Ichikawa & Funabashi Explored

Photo of the Day: Outside Pachinko at Moto-Yawata Station

2014-06-24T06:58:00.000-07:00

Father Xmas Gets Behind the Blue Samurai

Photo of the Day: Cheap Beer Near the Station

2014-06-23T08:26:00.003-07:00

Practically Giving it Away!

Photo of the Day: Statues at Small Temple

2014-06-23T06:45:00.002-07:00

Fukurokuju (福禄寿) God of Wealth, Happiness, and Longevity

Heaven Comes to Funabashi

2013-10-11T19:09:00.001-07:00

Sorry for the short notice but this is one event that you really shouldn't miss if a. you love beer, b. live near Funabashi, and c. have some free time this afternoon. Our favourite Funabashi bar (Danke Schön) has gone all out to organize its very own Oktoberfest! The event started yesterday and will continue until tomorrow. It's an early kick-off, with pumps ready from around 11am (my god, I love Japan) and finishes around 7pm this evening. So if you have some time, hope to see you down there. We won't be hard to spot - just look for two very happy foreigners swilling steins of Bittburger, singing: "Ein Prosit, ein Prosit; Der Gemütlichkeit; Ein Prosit, ein Prosit; Der Gemütlichkeit ...oans, zwoa, drei, g'suffa! Prost!

Ein Prosit, ein Prosit
Der Gemütlichkeit
Ein Prosit, ein Prosit
Der Gemütlichkeit. - See more at: http://www.oktoberfest-songs.com/ein-prosit-lyrics.html#sthash.iImY3w51.dpu...Eins Zwei Drei Zuffe!"

Link: http://headlines.yahoo.co.jp/hl?a=20130919-00000066-minkei-l12

Danke Schön: http://ichixfuna.blogspot.jp/2012/07/whenyou-come-across-truly-great-bar.html

Ichixfuna Born Again Blog

2013-10-11T02:16:00.000-07:00

If you were a regular reader of this blog, you might have noticed this is ichixfuna's first post since May. That's precisely when my first was born – a bit of a life changer is the best understatement I can come up with. So, for anyone who's in a similar position in this area, you could do a lot worse than go through the same process as we did - my wife pretty much organized everything, by the way. This post is a product of her research, knowledge, and wisdom.

Having a baby in Japan can be a smoother experience if you have the right support and are confident in the services you use. First, you need to find a decent hospital. A friend of mine recommended a family run clinic in Nishi-Funabashi called Yamaguchi Hospital. This was a brilliant shout. They took very good care of my wife throughout the whole process, providing us with a few excellent 3D scans along the way and making the final 'push' as comfortable an experience as possible.

After that, it's a good idea to choose one pediatrician for regular visits. We chose one on our bus route near Moto-yawata Keisei station - Satou Kodomo Surgery (さとうこども医院). Check-ups are monthly and you get plenty of advice about the crucial first stages of parenthood. Also, painful as they are, inoculations are part of these visits. My wife kindly endured the screams and is already on her fourth visit of sets of five jabs. Thankfully, these reduce after the first few months – just a jab a month.

Ceremonially, the Omiyamairi (traditionally held 31-32 days after a boy's birth and 32-33 days after a girl's) is one for the calendar. At the local temple, a priest will go through the rituals of welcoming your baby to the world and blessing them in the process. This is also a great opportunity for a photo session, as everyone dresses up nice for the event – even the priest was happy to pose with us. Nice day all round.

Next on the list is a full-on photo shoot. Part of the deal with the Yamaguchi clinic is that they provide you with a coupon to get a decent set of photos done. Studio Alice must have a deal with them, so that's where we had ours done. Our little chap was on his best behavior and he was dressed up in a beautiful kimono and posed for several shots, which we had the chance to choose from at a later date.

The final stage for us is now deciding whether to put our child in the hoikuen system. We chose where we are living now because there is one fifty yards from us. Unfortunately, and I only found this out after, that it's a bit of a lottery when it comes to applications; there's basically no guarantee that you'll get your child a place there – could be on the other end of town. With any luck, he'll end up locally, though. Either that or my wife will probably stick with full-time home care, which she's happy to do.

So, if you're in or about to start the same process we've been through, let me finish by saying despite the sleep deprivation and the loss of hearing through scream practice, it's worth every minute. And knowing where to get the services certainly helped to put our minds at rest and made the whole experience leading up to it and in the first few months go particularly well.

Yamaguchi clinic: http://www.ywh.or.jp/byouin_annai/index.html

Alice photo studio: http://www.studio-alice.co.jp/index.html

Moving in Japan – Episode 2

2013-03-11T21:29:00.000-07:00

My first attempt at moving came two years after settling in to my new life in Japan. Stuck in my small, cockroach infested, fire hazard wooden box of an apartment, I thought it was about time I started looking for better options. An Australian friend had put it to me that we should consider looking for a place together. We decided that a good area for us both would be Nishi-Funabashi - convenient work wise and in an area that we both were familiar with. So the two of us went along to a small estate agents on the high street in search of pastures new.

One of the first problems that you will face in Japan if you are looking to move will be if you don't speak Japanese very well it becomes a far more complicated process. Knowing this, our choice of "Nishi", we thought, was a good one, as it's a fairly multicultural area (for Japan anyway) and so there would be a better chance that the estate agent would have some experience with foreigners.We were greeted with the complimentary green tea and offers of this place and that. The woman in charge – a confident, older mama-san who wouldn't look out of place as an izakaya matriarch - showed us some flats were available in a block just five minutes on foot from the station. We were asked if we wanted to take a look and we agreed.

We were accompanied by another slightly nervous woman in her 40s who had some command of English. She gave us some assurances about the place, telling us how popular it was and the usual spiel. We took the elevator to the 5th floor. We had a look inside – plenty of light, spacious enough for two. The best thing about it though was that it was clean. We were both ready to move, the place looked good, we checked with each other and both agreed that it would be a good option. So we headed back to the estate agent's to negotiate.

After arriving back, we sat down, waited with more green tea, and then declared our interest. The manager took over the negotiations, with the younger woman acting as translator. We said we were interested, this was translated, there was a pause, then the manager checked through her large address book. Running her finger down the page to an address with a thick red line through it, she declared surprise at something and relayed it to the translator:

“This cannot, sorry.”

“Sorry?”

“This apartment already taken.”

It appeared that we had just missed out on this flat as it had suddenly been snapped up by someone else through another agent. The thing that was quite strange though was that the red line canceling out the address didn't look like fresh ink (it was old and dry and partially covered by old stains mapping the page). Oh well, we thought, that's your luck sometimes. At that point the manager relayed something to the translator. It just so happened that there were two identical flats in the same block that were available and if we were interested we could sign up for one right away. "Great!", we agreed. OK, lets go and take a look. At this point the atmosphere changed. It was as if someone had dropped a massive faux pas. We asked through the translator again if it was OK to go and take a look. This was the response:

“Why? You've already seen it.”

At that point, in these sort of situations, where you don't really feel that much in control, you could buckle under pressure and make rash decisions. Luckily, as we were together, we made the point that we wanted to take a proper look at the place and we wouldn't go any further unless we were allowed to do so. Finally, after some patient negotiating, they reluctantly agreed to let us see the place. And thank god we did. We went back and looked at two places: one was the most rancid smelling room I have ever been in – and I lived in a squat for a while – with four oily car tyres sitting stacked in the middle of the tatami room, fist-sized holes in the walls, and a broken balcony window, the outside of which was smothered in pigeon shit. The second one was just as rotten.

Of course we immediately said no way, even though they claimed the flats would be thoroughly cleaned if we decided to take one. We didn't even bother going back in the shop, as we got the feeling they had been trying to dupe us. We did have the slight suspicion that if you were a foreigner moving into this area, with limited Japanese skills and desperate for a place to live, this would be the ideal scam. Maybe a little over exaggerated but at the time it felt visceral.

