimate bike path in the woods. I took a video.

I ended up at nice campground where I setup next to trailer with a lovely garden.

They had a man made swimming pond (poured concrete bottom)

And horses for the kids..... The place was packed with people.

Like France. they totally do camping differently than I know from elsewhere I've camped (USA, Canada, Latin America, Australia, New Zealand). Communal (toilets, showers, washing sinks) and economical - so nice for families with kids.

Departing the mountains of the black forest, I descended towards the Rhine River in Switzerland.

I've been through a number of Swiss towns where everything is modern and nice but there's hardly anyone around. The antithesis of so many places I've been where it's overflowing with people and traffic... Here is so much nicer 😁

Arriving Schaffhausen I noticed across the river people swimming and floating down the river. I decided to get a picnic and join them.

Great underpasses!

And bicycle route directions

I spoke with a Swiss couple who (invited me to stay with them at their house, I declined) told me that the largest waterfall in continental Europe was just down the way, so I had a look at the Rhinefells waterfall.

Shortly thereafter I was able to mostly stay on bike path and get over to Lake Constance.

I had to catch the last 630pm ferry to the island where I was recommended to camp out. There's a lot of good summer living going on around lake constance

I cycled through the small German city of Konstanz in Lake Konstanz, before catching a ferry.

Heading towards Munich, where I had arranged to couch surf at a friend of a friend, I had 250km to cover in 2 days.

At one point I saw a bunch of cars parked on the side of hill so I went to see what was going on. It was an equestrian competition, so I took a beer break to check it out.

Had my first meal at a restaurant in Germany

And found a place to camp. It was entirely enclosed in a fence, so I had to open a gate to enter - which struck me as odd...

But despite the fence and gated entrance, I awoke in the middle of the night to a fox having knocked over my bike looking for food. I only had some fruit and cereal, so it tried to take a bite out of my soap 😂

Had a wonderful rest day with some new friends in Munich. We cycled around the city--what else do you do on a cycle touring rest day? :)

I really enjoyed Munich. It has a high quality of life. Like the Inn river and it's canals that wind through the city and through a park where people lay out and bathe in the shallow river water. Just what we need to figure out to do with the Charles river in Boston.

And we had a BBQ on the balcony

But I had a date with the Alps. So I was keen to leave the city and cycle south.

I ended up cycling along 3 lovely lakes that day. And with temps in the 90s, I swam in each one up to and into the Alps.

Wonderful scenery in these parts. And much of my way was on bike path.

My Aldi (supermarket) dinner

I was taking the long way to get to my friend's in Bolzano, seeking to cycle along as much of the Via Claudia Augusta as I could

Which soon crossed me into Austria.

on either paved or unpaved path

Ski jumps

before descending into the Austrian valley town, Telfs

part way down

the river water was flowing heavy on this side of the alps. despite the drought I was hearing about on the Italian side of the Alps

Castle on a cliff--from a distance

and zoomed in to it

I ended up wild camping near a school field, by some equipement. I didn't sleep well at night and at 6am sharp I awoke to a sprinkler going off right next to my tent. I was naked so I had to quickly throw something on and get outside to smother it. While it turned away I quickly evacuated my camping spot. Shit got wet. But it made for an early start!...and that day I ended up cycling 99miles/160km all the way to my friend's place in Bolzano, Italy. It was a magnificent day.

the public water fountains can be so inviting. and the fresh, cool water is amazing when it's hot

Nauder, Austria

I took this video of the bridge leading to a castle where I met a couple of German guys.

Noted long after we split, I found a cell phone laying in the middle of the trail. I grab it and hope to catch up to whoever it belonged to. Most people were cycling my direction on Ebikes. So I'm asking people as I cycle up the path and road. No luck. About an hour later, I'm climbing a 1200' climb and catch up with the German I met earlier. And it was his phone! He sure was happy with me! Fortunatly for him I was faster than his Ebike! ;) So I asked him to take this video of me climbing the hill.

The mountain experience was picking up

And I soon crossed the border towards the top of the mountain pass into Italy.

Cycling in France 2

2022-07-14T15:32:00.000-04:00

https://ridewithgps.com/routes/39903912

Starting east from Nantes along the Loire river valley began a long section of easy cycling - flat, well signed bike paths that make up the Eurovelo #6 route. So many people cycle along the Loire, either by day or traveling with baggage like myself.

I saw a sign for a mushroom museum in Saumur that said it was the largest collection of mushrooms in Europe, so I decided to check it.

A spacious bike path to cross the bridge

to Saumur

The mushroom museum is deep into a cave, which I presume was built for the purpose of growing mushrooms. Cause it was a lot of work to hollow out all of the rock for this museum.

As you might suspect, is was kinda dank in there. And the smell of zapped bugs curled the nose hairs further, from those bug zapper traps.

But those are the conditions many workers work in to cultivate mushrooms in the cave environment. One that is very conducive to growing mushrooms.

I have come to love the patisseries/bakeries here. Usually for both savory and sweet items.

Although they often don't look as good when I end up eating them. As I have to pack them on my bike to take them anywhere.

I stopped to chat with six local gentlemen in their 60s/70s who were all cycling together. They asked me if I was going to go to Chambord. "What's that?'' I asked them." The Chateau de Chambord" they responded. "I don't know what that is but I guess I'll go check it out."

It is a castle set way back in the woods, well away from the common man. A mere 440 rooms, 282 fireplaces, and 84 staircases 😂

Even the scaffolding to repair it is a work of art

According to Wikipedia: it has a "famous double staircase, the construction of which permits two people to ascend and descend respectively without seeing one another", which I think speaks to an element of French people that persists to this day...

Along the Loire and its canals with locks and Chateaus:

And a small detour up to Sancerre in wine country

Camping in Nevers there we're lots of other cyclists camping out as well. Even a couple traveling with their dog in tow, over 2000k at that point they told me.

I have seen a number of these baths built into the flowing water of a stream.... And I've learned they are a traditional way for people to wash their sheets etc.

