hunzo

climbing in hunza

2009-07-26T22:06:00.001-07:00

There are several spectacular peaks below 6500M among the ranges of the Himalayas, the Karakoram, the Hindu-Kush and the Pamir in the trekking routes. These peaks are called trekking peaks and open to climb, for which royalty, climbing permit, liaison officer and other formalities are NOT required. If the peak is situated in the restricted area then you need the trekking permit from the Ministry of Tourism through a Government licensed agency with paying fee, which is 50 US dollar per person. It is also requires to hire licensed guide, buy a personal accident insurance policy also for porters and cook, will attend the mandatory briefing and de-briefing at the Ministry of Tourism.

karakarum highway

2009-07-25T01:42:00.000-07:00

The Karakoram Highway
is one of those legendary roads to travel in Asia. The name implies it's a big 2 or 4 way street. In fact, it's not even close to a "highway" but it is a road. This road is the road that connects Pakistan to China, for many years. It's a magnificent road!

I know, I should be more precise, the Karakoram Highway, or KKH as it is known starts actually in Abbottabad. Up to this town the road is 4 way street and pretty busy.

The legend of the KKH is long and spectacular. Everybody has heard of the legendary Silk Road. As the legend goes, it was the road where silk was transported from China to Europe. The truth of the Silk Road is slightly different.

In the old days there were no merchants traveling the whole route. In fact, silk and other goods from China were transported via different roads, which includes the legendary road Marco Polo traveled. However, goods were usually traded in cities on the roads going west and south (looking from Chinese perspective.

Trucks on the Karakoram Highway Pakistan
Trucks like this one all the time passing by

Therefore we can't say there was one Silk Road. In fact, there were many. The Karakoram Highway as we know the road nowadays was one of those Silk Roads. From Kashgar (or Kashi as it is known in China) goods were transported over the Khunjarab Pass to the lower lands of the western Indian subcontinent. It was a hard and dangerous road. And even today, it's still a hard road.

I have traveled the Karakoram Highway two times. It's a beautiful experience. As said above, the road starts in Abbottabad and goes north following the Indus to the Khunjarab Pass. The last 15 kilometers are hairpin curves to the pass and then the road swindles down to a more widespread open land with mountains surrounding and gorgeous lakes. In my humble opinion, some of the most beautiful landscapes I have seen where on this road.

Most people start in Islamabad and cycle from there on a modern 4 way street to Abbottabad, the official starting point of the Karakoram Highway.

hunza,shimshal valley

2009-07-23T21:01:00.000-07:00

Valley Of Shimshal

Shimshal Valley is one of the remotest valleys of the Hunza Valley. It was supposed to be a place of exile for theives and dacoits in the earlier times (something like Siberia and Australia) but it is no less beautiful. The jeep track just leaves the KKH just north of Passu for Shimsal which is one of the most wonderful places in Hunza. No thieves or dacoits now! You can also take the much more interesting hiking route to Shimsal. Porters are easily available.

One natural & most dangerous thing is to cross the rivers in Shimshal valley by perilous aerial runways, alone among the powerful elements(cable bridges) but its all a great fun..These are made by local people with local resources & area used to carry people & luggage..

Shimshal is a farming and herding community of some 1100 inhabitants, situated at the north-eastern extreme of both the former principality of Hunza (now part of Gilgit Administrative District), and the modern state of Pakistan. Most settlement occupies the upper portion of a valley of the same name, which descends west into the Hunza River valley at Pasu, and which separates the Ghujerab and Hispar Mustagh ranges of the Karakoram mountain system.The villages are situated on a series of glacial and alluvial deposits that form a broad strip between the river's floodplain and steep mountain slopes to the south. These deposits have been terraced for several hundred years. They are irrigated by the meltwater nalas which currently dissect them. In addition, the lowest terraces are irrigated from the river itself. The cultivated area, covering about 250 hectares, lies between 3000 and 3300 metres above sea level, at the upper limits of single crop cultivation. People grow hardy cereals (wheat and barley), potatoes, peas and beans, apricots and apples. Small quantities of garden vegetables are also grown by some households. These are one of the few communities remaining in Pakistan's Northern Areas that grows enough agricultural produce to feed itself.

Historical Background

According to one of several popular histories of the community, the village of Shimshal was founded some four centuries ago by Mamu Singh, a Burusho from Baltit (Central Hunza), and a member of the Wazir's (prime-minister's) family. Mamu Singh was sent to Sarikol, Central Asia, as ambassador, but later fled Sarikol with his Wakhi wife Khodija, when relations with Hunza deteriorated. They were pursued into the Upper Hunza River Valley, as far as Avgarch Pasture on the slopes of Qarun Pir, where they made their home for several years before migrating into the lower reaches of the Shimshal Valley. There Mamu Singh built up his flocks of sheep and goats, and explored up the Shimshal Valley, eventually discovering a hole in the ground, whose mouth was covered with a great piece of slate. When he succeeded in removing the stone, water gushed from the hole and flowed along the remains of a channel that had been built by earlier travellers who had passed that way on their way over Pamir to Chinese Turkestan. Here in disrepair, but already constructed, was a channel from which Mamu Singh could build a village. At this time he was an elderly man, without children. However, after a miraculous visit from a holy man named Shams, Khodija gave birth to a son, by the name of Sher. Sher grew quickly to be big and strong, and an especially fine hunter. On one of his hunting trips he wandered up a side valley onto the Pamir, where he met a group of strangers, who had with them a number of horses and one small yak. Both Sher and the party of strangers claimed the Pamir as their own. Eventually they agreed to resolve the dispute with a polo game, using all Pamir as the playing field: if Sher drove the ball over Shimshal Pass toward Shuwert, he would win title to all territory from Shimshal to Raskam; if the Chinese succeeded in carrying the ball to Shuijerab, Sher must relinquish all lands from Pamir to the Hunza River. Riding the yak, against the strangers' horses, Sher succeeded in driving the ball over Shimshal Pass and beyond Shuwert. Having won the territory Sher began at once to explore it as far as Raskam. Half a year later, when his family had finally given him up for lost, Sher returned to Shimshal. He eventually married a Wakhi women from Sarikol, who bore him several sons, the descendants of whom founded the three main lineage groupings of Shimshal: Gazikator, Bakhtikator and Baqikator. Soon after, their forefathers established fealty with the ruler of Hunza, becoming the first Wakhi-speaking community in Hunza, the first permanent settlement in what is now Gojal (Wakhi speaking upper Hunza), and one of Hunza's first communities to be a mix of Wakhi and Burusho social and cultural organisation from its origin. Fifteen generations have passed since Sher's adventures. Late in the last century a missionary from Sarikol ventured into Hunza, and preached the Ismaili gospel to the ruler of Hunza, who accepted the faith and endeavoured to convert his subjects. Shimshalis have been devout Ismailis since then.

More recent historical events are also recounted in local stories, and are corroborated in the published accounts of foreign visitors. Some dozen parties of foreigners visited Shimsili community during the period from 1891 to 1975. Since the mid-eighties foreign and down country travellers have visited Shimshal with increasing frequency. Early exploration accounts stressed the community's isolation, its apparent autonomy from the kingdom of Hunza, its usefulness as a place from which to stage raids across Shimshal Pass on caravans travelling the Leh to Yarkand route, and its susceptibility to catastrophic glacier dam-burst floods. The most recent of these floods occurred in 1964, destroying many terraces and half the original clustered settlement. Since then Shimshalis have rebuilt on a dispersed pattern, and have redoubled their land settlement efforts, extending the area of terraced fields, improving (and re-improving) pasture areas, and developing terraces and plantations in some pastures and along the route into Shimshal.

Shimshali men are amongst the world’s best mountain climbers. Some of them have been to all 5 Peaks of Pakistan higher than 8,000 meter. Most prominent names, are Ashraf Aman, Shambi Khan, and Rajab Shah. Quite recently (In May 2006), a 15 years girl of Shimshal Village, alongwith her two brothers, climbed the Malongdati Sar, a peak in Shimshal, higher than 6,000 meter. She has the owner to be the first and the youngest Pakistani female mountain climber.

Wildlife

The Shimshal area is rich in fauna and many threatened wildlife species are found in this area. It is the only place where Tibetan Wild Ass (Equus bemionus kiang), and Blue Sheep (Pseudois nayaur) are found. Snow leopard (Uncia uncia), Himalayan ibex (Felis lynx) and, Golden Marmots (Marmota caudate) are also found in Shimsha

passu hunza

2009-07-18T23:44:00.000-07:00

Passu is a village of farmers and mountain guides 15 kilometres (nine miles) beyond Gulmit. This is the setting-off point for climbing expeditions up the Batura, Passu, Kurk and Lupgar groups of peaks, and for trekking trips up the Shimshal Valley and Batura Glacier. The Passu Inn, right beside the road, is the meeting place for mountaineers and guides.

Very friendly people here too. Cathedral Peak is the most beautiful mountains here. Its so steep very little snow sticks to it. The Golden Peak Range also lies near here. Check out the hanging bridges over the Hunza River.

You have to get up pretty early in the morning if you want to see a beautiful sunrise over Gulmit or Passu cathedrals. The arches on the mountain makes a setting for a beautiful and colorful show, with sun's rays hitting the ridge at an angle...resulting in a panoramic dance of light and shadows observed on the mountain ranges.

It is reccomended that the best views are from a town called Passu.

Batura Passu glacier is 35 kms from Karimabad& its 65 km long which makes it 5th longest in the world.Near Passu the majestic Batura Glacier, 60 kilometres long, nudges the edge of the Highway. The glacier is in a constant state of advance and retreat and, as recently as 1976, it devoured both the road and the bridge that crossed over the river. Further on is the white expanse of the Passu Glacier , gigantic and awe-inspiring, an utter contrast to the grey ice of the Batura.

Passu is the mixing bowl of ancient civilization and dream of nature lovers, is well known about its extraordinary contrast of landscapes of the world.Passu is one of the most beautiful village of Pakistan.Situated in the spectacular karakoram Mountains on the old silk route 150 km from Gilgit in the west banks of Hunza River and border on China.It has a unique place on the World map. With a rich history and deep rooted culture. It invites to its breath taking surrounding many adventurers, eco-tourist, historians and nature lovers. This famous village, its towering peaks ever flowing streams its fascinating heritage and above all its hospitable People make it a place worth visiting. Passu is considered the worlds heights landmass, where there is nothing below 2500 matters, Passu is surrounded by some of the world most famous peaks, glaciers and lakes, such as Passu peak 7284, Shisper peak 7611, Batura, 7785, and the most remarkable is Passu cathedral peak6500, in the shadow of lofty mountains are the Passu glacier with white skin and Batura glacier with both at the length of 56km, which is the fifth largest glacier of the world. Human’s era passes generation to generation.Passu village is devastated four times in the past. Its first era of human generation is included 3000bc to 5000bc.one can see arts of ibex and zebra in different rocks. It shows that people are started to live here so early.

altit fort

2009-07-18T23:36:00.000-07:00

Altit Fort is an ancient fort above Karimabad in the Hunza valley in the Northern Areas of Pakistan. It was home to the hereditary rulers of the Hunza state who took the title Mir. Today Altit Fort is a tourist site.

The Altit Fort was in great disrepair, but is currently being restored by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture Historic Cities Support Programme.

histry of baltit fort

2009-07-18T23:28:00.000-07:00

In olden times a number of small independent states existed in the history of Northern Areas of Pakistan. Among them Hunza and Nager were the traditional rival states, situated on opposite sides of the Hunza (kanjut) river. The rulers of these two states, known as Thámo / Mirs (Thάm=S), built various strongholds to express their power.

According to historical sources {Ref: Tarikh-e-Ehd Atiiq Riyasat Hunza by Haji Qudratullah Baig, Pub: S.T.Printers Rawalpindi 1980 Pakistan}, the Hunza rulers initially resided in the Altit Fort, but later as a result of a conflict between the two sons of the ruler Sultan, Shah Abbas (Shάboos) and Ali Khan (Aliqhάn), Shaboos shifted to the Baltit Fort, making it the capital seat of Hunza.

