Africa Travel Diary

Kruger National Park, here we come

2014-05-31T10:43:00.001-06:00

The Kruger National Park (KNP) is one of the premier game reserves in the world. Located in the "lowveld" savannah in the far northeast of South Africa, it receives little attention from the outside world compared to the well advertised and popular safari destinations of East Africa - Serengeti, great migration, etc. For some of us, that's a good thing.

From it's southernmost gate at Crocodile Bridge, to Pafuri Gate in the north, you have to drive over 400km (240 miles). It is greater in size than Wakes or Israel and is almost the size of Massachusetts. The park straddles the Tropic of Capricorn and so it is truly in the tropics. It's wide variety of savannah habitats, geography and climatic areas gives it an abundance and variety of wildlife unequaled anywhere.

According to the Prime Origins Guide to the Kruger National Park by Brett Hilton-Barber and Professor Lee R. Berger, 21 of Africa's 72 antelope species are found in the park, from the tiny suni to the great and majestic eland. Predators abound. Lion, leopard, cheetah, wild dogs, hyena and many smaller predators such as jackal, caracal, civet and genet. Great numbers of elephant, buffalo, giraffe, zebra, hippopotamus and rhino, both black and white, graze and browse in this environment.

KNP is "one of the great birding spots in South Africa." Because the park straddles the Tropic of Capricorn, it lies in the southernmost range of many tropical bird species and the northernmost extent of many southern species. Many of Kruger's birds are migrants from Eurasia and other parts of Africa to the north that fly here to spend summer in the south. There are about 380 species that are resident here year-round. KNP is the best place to view the great birds of prey, with 17 eagles and almost 80 others raptors living here.

The rivers of Kruger are home to several thousand crocodiles. 54 Species of snake are found within the park, though it is rare to see these.

The network of roads and "camps" within KNP have been developed and modernized since it opened to tourists in 1927. The area was first proclaimed as a wildlife preserve in 1898 by the Transvaal Boer Republic, Paul Kruger. This was known as the Sabi Game Reserve. Later he proclaimed a large area to the north, the Shingwedzi Reserve. These were combined after acquisition of 70 privately owned farms between them in 1926, and the park was officially re-named The Kruger National Park. In 1927 three cars visited the park, and today more than a million visitors come to Kruger each year. This is a popular destination for most South Africans, much as the National Parks in the U.S., such as Yosemite, Yellowstone and Rocky Mountain National Park are favorite vacation spots for Americans.

My first visit to Kruger was as a schoolboy in 1959. I went back again as a first-year university student in 1962. No doubt, these visits sparked my lifelong interest in wildlife and a desire to pursue biology studies. The next trip was in 2001 when Jan and I took friends to the area. The park had expanded and modernised its facilities but still retained the wonderful qualities and characteristics that had so impressed me forty years earlier! Today, many of the main camps have souvenir shops and mini-supermarkets where campers and travelers can re-provision, and of course, petrol (gas) can be purchased in most camps as well.

An especially memorable visit was in 2006 when we re-visited several of the camps that I had stayed in in 1962, especially Punda Maria in the north. Outwardly the thatch-roofed "rondavels" or cabins looked much the same, but inside, the conveniences had been updated, with air conditioning a notable improvement. Since then we have been back twice, visiting with some of our family and our 11 year-old granddaughter in 2012. Is it apparent that this place holds a very special place in my heart?

Now we are going back again and we will spend time in the southern area, based at the biggest (HQ) camp at Skukuza. Some of the mountains here rise up to 2,500 ft and the most annual rain falls here. The big cats are often seen here and the bird life and vegetation is different from the grassland and savannah further north.

80% of the rainfall falls between October and March (summer), so visitors in June can expect to see mostly warm, dry days and cool winter nights. Each day in KNP offers new experiences and surprises. We hope to write about some of these as we travel, so stay tuned.

Back to Gomo Gomo - two years later

2014-05-13T10:56:00.000-06:00

Gomo Gomo Game Lodge is a private and intimate camp situated in the prestigious Klaserie Private Nature Reserve, giving you best traverse viewing. We can vouch for this because we are about to make our third visit to this little "lowveld paradise." We began making plans for this trip last November. Here are the steps to take when planning a safari like this.

Step 1: Always check the South African School Calendar to make sure you are visiting while the local kids are in school.

Step 2: Consider the weather. In 2012 we went in late July and it was very cold. Temperatures across South Africa that year were at record lows. The evening game drives were frigid, requiring many layers of clothing. This time we decide to go in early June, so the weather should be really nice.

Step 3: The season is important. I enjoy going during the rainy season, from November through March. The bush foliage is dense and the bird life is amazing. Hundreds of migratory bird species take up residence in southern Africa, and the big herds of buffalo and elephant move around in the lush environment. But Jan prefers the winter months, June through August, when the leaves have fallen and wildlife (at least the mammals) are easier to spot. Water sources shrink, forcing the animals to congregate around the areas water holes, and remaining river pools.

So - we decided on June, when temperatures are still relatively mild and the bush has lost most of it foliage. The best of both worlds.