I was surprised to see that the bike path went so close to this nuclear power plant. I thought they were high security areas, to be located far from the public who could throw a grenade at it or something 😂... I ended up seeing 4 nuclear power plants in 2 days 🤔

After cycling along the river and canals of the Loire Valley, amidst many other cyclists, often elderly cyclists, I decided to head towards Geneva Switzerland to find some hills/mountains. I was kinda bored of all the flat stuff and thought it might be making me soft ;)

So I veered away south east towards Switzerland and immediately found myself in some lovely hilly countryside.

Thanks to Google maps directions (I would have otherwise never found it) I passed through this 2km long bicycle tunnel. What I can only assume was a train tunnel. It was chilly in there. So neat!

From my campsite in Vonnas, I had a big day ahead of me to get to the first place I could find near Geneva, about 130km away with a few good climbs, totalling about 1800m of climbing.

It was fantastic. Definitely involved some hairy stuff, like having to cycle down a corn field

And some windy mountain roads with this sort of heavy traffic

But it was just the kind of challenging, scenic diversion I was looking for. Except for the last 10 km of steady head wind. That sucked 😣

But over all I felt great! Crushed it! 💪

Nowhere makes me shout with exhilaration like cycling at the mountains.

Shout out to Deep Dish Yoshiesque 1 CD1. I've listened to this mix for over 23 years now and it still tickles my fancy. Helps me move it up the climbs!

https://youtu.be/Kwcw1LiUc9c

From the trailer park that I slept in outside of Geneva, I went to check out the city and the United Nations buildings. Really, not too much to speak of. The only embassy with an armed security detail I saw was Russia's. Oddly enough, he was one of the only people who smiled and waved at me all day 😂.

And with the same head wind showing no sign of abating, instead of cycling along lake Geneva to Laussane, I decided to cross the mountain and in hopes of evading the wind on the other side

The ~1000 meter climb turned out to be part of a fantastic Swiss bike route, the Jura route, with views looking back over the lake Geneva on the way up.

There was a long flatter section along the top of the mountains with loads of cows with chiming cow bells but basically no cars 😍

I descended on some perfectly smooth windy, black pavement 🤤 that peaked out over a small village and the end of a long lake that I was to cycle along towards Vallorbe.

When I reconnected at the bottom with the main road I quickly saw people lined up along the sides of the road with signs and security about. I pulled over to ask someone whare was going on and they said that the Tour de France was to arrive in an hour or two. So I continued down the road until I found a party organized to watch the event and hung out for a while. What luck! It couldn't have happened more spontaneously, my first and probably only time in person.

I found a spot to watch above a water fountain squished into some bushes 😆

Like any movie or TV show, the main event is always preceded by commercials. And here they came as, what at burning man are called, art cars. And these commercials throw crap at the audience. Samples and what not.

And then cyclists arrived an hour or so later

They keep the road shut down for a half after after the parade of cyclists and cars pass, so I had to wait to continue. In the meantime I found a grocery store to buy some dinner. Apparently I was still in Switzerland because it was still $$$. I cycled along the lake, where the tour had just recently raced byas, but I took my sweet time because it was beautiful. I had to stop for a picnic.

I didn't arrive a campsite in Vallorbe until after 7pm, having started my day around 8am. The mountain valley town/campsite was tranquil.

That night, however, I awoke in my tent to the sound of some animals about in the middle of the night but don't think much of it until I hear my bike tip over. I get up and pick it back up and cinch the bags closed. Only to realize later on the next day that my cereal bag was torn open and my raisens and butter are gone 😒... I think the animal climbed on top of my bike to get into my pannier and tipped it over and stole my food! 😂

I saw a relaxing spot by the river and could not resist checking it out. There were some steps into the river that looked hundreds of years old. So I went for a swim. It was cold 🥶

And my campsite for the night was adjacent to the same river.

I had a nice rest day at my friend's x-roommate parent's house in Vesoul. I got to try out one of their ebikes. So easy! Hard to sweat if you tried!

And we had crepes after dinner and lots of wine.

I spent over 3 weeks in France. Goodbye baguettes and patisseries!

Cycling in France 1

2022-06-30T13:45:00.007-04:00

Apparently the Pyrenees don't run all the way to the atlantic. I did not intend to skip them but the hills I crossed were not what I think the Pyrenees are... 🤷

I quickly hit Biarritz, a popular surf town/area. The beginning of a long stretch of uninterrupted Beach up the French coast.

It is a lot of work to set the small square stones they use for streets in downtown areas. And I certainly don't appreciate it. Bumpy AF and only for aesthetic benefit, it seems to me.

I met up with a friend I made last time I was in Puerto Escondido, Mexico. Below the tattoo shop/social club where he worked was this interesting shop for women.

Surf life saving training. I feel like I would have participated in this sport/culture if I grew up on the coast.

I've been camping out like 90% of the time so far in France. No shortage of rain, though :/

Bikes everywhere. Including lots of E bikes

I happened to be with my friend for the first day of the summer celebration in France. Essentially a music festival all over the country.

I snapped this photo of how much water was accumulating around my tent one early morning... I had about 8 nights of rain my first 10 nights France, with rain during days too... Gets a bit soggy 😟

Traveling by bicycle in western France is like training wheels. Which explains why there are so many individuals/couples /groups cycle touring here. It's all flat with bike paths 90% of the time and mostly in the shade. So easy! 😂.... But at the same time a bit boring. Not much view while surrounded by woods.

But the campground facilities are the best I've ever seen. They do the whole camp ground thing very well on the coast here.

Well laid out with pool areas - including slides and games, restaurant, convenience store, bar, grilling area, sporting areas, with access to the beach or some kind of nature... The kind of place you'd want to take your kids and hang out for a while.

My standard meal. Baguette, butter, tomato, greens....

It is remarkable how much cycle path network there is in France, where cars are nowhere to be seen or heard. That element is quite lovely 💙

And in that setting, it is easy to strike up conversation with other cyclists. As I do from time to time. It can quite a pleasent experience.

I have not had too many crepes in my life, but this is the best one I've ever had. Crepe, cooked apple, vanilla ice cream, whipped cream, caramel sauce 😋

At this point I decided I would not have enough time to go further north into Brittany. So instead I turned east at Nantes to join the eurovelo route #6. A route that connects the Atlantic to the Black sea, cutting across the center of France along rivers, starting along the river Loire, in the Loire Valley.

