In the Lakeland Fells

Castle Crag and the Borrowdale Valley

2025-01-23T16:21:00.000+00:00

The green and wooded valley of Borrowdale is home to some of the best walking in the Lake District, as well as to some of the best views. There are a number of well known summits to be ascended from here; Scafell Pike, Great Gable and Glaramara among others, but the lower level routes are just as beautiful, owing to the lush vegetation that abounds in this valley. One of these is the short hike from the Youth Hostel to Castle Crag with a return along the River Derwent which I recently did with my son Ben after a stay at Borrowdale Youth Hostel. A modest height of 985 feet makes for an easy ascent but the views are

The early part of the walk

stunning...

Setting out we followed the path from the youth hostel along the west bank of the river, heading downstream or northwards, until the wooded peak of Castle Crag appeared ahead through the trees. This path is part of the route known as the Cumbria Way that goes from Ulverston to Carlisle, a walk of 5 days. We left it at this point to follow another path to the left across open fields before re-entering woodland before a short but steep ascent gave us great views back to the head of Borrowdale.

After the steeper section we passed an interesting high valley on our left which Ben declared would be a good place to live - I was inclined to agree but thankfully no building is allowed up here! Now our route turned up to the right and crossed a stile into more woods. After the stile we took a path heading up to the right that soon brought us up a steep stony section, the top of which gives some spectacular views of the head of Borrowdale and the high fells beyond. A little further along the path is the top of Castle Crag where a beautiful vista extends

Ben contemplates the Borrowdale valley

northwards to Derwentwater and Skiddaw framed by the forested walls of the Borrowdale Valley.

After a brief exploration of the old quarry area below the summit, we returned to the stile and continued down to the right through more woods and steeply down to join another well marked path - this is part of another long distance walk known as the Allerdale Ramble - and followed it down below the precipitous ramparts of Castle Crag, impressive from this angle, until just after re-entering the woods, we once again reached the River Derwent,

An idyllic spot by the river where the trees overhung the shingle banks invited a lunch stop and some more photos, before we headed back, following the river in a southerly direction towards our start point. Continuing the way we had been going would take you to Grange (there is a pub here) and for the more

Borrowdale from Castle Crag

energetic, to Derwentwater and Keswick. Our route back lay along a good path through the woods, a peaceful landscape of temperate rainforest, back towards Rosthwaite and passing an interesting cave up on the right.

This walk was Ben's first Wainwright and is a fine outing with kids, having many points of interest and not being too long. It's just under 4 miles starting from the Youth Hostel and slightly less again from Rosthwaite. A good bus service runs up and down the Borrowdale Valley and the main road can be reached over a stone bridge by Grange village. You come out not far from the Bowder Stone.

Distant Skiddaw and Derwentwater

Scafell Pike's somewhere up there...

The way down, Castle Crag on the right

An idyllic place for lunch

Walking Wainwright's Hills... The Last One

2025-01-16T21:20:00.000+00:00

There was no way I was getting across this river without getting wet. The path ahead clearly led beneath the fast flowing current to a point where it was hard to judge the depth. Further investigation up and down stream brought me to the same conclusion that this was the intended ford and that the recent heavy rain had raised the water level to such a degree that any stepping stones were well submerged. Faced with this prospect near the end of a walk where the alternative was to retrace one’s steps, it would have been into the water with walking poles at the ready to aid balance but lacking any desire to do the walk soaked through on a not so warm November morning, I admitted defeat and returned to the main path to look at my alternatives.

My map showed the path leading southwards up the Mosedale valley from Loweswater following the course of Mosedale Beck which was the name of the river. The most important feature I noticed on the map though was a footbridge a little under two miles from my present position. My map was a recent one which gave me high confidence that the bridge would still be there so I set off to find it.

The path was good if a little wet, and led up a wide and wild looking valley between windswept grassy hills. It does eventually join the Floutern Tarn path, another notoriously damp route that links Buttermere with the Ennerdale valley, but I would be leaving it at that point. With a sense of relief I reached the bridge and it took me over the stream which was less formidable than lower down and I followed the path on and slowly around to the right with the crags of Great Borne walling the valley ahead and to my left. My way led up the grassy slopes to my right and I presently followed a faint path that climbed, steeply at first and then more gradually until the uphill ran out and I stood on the modest grassy summit of Hen Comb.

Surrounded by views of this relatively remote area of Lakeland under grey November skies, I found a lunch spot sheltered from the wind and removed my copy of Wainwright’s Western fells from my rucksack along with a pen and placed a tick in the single remaining gap in the list of fells at its start. That was the 214th tick I had made in the seven volumes meaning that I had finished my quest to complete the Wainwrights.

It had been a journey that had taken me to all the regions of the Lake District, both to popular summits as well as the less frequented and one that had begun many years earlier, though it had only been during the last couple of years that I had decided to summit them all. Why the lowly Hen Comb as the last one? well – there had never been a plan but the Loweswater area along with a couple of unfinished Buttermere fells required an overnight stay owing to their distance from home and had simply been left until last for that reason.

Did I feel a sense of achievement? Certainly, though despite subsequent admiring comments from other hikers on the same quest, the completion of any ambition is one of personal satisfaction and only of passing interest to others, unless of course it is a “first” and there are precious few of those left! I returned the book to my rucksack and finishing my spicy bean burger wrap, shouldered my bag, said a prayer to the Lord for getting me this far and set off back the way I had come, careful to remember that the shorter way down the wide grassy ridge to the north would lead me to the awkward river crossing from earlier. Where from here? Well firstly it would back to Buttermere youth hostel where I was staying for a well earned pint and then… well wherever the trail takes me I’ll record it in these pages.

The route as described to Hen Comb from Loweswater Village and back covers a distance of about 7.5 miles or 12km with 1300 feet or 400m of ascent. The usual way when Mosedale Beck is fordable is just 5 miles (8km) and heads south up the ridge to the top. Parking can be found at Scalehill bridge a short distance east of the village or at Maggie’s Bridge to the west.

Off the Beaten Track - Wasdale to Caw Fell - the Farthest Away Mountain

2018-07-01T20:02:00.002+01:00

The recent fine weather saw me heading off to Wasdale for what had been planned as a few days cycling and camping with my cousin Brian, though plans were quickly changed when he suffered a training injury and had to bail at the last minute. Overdid it on the burpees apparently! I went to Wasdale anyway but minus the bike and headed for the hills instead. In a bid to avoid the bank holiday weekend crowds flocking to Scafell Pike and Great Gable, I opted to launch a second attempt on a hill that had defeated me on a previous occasion owing to weather and distance.

I had nicknamed Caw Fell The Farthest Away Mountain after a book I read many years ago, owing to its distance from my Wasdale camp, and its status as the remotest of all of the Wainwrights (Lakeland fells or mountains) from human habitation. The height is modest but it does lie in the empty quarter between Ennerdale Water and the uninhabited marshy tract of Blengdale - a valley that few visitors to Lakeland have even heard of let alone visited.

Looking back to Wasdale Head from the start of the route

So it was that I set out from the National Trust campsite to walk up the lane to Wasdale Head and crossed the stone bridge over Mosedale Beck immediately behind the inn. Here a good path led into Mosedale beneath the craggy ramparts of Yewbarrow, on the opposite side of the beck to the Black Sail track which leads to the pass and the youth hostel of the same name and into Ennerdale or on to Buttermere.

Looking towards Pillar at the head of Mosedale

Presently Red Pike, my first objective, could be seen ahead and well over 2000 feet above. The way to it led past a scree slope and then steeply up towards the col known as Dore Head that separates Yewbarrow from Red Pike. Going up here is hard work however you look at it and on a warm June morning it was challenging. In the upper stages the angle of the slope is a sustained 45 degrees and it's important when resting to keep hold of items such as cameras and rucksacks as retrieving them from a thousand feet down the slope is simply not an option. Thankfully the steep and unstable looking scree slope could be avoided on a path to its right and eventually Dore Head was reached where I could rest on level ground once more.

Wasdale Head and the Scafell Range from the steep section below Dore Head

From here one turns right towards Red Pike which rises in a series of grassy steps interspersed by short easy rocky sections. The main cairn on Red Pike lies at 2629 feet above the Irish Sea which was visible to the west, which is curious as the summit is just a little further on at 2707 feet. Here the much smaller cairn is perched in a splendid location atop the precipice that falls to Mosedale. Red Pike (Wasdale) by the way is not to be confused with the Buttermere Red Pike which rises just north of here across the Ennerdale valley.

The cairn on thr true summit of Red Pike is perched on the edge of nothing. Great Gable beyond

Wastwater, Black Combe (far distance) and the West Cumbria coast from Red Pike

Looking back to Red Pike from the route to Scoat Fell

From Red Pike my route lay down the broad ridge ahead and up to Scoat Fell, a direct approach is best from the depression as the path bears right towards Pillar. That is the route of the Mosedale Horseshoe which circuits via Pillar, Black Sail Pass and Kirk Fell; a fine route but not the one I was following today. The top of Scoat Fell was the day's highpoint at 2760 feet though I decided against visiting the peak of Steeple which lies ten minutes along a short narrow ridge on the Ennerdale side. If you haven't done it before it's a must - one of the finest summits in the Lake District - but I still had a long way to go and didn't want to be out in the sun for longer than needed.

Looking back along the ridge to Steeple and Scoat Fell from the summit of Haycock

From Scoat Fell I headed westwards down a wide grassy slope towards the rounded summit of Haycock. Passing the less obvious path to the left by a cairn at the lowest point, which would be my route back to Wasdale, I toiled up to the top of Haycock in a sun that was becoming more ferocious as the day went on. It was around 26-27 degrees (around 80 fahrenheit) in the valley which made a pleasant change from the norm but the uphill sections were harder going and I was glad to have done the main climb out of the valley in the cool of morning. From the stony top of Haycock the path led down the far side to grassy ground once again and skirted the craggy bluff of Little Gowder Crag well to the left. If you're a peak bagger doing the two thousanders then you have to go up there - for us doing the Wainwrights, bypassing it will do. Now it was just a case of following the wall - there is a path on both sides - all the way along to the small cairn marking the summit of Caw Fell.

Finally there - the lonely summit of Caw Fell

The descent route from the ridge towards Netherbeck, Wasdale is through this wonderful valley

This summit doesn't match Steeple or Red Pike for dramatic position but it is a place of wild beauty where the hills roll to the distance on all sides, and on a day like this it was unrivalled as a place to rest and have lunch. On a wet or misty day I would imagine it would not be so appealing. The isolation meant though that I still had a fair walk - including a second ascent of Haycock - to get back to the valley. I retraced my steps to the cairn on the col between Haycock and Scoat Fell and headed right - down into the side valley of Nether Beck where, after a pleasant downhill walk of nearly four miles I emerged at Nether Beck Bridge. This path is patchy in its upper sections though lower down it becomes much clearer while glimpses of Wastwater guide the weary walker back to civilisation.

A classic view of Lingmell, Scafell Pike and Scafell seen across Wastwater near the end of the route

In all this is a trip of just over 12 miles with 3650 feet of ascent that visits four Wainwrights; Red Pike 2707ft, Scoat Fell 2760ft, Haycock 2618ft and Caw Fell 2288ft. There is the option to add Steeple (2687ft) if you haven't been there before by adding half an hour to the walk or Yewbarrow (2058ft) by adding rather more. The ascent of the latter involves a rocky scramble from Dore Head and is probably best done separately - especially if Caw Fell is an objective.

And here's the whole walk on video...

A Grasmere Round - Four Easy Wainwrights

2018-04-17T12:24:00.002+01:00

There are not many walks in Lakeland that reach the summits of four Wainwrights with so little effort, but this route from Grasmere does just that. It's a particularly beautiful and varied walk too and the four hills it climbs are ones I had not previously visited; Steel Fell, Calf Crag, Gibson Knott and Helm Crag, so I was on new ground myself today.

South from the route to Steel Fell

Setting out from Grasmere and following the lane northwards past Ghyll Foot and Helm Side, a good path leads from the end of the road onto the south ridge of Steel Fell which rises interminably ahead. The way is without difficulty; being up grassy slopes but it is somewhat relentless... The views well compensate though, with the prospect back over Grasmere drawing the eye towards the distant Windermere which lies like a silver ribbon to the South. A much wilder prospect lies northward though, where Helvellyn dominates the scene and to the west stretch the windswept hills of Central Lakeland.