We thought it might just have been bad luck, so we tried once more around Nishi a few days later. This time we asked my friend's Japanese girlfriend to help us and chose a very well known estate agent – less likely to have the same thing happen again. We went to the shop with a better idea of what we were looking for. This time, it's hard to comprehend what happened. Definitely one of the more bizarre events I've experienced in Japan.

We browsed outside the shop for a few minutes, looking at places within our price range advertised in the window – we saw it was busy so we we waited for a decent opportunity. As we walked in, the staff – a large, unfriendly looking woman – gave us the most unwelcoming look. We did the usual, “sumimasen” courtesies, and asked if it was OK to sit down. After we did, my friend's girlfriend asked to see some apartments in our price range. The woman got angry. Our friend asked for confirmation, all the time my friend and I looking on helplessly, occasionally asking for updates on what was being said. Suddenly our translator got up, said the usual thank yous, and said we had to leave. At this point the woman turned to the Japanese couple next to us and with a big smile looked to assist them in any way possible.

When we got outside, my friend's timid and extremely kind girlfriend was shaking – adrenalin was peaking.

“What's the matter? What was that?” we asked.

“She said there was nothing for you here.” she replied.

“What? Nothing for who?” we implored.

She told us that the woman had made disparaging comments towards us and that she wanted us to leave. She had said there was nothing, even though there were several places in our price range in the window. We went mad, at one point nearly steaming back in for an explanation. I caught the woman's gaze and she gave me a “What you going to do about it? / get out of here” look. My friend's girlfriend was livid, and she did mention the “R” word, but it would be hard to prove anything. Maybe she thought my friend and I were a couple and didn't approve of that kind of thing. Maybe she was just having a bad day, but the behavior of a member of staff at somewhere so well known was quite shocking. Anyway, it was enough to put us off more flat hunting. We both agreed to leave it for a while and stay in our respective boxes.

These episodes are certainly an uncomfortable reminder that some people will do anything to take advantage of those not in the know. It also served as a wake up call that if you are moving in Japan you should make sure you are thoroughly prepared, for you are likely to have some jaw-dropping moments, waiting to surprise you when you least expect it.

Episode 3 to follow.

Moving in Japan - Episode 1

2013-02-12T18:03:00.001-08:00

With all the prospects of paying hefty key money (essentially a gift for the landlord), high deposits, and fees for all sorts of things, the hours of sitting in estate agents, filling out tons of paperwork, only to be let down at the last minute as the apartment suddenly gets snapped up by someone else, the hours of searching around for something that is not going to leave you broke for the next six months, but is barely big enough to accommodate your average XXL gaijin, the days of boxing, shifting and uprooting your life, and the delights of cleaning your old apartment from top to bottom and then being charged a month's rent as 'cleaning fees', welcome to the world of moving in Japan - it's not for the fainthearted. Here are some of my high(low)lights.

This will be my fifth move in ten years and the thought of it is as appealing as the last time I moved (around the time of the 2011 Tōhoku earthquake). My first four years in Japan were spent living in the same apartment. I was living in Shimosa Nakayama (close to where I'm living now, incidentally – full loop), and I was living in what could be described as little more than a box with small, separate shower and toilet. For this, albeit being very close to the station, I was paying ¥70000 per month (about $750), and as I didn't really have much to compare it to at the time, I accepted that this was probably not a bad price to pay.

My Austrian landlord had taken practically all of my money the first evening after I'd arrived – one and a half months rent up front, deposit, and insurance. He gave me the key and dropped me off. I'd just got here so I was too excited to care. The place was a lot smaller than I had been used to in the UK, but that was OK - I was in Japan! I wrote a diary for the first three months of my stay and most of what I wrote, reading back on it, was quite positive. My company gave me an advance on my wages to cover bills, eat and travel to work, and so I could keep up with rental payments, and so this helped me to get settled. In the small cluster of apartments in which I was living were a few other foreigners. I didn't really get to talk to them much, as they would come and go with quite high regularity.

After a while I got talking to one of the other residents that was living in one of the same sized apartments as me. It turned out I had been paying ¥10000 more a month than everyone else. So not only did I suddenly realise that the rent was extortionate for what I was getting, I was in fact being ripped off. I went to see the landlord about this and asked him to explain himself. He said that what I had heard was untrue, then showed me a few examples in his tenant book. Unfortunately, he showed me a few too many pages - “How about this, this and this?!” I said, pointing to apartments being rented at ¥60000. He admitted that he was overcharging me. I told him I wasn't going to pay him a month and a half rent to make up for the money he'd been taking off me, and with a slight grin he agreed. No “sorry” or contrition, just an air of, “Oh well, you caught me, but there's not much you can do about it.”

Looking back though, I really didn't have a leg to stand on, or at least I felt I didn't have anyone to turn to. Thinking about it I should've moved a lot sooner, but I ended up staying in his apartment for around 4 years, now that it was a bit cheaper – being close to the station and to work did help a lot too. Until a friend suggested we move in together, I'd never tried to look for another apartment. And so began the long, arduous trip into the world of moving in Japan.

Episode 2 coming soon.

A Glass Raised to Toastmasters Ichikawa

2013-01-13T01:03:00.002-08:00

Last weekend I was kindly invited to attend, and participate in, a session of Ichikawa's Toastmasters Club (TMC). The Club, set up by local residents and members from other Toastmasters clubs in the area, and chartered by Toastmasters International, California in March 2012, meets twice monthly and gives participants an opportunity to voice their opinion on a variety of topics that are important to them individually or to society in general.

Toastmasters International is an organization that offers support to people wishing to learn to be better speakers, listeners, and thinkers, as well as helping participants to improve their presentation and leadership skills. Founded in the States in the mid-20s by Dr. Ralph C. Smedley, its popularity spread, and now it can be found in over 100 countries around the world.

Toastmasters was introduced to Japan in 1953, approved in 2005, and as of 2013 there are now 129 clubs across 6 divisions in 22 areas, with new ones forming every year. These clubs take presenting very seriously and every year there are club (individual), area (5 clubs), division (Kanto area), and district (Japan) speech contests from which the eventual winner travels abroad to compete for the title of "World Champion of Public Speaking."

Each meeting is set around 3 or more main speakers who have prepared speeches based on guidelines from communicational competence manuals provided by the club. The role of participants, including officers for the day – Toastmaster (host), Table Topic Master (TTM), Timekeeper, Grammarian, Vote Counter, Um-Ah Counter - is not only to present but also to evaluate and give feedback to the speakers on that day - responsibilities are shared so everyone can contribute as equally as possible.

The meeting started with a thought of the day (about adversity)*, and a word of the day “inevitably” from the Toastmaster. This was followed by a short topic feedback session by the TTM. The topics posed related to events that happened in 2012 and that will happen in 2013. Participants each took turns standing up and gave their opinions about these important events.

The main speakers' topics included a talk about the history and renovation of Tokyo station, the history of Toastmasters International and its popularity in Japan, and a discussion on Japan's dwindling birth rate, which included a feedback session from other participants, giving their ideas on how to improve things; this also extended to the state of social security, healthcare, and the economy.

After an hour of presentations we all marked cards and judged each other's efforts. And at the very end, prizes were given for the best speeches. I had tuned out for a minute as I was evaluating the contribution of the Timekeeper, and, to my surprise, I heard my name called out. I was awarded a ribbon for "Table Topic Speaker of the Day"; my acceptance speech: “I really don't deserve this.”