After leaving the serene coastal bike path, I was back onto regular roads. Oh boy! There was a few miles stretch of construction with traffic in both directions squeezed very narrow, leaving me only inches of shoulder. The kind of situation that makes you want to cycle as fast as possible to get out those conditions quickly. At one point an 18 wheeler passed me at speed and squeezed me right up against the edge of the road while I was doing about 25m/h. At one point that traffic had pushing at 30m/h on the flat! That is me going out of my head fast 😯... Not something I could sustain very long....

I got a tip from a friend of a friend for a couple things to do in Nantes as I passed through. As it was too much $ to stay the night ($60+), I would just visit on the way to a campsite on the outskirts of the city. After visiting the castle

The multiple pullies for pulling up water from the well inside the castle

What was the moat is now a public lawn

I walked over to a crêperie. I stepped inside to alert the waitress to my presence outside and ask if my bike was in the way where I put it... When I go sit outside and find my pannier is missing. Someone stole it when I stepped inside for like 2-3 minutes. Had all my cloths, electronics, pump, spare parts, lock, creams... Fortunately my spair bank and credit cards were in my other bag.

So I quickly pivoted into shopping mode, to try to get myself back up to speed to continue. I got spanked overpaying for common cables and charger, but thank goodness for Uniql--they had good stuff, not so expensive. I left to camp in the outskirts of town and returned to the city the next to exchange some things and buy some more. It was disheartening. My systems that I've dialed in to be able to travel like this have been compromised. But I'll manage. The good vibes abide 😎

Cycling in Spain

2022-06-19T16:13:00.006-04:00

https://ridewithgps.com/routes/39729174

I had my first crisis of confidence in google maps approaching the Spanish border. I found myself on unstable rocky roads with no one else around. I wonder how gmaps prioritizes road quality, traffic level, route efficiency, and all the rest.... Because I was not happy with its decision to put me out here.

It had been 10 days in a row that I was on the move, so I took my first rest day in Salamanca. What a beautiful city.

My first dose of the car free plazas and pedestrian ways so uniquely European. How it is that we don't also prioritize such space in America is beyond me. Newbury street in Boston, for example, is a prime example of an area that could easily be made car free to everyone's benefit.

Human life and culture is allowed to happen where cars aren't a threat.

It is really starting to get hot and exposed here in central Spain. And it seems to me they don't eat much beyond the tapas found at the bar display.

Really missing the fruit/juice/popsicle/ice-cream culture of Mexico/Colombia.

Avila

Segovia is another beautiful, old city. Castles, cathedrals, and the acuaduct were all very impressive.

But unable to find affordable accommodation I left in the late afternoon to camp in the outskirts of town.

A night wind storm forced me to peg down my tent in the middle of the but challenged my tent's construction. A constant noise that is so disconcerting I could not sleep until it quieted down late in the morning 😭😴

In search of some shade for a rest I detoured off the road and ended up founding this area of family wine caves and bodegas. Where local families store their wine to age and have a family gathering space in the cave like bodegas. I ended up chatting with one such family who offered a refreshing glass of cool red wine and a little tour of their space.

El cotarro

https://maps.app.goo.gl/G1gruefMyjoGYH978

In trying to reach Burgos the next day, Google maps again routed me only through farm roads-bumpy, rocky, unstable ways. Something I really don't care to do on my fully loaded bike-too risky, stressful, and slow. The only other way I could find was to to go on the highway 😟.... So I was on the highway for a while, not pleasant but direct, fast, and safe.. When the cops pulled me over and told me to get off at the next exit. So I did and it put me on shitty 'roads'.... I was trying to avoid the height of the days heat but now I was not able to. I had left at 815am and didn't arrive until after 6....uff it was a tough day.

So I took a rest day in Burgos. Pleasant little city.

I found a campsite near a river about halfway to Bilbao/the coast, so seemed as good a spot as any to target for the day. Turns out my aim landed me on a great rails to trails bike/walking path almost the entire 70ks. It was wonderful. I was able maintain about 20m/30k per hour among calm pastures and along mountain sides.

When I arrived the campsite it was a bit disappointing and the lady who worked there told me there was a more interesting spot about 12ks away. So I decided to continue on to Frías.

Where there was access to swim in the river by the old bridge.

After a visit up the hill to town for a view

I went back to the bridge swimming area and camped out.

The next day I cycled along mountain ridges and into Basque Country. So long being able to speak the local language 😭😭

Bilbao is a cool city. Like much of Spain/Europe, it has a great outdoor life/culture. So fantastic to have water fountains everywhere when it's hot!

I reached the north coast at a little Beach town called Deba

And then cycled up into the nearby mountains towards a campground I found

That had a pool with a view

When I cycled to San Sebastián the next day on Saturday in Basque country, the cycling culture was very apparent as there must have seen over a thousand people cycling along the coast, 98% men.

Although quite expensive, San Sebastián is also a pretty cool city, on the beach.

I met up with one of my best friend's good friend from growing up. We had a nice time hanging out. And I met his girlfriend as well. The only Spanish girl I spoke with in my 2 weeks in Spain :/

Cycling in Portugal

2022-06-08T11:22:00.006-04:00

This is the idea

So I packed up my bike

And I flew from Boston to Lisbon.

Flying into Lisbon I set up my bicycle at the airport. Something always goes wrong. Was a stressful experience.

With my warm showers host conveniently located near a metro stop, I spent a day walking around Lisbon

Upon starting the journey I found my dynohub USB charging port was not working... So before leaving the city, I tried to fix it. 3 bike shops and 2 electrical technicians, I was able to fix it. So my cycling can charge a battery bank.

I took a train 20 minutes out of the metro area, to Sintra, and started cycling from there.

My setup

Camping in Ericeira

Despite hearing the predominant winds were from the north, I had a good luck all through Portugal with tailwinds.

A castle wall

Lots of wind turbines around

Cabo Carvoeiro in Peniche, the Western most part of Europe.