The power struggle between the two brothers eventually resulted in the death of younger one, and so Baltit Fort further established itself as the prime seat of power in the Hunza state.

The rich beauty of Baltit Fort can be traced to over seven hundred 700 years ago. Ayasho II, Tham / Mir of Hunza in the early 15th fifteenth century married Princess Shah Khatoon (Sha Qhatun) from Baltistan (In Moghul history Baltistan is called Tibet Khurd mean, little Tibet), and was the first to modify the face of Altit and, subsequently Baltit Fort. Baltistan meaning land of Balti people had a very strong cultural and ethnical relation with the Ladakh territory of India then. Consequently, the structure of Baltit Fort was influenced by the Ladakhi / Tibetan architecture, with some resemblance to the Potala palace in Lahasa.

hunza winter

2009-07-09T00:55:00.001-07:00

The Hunza people sun dried fruit in the summer and stored grain for winter consumption. They also had some meat. They consumed all parts of the animals, not just the flesh. They ate the animal's brain, lungs, heart, liver, tripe, flesh and everything else except the hide, wind-pipe and genitalia. They cleaned bones to a polish and broke them to eat the marrow. The fat was highly favored for cooking, and a stew was made by boiling meat and grains.

Mount Karadoram near Aliabad, Hunza.Mountain Karakoram as seen from Aliabad village. Click on the picture to see an enlargement.

The Yaks, goats and sheep were bred each year for the meat and to keep the milk production flowing. The females were kept for breeding and milk production until reaching a non productive age when they were also slaughtered for food. Any lame animal was slaughtered to prevent the loss of meat. The food supply was critical and springtime starvation was always a concern for hungry children.

The Hunzakuts had a major flaw in their method of raising animals. They kept equal numbers of male and female, which reduced the productivity. If a Hunza farmer had six sheep he would have three ewes and three rams. The ewes would have three lambs each spring. The production could have been increased to five lambs each spring if they had kept five ewes and one ram. The rams also ate more fodder but produced no milk. The same was true for goats. This faulty farming practice reduced the amount milk, meat and number of offspring each year.

During the winter a major part of the diet consisted of milk, buttermilk, yogurt, butter and cheese. The diet was a high-fat diet throughout the year contrary to false claims that their diet was low-fat. The milk was more than 50 percent fat on a calorie basis and nothing was wasted.

The spring starvation was a difficult period for the Hunzakuts. The children were extremely thin and malnourished. Diseases abound and many died. The "healthy Hunza" claim made in many books and websites is strictly false.

hunza summer diet

2009-07-09T00:44:00.000-07:00

The British General and soldiers arrived in the summer during the 1870s as did everyone who traveling to Hunza. This was the harvest season for the grains, fruits and vegetables from the gardens, and much of the food was consumed raw. Because fuel for cooking was saved to be used in winter for boiling meat and providing some heat for the stone dwellings, very little meat was consumed in summer and vegetable were eaten raw.

Curious visitors who followed the British soldiers to Hunza Valley years later naturally arrived in summer also, and the summer diet of the people led visitors to assume they were mainly vegetarian and ate very little meat. This was typical of the summer harvest season. Many primitive cultures including cavemen lived in a similar manner, gorging themselves on available fruit during the short season and eating mostly meat for the rest of the year. The people of Hunza differed in that they never had an abundance of anything except rocks. They did not have enough animals to provide abundant meat during the winter because of the lack of fodder. They did not want to kill female animals that were milk producers unless the animal was old or lame.

Hunza Apricots.The Hunzakuts are said to have cultivated plants included barley, millet, wheat, buckwheat, turnips, carrots, dried beans, peas, pumpkins, melons, onions, garlic, cabbage, cauliflower, apricots, mulberries, walnuts, almonds, apples, plums, peaches, cherries, pears and pomegranates. John Clark did not find green beans, wax beans, beets, endive, lettuce, radishes, turnips, spinach, yellow pear tomatoes, Brussel sprouts or parsley. Cherry tomatoes and potatoes are thought to have been brought in by the British. The long list of currently grown plant varieties should not be a consideration when discussing the longevity of the Hunzakuts and their past diet.

Apricot trees were very popular, and the fruit was eaten raw in season and sun dried for winter. The pits were cracked to obtain the kernel that was crushed to obtain the oil for cooking and lamps. The hard shell was kept for a fire fuel. The kernel and oil could be eaten from the variety of apricots with a sweet kernel, but the bitter kernel variety had an oil containing poisonous prussic acid. Click the picture to see an enlargement.

The apricot trees were allowed to grow very large in order to obtain the maximum yield. Picking the maximum amount of fruit was more important than the difficulty in picking. The children would scamper to the higher branches to pick or shake off the fruit. Planting new trees required several years of growth before any fruit was produced. The special garden silt or glacial milk did not contribute to the age or size of the trees as is commonly claimed. Our modern orchards are not managed that way because we have abundant space and picking is expensive. Our trees are cut when the size makes them difficult to harvest, not because they fail to live as long as those in Hunza.

Mulberries, which resemble blackberries in size and shape, are a favorite fruit. When fully ripe, their flavor is sweet-sour but somewhat bland. The variety grown in Hunza was most likely a golden color.

YakA large variety of indigenous wildlife including markhors sheep, Marco Polo sheep, geese, ducks, pheasants and partridge provided the early Hunza hunters with meat in addition to their sheep, goats and domesticated Yaks. Chickens were also raised for meat and eggs until sometime in the 1950s when they were banned by the Mir.

The Queen and her children traveled on Yaks while the King and other men rode horses. The Yak is a strong wild animal which they domesticated for for traveling in the mountains as a beast of burden pack animal. In addition to Yaks, which provided milk and meat, the Hunzakuts also had goats, sheep, cows and horses. However, there were very few cows or horses in Hunza in 1950 because they consumed a lot of fodder compared to goats and sheep. The Yaks, goats and sheep were herded in the summer to areas just below the snow line for feeding on sparse grasses and plants. They were milked by the herders who made butter that was delivered back to the people in the villages below. The herders had plenty of milk to drink that valley people lacked. The Yaks were also milked. Cows and horses could not be herded to the higher elevation because the vegetation there was simply to sparse.

Cathedral Peak near Aliabad, Hunza.The picture is of the Cathedral Peaks as viewed from the village of Ghulmit 23 miles (37 km) upriver from Baltit near the northern end of Hunza. Summer grains are seen growing in the foreground. The Mir's main Palace was in Baltit, but since firewood was more abundant in Ghulmit, he chose this location for his winter residence. Click the picture to see an enlargement.

A great celebration was held to commemorate the barley harvest, the first harvest of the early summer to break the spring starvation period. The barley was ground, mixed with water and fried to make a pancake style bread called chapatis, and hot stones were used for cooking the bread prior to the availability of steel plate or cast iron griddles. The bread recipe would change to whatever grain was available. Wheat was harvested later in the summer. The Hunza bread recipe found in books and on websites is nothing whatsoever like the various breads of the Hunzakuts. The primitive Hunzakuts ground grains between two rocks much like the North American Indians. They had constructed a water wheel powered stone grinder by the time John Clark had arrived, but many people still ground the grain by hand.

To their credit, the Hunzakuts did developed a double-crop farming method. Barley was the first crop harvested, then replaced by millet. Wheat was harvested later in the summer followed by winter buckwheat. The double-crop planting method was done to make the maximum use of the valuable land, not because grains matured faster in Hunza as often claimed.

In summer meat was conserved for very special occasions and festivals. Livestock were much too valuable to be killed indiscriminately, so animals became a major source of food only during the cold winter when other foods ran out.

discovery of hunza valley

2009-07-09T00:33:00.001-07:00

A British General and a garrison of solders on horseback investigated the Hunza River Valley in the 1870s. Hunza was a tiny kingdom located in a remote valley 100 miles (160 km) long and only one mile (1.6 km) wide, situated at an elevation of 8,500 feet (2590 m) and completely enclosed by mountain peaks. These peaks soar to a height of 25,550 feet (7788 m) and belong to the Karakoram Range, broadly known in the West as "the Himalayas." Hunza is now part of Pakistan in the northern section bordering on Afghanistan, Russia, China, Kashmir and India. The Kilik Pass leads to Russia and the Mintaka Pass to China.

The pass to reach Hunza from Gilgit, Pakistan was 13,700 feet (4176 m) high, a difficult and treacherous trail. Upon entering the valley the British found the steep, rocky sides of the valley lined with terraced garden plots, fruit trees and animals being raised for meat and milk.

The gardens were watered with mineral rich glacier water carried by an aqueduct system running a distance of 50 miles (80 km) from the Ultar Glacier on the 25,550 foot (7788 m) high Mount Rakaposhi. The wooden aqueduct trough was hung from the sheer cliffs by steel nails hammered into the rock walls. Silt from the river below was carried up the side of the valley to form and replenish the terraced gardens. The average annual precipitation in Hunza is less than two inches.

Ultar Peak near Baltit, Hunza.Ultar Peak rising above Baltit, the capital of Hunza, is spectacular. The Old Palace is on the hill above the village. Click the picture to see an enlargement.

The difficult trail into Hunza kept the people isolated. As late as 1950 most of the children of Hunza had never seen a wheel or a Jeep even though airplanes were landing at the airport in Gilgit, Pakistan only 70 miles (112 km) away. John Clark reported in his book, Hunza - Lost Kingdom of the Himalayas, that he could see three peaks above 25,000 feet and eleven glaciers all at once from Shishpar Glacier Nullah (canyon) overlooking the Hunza valley.

The Hunzakuts, as they are called, had signed a peace treaty with their neighboring communities about 10 years prior to the arrival of the British. They had been a warrior community preying upon the Chinese trading caravans as they traveled the high mountain passes between Sin kiang and Kashmir. The Hunzakuts profited for a time by their thievery, plunder and murder, but they were hated by their neighbors. According to Hunzakut folklore, a peace treaty was signed because the Mir's son convinced his father to end their murderous ways.

Burushaski, the language of the Hunzakuts, is much different from other languages of the region and appears to be a mixture of the languages of Ancient Macedonian and the Hellenistic Persian Empire. However, the people also learned to speak the written Urdu language of Pakistan and other languages of the region.

Hunza Terraced Gardens.The terraced gardens were extensive with up to 50 cascading levels. The people lived in communities below. It was a considerable distance to walk for working in the fields. They had no roads or wheeled carts. All the grain and other produce was transported to the homes on the backs of men and animals.

Everything in Hunza valley was always in short supply except crumbling rocks. Fuel for heating and cooking was severely limited, and fodder for feeding the animals was precious. Animal dung was used for garden fertilizer rather than fuel for fires as was done elsewhere. Supplies from outside of the valley were limited by the difficulty in bring goods over the high mountain pass. Highly prized goods brought in from the outside included guns, knifes, tools, metal pots, stoves, lamps, cotton cloth, silk cloth, thread, needles, matches, mirrors, glassware and some construction metals such as bolts, rods, sheet and plate. As late as 1951 these items had to be carried on the backs of men or animals. In past centuries traditional dress and bedding were made from sheepskins and other animal hides.

The original valley was mostly bare rock with a very limited amount of indigenous plant life. The sudden appearance of the vegetation in contrast to the surrounding barren rock earned the valley the description of being Shangri-La or the Garden of Eden. Given the hard work required to tend the gardens and animals, the description of Garden of Eden certainly did not apply to the Hunza River Valley.

