Because Austrian wines are not alway easy to find here, (at least not in the quantity or variety that might suit some!), I’m listing the current wines here.

Your favorite wine shop either has or can get these wines easily, just ask!

Wachau region
2011 Sighardt Donabaum Grüner Veltliner Steinfeder “Thal Wachau”

Kamptal
2012 Thomas Leithner Grüner Veltliner “Loess”
2009 Thomas Leithner Zweigelt

Burgenland/Rust
2011 Peter Schandl Pinot Blanc
2010 Peter Schandl Pinot Noir
2011 Peter Schandl Blaufränkisch

You can read more about my visit last year here: Visit to Weingut Peter Schandl

Sweet wines of Burgenland
There is a nice article in the current issue (1/2013) called, “Prädikatsweine, Süße Versuchungen”, “Prädikat Wines, Sweet Temptations”. It features an interview with Gerhard Kracher, perhaps the most widely known winemaker of Austrian sweet wines and particularly renown for his “Collection” wines of Trockenbeerenauslese grapes. Several wines from his recently released 2010 line (there are more than 11 distinct wines from a wide variety of grapes), made it into Vinaria’s “Toplist”.

• 18.1 pts 2010 Scheurebe TBA No. 10 Zwischen den Seen
• 17.4 2010 Welschriesling TBA No. 7 Zwischen den Seen
• 17.2 *2010 Welschriesling TBA No. 11 Zwischen den Seen
• 16.5 *2010 Scheurebe TBA No. 3 Zwischen den Seen
• 16.5 *2010 Grand Cuvée TBA No. 6 Novelle Vague

Notably, we tasted and bought Number 3, 6, 11 when we were visited Weinlaubenhof Kracher in Illmitz. Do not hesitate to buy any Kracher wine, should you find it.

Also faring well in the ratings was Paul Schandl of Weingut Peter Schandl in Rust.

• 17.1 pts 2010 Cuvée BA
  “8.5% alc, 214 g/1 RS. Great body and volume. beautifully matured. Raisins, wild honey, baked apple, notes of mint, toasty, unready; considerable body for a Beerenauslese, dense dried apricot-orange fruit, deep skillfully balanced between strong sweetness and edgy acidity, appropriately structured, very long lasting.”
• 15.1 2010 Pinot BA
  “9% alc, 152 g/1 RS. Initially very closed, broad, seems almost oxidative. Blows off, then lush mango-grapefruit, chanterelle mushrooms; good substance, the residual sugar is buffered by
  racy acidity, exotic, a lot of lemon, at the moment contradictory.”

Schandl makes wonderful wines. It’s a shame that most wine reviews are of just released wines. Paul Schandl’s wine show beautifully with a little age.

Weingut Peter Schandl

Related posts:
Visit to Weingut Peter Schandl
The Great Sweet Wines of Austria
Visit to Weinlaubenhof Kracher

Here’s what you stand to win!

• A trip for TWO to the Wine Enthusiast’s Best Wine Travel Destination 2013: Danube, Austria!
• Three nights, four days stay at The Hotel Rathaus Wine & Design in Vienna, Austria: Located in Vienna, this unique hotel eptitomizes the vinophile philosophy. At every step you’ll be confronted by the theme of wine in the modern design hotel: the wine cheese on the breakfast buffet, the wine guglhupf with your coffee, the wine cosmetics in your room.
• Four custom winery visits in Vienna and Danube, including tastings and tours: Austrian wine regions produce some of the world’s tastiest and sought-after wines. Austria’s most famous grape, the peppery Grüner Veltliner, is the most prolific variety.
• Take home the ultimate Austrian cookbook, Neue Cuisine: The Elegant Taste of Vienna (2011), by Kurt Gutenbrunner: Known for his modern take on classic Austrian cuisine, chef Kurt Gutenbrunner shares more than 100 of his favorite contemporary and traditional recipes, including apple strudel, pea soup with pineapple mint and Bearnaise sauce.
• Round-trip flight for two from New York City or Washington D.C. on Austrian Airlines Economy

Learn more about the Austria as a wine destination here: Wine Enthusiast Wine Travel Austria

Enter here: Wine Enthusiast Visit Austria Contest.

Wachau Autumn Panorama

For a gigantic, 29 megapixel version, click the photo:
Gigantic Wachau Panorama

Super-duper iPad Retina version here:
Gigantic Wachau Panorama for iPad Retina

You’ll want to maximize your browser window.

I posted a previous version here, but this is a bit more up-to-date, and a bit sexier, don’t you think? By the way, the cloud is in the shape of a Zalto wine glass.