Grey shower clouds made their way out of the North West towards us and coats were donned on a couple of occasions though the bulk of their rain was dumped over the Langdales to the West and we

The rainbow on the way up Steel Fell - Helvellyn beyond

were spared getting soaked. Part way up the ridge though I was given cause to run up the hill to capture on camera a particularly vivid rainbow that appeared beyond the brow of the hill ahead though my effort was rewarded with a particularly nice photo.

The summit of Steel Fell is worth any effort involved in getting here with the view opening out along Thirlmere to the north complementing the softer southern prospect - check out the 360 degree panorama video at the end of this post.

The cold wind and the eastward progress of the rain showers that had been sweeping the Western Lakes made sitting around a less attractive prospect though so after a quick lunch we set off for the next Wainwright, Calf Crag.

It's not far to Calf Crag from Steel Fell but there was a certain amount of navigating a route around

Looking south from Steel Fell - Helm Crag central

the boggy areas that make up this empty region. The path is evident for most of the way but one must be creative for the rest! The short rise to the summit pretty much marks the end of the sogginess though and a new prospect opens up of the route onward over the small but interesting peaks of Gibson Knott and Helm Crag backed by the wooded valleys and glinting lakes of southern Lakeland.

A good path now led over to the cairn atop Gibson Knott and in time to our last Wainwright of the day Helm Crag. Despite a modest altitude, Helm Crag is one of the more celebrated fells of Lakeland, being better known as the Lion and the Lamb; a name which refers to the summit rocks when seen from Grasmere. Indeed I have looked up at this fell

North to Thirlmere and the Northern Fells from Steel Fell

countless times though today was my first ascent. The highest rocks are a little way north of the Lion and the Lamb and involve a tricky scramble to reach though to reach the Lion's head is a much easier undertaking. Even here care is needed as the other side of the rocks drop steeply so it's not advised for young children.

Having admired the view from here we set off on the short descent to Grasmere which is made by continuing along the path that soon heads steeply down into woodland and joins the valley track that heads from Easedale (and ultimately over Greenup Edge to Borrowdale in that direction) to Grasmere village through a mix of woods and fields. I summer this section is a popular destination and many head up to Helm

The route onward from Steel Fell

Crag without doing the full ridge.

Overall this was a good day out with great and varying views throughout the walk made better by the fact that it was my first visit to these hills. I especially liked the contrast between pastoral Grasmere and Steel Fell's wild uplands with the views to Thirlmere - oh and don't forget looking down from the Lion and the Lamb after so many times looking up at it!

This walk visits 4 Wainwrights; Steel Fell,Calf Crag, Gibson Knott and Helm Crag. The total distance is 12.5km or about 8 miles on good paths almost all of the way though the area between Steel Fell and Calf Crag is decidedly boggy in places. Views are varied and beautiful throughout and well compensate for any wetness!

The route on to Gibson Knott and Helm Crag from Calf Crag

The cairn on Gibson Knott with the Fairfield Range beyond

Walkers on the Lion's Head - the Lion and the Lamb on Helm Crag

Check out the 360 degree summit panorama below - impressive for a peak of such modest altitude!

Helvellyn from Wythburn by the Old Shepherds' Path

2017-09-10T19:26:00.003+01:00

I did this route to Helvellyn - which is a little known variant of one of the popular routes - last year and it was published at the time on my other blog; but as these pages are about walking in Lakeland and it was such a good day out, I felt it ought to be on here too. Well now it is. One thing to contemplate... was The Old Shepherd's Path so named because it is an old route used by shepherds or was the trail originally blazed by an elderly shepherd? Something to think about whilst climbing the last steep slope near the end...

Thirlmere from the lower part of the route

The path from Wythburn Church to the summit of Helvellyn is an old and well trodden route though it is perhaps now not as popular as the wide path via Grisedale Tarn or the more exciting but over publicised Striding Edge. In terms of variety and the beauty of the views though, this route to England’s third highest mountain is hard to beat especially if an old and little used shepherds’ track is followed. It is detailed in the Wainwright Guide The Eastern Fells though few people used it then and probably even fewer do today.

Beginning at Wythburn Church the path leads steeply up between tall pine trees with the

Higher up Skiddaw comes into view

river on the left; to cross a forestry road before leaving the sheltering trees for the open fell side above. The way ahead is never in doubt and soon enters a steep sided valley where the gradient of the path eases before climbing steeply up the right slope below crags. Soon the easy grassy slopes above are reached and the path again turns back around to the left with spectacular views northward along Thirlmere to where the prominent peak of Skiddaw stands in apparent isolation.

Soon after the steep drop offs to the left are passed a faint path leaves the main one in this direction and soon crosses a stream descending the western slopes of the mountain. The walker following this soon has the mountains to his or her self and is led roughly northward across easy slopes of tussock grass. The path fades in and out and it is apparent that it is

Back from the Old Shepherds Path towards Coniston

rarely used, soon passing a large rock that makes a comfortable rest stop with views towards the hills around Wasdale and Buttermere away to the west. This is a tranquil place on a warm day and it is worth lingering before rejoining the rest of humanity on the summit.

The way up is found by continuing around the slope below small crags and once past them heading up the slope to the right over steep but not difficult terrain. As the path is faint and practically non existent in the latter stages, this route can not be recommended in poor weather but on a day of good visibility it is a joy to follow. Presently the main path is reached and followed left

Walkers at the summit of Helvellyn

up to the summit at 3116ft or 950m above sea level – the third highest point in the Lake District. After enjoying the views I returned by the normal path – remember to branch down to the right at the fork before Nethermost Pike or you will end up at Grisedale Tarn and wonder why you never passed it on the way up. In total it’s a climb of 2550ft or just under 800m and a distance of just over 5miles/8km in total.

And here are a few more views from the summit...

East from the summit - Catstycam, Ullswater and Red Tarn

North along the ridge with Skiddaw in the distance

The Striding Edge route ascending from the other side

And back to the start with a visit to Wythburn Church

Three Wainwrights from Hartsop - Rest Dodd, Brock Crags and the Nab

2017-09-07T14:28:00.003+01:00

Today was one of those days which began as a mission to bag a couple more of the few remaining unclimbed Wainwrights on my personal list and ended up a really good day out in the hills - and that

Looking back from below the pumping station building

despite technical issues involving camera batteries. In the Lakes, every second walker I talk to seems to be doing the Wainwrights just as in Scotland the obsession is with the Munros. The one advantage of this gratuitous peak bagging though is that it does take you away from the usual routes and into new places often far from the beaten path. After all there's only so many times you can climb Scafell Pike or Ben Nevis!

The route - which was made up as I went along - began as a walk up the track from Hartsop just off the Kirkstone road near Patterdale. Staying on the north side of the beck I followed said track past the turn off for Hayes Water (this was to be the return route) and on as far as the old pumping station building. Just before the building another grassy track doubles back across the hillside giving some great views of the

Brothers Water area and Fairfield across the valley. When a large boulder is reached after the wall, a fainter path leads back again and up the steep slopes. This way - with some meandering near the top - brought me to Brock Crags the first summit of the day.

For its lowly altitude Brock Crags is a fine viewpoint and well worth the climb which while short, is steep in its latter stages. From here I followed a path that led back to the main trail to High Street that crosses the fells here. A short distance from the path, Satura Crag is worth a visit for the views it affords in all directions - especially to Boardale and to Angletarn Pikes just beyond Angle Tarn. For peak baggers who haven't already been to the Pikes, it's a short distance left or west on the main path but my route lay the other way over Rest Dodd which would be my high point of the day at 2278ft or 696m.

Brothers Water and Fairfield

From the summit of Rest Dodd I headed steeply down in a northerly direction along a path that led to the grassy plateau between Rest Dodd and the Nab. Numerous peat hags are in evidence here though keeping right avoids the worst of the bogginess and if the path is followed you should stay dry. Halfway to the Nab was a large isolated boulder - the only rock for some distance around - that I termed a "rest rock" as it was a good place for lunch. The location was extremely peaceful on what was a fine day and curious in the fact that from here one can not see the valleys or indeed any sign of human life. Only the surrounding fells are visible seeming to rise like islands in a sea of grass. Rest Dodd in particular is well seen from here.

So it was on to the summit of the Nab and another tick in the Far Eastern Fells book and a fine view

Angle Tarn, Angletarn Pikes and Place Fell from Satura Crag

of Martindale too. The Nab is something of a sea of grass too but a pleasant enough place. Even in the summer holidays you'll likely have it to yourself. It's situated in the Martindale Deer Forest and there's apparently a good chance of spotting them though I wasn't lucky in this respect today.

Returning from the Nab and back over the wide grassy section which lasts about a mile, a wall is reached just after the ascent of Rest Dodd is started. Instead of climbing all the way up to the top again I passed the wall and followed it to the right across the fell side which saved a steep climb. A faint path is presently joined that emerges on the north west side of Rest Dodd, rejoining the path I'd earlier taken to that summit.

Onward and downward then - a return over Brock crags and the way I came would be okay but to

The Nab from Rest Dodd - Ullswater far distant

vary the route I headed back to the main High Street path and turning left, followed it approximately south east towards the bulk of the Knott, leaving it to descend to Hayeswater. Incidentally; for those who may be unfamiliar with Lakeland, High Street is the highest point of the area known as the Far Eastern Fells and is named after the Roman Road that follws the ridge. There are no shops up here!

From the lonely Hayeswater reservoir in its steep sided valley, a wide track was followed all the way back to my start point at Hartsop. In all a walk - as done - of 12km or about 8 miles visiting three summits; Brock Crags (561m), Rest Dodd (696m) and the Nab (576m) though it would not add to much to also visit Angletarn Pikes and even the Knott if so desired.

I have recently started making some film clips of these outings but as my spare batteries had even

Martindale seen from the Nab

less enthusiasm than the old ones it didn't happen today. I did manage these few photos though. The film clips will appear on my new channel which will be called Pete's Tales from the Hills.

The "rest rock" in a sea of grass with Rest Dodd beyond

Wasdale Head to Scafell in Pictures

2017-04-20T18:22:00.001+01:00

The number of people hiking up Scafell Pike every summer would probably fill a football stadium but the neighboring peak of Scafell - though an equally fine expedition when the rain stays away - is far less frequented. England's second highest peak is definitely the abode of the fellwalker rather than that of the tourist. The route initially follows the same path (from Wasdale Head village green or the National Trust campsite - the paths converge shortly after where the first two photos were taken - initially following the stream of Lingmell Gill and then up the relentless slopes to Hollowstones - the wild and rock cwm below the peaks. The way to the Pike - and the crowds - branch off to the left while our route continues up over rough steep terrain to Mickledore the obvious col between Scafell and Scafell Pike at about 2650ft..

Head down the far side for a short way towards Upper Eskdale, keeping to the right which avoids a boulder field, until the gully is spotted leading up through broken crags to the right. Going up here can be wet after rain as it doubles as a stream bed but it's not boggy and we stayed dry today! The path is clear up past Foxes Tarn - which turns out to be a small pool with a rock in the middle - and on up to the summit of Scafell which at 3162ft is the second highest point in England.

If anything this route is harder than the slightly higher Pike due to the roughness of the terrain and the descent from Mickledore. The rock scenery up to the ridge is sublime and the ascent of the Foxes Tarn gully exciting but not difficult or exposed. We descended west from the summit via the Green How route which is without difficulty unless you follow our route down the steep scree back to Lingmell Gill - better to continue on down to Brackenclose and the campsite.

Total distance 10km/6.25 miles >>> Ascent 3100ft/950m >>> Descent 3100ft/950m

The Lord's Rake route was subject to rock falls some years back and has a large boulder to be negotiated. It's passable but there's always a risk of further rock falls and this route is a straightforward one. Do not be tempted to go up Broad Stand - the direct route from Mickledore unless you're an experienced rock climber - it looks short but it's a climb rather than a walk and without a belay rope a slip would not end well!