Mir Safdar Ali Khan in Hunza.Mir Muhammed Ghazan Khan I ruled from 1864 to 1886. Folklore stories say he sent his brother a gift of a cloak impregnated with smallpox and murdered his uncle and other brothers, but the facts are rather unknown. He was murdered in 1886 by Safdar Ali Khan who became the new ruler of Hunza. Mir Safdar Ali Khan is shown in the picture at the left. Click the picture to see an enlargement. In 1891 an expedition of 5,000 men lead by British Colonel Algernon Durand was attacked by the Hunzakut leader, Mir Safdar Ali Khan. The Mir fled to China and was replaced by his half-brother, Muhammed Nazim Klan. Mir Nazim Klan died in 1938 of mysterious causes, and it is highly suspect that his son, Muhammed Ghazan Khan II, was involved in his death. He died in 1946 and was replaced by his son, Muhammed Jamal Khan. Mir Muhammed Jamal Khan was deposed in 1974 by Pakistan although he maintained his property in Hunza. He died in Gilgit, Pakistan in 1976 were he also had a residence. Mir Muhammed Jamal Khan could also speak perfect English because he had been educated by the British as a boy. His descendents maintain their royal titles but have no ruling authority in Hunza.

cooking in hunza

2009-07-09T00:19:00.000-07:00

cooking in hunza

Taste has a strong effect on our sense of well-being and our social identity. Food informs us who we are, how well we are, and even how far we are from home. Few things are more intimately linked, more closely implicated, and more sweetly (or bitterly) sensed in our life’s journey than food. Just how closely food resonates with other changes in a society is, therefore, an intriguing issue.

In northern Pakistan, in the high valley of Hunza, food practices have changed profoundly during the last 50 to 60 years. For decades, access to Hunza, in the heart of the Karakoram mountains (Western Himalayas), was quite difficult. But following its secession in 1947 from the maharajah’s government of Jammu and Kashmir, Hunza shifted from an indentured agricultural economy, anchored by local hereditary rule (mirdom), to a state-driven national and global market economy. A benchmark of these changes was the completion in 1978 of the international Karakoram Highway. Traversing the valley, the highway became a thoroughfare between Islamabad and Beijing, and it opened Hunza to a variety of extraordinary changes. The changes in food and foodways reflect much of what happened and bring to view a new awareness of what “traditional” means.

It is actually something of an irony to document this cooking as “traditional” because most Hunza households are still making the dishes reproduced here. The difference is that older people knew a time before the construction of the Karakoram Highway when rice, chutneys, curries, processed sweets and other delectables were rare. Now they are commonplace in local bazaars, and younger people accept the various national and global products as ordinary. Yet with the opening of Hunza to outside influences, local women saw Pakistani foods privileged over their local dishes. They saw the time-honored fare that they offered as young brides relegated to sideshow events at community celebrations. They recognized that, as the new and tasty foods from beyond the valley became popular, part of their own identities was being diminished and marginalized Baby lying next to old woman.as “traditional.” Disappearing from view was the earlier context to which both the food and the women who cooked it belonged. If you were to read these recipes from the perspective of an elder Hunzakutz, you would know the time of year any dish was eaten, as well as its place in a disciplined sequence of annually consumed foods. You would also know folktales to go with different dishes, steeped in tradition, told and retold.

Overlooked by the shining slopes of Rakaposhi, which rise nearly 6000 meters (19,200') from the valley floor, the apricot orchards and wheat fields of the Hunza Valley wind along the Hunza River.
Overlooked by the shining slopes of Rakaposhi, which rise nearly 6000 meters (19,200') from the valley floor, the apricot orchards and wheat fields of the Hunza Valley wind along the Hunza River. Top: Over less than a generation, Hunza foodways have adopted many imports that come via the Karakoram Highway that runs through the valley, connecting Islamabad to the south with China to the north.
MAP: MARIELLE PALEY
Over less than a generation, Hunza foodways have adopted many imports that come via the Karakoram Highway that runs through the valley, connecting Islamabad to the south with China to the north.

The disappearing context that cradled such stories also included the punishing labor of women’s lives. They tended fields scattered up the mountainside, while at the same time raising babies and feeding their families. They carried loads on their backs that weakened their knees and stiffened their joints. They raced against time and shuddered at the tempests of rain and sandstorms, hoping to protect their perishable harvests. In their “free” time, they searched for salty-tasting earth and hauled it back home to enrich their cooking stock.

While preparing the dishes for this book, the women of Karimabad in the Hunza Valley lamented that their recipes could never taste the same as they had in the past. Salt sold in the bazaar, either granulated or as hunks of rock, had a different flavor than salt from local sources, they said. Flour formerly ground at a local water mill had a different texture than the flour now produced by an electric mill, and this was different again from flour imported from China. For the oldest, the bokhari (steel oven) had itself been an innovation, for they had learned to cook at the shee (hearth), using stone pots, when there was no shuli (stovepipe) to remove smoke from the single-room farmhouse. All of them knew the difference in taste between phitti (wild-yeast bread) buried to bake in hot ashes and phitti baked in an electric oven. All knew a time when there was only one cooked meal in a day—two, if they were lucky—and when a meal was a single dish sometimes eaten out of a common pot. They also knew that their simplicity and their manners sometimes embarrassed young people: Why offer the same glass of water to others when there were glasses enough for everyone, a younger person might ask—and yet elders remember when there was only one glass in the house and it was customary to offer that filled vessel to everyone present before raising it to one’s own parched lips.
A woman uses a wood-fueled stove inside her home in the town of Karimabad. Rice does not grow at Hunza’s altitude, but wheat thrives, and it provides the staple grain of Hunza cuisine.
Left: A woman uses a wood-fueled stove inside her home in the town of Karimabad. Right: Rice does not grow at Hunza’s altitude, but wheat thrives, and it provides the staple grain of Hunza cuisine.

So it is that the “traditional” underlies life-shaping experiences. The Karimabad women thus added something of their life histories to the recipes we collected through their fierce labors of love, which have made generations of women and their fathers, husbands, brothers, sons and daughters happy and well-nourished. We, in collecting these recipes, and you, in recreating them, honor the cultural heritage of the unspoken heroes and heroines of Hunza.

hunza geography

2009-07-08T22:47:00.001-07:00

HUNZA
Hunza Valley is a mountainous valley in Gilgit in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of the Northern Areas of Pakistan. The Hunza valley is situated at an elevation of 2,438 metres (7,999 feet). The territory of Hunza is about 7,900 km² {3,050 mi²). Karimabad (formerly called Baltit) is the main town, which is also a very popular tourist destination because of the spectacular scenery of the surrounding mountains like Ultar Sar, Rakaposhi, Bojahagur Duanasir II, Ghenta Peak, Hunza Peak, Darmyani Peak and Bublimating (Ladyfinger Peak), all 6000 m (19,685 ft) or higher.

Hunza was formerly a princely state bordering China to the North-East and Pamir to its North-West, which continued to survive until 1974, when it was finally dissolved by Zulfiqar Ali Bhutto. The state bordered the Gilgit Agency to the south, the former princely state of Nagar to the east. The state capital was the town of Baltit (also known as Karimabad) and its old settlement is Ganish Village.

Hunza was an independent principality for more than 900 years. The British gained control of Hunza and the neighbouring valley of Nagar between 1889 and 1892 followed by a military engagement of severe intensity. The then Thom (Prince) Mir Safdar Ali Khan of Hunza fled to Kashghar in China and sought what can be called political asylum.

The most authentic and dependable notables and the best of oral tradition narrator of Hunza, through generations, have narrated the tale of Alexander the Great. When he conquered all the cities and countries and brought them under his sway, he finally consolidated and established his court of justice. The hordes of the armies of the king were returning through this place (Hunza Valley) from the direction of China, While this army was passing through this valley, four persons of this force Shaano, Safar, Mamoo and Fulolo fell ill. On this the commander of this Army appointed and detailed the fifth person Mughal Titam as the caretaker of this small ill group. He was tasked to look after the remaining four persons until they all had recuperated from their diseases. He was ordered that once, by the grace of God, when they all were healthy and normal they were to make efforts to reclaim and settle this valley and make it irrigable and inhabitable.

After that every horseman and the foot soldier of the rest of the passing army was ordered to contribute a fistful of barley and flour as a contribution from each man respectively, as the rations for the sustenance of these five men, It is said that the amount of barley and flour collected in this manner had lasted for next three years as rations for this group of five men. After this stop over the rest of the army left this place and marched towards Gilgit. Once this army arrived at Gilgit a commander. named as Shah Raees, was detailed and appointed to reclaim and inhabit Gilgit valley. He managed to reclaim Gilgit valley and commenced to rule this valley, It is since this period /era that the family /clan of rulers of Gilgit have been named With the title of “Raeesay”.

However the second version of this tale has been narrated thus; that when Sultan Sikander (King Alexander the great) conquered most of the countries of this side of the world and brought them under his reign, he turned towards his mother land with great pomp and show During this Journey back home when he reached the city of Babal (Babylone) he fell fatally sick. However,. before his death and while on his death bed. he equally allotted (apportioned and granted) his conquered lands among four of his trusted commanders of his army. Among them there was a commander by the name of Bakhtaria and he was the ruler of Tartaristan. After passage of a number of years this very military commander passed through this valley at the head of his army while returning from his campaign. The five above mentioned persons left behind at this place were from this army who had fallen sick and had reclaimed and inhabited this valley after they had fully recovered from their illness.

Yet another version of the "first settlers" of Hunza Valley is narrated by the ancient era oral tradition as follows: That a great revolution (of unspecified nature) occurred in the country of "Tartar" having its capital in a city called Takla Makan. This country was also known/called as "Bakhtaria" by some, and it was Inhabited by various clans and tribes; like Mughuls and Hunns. Because of the above mentioned great revaluation the people of this country were compelled and forced to flee in great numbers. it was during this large scale exodus and forced migration by the people of the Tartaristan/ Bakhtaria (Bactria) that a large group of these fleeing refugees comprising men, women and children along With their entire belongings and domestic animals passed through the present day valley to Hunza, which was during that era called and known as "Hari Yol" or "Ha Ha Yol, meaning the valley of happiness, and merry making. It was from amongst this passing group of fleeing refugees that one Mr. Mughal Titam of Mughal tribe was injured and temporarily disabled to walk as a result of his horse's kicking blows to his leg/thighs. He was therefore unable to proceed further and to undertake a long journey. Hence the leader/commander of the entire group of refugees detailed the four men, namely Messrs Safar, Shaano, Mamoo and Fulolo as the servants and caretakers of Mr. Mughal Titam and left them behind Rest of the migrating refugees group continued its march towards Gilgit Valley and on arrival reclaimed and inhabited this valley. Many of the refugees then dispersed into many other directions and Surrounding valleys.

In short; when Mr. Mughal Titam recuperated and recovered from his injury he and his four companions commenced their work to make this barren valley irrigable and inhabitable. Messrs Shaano, Safar and Mamoo remained in the company of Mughal Titam in Baltit and Mr. Fulolo made his abode in Ganish. It is said that Mughal Titam had a son by the name of Mughal Diram. This Mughal Diram had three sons, their names were; the first was Diram Pun, second Diram Budin, and the third was called Diram Muko. Following is the family tree of one of the first settlers of Hunza Valley (who was the leader):-

By the grace of Almighty there reached a stage and era when the children of all these three brothers grew info a large tribe, This tribe became known as "Diram hupkuyantsze" (DIRAM THAP KUYANTS). The tribe was also called as Diram Harai (DIRAM HARA'Y). This tribe ruled the remaining people of Hunza. However they remained under the sUzarainty of heirs of Shah Raees, the ruler of Gilgit.

The other four persons i.e. Shaano, Safar, Mamoo and Fulolo also had many children and offsprings and over a period of time each of them grew Into a separate whole tribe. The generations of children of Mr. Safar are called as Safar Harai (SAFAR HARA'Y) tribe. The offsprings of Mr. Shaano became known as SHAHNO KUTZS (SANO KUTS). In the present era, they are called Barataling (BARATALlNG). Their abode or village is named Shaano Kushal (SANOKUSHAL).

However Mr. Fulolo's generation did not grow into a large tribe as his subsequent generations had less offsprings Hence as of present time this family consists of a few houses settled in village Ganish However as a tradition every event of importance and festival is inaugurated and initiated from the hands of members of this noble clan even till the present day. This clan or family is called "Fulolokutzs" (FULLOLOKUTS).