(This was created using the neat utility called Tagxedo.)

When we arrived, the kitchen crew was taking a break as there were no customers yet in the restaurant, it being now between lunch and dinner time. The kitchen was quickly back to work, demonstrating top notch service as well as food.

Willi pulled out the winery’s list of current wines on offer, and asked how many wines we would like to taste. I suggested that 6 wines “would be a lot”. Ever the generous host, he immediately said, “then we taste 9!” As you will see, we tasted far more than that.

Wines we tasted
2008 Bründlmayer Brut Sekt
NV Bründlmayer Brut Rosé
2011 Grüner Veltliner “leicht und trocken” L + T (light and dry)
2011 Grüner Veltliner Kamptaler Terrassen DAC
2011 Grüner Veltliner Loiser Berg Kamptal DAC 1er
2011 Grüner Veltliner Vincents Spiegel Kamptal DAC 1er
2011 Grüner Veltliner Ried Lamm Kamptal Reserve DAC 1er
2011 Grüner Veltliner Ried Käferberg Kamptal Reserve DAC 1er
2011 Riesling Zöbinger Heiligenstein Lyra Kamptal Reserve DAC
2008 Blauburgunder “Cécile”  (Pinot noir)

These wines were selected from an impressive list of more than 45 different bottlings. Making and offering so many wines to me reflects a real dedication and passion to the expression of vineyard nuances (terroir). It would be an injustice for me to attempt to describe these wines, but each had it’s own character and charm. It was rather like a beauty contest in which all of the contestants have already risen to the level of finalist.

It was getting a little late and Willi needed to attend to a few details before the end of the day, this being the busy harvest season. He invited us to order food and wine, recommending the Herbstmenü (Autumn prix fixe menu) not the 3 course tasting menu, but the 6 course menu (Of course!! Without question!) Below are the dishes and the accompanying wine pairings.

Salad of beluga lentils and amaranth
Chanterelles, radishes, and avocado
2011 Grüner Veltliner Loiser Berg Kamptal DAC 1er

Wild sea bass
Porcinis, salad hearts, and nut butter ravioli
2003 Riesling Zöbinger Heiligenstein Lyra Kamptal Reserve DAC

Sorbet of Bründlmayer Verjus 2009
Cornelian cherry, fennel, and Bründlmayer grape seed oil
NV Bründlmayer Extra Brut

Grilled saddle of venison
Pumpkin, garden chervil, and brussels sprouts
2003 Pinot Noir “Reserve”

Grilled saddle of venison

Pinot noir reserve 2003

Maître Antony’s Fourme d’Ambert
affinage with Bründlmayer Gelber Muskateller Trockenbeerenauslese 2009,
granny smith apple, walnuts, and chicory
2009 Gelber Muskateller Trockenbeerenauslese

Trockenbeerenauslese, Brundlmayer crest

Plum filled dumpling
on wild elderberry with quince ice
2009 Riesling Steinmassel TBA Trockenbeerenauslese

Plum-filled dumplings

This was an incredible meal. Well-prepared and thoughtful regional dishes of the season, paired with exceptional wines. This is how life should be. Without hesitation I recommend that you visit Heurigenhof Bründlmayer.

A final treat

Our “must have” wines we brought back:
2011 Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner Loiser Berg Kamptal DAC
2003 Bründlmayer Riesling Zöbinger Heiligenstein Lyra Kamptal Reserve DAC

For those who might be looking for Bründlmayer wines, the following are available in the Portland, Oregon area via Galaxy Wines. Just ask your local wine shop.
2010 Bründlmayer Zweigelt
2010 Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner Berg Vogel
2008 Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner Ried Lamm
2008 Bründlmayer Riesling Zöbinger Heiligenstein Lyra
2009 Bründlmayer Riesling Zöbinger Heiligenstein

Prost!

This was further compounded by showing up at the business office, instead of the restaurant, where we were expected. At the office, we were received very warmly, and assured that the boss, Willi Bründlmayer, was also running late. (I highly doubt this, but it was nice of them to say.) Fortunately we were able to briefly meet Sonja Mayr, who had kindly arranged the details of our visit.

Willi met us at the office and we were off straight away. As we pulled onto the main street, he asked us if we wanted to visit the vineyard or to have a bite to eat (with wine, of course). I think at that very moment, the sun must have appeared from behind a cloud because there was no question in my mind that we had to visit the vineyards immediately. [In Austria, vineyards are usually referred to as Weingärten, wine gardens, rather than Weinberge, as they are in Germany.]