At Toastmasters Ichikawa participants can present their ideas safely in the knowledge that their time spent at the lectern will be respected, their ideas will be listened to and points discussed in a mature and non-confrontational manner, and at the same time they will receive a great deal of constructive criticism that will help them improve their presentation skills. Part of the Club's mission statement is that they are there to “provide a mutually supportive and positive learning environment...which fosters self-confidence and personal growth.” This was completely fulfilled on the day that I attended, and the fact that I went home with a winner's ribbon just goes to show how generous in their praise the members of the club really are.

*"If you're feeling low, don't despair. The sun has a sinking spell every night, but it comes back up every morning. The way I see it, if you want the rainbow, you gotta put up with the rain."

~ Dolly Parton

Ichikawa Toastmasters Club

Meeting held twice monthly - venues vary

Next meeting: 2013/1/19 (Sat.)10-12am

市川駅行政サービスセンター I-linkルーム

Ichikawa Station Administration Service Center I-link Room

http://ichikawa.toastmastersclubs.org/

Akemashite Omedetou Gozaimasu!

2012-12-31T20:52:00.000-08:00

New Year's Eve called for a visit to Tōbu Hyakkaten 東武百貨店 (Tōbu department store), conveniently situated under JR Funabashi station, which accommodates the Sobu Line and Tobu Noda Line and is only a short distance from Keisei Funabashi Station on the Keisei Main Line. Places like this can reach bursting point around this time. Though it shouldn't be missed if you enjoy the final shopping push of the year and the mad scramble for all the best shōgatsu (Japanese New Year) culinary delights.

Wandering around B1 of this place is not for the agoraphobic or claustrophobic among us; there's no end of pushing and barging, and this is accompanied by the implored wailing of the myriad of shop staff tempting you to try samples of the never ending lines of delicious looking food. But it does have the character and buzz of a thriving market and there is little in the way of antagonism between shoppers - people do maintain some etiquette despite the ample opportunity to do exactly the opposite.

There is always so much on offer, but the more traditional food for this time of year - toshikoshi soba (buckwheat noodles), ozoni (rice cake soup), osechi (a box filled with a variety of foods), and mochi (glutinous rice) - are a very tempting choice for the last meal of this year and the first meal of the next. Other choices include ebi chilli (fried shrimp in a sweet spicy sauce), fried chicken, Gyoza (Chinese dumplings), yakitori (skewered chicken), and a seemingly never-ending selection of sweets and cakes. There is also a choice of Italian, Chinese, and Indian cuisine - the list goes on.

Though the hustle and bustle can get a bit much, the atmosphere is quite special - a bit like last minute Xmas shopping in the West. Once you've made your choice, it's time to head for the exit, slightly battered and bruised, but loaded with enough food to last a week.

The choice of food this year was easy - fried chicken, soba noodles with large fried shrimp, mochi, and, of course, ebi chilli. All washed down with a nice bottle of sake and a few beers. Lovely.

Happy New Year!!!

Bristol 23: Beer, Football, Music & Laughter - Tick!

2012-12-18T17:24:00.003-08:00

A bar well worth visiting in the Ichikawa area is a small, foreigner owned establishment called Bristol 23. A couple of years ago, while living out of Tokyo up in cold but warmhearted Niigata City, I used to visit a bar whose sole proprietor was an expat from New Zealand. This soon became my favorite place to hang out, and particularly so because of the great relationship I had with the owner - just sitting at the bar chatting with him or with the regulars was a real pleasure. The closest I've come to experiencing the same is at Bristol 23. So, if what you're looking for is to feel welcomed within a warm and genial atmosphere, you should check this place out.

Established in 2008 by two Ghanaian expats, Ernie and Tim, the bar takes its name from two sources: firstly, both owners lived in the UK, with one of them living in Bristol. Secondly, the 23 represents high skill or success within the field of sport and is a number worn by such superstars as Michael Jordon and David Beckham. The love of sports and music is standout here, as is the sense of humour of the guys who run it - rarely do you find yourself chatting and laughing to this degree after arriving alone at a bar.

Though easy to find and an easy place to meet new people, the bar provides more than just a warm atmosphere at a convenient location from Motoyawata station. Ernie and Tim have created an atmosphere that offers an environment for newcomers to find their feet after arriving in Japan - perfect for someone who has yet to find their way around. It's not that you can't sit on your own and sup a pint, but it's certainly ideal for meeting the locals and a variety of professional people who have something interesting to say. One regular is a professor of Physics at a university in Tokyo, and chatting to him at the bar for an hour is an absolute pleasure. Others I've talked to include traders, social workers, salary men, and people from many walks of life. This isn't just a place where people come to practice English. People genuinely have something interesting they want to express about themselves.

Apart from the beer and good chat you can enjoy here, there is also a wide range of food on tap. I haven't eaten extensively from the menu, but I have sampled their very reasonably priced and tasty homemade pizza. Other delights include the tuna nachos, African kebab, and the quite unique dish for the Ichikawa area - homemade "Gumbo" (Louisiana soup). Drinks wise, there are a wide range of whiskeys for the connoisseur, a good selection of bottled ales, and the usual draft fair. They also serve cocktails, two of which, the Brain Buster and the Wild Wild West, are something to behold. But you don't find the need to get paralytic here. It really is enough just to soak up the ambiance and joviality of those who frequent the bar.

Another quirk is the music, which is available upon request. The bar has a large screen TV which is connected to the Internet, so you can request literally anything - my favourite burst of three last time I was there was One Direction (not my choice), followed by The Doors (mine :)), followed by Smokey Robinson. Even if these artists aren't your cup of tea, this just highlights the variety on offer. There is also live blues played from time to time which, in an small, intimate environment like this, is rather special.

A personal highlight for me is that fact that Ernie and Tim are both football fanatics, which means that they show the English Premier league most weekends. With Ernie being a Chelsea fan, Tim - Spurs, and me - Arsenal, you might think things could be a little frosty when it comes to football chat. This, however, couldn't be further from the truth. In fact, I have never been in a bar where I've felt so relaxed bantering about football. There is not an ounce of animosity between us, despite our allegiances. For that reason, I love this bar.

Bristol 23
3-6-17-#206 Minamiyawata
Ichikawa-shi
Chiba-ken　
272-0023
Phone: 047-376-3722

Menu: http://www1.icnet.ne.jp/as2tvyqj/d&f_e.html

Map: http://www1.icnet.ne.jp/as2tvyqj/access_e.html

The guys have just opened up Bristol 23's sister bar in Urayasu, so watch this space for some more info about that.

Crossing Borders - A Stroll in the Park

2012-10-25T22:53:00.000-07:00

After a week of busy trains, traveling through interminable stretches of concrete, and standing shoulder to shoulder with the silent masses, you could do a lot worse that finding yourself wandering within Tokyo's Kasairinkai Park (葛西臨海公園 Kasai Rinkai Kōen).

Only a short ride across the border from Chiba, built on reclaimed land which was previously used as garbage lots, and officially opened in 1989, the park runs along one edge of Tokyo Bay and is a great place to visit if you want to sit and relax near water or you want to get lost in a bit of nature. Within the park there is an aquarium (Tokyo Sea Life Park), a bird sanctuary, and a large ferris wheel (the tallest in Tokyo) which was opened in 2001, on which you can view Tokyo Bay, Edogawa, Tokyo Disneyland, and Mount Fuji. So if you have kids, this is a great spot to bring them and a place where you will be able to get a decent afternoon's worth of entertainment.

I visited the park on Sunday which was, weather wise, one of those stunning autumn days you get in Japan. After coming out of Kasai Rinkai Koen station, you are greeted by a small fountain, gently puffing its water skywards. And behind this, set on the horizon, is the Diamond and Flower Ferris Wheel. As Tokyo Disneyland is the next stop down, you imagine that this may be conveniently arranged to help parents persuade their kids that they can have a nice day out, even if it doesn't involve shelling out ¥10000 to see Mickey Mouse and friends.