Wastwater and the Screes from early in the walk

Wasdale Head from the same place looking to Pillar and Kirkfell

Further up is the area known as Hollow Stones just below Mickledore

Mickledore separates Scafell and the Pike looking to Broad Stand

Looking up the gully towards Foxes Tarn

Looking back down the gully from just before the tarn

The summit of Scafell with the Wasdale Fells and Grasmoor far distance

Scafell Crag with Deep Ghyll Butress left and Scafell Pinnacle

The Wasdale Fells looking towards Pillar, Kirkfell and Mosedale

Looking back to Scafell Pike

The top of Deep Ghyll Butress is a fine vantage point reached by an easy scramble

A Short Walk in the Western Fells

2015-10-07T20:11:00.001+01:00

Only the seasoned Wainwright bagger and local residents of West Cumbria will ever have heard of the hill called Grike but for everyone else it's the westernmost of the Wainwrights or Lake District

The early part of the walk looking to Blake Fell

Fells, and stands next to Crag Fell whose far side rises splendidly above Ennerdale Water. In the mist and rain this area is bleak and lonely indeed but when the sun shines it reveals a side of the Lake District most tourists never see. Lonely it certainly is but that is part of its appeal.

Leaving the minor road that links Gosforth and Ennerdale Bridge I followed the track that leads into the hills from just south of Kinniside Stone Circle. The ancient monument itself is well worth a visit before setting out and if you're not walking is a worthwhile destination in itself. The track led over open fields before reaching patchy coniferous forest beyond a gate and climbing at an

easy gradient to meet another track coming up from woodland below. Crossing this trail, the open fellside was gained close to a low col and I took the left hand of two tracks in a roughly easterly direction over open grassland. After a short distance - perhaps a kilometre or so - I left the trail and crossed a stile to climb the sheep cropped turf to the left up to the large cairn on the summit of Grike.

At 488m this is no great height but its position as the westernmost of the Wainwrights affords a wide view over the West Cumbrian Plain and the Irish Sea as well as ahead where the grassland rises steadily towards the more rugged terrain of Pillar, Scoat Fell and Haycock on the horizon. Leaving the cairn I headed on down into the dip between here and Crag Fell which is slightly higher at 523m. The low ground is boggy and it's maybe better to

Pillar Scoat Fell and Haycock from the summit of Grike

return to the track which lies just beyond the communications mast right of the dip but I didn't and got slightly wet.

The top of Crag Fell is impressive for a lesser fell and commands an eye catching panorama of the head of Ennerdale above a steep drop to Ennerdale Water. It is well worth journeying the short distance beyond the cairn to the next minor summit where the view is even better and brought to mind the walk along the top of the Screes from Whin Rigg to Illgill Head above nearby Wastwater.

These lower hills often provide an experience in excess of their stature and these two remote and

The wild head of Ennerdale from Crag Fell

seldom visited summits are no exception though today the weather contributed to the experience with blue skies and far off views forming a backdrop to the empty miles of Lakeland's western rim. What had started as a mere peak bagging exercise to achieve two more ticks towards finishing the Wainwrights became a fine walk in itself.To return I merely headed south from Crag Fell to join the original track further up and follow it back to where I had started for a total outing of just under 9km or 6 miles.

The High Level Route to Pillar - a Venture into Mountaineering

2015-09-04T21:07:00.002+01:00

Pillar has always been one of my favorite mountains of the Lake District but for some reason I had never walked the so called High Level Route until a week or so ago which was a shame as it turned out to be one of the best walks in the area. The trail leaves Black Sail Pass; the col that links Wasdale Head with Ennerdale, and initially follows the usual route to Pillar along the first part of the ridge. After Looking Stead which is worth a visit in itself as a viewpoint, a cairn is seen a short way up the path to Pillar. Here a path leads off to the right and follows an exciting route across the rugged mountainsides overlooking the wild upper reaches of Ennerdale and leading to the summit above the great bastion of Pillar Rock.

This route ventures into mountaineering territory though if the path is kept to it remains easy throughout.and is undoubtedly the finest way to Pillar. I wouldn't do it in the snow without the right gear as there are a few places where it wouldn't be good to slip but the path is easy to follow most of the way This is very much a walk on Lakeland's wild side with the unpopulated Ennerdale being below throughout and despite it being a great route I had it to myself today.. The track along Ennerdale makes a great bike ride (MTB) and there's a link at the end of the post to that and also on the route to Black Sail itself.

This is a beautiful bridge (behind the pub at Wasdale Head) but don't cross it as its the wrong way - carry straight on and bear left over a stile into Mosedale for the way to Black Sail.

Looking down to Ennerdale from the first part of the High Level Route - the River Liza and the track to the Black Sail Youth Hostel can clearly be seen. That track is great on a mountain bike.

The way is usually clear and always easy - as long as you don't leave the path...

Looking back along the trail from some way before Robinson's Cairn - the path can clearly be seen with Looking Stead (left) and Great Gable in the distance

From Robinson's Cairn there's a wonderful view of the wild upper reaches of Ennerdale with Great Gable at its head

Ahead from Robinson's Cairn with the 200m high bulk of Pillar Rock barring the way. The route goes up the low rock ridge in the foreground and across the ledge top left - the Shamrock Traverse.

The start of the Shamrock Traverse - it looks daunting from below but the way is wide and not too exposed though You would need to gear up if it was icy.

Above the Shamrock Traverse there are great views back over the top of the Rock to the High Stile Range

Looking back down to the Rock and Ennerdale 2000 feet below from near the summit - High stile and Grasmoor beyond

The summit of Pillar 2928ft is level ground in contrast to the route we've just followed; Great Gable, Great End Scafell Pike and Scafell beyond.

The way down to Wasdale (or Ennerdale) is by the usual route to Pillar. Here's a link to the bike trail through Ennerdale and the first part of the Four Valleys Walk describes the way to Black Sail Pass from Wasdale.

Pete Buckley Sept 2015
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The Lake District Four Valleys Walk

2015-04-24T20:47:00.000+01:00

The approximate route taken without diversions

The topography of the western Lake District is so aligned that four of the seven main valleys converge on the relatively small area between Great Gable and Honister Pass. The advantage of this to the hiker is that these four valleys can be linked by a circular walk through some of the finest scenery in the National Park that is no more than a longish day's outing in the fells.

This route which I've called here the Four Valleys Walk leaves Wasdale Head to cross Black Sail into Ennerdale before skirting the very upper reaches of the Buttermere valley and returning over Brandreth and Green Gable to Styhead Tarn in Borrowdale. From here the return is over Styhead Pass to Wasdale and the start point. My deviation to the fell called Base Brown - the only Wainwright in the region I had not climbed - added 2 miles and considerable ascent but a better diversion would be Great Gable if you haven't been up there before. Without deviations it's a walk of 15k or about nine and a half miles and an ascent of 3700ft. Great Gable adds 500 feet of ascent and perhaps half a mile (you can return from the summit directly to Styhead) while my version was eleven and a half miles and 4200 feet of ascent which fully justified the pint in the Head afterwards.

If some of the photos look as though they were taken on different days it's because they were - my camera died and I was forced to dig out old pictures along the route and no - I did not spend the whole day in the Wasdale Head Hotel!

Pillar and Mosedale in early morning light

There was something satisfying about being up at 6AM in a Wasdale Head that I seemed to have completely to myself. A short breakfast and I headed up past the pub and along the bank of the stream - the route here goes left in front of the shop, past the bar entrance at the side and right along the river bank - until I left the valley track and turned left into Mosedale with Pillar at its head and the seemingly unbroken wall of Yewbarrow and Red Pike on the left. For a while at least I was alone as the early light painted the fells in rich reds and golds that revealed every fold of the hills.

The path soon steepened as the climb to Black Sail was reached and hard work replaced serenity. After crossing the stream I climbed steeply to gain the upper valley before the gradient relented. The line of sunlight moved steadily lower until it reached me as I gained Black Sail Pass. Here I left the Wasdale Valley and entered the wilds of Ennerdale; the upper reaches of which are only accessible to the walker and the mountain biker as no road extends up here.

Walking up Mosedale from Wasdale Head at dawn

After pausing to admire the sublime scenery of the pass - if you head a short way north west along the ridge to Looking Stead the views are even better - I followed the path down in warm sunlight to the wooden footbridge that crosses the River Liza in the valley floor. The valley here is still a thousand feet above sea level so its a short descent and a nice one in almost any weather. This area is one of my favorite in the Lakes and always reminds me more of the remote Scottish highlands than the relatively busy Lake District but the hordes don't come here - they would have to walk too far from their cars! After the bridge which is a short distance up the path from the Youth Hostel I headed right towards Great Gable at the head of Ennerdale. For this walk it's essential to follow one of the paths up to the left before a prominent ridge is reached that rises ahead to Green Gable. The path to the right of this is the route to Great Gable but that's another walk.

Black Sail Pass is the route into Ennerdale from Wasdale

Presently I joined a good path that climbed steeply in a shady gully to gain the edge of the plateau above. The route isn't obvious from nearer the Youth Hostel but it becomes clear as the aforementioned ridge is approached. From up here on the high ground connecting Haystacks with Brandreth and Grey Knotts a new vista opened up of the Buttermere valley with Grasmoor beyond and following the path roughly eastwards past a fence took me into the heathery upper reaches of that valley towards Fleetwith Pike and Honister. That is where this path heads to but only as far as where it met the Honister to Great Gable path.

My first actual summit of the morning - and it was still early - was Brandreth which I reached after 3000 feet of ascent and sat down to enjoy the views down to Buttermere and Crummock Water on one side and my final valley of Borrowdale on the other. From here it was just a case of following the wide easy ridge towards Green Gable though I deviated to Base Brown which was the one

The beautiful upper part of Ennerdale is 6 miles from the road

"Wainwright" of the area I had not climbed. It was a a nice place for lunch but further than it looked and meant I had ascended precisely 4000 feet by the time I'd reached Green Gable. The path up on the left side of the ridge led on to Great Gable but I had no need to go up again - it's a steep and stony climb but not hard and well worth doing if you haven't been up before though there are easier ways up Great Gable than trekking through four Lakeland valleys!

My way led finally down to the left which again was very rough and stony at first but soon met a path constructed of stone steps that made the going easier down to Styhead Tarn about a thousand feet lower in the Upper part of the fourth valley - Borrowdale. In places the river must run a little way underground as it can be heard out of sight below the stones - frustrating if you had run out of water on a warm day. The path

The path crosses the River Liza just above the Youth Hostel

here to the left goes to Seathwaite while my route led a little way up to Styhead Pass and on down back to Wasdale Head which comes into sight just after the pass indicating that it is all downhill from here. Once in the valley, the path passes the Church of St Olaf which is reputedly England's smallest before emerging at the Green just past the small campsite. From here the pub is not far...

High Stile and Grasmoor frame the Buttermere Valley

Pete Buckley April 2015

Pillar and Ennerdale from the summit of Green Gable

Styhead Tarn in the upper reaches of Borrowdale with Great End beyond

Back into Wasdale Head from Styhead Pass after coming full circle

Hiking in the Lake District - Across England's Highest Peak

2014-05-01T17:06:00.000+01:00

Slightly out of breath from the steep climb we stopped by the stream that cascaded down from Great Gable and decided to fill our water bottles with the cold refreshing water. Since we had crossed the wooden footbridge down below, the level valley path from Wasdale Head past the tiny church of st Olaf and the sheepfolds of Burnthwaite had become a relentless stony climb. It's one I've done many times though but this was different because I was taking my eldest son Josh up England's highest peak Scafell Pike after a camp in the valley and it brought to mind the many times I had followed my own father up these same trails.

Our objective appeared from the mists across the valley in the early morning light as we watched; sporting a few remnants of winter snow above the wild and craggy confines of Sty Head. It was good to have the place to ourselves and we set off again towards the top of the pass which was not far now.