Riesling Harvest

Hand-harvesting is the rule here, not the exception.

Willi Bründlmayer in Käferberg vineyard

Quick stop for a posed picture in the Käferberg (ladybug or beetle) vineyard. Herr Bründlmayer is as personable as he is knowledgeable.

Käferberg vineyard, underlying stone

We paused to look at this exposed rock face. The direction of the cracks give the vines a foothold and the need to follow the water down into the stone. This is an important part of the terrior (local character) of these particular vines, and one reason Riesling is planted here instead of Grüner Veltliner.

Riesling

Well-ripened Riesling grapes, ready for harvest.

“Untitled” by Heimo Zobernig

This unique sculpture was commissioned a few years ago. It was made of untreated steel, precisely so that it would weather and age over time. Nature has also contributed a few birds to the process. As you can see, we were at about 1000′ feet (325 m) here.

Our next destination was the newly built crushpad and adjacent cellars. This was the first year for the new equipment, but we walked through a door and were quickly in the historic cellars.

Brand new Crushpad at Bruendlmayer.

Large acacia wood fuders

These acacia casks are made by Schneckenleitner, Waidhofen an der Ybbs. (Ybbs is an Austrian river with no vowels in the name.) Acacia is a much more neutral wood than oak.

Red wine this way

Bründlmayer Vinothek, wine library

The Vinothek (wine library) is part of the older cellars. Looking at it now, it doesn’t seem nearly as dark as it actually was. It reminds me a bit of the Edgar Allen Poe story, “The Cask of Amontillado”. The creepy guy at left doesn’t help.

Now it was time to finally visit the Bründlmayer Heurigenhof, their outstanding restaurant, and to taste a “few” wines.

Next: Wine Tasting and Eating at the Heurigenhof.

So why all this need for creating order out of chaos?

When properly done, classifying a vineyard should mean more than just bragging rights and the chance to charge a premium price. Characterizing a vineyard or a wine should inform the consumer and set expectations for the quality and value of a wine. The problem is that there is no universal system for designating a vineyard as among the best; within Austria there are several that require closer examination.

In Austria there is a countrywide system that designates certain areas, and by extension their wines, as belonging to a DAC or Districtus Austriae Controllatus (Latin for Controlled District of Austria). Like the French DOC system, the Italian DOCG system, and the Spanish DO system, the Austrian DAC system establishes rules for a region or sub region. To bear the DAC designation, an Austrian wine itself must also meet certain criteria. Each DAC specifies the permitted types of grape, labeling, and alcohol content for a wine. Currently there are 8 DAC areas in Austria. Notably absent however, is the important Wachau region. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Districtus_Austriae_Controllatus

In addition to the DACs, classification is also undertaken by interested industry groups (in particular winegrowers and wineries). In Austria, the two most important of these are the “Vinea Wachau Nobilis Districtus” established 1983 for the Wachau district, and the “Österreichische Traditionsweingüter”, founded in 1992, which covers the Kamptal, Kremstal, Traisental, and Wagram areas. These two groups approach classification in very different ways, but in a sense with the same goal of recognizing and promoting quality wine from their respective regions.

The Vinea Wachau Nobilis Districtus, (The Noble Winegrowing Area of the Wachau)

Vinea Wachau Logo

The guiding rules and principles of the Vinea Wachau are embodied in their “Codex Wachau” which requires members to strictly follow six principles in the production of their wines. Further, wines are themselves categorized into one of three groups based more or less exclusively on the alcohol content of the finished wine. Here, the alcohol content is essentially a proxy for the ripeness of the grapes that go into the wine. Riper grapes are generally more concentrated and complex, with elevated sugar levels. There are three ripeness levels (or alcohol levels) which bear the proprietary names of Steinfeder (<11%), Federspiel (11.5-12.5%), and Smaragd (12.5+%).

Wachau Logos

Curiously, this system does not take into account the quality or reputation of specific vineyards, although many wines do bear the vineyard name. Link to Codex Wachau.

The Österreichische Traditionsweingüter, (The Association of Traditional Austrian Wine Estates)

Österreichischen Traditionsweingüter Logo

This organization has undertaken to classify specific vineyard sites as “Erste Lage” (Pronounced “AIR-sta LAH-guh”, roughly translated as “first location” in English), a designation comparable to “Premier Cru”, or “First Growth”. As of 2012, 60 vineyards of Grüner Veltliner and Riesling have been given this designation (only Grüner Veltliner and Riesling are allowed for the DAC).

