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Styleforum Discussions I Passaggio Cravatte Q&A

noreply@blogger.com (Image Granted) — Fri, 25 May 2012 05:58:47 PDT

Gianni Cerutti is a passionate Italian craftsman using his talents to create handmade seven-fold ties in the heart of his home country. Styleforum recently featured Sette Neckwear in our D.C. Shopping Guide, and after talking with them for the SF10 event, they are highly recommended. However, options are among man’s best friends. Enter Passaggio Cravatte. We spoke with owner Mr. Gianni Cerutti. Mr. Cerutti uses ancient/vintage silks, cashmeres, and wools to create his masterpieces.

Image Granted: Tell us about Passaggio Cravatte. What is the history and background of the company?

Gianni Cerutti: Passaggio Cravatte was established in 2010 because of dissatisfaction, and passion, of myself and Marta Passaggio.

Why dissatisfaction? In Italy we saw the same old ties. With the usual drawings, the usual models, and the usual quality. In fact, almost all now offer a commercial-grade product. Today 90% of the ties that exist in Italy are standardized, readymade, not to measure. We, however, we wanted to create a more exclusive product according to Neapolitan tradition. In fact I think I can say that we are the only ones in Italy to do only custom neckties and accessories. We have nothing readymade. Our ties are cut and made one by one by seamstresses who worked in the most prestigious fashion houses of the city.

Why passion? The tie for us is life. Ties for us is not work but fun—a real passion. We put our heart in. We demand the best of ourselves to pass on to customers. And only with passion we can pamper our clients. In fact, ours is not a company but a family. Customers are our best relatives.

IG: What types of fabrics do you use and where do you source them? Why these fabrics and not others?

GC: For us the fabrics are another distinctive feature. Our silks are 90% original vintage. Some have even 50 or 60 years their shoulders. They are really unique pieces. They are all hand printed. Then we also have modern fabrics, but always with vintage designs. For example, we have reproduced the lines of an English archive of 1930-1940. Another fabric that we use is the fancy silk gauze, cashmere, and wool from Biella, always vintage. We buy only the best fabrics on the market. Buy in Como and England. And we do not want to save on fabric. We only want the best for our customers.

IG: What are the hallmarks of a PC piece? What makes them different from any other Italian seven-fold?

GC: What makes our ties are unique models. Four are the most exclusive. In addition to the traditional ties and four-folds, we do seven-folds—the old unlined, with or without lining all done by hand. This is a very particular model because it dates back to the early 1900s. Also, the classic in a single piece of silk, the four-folds in a single piece of silk, and the seven-folds in a single piece of silk.

These last three models, they do not make them virtually at all anymore. Today all the world’s neckties are made from two or three pieces of silk while these are cut in a single piece of silk. They are the Ferrari of ties, the most prestigious. To make this model requires as a great technical ability and the suitable luxury fabrics. Because if one misses the cut, it just throws his tie. All our ties can be lined, or unlined.

The other feature is that we make everything by hand. And in fact, customers who choose the model, the internal measures, opening of the folds, color rear of the stitching and whether or not to embroider your initials or your family crest. In addition to the ties we make tailored bow ties, pocket squares, ascots, and cummerbunds.

IG: Where are your current points of distribution? What are your plans for distribution in the future?

GC: Our home and studio is located in Robbio, near Milan and Malpensa airport, on a Dei Mille 10. Then we are often in Naples where we have our own atelier. Many customers will meet in Naples or Milan. We are not an industry so much as a family-run business. We do not like to have a shop, because we see it as too commercial. We are real craftsmen. And we want to remain craftsmen. We go where the customers are.

To make an appointment just send an e-mail to info@passaggiocravatte.com. We will respond quickly and try to make an appointment in Italy. In addition, for those who want to but live far away, we can send an email with pictures of our fabrics in high definition. Then we will decide together how to make the tie. And within a month we send the tie.

We provide ties to all those who are lovers of quality. For example, we provide a service tailored to some very exclusive shops.

IG: Do you think there is too much emphasis on “Made in Italy”? If so, why? What percentage of your product is made in Italy?

GC: Our product is all done by hand and 100% in Naples. We are craftsmen and artisans and want to stay that way. We care about quality and not quantity. “Made in Italy” does not mean what it once did. Today they all say “Made in Italy” and then they do abroad. It’s just a label now. So when you go to buy a product should always be careful! My advice is to go beyond the brand and label. We must look at the quality.

IG: Who is your current customer? What draws him to your product?

GC: Our client is passionate about the extent and quality. Our style is dandy. And those who turn to us do so because they cannot find what we have from anyone else. From the models, to the fabric, to the made-to-measure service. Today we have customers around the world. From pure dandies to politicians to industrialists.

IG: What knot do you recommend using for the maximum versatility and utmost style for your ties?

GC: The knot is a very personal choice. I prefer a classic single or double.

IG: Is there anything else you’d like the Styleforum audience to know about PC?

GC: I want to congratulate Styleforum for 10 years of life. I think it’s the most important forum in the world of men’s style. Frequently, you can find obscure knowledge on Styleforum. It is an honor for us to do this interview.

Introducing | Henry Carter Neckwear & Accessories

noreply@blogger.com (Image Granted) — Sat, 26 May 2012 18:08:56 PDT

We've been expanding our reach to find retailers offering high quality products for the man looking to upgrade the staples in his closet. Many of the retailers are in Italy or the UK. Enter Henry Carter from Australia. Henry Carter is a small online boutique offering neckties, scarves, and socks owned and operated by Jason Segrott. We were fortunate enough to try some of Jason's product, but even more fortunate to get a look into the brands short history and its plans for the future.

Jason started the business, which is named after his grandfather last year after getting frustrated that the so called high end stores in Australia were charging such premium prices for goods that looked nice, but are of substandard quality made en masse in cheap labor factories.

Jason set out to create ties that he would wear, at a reasonable price point for the quality, but without compromising on production quality at all. He quickly added a few other products, and now carry the ties, all handmade in Naples, scarves in pure Cashmere made in Scotland and Pantherella socks made in England. He hasn't snubbed made in China/Asia for any reason in particular, because he feels there are some good products coming out of these regions but they're not the best products, and that's not good enough for the brand.

The shop is headed into its second season in August and there is some great stuff in the works in the next 2-3 months including knit ties (including a lovely grey cashmere knit), a couple of shirts also made in Italy which he plans to expand on in coming seasons and the main line of ties will be all 7 folds in more fabrics stocked with lower quantities. Some as low as 5 units in order to a) release more designs and b) keep an element of exclusivity to the range. They will be doing quite a few 7 folds that will be un-lined and un-tipped with hand rolled edges at around $109.95, which is such an amazing price for ties of that caliber. Personally we're excited to see what is to come from down under.

Silk 7 Fold Navy Regimental Stripe Tie

Silk 7 Fold Brown Floral Tie

Menswear Dialogue Series | Ask Andy About Clothes

noreply@blogger.com (Image Granted) — Mon, 21 May 2012 05:23:43 PDT

This week in our menswear dialogue series we speak to Andy Gilchrist of Ask Andy About Clothes. Andy probably knows more about clothing than any one man on the planet. After all he did write the book on the matter. We discuss the past, present and future of online style forums with Andy. If you're into lurking around on chat forums, then you'll want to hear what Andy has to say.