Our first view of Scafell Pike from the path to Styhead Pass

Sty Head is as much a crossroads in the hills as a pass with the path we were on linking Wasdale and Borrowdale, while a good path heads right (roughly south east) towards Langdale. Up to the left is the path to Great Gable from where steep and rough trails lead down towards Ennerdale,

Styhead Tarn occupies an idyllic place in the hills just below the pass of the same name. The fell beyond is Green Gable

Sprinkling Tarn at 2000 ft on the route has the dubious honour of being the rainiest place in England

We followed the right hand path past the idyllic Sty Head Tarn and up below the dark crags of Great End to Sprinkling Tarn at almost 2000 feet. This lonely stretch of water has the dubious honour of being the wettest place in England and though it wasn't raining at the moment the early sun appeared to be having second thoughts. After the tarn where the path forks, the right one is taken for Scafell Pike; the other being the route to Langdale. This section is particularly easy being on constructed trails up moderate gradients heading firstly in a southerly direction to Esk Hause and then curving more to the West around Great End to a high col that offers views back down to Sty Head and a sense that one is getting somewhere.

A false sense of security is given to all unfamiliar with the mountain by this easy section; Scafell Pike is still around a mile away across some of the roughest ground in the Lake District. Up to the left (roughly south west) from the col soon leads to the boulder fields; the marker cairns offer a way that avoids the worst of the boulder hopping but even though I have been here many times Istill had to look carefully for the route. The dip down to Little Narrowcove and the final steep ascent to the Pike was almost welcome after the rocks and soon we stood on the highest ground in England, 3210 feet or 978m above sea level.

Josh had almost made it - this is on the rough section with the summit beyond

At 3210ft or 978m Scafell Pike is the highest mountain in England. The peak visible on the right is Great Gable(2949ft/899m) with Pillar and Kirk Fell on the left

For the route down we followed the well marked path north-westwards towards Lingmell Col which is good for the Corridor Route back to Styhead or the so called "Brown Tongue" route which is the shortest way to Wasdale Head from the summit and a long stony descent followed, passing the turn off on the right for the Corridor. The path then curved around and down to the left onto easier grassy terrain as we had opted for Brown Tongue which algthough a little tedious in ascent offers a quick way down and meant we would have traversed the peak and come down the other side. Once on the constructed pathway which consists of many hundreds of stone steps the way is obvious - the only choices being at the bottom of the steep slope after crossing the river where the main path carries on (to the National Trust campsite) and a path heads off across the slope to the right. This goes to the Green and Wasdale Head Hotel and was our way back to the car.

From just below the summit we looked back down to Styhead Tarn that we passed earlier. Great End is on the right

Looking back up to Mickledore the ridge that separates Scafell and Scafell Pike from the region known as Hollow Stones on the route down

A welcome sight at the end of the walk though the photo was actually taken from the Green as we set off

The route as we walked it is a circular one of 12.5km or about eight miles and just over 3000ft (914m) of ascent and descent that effectively makes a traverse or crossing of Scafell Pike. The terrain is excessively rough and stony for most of the way and will seem further than 8 miles but it's worth the effort on a day with a view and is within the capabilities of most reasonably fit people. Wasdale Head has a couple of campites and B&b's as well as the hotel which is a welcome sight after the walk. Allow a good 5-6 hrs with stops.

Pete Buckley April 2014

Walking in the Lake District - Grasmere, Easedale and Tarn Crag

2014-03-31T20:57:00.000+01:00

The secluded valley of Easedale just a stone's throw from bustling Grasmere is a popular destination for tourists who walk up into the hills from the village to Easedale Tarn; yet until very recently it was the only valley of any size in the Lake District that I'd never visited.

So taking advantage of a weather window - well it had stopped raining - I set out from Grasmere's Butharlyp How Youth Hostel to go take a look at Easedale Tarn and ascend Tarn Crag which is an interesting looking sub-2000 Wainwright that rises directly above it.


Leaving Gramere the path heads through the lower part of Easedale with Tarn crag seen ahead

The path from Grasmere lies firstly along a lane conveniently named Easedale Road that heads past the Youth hostel and on towards the base of Helm Crag (aka the Lion and the Lamb). The path is signed off to the left through a gate and over the beck after perhaps half a mile where the route to Helm Crag carries straight on. Just a short way through some woods and the view ahead is of the Central Fells at the head of Easedale.

At a stone bridge on the right there is the choice of crossing the beck though I kept straight on - both trails lead to Easedale Tarn and fording the river is easy at the outflow of the tarn.

The path makes a steady ascent from the flat valley floor, following the beck which is called Sour Milk Gill, past an impressive waterfall and on up to Easedale Tarn. The tarn lies in a rugged hollow in the fells that contrasts finely with the pastoral nature of the lower part of the valley.

The wild looking surroundings of Easedale Tarn contrasts with the valley below

This is a worthwhile destination for a short and easy day out but I crossed the outflow at some stepping stones and journeyed a little way around its right hand side picking up a faint path heading up the steep slopes above the water. The path became clearer higher up and as the gradient eased; emerged on the wide grassy ridge above. I now headed up to the left with the peak of Tarn Crag rising ahead.

A faint path leads up the wide grassy ridge towards Tarn Crag whose summit is the obvious peak straight ahead. The route is easier and shorter than it looks in the picture!

Tarn Crag; despite its modest altitude is of an imposing appearance but the easy path heads up between its two peaks - the highest being the pointed one on the right - and doubles back to gain the cairn which is perched on a fine eyrie overlooking Easedale and the Grasmere valley. Here the wind blew harder and the mist had now come in so I ventured back below the crest to eat my lunch on a comfortable rock just below the ridge separating the two summits.

Looking towards Fairfield and Helvellyn from my lunch place just below the top of Tarn Crag.

In clearer weather the views would impress from here but today everything above about 1800 ft was obscured though Easedale Tarn and the Grasmere valley made a pleasant backdrop to my downhill walk before the rain once more made its return. At least it had the decency to wait until I was back at Grasmere.

The lonely situation of Easedale Tarn is clear from the walk back down Tarn Crag

I liked this spot so finished my lunch here - it was a short way around the tarn looking towards the outflow where the paths emerge

The walk in total is 6 miles return (four if you only go as far as the tarn) and reaches a maximum height of 1801 feet. The tarn lies at just under 1000 feet. Grasmere has a profusion of hotels, guest houses and B&B's though I stayed at the youth hostel which is a five minute walk from the village.

Pete Buckley March 2014

Walking in the Lake District - Buttermere and Haystacks

2013-10-08T21:17:00.001+01:00

Despite a modest altitude of 597m or 1962 feet; Haystacks; which rises above Buttermere, is probably one of the most popular ascents in all the Lake District. The fell's popularity is well deserved and stems from its rugged nature and easy access from Buttermere as well as the fact that it was among the favorites of Wainwright; whose guidebooks to the Lakes are still - and probably always will be - without compare. The summit with its little tarns and rugged outcrops was in fact the author's final resting place.

Haystacks on the left seen from the Buttermere lakeside path

I wondered then on a recent trip to Buttermere, why I had never climbed Haystacks and so set out to remedy the situation. A lakeside path circuits Buttermere so from the village either shore can be taken with the northern side being my choice today. A short section of road led to Gatesgarth Farm (where you can park for a reasonable £3 at the time of writing) but this would miss out the beautiful shoreline views and Haystacks is not a long walk anyway.

From Gatesgarth a wide track crosses fields and circuits the southern side of the lake but my track branched steeply uphill and off to the left climbing steadily towards Scarth Gap; the pass to neighboring Ennerdale.

Looking across the steep slopes of Haystacks from the Scarth Gap path

Climbing high above the head of the Buttermere Valley with the thin grey ribbon of the Honister Road below, the bulk of Fleetwith Pike opposite and the castle-like crags of Haystacks up ahead, I followed the wide path up to Scarth Gap. a short way down the other side is the Black Sail Youth Hostel in a wonderfully wild spot near the head of Ennerdale and over six miles from the road but my way led up to the left - and seemed to coincide with everyone else's.


And looking back downtowards Buttermere from a little further on. Grasmoor in the background

The path from here to Haystacks - despite being busy - is an interesting and occasionally exciting route. The route is never in doubt and winds its way between crags and up little gullies with the occasional easy scramble, to quickly gain the summit plateau. You are up close and personal with some very rough and steep terrain but if the path is stuck to there are no difficulties.

The summit of Haystacks consists of a short rocky ridge raised slightly above the plateau. The picture was taken from the cairn though both ends are of roughly equal height.

From my lunch stop on the top, Green Gable, Great Gable and Kirk Fell across the top of Ennerdale

Considering the relative height of this peak in relation to its neighbors, the summit views are impressive to say the least. Great Gable and Pillar along with the wild upper reaches of Ennerdale impress the most while High Crag at the end of the High Stile Ridge appears of vast proportions across Scarth Gap. Despite the picnicking families I secured a comfortable rock just below the cairn which was a great spot for lunch.

Ascent 500m/1640ft >>> Descent 500m/1640ft >>> How far? 10.4km/6.5 miles

Distance is from Buttermere Youth Hostel

Pete Buckley October 2013

Walking in the Lake District - a Return to Scafell Pike

2013-06-20T20:51:00.000+01:00

One Spring day thirty something years ago, two boys set out with their fathers to climb England's highest mountain. Myself, Dad, Cousin Brian and Uncle Gordon headed up the Sty Head track from Wasdale before following the trail passing beside Sprinkling Tarn beneath the gaunt and sombre crags of Great End. All were going well and the intrepid party were confident of success when as happens all too often in the
Lakes; the weather had the last say.

So it was that at our high point of just under 2400 feet by the shelter below Esk Hause, in rapidly deteriorating conditions, the decision was made to abandon the quest and bring to a close my first real experience of fellwalking.

Much more recently on an October morning when cloud hung about the high summits, just two of the original party set off once again from Wasdale to complete the route we had started years earlier. This time I acted as guide having climbed the Pike many times while Brian made the trip in memory of his dad - my Uncle Gordon - who sadly is no longer with us.

The weather was still fairly clear as we set off on the Sty Head path from Wasdale below the peak of Great Gable

As we reached the top of the pass Styhead Tarn comes into view. the path down that side goes to Seathwaite in Borrowdale though our route lay up to the right

Brian on the path above Styhead Pass as we approached Sprinkling Tarn.This trail goes to Langdale... eventually. Great Gable is the mountain behind.

At almost 2000 feet Sprinkling Tarn is the higher of the two tarns on this route. It has the dubious honor of being the wettest place in England

The upper part of the route to Scafell Pike leads across a rough and stony landscape between the 3000 foot high subsidiary summits of Ill Crag and Broad Crag

At last the top! Looking out over Morecambe Bay from the highest mountain in England

And so we had climbed the mountain by the route we had set out on the first time around - the easiest way though not the shortest - by Esk Hause. Our return was by the Corridor Route which is a fine path and links Styhead Pass with Lingmell Col below and to the North of the summit.The paths are easy but rough in places and we were surprised at the number of people still going up at this late hour and as it turned out, our own adventure was not yet over.

Descending the corridor route just beyond the deep chasm of Piers Ghyll. we became aware of people clearly in some distress. They turned out to be a father and son team who on attempting to descend the slopes down to the Left had got into difficulty. They were able luckily to rejoin us when they spotted where we were on the right path.

For those who know this route we were just below the short rocky step that you scramble down when climbing from Sty Head and the way was not so obvious in descent where the step has to be climbed. It was marked with a cairn but in the fading light and worsening weather (that's why there's no more photos) the two had missed it. The step could appear daunting from below but there is an easy path ten or fifteen feet above!

Brian led the way and I followed the man and boy - who was a similar age to the two boys at the start of this story - up the rocks to the easy path above where they were back on safe ground. At least our return to Scafell Pike had done some good. This route is a safe corridor through a maze of crags and deep gullies so it is always best to stick to the main path unless you know it really well!

Pete Buckley June 2013

Start and finish at The Green, Wasdale Head >>> How Far? 14.5km/9 miles >>> Total Ascent? 3200ft/975m >>> Highpoint Scafell Pike 3210ft/978m

Blencathra Without the Crowds

2011-10-18T20:35:00.001+01:00

The Glenderamackin Valley is frequented by many times more sheep than walkers yet it provides not only a varied and interesting way into the heart of the Caldbeck Fells but also a quiet and equally varied route to the summit of Blencathra. Having been thwarted a couple of weeks before by weather that suggested building an ark might be a good idea, I set out again on a morning when yes - it was raining once again.