Erste Lage Logo

With this system, it would seem that there is always a risk of “title inflation”, that is, that too many vineyards will be lauded as Erste Lage. In fact, however, there is a disincentive for the existing members of the association to accept new vineyards as Erste Lage because of the exclusivity factor. In a typically Austrian fashion, the group publishes an extensive document (134 pages) called “Klassification 2012” which gives the details of each anointed vineyard: size, elevation, grade (steepness), mapped location, soil type, orientation, grape varieties and the names of the wines produced from each parcel! Despite the vintage variations that inevitably occur each year, for each Erste Lage vineyard, there is a wine that validates that designation. Link to Association of Traditional Austrian Wine Estates

All of this makes for a bit of confusion, but I personally find the Österreichische Traditionsweingüter method to be the most interesting, and the Vinea Wachau method to be the most consumer-friendly.

Another source of online reviews is Wein-plus.eu (English/German).
http://www.wein-plus.eu/de/Weingut++Eichinger_2.0.563.0.202.0.105.0.10033.html

Vinaria rating scale:
14.0 – 14.9 Good (gut)
15.0 – 16.9 Very Good (sehr gut)
17.0 – 18.9 Exceptional (ausgezeichnet)
19.0 – 20.0 Grand (gross)

Too many awards to mention, This is a small fraction.

Vinaria Issue 5 2012 Grüner Veltliner (up to 12.5% alc).
Birgit Eichinger, Wechselberg 16.3/20 points
Rated #2, from a field of 200 wines!

Easy Riesling-like features, intense, stone fruit, citrus, melon, then increasingly Veltliner spices, spicy; more spices than fruit on the palate, certain minerality, well-focused, with bone-dry, already displaying beautiful extractions, good length.

Leicht Rieslinghafte Züge, intensiv, Steinobst, Zitrus, Melone, dann zunehmende Veltliner Würze, pikant; mehr Würze als Frucht am Gaumen, gewisse Mineralität, recht gebündelt, dabei knockentrocken, bereits schöne Extrakte anzeigend, gute Länge.

Birgit Eichinger, Hasel 15.5/20 points
Pretty, transparent nose, a lot of fruit, honeydew melon, Strudel apples, lemon balm, bright white pepper spice; taut and middleweight, not exactly the force that one expects, but round and balanced, a lot of herbal spices, inviting to drink.

Hübsche transparente Nase, viel Frucht, Honigmelone, Strudeläpfel, Melisse, helle weiße Pfefferwürze; straff und mittelgewichtig, nicht ganz den Druck, den man sich erwartet, aber rund und ausgewogen, viel Kräuterwürze, trinkanimierend.

Vinaria Issue 5 2012 Riesling (up to 12.5% alc)
Birgit Eichinger, Vom Berg 16.3/20 points
Initially a bit reserved, but then it takes off in a flash, vanilla and almond milk and a whiff of white peach; nice volume, a trace of integrated residual sugar , smooth and round, juicy affair, much spice and fruit, sparkling clean and pretty long, this is how it’s done.

Zunächst ein wenig gebremst, geht dann aber blitzartig auf, Vanille und Mandelmilch und ein Hauch weisser Pfirsiche; schönes Volumen, eine Spur Restzucker wird eingegliedert, geschmeidig und rund, saftige Angelegenheit, viel Würze und Frucht, blitzsauber und auch ziemlich lang, so wird’s gemacht.

Tasting Room

Vinaria Issue 6 2012 Grüner Veltliner (13+% alc)
Birgit Eichinger, Gaisberg 13.5%. 16.6/20 points
Legumes, some herbs, lentils, white pepper, stone fruit, light but good fruit nose; a bit brusque, pears, delicate dry, smoky spices, mandarin, grapefruit, properly balanced, middle long finish.

Hülsenfrüchte, bisschen Kräuter, Linsen, weißer Pfeffer, Kernobst, lind aber gute Fruchtnase; etwa schroff, Birnen, zart herb, rauchige Würze, Mandarinen, Grapefruits, recht ausgewogen, mittlere Länge.

Birgit Eichinger, Lamm 14.0%. 15.4/20 points
Very roasted, gravy oat flakes, barely any fruit, but thoroughly interesting, green peppery, onion skins; rather slim, a bit dry, soft consistency, cooked apples, carmelized fruit, missing a bit of raciness and substance.

Sehr röstig, Bratensaft Haferflocken, kaum Frucht, aber durchaus interessant, grünpfeffrig, Zwiebelschalen; eher schlank, bisschen herb, weiche Konsistenz, Bratapfel, karamelisierte Frucht, bisschen Rassigkeit und Substanz fehlt.