Finally Google Maps have added ’street view’ to Lisbon so it is now possible to wander Lisbon’s glorious streets in cyber space.  Whilst it isn’t shown on the small map below, if you go directly to Google Maps and type in Lisbon you’ll see a little orange man in the top left hand corner of the map. Drag him anywhere on the map and suddenly you have the view of the street as if you were walking it.

I’ve loved Google Street View from the start and have been eagerly anticipating Lisbon’s addition. Whilst it certainly can’t beat a real visit, it’s a terrific way of aquainting yourself with your way round before your trip and getting a feel for the place. Once you have been in real life, it’s also a great way to jog memories of your trip.

Check it out.

View Larger Map

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Chiado Museum is based in Chiado on Rua Serpa Pinto. To get there, aim for Cafe Brasileira on Rua Garrett and take the road on your left just before the cafes and the metro stop. Walk  about half way down the road and you’ll see a long red flag hanging down on the left hand side of the street announcing you’ve arrived. Just before you reach the entrace of the Museum, make sure you check out the doorway in the wall as these leads into the Museum Cafe which is definately worth a visit (here’s a clue – there are circular windows in the wall). It’s one of those places that not so many people know about but the garden is lovely and cool and it’s the perfect place to while away an hour before or after your museum visit. Food and drinks are reasonably priced and the staff are friendly too.

The Museum initially opened on the 26th May 1911 and was housed in an ancient Convent of Saint Francis. Closed just before the terrible Chiado fire in 1988 the museum went through a complete redesign and reopened it’s doors in 1994. The building inside is a beautiful space full of curved wooden accented ceilings and wood and glass walkways. The architecture gives a curious feeling of the building being very old and very new all at the same time.

Museu do Chiado specialisies in art from the mid 19th Century to now. A few pieces come from outside Portugal but the vast majority are Portuguese artists. There are a range of styles and disciplines with work ranging from Romanticism through to Avant Garde, Surrealism to Expressionism – and probably a good deal more art ‘ism’s’ that I don’t know the name of

Having little true knowledge of art I am merely an observer and sometimes I think it is important just to experience a piece and see how it touches the senses rather than to compare or contrast or even describe. Sometimes, I just like to let art be…well…art.

I loved the piece by Alberto Carneiro ‘Raiz, Caule, Folhas, Flores e Frutas’ (Root, Stem, Leaves, Flowers and Fruits) and an odd sculpture ‘Duas Cabeças’ (two heads) by Jorge Martins. There was a space that paid homage to symbolism and another paying homage to the blues (I’m assuming this was a temporary exhibition). The artwork is very varied and interesting and therefore there’s something for everyone. I have to say however my favourite piece was Helena Almeida’s “Pintura Habitada” (Inhabited Painting). There was something quite mesmorizing about her work – the vividness of the blue, the artist disappearing into the art…absolutely beautiful. This collection of images has stayed in my mind long after I came home.

Pintura Habitada

The Museum is open Tuesday to Sundays 10am – 6pm and costs €4 to enter except on Sunday mornings when it is free until 2pm.

Rua Serpa Pinto, 4-6, Chiado, Lisboa
www.museudochiado-ipmuseus.pt

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QuietZone Lda & Dormio Leisure Development Portugal Lda offer free stay in their Lisbon Tourist Apartments, Lisbon,

QuietZone Lda (QuietZone) and Dormio Leisure Development Portugal Lda (Dormio) have initiated an online sweepstake contest with a first prize which comprises 2 nights’ stay in their tourist apartments for two guests, 200 euros in cash, dinner at a central restaurant and several Lisbon city tours.

This competition is open to all participants over 18 years old from any country in the world and will take place online at the Lisbon Apartments website from May 18th 2009 until 31st July 2009. The lucky winners will be announced in the month of August 2009.

Several important Portuguese tourism companies have collaborated with the organizers to provide free city excursions as part of the prize: The well known sightseeing operator Carristur will provide a courtesy trip on their famous Red Tram or other circuits; Red Tour a fun ride on their Segways or Buggies; and Go Car Tours an entertaining GPS-guided drive in their three-wheel vehicles. Neoturismo has contributed 2 Lisboa Card tourist cards for free and discounted entry to dozens of museums and sights. Lastly, the “Espalha Brasas” restaurant in the lively Docas area of the city will be offering a free meal for two.
Dormio’s General Manager Mr. Robin van der Hijden stated, “We are extremely happy to be able to offer this magnificent prize and are very grateful to all the participating companies who have so kindly donated their products and services to promote Lisbon tourism in this way”.
QuietZone and Dormio provide short-term holiday rentals for visitors to Lisbon, Portugal via their respective websites http://www.lisbonapartments.com and http://www.casamadragoa.com.