Cycling up the coast I found myself stuck behind a large group of kids cycling over a bridge we were all crossing. After giving up on passing them I settled in amongst them for a slow bridge crossing and got to chatting with them. About 40-50 14-15 year old kids doing a class trip by bicycle for the day. After about 15 minutes of cycling and chatting with them I was going to split from them when one girl approached me and asked me if I knew some English song... I said I didn't know it so she started to sing it to me. It seemed she really wanted to sing to me. So I let her sing her song (even though her teacher figure wanted her to move along) and tried to show my appreciation of her effort. After she finished she told me that she only arrived Portugal 1 month ago from Ukraine, where her brother and father remain.

Scenic bike trail threads mountain villages.

Some of the best bike paths I've ever ridden on here in the low mountains of Portugal. Between Aviero and Viseu. Then again I've just begun my first tour in Europe.

It's great to see wind farms out here. I find them kinda beautiful myself, especially for what they mean.

Not nearly as many as the wind farm I came across in Southern Mexico, though.

Talking with some locals they suggested I check out the Duono River. So I did.

Arriving Pinhão on the Duono

This rail line was purely for tourism along river

Cycling out of the river valley it was all vineyards. Which made for a pleasant 12 mile 2000 morning climb before breakfast.

Pinhao is in the distance there, along the river

After a day of cycling, this was a welcome find :)

This is what it looks like when Google maps leads me into trouble and I question my sanity.... Steep sandy rocky roads who knows where

After some walking/pushing I eventually found my way back to pavement. The landscape has changed dramatically having here just crossed into Spain

These storks have made nests in the roof of this abandoned building... At least providing accommodations for someone!

After 9 days of cycling in a row, I took a rest day in Salamanca.

My route through Portugal.

https://ridewithgps.com/routes/39705483

2022 tour de Colombia

2022-06-01T12:46:00.002-04:00

This was my 3rd bike tour in Colombia, so I sought out a new mountain range to venture through--in Santander, Boyaca, and Cundinamarca.

Leaving Palmira is traffic

With sugarcane truck trains. Large wheels, often 5 segments long

.... Never got around to finishing this post....

Cycling the White Mountain Circuit, New Hampshire

2019-08-28T19:06:00.001-04:00

The White Moutain Circuit is a 2-3 day, ~140 mile bike ride between Conway, Gorham/Shelbourn, and Woodstock/Lincoln, New Hampshire. Overall, I would rate this 3 day tour as easy/moderate....but then again, I'm an experienced cycle tourist--all things relative...

Each destination has a ~$40 bunk bed hostel and good food options nearby. The hostels cater mostly to Appalachian Trail through hikers.

For those arriving from Boston, I'd suggest parking in Conway and doing the route counter-clockwise in 3 days (as I did). To do it in 2 days of cycling, I'd suggest starting in Woodstock/Lincoln and doing it clockwise.

The roads are mostly well sealed and %80+ of the time there is sufficient shoulder to cycle in. Of course, there's always some tight stuff.....

As with any bike tour, a good mirror is vital to help manage traffic. A mirror is more valuable than a helmet, in my opinion.

Conway to Gorham: 38 miles

I arrived late and got on my bicycle at 4pm. To arrive before dark I had to push it. I made it to the Rattle River hostel in 3:15, including dinner in Gorham.
Traffic is heavy in and around Conway.

Gorham to Lincoln/Woodstock: 58 mile

Rolling hills with some medium climbs to Rt 3 south. The first 1/3 of the day has heavy trucks passing but there's plenty of shoulder to stay clear.
A paved bike path starts soon after turning south on Rt 3. After a swim in echo lake it is mostly downhill. The last few miles of which are fun windy down hill on bike path in the woods. The bike path ends at Flume Gorge and spits you back out to the highway, but it is smooth cruising past a water park to Lincoln /Woodstock.

Woodstock/Lincoln to Conway: 40 miles

The Kancamagus highway climb is the largest of the tour. The incline is gradual, however, which makes the climb quite manageable. There are only occasional views of the open landscape around. There are no supplies/water anywhere between Lincoln and Conway. Overall it is not a challenging day.

CANADA TO COLOMBIA, 9 MONTHS IN PHOTOS

2018-06-24T11:30:00.003-04:00

In the end this bicycle tour was 13,700 kilometers or 8510 miles and took place over 9 months, from September 5, 2017 to June 18, 2018