A wide path leaves Mungrisdale in a westerly direction then a south westerly one following the fast flowing River Glenderamackin whose level was noticeably lower than last time. My route followed the river - ignoring the more obvious paths branching right up the hillside - and after a small footbridge enters the river valley proper. It's good remote country this and you won't see many people. Steep green hills rise from the stony bed of the beck and today mist crowned their tops though the rain was at last easing off.

The path crosses a river descending from the right after about a mile - this had required thought last time to stay dry - but today was just a case of walking across on stepping stones. Another path left to climb the fells on the right, this one going to Bannerdale Crags up the interesting East Ridge - next time - but I kept on following the Glenderamackin towards its source.

The course of the valley turned back around to the right as the path climbed steadily and the popular path to Blencathra from Scales appeared on its opposite side occupied by several parties marching towards their objective. By crossing a wooden bridge just below, this path can be joined if so desired. If the weather is as bad as it was the last time I was here and the aim is a shorter walk then climbing to the ridge opposite and turning left will take you back along Souther Fell which is a fine route and leads back to Mungrisedale as a ridge walk to contrast with the valley trek to this point.

Now heading more to the North West, the path continues up towards the jagged outline of Foule Crag and Sharp Edge into wilder terrain to emerge after a short climb at the Glenderamackin Col and the wide open spaces of the Caldbeck Fells. Turning left, a steeper ascent up a windblown ridge brought me easily up to the interesting peak of Foule Crag just as an icy wind blew away the mists to gradually reveal the spectacular far reaching views Blencathra is known for. A short walk across a cold grassy col brought me to the fell's highest summit known as Halls Fell Top (868m/2847ft) where the mountain's fascinating ridge network was laid out below.

Return was by the same route though in the interests of peak bagging - I am finishing off the Wainwrights List - I diverted to the fell known to those who have heard of it at all as Mungrisdale Common. The name does not inspire an ascent and if Wainwright had not included it in his guidebooks then no-one would ever go there but the faint path over the breezy tussock country was a pleasant walk - if a little damp in places - and was worth the detour. In fact on a summers' day when the crowds and all their dogs are trooping up Blencathra this lonely corner of the Caldbeck Fells would be a good place to have one's lunch. If you're tempted, head north from the vicinity of a stone shelter by a small subsidiary peak between Foule Crag and Glenderamackin Col.

A curious thing about the "ascent" of Mungrisdale Common - altitude 633m/2077ft - is that while with most hills or mountains you walk or climb up to the top, here you walk down to the cairn! It's about a mile each way.

From the col you can easily visit Bowscale Fell and Bannerdale Crags - two other Wainwrights - returning by one of the paths we passed earlier to Mungrisdale but today time was getting on so I didn't. The walk in total is 15km or just over 9 miles return to Blencathra or with my diversion today it's 11 miles exactly.

Pete Buckley October 2011

The view down from the summit is of the ridge known as Narrow Edge - here's an account of the ascent - it's easier than it looks!

The Empty Hills - A Walk from Birker Fell to Green Crag

2011-10-07T14:47:00.001+01:00

In the south western corner of the Lake District between Eskdale and the valley of the Duddon there lies a relatively unvisited part of the National Park. It is a remote region of rough tussock country, gnarled crags and scattered tarns and when the mist is down on the fells - which it frequently is - feels as far from civilisation as anywhere in the world.

You won't see many walkers here - in fact on this hike to Green Crag I saw nobody at all - and if Wainwright had not listed this fell in his classic guidebooks to Lakeland then it is doubtful anyone would ever ascend it. That's a shame because despite its lowly altitude of 1602 feet, it is a fine rocky summit with some wonderful views across a landscape that is little touched by our destructive activities.

My route began from the Birker Fell Road which links Ulpha in the Duddon Valley with Eskdale. The best place to leave the road is just past the cattle grid that leads to open fellside (direction Eskdale) and the line to take is to initially follow the wall that runs uphill approximately in a north easterly direction. There is a faint path that fades in and out of existence but the aim is to keep to the higher ground which is less boggy than lower down. I say less boggy meaning that it is still boggy but not so mush as a direct route would be.

Where the wall goes its separate way to the right we keep to the highest ground on a wide grassy ridge. Again the path is sometimes in evidence - sometimes not - and was probably made by sheep in any case. The first summit reached is Great Worm Crag which today I bypassed on the right having been before, where Green Crag comes into view ahead seen in the picture on the right.

It looks a long way off but is actually less than 1 mile though anyone making a beeline for it across easy looking grassy slopes will get wet. Drier ground is found by first heading approximately ENE to White How then north to Green Crag. The dampness is easily forgotten with the views back to the Duddon Estuary and into the lonely country ahead where Scafell and Scafell Pike rise beyond Green Crag's rocky looking peaks.

From White How a pleasant grassy promenade takes the few walkers who come here around the back of green Crag to where a path climbs to the left finishing with an easy little scramble to finish at the summit. Arriving here is almost unexpected as it looked a lot further from Great Worm Crag and there is time to relax and enjoy the views of the Scafell Range to the North which today I had to myself.

The walk from the road is 2.5 miles so it's about five miles return - a good way to spend an afternoon.

Pete Buckley August 2011

Fairfield by Deepdale and Cofa Pike

2011-09-20T16:47:00.000+01:00

The best known and most popular walking route on Fairfield is almost certainly the Fairfield Horseshoe from Ambleside or Rydal but while this is undoubtedly a great day out, it doesn't venture onto the mountain's unseen northern face - it's finest asset.

Here dark and forbidding crags stand guard over the lonely fastnesses of Deepdale and shattered screes replace the sheep cropped turf of the Ambleside slopes. This is a place that has changed little in a thousand years - the home of the raven and the buzzard. It is places like these that keep us coming back.

This walk begins at Bridgend between Patterdale and Brothers Water and covers 14km with some rough steep sections around the head of Deepdale and Cofa Pike. On a weekend when the car park near Brothers water was almost full I saw only one other walker for the length of Deepdale which shows it is not frequented by the crowds.

Leaving the car park I walked north along the road as far as Bridgend where I turned left down a lane marked with a footpath sign. Where this bends right you turn left again through a gate before the row of houses to follow a track firstly past Deepdale Hall Farm then - some distance on - Wall End. Here the path crossed a stream and headed into the unpopulated valley ahead.

As the path rounded an intervening slope the rugged northern side of Fairfield comes into view ahead. Deepdale Hause is the col on the right with Cofa Pike above. The summit was still in cloud.

The path follows the right bank (when ascending) of the river through a level marshy area before beginning a steeper ascent through a region that looks like a geography lesson about the Ice Age; both U-shaped and hanging valleys, moraines, boulders (known as erratics) left by retreating ice - Deepdale has it all but we don't have to try and remember how these things got here - just enjoy the view!

Geography field trip over, the route ascends steeply to one of those so called hanging valleys - a lonely
dale high above the lower one enclosed by the crags of Fairfield with the steep slopes of St Sunday Crag
rising to the right. The way out of here becomes apparent as we reach its head along a rough path.

The path fades as it begins to climb again where there are a choice of ways to gain the ridge above. The obvious gully on the left leading up just to the right of Cofa Pike looks steep - probably because it is - and my route lay further to the right nearer the col linking to St Sunday Crag where there were vestiges of a path and the crags could be avoided. I don't think Deepdale Hause has been used as a pass for many years and finding the way up to it would be dangerous in mist.

The last part up to the ridge is the steepest part of the route and a shelving path is met leading to the ridge itself without difficulty. Cofa Pike looks daunting from here but it's a fun walk up a path. The scrambles are on the crest and can be avoided if so desired.

The ridge gained we meet the broad path from St Sunday Crag - that's my favorate route up Fairfield - and are greeted with this view of Dollywaggon Pike, Nethermost Pike and Helvellyn across Grisedale. We turn left at this point but if you didn't know that then you need to think about getting the map out!

The path ascends steeply over Cofa Pike - follow the crest at the top if you like scrambling - and on up to Fairfield's flat summit at 2863 feet or 873m - the route's high point.

The next photo shows the view from just past the summit of Fairfield, looking towards the start point near Brothers Water, itself hidden behind the intervening ridge which is known as Hartsop Above How. This ridge also offers a fine route down to finish at the road half a mile beyond the start point.

To descend this way follow the path roughly ENE down from the next summit of Hart Crag. Note: The start of this way down descends between crags and is easy as long as the path is not lost so the advice of many good stories - do not leave the path - holds true here! Dangerous in mist - do not try! The descent along Hartsop above How is easy and enjoyable all the way down with stunning views of Dovedale. This way is probably better than the one I did today but I had already done it previously.

For today's route follow the path up and over Hart Crag which rises ahead. There is a wide and usually popular path following the Fairfield Horseshoe - and descend the rough slopes on the far side to a grassy plateau between Hart Crag and Dove Crag. Near the low point between the 2 fells saunter off to the left towards where a prominent cairn is seen in the distance. People will doubtless think you are going the wrong way but beyond the cairn a faint path is found which becomes more pronounced lower down.

The start of this path is not obvious but it is there and it leads to a hidden grassy hollow containing a large boulder which is a wonderful and quiet spot to stop for a while - if the sun is out that is - and the view of Dovedale from its eastern edge is sublime.
The hollow lies above steep ground and the path heads down a gully below the rock wall of Dove Crag on the right. Stone steps have been placed to facilitate progress as this route used to be excessively loose and rough. The following picture shows the view down the gully twards the wild upper part of Dovedale. Once down the steep section a choice of ways is found - to cross the river or not?

Both lead to the farm of Hartsop Hall and on to Brothers Water but the left hand path is more direct following the slope down while the other - across the river - descends into woodland and through Dovedale itself. Both are okay but I guess if time is no issue the valley one is more interesting - if you're in a hurry keep left. The valley path initially fords the stream but if this looks dodgy as after heavy rain which is frequent here then there is a footbridge a little further on.

Pete Buckley May 2011

The Eastern Edge of Lakeland - a Circuit of Longsleddale

2011-03-14T12:58:00.012+00:00

Along the eastern boundaries of Lakeland between the high fells and the Shap road there lies a remote hill country that sees few visitors compared to the better known areas to the West. Only peak baggers and walkers who like solitude would recognise the names of Tarn Crag, Harrop Pike and Grey Crag but while the region may lack the spectacular scenery of Wasdale Head and the Buttermere valley, it does have a charm of its own.

The only road to venture up here is the 5 mile single track lane to Sadgill at the head of Longsleddale; itself reached from the A6 just north of Kendal and it is from Sadgill that this walk starts and finishes. For the Wainwright bagger the tally is 5 - the first 2 of which I had not previously done myself - and the walk is effectively a horseshoe around the head of Longsleddale lasting ten and a half miles that sets off through the lonely country to the East of the valley and finishes on the more familiar ridge of Harter Fell and Kentmere Pike to the West.

The parking area is at the road end just before the bridge - I don't know of a bus up here - and the route begins through the gate on its eastern side. Please take care not to block the gates or track as space is limited especially at weekends. There is no clear path on the other side of the wall but make for the gap in the wall that is visible above and to the left.

Beyond the second wall a faint path climbed the steep fellside ahead skirting around to the right of the rocky outcrop above and ascending a shallow gully. At the top of this the gradient eased and there was soon a third wall across my path but with no gap. Here I followed the path to the right alongside the stone wall until an opportunity arose for climbing it - which I duly did. I needn't have done so because a little further on a stile crosses it in any case.

From the stile a path leads up the hill on the far side of the wall - where it is unclear keep left towards the highest ground which is known as Great How. From here an obvious track makes its way across the undulating terrain ahead. The first summit - Grey Crag - is ahead and slightly to the right and the path does make its way in this direction in front of the peak before turning back left to the summit. This avoids some steep rough ground that a beeline would cross.

The summit of Grey Crag - the easternmost of the Wainwrights - is an isolated spot as one could find in the Lake District and I was not surprised to have it to myself. Even the sheep were elsewhere. Mist hid the fells to the West and the most eye catching view was that of the Howgills to the South East.