1. What is your title/occupation/trade?

I’m the creator of the most popular website for men’s clothing advice in the world and the author of The Encyclopedia of Men’s Clothes.

The website started August of 2001 as a vehicle to sell the book, The Encyclopedia of Men’s Clothing. The Forum was added later and immediately took off driving traffic to the website.

The Ask Andy site (devoted to men's clothes -- what to wear, how to properly wear it, and the history of why we wear what we do) is averaging daily:

Unique Visits: 29,156
Page views: 393,741
Hits: 1,378,772

The Forums have over 59,000 members plus 81,000 threads and over 1,000,000 posts, plus hundreds of thousand readers who have not officially registered.

2. Is there a rivalry between the online style forums? There are several out there but it seems that AAA and Styleforum are the two biggest and brightest. SF just celebrated its 10 year anniversary and although AAA has more members, more traffic, and is a year older it seems that SF is the media darling and gets the lion share of attention. Is this a true or perceived reality? How so?

Since I’m on the inside here... SF has a more varied membership – there is a segment that may be younger and interested in street clothes, sneakers and club dressing. The AskAndy Members are more into classic clothes including Trad.

3. Most business evolve over time. How has the forum and your role within it changed over the years? Where will the forum be 5 years from now? What are your plans for strategic growth and/or expansion?

We’re totally re-designing the website. Forums will exist for a long time if not forever – especially men’s fashion forums. It’s doesn’t seem socially acceptable for men to talk to other men about fashion. Men are culturally conditioned not to care about their appearance. But smart gentlemen realize that your image makes a huge difference in how others (ladies, your boss, the airline boarding staff, waiters, etc.) treat you. And with a Forum you can anonymously discuss the finer points of a pocket square with other gentlemen.

4. How can a clothing novice avoid the intimidated factor of the forum? Some of these guys are the best dressers in the world and take clothing to another level. What would you suggest the best path of action be for a newcomer to your forum?

Most of the members at AskAndy are well aware of this and really try to treat the newbie with respect even if he’s asking “What are cuff links?” (true post!)

Introducing | Todd Shelton Made in USA

noreply@blogger.com (Image Granted) — Fri, 18 May 2012 05:10:29 PDT

In this day and age of mass manufacturing and over production overseas, its becoming increasingly more difficult to find retailers creating and selling their product in the US. Enter Todd Shelton. Todd Shelton has been creating, designing, and manufacturing their menswear apparel in the US since 2002. Located in New Jersey (Gasp! Someone actually making clothes outside of NYC) and using shirt fabrics from Italy, Japanese Selvedge denim and manufacturing in Jersey, Ohio, California, and NYC; Todd Shelton holds true to its mission. They offer a range of basics in shirts, jeans, pants, t-shirts, and vests and with free returns and exchanges they won't put you in the poor house either. Todd was kind enough to introduce us to his brand with a few products. We're fans of the button down and the vest. If you're looking for staples made here at home, then check out Mr. Shelton.

Mortimer Shirt in button down collar

Selvedge dark wash jean in Japaense denim

Tweed Vest with double side zip

Menswear Dialogue Series | Frank Clegg Leather Craftsman

noreply@blogger.com (Image Granted) — Mon, 14 May 2012 16:39:36 PDT

Today our menswear dialogue series continues with a look into the world of a leather craftsman Frank Clegg. Frank has maintained a long tenure at Frank Clegg Leatherworks and creates some of the best leather products in the country, and they're actually made in the country. The depth and breadth of Frank's product knowledge and expertise is a personal treat and its our pleasure to bring it to you.

"To be better, you have to be different."

1. What is your title/occupation/trade?

Designer-craftsman. Men's and women's leather goods manufacturer.

Frank Clegg

2. What about leather makes it so great? There are many other materials that can be used in briefcases, bags and such but some men will only carry leather. As a leather craftsman what is your stance on the material?

As with any product that has been in our lives as long as leather, and which at one time was the only material for certain products, leather brings with it a heritage that the product has rightly earned. Leather to me is much like wood. A beautiful solid cherry table and chairs in its natural color possesses a certain quality that cannot be duplicated by any substitute material.

For this reason, this becomes the standard for the item. As we make changes to this product, such as plywood with a cherry face and edging we immediately lose the details that the original possessed. This said, once I step away from the natural leathers that I have always used, my preference for leather diminishes. If I were given the choice between an inferior leather bag or a canvas bag, my choice would be the canvas bag. But, the quality leather bag would be my first choice. The bags that most people love are usually the older vegetable tanned type that over the years have so much character, and this is only possible with naturally created leathers that have burnished with time, no different than an antique mahogany side table.

Shrunken Leather Messenger Bag

3. If you're a leather connoisseur then you're familiar with the tanning process. However, most men aren't leather connoisseur's. Can you explain the process? Why is it important? Is one method better than the other?

The tanning process changes the fibers in the hide by takings these dying fibers and preventing them from decaying. Although there are many tanning techniques, such as chrome tanned, brain tanned, wet white, vegetable tanned, urine tanned, etc., there are two popular tannages, chrome tanned and vegetable tanned. Vegetable retanned is taking a tannage like chrome tannage being used in the initial tannage, usually at the backing houses and using the vegetable tannage, when processed at the tannery.

Chrome tanned leather uses chromium in the tanning process, and yields a quality product for shoes, jackets and bags. Some of the properties that tanning leather with chromium achieves, are not able to be duplicated with other tanning processes. The strength of the leather usually makes it the choice of shoe uppers. The use of heavy metals in this tannage requires much Federally regulated treatments to the waste. Vegetable tanned leathers use a very old tanning process that has continued to this day. Although there are many wonderful chrome tanned leathers that I have worked with over the years, veg tanned leathers have always been my preference. The tannage relies on the use of tree bark. There are many different tree types used such as oak and chestnut. Each different tree type yields different characters in the leather and are often mixed to achieve Certain desired properties. Vegetable tanned leathers in the natural uncolored state, is referred to as russet. This russet is a different shade depending on the types of tree bark used.

The vegetable tanned process requires a longer period of time to complete than chrome tanned leathers. Vegetable tanned leather is superior for saddles, case goods belts, western gear. The use of fat liquor, tallow, mechanical techniques, along with dyes, will change the look and character of each tannage. My leather of choice for briefcases is what I currently use now, which is referred to as belting leather. The tannage was developed to produce a superior brief that has the character needed to develop into an heirloom. Think English saddle. For some of my other products I will use the belting, but I also developed a tumbled vegetable tanned leather with a waxed surface resulting in a softer touch. This leather can be used for handbags and luggage, as can the belting, resulting in a bag with a different feel and stand.

Another leather that we use is a shrunken leather, which also a vegetable tanned leather. This leather possesses a totally different look and feel than the belting and tumbled. The shrinking process results in a leather that looses between 30 and 40 percent of its size. What is most important for briefcases besides the leather used whether chrome tanned or vegetable tanned is the design. The handle becomes the single most important item on the brief, if the handle does not feel comfortable nothing else matters. This is one area that other materials have a tough time outperforming leather. If you like a leather product that does not develop and age, chrome tanned is probably your choice. If you want a brief that develops an old world character after years of service, veg tanned is your choice. A well crafted leather product can last your whole career. I have had the fortune to see many of the briefcases I have made 35-40 years ago still in service and being use today. The cost of a quality American made briefcase is not inexpensive, but when you consider the years of service you will receive, it becomes a true value.