Ruby Beach, Washington, USA

Kalaloch, Washington, USA

Raymond, Washington, USA

Astoria Bridge, Washington/Oregon, USA

Florence, Oregon, USA

Prairie Creek, Humboldt, California, USA

The Lost Coast, Humboldt, California, USA

Humboldt Redwoods State Park, California, USA

Mendocino County, California, USA

Sanomoa County, California, USA

Marin County, California, USA

San Francisco, California, USA

Yosemite National Park, California, USA

Tioga Pass, Yosemite National Park, California, USA

Death Valley, California, USA

Panamint Springs, Death Valley, California, USA

Onyx, California, USA

Havilah, California, USA

Los Padres Mountains, California, USA

Baja California Norte, Mexico

Mulege, Baja California Sur, Mexico

Burro Beach, Baja California Sur, Mexico

El Requeson, Baja California Sur, Mexico

Bahia de Concepcion, Baja California Sur, Mexico

El Huatamote, Baja California Sur, Mexico

Cerritos beach, Baja California Sur, Mexico

La Isla Espirito Santo, La Paz, Baja California Sur, Mexico

Sinaloa, Mexico

Escuinapa, Sinaloa, Mexico

San Blas, Nayarit, Mexico

San Pancho, Nayarit, Mexico

Bucerias, Nayarit, Mexico

Puerto Vallarta, Jailisco, Mexico

Tuito, Jailisco, Mexico

La Manzanilla, Jailisco, Mexico

La Barra de Navidad, Jailisco, Mexico

La Ticla, Michoacan, Mexico

La Barra de Nexpa, Michoacan, Mexico

Chilaquiles. Playa Azul, Michoacan, Mexico

Zihuatanejo, Guerrero, Mexico

El Cayacal, Guerrero, Mexico

Chacahua, Oaxaca, Mexico

Punta Zicatela, Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca, Mexico

Zipolite, Oaxaca, Mexico

Niltapec, Chiapas, Mexico

La Venta, Chiapas, Mexico

Pijijiliapan, Chiapas, Mexico

San Marcos, Guatamala

San Andres Xecul, Guatamala

Solola, Guatamala

Guatamala

Lake Atitlan, Guatamala

Patzun, Guatamala

Patzicia, Guatamala

Antigua, Guatamala

Monterrico, Guatamala

Matata, El Salvador

La Union, El Salvador

La Perla, El Salvador

Usulutan, El Salvador

San Francisco, Honduras

Somoto canyon, Nicaragua

Leon, Nicaragua

Volcan Concepcion, Ometepe, Nicaragua

Playa el Coco, Nicaragua

Jaco, Costa Rica

Costa Rica

Boquete, Panama

Carribean Ocean, Panama

San Blas Islands, Panama

Andes mountains, Antioquia, Colombia

Valdivia, Antioquia, Colombia

Medellin, Antioquia, Colombia

Fredonia, Antioquia, Colombia

Antioquia, Colombia

Hispania, Antioquia, Colombia

Jardin, Antioquia, Colombia

Enserma, Caldas, Colombia

Aruaca, Caldas, Colombia

Filandia, Quindio, Colombia

Salento, Quindio, Colombia

Tenerife, Valle de Cauca, Colombia

Google Photo Album

Cycling in Colombia part 2

2018-06-23T15:33:00.001-04:00

Medellín to Fredonia

I had been warned that the roads can be problematic in this area during the rainy season. And I found out just what they were talking about.

There was no way to pass by foot. A cop showed up as I was hanging out and he said it had gotten worse even since that morning.

So I had to backtrack up the mountain and find a trail that I was told could, fortunately, circumvent the landslide.

The road was rocky and rough and ascended for a couple miles

before turning into a muddy walking path.

It eventually returned to a settled area and I could hear motorcycles indicating I was approaching a more legitimate a road that others used and that I wasn't lost.

Turns out this road was an old rail road track and offered an impressive route along the side of a mountain. Tunnels, waterfalls and an old bridge to cross. A surprisingly great detour:)

I eventually returned to the paved road that was now ascending out of a valley. So it was up up up and into more fantastic mountain cycling.

So fantastic it turned out to be the training ground for these guys.

And finally I reached the mountain town Fredonia, where I was invited by a family I had met in the Caribbean. This was my 4-5th mountain town and another lovely one. Arriving town and looking for somewhere to stay drew a lot of curios attention, this is not a touristy place where gringos are found... My kinda place :)

With the friends I made back in the islands

Leaving Fredonia was a long descent into a scenic river valley.

Hispania

Another small mountain town in the Andes with no tourists, this place had the most beautiful town plaza garden I've ever seen. Packed with colorful flowers and shaded by 6 beautiful trees.

Jardín

A busier, more touristy town with the Andes mountains visible all around. Lovely, colorful buildings and lots of people hanging out in the central plaza cafes.

Jardín to Río Sucio.

Man, that was something else! Antioquia has been some of the best adventure of my life.

I did not foresee having to cycle 50k on rocks and mud through the mountains. After I separated from a few locals on mountain bikes, I was basically alone up there, with essentially no traffic. Until a motorcycle passed me in the opposite direction I was concerned if I came across a landslide I would have to go a looong the way back.

Rocks and mud made the going much slower and more trying. But the sound of rushing water down steams and waterfalls was more common than the sound of cars/motorcycles.

This was some of the most remote cycling I've ever done; also some of the most serene and magnificent.

Anserma

Just another mountain town, with panoramic mountain views

Descent from Risaralda to Margarita

Wow that was one of the best descents of my trip! A long winding gradual descent with amazing distant Andes views and no cars. I was going 20-35mph for about 25-30 minutes. I cruised along with birds flying down below me. Amazing.

To Manizales instead

I stopped on the side of the road to write something down when a girl arrived shortly after to eat her lunch. We hit it off over our shared interest in cycling and she recommended a side trip to a natural hot spring near Manizales where she lives. And out to dinner as well. So I said 'sounds good.'

Turns out Manizales is a city on top of a mountain and the 3000' climb up there was tough!

Like Medellin, Manizales also has a gondola system to move people up and down the city on the side of a mountain

my day ended up looking like this--down and then up!

The day trip up to the hot springs was soso....a local bike shop lent me a mountain bike (for free) for the 25k mostly rocky/muddy climb up into the cold clouds. The hot springs sat at 3500 meters or 11,480' so the air was really thin and it sure was cold up there--48F !

Descending from manizales

This was the fastest, longest descent of my entire trip. Winding down the side of the mountain with 2 lanes I was able to finally crack the 70k/h mark. wooohoo!

The descents around here are unreal... I can hardly believe I've climbed up so much to descend so fast for so long.

Colombia has a great selection of flavors for juices and ice cream. Here a place that actually listed them visibly, which is quite rare. Fresh juices have even more options; in either water or milk. Only Mexico can compete with this variety. Far more fruit is available here than even in Thailand or Indonesia, in my experience.

May 31 2018

I just found out that the bridge in Valdivia over the Rio Cauca I crossed at the start of the climb to Yarumal 2-3 weeks ago had fallen down within a week or so of when I crossed it. It collapsed when a hydroelectric dam 100 miles upstream blew up and a torrent of water washed roads, houses and the bridge away.

I am so lucky to have made it just before or I would have had to back track ~1,000 miles, taken a more dangerous and difficult route to Medellín. Wow 😦

Filandia

Salento and El Valle de Cauca

My last days cycling were out of the mountains and into the Valle de Cauca--pure flat filled with sugar cane.

the road was often enclosed with coffee and banana trees

I met these folks on the side of the road earlier on and they wanted to keep talking so they found my on their motocycle and continued to chat for a while.....

leaving the mountains and into the valley

these 4-5 segment trucks carry sugar cane

My friend's farm in a valley near Palmira

On my last day, we went paragliding over the valley.

Cycling in Colombia part 1

2018-05-30T22:38:00.000-04:00

After arriving by sailboat I spent a few days hanging out in Cartagena with my friends

Leaving Cartagena was a flat couple days of very lush green scenery and sounds of an odd Caribbean Latin type of music I'd never heard before.