Although never ruled directly by neighbouring Kashmir, Hunza was a vassal of Kashmir from the time of Maharaja Ranbir Singh of Jammu and Kashmir. The Mirs of Hunza sent an annual tribute to the Kashmir Durbar until 1947, and along with the ruler of Nagar, was considered to be among the most loyal vassals of the Maharaja of Kashmir

The ruling family of Hunza is called Ayeshe (heavenly), from the following circumstance. The two states of Hunza and Nager were formerly one, ruled by a branch of the Shahreis, the ruling family of Gilgit, whose seat of government was Nager. Tradition relates that Mayroo Khan, apparently the first Mohommedan Thum of Nager some 200 years after the introduction of the religion of Islam to Gilgit, married a daughter of Trakhan of Gilgit, who bore him twin sons named Moghlot and Girkis. From the former the present ruling family of Nager is descended. The twins are said to have shown hostility to one another from birth. Their father seeing this and unable to settle the question of succession, divided his state between them, giving to Girkis the north, and to Moghlot the south, bank of the river.

Thum

The traditional name for the ruler in Hunza was Thum which is also a respectful appellation used by people of both Hunza and Nager who belong to the caste of Boorish. The Shin use the term Yeshkun for the Boorish. Both Thums are still addressed as Soori, as a title of respect. This appears to be the same [in meaning] as Sri, an appellation of Lakshmi, the Hindoo goddess of wealth, commonly prefixed to the names of Hindoo princes in India, to denote their honour and prosperity. The Thum's wives are styled ghenish which is almost identical with the original Sanscrit word for mother, and their sons are called gushpoor.

The Hunza is situated at an elevation of 2,438 metres (7,999 feet). For many centuries, Hunza has provided the quickest access to Swat and Gandhara for a person travelling on foot. The route was impassable to baggage animals; only human porters could get through, and then only with permission from the locals.

Hunza was easily defended as the paths were often less than half a metre (about 18") wide. The high mountain paths often crossed bare cliff faces on logs wedged into cracks in the cliff, with stones balanced on top. They were also constantly exposed to regular damage from weather and falling rocks. These were the much feared "hanging passageways" of the early Chinese histories that terrified all, including several famous Chinese Buddhist monks such as Xuanzang.

The temperature in May is maximum 27 °C (81 °F) and minimum 14 °C (57 °F) and October maximum is 10 °C (50 °F) and 0 °C (32 °F). Hunza's tourist season is from May to October, because in winter the Karakoram Highway is often blocked by the snow.

Transport

Today, the famous Karakoram Highway crosses Hunza, connecting Pakistan to China via the Khunjerab Pass. Travelling up the valley from the south, Hunza is the land to the left, and the former state of Nagar to the right of the Hunza River. Regular bus and van services operate between Gilgit and Central Hunza (Ganish Village, Aliabad and Karimabad) and also between Gilgit and Sost Gojal. PTDC Office at Gilgit, Sost and Islamabad arranges tours and transport for visitors.

As much as the valley is famous for its beauty, the people of Hunza are noted for their friendliness and hospitality. The local languages spoken are Burushaski, Wakhi and Shina, many people understand Urdu. The literacy rate of the Hunza valley is believed to be more than 90%. Virtually every child of the new generation studies up to at least high school level. Many pursue higher studies from prestigious colleges and Universities of Pakistan and abroad.

Most of the people of Hunza are Ismaili Shia Muslims, followers of His Highness Prince Karim Aga Khan IV, while in Ganish Village more than 90% are Shia Muslims. The Hunza region is home to people of three ethnicities:

The Lower Hunza area - (from khizerabad to Nasirabad is mainly inhabited by the Shinaki people who are Shina speakers;
The Central Hunza area - (from Murtazaabad to Ahmed Abad) is mainly inhabited by Burushaski speakers.
The Upper Hunza area, known as Gojal - (from Shiskat to Khunjerab is mainly populated by Wakhi speakers;

The majority of the people are Ismaili Shia Muslims who are followers of the Aga Khan. The present Aga Khan IV has provided a lot of funding for the area to help with agriculture and the local economy through the Aga Khan Development Network.

list of mountains

2009-07-06T23:37:00.000-07:00

list of mountains

8000-9000 Meters Name Hieght Mountain Range

K2 8611 Karakoram, Baltoro Glacier
Nanga Parbat 8126 Himalaya
Gasherbrum I 8068 Karakoram, Baltoro Glacier
Broad Peak 8047 Karakoram, Baltoro Glacier
Gasherbrum II 8035 Karakoram, Baltoro Glacier

7000-8000 Meters Name Hieght Mountain Range

Gasherbrum III 7952 Karakoram, Baltoro Glacier
Gasherbrum IV 7925 Karakoram, Baltoro Glacier
Disteghil Sar 7885 Karakoram, Shimshal, Muztagh
Kunyang Chhish 7852 Karakoram, Hispar-Muztagh
Masherbrum NE (K1) 7821 Karakoram, Baltoro Glacier
Batura I 7795 Karakoram, Batura Muztagh
Rakaposhi 7788 Karakoram, Rakaposhi-Haramosh Muztagh
Batura II 7762 Karakoram,Batura Wall
Kanjut Sar 7760 Karakoram, Hispar Muztagh
Batura I 7755 Karakoram, Batura Wall
Saltoro Kangri 7742 Karakoram, Saltoro Valley
Batura III 7729 Karakoram, Batura Wall
Trivor 7728 Karakoram, Hispar Muztagh
Tirich Mir 7706 Hindukush
Chogolisa I 7665 Karakoram, Baltoro Glacier
Shishpar Sar 7611 Karakoram, Batura Muztagh
Silberzacken 7597 Himalaya, Nanga Parbat Region
Batura IV 7594 Karakoram, Batura Wall
Unknown 7581 Karakoram, Batura Wall
Yukshin Garden 7530 Karakoram, Hispar Muztagh
Passu Peak West 7500 Karakoram,Passu Massive
Pumari Chhish W 7492 Karakoram, Hispar Muztagh
Noshaq 7492 Hundu Kush
Passu Sar 7476 Karakoram, Batura Muztagh
Malubiting W 7458 Karakoram, Rakaposhi-Haramosh Muztagh
Muchu Chhish (BaturaV) 7453 Karakoram, Batura Muztagh
Sia Kangri 7422 Karakoram, Baltoro Glacier
Haramosh 7409 Karakoram, Rakaposhi-Haramosh Muztagh
Istoro-o-nal 7403 Hindu Kush
Unknown 7400 Karakoram, Batura Wall
Ultar I Peak 7388 Karakoram, Batura Muztagh
Sherpi Kangri 7380 Karakoram, Saltoro Valley
Saraghrar 7349 Hindu Kush
Momhil Sar 7343 Karakoram, Hispar Muztagh
Jutmo Sar 7330 Karakoram, Hispar Muztagh
Bojohagur Duanasir 7329 Karakoram, Batura Muztagh
Yazghill 7324 Karakoram, Shimshal & Boiber Valleys
Unknown 7300 Karakoram, Concordia & Baltoro Glacier
Passu Diar 7295 Karakoram, Batura Muztagh
Unknown 7295 Karakoram, Passu Massive, Hunza Valley
Malubiting C 7291 Karakoram, Rakaposhi-Haramosh Muztagh
Baintha Brak 7285 Karakoram, Biafo Glacier
Passu Peak 7284 Karakoram, Passu Massive
K6 7281 Karakoram, Hushe Valley
Baltoro Kangri 7280 Karakoram, Baltoro Glacier
Unknown 7280 Karakoram, Batura Wall
Unknown 7274 Karakoram, Concordia & Baltoro Glacier
Muztagh Tower 7273 Karakoram, Baltoro Glacier
Diran 7257 Karakoram, Rakaposhi-Haramosh Muztagh
Lupgar Sar C 7200 Karakoram, Hispar Muztagh
Karum Koh 7164 Karakoram, Shimshal & Boiber Valleys
Hachindar Chhish 7163 Karakoram, Batura Muztagh
Snow Dome 7160 Karakoram, Baltoro Glacier
Latok I 7151 Karakoram, Biafo Glacier
Latok II 7145 Karakoram, Biafo-Hispar
Kampir Dior 7143 Karakoram, Batura Muztagh
Unknown 7133 Karakoram, Concordia & Baltoro Glacier
Kunyang Chhish N 7108 Karakoram, Hispar Muztagh
Udren Zom 7108 Hindu Kush
Kunyang Chhish 7108 Karakoram, Biafo Hispar
Ghenta Peak 7090 Karakoram, Hunza Valley
Riakot Peak 7070 Himalaya, Nanga Parbat Region
Sangemarmar Sar 7050 Karakoram, Hunza Valley
Link Sar 7041 Karakoram, Hushe Valley
Spantik 7027 Karakoram, Rakaposhi-Haramosh Muztagh
Mulungutti Sar 7025 Karakoram, Hispar Muztagh
Akher Chhish 7020 Hindu Kush
Pamiri Sar 7016 Karakoram, Batura Muztagh
Rakaposhi East 7010 Karakoram, Rakaposhi & Bagrot Valley
Unknown 7004 Karakoram, Concordia & Baltoro Glacier

6000-7000 Meters Name Hieght Mountain Range

Laila Peak 6986 Karakoram, Bagrot-Haramosh Valleys
K7 6934 Karakoram, Hushe Valley
Beka Brakai Chhok 6882 Karakoram, Batura Wall
Vigne Peak 6874 Karakoram, Baltoro Glacier
Koyo Zom 6871 Pechus Glacier, Kishmanja
Dut Sar 6858 Karakoram, Shimshal & Boiber Valleys
Angel Sar 6858 Karakoram, K2 & Concordia
Latok III 6850 Karakoram, Bisfo-Hispar
Chongra Peak 6830 Himalaya, Nanga Parbat Region
Miar Peak 6824 Karakoram, Bagrot-Haramosh Valleys
Rhuparash 6785 Karakoram, Upper Nagar
Biarchedi 6781 Karakoram, Baltoro Glacier
Seiri Porkush 6771 Karakoram, Batura Glacier West
F Trango Tower 6763 Karakoram, Baltoro Glacier
Choricho 6756 Karakoram, Braldu River Valley
Biale Peak 6729 Karakoram, Muztagh Glacier
Trinity Peak 6700 Karakoram, Baltoro Glacier
Mani Peak 6685 Karakoram, Bagrot-Haramosh Valleys
Haramosh II 6666 Karakoram, Bagrot-Haramosh Valleys
Thui I 6660 Ponarillo Glacier, Kishmanja
Gul Lasht Zom 6657 Hindu Kush, Lutkho Valley
Piaju Peak 6610 Karakoram, Braldu River Valley
Makrong Chhish 6607 Karakoram, Bisfo-Hispar
Gonalo Peak 6606 Himalaya, Nanga Parbat Region
Phuparash Peak 6574 Karakoram, Bagrot-Haramosh Valleys
Buni Zom 6550 Hindu Kush, Shishi & Golen Valleys
Thui II 6523 Shetor Glacier, Thui Pass
Ghamubar I 6518 Ghamu Bar Glacier , Darkot
Noukarsich 6496 Karakoram, Lupghar Massive, Hunza
Honbrok 6459 Karakoram, Hushe Valley
Ghamubar II 6432 Ghamubar Glacier, Darkot
Uli Biaho 6417 Karakoram, Braldu River Valley
Koser Gunge 6401 Karakoram, Braldu River Valley
Namika Peak 6325 Karakoram, Hushe & Shyok Valleys
Urdukas I 6320 Karakoram, Baltoro Glacier
Bullah 6294 Karakoram, Braldu River Valley
Purian Sar 6293 Karakoram, Pakore Pass
Mango Gusor 6288 Karakoram, Braldu River Valley
Great Trango Tower 6286 Karakoram, Baltoro Glacier
Gama Sokha Lumbu 6282 Karakoram, Braldu River Valley
Urdukas II 6280 Karakoram, Baltoro Glacier
Hunza Peak 6270 Karakoram, Hunza Valley
Marbal Peak 6256 Karakoram, Concordia & Baltoro Glacier
Crystel Peak 6252 Karakoram, Concordia & Baltoro Glacier
Ghuchhar Sar 6249 Hindu Kush, Shishi & Golen Valleys
Garmush 6244 Garmush Glacier, Darkot
H Trango Tower 6239 Karakoram, Baltoro Glacier
Lobsang 6225 Karakoram, Baltoro Glacier
Blatts Yaz 6191 Ghamubar Glacier, Darkot
Thui Zom 6158 Ghamubar Glacier, Darkot
Bilchar Dubani 6134 Karakoram, Bagrot-Haramosh Valleys
Urdukas III 6130 Karakoram, Baltoro Glacier
Chikar Zom 6110 Chatebori Glacier, Darkot Pass
Uli Biaho Tower 6109 Karakoram, Braldu Ruver Valley
Tupopdan 6106 Karakoram, Shimshal & Boiber Valleys
Darmyani 6090 Karakoram, Lupghar Massive, Hunza
Mingli Sar 6050 Karakoram, Shimshal & Boiber Valleys
Balti Peak 6050 Karakoram, Hushe Valley
Mitre Peak 6025 Karakoram, Concordia
Bublimating 6000 Karakoram, Hunza Valley