The way to Tarn Crag is a case of following the faint path from here towards where a fence is seen on the far side of the summit. A distant stone pillar was visible to the east across a 2000 foot high plateau of tussock country that seemed to mark the true edge of the high country so I diverted towards it. The cairn is on nearby Harrop Pike about half a mile diversion eastwards from the fence and it provides extensive views over the Shap Fells and the Pennines. If you were trekking cross country to the Shap Road (A6) this is the way you would come.

A note for peak baggers; Harrop Pike is not a Wainwright but is a two thousander just in case the decision to visit it rests with such things, but it's an easy walk that adds less than a mile to the route today and on a warm sunny day it would make a great lunch stop.

Returning to the fence it was just a case of following the path north down into a marshy gap then back up a gradual climb to Tarn Crag where there was no view. A stone tower adorns this fell too - just to the west of the highest point but it's a much more substantial construction than the cairn on Harrop Pike.

There are crags to the West of Tarn Crag's summit so to access the Gatescarth Pass track we must head north again. In the end because of the visibility I followed the clear path all the way to the col with Branstree instead of looking for the short cut down along a stream. There was no path that way in any case. I soon picked up the track from Mosedale and followed it down to the bridleway.

When the Gatescarth route is met we turn right and follow the wide track steeply up to the top of the pass where - just after a gate - another obvious path branches left to ascend Harter Fell. Carrying on will take you down to Mardale and Haweswater.

I followed the wide route up towards Harter Fell. There had been a metre of snow the last time I was up here which is probably why I didn't remember the path being like this. I followed it to the top where - yes there was no view again. That's a shame because the view of Haweswater from Harter Fell is just superb - the best place is an area of rocks to the right of the path just before the first summit is reached. The true summit is almost another half a mile after this. There was no view there either.

Now I was on the way back - and it was nearly all downhill from here. An obvious path leads south then south east to make the small climb to Kentmere Pike before continuing down the gentle slope to Shipman Knotts. The higher ground to the left of the path between these 2 fells is the top of Goat Scar and is well worth a visit - in better visibility - for the views of Longsleddale.

After Shipman Knotts the terrain changes again and the descent becomes steeper and rockier than the route so far. The path descends beside a wall then crosses a marshy plateau before making a steep descent towards the Sadgill-Kentmere bridleway. It isn't quite a scramble but as close as this route gets. When the bridleway is reached we turn left back to Sadgill which is not far - less than a mile downhill.

Pete Buckley Mar 2011

Summits: Grey Crag 638m >>> Harrop Pike 637m >>> Tarn Crag 664m >>> Harter Fell 778m >>> Kentmere Pike 730m >>> Shipman Knotts 587m

Essentials >>> Up 950m >>> down 950m >>> How Far? 17km >>> Start and finish at Sadgill Longsleddale >>> more walks and hikes

A Walk in the Rain - 2 Wainwrights from Newlands

2011-02-16T18:26:00.011+00:00

The long days of summer when the trail stretches away ahead until the golden evening dresses the hills in patterns of light and shade and the westering sun lights the path homewards are the truly memorable ones. They shine like a beacon in our minds through the dark of winter and bring us back to the hills time and time again as if we are searching for some half remembered place in a dream.

Today at Newlands Hause though was not one of them. Driven before a westerly gale, the rain drifted in watery veils across the open fellsides and a grey nimbostratus hid the higher summits from view. This is perhaps the more usual scene to greet those who come to walk in the Lake District but at least the fells looked dramatic and Moss Force just above the pass was at its best. But yes - these are excuses - the weather was grim and if I did the walk I would get wet.

Part of the joy of doing the Wainwrights - the fells classified by the late AW Wainwright in his guides to Lakeland - is that some of them can be ascended so quickly and easily that on days like this the getting wet part is not for long enough to become too tiresome. Indeed Latrigg took me and Josh rather less than 10 minutes from the Skiddaw car park and the view from there far outweighs that tiny effort. These two fells I was climbing today - Ard Crags and Knott Rigg - involved slightly under 4 miles of walking and just 1050 feet of ascent for the return trip.

From the small parking area at the top of Newlands Hause set off along the path on the opposite side of the road to the spectacular waterfall of Moss Force - after visiting it 5 minutes the other way - which is actually signposted to Ard Crags if the sign has not since blown away. The path follows the obvious line up a fairly steep grassy ridge ahead past a small rocky outcrop where there was some shelter if only because the wind was blowing the rain over the top of it. After here the steepness eased and the ridge led up past another outcrop to the small cairn atop the grassy ridge of Knott Rigg.

Leaving Knott Rigg the way descends only slightly to cross a wide grassy area which was not overly boggy even in this weather to ascend the steeper slope to Ard Crags itself one mile distant.

Today I saw no-one else on this route and I was in all probability the only one to visit these 2 summits and unlike those who no doubt climbed nearby Crag Hill (aka Eel Crag) or Grasmoor I had a view to enjoy as I remained below the cloud level for the duration of the walk. These lower peaks in the Lake District are often - quite wrongly - neglected in favour of their more illustrious neighbors but they usually offer fine summits and enjoyable quiet approaches whether the sun shines or not.

Pete Buckley Feb 2011

summits Knott Rigg 556m (1824ft) >>> Ard Crags 581m (1906ft)

Essentials >>> Up 320m >>> Down 320m >>> How Far? 6.4km return >>> Start and finish at Newlands Hause (minor road between Buttermere and Braithwaite) >>> More walks and hikescan be found on my website

Causey Pike and the Sail Pass

2010-11-19T14:46:00.005+00:00

The familiar outline of Causey Pike is prominent in the western panorama from Keswick and Derwentwater and the popular climb to its summit is a fine route whether done on its own or as part of the ridge route terminating at Eel Crag (Crag Hill on OS maps). This route is a circular outing that goes as far as Sail (just beyond the Sail Pass) and returns over the lesser but no less interesting peaks of Outerside and Barrow. It could be extended to Crag Hill - which was considered - though more retracing of steps would be involved and the weather did not encourage a longer trip today.

Leaving the car at an ample roadside space on the Newlands Road just over a mile south of Braithwaite I set off south along the road towards the precipitous looking slopes of Rowling End - the eastern spur of Causey Pike - which was my first objective. The path on the right is our return route and is not a short cut to Causey Pike. There is another free parking place just along the road here so please do not abandon vehicles in the passing places - you will not be thanked for it!

As soon as I had crossed the beck by a small bridge, a path led off up the steep slopes to my right. It was a relief to start the climb as it was not a warm day - only 4 degrees C at valley level and breezy with it. The path led easily at first up the valley with the beck down on the right and Causey Pike rising steeply to the clouds ahead. The main path carries on climbing across the slope but after a short while I took a steeper path that ascended through the heather to the left. The main route is okay but this path ascends to the top of the spur of Rowling End and provides superior views up the Newlands Valley once the top is gained.

This way was steep though and hands were needed in a few places as easy rock passages were encountered. It was more that the rock was slippery than difficuly but the views were worth the extra effort and I soon found myself on a wide heathery ridge top with the wild scene of the head of the Newlands valley bounded by High Spy and Dale Head, contrasting with the wooded shores of Derwentwater beyond the fields and farmhouses of the dale below.

Ahead was the steep cone of Causey Pike , mist clinging to the summit crags. It reminded me from here, of a smaller and tamer version of the Matterhorn with the rocky bulge just below the summit. I passed the point where the main path reaches the ridge - Sleet Hause - and started up the ridge.

A good path led without difficulty up the ridge and I gained height quickly soon finding myself below the rocky section. The path heads more or less straight up this rocky dome and while the hands are certainly needed, the way up is much easier than it appears from below then - just as the steepness eases - you are on one of the finest summits in the region. The highest point is the top of the steep rocky bulge seen from below though as the rocks are surmounted one reaches a small grassy platform.

It was a shame that I had reached the cloud layer as the view - which had improved with height would have been excellent from this eagle's nest of a vantage point. The top of Causey Pike is made up of several - 5 I think - bumps which are visible in views of the fell from below. The path now led sucessively over these. The first one appears to be the highest but there's not much between it and the third one. There was no mistake about the route now - on along the ridge through a chill windblown fog towards the next peak - Scar Crags - itself invisible about a kilometre ahead.

The ridge widened for a while and a constructed raised pathway traversed some damp looking areas before a steady ascent brought me to the top of Scar Crags where the view matched that from Causey Pike exactly - a circle of turf and stones beyond which existed only a cold rushing blankness.

The path led on down the far side into the mist and I was soon at Sail Pass where this trail crosses the one linking Braithwaite and Buttermere. The logical circular route here branches right on the Sail Pass towards Braithwaite but with a nod in the direction of peak bagging I decided to ascend Sail before heading down that way. The summit is not much further and was one of the Wainwrights I hadn't climbed before. I had originally planned to go as far as Eel Crag aka Crag Hill but I had been there not so long ago in better weather than this and it would mean retracing my steps if I wanted to visit Outerside. Besides my planned descent of Crag Hill by the Shelf Route - also a fine route of ascent - from Coledale requires clear weather.

Heading up the easy slope to Sail on the wide path, the landscape subtly changed. Sprigs of heather and longer strands of grass beside the path became tinged with white hoar frost and the small patches of snow ceased to be soft. At 2400 feet I had reached the freezing level or 0 degree isotherm. Thanks to the mist I had also entered what aircraft pilots call icing conditions where cloud droplets freeze on contact with solid objects in this case clothing which is far less of a problem than the control surfaces of an aircraft. The forecast snow had not arrived though.

The top of Sail was a cheerless place in this weather and I set off back down to the pass where I emerged below the mist to the wild scene of upper Coledale with the ruined mine below the waterfall at its head. The cloud hid the surrounding summits from view and their rough slopes dropped from the mist. I was passed by 2 girls who had been on Sail and were also heading for Outerside which was the interesting looking cone shaped hill in front that was currently free from mist.

After I had eaten most of my lunch I set off down the track on the Coledale side in a roughly north easterly direction. This is an interesting path across the rough slopes of Scar Crags high above the valley and it led to more level ground where I branched off left towards Outerside. This was grassy terrain and became quite boggy for a while before I found solid ground that led easily up to the fine stony summit of Outerside. These smaller fells are often unjustly neglected yet they can be just as enjoyable to climb as the major fells. The 2 girls had headed up here but no-one else had. They must be doing the Wainwrights as well!

I walked down the ridge towards the expansive views of Keswick, Derwentwater and the lower slopes of Skiddaw and passed the 2 girls again - they must have thought I was following them! The ridge steepened down to a damp heathery plateau interlaced with many small paths. I kept to the right of Stile End - the hill ahead - and found a path that descended to the right where I arrived at the col between this and the next hill known simply as Barrow. The route over Outerside is longer but much more of a joy than the main path in the valley below. I would rejoin it lower down after conquering Barrow.

A clear path led onwards along the ridge and 10 minutes or so brought me to the top of Barrow - only 455m or 1493 feet but commanding a wonderful view of the vale of the Derwent as well as Newlands directly below in the fading light of late afternoon. There's no safe route straight down so to get down there I retraced my steps towards the col I had just left. Here I met the 2 girls again and they were doing the Wainwrights - why else would anyone be up here at this hour? They'd had a good day out but were now faced with a drive back to London - I did not envy them! They had been the only people I had seen since my descent to Sail Pass.

From the col I cut straight down the fellside where a small path joinrd up with the main one below on which I turned left down the valley. This path rounded the corner in the valley and followed the road along to where I was parked. I saw no-one along here either.

Pete Buckley November 2010

Summits >>> Causey Pike 637m/2090ft >>> Scar Crags 672m/2205ft >>> Sail 773m/2536ft >>> Outerside 568m/1864ft >>> Barrow 455m/1493ft

Essentials >>> Up 970m >>> Down 970m >>> How Far? 12km >>> Start and finish at the Newlands Road near Stair >>>

A Short Walk from Honister

2010-11-05T14:42:00.000+00:00

Weather men and climatologists have a unit with which to measure how much sunshine a place receives or is likely to receive, known as the sunshine hour or sun hour. In the Lake District however as I emerge from Honister Youth Hostel - a cheery place of an evening in any weather - I propose that another unit be used, to be known as the sunshine minute. None of these were recorded yesterday nor would be today by the looks of things and if yesterday's rain had lacked commitment then today's was businesslike and determined in its efforts to discourage outdoor activities.