Good luck with your entry!

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Príncipe Real is a leafy neighbourhood not far from Bairro Alto. Here you’ll find grand houses with beautiful tilework, quaint antique shops, bookstores, tiny coffee houses and gay friendly bars. There’s a certain homely bohemian feel and it immediately makes me think that this is an area I could live in.

From Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara, follow the road round to the right and up the short hill. The climb will take into the Príncipe Real district and you’ll see trees ahead of you. Head towards the green and you’ll find a tranquil park which is over-awed by a huge ancient ceder tree whose branches spread out to almost impossible dimensions. The tree is so old that it is now held up by ornate iron trellis. I wandered beneath it, feeling the sheer weight of it upon me and wondered how many lovers this tree has witnessed. It’s perhaps what used to be called a Trysting Tree. The presence of the tree is both deeply comforting and ominous – almost as if it’s spirit fiercly protects this little sanctuary in Lisbon.

It was around 10am when I arrived in the park so there were no lovers to be seen but the park was a natural focal point. People were walking their dogs, elderly folk sat reading the morning paper and prepared for a game of cards, people cut through on their way to work and a few earlybird tourists stopped to read their maps. There are permanent picnic tables and plenty of shady seats as well as a lovely little cafe to buy your morning bica (espresso).

Wandering through the park, I came across an entrance leading underground to the Museu da Água (Museum of Water). Unfortunately I didn’t have time to go in but I have discovered from the main website that this is one part of the Water Museum which is spread over several sites. This site (the Patriarchal Reservoir) was once one of the main reservoirs in Lisbon holding tons of water to keep downtown alive. Shut down in the 1940’s the site has become an place of historic and architectural interest.

Príncipe Real is a neighbourhood with a lot to offer. I’m told that it’s well worth stopping to buy bread here too from a shop called Doce Real.

Yes, I could definately live in Principe Real.

http://museudaagua.epal.pt/museudaagua/

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Here is a list of the vocabulary found in the video with sound files.

The Planets
Os Planetas

Sol – Sun

Lua – Moon

Mercúrio – Mercury

Vénus – Venus

Marte – Mars

Júpiter – Jupiter

Saturno – Saturn

Úrano – Uranus

Neptuno – Neptune

Plutão – Pluto

Signs of the Zodiac
Os Signos do Zodiaco

Carneiro – Aries

Touro – Taurus

Gémeos – Gemini

Caranguejo – Cancer

Leão – Leo

Virgem – Virgo

Balança – Libra

Escorpião – Scorpio

Sagitário – Sagittarius

Capricórnio – Capricorn

Aquário – Aquarius

Peixes – Pisces

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Also, check out Catavino for a whole host of articles on food and wine in Portugal.

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The belvedere of Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara sits on the edge of Bairro Alto and offers a magnificent paranoramic view across the city. From here you can see the Tejo, St. George’s Castle, Graça, The Sé and many more famous Lisbon landmarks.

The Miradouro is easy to find. Make your way to Restauradores and take the Gloria Furnicular to the very top (€1.40 at the time of travel in Oct ‘08 for a one way trip). If you are feeling energetic of course you could walk up the hill!

Once you reach the top of the hill, walk up the few steps and turn to your right. The Miradouro is there on Rua de São Pedro de Alcântara. At first you see a long tree-lined shady park with benches set along the centre. Walk about half way down and you’ll come to a memorial dedicated to Eduardo Coelho who was the founder of the famous daily newspaper Diáro de Notícias in 1863. The boy beside the bust of Eduardo is of an ‘ardina’ – a newspaper boy who would sell the paper on the streets of Lisbon.

Further down the park there is a bubbling fountain; a wonderful sound in the heat of the Portuguese summer, and a small open air cafe that opens at 10am – perfect for brunch.

Crossing to the main viewpoint there is a large azulejos tile map which points out all the landmarks you can see from here. There are also telescopes for zooming in. When I arrived it was early morning and the park was mostly deserted apart from an elderly man sweeping the leaves and a couple of other tourists. It was incredibly quiet and peaceful.

Gazing out across the view, I looked down and noticed the geometric gardens below. I wandered down the steps into a garden offset by white busts of famous Portuguese figures from history and hero’s and Gods from mythology. Ulysses had managed to keep his head but unfortunately some of the others hadn’t been so lucky!

