IDEAS IN FOOD

Get to the Point

2012-02-15T11:31:05-05:00

This is the point cut of the brisket which we have separated from the flat and trimmed to remove surface fat and connective tissue. For me, this is the best part of the brisket. Unfortunately, it leaves a lot on the cutting room floor. I needed to make the end result of highlighting the point special, worth the effort involved, and find a way to utilize all of the meat without wasting the majority of the brisket. We took the fat and smoked it, then rendered it with onions to make a beef fat schmaltz. The cracklings and onions were pressure cooked with water, red wine, onion, sun dried tomato and kombu. The flat portion of the brisket was ground into burger meat, a variation on our butter burgers. So now we have a tremendous stock, an extrememly flavorful tallow, delicious burgers and a beautiful piece of meat to cook. TIme get to the point.

Years Past:

February 15, 2011

February 15, 2010

February 15, 2009

February 15, 2008

February 15, 2007

February 15, 2006

February 15, 2005

Wild Fermentation

2012-02-14T10:04:15-05:00

This week we are talking about Wild Fermentation by Sandor Ellix Katz. It's no secret that we're fans of fermentation. Several chapters in our book were devoted to the subject and there there is always something new to learn about. Fermentation, in its various forms seems to be found in the food of every culture on earth. It changes ingredients and makes them more digestible and in many cases, more delicious. So when we stumbled across this great book devoted to the subject we knew we had to pick it up.

Many of the most informative fermentation books out there are textbooks, which are heavy on information but not very readable or approachable. This book is everything a cook needs it to be. The beginning discusses the history and culture of fermentation and touches on the health benefits of eating fermented foods. Then it gets down to the practical aspects of making fermented foods. The recipe and technique chapters are broken down by the type of fermentation involved. It begins with vegetable ferments. These are the pickles that are most familiar to the home cook. We all make them in some form or another, even if it's just lightly pickling summer vegetables in a vinaigrette for a few hours. Then it moves on to beans. Beans? Actually it is mainly a chapter on miso, making your own and using it in recipes. From there we move through dairy, breads, grain porridges and beverages, wine, beer and vinegar. There is more than enough information and basic recipes to get you started in your own kitchen and once you've begun, the possibilities are endless.

This week we are giving away one copy of Wild Fermentation by Sandor Ellix Katz to one of our readers. To enter to win please leave a comment telling us about one of your favorite fermented foods. One entry per person please. Comments are moderated and will not appear immediately. Winner will be chosen on Friday, February 17, 2012 at 9am EST.

Years Past

February 14, 2011

February 14, 2010

February 14, 2009

February 14, 2008

February 14, 2007

February 14, 2007 (2)

February 14, 2006

February 14, 2005

Skin Deep

2012-02-13T20:10:56-05:00

We have explored dehydrating cucumber slices as well as slices of a variety of other gourds. The flavors concentrate and the texture becomes leathery and chewy. When we puree these semi-dried fruits we end up with an incredibly flavorful expression of the fruit. So we figured if the slices worked well, drying the whole thing would be better.

Well, first of all drying whole cucumbers takes time. Second of all drying whole cucumbers smells more like rotting cucumbers. If you can get past these first two obstacles you end up with a long, leathery and limp cucumber which looks weeks past its prime. Yet, the leathery, wrinkled skin is appealing. It is a texture and color we have not worked with and it draws us in. The flesh of the dried cucumber is less than thrilling, really a concentrated bitter pulp. So, with optimism we tried the skin. It seems we need more optimism because the skin is bitter and rather off putting. It is something we want to like, tasting again and again, hoping for an improvement and knowing full well we are not going to get it. Still, this initial exploration shows promise. I think a better cucumber may provide results worth smiling about. And if the cucumber fails then their is the zucchini and if not the zucchini well... Ideas are only skin deep, it is when you put them into practice that you can discover their potential.

Years Past

February 13, 2011

February 13, 2010

February 13, 2009

February 13, 2008

February 13, 2008 (2)

February 13, 2007

February 13, 2006

February 13, 2005

February 13, 2005 (2)

Cilantro Butterflies

2012-02-12T20:23:35-05:00

We really enjoy the flavor and texture of cilantro leaves and stems. The stem adds crunch and juiciness and the leaves add a silky delivery of the cilantro. In order to share this dual pleasure we have come to trim the middle of the cilantro stem. It has two side leaves on it and when trimmed it roughly resembles a butterfly. Now we can deliver the flavors and textures of leaves and stems in one shot.