The aquarium is conveniently close to the station too, and walking across the square leading up to the Tokyo Bay coastline you often see street performances, who are commonly found at tourist attractions around Japan; sometimes you see a 'one-man-and-his-monkey-on-a-string' show at touristy spots (a bit of an uncomfortable watch, in my opinion), but this time there was a guy juggling and skillfully performing balancing tricks to the appreciatively enthusiastic crowd.

As you get near the bay area you come across a modern looking building, which is intended to be a viewing gallery/info spot. The Japanese usually do this quite well, and there is nothing particularly wrong with this architecturally pleasing building, but it is very sparse inside (information wise, TVs meant for public information looked like they were under maintenance), and someone had decided to flick the air-con switch to off. So, just a quick walk through here and then on to the the main part of the park.

As you follow the path which runs parallel to the bay, you soon come across the bird sanctuary, where you will find watching the 'birders' eagerly photographing their tweeting friends as interesting as the nature itself. Viewing is done from something that resembles an artificial cave, where you can look out of decently sized slots. There are two of these viewing caves placed conveniently on each side of the reserve. If you are patient enough, you can observe a variety of migrational species of birds. And by the quality of the photographic equipment you can see being used, there is no doubting how serious the people take bird and nature watching here.

One of the great features about this area is the panoramic view across the bay. From the concrete building housed within part of the sanctuary, one guy had even set up a full-scale telescope, which lead me to think he was waiting for sundown to attempt a proper view of the cosmos. There are ¥100-a-go mini-telescopes at hand too that wouldn't be out of place on a coastline promenade in Britain and they are perfect for watching the myriad of vehicles within the bay, including the planes coming into land at Haneda airport.

Sometimes you may get the feeling that as you walk around 'natural' areas in Japan, it's all a bit manufactured. And indeed here it sometimes feels like you are walking around a Disneyland for adults. But there is no question that the work done to preserve the Bay's natural habitat through renovation and conservation has produced one of the best getaways you will find in the area.

Kasai-Rinkai Park: located is about a half an hour from JR Tokyo Station on the Keiyo Line (京葉線). .
Buses can be taken from Kasai Station and Nishi-Kasai Station to Kasai Rinkai Park on Tokyo Metro's Tousai Line.

http://goo.gl/maps/61PDX

Shopping out of Tokyo

2012-09-20T06:27:00.000-07:00

Japan is by far one of the most stylish countries in the world. The fashion you see here is replicated, often months or even years later, in Europe and North America. Tokyo’s Harajuku, Shibuya and Ginza districts are fashion capitals in their own right and designers and stylists such as Louis Vuitton’s Kim Jones and Patricia Fields (stylist for Sex and the City) often make trips to Tokyo for inspiration and design ideas.

Ichikawa and Funabashi, being satellite cities, don’t have the same sartorial choices you see in the capital but there are many places to buy affordable and stylish apparel. Ichikawa’s Colton Plaza deals more in family fashion and has a small roster of outlets such as cheaper chain stores like ABC Mart (sports shoes) and fast fashion king Uniqlo. Funabashi, however, has a much more impressive array of stores from high street chains to designer names.

Funabashi’s Seibu department store (next to JR Funabashi) includes menswear brands such as Ralph Lauren, Brooks Brothers, Calvin Klein, Burberry and domestic labels such as Takeo Kikuchi. The womenswear is equally as impressive with well respected names such as Issey Miyake, Margaret Howell and more affordable local brands such as Human Woman. Towards the Tokyo Bay area of Funabashi, however, you’ll come across LaLaport which is one of Japan’s most famous and biggest shopping malls. In addition to restaurants and a Toho Cinema (which we’ll cover in a separate post) there is an amazing selection of shopping on offer including areas devoted to childrenswear, sportswear and contemporary fashion.

The list is endless but LaLaport includes Agnes B, Coach, Furla, Armani Exchange, Tommy Hilfiger, Stussy, Camper, Uniqlo, Forever 21, Mango, Banana Republic, Gap and the newly opened American Eagle Outfitters. The real gems, though, are the Japanese stores such as United Arrows, Beauty & Youth United Arrows, Fredy & Gloster, Nano Universe and my personal favorite Good Deal General Factory which has a compact yet very on-trend selection of menswear and womenswear. This select store, which is a Tribeca apartment transported (floors and all) to Japan, includes stock from John Bull, Trickers, Ralph Lauren and outdoor brands such as Duluth Pack and Danner. Props to the buyers for having such excellent and refined taste!

The best thing to do, however, is to get your credit cards ready and spend a day walking around LaLaport. It’s a shopping paradise like no other and when you need a bit of respite there are a few Starbucks and numerous other cafes and restaurants to give you some well-deserved sustenance.

LaLaport Tokyo-Bay: 2-1-1 Hama-cho, Funabashi City, Chiba

http://tokyobay.lalaport.net/pc/

One for the Devoted Reader

2012-08-25T22:49:00.001-07:00

When I first came to Japan, around 10 years ago, there was a fairly healthy English book scene. In Tokyo there used to be the famous Good Day Books in Ebisu, The Blue Parrot chain in Akihabara and Takadanobaba not to mention Japanese bookstores which sold English titles and magazines such as Kinokuniya in Shinjuku.

Ichikawa City Chuo Library

Times have changed though and as the Japanese are, arguably, culturally looking inwards more than before, the opportunities to buy English books have become less and less. In Tokyo there is only one English book store – the newly located Good Day Books in Gotanda. Tower Records in Shibuya also hold a fairly good but small choice of English books and magazines as do the equally reliable and expensive Kinokuniya.

As to be expected the Funabashi and Ichikawa areas have little or no opportunities to purchase English titles although the Maruzen in nearby Tsudanuma has a healthy selection of novels, children’s books, art and photography and fashion/culture magazines. Luckily, however, both Funabashi and Ichikawa have libraries which hold yousho洋書(foreign books).

Funabashi municipal library, located on the main Honcho-dori, has a small pile of non-fiction and well-known Japanese novels translated into English on the shelves. You will find work by Natsume Soseki, Yasunari Kawabata, Natsuo Kirino and many others as well as biographies of world leaders such as Bill Clinton. If you’re looking for novels from foreign authors, though, you have to ask for the yousho list from the counter and the helpful staff will give you a very lightweight binder with a few pages detailing the books they have to offer including some Philip Roth, John Updike, Agatha Christie and Bret Easton Ellis. It’s far from comprehensive but if you want to read something it’s not too bad.

On the other hand Ichikawa library, next to Colton Plaza, has a great English books section. Rows and rows of new releases and classic titles including crime, mystery, beat fiction and more literary works in addition to a comprehensive section of non-fiction, philosophy and even a whole area devoted to Japanese study materials and Japanese novels translated into English. It’s a veritable goldmine compared to Funabashi library. If you live in Ichikawa you can lend five books at a time and if, like me, you live in Funabashi you can still join and lend three books at once.

So it’s not the most ideal place to be a bibliophile but Funabashi and Ichikawa do cater for all the devoted readers out there and if you look well enough you’ll be sure to find something to your taste. Let us know if you know of any other places which sell English titles and we’ll add them to the list.

市川市中央図書館 (Ichikawa City Chuo Library)

1-1-4 Onitaka, Ichikawa, Chiba Prefecture.
Tel: 047-320-3333
http://www.city.ichikawa.lg.jp/library/ (Japanese only)
http://goo.gl/maps/nPf86 ‎

船橋市図書館 (Funabashi Central Library)

Honcho 4-38-28.