Tolu and the San Barnardo islands
It took me 2 days to reach Tolu on the Caribbean coast, where I had heard about some nearby islands.
I went for a day trip out to the islands by boat. They are remaniscent of the San Blas Islands, one is said to be the most densely populated island in the world.

The water was like a bathtub, you could sit in it for hours and not get cold. I met a family here on vacation who invited me to their town south of Medellín, Fredonia. Sounded like a plan to me.

Leaving Tolu I took my last peak of the ocean before working my way towards the mountains .

Pulling off the highway for lunch in some random town I navigated the back streets

to find this lovely public market where I tried cherry juice for the first time.

Mostly flat terrain I could really lay into it and cover ground. Oh man, there is nothing like the energy release of a good bass drop to get the heart goin 160+ bpm at 35k/h, even after 4 hours on the pedals :)

Water Buffalo?

So many mango trees that the mangoes end up falling into the street as litter

An alley of mango trees

On the road I met a retired French couple who told me they have been traveling by bicycle for the last 12 years, 10 months of the year. Doing a comfortable 60-70k/day... Sounds pretty good to me...

I learned pretty early on that it is the rainy /winter season in Colombia, not pleasant to ycling

Cycling down a river valley to approach the Andes the predominant business is washing cars and trucks. They use all the water falling from the clouds down the mountains to create high pressure hoses to wash cars. You can see here how they market the business by letting the water spray in display of availability.

There's was so much water, in fact, the river was overflowing its banks and washing houses away.

2 years ago the 'Going to the sun road' in Glacier National Park, Montana was the biggest climb I had ever done. It took me about ~1:45 to climb, as I recall.

My first climb into the Andes was 3 times as long and 3 times as tall. About 9000' climbing in about 30 miles.

There is something about big climbs in the mountains that, despite the difficulty and pain, I get the chills of excitement and have a smile on my face most of the time. Unless it goes on for more than like 2 or 3 hours.... Then the difficulty and pain can begin to prevail...

Aaaaahhhhh!

Oh man what a climb!

I love climbing in the mountains.

It rained on and off as the clouds passed through.

Fortunately things cleared up enough for a lovely visit to Valdivia on the way up.

It is no fun cycling, especially descending, in heavy rain. So when you see a public shelter with the word cafeteria above, you don't hesitate to pull over for un café.

While I am normally a vegetarian, that is not possible on this trip. Yet it is still beyond my pallette to eat intestine in soup.

Cycling in Latin America as a white guy, especially up populated mountains, means you get a lot of looks. People stare, generally in surprise or disbelief, but often give back expressions of positivity- which are great to receive.
The feeling of a thousand positive eye contacts. Quite a way to lift your spirits.

Yarumal
I arrived here on mother's day, when the place had a nice positive energy.
I explored upwards looking for a nice view and what kind of conversations I could stir up.

Medellín

I had heard a lot about this city over the years so I planned to spend a week there, the longest of anywhere during this trip.
I met up with a woman I met in Cartagena. She had a battery pack I left by my bed and we hung out for a couple days. She was renting a place way up in hills with a view

Hard to appreciate how big the city is until you see that many of those buildings in the distance there are high-rises. And this is only one section of the city in view....... So many people in this planet..

Taking the metro cable up over some of the sprawl to a large park hidden on the other side of the mountain.

Arvi park

Botero commands a lot of visual representation in Colombia, many of his statues are given high stature through Medellí's parks.

Although not quite as high as this one

Sailing around the Darian gap

2018-05-12T02:11:00.000-04:00

I took about 2 weeks rest after reaching Panama city. 2 friends of mine flew into Panama to meet me for the 5 day sailboat trip from Puerto Lindo through the Caribbean and the San Blas Islands to Cartagena, Colombia.
We spent a day checking out Puerto Lindo

We hung out at our hostel hosted by an expat American who churned out excellent pizzas while we played pingpong and hunted crabs in the yard through the window with an air rifle. Best hostel crab shooting ever!

The 5 day, $550 crossing left port at 8pm

to arrive Porvenir by early morning .

Here, at the start of the San Blas Islands is where we got our passport exit stamps. I had a chat with the captain about the Kuna people's independence from Panama and their ability to regulate foreign companies from profiting from their islands by closing the mainland road to the nearest port, allowing only those, like our captains, who do overnight trips to access the islands and pay them a visitors tax.

Some heavy rain.

Some great food

Some surgery. To remove mosquito eggs laid in a guy's foot. The sailors had scars from such excisions all over their bodies.

The San Blas Islands are truly special. The only place I've been that is close are the Gili islands in Indonesia.
This area is a slice of paradise

Although the few people who live on some of the islands might see it differently

After 2-3 days hanging around the islands and cruising through the tranquil, reef protected waters, we set sail towards Cartagena: 32-48 hours away. It took us 36 hours.

It is not pleasant, sailing in open waters. Most everyone on board did not feel well, about half the passengers vomited.

But we did have the pleasure of a pod of dolphins overtaking our boat at speed.

Cycling in Panama

2018-04-26T15:40:00.000-04:00

Crossing into Panama I felt like I had gone back to Mexico with how much trash there is on the side of the road-e.g. dirty diapers. Gross. At least there were more fruit stands again.

Soon after crossing into Panama and approaching the city of David, I found myself on what I would call a highway: high volume, high speed traffic. And this one had zero shoulder - I was very much in the way of one lane. 18 wheelers had to slow down and got stuck behind me trying to pass-- the worst 😣

At the same time I was also racing to beat a thunder storm... I lost. In the way on the highway, in the rain: a pretty dangerous situation... What's more, my 3rd and last mirror broke; something I spend much of my time looking into to manage traffic behind me.

Boquete

From David it was a modest 30mile, gradual 4500' climb to Boquete, a small touristy town set amongst many coffee plantations.

Took me about 3 hours in the morning to arrive, trying to make sure I beat the afternoon showers that have become regular the past week.

I was roundly rewarded with lovely, fresh mountain air and green mountain views.

As a testament to how fecund this area is they have a flower garden full of color.

In a social mood I went looking for some local conversation. Which I found in a locals bar and an artisinal coffee shop.