American Alligator Signature Duffel

Building Your Wardrobe While Building Your Budget

noreply@blogger.com (Image Granted) — Sat, 12 May 2012 05:30:12 PDT

Our latest article for ESM comes in the form of building a wardrobe while trying to build your pay check. No man should sacrifice quality for cost. Next month we'll discuss what to buy when you finally do have a fat pay check. Until then...keep counting your pennies.

Until you graduated college, there wasn’t much need for a week’s worth of suits, dress shirts, and ties.

Pulling together a professional wardrobe when you’re offered a job doesn’t need to be expensive or difficult.

We’ll show you how.

Congratulations, you’ve graduated from college! Now it’s on to the first interview or your first day on the new job.

So what do you wear?

READ MORE

Menswear Dialogue Series | Bresciani Socks

noreply@blogger.com (Image Granted) — Mon, 14 May 2012 16:39:46 PDT

Continuing our menswear dialogue series in which we engage in intimate discussions with the experts of style around the globe; we bring you our interview with Massimiliano Bresciani, the man behind one of the most famous sock brands in the world. You need better socks.

1. What is your title/occupation/trade?

Vice President of Bresciani – Sales Director

2. Why are some men so concerned with small details of their wardrobe or "the extra 10%" i.e. socks, while others float through life without a care? Is this an epidemic on one side or are we sock lovers just crazy?

Fashion is all about details and small accessories can give a touch of class to a “normal” suit. Little details tell a lot about the personality of the man. Don’t forget socks also have a specific utility to keep feet comfortable and is the first step to taking care of personal health. New accessories on an old outfit can bring new life at a small cost as well.

3. Of all of the trades you and your family could have entered, why did you choose socks? Suits and ties and shirts are dominant for men, so why choose such an overlooked garment to build your business on?

Our area is clustered with sock makers. My father started working in socks business when he was 14 years old after my grandfather died due to war injuries only few months after he came back home after from being a prisoner of war in Germany. My father was the first son and at that time he found himself without a father and with 2 younger brothers. He entered the sock industry as machine worker and he then become chief of the production department. Then he started his own business in 1970. You can now understand why we have socks “in the blood”. I started working in the factory when I was 19 and my brother did the same. My son is already working here (he is 20 now). It is just something that is “natural” for us.

4. Is their any innovation left in the sock industry? It seems like there are 4 or 5 top players whom any sock aficionado will be familiar with, but past that is there any hosiery company on the rise that men should know about?

The last 5 years were very difficult for the hosiery industry in Europe and the USA. A lot of companies closed and a lot went commercial, buying in Far East and re-selling on domestic market. I can mention the best ones surviving in Italy: everybody knows about Gallo, but there are still traditional companies like Sozzi in Milan and Palatino in Rome, who produce high quality socks. 90% of the others are just converters, without factories or just too small to have their own brand and are working as producers for the bigger ones.

Style Q&A | Seersucker Social

noreply@blogger.com (Image Granted) — Mon, 14 May 2012 16:39:57 PDT

Reader - I come to you asking some style advice. I received a seersucker sports coat as a birthday gift a few months ago. When I received it the weather was still a little cool for seersucker, but now the days have warmed up quite a bit on the gulf coast and I feel it’s time to break it out.

My problem is, I am not quite sure what I should be wearing it with it in regards to pants and shirts.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Sincerely,

Soon to be college graduate!

IG - Seersucker is a major part of the quintessential getup for southern gents once the weather turns from warm to unbearably hot. However, one must not be south of the Mason Dixon line to don the outfit. Seersucker was first discovered and used by the British in India as a silk fabric. The word Seersucker is derived from the Pakistani translation of sirsakar meaning "milk and sugar", hence the milky white consistency of the traditional white and blue striped pattern.

Many men are apprehensive about wearing Seersucker but they shouldn't be. We've given some examples of how to wear the fabric with shirts, trousers and shoes if you're a beginner, have a bit of experience, or you're an experienced dandy. Take bits and pieces from all and use them as you see fit.

Beginner -

Shirt - Solid blue or white Oxford or semi spread barrel cuff

Trousers - Solid navy, khaki, gray wool gabardine or cotton

Shoes - Solid brown leather plain toe, cap toe, wingtip

Experienced -

Shirt - Solid pink poplin, broadcloth, Oxford, spread collar barrel cuff

Trousers - Solid, striped navy, stone, cotton chinos or linen trousers

Shoes - Solid brown, white, navy suede bucks, wingtips, penny loafers, Chukka boots

Advanced -

Shirt - Solid pink, blue, white linen, poplin button up or pop over, contrast collar and/or cuff, cutaway or club collar

Trousers - Solid, striped, checked white, cream, stone, navy, brown, gray linen, cotton dress trousers, chinos

Shoes - Spectators, suede double monk straps, tassel loafers, Chelsea boots, Jodhpurs, espadrilles, Sloops

Introducing | The IG Menswear Dialouge Series

noreply@blogger.com (Image Granted) — Mon, 14 May 2012 16:43:00 PDT

Over our time in the menswear industry we've been fortunate enough to meet some great people, collaborate with exceptional brands, and build relationships with men and women who have gained respect from me and their peers worldwide. I'm humbled just to know them and proud to be able to call on them from time to time.

So without further adieu we'd like to introduce the IG Menswear Dialogue Series. We will be bringing you intimate--but not that intimate--discussions with tailors, designers, editors, bloggers, and other craftsman whom I'm proud to call friends, focused on specific style issues from the cut of a double breasted blazer to the state of menswear to the advantages of vegetable tanned leather. Over the coming weeks we will post these short conversations with the menswear insiders themselves. First up, Mr. Harry Sheff, Web Editor of MRketplace magazine. He's got a lot to say. We suggest you take a listen.

Spring 2012 issue of MR Magazine

1. What is your title/occupation/trade?

My name is Harry Sheff and I'm an editor at MR Magazine, a menswear journal that covers retail for the trade. I write features for the print magazine, mostly on shirts and ties, and news and features for MR's website, MRketplace.com. In my spare time, I write about men's colognes and fine spirits and cocktails at a blog called Cocktails & Cologne.

2. As an editor for a major menswear publication what is your overall assessment of the menswear industry in general? Is menswear headed in the right direction or are we on a runaway train about to fall off a cliff?

That's tough. Fifty years ago, every town and every region had an independent department store. Within the last fifteen years, almost all of them either shut down or got swallowed up in what is now Macy's. It's shocking. And while that's been happening, domestic manufacturing has all but disappeared. Single-branded chains like Gap and J. Crew have become the default shopping spot for the typical guy, and Macy's has increased the penetration of its house brands to alarming levels. Choice—at least in the form of affordable apparel—for regular guys in this country is disappearing.

That said, two trends have given us hope. One is what we'd generically call the dress-up trend and the other is the heritage/workwear trend.

With dress-up, we've got guys wearing suits as fashion, rather than a uniform we grudgingly put on for work. Suits have slimmed down, as have dress shirts. The more specific and hence better-fitting sizing of dress shirts (neck and sleeve sizes rather than small/medium/large) has made them more attractive to wear outside of the office, too; shirt makers have addressed this by designing shirts that can be worn without ties after work. At the same time, more guys are wearing narrow ties both at night with slim-fitting suits, and casually with sport jackets and jeans. Seasonal fabrics like cotton, linen and wool have come back in neckwear, and bow ties are finally seen as novel accessories instead of signifiers of stodginess.