A wide gravel track led from the mine towards the dark misty outline of Honister Crag - the summit just in front of Fleetwith Pike - and I passed the turn off for Great Gable which ascends to the left. Nobody was out today and I had the misty fellsides and monochrome but atmospheric views to myself.

A little further on, the track forked and I took the left hand one - the other leading towards mine workings below Honister Crag. The track now lead more steeply up through a forlorn landscape of grey stone and damp heather to level out again on a rough heathery plateau with intermittent views to the fells of Ennerdale and the Great Gable area though banks of cloud drifted in front of their familiar outlines.

A short distance before some fresh mine workings where was parked a lonely looking digger - a faint path branched off to the right to avoid going through the workings themselves and re joined the track that led up over a rough landscape to the rocks marking the top of Honister Crag. Just before here I made a diversion to some old stone huts perched on the edge of the abyss their glassless windows overlooking the drifting mists that screened the screes of Dale Head opposite and road in the valley some 1500 feet below like some ancient mountain fortress standing guard over the pass.

From Honister Crag, a path meanders through the heather past a small tarn to climb the main summit of Fleetwith Pike overlooking the Buttermere Valley ahead. After the harsh landscape of the slate mines it's a surprisingly pleasant route that makes its way towards the vista of Buttermere and Crummock Water spread out below between Grasmoor and the High Stile Range. Venturing a short way down the ridge beyond the summit gives the best views, and seems to look straight down to Gatescarth farm in the valley below.

The rain in fact had almost stopped as I began my walk back to the pass but this was only a brief respite - it was raining again when I got there and continued to do so for the rest of the day.

This is a short walk of just over 3 miles return that is suitable for days such as this one when you don't always want to be out too long. In better weather it is even more rewarding with fine views down the Buttermere Valley to be had from the summit of Fleetwith Pike. The old mine huts near the top of Honister Crag are quite fascinating but take care on the edge - it is a sheer drop! For the peak bagger, Fleetwith Pike (648m/2126ft) is a Wainwright and a two thousander.

Pete Buckley October 2010

Summits >>> Fleetwith Pike 2126ft/648m

A Circuit of Helvellyn from Thirlmere

2010-10-19T14:56:00.000+01:00

The path to Helvellyn from Wythburn Church was once one of the most popular ascent routes to that fell yet in recent times other ways to the summit have come more into favour. The route though is easy to follow and maintains interest throughout its course from the forested shores of Thirlmere to the top of England's third highest peak. My return route here was a circular finishing with a pleasant forest walk to the start point from Dunmail Raise - oh and for the peak bagger there are 4 Wainwrights on this one.

From the small church at Wythburn the signed path heads steeply up through the trees - mainly coniferous - to cross a forest road a short way uphill. There is a signpost here informing us that Helvellyn is straight across up the path on the opposite side. To the right is marked Dunmail Raise and left "Swirls" while Wythburn Church is signed back the way we've come - remember this for the last part of the walk!

The path continued steeply uphill leaving the trees for a moment and allowing views of the rugged wooded country on the far side of Thirlmere though the lake itself remained largely concealed below. The path climbed past a line of tall pines before veering right to enter a vast hollow in the hills above the woods.

With the beck down on the left, I followed the path - which is a constructed trail here - steeply up and back around to the right to gain a gap in the crags above on that side. The views along Thirlmere improved as I moved back in that direction though the distant views across the Lake District - which are usually impressive from here - were largely obscured by haze. There were signs of this clearing though as I got higher and Skiddaw stood out more clearly in the North as did the high ridges above me though cloud rolled over the top from the East from time to time.

The terrain above the crags is more open and the gradients easier and I made rapid progress along an easy path that slanted up towards the ridge emerging at the gap between Helvellyn and Nethermost Pike. Now it was an easy walk to the summit through the mist that blew across the ridge in the strong gusting easterly wind.

There were intermittent views from the cairn of Catstycam and Striding Edge and a ghostly prospect of Skiddaw seen through shifting mists but generally the cloud won and the views for which Helvellyn is known, remained elusive.

I now intended to follow the ridge in a southerly direction to Grisedale Tarn and make my way back via Dunmail Raise so I set off back in that direction, following the edge of the escarpment instead of the wide path coming up from Grasmere. There were surprisingly few people for a weekend when it wasn't raining though I did meet a couple who had ascended by Kepplecove Tarn (as it was - there is no tarn now) from Glenridding which is the route I describe in "Helvellyn the Quiet Way" and indeed they had found it quiet. We discussed the merits and hazards of descending by Striding Edge in this wind and they wisely opted for the route by Grisedale which is a nice walk. When I had come up by Keppelcove my intent to descend by Swirral Edge to Catstycam had been thwarted by gales. Neither route would pose a serious danger today - if care were taken - but why take the risk?

Crossing the wide summit of Nethermost Pike then the small grassy peak of Dollywaggon Pike I reached the steep descent to Grisedale Tarn which can be toilsome to climb on a warm day and was the reason I'd done the circuit this way around. If you're a peak bagger then these 2 summits are both Wainwrights and two thousanders though the way over them is far pleasanter than the wide tourist path regardless.

There were quite a few people making the ascent this way though and despite my less than favorable memories of the route on hot summer days it remains a popular way to Helvellyn. In descent it is enjoyable with Grisedale Tarn getting ever closer while the rough slopes of Fairfield rise opposite. The location if the tarn is wonderful, being a wild hollow in the mountains at the head of the long deep valley of Grisedale. It is miles from any road and is only accessible on foot or by mountain bike.

I followed the path around the tarn to the left rather than cut across to its right and found myself on the good path that climbed steadily a short distance to Grisedale Hause (pass). Here I ascended the steep ground facing me on the right of the pass to my last summit Seat Sandal. The path is excessively loose and steep lower down and the grass to the right is easier here. Having negotiated the steep section, it was simply a case of following the wall to my last summit of the day.

Seat Sandal is a fine viewpoint being separate from the rest of the fells and overlooking Grasmere on one side and the valley containing Thirlmere on the other - the best views of Grasmere are to be had from the cairn a little further on down the ridge. I had the summit to myself for a while until I was joined by fellow lone wanderer of the hills - a very pleasant girl who's name I didn't get but who had come up from Grasmere and was heading back via Fairfield and Great Rigg which sounds like another good circuit. She said her route up the ridge had been hard work - it does look pretty direct!

Leaving the wide views to the ravens, I set off roughly northwards aiming to the left of Dollywaggon Pike to descend a steep grassy slope to join a path that led down to the left following the stream. This track led down a wonderful mini gorge with rapids and waterfalls as the river made its way over rocky steps and through deep channels. This is the valley of Raise Beck and leads without difficulty - care in a few places if the rocks are wet - to the top of the road pass Dunmail Raise.

Thankfully there is a path that leads off from the road over the stone wall at a stile signposted to Wythburn so to the sound of 2 motorcyclists apparently attempting to set a new land speed record, I left the tarmac behind and followed the path through fields to end up back in the forest where I'd started. An enjoyable walk along a forest track - gained over a bridge across a river at the edge of the trees - brought me from views of Thirlmere through the trees into the deep greens of the woods and to the signpost I'd passed at the start of the walk. Those who were paying attention will remember that it points left from this trail down the hill to wythburn Church. If you miss the sign then - well I've not been that way but I guess it ends up at the King's Head pub where at least you can get a pint before walking all the way back.

Pete Buckley October 2010

Summits Helvellyn 950m/3117ft Nethermost Pike 891m/2923ft Dollywaggon Pike 858m/2815ft Seat Sandal 736m/2415ft

Essentials >>> Up 1040m >>> Down 1040m >>> How Far? 15.2km >>> Start and finish at Wythburn Church by Thirlmere (bus stop and small car park)

More walks and hikes on my homepage

Grasmoor from Crummock Water

2010-10-11T15:18:00.001+01:00

Rannerdale is an area of level cultivated ground effectively forming a break in the steep - often precipitous - mountainsides that fall to the eastern shores of Crummock Water. The valley is overshadowed by Grasmoor, Whiteless Pike and the lower but craggy Rannerdale Knotts and the circuit of these 3 fells which are all Wainwrights makes for a varied and interesting walk - after a challenging start. For the peak bagger there is opportunity to reach 2 more summits with little extra effort and more if you're feeling energetic!

Leaving what is the first of 2 car parks (free) when heading towards Buttermere along Crummock Water, I followed the path ascending the steep hillside towards a line of reddish scree that reached towards the ridgeline of Grasmoor almost 2500 feet overhead. The path soon became sketchy suggesting people had realised that an easier route to the summit of Grasmoor exists from the other car park but I continued to persevere with the few who chose this route which is called Red Gill and follows the small stream of that name.

After a few hundred feet of unrelenting steepness through grass and bracken then heather, the path eased in angle as I approached the foot of the scree run which is about 1000 feet from top to bottom. The retrospect to the rough flanks of Mellbreak across the lake and the Buttermere Fells beyond the craggy end of Rannerdale Knotts opened up as I ascended the scree and my upwards progress could be guaged against the fells opposite. The easiest way I found was by a small path partly hidden under the heather on the right of the stones. The scree itself is practicable but loose and unpleasant.

A lone buzzard wheeled over the rough hillsides above eyeing up a potential meal which struggled up through the rough heather and steepening ground. I kept going though and was soon far above the ridge of Mellbreak opposite with views of the approaching weather to the West. The unbroken amorphous grey of a weather front filled the sky beyond the lonely fells of Great Borne and starling Dodd while the high fells at the head of Buttermere began to disappear one by one. Great Gable - when one can see it - appears to rise from the Buttermere Valley from here but it in fact overlooks the next valley of Ennerdale.

My troubles were not over at the top of the line of scree - the ground became even steeper - a tangle of heather, patchy scree and rocky outcrops inclined at a 45 degree angle rose ahead, over 2000 feet above the flat green carpet of Rannerdale and the cold depths of Crummock Water below. The path too soon gave up the ghost suggesting this was where it was customary to give up - or become a meal for hungry birds. Three buzzards were now circling hopefully overhead and it was a case of picking one's way upwards and not slipping back too much. The ridgeline looked close but it was still further than it looked.

The last part of the ascent was up loose sliding scree and then thankfully, a series of easy shelves across rocky outcrops to emerge on the wide ridge buffeted by an icy wind. Several sheep stared at me with apparent amazement that anyone was mad enough to come up this way.

The diversion to Grasmoor End is worthwhile here - a short descent to the left for birds' eye views of Lanthwaite - but the windswept summit of Grasmoor lies a short way up a wide easy slope to the right. The top has a large wall shelter and a second smaller one overlooking the escarpment I had just ascended. The grey ceiling was not far overhead though and lower fells to the south were now hidden in mist. The wind now blew cold enough for me to don gloves and coat but at least the rain was holding off.

This is the highest point of the route and the rest is easy. I followed the path leading down a gentle gradient followed by a steeper descent to a curious green hollow in the fells where a crossroads in the pathways gives a choice of options. Ahead a wide path makes an easy ascent of Eel Crag (marked as Crag Hill on the OS map) and Wandope, (another Wainwright) is even easier to its right while to the left Hopegill Head is within reasonable distance. My route though lay along the equally easy path to the right which led gradually down to follow a ridge with views of Newlands Hause to surmount a small rise to the fine summit of Whiteless Pike where I rested and finished off lunch - it was now warmer than it had been on Grasmoor.

From Whiteless Pike an easy to follow and interesting track heads down towards Buttermere village in the valley below via some easy rocky sections just below the summit. This is the path to Buttermere if that is your destination but as I had left the car at Rannerdale, I turned right at the bottom of the main descent but still several hundred feet above the valley and followed a delightful path along the ridge to the right which rose gradually in a series of rocky outcrops and wide grassy swathes to the gnarly peak of Rannerdale Knotts. The smaller fells are often some of the best walks and this is no exception. Even though the rain was now coming down, this was the most enjoyable part of the walk with views of Crummock Water straight down to the left and the misted Buttermere Fells circling the head of the valley behind.