5000-6000 Meters Name Hieght Mountain Range

Falaksair 5918 Ushu Valley Kohistan
Urdukas IV 5900 Karakoram, Baltoro Glacier
Shani Peak 5887 Karakoram, Naltar, Shani Glacier
Chari Khand 5886 Karakoram, Naltar Valley
Cathedral Peak 5828 Karakoram, Baltoro Glacier
Khaltar Peak (TwinPeak N) 5798 Karakoram, Naltar Valley
Bat Koshi 5791 Karakoram, Baltar Glacier, Hunza
Jurjurkhana Sar 5790 Karakoram, Passu & Gojal
Mankial 5726 Swat Valley
Lobsang Spire 5707 Karakoram, Baltoro Glacier
Twin Peaks South 5700 Karakoram, Pakora Pass
Borit Sar 5640 Karakoram, Batura Glacier, Gojal
Merhbani 5639 Karakoram, Chaprot Pass
Buldar Peak 5602 Himalaya, Nanga Parbat region
Liligo 5600 Karakoram, Baltoro Glacier
Shinlep Bluk 5517 Karakoram, Braldu River Valley
Khiatar Peak 5454 Karakoram, Naltar Valley
Kirilgoz 5450 Karakoram, Batura Glacier
Godeli Peak 5325 Karakoram, Bagrot-Haramosh Valleys
Malika Parbat 5290 Kaghan Valley
Jalipur Peak South 5215 Himalaya, Nanga Parbat region
Jalipur Peak South 5206 Himalaya, Nanga Parbat Region
Atabad 5180 Karakoram, Hunza Valley
Tusserpo La 5084 Karakoram, Hushe & Shyok Valleys
Khas Kamur 5048 Karakoram, Naltar
Snow Dome 5029 Karakoram, Chaprot Pass
Sasai Khand 5001 Karakoram, Naltar Valley

4000-5000 Meters Name Hieght Mountain Range

Gunshar 4950 Indus Kohistan
Bulan 4913 Himalaya, Nanga Parbat Region
Haraj 4730 Karakoram, Upper Nagar
Marpo Chungi 4695 Karakoram, Shigar Valley
Naltar Peak 4678 Karakoram, Naltar Valley
Thalle La 4572 Karakoram, Hushe & Shyok Valleys
Patundas 4570 Karakoram, Batura Glacier
Busper Peak 4564 Karakoram, Braldu River Valley
Hachindar 4544 Karakoram, Hunza Valley
Jabardar 4511 Himalaya, Fairy Meadows, Jalipur
Dianyor Peak 4358 Karakoram, Dianyor Village, Gilgit
Chhugam 4064 Himalaya, Nanga Parbat Region

3000-4000 Meters Name Hieght Mountain Range

Urghuch Dok 3510 Hindu Kush, Kalash Valleys
Takht-i-Sulaiman 3449 Toba Kakar Range
Mount Kand 3339 Toba Kakar Range
Koh-i-Maran 3277 Bolan Pass, Baluchistan
Lashgelash 3090 Karakoram, Indus Kohistan

slice of hunza

2009-07-06T22:07:00.000-07:00

A Slice of Hunza High

They've never heard of Hunza Pie in Hunza. Nowhere among the bazaars and tea shops of high Karimabad can I find the succulent wedge of cheese, spinach and wholemeal pastry that epitomised 1970's "hippie vego" cuisine - and that came, one imagined, with lashings of longevity and quasi-Himalayan wisdom. Instead of Hunza Pie, I settle for a mountain-style cappuccino made on a tiny machine that an enterprising young Hunzakot has shipped up from Karachi, far to the south.

The Karakoram mountains of northern Pakistan rise in a vertical backdrop above ancient Karimabad, the largest settlement in Hunza. Saw tooth wedges of air and earth interlock while, far below, the Hunza River, coloured like wet cement, churns its way south, returning the mountains to the Indian Ocean grain by grain.

A small but steady stream of tourists tackle the high road to Hunza. Getting there is more than half the adventure. The Karakoram Highway (jointly built by China and Pakistan between 1958 and 1978) is often affected by glaciers and washouts - after all, Karakoram is a Turkic term for "crumbling rock" - and fearless Pakistan Army bulldozer drivers are permanently deployed to keep the "KKH" safe.

En route to Hunza, our mini-bus has followed this snow-fed torrent beside the Karakoram Highway - which is modestly lauded on one Pakistani tourism poster as "the most brilliant achievement of mankind of the 20th century." We will test the proposition, firstly by climbing to Hunza, then over the 4733 metre Khunjerab Pass to Kashgar in China's Xinjiang Province. More than guiding us is Asghar Khan, an avuncular Hunzakut, whose capacity to arrange for small mountains to be moved (if necessary by bulldozer), palms to be greased and dinner to arrive on time makes the KKH, for us at least, a pushover.

The fabled Kingdom of Hunza, long an oasis on this route, was not always so easily reached, nor so tranquil. Pilgrims, Silk Route traders and imperial invaders once had to balance on narrow foot trails etched into the valley walls. "Noisy with kingdoms" was Marco Polo's take on this region in 1273. Even then, Baltit Fort towered over the town of Karimabad (formerly known as Baltistan); seven centuries later, this 62-room palace-cum-fortress, once occupied by the Mir (king) of Hunza, still stands, framed by pinnacles of stone and snow.

We eat dinner in the same palace room - now beautifully restored - in which Captain Francis Younghusband confronted the Mir in 1889, demanding that he cease raiding the caravans that passed on their way from Central Asia to British India. The Mir protested in words to the effect of, "But it's our only income - however, if your Queen Victoria is unhappy, I can cut her in on the booty". "Preposterous suggestion!" Younghusband no doubt thought as he withdrew; then, as "Great Game" warriors were wont to do, he sent in the British Army to better explain the imperial point of view.

Hunza was incorporated into Pakistan only in 1974. The last Queen is still alive, aged 78, although the current Mir, now a local politician, no longer carries the status of King. Indeed, as one of his political opponents disapprovingly sniffed, "He is the mere remnant of a Mir."

The 10,000 people of Karimabad inhabit one of the most benign vales of the Himalaya-Karakoram chain. Lush fields of maize are shaded by orchards weighted with fruit; tourism provides a modest cash flow; as followers of the liberal Ismaili sect of Islam, Hunza girls (unlike many others in Pakistan) receive equal education with boys, and women are not obliged to veil their faces.

In sunny Karimabad you can look out from a number of modestly comfortable hotels and see fields, corduroyed with crop rows, glowing in the afternoon light. Stepped terraces are threaded by ingenious irrigation channels that, over the centuries, have transformed this mountain desert terrain into a breadbasket. As we follow the level foot-trails that weave through the hamlets of the valley, Asghar Khan points out a 200-year old mulberry tree and, near another ancient fort, a gnarled, 500-year old walnut tree.

During the 1960s and 70s, the people of Hunza briefly became famous in the West for supposedly living to over 100 years of age, sustained by pure, 2,400 metre air and (it was said) an equally pure vegetarian diet - featuring, presumably, endless servings of Hunza Pie. Recent research reveals no particular longevity (in fact, there's evidence of inbreeding), nor of the fabled pie. It seems that the myth of spinach-powered centenarians was concocted, as it were, by the author of a Swiss vegetarian cookbook.

Nevertheless, the Hunza diet might still set a vegetarian's mouth watering, being rich in almonds, apples, cherries and apricots and fairly sparse on meat. Dinner (at least for tourists) tends to be a rice-and-chicken washed down by tea but no beer, for Pakistan is "dry". My pleasure then is great at finding, among the carpet boutiques of Karimabad's climbing, winding main street, a bookshop with a cappuccino machine. Each afternoon I return for my caffeine tweak, there to browse through Peter Hopkirk's various yarns about The Great Game, or to jot a postcard, all to the sublime background songs of Nuzrat Fateh Ali Khan.

If the "Immortality through Hunza Pie" sect fixated upon this valley, so too did the "Shangri-La-ists", proclaiming this to be the prototype happy kingdom of James Hilton's 1933 novel, "Far Horizons". That a number of very far pavilions, from Bhutan to Mustang to Zhongdian, China, all claim the mythic mantle of "the real Shangri-La" makes little difference to any of their boosters.

"Where else could you simply drive in - rather than having to trek for a fortnight - and find yourself surrounded by 7000 metre snow peaks?" marvels one of my friends. On our approach to Hunza, we have seen the giant peaks of Nanga Parbat (8125 metres) and Rakaposhi (7790 metres) glowing in crystal serration against the sky. Waking at dawn for a jeep excursion to a spot called Eagle's Nest, at 3200 metres, we scan a ring of snow-capped mountains - Ultar, Rakaposhi, Lady Finger and Golden Peak - sliding their massive shadows down the opposite wall of the Hunza Valley, then across its fertile floor.

The Karakoram range has been described as "where heaven and hell meet." Hunza can seem like a place where the mountains have been karate-chopped by the Almighty and the resultant rift then embroidered by humans, with willow-clad slopes and emerald terraces. Certainly, "a most brilliant achievement" for all parties.

long living women

2009-07-06T22:03:00.001-07:00

Hunza Valley is one of the three subdivisions of Gilgit and makes a bridged link to China through the Khunjerab Pass. Baltit (Karimabad) is the traditional capital of the valley. Its overall population stands at 45,000 individuals. Female education is more than 95%. The valley is surrounded by the lofty peaks of the Karakorum range, of which majestic Rakaposhi (7788m) stands on the southwest side, Golden Peak and Diran Peaks (7327m) on east side, and Ultar Peaks overhead. Hunza has been an independent state ruled by the Mir of Hunza for more than 850 years. The ancient forts of Altit ( 700 years old) and Baltit (Karimabad, 750 years old) are monuments of its past history. Karimabad Fort has recently been extensively renovated to restore it to its original condition and is now open for tourists. It will provide you with the most interesting history of the area and also present a commanding view of the whole valley.

peaks popular peaks

2009-07-06T21:57:00.000-07:00

GOLDEN PEAK

Heights 7027m
Duration 30 days
Hotels 6 nights (Islamabad, Chilas, Skardu)
Season July-August
Average walking time 4-5 hours per day
Maximum group size 8-10 members
Equipments Tents, ice screw, snow bar, rope, ice axe, Harness
Subject Objective risks High altitude sickness, crevasses, unfavorable weather

Spantik Peak also Known as the Yengutz Peak situated between Nagar Valley near Hunza and Arandu Valley in Baltistan forming the

boundry Hunza-Nagar and Baltistan, is known by various names all depicting different aspects of its splendor and opulence. The northwestern face on the Nagar side is called “Ghenish Chhish”, which in Brushaski (local language) means Golden Mountain. Viewed from Hunza-Karimabad, the sun setting on Golden Pillar is a truly remarkable sight Local people also call it Queen Mountain. From the Baltistan side at the head of CHOGOLUNGME GLACIER the mountain is less intimidating and offers a NORMAL ROUTE to the summit . The summit on clear days presents magnificent views of neighboring Rakaposhi, Diran, Malubiting, Ultars, Battura Group, Haramosh, the entire Shimshal Mountains, and K2 far beyond and many more.