The heritage and workwear trends signify a nostalgic fascination with American-made clothing and a longing for apparel that had a purpose, like work boots and waxed cotton jackets. We're returning to the brands our fathers and grandfathers wore, with iconic pieces like Burberry trench coats, Red Wing boots, and Pendleton's wool plaid shirts. We're interested in raw denim woven in California or Japan on old looms. And in some cases, it's creating pride in our ability to make high quality goods in this country—even if it isn't creating a whole lot of new jobs.

Is menswear going in the right direction? I don't know; it's going in so many directions at once. But at least we're seeing some efforts to reverse bad trends, like casualization and an over-reliance on foreign manufacturing.

3. What do you see in the future for menswear retailers? What will men domestic and international be buying tomorrow and five years from now versus what they were buying 5 years ago? What will retailers domestic and international be selling tomorrow and five years from now versus what they sold five years ago?

Department stores have been disappearing because of a combination of mergers and the proliferation of single-branded retailers. This has had a tremendous negative impact on small independent retailers. Often the only way for small local menswear stores to survive was to go luxury. The margins on $300 and $500 suits (never mind affordable casual apparel) are too small and the competition from chains like Men's Wearhouse and Jos. A. Bank, much less Macy's, is too strong. But even many of the luxury stores still didn't survive the recession.

As far as trends go, we've been getting a lot of our direction from Europe and Japan for years now. The Japanese have been fascinated by American brands and 20th century American style, and it's come full circle: we're having the cultural mirror turned on us in a bizarre way. Some of the best interpreters of American style have been Japanese. But that's what Ralph Lauren has been doing for the last 40 years, and J. Crew for the last ten. Both Ralph Lauren and J. Crew do Brooks Brothers better than Brooks Brothers. It would be fun to see them catch up.

But regarding the future, we're finally seeing more innovative approaches to technical fabrics. I'd compare it to Hollywood special effects. Directors would get so wrapped up in CGI that it would dominate movies at the expense of good plots, and you'd only see them in action movies. Technical fabrics were likewise used for action sports, and only in wild and garish colors. Now we're starting to see the true potential of new textiles as they reach mainstream brands and show up in casual and dress apparel.

4. What is your stance on the blogosphere, #menswear, tumblr etc. and how it impacts the core of true journalism? Do you think print is threatened? Dying? Already dead?

True journalism hardly exists in the blogosphere, and there are many reasons for that. First, doing your own research and taking your own photos is time-consuming and expensive. It's a lot easier to post the press releases and supplied photos from brands that pitch you. The most egregious example of this showed up when GQ announced the nominees in February for their "best new menswear designer of the year" contest. The e-mail that was sent out had a typo in it, one that didn't appear in the attached press release. Lazy bloggers—I counted three of them that morning—just copied and pasted the list of designers, rendering Todd Snyder as Yodd Snyder. If they'd just taken the time to read the press release (or had the background knowledge to catch the error) instead of just spastically posting the list from the body of the e-mail, that wouldn't have happened.

And some of the better bloggers out there seem more motivated by self promotion and scoring free stuff than by a true love for men's clothing. Look at GQ's embarrassingly earnest "Oral History of Menswear Blogging". These bloggers are so inwardly focused that they're already writing their own history, just a few years in. They should be writing the history of menswear, interviewing people from the industry. Instead, they're interviewing each other.

So is print threatened by bloggers? Yes, but no more than anything else. I think as it gets harder for traditional magazines to make money off of traditional advertising—in print, online, or in iPad editions—editorial content will migrate to wholly sponsored sources like Gilt Manual. And that's not a good thing. A whole generation of bloggers and readers are coming up with no experience with editorial integrity. Why is blogger X writing about this new pair of sneakers? Because the company sent him a free pair. Why is Gilt Manual writing about Brand Y? Because they're trying to sell it to you—it's an ad in the form of an article. Not that print independent print magazines are any less guilty of it. We've all got to pay the bills.

But notice that I've referred to GQ a couple times. It's still a great magazine and I still think there's no substitute for it in print. Okay, maybe on a tablet or iPad. I guess the good news is that GQ (and to some extent Complex; less so Esquire) remains at the epicenter of the menswear blogging world, keeping it cohesive and giving new voices greater reach. The fact that guys give a shit about what they wear, and care enough to blog obsessively about it, is wonderful news. In the 90s, we all just let ourselves go. I'm not even talking about the brief grunge trend, I mean in everything from Casual Fridays to the baggier, boxier fit of suits. We—some of us, anyway—woke up and realized that we could be comfortable and look good, that wearing flip-flops and sweat pants on an airplane is just pathetic.

e-Book Review | The Effortless Guide To Graduating Your Style

noreply@blogger.com (Image Granted) — Thu, 03 May 2012 04:51:14 PDT

Our friend and fellow style savant Barron Cuadro of The Effortless Gent has been working hard behind the scenes and has recently written an e-Book to help regular everyday guys graduate from sloppy slub, to stylish gent. Barron was kind enough to give us a preview of the copy before it hit the street. We don't want to give away too much for those who are interested in picking up a copy so we'll keep it short.

In a short but jam packed 57 pages Barron covers everything from underwear to outerwear and how to upgrade, improve and enhance what you already have and what to look for if you don't have it. The book also comes with bonus chapters and extra reading for those who want to learn a bit more about measurements, grooming, and how to get the best fitting suit. Our brothers in style at Art of Manliness, Real Men Real Style, Dappered, and the lovely Style Girlfriend all approve and that's pretty good company. Barron is a solid resource for easy and approachable style and we highly recommend the transcript. Please support Barron and the cause for graduated style. Purchases can be made here. Enjoy!

Introducing | Martin Dingman Accessories

noreply@blogger.com (Image Granted) — Wed, 02 May 2012 05:50:02 PDT

Glazed Louisiana Alligator Belts

Glazed Alligator Credit Card Cases

Sartorial Debate | The Over-The-Shoulder Sweater

noreply@blogger.com (Image Granted) — Mon, 30 Apr 2012 19:31:00 PDT

As the season turns and the weather warms up men are taking off their sweaters and packing them away. At least they should be but we've been noticing an unusual amount of men sporting the over the shoulder sweater look--or maybe we've just taken more notice than in the past. Either way we're OK with it.

As with most things in menswear the look can be either done to perfection or overdone to the dismay of anyone with clear vision. Once upon a time the over the shoulder sweater look could be associated with pretentious, stuck up, country club card holding trust fund kids and/or the like. If overdone the look can be foppish--see exhibit A Carlton Banks below. However, if tastefully done the sweater over the shoulder can be unassuming and approachable. It can act as a secondary layer to keep you cool from the sun and warm when the night falls. It also adds a layer of visual interest. A cashmere or cotton sweater worn with a proper OCBD, chinos, desert boots or suede oxfords and Persols can make a great look.

Don't be this guy

The IG Guide to The Essential OCBD

noreply@blogger.com (Image Granted) — Thu, 26 Apr 2012 05:21:06 PDT

In our latest piece for Primer Magazine we discuss the properties of the Oxford cloth button down and why ever man should own one.

