IDEAS IN FOOD

Plan Q

2009-07-11T11:42:37-04:00

It is not often that Plan Q is needed. It is even less often that a Plan Q exists in a pe-conceived form. In our world, there are many variables involved in creating a meal. Realizing these variables exist and planning for them are two separate things. In developing dishes the underlying theme is always delicious. In planning out a dish there is always the underlying assumption that we can execute our vision. Some days this works out better than others.

In planning a dinner we start with what is available and beautiful. Procuring the ingredients and planning the menu are intertwined actions. You may start with one or the other, but the project is all just supposition until you have the ingredients in hand. Once they make there way back to the kitchen we evaluate the bounty. The elements before us are often quite different from what was on the shopping list. Here is where it gets interesting. Here is also where a willingness to drink the Kool-Aid is essential. We are often asked why we do not send out menus for dinners ahead of time? The easy answer is because ingredients change. If you commit to x,y and z and then go shopping and see l,m,n,o and p are much better the diner and cook both get short changed. The tougher part of that answer is that sometimes user error occurs and things change on the fly. The trick is for the diner to be completely unaware that these last minute changes were a hat trick of epic proportions.

Working in someone else's kitchen, no matter how well stocked, can be challenging. The container that you thought was Gellan may turn out to be xanthan gum. The water may be different, causing your standard hydrocolloid ratios to have unusual results. Extrapolating recipes may not work if you forget that the egg yolks in the original were there for a reason. Some cheeses may be more ripe than others causing a sponge to become a burrata. Things happen for a reason. A good chef will be able to produce no matter how many curveballs come their way. Plan Q is based on quick reflexes and the ability to change focus in an instant. As important as good knife skills and a well seasoned palate, flexibility is a culinary skill to be cultivated as it will save your butt more times than a handy deep fryer.

Plan Q: the results.

Celery Root Bolognese

2009-07-10T15:04:48-04:00

Celery Root Bolognese

260g celery
260g carrot
380g onion
400g celery root
90g garlic
35g jalapeno
90g olive oil
10g salt
290g red wine
75g soy sauce
1000g canned plum tomatoes
350g heavy cream

In a food processor mince the celery, carrot, onion, celery root, garlic and jalapeno. The vegetables should be finely minced and not a paste. Heat the olive oil in a large pan. When the oil is hot add the vegetables. Cook the vegetables until they release their water and begin to brown. Add the salt and continue to stir the vegetables allowing them to cook until a dark golden brown. When the vegetables are evenly browned add the red wine. Cook the wine until it is almost evaporated. Add the soy sauce and the tomatoes. Turn the heat down and cook the mixture slowly. As the mixture cooks, stir occasionally and break up the plum tomatoes. When the mixture cooks down and the tomato liquid is evaporated by half add the heavy cream. Continue to cook the mixture until the color of the base darkens again and half the volume of cream evaporates. Let the mixture cool and reserve.

Potato Chip Pasta Dough

2009-07-08T19:33:17-04:00

What will you make with this dough?

Potato Chip Pasta Dough

400g flour
100g dark roasted potato chip flour (potato flakes cooked for 20 minutes at 350, then ground into a flour)
300g whole egg
75g egg yolk
8g salt

Combine the dry ingredients in a bowl and whisk them together. Combine the wet ingredients in a separate bowl and whisk them together. Pour the egg mixture into the flour and slowly mix them together, working from the center of the bowl outward. Once you have a cohesive dough, turn it out of the bowl and knead it, adding more flour as necessary until the dough is silky and dry. Place into a vacuum bag and vacuum seal and let rest for at least ten minutes before rolling out your pasta.

Aerated Brie

2009-07-07T08:56:05-04:00

Our latest article is up on Popular Science. It explains how we use a whipped cream machine and a couple of hydrocolloids to aerate brie cheese. The technique can be extrapolated for use with other ingredients and the equipment is relatively inexpensive and low tech. Check it out and let us know what you think.

Cultivating Weeds

2009-07-06T22:04:56-04:00

Weeds are often unwanted, worrisome pests. However, when they are edible, plentiful and easily grown perhaps they are not the weeds we thought they were, rather just underutilized ingredients. Thanks to Scott and Joe, my weeding list just got a bit shorter.

Just picked oxalis.

Potato Chip Agnolotti

2009-07-05T20:48:51-04:00

Everything tastes better with potato chips. The potato chip dough is the same one we used for our noodles. The key is the roasted potato flakes as the base. The filling is a simple ricotta and parmesan blend.

The questions now begin with what to pair with these tasty bites?

Grilled Pig

2009-07-04T19:38:43-04:00

Happy 4th of July!!!
A+A+a

Strawberry Bolognese

2009-07-03T21:35:24-04:00

How far is a tomato from a strawberry? How different is sugar and salt? This is a cheese course: ricotta and jasmine gnudi with strawberry bolognese, salad burnet and olive zest.