H u n z a The Valley of Youth

2009-07-06T21:50:00.000-07:00

H u n z a - The Valley of Youth

Hunza is really a magical place that moves the soul and the Shangri-la of James Hilton's novel The Lost Horizon. In times of turmoil around the world I found beauty and tranquility in Hunza. The scenery is stunning in Karimabad Hunza and beyond towards Khunjrab Top.

hunza in north

2009-07-06T21:42:00.000-07:00

Hunza In North

The Northern Areas of Pakistan lying under the great mountain ranges

of Himalaya –Karakorum –Hindu Kush –Hindu Raj and Pamir, surrounded by high peaks of 6500 m to 8600 meters.
Administratively divided with five districts, which runs by DC,s and the concern authority. Controlled from Gilgit by Chief Secretary. The chief secretary controlled by Federal Government Islamabad.
Gilgit the capital of Northern Areas has been inhabited for thousands of years, the various invaders, reached in the South, reached here. The animism of early inhabitants was over laid by fair worship, brought from in Iran. Which was modified by the Indo Aryans in 1700 BC.
From the 1st century Gilgit was like Kashgar, the trade center from all places as its now. From 4th century to 11th century AD, It was under Buddhism influence of Sogdiana dynasty, Kushans Hindu Shahis and later Islam introduce in this area. Gilgit situated at an important point, Central Asia-China.
Northern Area is connected with air and road with other cities of Pakistan including Islamabad the Capital. There are daily flights to Skardu and Gilgit, which is subject to weather. It’s linked with Karakorum highway through the Indus valley. 620 Kilometers to Gilgit and 832 Kilometers to Skardu. It’s a two days drive to reach Gilgit & Skardu.
Northern Areas is the fairy land, which covers thousands of Square Kilometers if high snow capped mountain, surrounded by Lashed green valleys rivers, Glaciers- High meadows –high passes –Pine Dev Dar Forest, Juniper trees, Cultivated fields, Fruit orchards, which offer Spectacular panoramic view of natural disaster. Northern Area is a tourist paradise for Trekkers, Climbers –Skiers –Jeep Safaris-Rock Climbing –White Water Rafting-Cultural Tours, Silk Route Travelers –Mountain Bike Tours and many many.

the ismaili brusho

2009-07-06T21:38:00.000-07:00

“The Ismaili Burusho”

The Hunza valley lies in the midst of the 7.500m high, snow covered mountains of the Karakoram Range, just North of Gilgit, where the Karakoram Highway follows the Hunza River North to China. Local tradition says, that the Hunzakot in the valley: are descendants of ‘ five lost soldiers ‘of the army of Alexander the Great. In reality this is probably just a fable arising out of the distinctive physical features and proud characteristics of the Hunza people. Today many Hunzakot’s can be found further down the Hunza valley, in the villages around Gilgit or have relocated to Karachi, where the Aga Khan’s educational, cultural and medical institutions provide income and employment to many.

People profile.

The Kingdom of Hunza, in actual fact is the smaller of the two Kingdoms in the Hunza Valley, occupying the western side of the Hunza River. Despite its smaller population, less useful land and water resources, it is the dominant people group in the valley. Their fellow Burushaski speaking neighbors, near kinsmen and rivals, the Nagar people, definitely being relegated to status of poor cousins.

Previous to 1947, for the preceding 960 years, these people were ruled by one family, their leader was known as the’ Mir’. The Mirs protected the valley from their range of impressive wood and stone castles/palaces, This linked to the difficult access to the valley, kept the Hunzakot’s isolated and independent from outside influence for generations,

Historically the Hunza valley was considered by the Chinese rulers to be part of their sphere of influence. It was not until the latter part of the 19th century and the coming of British colonial rule, that Hunza opened its borders to the outside world. Following the conquest of Nagar by the British, good diplomacy from Hunza allowed the state to remain an independent kingdom as part of British India until 1947. Where upon independence of the subcontinent it was absorbed into Pakistan. It was not until 1972 however that the Mir’s finally relinquished full political control over the area.

Due to the harsh climate, rough terrain and difficult access to the outer world, the Hunza people have become hardy survivors and as such are’ hard workers and ingenious farmers. In reality Hunza produces a myriad of fruits, vegetables (especially potatoes) and some wheat crops. Hunza is a marvel of agriculture with its terraced fields, and intricate irrigation system, totally dependent on glacier melt water due to low precipitation.

Despite great advances and developments in agriculture, tourism, education and health, life continues to be hard. During the long cold winter dried apricots, mulberries and vegetables, almonds, walnuts, apricot stones and a kind of whole meal bread are the staple diet helping them to survive the difficult physical conditions of their mountain Kingdom.

It is not just their hardy temperament and skilled farming techniques that make the Hunzakot different to their many neighbors. They differ in appearance especially by the roundness of their faces the color of their skin, the more commonly seen blond or fair hair, often with blue or green eyes and the radiant smiles. Hunza Society is also freer with women seen openly carrying baskets on their backs in the terraced fields wearing the typical high colored Hunza hats.

The mother tongue of the Hunzakot people is Burushaski, and is unique for the Northern Areas being a non Indo-European language, of the Dene Caucasian group of languages. Urdu however, is widely spoken with some Shina or Wakhi. The Burushaski language is also spoken in parts of the Gilgit (Ghizer) Valley in the Punial district with only slight dialect differences. There is also a pocket of Burushaski speaking people in the Yasin valley who have ethnic, religious and linguistics links with the Hunzakot’s.

These are included with the Khowar speaking peoples of the upper Gilgit valley in this presentation. Though there may be a, need for a separate outreach program in conjunction with efforts to reach either the Hunzakot’s or Khowar peoples in the future.

Recently the English language has grown in importance with the advent of English medium schools, and the excellent Aga Khan sponsored education initiatives. Tourism, trade and development have had a considerable impact on the Hunza valley since the opening of the Karakoram Highway. This has radically affected lifestyles and the local culture Specially people of Altikuz for instance Farhan Akhtar Madiha etc, being compounded and encouraged by the humanistic influences of the Aga Khan run Institutions.

personalities of hunza

2009-07-03T23:08:00.000-07:00

Nazir Sabir is a Pakistani mountaineer. He was born in Ramanji a small hamlet in Chiporsun, upper Hunza known as Gojal. He is the only Pakistani to have climbed Mount Everest and four of the five 8000m peaks in Pakistan, including the world’s second highest peak K2 in 1981, Gasherbrum II and Broad Peak in 1982, Gahserbrum 1( Hidden Peak 8068m ) in 1992 and he became the first climber from Pakistan to have summitted Everest on May 17, 2000 with Mountain Madness Everest Expedition led by Christine Boskoff of the USA.

Nazir started off his climbing career with a Japanese expedition to the 7284m Passu peak in Hunza in 1974. In 1975 he was part of a German Expedition as a trainee that attempted Nanga Parbat (8125m) and only went to 6700m up the S W Ridge. On July 17 1976 he made the first ascent of 6660m virgin Paiyu followed by Col. Manzoor Hussain and Major Bashir with the first Alpine Club Expedition.

In 1977 Nazir Sabir joined the largest Japan/Pakistan joint expedition to K2, attempting the traditional South East Abruzzi ridge. It was a huge expedition, using bottled Oxygen; this team had an army of 1500 porters and 52 members. However Nazir Sabir’s first assault team including four Japanese had to turn back due to snow storms from 8280m. Another attempt with the same team had to be abandoned again from 8150m when they had to come down searching for two missing colleagues who were found alive below C4. However they put six members of the team on the summit making the second ascent of K2.

Till then only two mountaineers of the 1954 successful Italian expedition had stepped on the K2 Summit. Nazir Sabir got the chance to climb K2 in 1981 by accompanying a Japanese Waseda University Expedition to K2 attempting the West and South West ridge rather than the usual Abruzzi ridge. The Duke of Abruzzi had, in 1909, surveyed K2 from all its sides. He felt that K2 could only be assailed from the South West ridge, which was to be named Abruzzi Ridge. The route to the Wes/North West Ridges of K2 is via Savoia Glacier. This is north of Godwin Austen Glacier and the traditional K2 Base Camp. It involves a difficult grade, ice and rock climb at higher elevations with winds at 100+ km/h. In 1978 the famous British climber Chris Bonnington made his first attempt on this route. Nick Estcourt, part of this team, was swept to his death by a slab avalanche above their Camp I.

Nazir, followed by Eiho Otani, reached the K2 summit on 7 August 1981. Nazir created history by successfully climbing K2's W/South West Ridge for the first time. He was the second Pakistani to stand on K2 summit and first via this route. A documentary film of the climb, "50 Day Struggle" shown all over Japan, made Nazir Sabir a house hold name in Japan. In due course Nazir had also picked up Japanese language and could speak it fluently.

Nazir Sabir in 1982, along with Sher Khan climbed with the famous Italian mountaineer Reinhold Messner and scaled Broad Peak (8047 m) and Gasherbrum II (8035 m) in one attempt. Both Gasherbrum II and Broad Peak were done in Alpine style in a period of just one week the fastest ascent of two 8000m peaks at that time!

He made three attempts on Nanga Parbat. His first was in October 1981, two months after his great success on K2 when he joined his friends from the Sangaku Doshikai Club Tokyo lead by M. Omiya. They followed the First serious attempt route of A F Mummery. Nanga Parbat claimed its first of many victims when Mummery and two Gorkha Sherpas were killed by an avalanche. Nazir and the Japanese abandoned due to the heavy crevasses on lower part of the Diamir Glacier and avalanches after heavy snow fall that autumn.

Then he challenged the SS West side also known as Schell Route of Nanga on the Rupal flank in 1983 with Tohokeiryo Kai Club friends. As he was leading a pitch up a chest deep snow face around 7200m he fell 400 meters on top an avalanche along with seven Japanese colleagues nearly to the bottom of the face but barely survived as he stopped only 20m from the edge. One of the team members Shimura fell some 2000m down the face never to be found again. Nazir ended up with bruises all over the body and a sprained ankle while the team doctor Dr. Arai and Wakutsu had one broken arm each and the expedition leader Osamu Kunii had four ribs broken. Kunii also had a deep cut across his belly by the friction of the rope showing his intestines. The mountain took its toll and the expedition had to be abandoned.

Nazir lured his old time friend and one of the most accomplished Himalayan Climbers Doug Scott and his team to go on the same route of Nanga Parbat. Doug Scott , his son Michael, Aliester and Nazir free climbed and dashed to 7150m in a two day push from Base Camp at 3600. Doug got ill at the second bivouac around the same spot where they were swept with an avalanche in 1983 and had to abandon the Killer Mountain yet again.

Death of Brother

In July 1980, Nazir Sabir lost his elder brother, who servesd in the Pakistan Army SSG(Marines). He along with Shaukat Nazir Hamdani and Rasheed were buried under an ice avalanche while attempting Diran 7527m on this Army SSG Expedition while waiting out a bad weather spell in camp-3 thus ending the hopes of Nazir and his brother to climb Broad Peak the following year and many mountains together. The Expedition was lead by the famous Brig TM.

Nazir Sabir’s attempt on the Everest leading the first Pakistan Expedition of ten plus a film team in 1997 resulted in failure due to very strong winds blowing across the summit ridge from 8630m on his first attempt and again from above 8500m on his two other summit bids he had to return with his five colleagues due to strong blizzards.

But on 17 May 2000, climbing in the company of his Nepalese Sherpa team and a Canadian on a full moon night to avoid high winds he reached Everest summit at 0730 hours becoming the first from Pakistan to get to the roof of the world. He first paid tribute to his many dead friends on the higher ground of Everest including Scott Fischer, Rob Hall, Ube Akira, Kobayashi, Yasuo Kato, Futagami and many more who gave their lives in love of these eternal higher heavens.

While waiting for Ben Webster of Canada and two other Sherpas he went on enjoying the most splendid moments of his life with his two Sherpa colleagues taking video shots of Ben and others climbing the last part of the summit ridge and the magical surroundings against the backdrop of the much blessed early morning sun approaching from behind 8462m Makalu, 5th highest mountain in the world.

He spoke to the base camp and sent the message of humbleness and happiness back home and to his closest friends who were watching his progress and counting steps up the last part of the mountain as he climbed through the clear night winds. He received hundreds of messages from across the country and the globe including that of Benazir Bhutto who was second to send in her congratulations from London where she lived at the time.