When we think of an Oxford shirt a few words come to mind. Classic, versatile, comfortable, and easy. Oxford shirts are actually made out of oxford cloth; a thick and densely woven cotton which is highly resilient and hard-wearing. Oxford shirts can be worn with any type of collar from point to spread, but the most common is the button down collar, hence the name oxford cloth button down. In the menswear world this workhorse just goes by OCBD (not to be confused with OBGYN.) The OCBD originated in England with polo players using buttons to keep the collars of their shirts from flapping in the wind during the game. When the fashion made the jump across the pond Brooks Brothers became the dominate authority—and still are today—on the OCBD.

So why is the OCBD so important? It’s the quintessential American casual shirt. It can be dressed up and down—but only in America. Fred Astaire wore his with double breasted suits.However, most men don’t have the sartorial confidence of Mr. Astaire. Button downs are best worn in casual situations. Weekends, holiday dinners, football games, movie night with the wife or girlfriend.

The casualness of the shirt marries well with chinos, denim, flannels and cords and just as well with loafers, derbies, chukkas and sneakers. Worn under a cashmere or cotton v-neck sweater or a wool cardigan the OCBD is the perfect backdrop for a well-dressed–albeit casual—man.

While the OCBD hasn’t changed much over the last century, today it comes in many different colors, fits, and variations. From classic and roomy to runway slim. Long collar stance or short, solid, striped or patterned. The best OCBD’s have a generous collar roll, meaning the collar doesn’t lay flat like your standard dress shirt collar. The OCBD collar should have a life of its own. Worn with a tie or without the collar buttoned is the stand out of every dress shirt and it’s no different with the OCBD. The best OCBDs don’t need to be ironed. They are meant to be rumpled and roughed up. Save the iron for your cutaway collars and French cuffs.

The OCBD has been produced by every luxury, high street, designer label and by your local Wal-Mart, JCPenney, and Macy’s. It can be purchased for a week’s paycheck or with the change you find under the couch cushions. However, there is a thin line between getting a good deal and going for the cheapest thing out there. Most quality OCBDs that will fit, have a decent collar, and won’t disintegrate in two months will cost at least $20—after the sale/discount/clearance that is. Without going custom or made to measure (MTM) a quality OCBD can be had for around $40.

The OCBD has a permanent place in any man’s wardrobe and should be the cornerstone of his casual shirting wardrobe. Just don’t be afraid to wear it with a tie.

Banana Republic, $79.95

Uniqlo, $29.90

Express, $59.90

Lands’ End Canvas, $50

Brooks Brothers, $79.50

Gap, $54.95

The IG Guide to Mixing Shirt & Tie Patterns

noreply@blogger.com (Image Granted) — Thu, 26 Apr 2012 05:22:55 PDT

Our latest piece for Primer discusses matching shirt and tie patterns. Don't be afraid to play with pattern, color and texture. Enjoy.

A plain shirt with a striped tie not only gets boring, it’s entry-level. Learn to pair patterns and stripes with these 8 examples.

Some things mix well together. Peanut butter and jelly. Ham and cheese. Navy and gray. Other things don’t mix so well. Oil and water. UNC and Duke. Black and brown. Many men have trouble matching fabrics, colors and even more so, patterns. Stripes with stripes? Checks with checks? Yes, it’s possible and in certain circumstances we even recommend it.

As with most things in life moderation is key. The most well-dressed men understand that wearing two or more patterns adds visual texture and lets viewers know that he isn’t afraid to mix and match. However, there is an art to the game. The human eye can only handle so many patterns. In fact it can only handle four at time. Only the most skilled and advanced dressers can pull off four patterns at a time without looking like a kaleidoscope, so we recommend no more than two for the regular guy just starting out.

The easiest pattern is no pattern at all. Solids are the foundation and the rest is free game. The key is to play with scale. Large background patterns look best with small patterns in the foreground. Big pattern shirts call for small patterned ties and vice versa. Wearing two of the same pattern? The same principle exists. Two stripes together are fine as long as one is smaller than the other. Wearing two patterns of the same scale will confuse the viewer, and
the wearer for that matter.

The most important thing to remember is that it takes practice. No one gets it right the first time and over time each man will gravitate toward the patterns he likes and what suits his personality. Once you find the right combo, the rest is gravy.

Shirt: Neiman Marcus Tie: Nautica

Shirt: Joseph Abboud Tie: Calvin Klein

Shirt: Hickey Freeman Tie: Calvin Klein

Shirt: Hugo Boss Tie: Polo Ralph Lauren

Shirt: Hugo Boss Tie: Polo Ralph Lauren

Shirt: Ralph Lauren Tie: Polo Ralph Lauren

Shirt: Ralph Lauren Tie: Ralph Lauren

Style Q&A | Tailored Clothes on a Tailored Budget

noreply@blogger.com (Image Granted) — Sun, 22 Apr 2012 06:47:14 PDT

Reader question - As a 19 year old who is about to go into college in the UK, do you think it's worth investing in tailored shirts and suits yet? Obviously I have less income than the average man in their twenties or thirties, and I want to start rockin' shirts and blazers more often in casual situations. Whilst I'm developing an understanding of how shirts and blazers fit, is it worth me spending five times the price on tailored clothes?

Thanks in advance for your advice!

Thanks for reaching out and for reading. It's great to hear that you're taking your style seriously at a young age. While its great to start early, the lack of income and resources will somewhat prohibit your ability to purchase higher quality goods, but it should not prevent you from looking your best overall. No matter how much money you have--or don't have--the principles of the three F's still apply. Fit, fabric and fucntion. Concentrate on clothes that fit your body, adhere to your current lifestyle and that are made of natural and quality materials and you'll build a foundation in your younger years that will serve you well later.

If you do not have sufficient income and/or savings to be able to purchase tailored clothing we don't suggest you making those purchases. Tailored clothing is an investment and will pay for itself over time, but it does require a significant amount of funds up front. Instead of going custom from the start an alternative route is to shop for second hand items at thrift stores, Goodwill, estate sales, online auctions etc. to purchase above average clothing at below average prices, then invest money in alterations which overall cost significantly less than building a garment from scratch. This will also allow you to educate yourself on clothing in general. Buying second hand will give you an automatic indoctrination. You'll quickly learn what fabrics are quality and which aren't, as well as what brands to look for and which to steer clear of. Its a continuous education process for which you pay pennies on the dollar versus several hundred dollars for something custom you may not understand completely.

Right now we don't believe its worth investing in custom tailored clothing. Take some time to understand who you are, what your style is and what it may become in the future. Many men twice your age have no clue. So again, we salute you sir for your early adoption of style and substance. Keep us posted on your progress.

Debate | Button Fly Vs Zipper Fly

noreply@blogger.com (Image Granted) — Thu, 19 Apr 2012 05:14:25 PDT

Recently we've been debating the merits of the button fly versus the zipper fly. While most men are familiar and most accustomed to zipper fly's, the more sartorially inclined realize the benefits and advantages of button flys. Button fly's take more time and care to create and anything in which more time and care is given we are inclined to favor. In our opinion the best dressed men wear button fly pants. In the past we found button flys to be an undesirable inconvenience, but as our tastes have grown, so has our appreciation for the button fly.

Button fly's can be found in any type of trousers from casual to formal. Jeans, flannels, worsteds, and chinos such as the ones below. These come from the online retailer Tailor Store and we customized our chinos with a button fly. Let's investigate the pros and cons of each.