I sat down to wait for a haircut at a barbershop and found myself watching the barber give a completely bald guy a "haircut". I think the guy must have missed the experience so the barber humored him by going through the motions around his head. It was hilarious..I was laughing pretty hard inside.

I ended up staying in Boquete for 3 nights and went for a bike ride into the mountains each day o was there. The first ride was through the coffee plantations deep into the mountains up to a max of 5400'. So lush, so pretty, and no traffic. This area had some of the best air I've ever breathed: fresh, crisp, floral.

My 2nd ride took me a different direction into the surrounding mountains. It was stellar. The roads were really steep but without any weight on my bike it hardly put me into distress.

Climbing up this steep slope I caught up to a dog walking ahead of me ... When it saw me behind it started to run away up the hill.... But because it was so steep it could hardly go as fast as me... So I ended up 'chasing' it for a good 5 minutes until it arrived the driveway it was seeking before I overtook it. It was pretty cute.

There's a lot of wealth in this area...many expats move here. And for obvious reasons - very comfortable climate.

I stayed the night with some peace corps volunteers in San Felix by way of an airbnb guest I had a year ago I had at my place in Boston. Interesting to get a taste of what the lifestyle entails.

From their place I set out for the day through an area that looked like it would have nice views of a bay and less traffic than the main road. Turns out it was a fantastic ride but afforded nowhere to eat all day. As my running club friends would attest, I don't typically complain about the heat, only about the cold. But I almost lost another round to the heat stroke on this 60m/95k day. Full sun, 42c/105f, up and down hills for hours, and at times a head wind. Very trying conditions. I was hurting. If I hadn't found someone's hammock in the shade where I was able rest, I think the dizziness, fatigue, and nausea would have taken me over like it did a couple months back in Salvador. Beautiful views though :)

The next day was another day in harsh conditions. When I stopped for a break around mid day to rest under a tree, a mango fell next to me from the tree above. So I peeled and ate it. Delicious! Trying to knock another out of the tree, a women walked out of her house and offered me one. And with a long stick, knocked a few more out of the tree for me. And then brought me some watermelon. The kindness of strangers :)

Fruit stands are very welcome breaks.

And these bus stop shelters were super helpful to escape the sun and rest every now and again.

A cycle traveling family

I stayed with a Warmshowers host in Costa Rica a month ago who told me about a French family of 5 who had stayed with him a couple weeks prior. The parents and children- aged ~13,10,8- were cycling from Canada to South America as I am. Wow.

A couple days ago friend of mine in Boston linked me to a forum post on Facebook written by the father of the family. He was reporting that the family had been violently robbed on their way to catch a sailboat in Puerto Lindo. Just as I am preparing doing in a week.

I was struck by the small world connection between 2 totally separate people in my life and that it has helped me decide to not cycle that section, known to be dangerous.

So then I looked into this family and what they're up to. You can see from their travel blog below that this is their 2nd massive cycle tour. Their first was across Europe and around most of Asia. As a family. Wow.

https://leschamavelo.fr

The last section before Panama city was busy highway with fast traffic and sometimes very little to no shoulder. Kind of like approaching Boston on route 1 Saugus... Shitty

I reached Panama City!

After 12,000+ kilometers, I am grateful my last 2 days cycling in central america were cloudy with no wind and that I happened to arrive the American Bridge in Panama city during the 2 hour Sunday window it is closed to traffic for cycling! How ironic! Felt like a victory lap :)

Cycling in Costa Rica

2018-04-15T03:19:00.000-04:00

I crossed into Costa Rica with an ear infection on the first day of Semana Santa. Fortunately for me, in Latin America farmacies will generally sell you anything without doctor consultation first, so getting aural antibiotics was no issue - $2.
Having heard about how expensive CR is and it being the holy week (Latin America's most popular travel time next to Christmas), I was focused on avoiding touristy areas to avoid high accommodation prices. Food prices were about 3-4x what they were to the north, generally $8-15 for lunch/dinner. Yikes 😲

I first landed in La Cruz, nothing much to speak of except for a great view

I started the day unsure of where I was going: either to Liberia, a small city about 70k away or a Warmshowers stay in a no name town at the top of the Nicoya Península, another 65k further. The scenery continued to be striking, still a bit above sea level.

I ended up deciding to try to make it to the Warmshowers host, leaving Liberia in the afternoon after a nap in the park.
Riding into the sunset,

I arrived well after dark (which is very unusual for me). I was glad I missed the turn to the fellow's house, for I ended up in a small town with a restaurant to eat. As it turned out he had nothing to eat at his place...

Doubling back to find the turn I had missed, it was an unlit dirt road leading towards a residential kind of area. His house was a few kilómetros from the road, entirely unlit. So in the black of night, when I came to this small river that crossed the road, I was a bit surprised/shocked

Fortunately a car soon pulled up behind me and with its headlights I could see a log to walk across.

The Nicoya Península

Turns out this guy lived on a property with others in his family. And because it was Semana Santa, much of their extended family was there also. Most were also camping out like me.

It was an interesting opportunity for me to spend a couple nights with a family for Semana Santa - drinking, dancing, and hanging out.

I had heard that the roads in CR are generally terrible, so I tried to suss out in advance where would be se safer/smoother bet. Fortunately for me, I learned, many of the roads had been paved for the first time only WEEKS before I arrived. So I was able to cross the entire Nicoya peninsula on newly paved roads.

Turns out I arrived the end of the Nicoya Península on good Friday, the one day the ferry back to the mainland doesn't run. So I camped out at a restaurant nearby for the night.

On the ferry, like most everywhere, there was a bar and loud Latin music

I arranged a Warmshowers stay in Puntarenas. This person really had nothing to offer but the fence in front of his house. For I had only the cement front patio to sleep on, with street activity bothering me all night and my still deflating mattress ruining my sleep.

Jacó
One of my favorite spots of my trip: a hostel , with a beautiful pool and a bar /restaurant right on beautiful beach, in a reasonably developed town, and right near a supermarket to cook my own food. Having come to recognize/appreciate quality/value when I see it, I stayed 3 nights - about as long as I stay anywhere.

