Well I still cant afford a true macro lense but I was able to capture some pretty neat things with a extension tube and +10 filter.

a razerblade up close.

I took a picture of my dirty keyboard.

A closeup of the pixels on my monitor

A closeup of the pixels of the monitor

First off I would like to thank 600rr.net because without that site and its members half of these things couldnt have been achieved. The pure ammount of stored knowledge here is amazing!

As the bike was sitting in my garage and tax returns were in, I thought it would be a great time to make this bike shine. Being that I am a graphic designer at heart I focused more on the lighting aspect instead of the performance. The bike is plenty fast for me.

First thing I wanted to address was the fact that since I replaced my turn signals with flush mounts, the forward light wasn’t really there anymore. The stalks were designed specifically for this.. but it wasn’t a clean look.

I set out and ordered some yellow lights off amazon. They came with resistors and were 5mm. Here is the ones I bought.

I set out using painters tape (frog tape or 3m works great) and measured equal distances for both sides. I purposely set this so wide because I am either going to double the lights or add colored running lights in the future.. I haven’t decided.

I used a 5mm bit to drill the holes in the plastic and I pushed the LED’s through. It was a tight fit so water should not be a problem

I wired these in series.. I know this might not have been the best, or even the correct wiring scheme, but doing researched seemed to point out that this uses the least amount of voltage with the least amount of power loss over resistance. I am sure if I were to double the amount of LED’s I would go with a paralleled connection scheme.

This provided this as the result

At the time I was less than impressed. I looked into the resistors and found that I could use two of the resistors and essentially double its power consumption safely without damaging the LED’s with an online calculator.

I ended up modifying the wiring and cleaning it up like so.

So here is the wiring scheme:

Once I doubled the resistor I was pleased with the brightness:

Next up on the mod list was getting her to glow.

I wanted multiple colors, a remote control, and it to be waterproof, so I ended up going with Joe Floridas 207 LED kit. The kit is a bit costly, but I am sure you could get the effect with a lesser kit. Honestly at certain points I was running out of places to put lights.

First off, let me show you where the lights are.. I will highlight them in pink.

So theres one in each headlight. One on each side underneath the headlights pointing down. One in the white plastic top half, one long one under the black plastic. And finally one on each side of the subframe.. glued right to the subframe. and one in the back where the subframe bolts to the frame (not highlighted) to iluminate the back fender.

Lets start with the headlights, since the front plastic was already off. I had to heat the headlights. Thanks to 600RR again, I found the correct temp. I removed the headlights. Honestly I went through a ton of articles and I suggest you do your research whenever you tackle a new project.

I went ahead and put em in the oven. Make sure you cover any plastic bits and connectors with foil to radiate the heat away from them. Also DO NOT put the headlights on the mounting bolts in the oven. I found this out the hard way and it melted slightly inward.. I had to fix this with a head gun and pliers.

Foil covered

Once its hot, pull it out with gloves, move the tabs and PULL. If its warm enough no tools are needed. I physically just pulled them apart straight from the oven with a pair of neoprene winter gloves on.

Sorry I don’t have pictures of this because it was a sticky mess and very time sensative. However I did watch a few youtube video’s and I suggest you do as well.

I placed the lights in the front part of the housing, pulled the wires to the back hole and closed it back up. I used foil tape after I closed it up because I didn’t want any moisture in there. The glue was still in perfect condition, but I didn’t want to have to re-do this.

I ended up running the wire through the existing plug gromet that was used for the bulb. You can do this or simply run it through the cap with the rest. I find my way was much easier.

In order to achieve this I had to remove the cables from the connector. You do this by taking something really tiny, pushing on the chrome part of the connector and pulling. Heres a video with a tool, I just used a tiny screwdriver and did one at a time.

once all the wires are removed, tape them to a thin bar (coat hanger in my case) that you pushed through the gromet with the white plug and pull it through gently. Once through remove the tape and re-connect the cables to the connector in the right order.

Next up was the fenders. Starting with the lower half I added them like so:

I hot glued it in place along with the standard sticky stuff it came with. Gotta kind of scuff the surface for the hot glue to stick. Sandpaper or a knife works.

The right side of this cable wasnt going to be used for anything so I covered it in tape. PVC (black) tape on the connector and then foil tape over that. Foil tape just light tinfoil redirects heat.

The top half of the fairing got the same treatment. Hotglue, tape and foil tape. Heres what one of the fenders looks like completed. Ofcourse you can do it however you want. This was how I was wiring it all together. The harness was at the front right below the lights. and the main harness was under the seat. Basically I ran the LED lights to plug in the same place as the front turn signals and the custom front face turn signals connected there too. The bottom fairing half connected to the top fairing half and ended at the black bottom right that was taped off. That way its modular.

Heres a finished LED set. The long wire thats covered in foil tape is the extension to the bottom half. Once you connect them together you may want to protect them. I used foil so it could be easily removed. The PVC wire hide stuff for desks might work as well, but its pretty hot in there.

Theres only one LED strip in the front because on the PHEONIX, every gap is covered with rubber or black plastic.. the engine isn’t visible at all. Its kind of a love hate relationship, whether not I like it.

Wiring the electrical box was pretty easy. Its a small box and has a bunch of break out cables. I stuffed it right under the back seat as close to the metal locking mech. as I could.

Foil tape once again holds everything in place. Foil tape is amazing, its very strong, but isn’t as sticky as duck tape so it can be removed again if needed and theres an added bonus of it being heat resistant.

I re-assembled and rode around to make sure nothing melted. The lights are heat resistant but some of the clearances on the bottom black fenders were close to the headers and we gotta be safe right?

I then added the Longest strips to the subframe. This is much easier to do if you remove the tail plastic. run it so the wires start closest to where the engine is. I started with the cut part at the back and ran the wires up the side black plastic into the battery compartment. I also put one on the black plastic battery housing right before the rear tire.

Here is some completed of the tail:

Once that was done I wired in the rear pegs that I got from TRIPAGELED.com I also put on a yoshimura lowering kit as the taillight I bought from tripage wasn’t really visible with the big exhaust.

Heres the lowering kit.

It was a pretty easy install, its just three metal brackets and a hollow tube that moves it down about 3 inches.

The rear peg lights wiring was run in the battery compartment right above where the exhaust curves back.

I also got one of the early TRIPAGE IT lights that I absolutely love.

Here is all of it together.

I also sent my guage to be redone. MOTYDESIGN.com hooked me up with a polorized film that changed what was dirty yellow to black and what was black to a color of my choice. Since my bike has lots of colored lighting I went a bit crazy with the color scheme.

Overall it took a few months to get this, and a sprocket change done. I am very happy with how the bike came out. Next time I run into money I defiantly want to get new levers, cruise control, new grips,  possibly a cage, and new reservoirs.

I will leave you with some completed pics. Oh and here’s a video If you have a question on a specific step, there may be some more pictures on my facebook mod log. Ask them there if you can as it notifies me. Thanks!

When it did snow, I took the time to take advantage of the ambient light the snow bounced to create these.

No we didn’t hunt eagles. We did take pictures of them and the surrounding area.

Some random nerdy/tech photo’s

Pictures of the random wildlife

It was really difficult to capture fireworks at night but I think these came out pretty well.

This was developed for a hosting company in exchange for hosting.

TalkSpringfield.com is a new project of mine. I want to bring the people of springfield together so this site has reviews of local businesses, a forum, group creation, fully interactive event calendar and many other features to get the community involved.