As a reward for years of services rendered to the people of Hunza, Nazir was elected as their representative to the Northern Area Legislative Council in the October 1994 elections and appointed Advisor on Education and Tourism to the government. Campaigning for the Hunza seat in the 1994 elections for the Northern Area Assembly, for a five year term, he defeated his opponent from the traditional Mir of Hunza family with a wide margin. He was appointed as Advisor on Education and Tourism for the Northern Area. He has remained a member of the Northern Areas Legislative Council and Education Advisor of the administration of the Northern Areas of Pakistan.

For his outstanding achievements he earned the prestigious President’s Award for Pride-of-Performance [1] in 1982 and was honored with The Sitara-i-Imtiaz (Star of Excellence) in 2001 for his outstanding performance in mountaineering sports. His latest honour is the Presidentship of the Alpine Club of Pakistan, to which he was elected unanimously on October 10, 2004 and again for another term in 2007. Presently he heads the Alpine Club of Pakistan, which trains and prepares men and women from all around Pakistan to become climbers. Nazir Sabir is currently working as an environmentalist on the conservation of wildlife in his native Hunza Valley and across Nothern Pakistan including the Baltoro Glacier region. He is involved on the conservation 0f the 5000 years old world heritage of Juniper forests in Ziarat Balochistan in collaboration with the Chiltan Adventure. He has also been raising voice on environmental matters in the Siachen Glacier region and across the Karaakoram belt, opposing the Polo Tournaments at Shandur Pass and the Babusar Pass that is polluting the serene environment and is against the animal rights.

Nazir Sabir is operating an an adventure travel oufit which he is running under the name of "Nazir Sabir Expeditions" and is known for reliable adventure business. He has been actively involved in promoting Pakistan as a unique tourism destination " The Best Kept Secret " in South Asia and has traveled extensively around the world lecturing on the country’s cultural, historical and adventure potential.

On the invitation of UIAA/IUCN (www.uiaa.ch/iucn/) he participated in the Indo Pakistan and UK Peace Climb in the Swiss Alps in 2002, organized to focus attention on environmental degradation in the Siachen Glacier area due to the ongoing conflict between India and Pakistan.

He also attended the Int’l Congress on “Future of Mountain Sports” (www.mountainfuture.at) at Innsbruck (Austria) in 2002, centennial celebrations of American Alpine Club Salt Lake City in 2002, Sagarmatha Golden Jubilee celebrations in Kathmandu Nepal in 2003.

For over two decades he has been representing Pakistan and delivered lectures on the tourism potential of Pakistan at international forums and Alpine Clubs in Japan,USA, Australia, UK, Germany, Austria, Canada, Nepal, South Korea, Hong Kong, Tajikistan, Poland, Slovakia, Malaysia France and Italy. He was invited to be a jury member at the Banff Mountain Film Festival Canada in 1996, Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival (VIMFF) in 2002, Bratislava Mountain Film Festival in 2002, and was invited as chief guest at the Kathmandu International Mountain Film Festival in 2006. He also participated at the Trento Mountain Film Festival in 2003.

As a photojournalist and naturalist Nazir Sabir has in his archives a collection of over 5000 slides of mountains and the culture surrounding them and he goes around doing promotional slide talks at universities and different platforms in Pakistan and around the globe.

hunza bread

2009-07-03T23:05:00.001-07:00

Hunza is a fairy tale land and a lot of myth and reality has been associated to it. One thing is true of all that Hunza people are probably the most friendly people in the region. In the past it was quite common to see people crossing 100 and more years this indeed is true and can still be seen to some extent however the modern civilization has changed a lot in this valley of the longativity.

One secret of longativity of the hunza people is their low fat diet and diet full of fibre and organic vegetarian food. Hunza bread (Phitti as it is called locally) has inherited a huge fame and here is some thing about it.

Hunza Bread: the diet plan or diet scam

by the Phantom

The Bread diet...

Have you received that spam email yet explaining how you can lose weight by eating this special Hunza bread? The diet pitch goes this way: You just eat this bread and the weight falls off -- you just eat bread, that's it. Supposedly, one piece will fill you up for hours and hours on end, so you won't even want more than one piece -- but if you do, that's okay. Go ahead, gorge yourself on this stuff. You'll still lose weight. Yeah, right.

Uh-huh. And the spam goes on to say that you have to bake the bread yourself and you can buy the recipe for only $7.95 from the spammer. Oh, sure, and here's my credit card information...

If you search the internet, you can find dozens of "free" Hunza Bread recipes and lots of info on the whole deal to boot. Here's what I found out. There are two Hunza Bread (umm) schools. One features Millet flour, which is a very ancient flour, first used in Asia. and the bread made from this flour tends to be dry and not very tasty. The Hunza bread recipe just below is typical of the Himalayan bread school and is most likely the diet bread recipe.

A typical Hunza Millet Bread Recipe (Himalayan):

1 cup Millet flour
1 cup grated carrots
1 tablespoon honey
1 tablespoon vegetable salt/iodized salt
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 eggs

Combine flour, carrots, oil, honey, and salt. Mix well, then stir 3/4 cup of boiling water into the mixture. Beat the egg yolks well adding 2 tbs. of cold water, continue to beat and then add to the mixture. Fold in stiffly beaten eggs and bake in a hot oiled pan at 350 degrees for about 40 minutes.

I didn't actually cook up this bread recipe, (it doesn't sound too good to me) but from the ingredient list, I couldn't help but notice there is no yeast or baking powder involved, so the bread is going to be rather flat. So I would bake it in a 9x12 baking pan.

After it has cooled, it hopefully can be cut into pieces, say approximately 2"x2" pieces, so there would be about 30 pieces total. According to my rough calculations, each piece would contain about 50 calories. That doesn't sound like much nourishment to me!

(Calories: 1 cup Millet flour=800; carrots=100; honey=60; oil=240; eggs=200)

Here's some info on the subject:

Many of the Hunza bread recipes don't use Millet flour. They are most likely from the Hungarian Bread school. According to one site, the word "Hunza" is Hungarian for "golden raisin". Their bread recipes are more like typical Western yeast or soda breads and they feature many kinds of flour, none that I found used Millet flour. They usually contain raisins, nuts and spices as well, so they are more like a dessert bread than a diet staple.

Here's a Hunza Bread typical recipe (Hungarian style):

1 (.25 ounce) package active dry yeast
2 cups bread flour
1 cup whole wheat flour
1/4 cup wheat germ
1/4 cup packed brown sugar
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons butter
3/4 cup golden raisins
1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1-1/2 cups warm water (110 degrees F/45 degrees C)

Follow the directions on your bread making machine. After the first rise, remove the dough from the machine pan. Shape into two loaves and place into lightly greased 7x3 loaf pans. Allow to rise until doubled in volume but not more than one inch above the top of the pan. Bake at 350 degrees for 40 minutes.

ulter glacier

2009-07-03T22:55:00.000-07:00

The Ultar Glacier of Hunza, Pakistan has received interest in this century by both geologists and medical professionals as to the unique association towards unusual health and longevity of the people who consume the glacier stream water. Research has revealed that drinking the glacially pulverized rock flour of the Hunza river, eating a favorable diet, and community participation have been critical factors in achieving renowned longevity, a low rate of heart disease, and exceptionally good to excellent health in this community.

The pure mineral-laden glacial water flows down a naturally created pathway to feed the two oldest Hunza communities, Altit & Baltit. The Hunza communities filter and bottle this pure mineral-laden glacial water at source. HVP abides by strict international standard to ensure that each bottle of ULTARTM Pure Glacial Water meets or exceeds EEC EPA and US EPA published guidelines.

Hunza heaven on the earth

2009-07-03T22:52:00.001-07:00

Human’s 30,000 inhabitants have been ruled by the same family for 1960 years. They long believed themselves the equals of the great powers, years. Probably because of their impregnability. A legend states that the Hunzakuts, as the people of Hunza are known, are descended from five wandering soldiers from Alexander’s army. It is true that some of the people are fair- haired with blue or green eyes. In central Hunza the people speak Burushaski, Wakhi and aboriginal language.

Hunza retained its isolated independence until the British conquered it; on the fruits of caravan raids slave trading and attacking it’s neighbors. It did not become par of Pakistan until 1974, and even now the Mir of Hunza retains much of his traditional importance. The society is co-operative rather than competitive; there is remarkably little difference in the people’s weather, each family growing enough corn, apricots and walnuts for its own use. The economy used to be entirely self-sufficient, but this is rapidly changing as the Karakoram Highway opens up the valley.

Hunza was the likely model for the Shangri-La of James Hilton’s novel ‘Lost Horizon’ where he describes it as a country of peace and contentment where the people do not ago. The myth of the longevity of the Hunzakuts probably stems from the fact that it was selected by the National Geographic magazine as the kingdom where people loved longest, free from social stress and succored by their high intake of apricots and low intake of animal fat. Fruit was, and is, the staple diet. During the summer the people used to eat nothing else; in order to conserve fuel and precious cereals cooking in the summer months was forbidden. In winter the people ate flour made from apricot kernels and drank brandy distilled from mulberries, and wines from the grapes that used to grow everywhere, smothering the poplars and roofs.

You see in Hunza a large number of old people, most of them apparently in good health, but few, if any, live to be 120. Life is as hard in Hunza as it is elsewhere in the northern areas, particularly in the early spring when the supplies of stored food are running low.

The Burusho

The Burusho, also known as the Burushas, are known to inhabit three rugged mountainous areas of northern Pakistan known as the Hunza, the Nagar, and the Yasin Valleys. However, most of the Burusho live in the Hunza Valley. No one seems to know the exact origin of the Burusho but according to a legend, three soldiers from the army of Alexander the Great came and settled in the Hunza Valley around 300 BC. Another legend that says that the Burusho were driven from northwestern India into Pakistan by Indo-Aryan invaders. For hundreds of years the territory of Hunza was ruled by a prince. Then from 1892 until 1949 the British ruled this territory. In 1949, Pakistan gained control of Hunza when a truce made by the United Nations brought an end to the fighting between Pakistan and India. The Burusho are a proud people and they are very warm and friendly. Most of them are farmers but some are involved in tourism and trade.

Some of the Burushas serve in the military or work for the government. The family ties of the Burusho are very important. The husband is always the head of the household. The Burusho usually do not intermarry with other ethnic groups in the area, not even the Hunza or Nagar Burusho. Their houses are built of concrete or stone and are not very warm during the winter months. Kerosene is often used for heating because wood is scarce. The Burusho eat mainly fruits, grains, and vegetables. Some of their favorites are peaches , apricots, and nuts. They raise sheep, cattle, and goats for milk and wool. Their chief industries are production of woolen cloth and dried apricots.

The spoken language of the Burusho people is “Burushaski”. It is their primary language but is not yet a written language. Qualified workers are needed to develop a written language for the Burusho . The Hunza, Nagar, and Yasin Valleys all have a distinct dialect. Most similarities are found between the Hunza and Nagar dialects. Urdu is the national language of Pakistan and is also the secondary language of the Burusho.

Traditionally, the Burusho were animistic, believing that non-human objects have spirits, but Islam is now their primary religion. The Burusho differ from valley to valley as to which faction of Islam they follow. Most are Ismailis, while others may be Shia or Sunni Muslims.

HISTORICAL PLACES OF HUNZA Valley

Bultit Fort Karimabad Hunza

The setting of the Baltit Fort is arguably unrivalled in Pakistan. It is set at the head of the Hunza Valley in the Northern Areas amongst some of the highest mountains of the world, overlooking the valley settlements which it was built to protect. While it has lost its defensive role in modern times, the Fort remains a symbol of the region's history and culture. It is a synthesis of the architectural form, domestic lifestyle and belief systems of the region, providing insight into the values of the Hunza people.

The Fort has expanded with its increasing importance over the centuries and been adapted to changing needs and functions. Carbon dating tests indicate that some parts of the structure existed as early as the 13th century, with the last major modifications made at the beginning of the 20th century before conservation was undertaken in 1989. It is currently being re-used as an ethnographic museum.