Tel: 047-460-1311

http://tinyurl.com/9r9uuo8
http://goo.gl/maps/10VD3

The Unpredictability of Eating Out in Japan

2012-08-22T00:38:00.002-07:00

Life in Japan can be fairly amusing and quite unpredictable at times and on odd occasions pretty banal events can turn into something enjoyably farcical. I have no evidence to prove it, but I'm guessing, percentage wise, events like the one I'm about to describe don't happen that much to Japanese people and are mainly reserved for the foreign community.

I was looking for somewhere different to eat around my area, which is close to the Niike Colton Plaza mall. There are a variety of decent places at 'the Plaza' – but that's for another blog – but, no, I reckoned I could trust my instincts to find somewhere good, even if it was unfamiliar. I got on my bike and rode up to Route 283, where I found a restaurant serving Chinese Cuisine - Lui's Kitchen. The thing that attracted me to it was that the trees outside were decorated with flashing Christmas lights, which, admittedly, is not that rare here, but it definitely made the place stand out; I thought, “Hey, Christmas all year round, then”, though at that stage I didn't imagine I'd be leaving with a present.

I walked in and was greeted by the manager, who pretty much leapt forward at me, his hand outstretched. Now, this caught me out a bit as my mind had been wandering for a while and had only expected the usual courtesies. Anyway, he suddenly became very animated, coming at me with a barrage of questions and information: “Where you from? You American? How long you stay in Japan? I don't speak English. I speak Japanese, but no English. This is good chance, you come here. What you do? Where you work? What's your name? Did you see the Olympics? You have wife? You have baby?”

He continued:

“My name Jo-Shu. Call me Shu, like: shumatsu.” (weekend).

Anyway, this continued for a bit with Shu telling me that there are live music events at the restaurant on Saturdays, that he was from the south of Peking, that he used to be a pizza chef in Shimbashi, and that his hero was Bruce Lee, and that I was the first western foreigner to have visited his restaurant. Then he said, “You come next time I will give you muryō” (free stuff). “How old are you? Where you live? You like Japan? Why you come here?” All this is fine, and I really don't mind answering, but I thought I'd better order, as that was the main reason I was here. I ordered tan tan-men (spicy noodle dish) with chahan (egg fried rice), and a beer (why not?) and that was enough to give me a couple of moments to take in the surroundings.

Shu returned and continued: He then told me he was 29, that he was the manager, and that he wanted to study English - I kind of sensed where this might go (private lessons), but I told him what I did, where I worked etc. - that he played guitar, and that he used to spin pizzas when he worked at the Italian restaurant, which he demonstrated to me with a hand towel. I started, “Oh, I used to...”

Shu: “You want to stay Japan? You like music?”

Shu went away and then returned with guitar in hand. He said that he really loved to play and asked if I did. Then he started to serenade me as I ate, me complementing by bobbing my head as I slurped away at my noodles (not the easiest of motions). The strumming went on for a few minutes uninterrupted - there weren't any other customers, so I got the full complement of the performance.

As I was eating, Shu said: “O-Hashi ga jozu des ne?” (you are good at using chopsticks, aren't you?). I gave the standard answer that I'd been in Japan for 10 years so it was nothing special. Then Shu went off to get me some Italian pickles, which he said were free, and if I brought my wife next time there would be lots of muryō.

Then Shu asked to take my photo, which he did while I was eating, then got me up and got the chef to take a couple of snaps. To tell the truth, this was all so amusing, I wasn't bothered at all. Well, not much. When I choose to eat on my own, it tends to be a very quiet affair. This was certainly the opposite. Then a couple of other customers came in which changed the dynamic a bit. Shu went to turn up the TV, which was showing a really intense anime (Japanese animation) of the game igo (囲碁) (ancient Chinese board game). And the background sound of this made the whole atmosphere very quirky.

I got the bill, which was a very reasonable ¥1300. Though when I asked for it, indicating I was leaving, Shu exclaimed: “Ahhh, samishi!” (I'm going to miss you). Seriously, no one loves a love-in more than me, but I really had to get on with things. When I got to the cash register, Shu handed me something. It was a small doll doing the hula. He said, “For you – muryō”. I said, “No, that's fine, honestly.” He said “No, OK, I have many here” and produced another couple from a bag behind the counter. So I duly accepted.

What I set out for was an evening meal and what I got in return was serenaded, a new friend, compliments for my chopstick skills, treated like I was famous, and a hula doll thrown into the mix. When I got home, Tokyo TV was showing “Everything” performed by Misia with Christmas trees and snowflakes projected in the background and baubles swaying behind the teary-eyed studio guests. Am I missing something or has Christmas come early this year?

Misia: "Everything" - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aHIR33pOUv0

リューズキッチン (Liu's Kitchen)

３丁目-３２−１２ Onitaka

Ichikawa,

Chiba Prefecture

272-0015

047-377-5035

http://goo.gl/maps/qL2iT

Explosions in the Sky

2012-08-08T23:07:00.000-07:00

Last weekend saw Ichikawa City's yearly “Festival of Light and Sound on a Summer's Night", which is the largest Hanabi (fireworks festival) held in the Chiba area. Situated on the banks of the Edo river, separating Tokyo and Chiba, the display draws crowds from far and wide and the from the spectacle it is easy to understand why it is so popular.

This year's show provided the crowds with an amazing range of mesmerizingly colourful explosions in all shapes and sizes. Some 12000 fireworks, ranging in price from ¥6000 to ¥50000, and paid for out of local taxes, filled the skies for over an hour and a half. All of which was accompanied by an excited commentator on a tannoy, interspersed with blasts of triumphant music, informing spectators of the order of proceedings; no rest for the senses here.

The festival attracts people of all age ranges and backgrounds – you see large groups of young guys and girls dressed in yukata and kimono (Japanese traditional dress), big family get-togethers, guys on their own with professional cameras obsessively capturing the event, and many, many couples. As the restriction of space in Tokyo can limit the opportunity to have large house parties, garden parties and barbecues etc. like you often see in the West, this event gives families and friends ample opportunity to hang out en masse. This spatial freedom certainly makes it one of the year's most relished events.

Most people bring along tarpaulin ground sheets, neatly marking their individual plot, and these cover the floor as far as you can see; even at an angle on the banks leading down to the main area – the laws of gravity at times seem not to apply here. You can get very close to the action, literally right underneath the show, and I have done this once before, but it is very hard to get a slot that close unless you have booked in advance. Anyway, the fireworks shoot so far up in the air it's unlikely that you will miss much from whatever distance you are sitting.

Along with Valentines, White Day, and Christmas, it feels like there is a fair emphasis on romance when staring up at these Japanese 'flowers of fire' (direct translation of Hanabi). There is something about sitting with the love of your life while watching this kind of show that feels just right. Whether or not it's something intrinsically beautiful about the fireworks that connects with the heart, I can't be sure, but celebrations of this kind seem to be inherently connected with the spirit of lovers in Japan.

Among the shrieks of “kawaii!” (sweet/cute) and “sugoi!” (wow/brilliant), combined with cheers and applause, it's hard not to get into the collective spirit and get carried away by the whole spectacle. At the start of each individual mini-set, and then at each set's denouement, which is a deafening boom and crackle, which certainly brings about the highest degree of crowd acknowledgement, it's not uncommon either to hear the odd “kowaii!”(scary) mixed in with the joyful exclamations. There's no doubting that this is one of the most anticipated events on the calendar and enjoyed wholeheartedly.

After the 'grand finale', which culminates in a cacophony of noises and explosions, it's time to head for the nearest station. That in itself is something to behold. There are so many people trying to board the trains, and it's so humid this time of year, it is almost worth the hour walk home. Which I decided to do this year.