From the top of Rannerdale Knotts, the path continues on before bearing left and descending steeply over stone steps for some of the way down to the road alongside Crummock Water. Following this away from Buttermere brought me past the second car park and to where I was parked at the base of Grasmoor. As I removed my boots, a couple with one of those small yappy type dogs on a lead set off up the steep path I'd climbed earlier - they went for nearly a whole minute before coming back down - sensible!

There are easier ways onto Grasmoor and the surrounding fells but this is a good route if you are after a challenge on rough terrain and like the feeling that the hardest part of a walk is over with early on.

Pete Buckley October 2010

Summits Grasmoor 852m/2795ft Whiteless Pike 660m/2165ft Rannerdale Knotts 355m/1165ft (as described)

Essentials >>> Up 850m >>> Down 850m >>> How Far? 10.6km >>> Start and finish at Rannerdale by Crummock Water

Another good route to Grasmoor here.

Through the Coniston Fells

2010-08-26T15:53:00.000+01:00

This is a walk along the length of the Coniston Fells in the Furness region of South Lakeland. As described the walk takes in 5 Wainwrights though there are options to extend it to take in all 7 of the Coniston Fells - a long day - or shorten it into a circular route visiting 4 summits. My own chosen variation visits 5 tops including the remote summit of Grey Friar at the northern edge of the range, this being the only fell in the area I hadn't previously climbed.

Setting out along the stony track of the Walna Scar Road - a track closed to traffic - I passed the path turning right up the steep hill to Coniston Old Man - the Boo Tarn route. This is a quiet and pleasant way to that peak that is much to be preferred to the traditional way via Low water and it is described in full on my Coniston old Man page. The way is now signposted by where a quarry road leaves the Walna Scar route. There is more on the traffic free status of that route at the end of this post.

After three quarters of a mile I left the Walna Scar Track to follow a path up to the right leading past the deep blue waters of Goats Water, a mountain tarn beneath the soaring rocks of Dow Crag on its far shore where several rock climbers could be seen ascending the cliffs far above. Now the path climbed steeply over rough terrain to gain the col of Goats Hause which separates Dow Crag from the Old Man. Here groups of walkers rested after the warm steep ascent.

The steady stream of people now headed off to either one of these peaks though my route followed the fainter path that after the initial right turn branched off to the left to contour the slope at an easy angle towards Swirl How with my own objective of Grey Friar seen across the deep valley containing Seathwaite Tarn. This path simply saves climbing up over Brim Fell which marks the main ridge and would be my return route.

With little effort I reached the col before Swirl How and began the ascent again. The views now opened out to Levers Water down the opposite side of the ridge with Coniston Water below and the green expanse of Grizedale Forest beyond. After the false summit of Great How crags was passed I made my way - with the groups of walkers - over to the cairn marking the top of Swirl How. Though overtopped by a matter of a metre or 3 feet by Coniston Old Man, Swirl How is actually the main peak of the Coniston Fells and it is fom here that the ridges connect to each end of the group.

One such ridge falling in just north of an easterly line to connect with Wetherlam is the Prison Band and this is an option for a circular route. If you had ascended by the Boo Tarn - or Low Water for that matter - route to the Old Man and followed the ridge here, descending the Prison Band to Levers Hause and going down to Levers Water gives the choice of returning to the Walna Scar Road via "Boulder Valley" or continuing down to Coniston.

I had a rest and some more water on the top of Swirl How watching the various groups milling their way along the wide ridge - most were going no further than this - when I got chatting to a girl who came and sat on the next rock to my own. Turns out that she'd set off from Langdale that morning and had already climbed Pike o' Blisco and Cold Pike on the far side of the Wrynose road before arriving here via Grey Friar. Her plan was to continue to Dow Crag and the Old Man and return to Langdale via Wetherlam so climbing all of the Coniston Fells. Impressed? I was!

Jaqueline was doing the Wainwrights and had set off that day to see how many summits she could reach - a few more than I would today - but at least I had done most of them already! We compared Munros and Wainwrights for a while before heading off on our separate ways into the hills. What a thoroughly charming girl!

The way from here to the next summit, Great Carrs is simply a matter of a few minutes walk with spectacular views into the Central Lakes. The crowds had gone and as I set off for Grey Friar pretty much everyone had gone. Grey Friar stands in remote mountain country separate from the main Coniston Fells overlooking the beautiful and unspoilt Duddon Valley and the lonely country above Cockley Beck - Upper Eskdale and the Scafell Range which was topped with grey cloud - one of the finest views in the Lakes.

I finished my lunch on the summit in the chill wind that had sprung up before heading back. Another easy path contoured the hillside around to the right from the depression between Grey Friar anf Swirl How so avoiding re-ascending those fells I had just climbed. The path joined the ridge again just before the ascent to Brim Fell which was an easy steady climb past several cairns to the broad expanse of the summit. Despite the increased cloud, the air remained clear and the Isle of Man floated surreally over the top of Harter Fell. Coniston Old Man was only a short way from here and soon I had rejoined the tourists on its summit who milled around taking photos of each other by the trig point.

I strained my eyes looking across the silver expanse of the Irish Sea in search of Snowdon - yes perhaps a dark smudge was just visible on the edge of things. Occasionally one can see as far as the Welsh Mountains from the Lake District but it is not so common. No sign of my companion of earlier - she must already be on her way back by now.

I set off leaving the tourists to do touristy things and headed south towards the top of the Boo Tarn Route. A faint path was soon picked up and I followed it down to the Walna Scar Road. If descending by this route do not stray too far to the right - towards the valley containing Goats Water - the ground is much steeper with crags there. Once the path is found it becomes more obvious the further you go. In mist - which is most of the time at Coniston - it is perhaps better to go down by the normal way past Low Water. Here even the most navigationally challenged would struggle to lose their way. All in all I would rate this as a good day out in the hills.

Pete Buckley August 2010

Summits >>> Swirl How 802m/2632ft >>> Great Carrs 785m/2575ft >>> Grey Friar 773m/2536ft >>> Brim Fell 796m/2611ft >>> Coniston Old Man 803m/2635ft
Essentials >>> 860m/2820ft of climbing and descent >>> 15.4km or 9.6 miles of walking >>> Start and finish at the sart of the Walna Scar Road or from Coniston >>> check out my homepage for more walks and hikes

Postscript: As I reached the car park there were 2 guys from ITV News filming at the start of the Walna Scar road. As it turns out they were covering the story that the road had - that very morning been closed to traffic. I had been under the impression that it was anyway but no - it had been opened and closed at regular intervals and todays news was the latest in the saga. The road goes to the Duddon Valley via a 2000 foot pass and driving over it would almost certainly result the destruction of your car but the issue here was use by 4 wheel drive vehicles and off road motor bikers.

My own view on this matter is clear - the road should remain for use by non motorised transport only with the exception of essential traffic related to the quarry, use by farmers and the mountain rescue service. There is more on this matter in an article I have published here

The Caldbeck Fells

2010-07-14T18:15:00.000+01:00

Here is an easy circular walk of eight and a half miles into the Caldbeck Fells at the northern extremity of the Lake District. The walking is easy and generally on grass apart from a fascinating ravine walk and 4 summits - all Wainwrights - are reached. The route perhaps lacks the dramatic scenery of the central Lakes but the empty spaces and far reaching views that typify the Caldbeck Fells, you will have to yourself. The start is from just south of the small hamlet of Orthwaite reached up the minor road about 5 miles north of Keswick on the A591.

The previous day had been one of the warmest of the summer with temperatures in excess of 30C in the South of England and 26C at home 200m above sea level. This was not the case today however and the thermometer stood at 11 degrees while ragged grey clouds hid the top of Skiddaw and a thin rain blew in on the fresh north westerly wind. From the almost tropical warmth of yesterday the weather now reminded me of the damp chill of Reykjavik in Iceland which was hardly surprising really as that was where it was coming from.

Hood up, I set off through the gate opposite and up the bridleway on its far side. I was about seven and a half miles north of Keswick and just south of the hamlet of Orthwaite above Bassenthwaite Lake and the path here was signposted to Burn Tod though I'm not sure why because there's nothing there. After a short distance the path left the farm track (which goes to Dash Farm) and climbed gently up to the left across the slopes of the fell known as Great Cockup which has to be one of the funniest names ever given to a hill. After passing a small summit which is actually a great viewpoint, the path meandered its way along the slopes towards a great grassy hollow in the fells ahead with views on the right of the Dash Valley and falls. These remote hills are known as the Ulldale Fells and join up with the (slightly) better known Caldbeck Fells the northernmost range in Lakeland. The character of the area though is not typically Lakeland but has more in common with the Howgills or the Southern Uplands of Scotland - vast sweeping slopes and rounded summits, the exception here being the northern aspect of Skiddaw fronted by the shadowed crags of Bakestall and the spectacular Dash Falls.

My path descended into the hollow surrounded by clouded hills and at an area of tall foliage the path disappeared and the rain started up again with renewed vigour. I crossed a stream and by passed the reedy area to its right and just beond a ruined wall, the path was rediscovered up to the left. Here I entered an exciting steep sided ravine which was a change from the open grasslands but didn't stop the wind which funnelled up behind me. The path mainly keeps on the left side of the river on the ascent and though rough in a few places is not hard, climbing steadily up the ravine which makes for an interesting walk.

As the top is neared the ravine splits in 2 with the main river descending from the left branch while the right one is almost dry. A path does exit up to the left but the far easier way is to keep on up the right branch which soon ceases to be a ravine at all, emerging on the grassy ridge at the top. Here I turned left and followed a faint path up the wide ridge in dense mist buffeted by an icy wind and horizontal rain which - just for good measure - was mixed with face stinging hailstones.

After a cairn on the ridge, the path climbed again indicating that the cairn hadn't been the summit of Knott after all - the true top being revealed ahead as the cloud finally broke up around me giving tantalising glimpses of distant hills and wild empty spaces to the east. That was Skiddaw Forest and the Caldbeck Fells - Lakeland's Empty Quarter. It is very important if you come walking up here in visibility as bad as this not to get lost by heading too far east - the walk home will be too much for many!

Knott is the highest point of the Caldbeck Fells and the highest Lakeland fell north of Skiddaw and today it was positively arctic - after the recent heatwave this was one of the coldest days I remember walking in the UK in summer - it was now only 5 or 6 degrees more like winter really.

The view was revealed suddenly as the mists cleared away - blown at speed by the gale - and the rain ceased. My route lay to the north west to the grassy hump of Great Sca Fell which is nothing like its namesake above Wasdale though now the sun was out it was a very pleasant spot indeed. The only human for miles, I sat on the cairn which was the only rocky object in a sea of grass and admired the sweeping vista of the Cumbrian plain and the sands of the Solway backed by the hills of Scotland while all around the cloud shadows chased across the breezy heights.

Now my heading was west along another path and I soon descended a surprisingly steep though easy and grassy slope that was unseen from above. This led in due course to Meal Fell - for the peak baggers the third Wainwright though not a two thousander - whose summit is crowned by a fine stone shelter. Here I rested again and looked back to Great Sca Fell and the slope I had descended. There were 2 or 3 walkers coming down now appearing as ants half a mile away on the green expanse of Great Sca Fell.

To the West of Meal Fell is an interesting little pass known as Trusmadoor - a steep defile through the hills which I crossed to the South where it is easier. Now the path led steeply up a stony ridge on its far side until the gradient eased and followed the wide whaleback to the summit of Great Cockup - yes the name is still amusing but it's a good viewpoint as well!

From the far end of Great Cockup a descent to the left through heather soon picks up the track we started on earlier and a reluctant return to civilisation can be achieved by turning right when it is reached. Then again one could always bring a tent!

Summits >>> Knott 710m/2330ft >>> Great Sca Fell 651m/2136ft >>> Meal Fell 550m/1805ft >>> Great Cockup 526m/1726ft Essentials >>> 8.5 miles or 13.5km of walking >>> 1900 feet or 580m of ascent >>> Start and finish at Orthwaite >>>

Pete Buckley July 2010