Altit Fort Hunza

Altit Fort is situated in the village of Altit, about 3 km from Karimabad. It has been built on a sheer rock-cliff that falls 300 meters (1000 feet) into the Hunza River, and is much older than the Baltit Fort.
View of Altit fort, with the central town to the right and below the fort. The extreme gullies, sharp drop-off, and location high above the river made this settlement highly defensible and an older settlement than many in the central valley.

Ganesh Valley Hunza

Six kilometers (4 miles) beyond Aliabad, the KKH makes a sweeping S-bend down past Ganish village to the bridge across the Hunza River. Ganesh, on fertile flat and above the river, is guarded by an old watchtower and fort. The old craved mosque is also worth a visit. In the pool in front of the tower all the local children learn to swim. Until this century boys had to swim across the Hunza River to prove that they could escape or attack across the river when necessary. Until the British came in 1891, the men of Hunza used to keep a sword, gun, shield and a loaf of bread (which was replaced every eight days) beside their doors; when the drums beat the alarm from Altit fort, heralding the approach of raiders, each man would grab these things and run for the fort. (Presumably his family went too.)

Like Gilgit Hunza was an important staging post on the Silk Route and was heavily travelled for thousands of years by traders going back and forth between China, India and the west over the Kilik, Mintaka, Parpik and Khunjerab passes.

The most convincing proof of this lies in the inscriptions on the Ganesh rock, a sort of Silk Route guest book. The rocks are immediately beside the KKH, between the road and the river, a few hundreds metres past the bridge across the Hunza River.

The inscriptions are in Khraoshthi, Brahmi, Gupta, Sogdian and Tibetan. Among them is a portrait of the first-century Kushan King of Gandhara, Gondophares. Another inscription reads ‘Chandra sri Vikramaditya conquers’; the date of the inscription corresponds to AD 419. Chandra sri Vikramaditya was Chandra Gupta II, the greatest of the Gupta emperors, who ruled our most of India in the already fifth century AD.

Most of the drawings are of hunting scenes with horses and riders shooting at ibex, ibex surrounded by horsemen, and men dancing around ibex. The ibex was extremely important to the people of Hunza, Afghanistan, northern Pakistan, and northern India, as it was believed to be the pet animal of the mountain fairies and symbolized fertility and prosperity. In the more remote parts of Hunza the people still perform ritual ibex dances: a holy man dons an ibex headdress and drinks ibex blood (or nowadays the blood of ordinary goat), then falls into a trance and proceeds to tell fortunes and answer questions about the future.

Gulmit Valley Upper Hunza

Gulmit (2,500 metres or 8,200 feet above the sea level), eight kilometers (five miles) past the bridge, is a fertile plateau with irrigated fields on either side of the road. Halfway between Gilgit and the Khunjerab Pass, it is a good place to spend a night or two.

The small museum belonging to the ex-ruler, Raja Bhadur Khan, is full of interesting ethnic artefacts--wooden bowls, spoons, and farm implements, woolen coats and embroidered hats and shawls. The Raja shows you round with charm and enthusiasm.

There are many walks along irrigation channels in the area, and the people are very friendly. One recommended walk in across Ghulkin Glacier to Boreet Lake, then across Passu Glacier and down to Passu village. For a longer walk continue from Passu Glacier across the Husseini Ridge to Yunzbin, at the bottom of Batura Glacier.

Passu Glacier Upper Hunza

Passu, 14 kilometres (nine miles) beyond Gulmit, is a village of farmers and mountains guides. This is the setting-off point for climbing expeditions up the Shimshal Valley and Batura Glacier.

For non-trekkers there are two easy walks from Passu. It takes about 20 minutes to scramble up through the rocks to the Passu Glacier, or an hour to follow the irrigation channel up to the Batura Glacier. Or you can wander through the small village of Passu, watch the villagers at work in the fields, and see yaks and dzos (yaks-cow hybrids).

Shimshal Valley Upper Hunza

The road to Shimshal leaves the KKH six kilometres (four miles) past Passu. Shimshal is an isolated, unspoiled valley, three to four days’ walk away through a narrow barren gorge. You need a guide to lead you in; once there you can take several different treks up to the surrounding glacier. The villagers of Shimshal currently building an access road from KKH.

ganish valleey

The KKH passes through four more villages before reaching the immigration custom post at Sost, 34 kilometres (21miles) from Passu.

Karakoram Highway

The souls that paved the way for the modern tarmac road named the Karakoram Highway still seem to flicker amongst the sharp moving shadows of the unstable rocks and the almost countless but crumbly lucent glaciers that constantly threaten it's existence. There has always been a long pass into, and out of China over what is sometimes called the 'roof of the world' but in ancient times it was a very perilous pathway.

Extant writings, etched in a fourth century A.D. Chinese travelers diary, record ' The trail was very precipitous, and vertigo accompanied us as we edged along it...' The path was certainly narrow, and often clung to the sheer faces of the many deep resonant gorges that still confine their turgid, animated rivers. Even today, one can still see vestiges of an old crumbling trail high up above the present road. Although it is not the same trail that this particular merchant scrabbled breathlessly along, if one scrambles up to it and edges along it for a few meters, one can experience the same feelings of dizziness and danger that the diarist wrote about.

The new wide metal led road also winds along high palisade like cliffs in some places, and sometimes short sections of the tarmac rumble down into the river below or become buried under tones of rock and mud. However a modern traveler on this modern road will not experience the same fear or vertigo as the ancients.

The present highway is also popularly called the 'Silk Route' by many romantics because it approximates the trail of what was once one of the many silk, jade and spice carrying caravan trails that congregated somewhere near Xian, in China, and terminated in the vicinity of modern Syria on the Mediterranean sea coast. Like long lines of exploring ants, determined traders, merchants, and adventurers wore a path through narrow gorges, high grass sheathed valleys, across waterless deserts, around 6,000 meter - and higher mountains, and over raging rivers in pursuit of barter.

The passage of time hasn't altered any of these geophysical conditions, nor were the reasons for building this new road (apart from its obvious military significance) any different from the ancients reasons for undertaking such a hazardous journey. The new road was built to facilitate trade between China and Pakistan.

Tourist literature published by the Pakistan Tourist Authorities states that the road took twenty years to build. The pamphlets also mention the amount of earth moved, rocks blasted out of the way and more poignantly, the number of men and women, both Pakistani and Chinese who died in this great joint engineering feat.

Although the brochures write that it 'took twenty years to build', the road is in fact never finished! Because of the uniqueness of it's geophysical surroundings, constant natural activity frequently destroys sections of the highway. A small army of workers are on hand to reroute the road and join the new sections to the ends of the undamaged highway. The road in other words, is constantly being moved!

Put very simply, the road meanders through an area where highly active tectonic plate pressure is causing mountains to grow faster than the elements can wear them down! Swift flowing rivers and the measurable movements of glaciers crush, undercut and wash away the sides of these same mountains contributing to the constant rock falls and landslides that changes the face of the land almost daily! This uniquely accelerated geological activity can be felt, seen, and heard if one sits quietly on any high vantage point for a few hours. The road is in fact an observable reflection of man's incessant, but unequal struggle against nature's transcendental power.

Starting near Rawalpindi, the bitumen sealed motorway winds through gently rolling, sandy foothills for approximately one hundred and twenty kilometers before intersecting the Indus river. (Called the 'Sind' by the Urdu language speaking Pakistanis) it then twines along the Indus's arc north eastward to within forty kilometers of the town of Gilgit.

Between these two points, (about four hundred kilometers) the road sometimes takes on a 'roller-coaster' aspect as it dips into, and out of the Indus's wide river bed. The final dip is at this forty kilometers point when the road joins the Gilgit river and continues to within twelve kilometers of the town of that name, then swings North, crossing the Gilgit river to join the Hunza river. The town of Gilgit is twelve kilometers off the actual Karakoram highway and is reached by a fairly smoothly laid and slightly inclined tarred road.

Although the Karakoram Highway inclines upwards the whole way to the pass it's not until you get close to Gilgit that you begin to feel as if you are in mountains. Even so, the town is only at one thousand, five hundred meters (approx. five thousand feet) elevation and there is still a feeling of being in desert. The barren, dust laden and tan colored hills that surround the area give the impression of being made from sand, however, it only takes a ride of a couple of kilometers north from Gilgit for one to get the impression of being in 'real' mountains - very high, and very sheer mountains.

This is not to say that the actual road itself is steep - it's not, it's just that the demarcation between the almost sand dune like foothills, and the seemingly abrupt line of six to eight thousand meters high glacier and snow plaited mountains is almost overpoweringly awesome.

The road then accompanies the Hunza river through these mountains, climbing gently almost all the way to the 4,700 metre high Khunjerab Pass. Only during the last twenty-odd kilometers from the top of the pass will you find short stretches of consistently steep road gradients of six to fourteen degrees. At the top of the pass, two tall memorial stones show that this is the convenient dividing line between political Pakistan, and political China. Both countries respective customs and immigration posts are some kilometers away on their respective sides of the pass. Sust, the Pakistan customs post is ninety kilometres before the peak. Tax organ, the Chinese customs post and town of that name, is one hundred and thirty kilometers from the peak.

The pass also separates two differently named mountain ranges, the Karakoram range (on the Pakistani side), from the Pamir in China. Within these two massive ranges, there are other named but smaller clusters of rugged mountains, and a quick glance at a map can confuse one as there is no illustrated way that one can separate one range from the next.

On the Chinese side of the pass the road is given a different name by the Chinese, who call it, loosely translated, 'The Big Pakistan/China Friendship Road'. This continuation of the Karakoram is also smoothly finished and well graded. It scrolls up and down through generally wide valleys for approximately four hundred and fifty kilometers to the camel market town of Kashgar, which is in the mostly Taklamakan desert filled Chinese province of Xingjian.

As most travelers consider the Karakoram highway and the Big Pakistan-China Friendship Road to be one and the same, I have done so in this guide, with the exception that I refer to the Chinese road's by their route numbers. All Chinese roads have designated route numbers and periodic 'kilometer' markers tell you what numbered road, or track you are on at any given time, for example, the Chinese side of the Karakoram road is route number 314, and you can stay on this route half way across China.

The actual kilometer numbers on the stones don't seem to make any sense, and they certainly did not usually reflect accuracy as compared to both of our cyclometers, which always came out to within a hundred or so meters of each another at the end of every day. The numbers on the stones often showed a ten or fifteen kilometer difference to our daily total.

hunza people

2009-07-03T22:47:00.000-07:00

The Burusho or Hunzakuts (Hunza people), are an ethnic group indigenous to the Hunza Valley, Karakorum Mountains, Northern Pakistan.
The Burusho claim to be descendants of the soldiers who came to the region with Alexander the Great's army in the the 4th century BC.
Many Burushos do have indeed strikingly European appearance. They speak Burushaski which is traditionally regarded as a language isolate, i.e. not related to any known language. Some linguists however have postulated that the Burushaski language is a member of the hypothetical Dené-Caucasian family.

In the late 20th century they numbered approximately 60,000 people.[1] Apart from Brushaski, the Shina and Wakhi (also called Gojali) languages are also spoken in Hunza valley.

The Wakhi people live in the northern part of Hunza, also known as Gojal, bordering China and Afghanistan. They are said to have come from the Badakhshan and Wakhan territories of Central Asia. The Shina-speaking people live in the southern part of Hunza. They have come from Chilas, Gilgit, and other Shina-speaking areas of Pakistan

about hunza

2009-07-03T22:32:00.000-07:00

Hunza, a remote mountain kingdom, may have been the inspiration behind James Hilton's "Shangri-La." The area opened up in the 1970s following the completion of the Karakoram Highway (KKH); an engineering marvel tracing the old silk route from Pakistan into China.
The fair skinned and light-eyed Hunzakuts claim to be descendants of soldiers lost from Alexander's army as he invaded India. Their language, Burushaski, provides linguists an enigma as it is unrelated to any other language known to man.
The beauty of this mountain paradise is matchless; from the soft blossoms of the apricot trees to the dark snowcapped rock monuments of Rakaposhi (7788 m.) and recently climbed Ultar (7388 m.) jabbing a vivid blue backdrop high above.