Years Past:

February 12, 2011

February 12, 2010

February 12, 2009

February 12, 2008

February 12, 2007

February 12, 2006

February 12, 2005

Burnt Lemon Marmalade

2012-02-11T20:25:23-05:00

The plan was a Meyer lemon marmalade. The result was a burnt Meyer lemon marmalade. Happy accidents still happen, it's being open to them and willing to work with them as they occur that is essential.

Years Past

February 11, 2011

February 11, 2010

February 11, 2009

February 11, 2008

February 11, 2007

February 11, 2007 (2)

February 11, 2006

February 11, 2005

Sourdough and Strawberries

2012-02-10T19:57:01-05:00

We have taken a new look at our sourdough ice cream and rebuilt it from the sourdough up. We are currently exploring uses and applications for it. While we noodle around with the new model we are enjoying taking it for test rides. Yesterday, or was it the day before, time and space are blurring, we ate it with strawberry preserves and cake crumb streusel. Not a bad way to ponder the evolution of a kitchen staple.

Years Past

February 10, 2011

February 10, 2010

February 10, 2009

February 10, 2008

February 10, 2008 (2)

February 10, 2007

February 10, 2006

February10, 2005

Chili and Cornbread Waffles

2012-02-09T21:04:26-05:00

Step One:

Step Two:

Step Three:

And there was sour ceam too. In case people needed a little respite from the heat. It's every bit as good as you think it was. Try this at home and you won't be sorry.

Years Past

February 9, 2008 (2)

February 9, 2007

February 9, 2006

February 9, 2005

Wednesday is

2012-02-08T09:46:11-05:00

...book day. At least this week. We are facing a couple of challenges here in the kitchen. Amazing how one email can throw off an entire day, I'm sure you've all been there. The book we should be giving away this week is The Power of Positive Thinking by Dr. Norman Vincent Peale, not because we've actually read it but because it's probably what we should be reading at the moment. But hell if we're going to give in to a few obstacles in our path. Competition makes us competitive and roadblocks simply force us to be more creative. This is never a bad thing. Today we're shaking off the negative mojo on our own and moving on to bigger and better things.

Some of the best chefs and entrpreneurs out there got to the top of their game simply by doing things differently. There's a lot of commonly held wisdom that isn't always correct and the real trail blazers have never been afraid to cut a path straight through uncharted territory just to see what would happen. David Burke is one of those chefs. Alex worked for him way back in the day. Back then The Park Avenue Cafe was, in his words, a crazy busy hard core kitchen. If you were willing to work hard and had a real passion for food there was a lot to learn and you could find mentors willing to teach you but only if you were willing to put in the time and effort to prove that you really wanted to learn. There were no easy work days or short shifts. It was sink or swim, survival of the fittest, but if you had the stamina and the desire there was a lot to be taken in.

Today we are giving away Cooking With David Burke of The Park Avenue Cafe. This is an older book that has weathered the test of time. Burke has a sense of whimsy that has never deserted him. He is known for over the top presentations and big flavors. The book is full of building blocks recipes and components that marry beautifully with a variety of dishes even though they are set into his creations for the recipes. There are flavored oils, pickling liquids, batters and brines and a bird's eye view into the mind of the chef, with thoughts on how to build dishes and why layering flavors and textures into beautiful creations is such an important part of his cuisine. And the dessert section is full of wonderful things. All in all it's a book you want to have in your personal library. As you read through the pages you will see countless ideas and techniques that are now commonplace but were groundbreaking at the time. Of course David Burke is still a chef at large and there are new discoveries to be found in his kitchens today.

This week we are giving away one copy of Cooking With David Burke At The Park Avenue Cafe by David Burke and Carmen Reingold. To enter to win please a comment telling us about the most creative and enjoyable meal you've ever experienced. One entry per person please, comments are moderated and will not appear immediately. Winner will berandomly picked on Friday, February 10, 2012 at 9am EST. This giveaway is now closed. The winner has been notified via email. Thanks for all your great comments.

Years Past:

February 8, 2005