Button Fly Pros -

Security - Button fly's provide much more security than zipper flys by holding the fly in place without the chance of coming undone.
Superior appearance - Button fly's allow the trouser crotch to lay flat therefore improving the symmetry of the front of trousers and thereby improving the appearance of the wearer.
Superior fit - Button fly's provide a better fit by holding the crotch in place after washing.wearing/dry cleaning where as zippers can sometimes be warped by the cleaning and maintenance process.
Less danger - Buttons don't zip and therefore nothing can get caught in them.
No sticking - Buttons don't stick half way through a zip leaving the wearer exposed.
Low cost of repair - Buttons cost $2-3 for repair and/or free if you do it yourself.

Button Fly Cons -

Time consuming - Button fly's can take double if not triple the time to button and unbutton during urination, dressing and undressing, and most important of all--sex.
Inconvenient - Depending on the weight and fabric of the trousers, buttoning may be a difficult nuance especially if the wearer is not especially deft with their hands.

Zipper Pros -

Convenient - Quick and easy. Takes no more thought than breathing.
Easy access - Quick and easy access for urinating, dressing and undressing, and most importantly, sex.

Zipper Cons -

Less security - Zippers can become loose over time and if not properly closed can leave the wearer exposed.
Irregular fit - Zippers can become warped, broken, stuck, uneven, etc, causing bulges and an unsightly appearance across the front of the trousers.
Danger - The wearer's personal equipment can easily get caught in a zipper.
High cost of repair - Depending on damage zipper replacement can cost anywhere from $12-18.

Private Stock Preview | Sette Neckwear

noreply@blogger.com (Image Granted) — Mon, 16 Apr 2012 14:35:42 PDT

We recently introduced you to Sette Neckwear, the DC based tie maker offering Italian 7 fold silk ties. Sette will be hosting a private trunk show on Saturday, April 21 at the Mayflower Hotel from 12-6pm. Peter Watkins CEO of Sette and former Washington politico will be showing off his exclusive collection before it can be found online and will be available to answer your questions and hear your feedback. Peter passed on the invite to us and we are passing it on to you. If you enjoy ties and have the time, drop by and tell Peter we sent you.

April 21 - 12-6 p.m. The Mayflower Hotel - 1127 Connecticut Ave NW, Washington, DC 20036

RSVP to: concierge@setteneckwear.com

Introducing | Private Label Neckwear

noreply@blogger.com (Image Granted) — Sat, 14 Apr 2012 05:54:12 PDT

Private Label is an exclusive brand of b & l textile trading, a leading designer and manufacturer of neckties and supplier to many of the world’s leading men’s fashion brands. b & l is a German-based company with more than 75 years of history positioning itself close to the fashion centers of London, Milan and Paris with partners and operations in Asia. The newly launched neckwear brand Private Label utilizes b & l services and grew out of a partnership with highly experienced specialists in handcrafted ties, located in Thailand.

Private Label recently launched its online webstore and we've had the pleasure of speaking with Mr. Thomas Busch, the CEO of Private Label. He sent us his current collection of ties and we highlighted a few of our favorites. Take a look at his comments and meet the man in the short introduction video.

"We solely use unfinished, speak loom state fabric for jacquard wovens. The fabric keeps its volume and tends to last longer. The fabric we purchase is from Great Britain and Japan. We use two layers of interlining both for jacquard wovens and prints, one is pure wool and one is pure cotton. Both are from Italy. The bar tack positions are significantly higher compared to high end brands from Great Britain and Italy. I believe that the necktie gets a more sartorial look because of that. Also the way we do the flower bar tacks is significantly better and more sophisticated compared to the established brands. The setback, the part where the lining joins the face part, both on tight end and wide end, is one of the best in our industry. The neckties are 155 cm long as to do proper four-in-hand knots and giving the possibility to match tight end and wide end at their tips length wise. As once Agnelli did in his days. The designs and coloration's are basic and classic enabling the customer to wear this product over many seasons. Within the next 4 weeks I will have some new designs available in silk and wool".

Interview | All Things Fashion DC

noreply@blogger.com (Image Granted) — Thu, 19 Apr 2012 18:58:13 PDT

We recently spoke to the folks over at All Things Fashion DC and they asked our opinion on how to break into the fashion industry. We were happy to share our thoughts. Enjoy.

The title is pretty self-explanatory, but we’ll explain it anyway. In this series we pose one question to two Washington, DC area bloggers to get their opinion on a particular issue in fashion. We are excited to have Grant Harris of Image Granted and Kendrick Jackson of InTheCapital (known together as The Selected Few) participate as our first male bloggers in this series.

QUESTION:

The fashion industry is stereotyped as only catering to women. Do you have any advice catered to men who want to start careers in fashion? What are some resources you recommend for them to look at (websites, magazines, movies, etc)?

Read the rest of the article HERE.

Your Personal Style Guide to Finding Your Personal Style

noreply@blogger.com (Image Granted) — Tue, 10 Apr 2012 04:35:36 PDT

Our latest instalment of style advice for Essential Style for Men (ESM). This month we cover how to find your personal style in a few simple steps.

All kneel to the gods of style. Grant Harris helping our readers develop their own personal sense of style.

For this installment of Image Granted, ESM’s resident style expert explores his ideas about how someone can go about finding his (or her) personal style in 3 easy steps.

1. Know the style you have

Knowing who and what you are is the first step in assessing your style today and what will it become tomorrow.

All of us go through changes in life. Career moves, climbing the social ladder, and puberty—albeit some later than others. Maybe you spend your days hiking and your nights around campfires. Or you may spend your days in an office and attending Broadway shows at night.

Every man’s path is different.

However, we all start in the same place–looking in the mirror everyday when we wake up.

Think you're a casual, t-shirt kind of guy? You should know when you look at yourself in the mirror.

All men fit into one of several style categories whether he knows it or not. Today one may fit one of these categories. The next he may fit another.

Over time most men will gravitate toward one or the other on a consistent basis.

Classic – This is a man who dresses in a traditional and classic way and has the air of a gentleman.
Celebrities with this style include George Clooney, Peter Jennings, and Tony Blair.

Dramatic – This is a man who is confident, independent, and likes to get noticed. A peacock of a man.
Celebrities with this style include Boy George, Dennis Rodman, and Mick Jagger.

Elegant – This is a man of grace, mystery, and extremely fine taste – a man of discrimination and distinction.
Celebrities with this style include James Bond and NBC news anchor Brian Williams.

Natural – This is a man who is at ease in many situations. He feels like a good friend, very genuine and sincere. Celebrities with this style include Chef Emeril Lagasse, Apple CEO Steve Jobs, and Al Roker.

Romantic/Alluring - This is a man with sex appeal. Celebrities with this style include Fabio, John Travolta, and Leonardo DeCaprio.

Sporty/Rustic – This is a man close to the earth, who likes the outdoors and enjoys sports and nature.
Famous personalities that reflect this style include crocodile hunter Steve Irwin, the MarlboroMan, and Indiana Jones.

2. Know the style you want to have

Knowing your current style is is half the battle.

The rest is knowing—or at least having guess—at what your style will evolve into in the future. As a young man you may start out as sporty/rustic, but as your taste in culture, food, women, etc. change you may evolve into a romantic.

As you go through life you will come across men whom you admire or think to yourself “I think I could pull that off one day”.