Ichikawa City's "Festival of Light and Sound on a Summer's Night"
Held on first Sunday of August every year
Start: 7pm (approx)

Tel: 047-704-0057
http://www.ichikawa-hanabi.jp/

Directions: 15 minutes on foot from the South Exit of JR Ichikawa Station / about 30 minutes from the South Exit of JR Motoyawata Station
http://goo.gl/maps/vs3eT

The Best Bar in Japan

2012-07-04T23:26:00.000-07:00

When you come across a truly great bar you’re naturally reluctant to share it with anyone else. It’s with a certain amount of hesitation, then, that I want to introduce the magical and idiosyncratic world of Danke Schon.

The Magic That is Danke Schön

A few minutes walk from JR Funabashi station, Danke Schon is a German bar which has, since 1983, been serving top-quality imported beers and hearty fare to the good folk of Funabashi. Run by the charismatic and super-friendly Okawara-san, a Funabashi native and former Lufthansa (German national airline) sales employee, Danke Schon is an establishment which, from the first time I ventured there, pulled on my heartstrings. Great beer – the glorious Bitburger, Guinness and Heartland on tap, Becks, Lowenbrau and Erdinger in bottles and an amazing selection of handmade sausages such as Nurnberger, Chorizo and Thuringer (made by an 80 year-old German man based in Atsugi, Kanagawa prefecture), make it, in my humble opinion, one of the best bars in the world. It’s a big claim but after many years and many, many great nights spent there it seems more than justified.

Meister Okawara und Fraulein

Okawara-san, whose cheerful face graces the bar’s façade and menus, welcomes everyone with a friendly Guten Abend! (German for Good Evening!) and sets about making you feel instantly at home. The locals, too, never fail to make you welcome with polite chit-chat whilst genuinely taking an interest in where you are from and what you’re doing in Japan. Never intrusive it’s the perfect balance of hospitality and hand-picked, quality products which make Danke Schon such a local treasure. It’s also meeting the legion of regulars, who come from far and wide, that makes me feel like I’m not alone in my adoration of this place.

Es Ist Sehr Gut

The interior, which has never changed since opening in the 80s, can only be described as enchanting. It resembles, what I imagine a German grotto to look like – wooden tables and seats, postcards from Okawara’s frequent visits to Munich and other places in Germany, authentic German beer steins, all topped off with a real, functioning cuckoo clock. It’s surreal, but in a nice way.

You’ll be glad to know the drinks menu isn’t restricted to beer. The bar has a healthy selection of standard cocktails, beer cocktails, whisky, schnapps and German wine - with the delightfully named Franken Wein being a particular favorite with the locals. The food menu also includes some gems such as German potato, beef stroganoff, spare ribs, leberkase and sauerkraut as well as other snacks and meals.

If you hit the jackpot you might make it on the special nights when Okawara-san decides to treat the patrons to a huge glass boot filled with beer – passed down the bar while everyone sings German drinking songs intermixed with delirious cheers. The scene wouldn’t be complete without Okawara-san donning his traditional German feathered cap and ringing a bell attached to the end of the bar. It‘s quirky but it’s what Danke Schon’s about. Forget the polished pretentiousness of bars in Aoyama and Nakameguro and the sleazy sports bars of Roppongi. Danke Schon is a real bar where real people go – not to be seen or to be fleeced, but to be at one with your neighborhood and neighbors and to finally feel like you belong.

Danke Schon: Honcho, Funabashi-shi 4-16-33
ダンケシェーン - 橋市本町４－１６－３３
Map: http://goo.gl/maps/eNZt

Funabashi Hot Spot

2012-06-28T21:52:00.000-07:00

As you would expect in major cities like Tokyo and its greater regions, it can be fairly challenging to find places to get away from it all and relax. However, one of the best places for a decent unwind around town is at an onsen. These are natural hot springs that pump water from deep below the earth into communal bathing areas. Though a lot of newer onsens have a manufactured feel, they do offer the chance to get away from the madness of the daily grind, giving you time and space to sit back and let the world flow gently by.

In Funabashi, there is such a place: Funabashi Houten no Yu (FHY). It is situated only a short walk from Funabashi Houten station and is a perfect place for alleviating the stresses of urban living.

Fossilized Amphibian Artwork

FHY has a decent selection of baths and has a particularly nice outside area where you can experience many different relaxation spots. I went on Sunday, which was, unsurprisingly, very crowded. Even some of the smaller baths had 7 or 8 people in them. This was OK though as bathers tended to rotate quite regularly. Among the various baths there are some iron spherically-shaped tubs called goemonburo (named after a Robin Hood style outlaw who was boiled to death for his exploits), a roofless flat bath with hot water only covering the surface (great for staring at the sky), a partially roofed two-tiered bath lined with rocks with rusty iron-enriched water, several lie-down jacuzzis with cold pipe headrests, and lots of chairs and benches for kyuukei (taking a rest); actually I often find sitting on one of these the most enjoyable part of the onsen experience - almost like sitting on a deckchair at the seaside!

Goemon (+ Son) in Pot

If you’re thinking of going to an onsen, and it's your first time, it's good to be aware that you will be, save for small head-covering towel, completely free of clothing. Being a foreigner, you occasionally get “curious” looks. I often catch someone staring at me if I look up suddenly. This is mainly from young kids (genuine curiosity) and some of the older guys. The looks can feel a little charged but you do get positive vibes from time to time. I’ve chatted with other bathers at onsens before – not always the best place for it but nice to know you’re not completely unwelcome.

Outside (Not FHY, but you get the picture)

After an hour and a half of outside bathing, steam room, jacuzzi, sauna and cold bath, and a good scrub down at your own personal sit down shower, you will feel like you've had a pretty decent session. After your bath, you can visit the restaurant serving reasonable quality food, and you can grab a beer too. I just went for a small bottle of milk for ¥100 from the vending machine in the locker room, which refreshes like nothing else.

Kyuukei

There are separate male and female resting areas outside the changing rooms, places where you can get a personal massage (a little expensive) or use a massage chair or foot massage (¥100 for 10 minutes), and an area where you can sit and relax and grab a few ice cold glasses of water if you’re waiting for someone.

The lighting and the music here are very calming and there are simple art works and plants scattered around the place, adding to the peaceful ambiance. From the moment you walk through the door until the moment you leave it is a very relaxing experience. If you go there at certain times you can find it pretty empty (mornings and afternoons on week days are your best bet). I had the place practically all to myself once. Was probably the most relaxed I've ever felt in Japan.

Funabashi Houten no Yu

5 minutes walk from Funabashi Houten (JR) station

船橋法典駅（千葉）

Wiki: http://tinyurl.com/bmjmekz (Japanese)

Mon-Friday: ¥700 (adults)

Weekends: ¥750

http://goo.gl/maps/tGWC

Strange Bar

2012-06-05T22:41:00.003-07:00

If you’ve ever been to or have lived in Japan you probably have come across a fair bit of quirkiness on your travels. I’ve found this to be true for some of the bars and restaurants I’ve visited over the years. One such place exists in Motoyawata and is well worth a visit if you are either a connoisseur of fine beers or a fan of the unusual.

Front of Strange

The bar in question: Orange Corn (おれんじＣｏｒｎ). If you thought that name was puzzling enough, when you discover that it goes by the more mysterious moniker of Strange Bar, you’re well on the way to bafflement.

Now, I have been to some quite ‘interesting’ places while living in Japan, for example a cosplay joint that, well, is designed like the Joint - you sit in a cell, handcuffed (if you choose), while served by armed female prison guards. And then there was the Japanese, Indian curry shop where, after hanging your coats up on fake finger hooks, they bring you the menu on a miniature globe and then discard the order entirely to bring you something of their own choosing…while singing karaoke. Strange indeed. Anyway, before this all starts getting a bit too weird, I’d like to point out that Strange Bar is really not all that strange. It’s a little out there, yes, but not in a bad way.