As well as the view, my favourite part to the lower garden was the waterfall built into a grand archway inside the wall. Water trickles down ancient moss and azulejos and it made me think of a wishing well from a story I read as a child. The whole place has a rather magical feel. There was a lady practising tai chi in the early morning sun and it does seem the perfect place to calm mind, body and soul.

Whilst the Miradouro is quiet in the daytime, be aware that at night it is busier as many people meet here on their way into the bars of Bairro Alto. It is worth visiting in the evening however as the sunset makes the castle light up with a mysterious glow offering some fabulous photographic opportunities of Lisbon by night.

Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara is like a sacred space in the heart of the city with distinct day and night atmospheres. Add it to your list of things to see.

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The ferry was ancient and rusted. Momentarily I wondered whether I should dare my weight upon it. It creaked at the waterside, rocking knowingly to the rhythm of the river.

The journey to to Cacilhas was €2.55 for a round trip (ida e volta) which is a serious bargain compared to some of the boat trips being hawked at the port. Whilst some may like the glitz of the more expensive cruises around the bay, I wanted to experience the crossing as a Lisboeta.

I caught the ferry at Cais de Sodré. To get there turn right at the end of Praço do Comércio (facing the river) onto Av. da Ribeira das Naus. Follow the road up until you reach Praça do Duque da Terceira; it’s just just a few minutes walk. Cais de Sodré is there on your left. Once you arrive, walk right through past the train terminal to the end where you can buy your ticket to Cacilhas. There’s a ferry every 10 minutes or so and the journey itself lasts 10 – 15 minutes on the water.

Ferries are usually quite busy as not only do you have tourists making their way across to the Christi Rei statue, you also have local people making their way to and from work. This is one of the main reasons I enjoy the ferry more than the cruises as it’s another way of taking part in local life.

photo credit: campagnoli

I found space to sit however; nestled against the window surrounded by two elderly Portuguese ladies, a mother and child and a German couple. As the ferry made ready to leave I found myself wondering whether this had been a good idea seeing as I have the worst sea-sickness ever. I have been known to go green on a canal boat! The engines revved and the water rolled beneath us and as the banks of Lisbon’s north shore receeded I managed to convince my stomach that there was no cause for alarm. Delighted, I found myself enjoying the trip.

Whilst the windows are a little grimy, the further the ferry goes, the better the view of Lisbon’s shores. As you reach the middle of the river, your eye can stretch from Belém Tower to Alfama and the Sé. You also get a fabulous view of the Ponte 25th de Abril too. Whilst the famous bridge is another way of crossing the river, there is something wonderfully romantic about a boat – the slight smell of corrosion of  water upon metal, the oil of the engines, the rhythm of the waves…

I had no plans when I reached the other side of the river. I just wanted to take in the view and wander. Initially as we disembarked, a mass of woman selling fruit, vegetables and imitation watches beseeched us to buy. I side-tracked the throng and turned left to walk along the waterside. Hardly a few feet later, I found a seat beside the river where I could simply sit and gaze at Lisbon from a different vantage point. After pausing there for a while, I changed my mind about walking further into Cacilhas favouring a long walk beside the water instead.

Walking back on myself, I made my way along the river side, past jetties with old fishing boats moored and run-down warehouses. I stood for some time simply drinking in the panorama, tasting the slight salt on my lips and the heat of the sun reflecting of the water. I had one of my moments that I sometimes have in Lisbon, an overwhelming feeling that I wanted to cry with the love I felt for the beautiful city that lay on the opposite shore.

Many come to Cacilhas to visit the giant Christi Rei monument that echoes the one found on the mountain overlooking Rio de Janerio in Brazil. Perhaps it is the sense of pilgrimage that hangs over this place that moves me too. If Christi Rei is the point of your trip by the way, there is a bus outside the ferry port at Cacilhas that will take you all the way to the monument.
 
Time was short however as I had made my decision to ride the ferry a couple of hours before meeting someone for coffee. Rather than explore further, I caught the ferry back, letting it rock me back into the arms of Lisbon. The vast monument and Cacilhas are mysteries for me to explore another day…

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Running from the grand entrance to Lisbon on Praça do Comércio to central Praça Rossio, Rua Augusta is the bustling main street of Lisbon. Pedestrianised, the street captures every aspect of Lisbon life from market stalls and street art to high end and high street shops. The road was immortalised in Gulliver’s travels. I watched this not too long ago and had no idea that Lisbon was featured. Much to my friend’s annoyance I could not stop the squeal of excitement I let out when I noticed Gulliver being wheeled through the magnificent archway (Arco do Rua Augusta). 