Don’t ignore that thought. Instead, use it as a guide to build your style over time.

Do you see yourself as someone with a classic sense of style in the future? You should keep this goal in mind as you develop your personal sense of style.

The most stylish men in the world didn’t start out that way. They learned, they matured, they made mistakes and eventually found what they think is the best style for them. That may not be the same style they had several years ago.

So, no matter what yours style is now, rest assured it could and should change in the future.

3. Know how to get there

The final piece of the puzzle is to know where, when, and how to acquire the necessary wares for improving your style.

Don’t have a tailor now? Find one. Don’t know where to shop? Ask around. Don’t own a shoe shine kit? Get one.

Many men think that becoming and/or being stylish costs a lot of money. Well, it can—but it doesn’t have to.

Some of the best dressed men I know shop at thrift stores, wear second hand clothing, and rarely spend over $100 on a purchase.

Could they be better dressed? Probably. Could they be more stylish? Not if they are comfortable with whom they are.

Style isn’t about the cost. It’s about the effort.

With a little time, practice and research your style can develop and be as effortless as this guy.

Read, listen, and watch men—and women—who have the knowledge and resources for style.

Knowledge is free—most of it anyway—and it’s the best way to gain access to the proper resources which may end up saving you money over time.

Styleforum Discussions I Shopping DC Part II

noreply@blogger.com (Image Granted) — Thu, 24 May 2012 09:41:47 PDT

Part two of our menswear shopping series with our brothers from Styleforum. Check out part I HERE.

Image courtesy Rue 14

Rue 14
1803A 14th St. NW
Washington, DC 20009

Owned and operated by a husband and wife tag team, Rue14 has been a fixture of D.C. shopping since it opened in late 2008. Husband Andrew brings his experience as a buyer at Brooks Brothers, while Jiwon relies on her expertise gained from her time working in production for Ralph Lauren. The idea for Rue 14 was to bring the look and feel of a SoHo boutique to D.C. without the NYC price tags. The store carries a progressive lineup of modern offerings including Gant, Happy Socks, Nudie Jeans, Penfield, and Will Leather Goods, among others.

Image courtesy Georgetown Patch

Sky Valet
1800 Wisconsin Ave. NW
Washington, DC 20007

You could be forgiven for passing by Sky Valet’s modest Wisconsin Ave. storefront, which barely hints at the selection of men’s shoes within. Sky carries some of the highest quality, most world-renowned (and most expensive) footwear brands around. Including bluchers, oxfords, monks, loafers, and boots, the lineup includes cordovan models from Alden, Edward Green whole cuts and cap toes; Loake suede oxfords and desert boots; Crockett & Jones double monks and slip ons; and Bowhill & Elliot evening slippers. From American-made to bench-made in Britain, Sky Valet can suit footwear needs from casual to formal. Sky also does a brisk business in shoe repair.

Tari
1525 Wisconsin Ave. NW
Washington, DC

One of the newest thrift and consignment shops in the District is Tari. Another gem located in the Georgetown neighborhood, Tari offers consignors and consumers a place to find luxury brand names at lower prices. Zegna blazers, Borrelli and Canali shirts, Burberry and Brioni trench coats and vintage Charvet ties are prevalent throughout the store. You’ll have to become a regular to catch the best stuff, but that’s the idea.

Everard’s
1802 Wisconsin Ave. NW
Washington, DC 20007

Louis Everard has dressed everyone in D.C. from presidents to business owners, to bloggers. Everard’s has two locations in the District but the most recognized is the Georgetown location, just a couple doors up from Sky Valet. Louis sells American heritage suiting brands such as Hickey Freeman, but also carries the best of non-U.S. brands, like Marcoliani socks, Tino Cosma ties, and Martegani shoes. Everard’s prides itself on its made to measure service and will gladly create something to your personal taste.

Monita
1961 Chain Bridge Rd.
Mclean, VA 22102

Monita Italian Leather is a shoe shop and walk-in made-to-order footwear boutique. The Tysons Corner shop is the only boutique located in a residential shopping mall on our list. Monita offers its customers ready-to-wear as well as custom footwear from several of a dozen little known, but well-established Italian brands the average American consumer may not be familiar with (like Doucal’s and Maurizi). Customers have manyoptions from suede oxfords to calfskin Beatle boots to penny loafers. For MTO, the customer’s measurements are taken on site and then are allowed to select from upwards of 50 different shoe styles including leathers, brogueing, laces, etc. Weeks later you’ll enjoy a hand-lasted, hand-finished pair of custom shoes.

Other worthwhile stops:

J. Press
1801 L St. NW
Washington, DC 20036

The venerable trad-ing post only has four locations, so it’s always worth a stop for university stripe OCBDs (with flap pocket), ribbon belts, and sack jackets that remain much same as they were 30 years ago or more (some of the salesmen are the same, too, and can share some good stories).

Field English Custom Tailors
2134 Wisconsin Ave NW
Washington, DC 20007

As close as D.C. comes to Savile Row, Field Tailors has been creating bespoke men’s clothing for decades. William Field II took over the business from his father a few years ago and still offers English cut suits in fabrics from Dormeuil and others. Appointments preferred.

Video | General Knot Neckties

noreply@blogger.com (Image Granted) — Thu, 05 Apr 2012 04:40:10 PDT

We've introduced you to General Knot neckties in the past. Over the last few months we've had the opportunity work with Andy again. This time shooting a video in the streets of NYC. We worked with our brothers from Outfluenced to produce and edit this short film giving you a look inside what it takes to be a tie maker.

The film was shot on location in NYC at a tie manufacture where everyone from Ralph Lauren to J Press to J. Crew have their ties created. The factory is full of old boxes of ties thin and wide from days past. Actual ties line the walls of the factory. It's one thing to talk about the parts of a tie and dissect them. It's another to actual watch the cutting, the sewing, the tipping etc in person. It gives a whole perspective on tying and wearing a tie once you know exactly what into making it.

Andy does a great job of explaining his inspiration and aesthetics. It's not every day you get to get into the mind of a designer up close and personal. Andy is a down to earth dude, working hard and doing what he loves. His wife is actually the chief designer for Original Penguin, so fashion is in the family. We look forward to working with Andy again soon. Enjoy.

Styleforum Discussions | Shopping DC Part I

noreply@blogger.com (Image Granted) — Thu, 24 May 2012 09:41:03 PDT

We've waxed eloquently about the DC shopping scene in the past. This time we had a chance to update our picks with our friends from Styleforum. SF is widely considered to be the authority on classic menswear and modern streetwear. Having the chance to write for them is a pleasure and a privilege.

SF asked our opinion on some of the best menswear shopping in DC and we were happy to oblige. Here is part one. Part two will post in the near future. Feel free to stop by any of these fine establishments and tell them IG sent you.

Streets of Georgetown is the local outpost of Hart Schaffner Marx's dandy chain.

Streets of Georgetown
1254 Wisconsin Ave. NW
Washington, DC 20007

When Joseph Abboud sold his namesake label to become chief designer for HMX Group, the largest manufacturer of tailored menswear in the country, he worked with HMX CEO Doug Williams to open Streets concept stores in select cities. The Streets concept capitalizes on major cities’ top-drawer shopping neighborhoods or streets—in DC’s case, Georgetown. The boutique is stocked with some of the elder statesmen of American suiting, including Hickey Freeman and Hart Schaffner Marx, which is celebrating its 125th anniversary this year. Streets offers off-the-rack suiting as well as a truly tailored experience with made-to-measure services offering several hundred fabric choices. Bobby Jones, Coppley, Palm Beach, Austin Reed, and Filson round out suiting, casual, and sportswear offerings.