First, it has the most amazing range of beers. About 100 types in total are always at hand, but this increases to 120-130 when the owner has been on his travels and has picked out the cream of the best beers from the countries he's visited. The majority of beers served are foreign; Belgian beers mostly, then American and German, but there is also a great selection of Japanese beers. I tend to go for the German and Belgian beers, though if you really dig deep, you can find a beer perfectly suited to your taste.

There’s the über-strong (8.5%) import Doppelsticke from Dusseldorf, Scottish Traquiar beer from a brewery established in the 18^th century, and a Lenny Bruce memorial beer named He’Brew R.I.P.A to name but a few. The beer I’m trying for you today* is Kapuziner Weisbier from the Kulmbacher brewery in northern Bayern. As I’m sipping away, the Master explains a bit about the origin and the popularity of the beer. The explanation is all in Japanese, but I get the drift. Price: 700yen for a 500ml can; actually the prices here are very reasonable compared to other places that charge exorbitant prices for foreign tipple.

The quirkiness in the bar comes from the multitude of puzzles and games that occupy the counter, the selection of cheesy 80s music in the background, the Budweiser bandana clad Master (Hiraiwa-san), who hovers patiently, eager to serve you blocks of quality cheese on plates of lettuce or giant asparagus shoots sprinkled with katsuobushi (dried fish flakes), and the self-service from large refrigerators packed with all kinds of special brews.

Help Yourself

One thing Strange does is avoid the drag of gassy, chemically tasting draft beers you get all too often in your average bars. I have, on the odd occasion, in the middle of a drinking session, found myself unable to finish my pint. It gets too sickly by the end. Not so, however, when you’re supping on a quality German brew like Paulaner or Bitburger, or a Stella or Hoegaarden from Belgium.

This is only a small bar but it’s very cosy. There are usually a few people in there sitting at the bar chatting to the Master or chilling with friends. I often end up at Strange with the other contributor to this blog. It’s a real treat that you can go somewhere after normal hours (it’s open until at least 2am) to drink this quality of beer. The Master’s encyclopedic knowledge of his stock is also a massive draw for us, as it’s a comfort to know that beer will be chosen by him very accurately for your particular taste.

Beer Maps

There’s a decent food menu too, including a variety of dishes such German sausage, omelets, and pasta. You can also order something lighter like a salad or a variety of snacks (including packets of crisps), but you get something with the beer anyway so this is usually enough.

Whenever I get the chance to return to the UK, I often end up in a country pub drinking quality ale while chatting to my friends about this crazy old world. Even though there are a fair share of British style pubs in Japan, thus far, Strange has come the closest to offering this experience. It’s certainly a good way to educate yourself about what a decent brew is. There’s no doubt this place will help you discover quality over quantity, though there’s no guarantee that you will leave without getting a decent fill.

Library

*Oh the sacrifices I make for this blog :)

Strange Bar (おれんじＣｏｒｎ, 千葉県市川市南八幡)

3-8-12 Minamiyawata, Ichikawa, Chiba Prefecture. 047-378-3407.

On foot: 5 minutes walk from JR Motoyawata Station

http://goo.gl/maps/EA7z

In Search of the Holy Ramen

2012-05-23T07:52:00.001-07:00

One of the benefits of being a teacher in Japan is that you meet new students all the time and from that you often get recommended new places to visit. At the start of each school year, I do a self-introduction, giving basic info about myself – facts about country of origin, life in japan, likes and dislikes, that kind of thing. The things I most enjoy talking about is my favourite and least favourite foods – an easy attention getter in any language.

One of my favourite foods in Japan is miso ramen (Chinese noodle dish adopted by the Japanese in a similar way that curry was by the British). There are many different types of ramen, and I like most of them, but miso flavour has always been the dish of choice.

Scenario: Classroom full of 30 new students.

“I like ramen”, I say.

Students: “heeeeeeeeeh” (Many connotations, but basically "Oh, wow.") the standard response.

“I love miso ramen”, I continue. “Do you like miso ramen?" (leading question).

Either silence or excited muttering to each other in Japanese. “So, if you know any good ramen shops, please let me know!” It's a sure bet saying this to a room of 30 people that someone has the information I'm after.

“Hands up who likes miso ramen”, I urge.

Maybe one or two hands, even though a lot more probably do. Anyway, I get names and places. This year I had a student approach me after the lesson especially to tell me that she knew of a good miso place in Motoyawata (10 minutes from my apartment). Great! After getting a bit excited about a new place to explore, I realised that I had been there once already (often the case with ramen restaurants). But since I've started writing this blog, I thought I'd give it another go. Any excuse.

The weather was awful but I persevered. Nothing that a warm ramen can't sort out! The shop is around two minutes walk from Motoyawata JR station. Name: Gaten. Apparently this place gets so busy sometimes that you have to make reservations. Not so today though, as the weather and the timing (about 5pm) put paid to that.

As with a lot of ramen restaurants in Japan there is a system where you buy tickets from a machine as you walk in (good for getting people in and out quickly). The machine, all in Japanese, took a bit of working out as my kanji reading skills are not all that good. However, I found the miso + char siu (Chinese barbecued pork) without much bother.

So, one of those, a small bowl of rice, and a large bottle of Kirin beer (heh, go large, why not?). ¥1500 in total. A gentlemen came to collect my tickets and showed me to my seat at the back. The place was pretty empty and I could have chosen to sit in a slightly bigger area that is raised and seats around six but I went for a table for two.

The waiter brought me my oshibori (hand towel), water, and beer and I sat back and perused the joint. Nice place, quite spacious, with plenty of light and some not too intrusive J-Pop playing in the background. Also there were some pictures colored in by local kids on the walls. It gave the place a nice feeling, which is unlike some ramen restaurants that are akin to run-down greasy cafes and have little in the way of atmosphere.

The food arrived. This was a standard miso ramen with char siu pork, with egg, menma (bamboo shoots) and sweetcorn topping. I used some of the condiments – spoonful of garlic, dabble of red-hot chill sauce, and black pepper. These are perfect for some extra tang. There are other things such as shouyu (soy sauce), shijimi (dry red pepper), and white vinegar, but these are mainly used for other dishes which are plentiful on the menu here.

I requested the soup abura (fattiness) be futsu (regular). The dish came with the usual sprinkling of pork fat on the top (doesn't sound too appetizing but it really does complement it). The meat was cut thin and was a little fatty, but melted in the mouth perfectly. Combined with the rice and the beer, it went down very well. I'll definitely come here again and will bring people with me. I have been to other places in Motoyawata that have different combinations of toppings that I prefer and a slightly thicker soup and thicker meat, but this was by no means a disappointing dish.

You can pick up dedicated ramen magazines at convenience stores that review most places in your local area and I will be checking the closest one to me in search of the perfect ramen feast. In the meantime though, I'd come here again and definitely with friends so we can enjoy the experience together.

I'm seeing the student tomorrow that gave me the information about Gaten. She'll be very pleased that I give it a enthusiastic “oishiiii!” when she asks how it was.

Directions: http://tinyurl.com/7qkk3gq

A Leisurely Sunday (pt.1)

2012-05-15T21:58:00.001-07:00

In the Onitaka area, located at an approximately equal distance north of Shimosa Nakayama, Nishi-Funabashi, and Motoyawata, there is a place worth visiting when you're in the wandering mood: Shochuzan Hokekyo-ji Temple.

Five-Storey Pagoda

This is the famous temple where the influential monk Nichiren Daishonin resided in 1265 – his teachings are one of the fundamentals of Buddhist religion still influencing Japanese society today. Many of his original scriptures are still housed there, including the "Conversation Between a Sage and an Unenlightened Man", which contains the Zen teachings of 'the finger pointing to the moon', and after an hour or so there you can sense the “heavenly glory” all around you.