Cycling in much of Costa Rica was sensational. Mostly easier flat roads (on the west coast anyway) that are generally well paved, even with a shoulder sometimes. I give the road infrastructure here a B+ (mind you I give Boston an D- ).

Miles and miles of palm plantations

And a palm oil factory.

Whale tale beach National Park, Uvita

This iguana climbing in the tree next to my tent was about 4 feet long, biggest I've ever seen.

I've never seen a country with so many national parks. It's good to see there are still governments in the world who still respect our natural environment...

To my dismay, I learned by April 9th that the rainy season /winter starts earlier in the south of Costa Rica. Before the late April /May start I was anticipating/hoping for.
At least it's hot and rainy. Cold and rainy is a miserable combination on a bicycle.

The Osa península

Got a little beat up cycling 70k out to Puerto Jimenez on the Osa península. The first 40k was steep up and down, through the jungle, of course hot and humid. But what made it a bit more cumbersome: my chain started to slip. The last time I replaced it was in San Diego.

A family of Coatis walked into the middle of the street ahead of me. It seemed the babies stopped in the middle of the road and forced everyone to abort the mission and turn back. I hope I didn't interfere :/

Cycling in Nicaragua

2018-03-30T23:02:00.001-04:00

Soon after crossing into Nicaragua I stopped in a small town to check out some canyons I had heard about. About 15 years ago some European geologists walked with some local kids to where the kids had played for years. The geologists suggested they take tourists as well and an industry here was born.

From the Somoto Canyons, to Somoto to Esteli I lost my wallet. I travel with only the essentials in it and spares in my pannier, so I was prepared. Receiving a package while traveling to replace my primary cards was another matter, especially in a country where addresses do not exist.

Descending the mountains 140 kilometers from Esteli to Leon the temperature got up to 49C/120F, fortunately I go fast and the wind helps keep you cool.
My first active volcano sightings

Leon is a more attractive Nicaraguan city

And my accommodation had an active pool.

Turning south again I hopped to El Tránsito on the beach. A cool surf spot with little development and a couple cool spots to hang out by the beach. 10 miles of dirt road made it a bit difficult to get in/out of.

I had to stop in Managua to pick up a package-city cycling is always crazy.

Next was a short hop down to Granada, another colonial style city. Much busier /more traffic than I recall from 10 years ago.

Howler monkeys on the side of the road.

I always love to stop for some fast fruit to go.

Imagine this:
It's one thing for an 18 wheeler truck to pass from behind while other cars are coming in the opposite direction so the truck has to pass without giving any space. It is quite another thing, one that has indeed scared me and gotten my heart rate up, when an oncoming 18 wheeler Mac truck passes another car and comes straight at you, at a high speed with only a foot or two of space to pass. Weehoo is that scary!

I had a Warmshowers stay at a hostel /restaurant in Playa Gigante where the owner maintained a profile on the site that said there is an 'open door policy for cyclists' - free to stay, just sleep on an available hammock on wherever you like on the beach. Pretty chill spot this one.

I had no room, just a place to put my bike ..

Nice views from the cliffs.

Ometepe
2 volcanoes on an island in the middle of a lake in the middle of Nicaragua.

All along the western edge of the lake loads of windmills have recently been installed. I have to say I think they're a nice, optimistic sight.

San Juan del Sur /Playa el Coco
A friend's girlfriend who runs yoga retreats out of a rental house let me crash for a few night at her place. Pretty killer spot.

Also got a chance to check out a neat yoga retreat center

Even though things were revving up in SJDS for the first day of Semana Santa, I chose to leave. A worsening ear infection and people who thought it okay to start partying at 6am drove me out of there and to cross into Costa Rica.

Cycling in Honduras

2018-03-16T15:48:00.000-04:00

I set out from Nacaome to check out a small island in the gulf of Fonseca,

where I thought there would be an interesting view in all directions. I estimated 100k on the day, with a slow loop around the island.

It was a pretty nice ride to reach the little port town that shuttled people back and forth to the island.

I grabbed a fried fish for lunch

and caught a small boat across.

The island road was made of manufactured stone, which makes for a bumpy but manageable surface.

As no effort is made to clear brush /trees for lookouts, the views were mostly disappointing ointing.

After nearly damaging my bike on the boat crossing, I disembarked around 4pm, with the sun starting to set.

I had been told by 2 separate people that San Lorenzo is not a safe place, so I certainly didn't want to arrive after sunset here. Starting back began with a streepish climb over the side of a volcano. Just as I started climbing a bus pulled up behind me, laboring to accelerate up the hill. I took it as a challenge to stay ahead of it up the hill. I managed to for about half of the 30 minute ascent. And after the descent, I cranked it into racing gear for the 20 mile stretch to San Lorenzo.

About half way there I noticed that my foot was wobbling and realized that my bottom bracket was loose. This really concerned me, for this same problem forced me to hitchhike my way out of the Kootenay forest in Alberta Canada 1.5 years ago. Fortunately, that incident prompted me to buy a new multi-tool that has the Allen key to tighten the bottom bracket, so I was able to fix it. Few!

Made it into town by about 530 :)

Chuloteca
I stayed at Warmshowers with a family in Choluteca that frequently took in cyclists during the busy cycling season They had a mango tree with the biggest mangoes I've ever seen

Leaving Honduras for the Nicaraguan border I chose to head up into the mountains instead of staying along the coast.

I was mentally prepared for the 3500' climb, but I was not anticipating it would be towards the back side of a windfarm. And then up a wind tunnel of a valley....

Windmills make for nice scenery, though. Wish I had one in my backyard,

After about 3 hours of climbing I reached the "town" at the top of the mountain and looked for some place to eat lunch. There was only one little convenience store like place with the proprietors' dining room attached where they'd serve food out of their kitchen. After hearing the two options of pork or beef, I told them I'm normally a vegetarian who eats only fish and shrimp, a pescatarian, and that I'd like to have the option that is less meaty... JUST as I finished saying this, a man walks into the room with a trey of fresh shrimp asking the lady if she would like to buy some. To which I said "yes"! I couldn't believe the coincidental irony!

Before he left on his motorcycle I asked him how often he makes deliveries here, he said twice a week. How about those odds 😀