Federal
2216 14th St. NW
Washington, DC 20009

A recent addition to the DC shopping scene, Federal may sound like it caters to the politicians and lobbyists of Washington, but it’s far from what you might think. Located on 14th St. corridor, it’s part of a restructured and converted skate shop. Its street-oriented history is reflected in on-trend offerings from a range of heritage-based Americana and workwear lines like Tellason, Pendleton, Red Wing, Danner, Dickies, Filson, Converse, Clarks, Herschel Supply, and others. D.C. has a rep for being short on this sort of gear and Federal is changing that.

The good doctor

Dr. K’s Vintage
1534 U St. NW
Washington, DC 20009

Dr. K’s is a vintage shop on the U street corridor that stocks the best edited stock of vintage men’s apparel in the city—leather jackets, militaria, cowboy boots, varsity jackets, and original cinchback denim from Levi’s. A native of Thailand, Dr. K has brought some of his personal collection to the shop, and can be seen showing off his latest finds from Brimfield or the Rose Bowl or more clandestine sources. Dr. K is often open late, but keeps strange hours so it’s best to call ahead.

Sette Neckwear
Suite 300
1701 Pennsylvania Ave. NW
Washington, DC 20006

Sette means “seven” in Italian. Given how much attention is given to Neapolitan menswear, it’s a breath of fresh air to have the presence of Sette in D.C. A collaboration between a former Robert Talbott designer and a White House staffer, Sette offers a lineup of made-in-Italy woven or printed silk ties for power players inside the beltway and beyond. Sette seven folds come in a versatile 3-inch width and are constructed with the exacting standards of old world Italian tie makers. Silks are sourced from the hills of Como, then folded, slip stitched and packaged. Each tie is a unique creation and is part of a limited run of no more than 21. Each is individually numbered, and owners can register them online with Sette. Sette ties don’t come cheap, but the customer service, presentation, and product are arguably worth it.

Other worthwhile stops:

Commonwealth
1781 Florida Ave. NW
Washington, DC 20009

Sharing an address with Stüssy, Commonwealth is D.C.’s outpost of the Virginia Beach streetwear king. Source for limited edition footwear, high-end hype like Maiden Noir, and wildcards like Gitman Vintage and Creep by Hiroshi Awai.

Hugh and Crye
3212 O St. NW #5 (between Potomac and Wisconsin)
Washington, DC 20007

DC-based brands fits shirts differently–by body type rather than measurements. Trim, darted cuts and strong colors and patterns dominate. Their bright Georgetown space is shop, laboratory, stockroom, and office all in one.

More recommendations to come in part II.

Style Q&A | Suede vs. Nubuck

noreply@blogger.com (Image Granted) — Tue, 03 Apr 2012 14:17:12 PDT

Reader question - What's the difference between nubuck and suede? If I'm looking for bucks, is one or the other preferable?

This question comes from one of our regular readers. If you hadn't heard this year we decided that one of our style resolutions was to only purchase suede shoes. Around here we're fans of suede and its attributes, but often nubuck gets overlooked as a second tier option. Nubuck originates from buckskin of deer and/or elk which was introduced to the US market in the early 1930's. Like many style innovations it was not readily accepted by most. However, when the Duke of Windsor made a royal visit to the States wearing suede Oxfords, the new style took off.

Nubuck is actually a type of suede and both are made of leather like calfskin. Both look and feel similar but are created and treated differently and are vastly different in price with suede being the lesser of the two. Both of these leathers are created by sanding process. However, the difference is nubuck is sanded on the outside of the skin while suede is sanded on the inside of the skin. The outer layer of calfksin is obviously tougher than the inside so this lends itself to more durability. However, since nubuck is sanded from the outside of the skin there are natural and inherent marks and imperfections. While some may see this as character, others may not be so kind. This leads manufactures to stain, and or dye the imperfections away creating a cleaner, smoother product, but also a product with less life and personality.

Many footwear novices believe that suede shoes are harder to maintain and more precious than their shiny leather counterparts. This could not be further from the truth. Suede and nubuck actually require less maintenance. They do not need to be, nor should they be shined, hence no weekly polishing. Most men believe that suede will be ruined if it gets wet. While wearing your suede shoes in the rain is ill-advised, it is not death for your shoes. Suede can and will recover from getting wet. However, the best method is prevention versus reaction. Treating your suede shoes with water proofing products and brushing them regularly with a suede brush (the soft bristles, never the wire) to maintain the nap--the actual fibers that gives suede its character--will suffice.

We personally prefer suede products over nubuck. Given the character achieved over time with suede and the soft and supple nap which only gets better with time, its ability to be dressed up or down equally, and its low maintenance factor make it most attractive to our liking.

Suede Loafers from Suitsupply

Suede belt from SuitSupply

Nubuck shoes from Florsheim

Introducing | Salence Technical Outerwear

noreply@blogger.com (Image Granted) — Fri, 30 Mar 2012 05:16:03 PDT

The definition of Salence is described as a clear sens of well-being in the midst of chaos. This has been built into a business model by the technical outwear company, Salence headquartered in Hoover, Alabama. Salence creates a line of six technical waterproof and weatherproof lightweight and heavyweight jackets, parkas and hoodies. Salence recently gave us the chance to review one of their pieces. We normally are attracted to more classic outerwear, but a cashmere topcoat isn't going to fare well in a rainstorm. We decided to try the Truss.

The Truss is a waist length long sleeved waterproof/weatherproof zip front jacket with a hood. It is composed of unlined stretch polyester. Flat seams on the inside provide a comfortable fit with ease of movement. It's heavy enough to feel substantial against the cold and a brisk wind, but light enough not to feel like you're hauling a pound of bricks.

We ordered a medium and the as usual the fit was spot on in the shoulders and chest but was a bit long in the sleeves. Speaking of the sleeves there is an interesting hidden pocket sipper on the forearm. The front pockets are deep extending all the ways to the front hem ans are lined in warm fleece. The chest closes securely with a leather trim snap which also ads a nice stylish touch. While we're not fans of hoods on jackets this hood fits snug and secure versus others we've tried. The jacket is composed of fine gauge stretch polyester twill with stretch waterproof membrane and Climashield "CONTUR" a breakthrough brand of insulation that combines durability with a soft, slim profile for ultimate flexibility.

Composition-

-Waterproof fabric
- Stretch insulation
- YKK waterproof zippers
- Extra deep hand pockets
- Hidden sleeve pocket
- Waterproof snaps
- Shirt tail cut
- Leather Trim

Salence products can be found in the following stores and retails at $395. Overall we were pleased with the construction, fit, fabric, and function of the Truss. Unfortunately we didn't get the chance to put it through its paces since the weather has been to warm and dry. However, we're confident the jacket would hold up well in it's element, the outdoor elements that is.

Retailers-

Testosterone - CO

Primo Outdoor - CO

Coachman Clothiers - TN

Michael David - OH

Lizard Lounge - OR

Verdigris Clothier - VA

Truss Navy

Truss Peppercorn

Truss Navy Hood