This is where I used to escape for some peace and quiet when I first came to Japan, away from all the people and the concrete that can sometimes get a little oppressive. In the UK, I had attended some Buddhist meditation classes and my teacher, a beautifully radiant woman named Vicky, had predicted I'd live in Japan and visit such a place. I'm not superstitious or religious, but she got it spot on, and this temple became a wonderful retreat for me in my first few years living here.

Sandals Drying on Temple Gate

The temple is a perfect place to clear your mind. The walk up the partially steep hill is well worth it, as you pass many atmospheric, small businesses and shops on the way, ranging from yakitoriyas (selling various grilled chicken parts on sticks) and family run izakayas (a traditional Japanese restaurant and drinking establishment), green tea shops, souvenir shops and the like, and a very nice stop off point, which is a small garden with sheltered seating area where you can sit back and listen to the birds tweeting playfully at the placid temple cats. It feels like this garden is placed perfectly halfway up the hill. This is no fluke. Someone's actually thought this through.

You quickly find yourself at the top of the hill and at the San Mon (temple gate). This grand entrance, staring down at you the with menace and welcome at the same time, is a sight to behold. The two large demonic guards each side of the gate leave you a little in awe, and it's hard not to get the feeling that you won't be bumping into any bad spirits once you cross the threshold. Comforting.

San Mon (Temple Gate)

The walk down to the main area is equally as nice. The downward slope really does throw you into a bit of a time warp. I brought some friends down here just after dusk one time. There is a Kendo school off to one of the sides. Seeing that there, tucked away, brought up all sorts of imagery – secretive, exclusive dojo with a handful of picked students attaining mastery of this ancient art! Even if you're not into that kind of thing, it certainly adds to the atmosphere.

Walkway Down to Main Area

Seating Outside Cafe

There are some beautiful reds and greens in this area at the moment (even after the cheery blossom season, there's still plenty to enjoy). While you're in the temple there are a few things that you can experience. My favourite is a quick prayer to the medium size but utterly serene and majestic seated Buddha. It's hard not to get a sense of wonder and peace from this beautiful statue. A brief stop and bow usually do.

Statue of Buddha

Then it's off to get smoked. There are the usual temple routines of Joukorou (smoke purification), Chozuba (water purification), and Kane (money toss, bell ring, clap, and prayer) at the Daido (Main ceremonial building). Even for non-religious people, it's fun to participate in all these rituals. I like that about Buddhism - it's not that there aren't any rules, just that you can take it completely in your stride.

Daido (Great Hall)

What I find really amazing though is the chanting of the Sutras by the temple monks. If you haven't heard this, you really must try to catch it. I engaged with it immediately today. You can actually feel the vibrations in the air and then traveling around inside you. I can only imagine what it is like for them sitting there doing it. The energy must be amazing.

1000 Sutras

On the way out there a few places you can stop at. There is a coffee shop called Tom's, who do a very nice cup of coffee with a slice of cheesecake for ¥800. It's small, but comfortable. Politik by Coldplay was playing when I went in, which was quite a significant song for me when I first came to Japan and when I used to come to this temple - probably just a coincidence but the timing couldn't have been better. Alternatively, there are some small traditional Japanese cafes and shops by the entrance where on a nice day you can sit outside and enjoy the atmosphere of the temple while sipping a beer or a soft drink.

Visiting the temple today made it a perfect Sunday. But I would seriously recommend going here if you want to find that extra special wind-down spot any day of the week.

Address:

2-10-1 Nakayama Ichikawa-shi, Chiba-ken. 〒272-0813

Tel: 047-334-3433

Web site: http://www.hokekyoji.com/ (Japanese only)

Directions:

JR Sobu-sen Shimousa Nakayama-station - 15 minutes on foot.

Keisei Nakayama-station - 5 minutes on foot.

Map: http://tinyurl.com/7vpr2j7

Best Curry In Japan

2012-05-12T00:07:00.000-07:00

Hello, and welcome to a new blog: Ichikawa & Funabashi Explored

So here we go!

I've always loved curry. My father used to get them free when unwitting Indian restaurant owners challenged him to eat their hottest ones. Vindaloo, Phall, you name it. This got passed down to me and it has always been a red hot love affair, despite the odd broken heart.

I have been searching for immense curry experiences ever since living in Japan. The standard 'soup curry' usually hits a spot, though I think most Nepali, Indian and Pakistani restaurants opt for this over their own more traditional recipes, but more on that later.

After trying literally hundreds of different places, I think I may have found the best curry in the Ichikawa and Funabashi area, and, as far as I've experienced, in Japan. Now, this is from my own perspective, and it's a big claim, but I'll share this experience with you knowing that if you love curry as much as I do, you will be thrilled that such a place exists.

Sapna Indian Restaurant, Motoyawata

I visited this amazing Indian curry restaurant three days ago. It wasn't just the food that was amazing either, the interior, the music, the service were all great too. If you live in the Ichikawa or Funabashi area, you're in for a treat.

The restaurant is situated about 4 minutes on foot from Motoyawata station. It feels like it's just the right distance that it's neither too exposed or too hidden. I went around 5pm so there was pretty much a whole restaurant to choose from. I decided to sit in the back room, as there were a couple of people in the main bit. Nothing to disturb my experience.

I was served by a Japanese gentleman, who waited around to take my order, asking the usual, “You can read?” (as I read the menu) and “Where from?” questions. I often get into pre- or mid-meal conversations when I eat at curry restaurants here, and especially after the 2^nd or 3^rd visit, but I wasn't that bothered by it this time. Though I've been in situations where the waiters seem to feel obliged to have long chats with me during meals when they really shouldn't feel the need to, and once I was even asked to fill out some bank forms for someone while I was chowing down. Anyway, I hoped I wouldn't be asked to complete any paperwork this time around.

Main area

I ordered Chicken Masala, rice (the waiter told me to order half as the rest would be very filling), naan, and a beer. There was some really nice jazz playing in the background, some standard female vocals over really mellow accompaniment. The windows were open and there was a lovely breeze. The outside was quiet even though there are semi-busy roads running parallel to both of the restaurant's entrances.

I looked around the room and sipped my beer. Then I was visited by Mr.Khan. I had known Mr.Khan from a few years back when he was working at this shop's sister restaurant in Ichikawa. Really, really nice guy. We chatted a bit and caught up. Then the food came.

Oh. My. God.

Best curry in Ichikawa (And probably Japan :))

Simply the best curry since coming to Japan 10 years ago. I couldn't quite believe how amazing it was. And spicy too. I think the best thing about it was that it was really similar to the curries you get at the best restaurants in the UK (I lived next to the Curry Mile in Manchester for 4 years). I've been looking for a curry like this for so long. I asked Mr.Khan about it and he explained that it was his own recipe and that it was made from scratch with all the essential herbs and spices.

It had all the makings of a homemade curry and felt it had been made with a lot of love, care and attention. We chatted about other curries you get in Japan and both agreed that the Japanese taste is for soup curry that doesn't pack much of a punch. This was a first for me in here. It felt like I was sitting in my local Indian restaurant in England, except there was no fear of having your meal ruined by the potential threat of violence.

Back room - quiet and spacious

I told Mr.Khan about my preferences for paratha, Basmati rice, and roti and he said that all could be arranged if we brought around 15 people down on a night with a bit of notice. He really is one of the loveliest people I've chatted to while dying to stuff my mouth full of Chicken Masala!

Mr.Khan popped back to give me his card. I finished up. I asked what the music was and had a couple of photos with the chefs before I left.

One down, many to go

The bill was a very reasonable ¥2000. The last thing I said as I left was “That has really warmed my heart”, as tears ran down my face in celebration of this spicy delight. Was amazingly hot; my father would be proud.

Sapna Indian Restaurant
千葉県市川市南八幡３丁目６－１７
272-0023, Japan
+81 47-393-5115
sapna.web.fc2.com