Assuming you have not been captured by the people of Lilliput, the first thing you will see upon entering through the giant archway from Praça Comércio is a variety of market stalls. Most of these sell bags, scarves and some jewellery. Cross the road ahead and you then come to a rash of stalls either side of the street selling paintings of Lisbon and Portugal. Be warned that some of the stall holders are very pushy. I just happened to glance at one of the pictures I liked and the stallholder was telling me his life story in seconds and then offering me a deal on two for the price of one in under a minute! I was amused as I had already decided I wanted to purchase a picture the day before and sales patter has absolutely no effect on me whatsoever.  Just so you know, this is the part of the street where the banks are so head here if you need an ATM (although there are plenty scattered around the city anyway).

Cross the next street and this brings you to the cafes that have seats situated in the centre of Rua Augusta. Tables and chairs abound here for the weary traveller who’s just landed in Lisbon. Food at these tables tends to be cheap and cheerful. On the right hand side of the street is a little souvenir shop selling a wide variety of nik naks.

Next to this is ‘A Chega’ which sells all things woollen. The quality looks good and not too expensive.

Note that the next street that crosses Rua Augusta is the one with the tram lines. Turn left and walk up the hill to the tramstop if you want to catch the 28 to the Castle here.

Crossing over the tram lines and continuing up Rua Augusta you’ll see a large branch of Zara on your left. A little further along is the rather lovely “Casa Pereira da Conceição” This shop has been here since 1933. It’s one of my favourite shops in Lisbon but then I am a coffee lover and of course in Lisbon you will always find good coffee! In truth I must nod to tea as well as this traditional shop sells fine teas and coffees from all over the world. There is also gorgeous porcelain china, vintage ports, ginginha and home-made chocolates Mmmmmm  The shop is still run by the same family and has another smaller outlet in Chiado. If you want to buy your loved ones a foodie gift (or yourself!) this is a nice place to look.

Just across the next road that bi-sects Rua Augusta on the corner to your right is São Nicolau Cafeteria. Stop here for traditional Portuguese pastries such as pasteis de nata, queijinhos d’ovo, tarte de amêndoa, fatias, douradas and more.

Across the way is “Monteiros e Jorge LDA”, a high class leather and suede shop. Next up on the left is ‘Madeira House’ with typical Portuguese china (might be the place to buy your Portuguese cockerel). Beside this is the familiar H&M store and opposite are an array of other high street clothes shops.

Look left as you cross the next stree (Rua da Vitória) and you’ll see Chiado-Baixa metro.

The heart of the street now alternates between jewellers, fashion shops and tiny tourist kiosks packed with take home goodies. Poised gracefully between these is a rather swish looking men’s clothes shop at 195- 197 Rua Augusta called Pitta. Whilst there’s little for me to buy inside, I love this shop simply for it’s fabulous carved wooden frontage. Gleaming in the sunlight this shop pitches you back to an older era when every shop was individual and owners took great pride in every aspect of their business. Beside the gorgeous wooden-fronted shop is a tiny stairway that leads to a handicraft shop.

Cross the next street and you’ll come to Gazela – a little cafe in the centre of the road. It may serve as a much needed break if you are into shoe shopping because on this part of the street you’ll be spoilt for choice. I am still always surprised at just how many shoe shops their are in Lisbon and more so because they often seem to be open later than the other shops. Beside’s being born female I’m afraid I never sucumbed to the lure of shoes but then I’m a bit of a hippy so I’d probably go bare-foot if I could.

As you cross the next street you’ll see the Elevador Santa Justa – do go for a ride.

The next point of interest is Casa Brasileira and absolutely terrific pastry shop. You can tell it’s good because the Portuguese are going in to eat. Opposite is Casa Macário which sells a huge range of Portuguese wines, sweets, honey’s and jams.

From the glorious calçadas to the traditional shops and cafes; from human statues and hustling buskers to the occassional sly hiss of “hashish” from a passing dealer. From well dressed Portuguese businessman to tired tourists, Rua Augusta is the lively centre of Lisbon. With the Tejo glittering at one end through the triumphant arch the light here falls on every colourful aspect of Portuguese life. It’s easy to rush down this street on the way to somewhere else but it deserves to be wandered and savoured and very definately tasted. Now, where next for a pasteis…

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