Step 4: Choose the location. We have been to the lowveld area around the Kruger National Park a number of times. In fact, it is a place I visited twice as a teenager in 1959 and 1961. So we know we will get our moneys worth. We first visited the Klaserie Wildlife area, west of Kruger Park in 2001 and had a wonderful three days at Kings Camp. Then we returned to stay at Gomo Gomo, in their old location, in 2006. It was a fabulous trip and we regretted spending only three days there. In 2012 we spent four nights at the new Gomo Gomo Camp with some of our kids and our eleven year-old granddaughter Avery. We all had a blast for four full days and even saw a white lion cub - a big highlight.

Step 5: Consider the cost! Gomo Gomo will cost us under US$200 per night per person. This includes all Game Drives, all meals and accommodations. Nearby, upscale lodges might charge up to $880 to $1,000 pp per night. Hey, they all have the same wildlife to view so why pay more? As we are returning guests, Gomo Gomo has offered a discount as well.

This time we have booked a full five nights at the camp. After we leave, we will rent a car and spend five nights in the Kruger National Park. For a self-drive safari KNP can't be beat. Accommodations will set us back about $100 per night for both of us and restaurant fare is good and inexpensive, by American standards.

Step 6: Once the game camp and KNP bookings were made, we booked our plane tickets. It is important to book and pay as far in advance as possible. The return airfare from Denver to Johannesburg was just a bit over $2,000 each. Then there is a short flight from Johannesburg's O.R. Tambo Airport, by South African Airways Express commuter flight, to the Gateway airport near Hoedspruit. Cost, about $160 each. We are picked up by Gomo Gomo staff at the airport for a 30 minute drive to the lodge.

With less than three weeks to go we keep saying "Three weeks from now we will be over the Atlantic.." or "In three weeks we will be arriving at Gomo Gomo!" They say that we become more patient as we grow older, but that is not true in this case. We are like two kids waiting for Christmas Eve.

We will be posting more news as our trip begins and hope to share photos along the way. Join us on Facebook.

From Kruger Park to Johannesburg

2013-01-01T13:35:00.001-07:00

A cheetah at the HESC.

On our way up Abel Erasmus Pass. Stunning scenery.

Leaving then Kruger National Park, our destination was the Manor Guest House in Lydenburg. We stopped for a tour of the Cheetah Sanctuary, or the Hoedspruit Endangered Species Center (HESC) where Joe had booked an 11:00 a.m. tour several months before. When we arrived the staff had no record of our booking. We were shown a 25 minutes National Geographic video and taken on a 30 minute drive in a Land Rover. We drove between numerous, spacious fenced enclosures and were disappointed that we couldn’t see any of the animals close-up without a fence between us. The lunch was good however, salvaging some of the disappointment. An African Grey parrot kept Avery amused. The HESC is a worthy project but when you have spent ten days seeing wildlife roaming free in the open bush it is a disappointment.

The scenery along the highway to Lydenburg was ever changing as we left the bush and drove westward to Abel Erasmus Pass, past the Blyde River Canyon turnoff and up the mountain to the J. G Strijdom Tunnel. We stopped to look at the crafts and visit a bit with the women who sat there all day with their small children enticing tourists to buy their wares. We drove on and detoured to Blyde River Canyon overlook and took photos of the Three Rondavels on the opposite the edge of the gorge. Regrettably we had not allowed ourselves time to explore this region which is very picturesque and has many interesting stops. It was late in the day when we arrived in Lydenburg and city traffic was just like rush hour at home. The streets were filled with people walking in all directions as it was the end of the workday. It took a while to find our B&B (Manor Guesthouse) and it was a little difficult to park the large van in the small gated area.

The Manor Guest House - Lydenburg

The accommodations were spacious and lovely, however, very cold. The hostess turned on our electric blankets and the wall space heater. CJ and Joe and Jan had free standing fireplaces in their rooms—but J&J couldn’t light the fire because they had no matches. We took the van and went in search of something to eat and found a pizza-fish place, fast food that was filling and satisfying. Michelle caught the attention of the girls behind the counter, they noticed she was American, and soon they all left their posts and were asking all sorts of questions about the US. Pictures were taken, the food was delicious and we were on our way to Spar (store) for more provisions. Biscuits disappeared quickly and we had another day on the road tomorrow. The beds were warm and comfortable, but the wi-fi was tricky. We had been without email for a several days and we needed to check in.

It was nice to have coffee and tea service in our room, so we enjoyed a cup before packing up and having breakfast at 7:30 Wednesday in the sun-room in the main house. We again had typical African fare, a choice of cereals, fruit, yogurt and cooked breakfast of eggs, mushrooms, tomatoes, bacon or sausage and toast.

The N4 to Pretoria

Our drive was mostly on a toll highway to Pretoria. We had a standing PBJ (peanut butter and jelly – for those who are not familiar with this staple) picnic at a rest stop on the way. Pretoria (Tswhana) is a bustling capitol city to the north of Johannesburg. We stopped at the historic Union Buildings where the administrative government for South Africa has its offices. The lovely gardens were not in bloom, as it was wintertime, but the vista was impressive and there were crafts to browse. Michelle and Avery picked up small gifts for Avery’s friends.

Joe phoned Barry Blair (old friend from Rhodes University and Rhodesia) and got directions to his home. Of course, we missed a turn on the busy confusing highways but Kevin used his GPS and rescued us. Barry welcomed us and served tea before Hilary arrived home from teaching her Pilates class and reminded him of the milk tart (melktert), so we each had a slice of the wonderful pudding. Joe and Jan wanted to visit with their long-time friends and the kids were eager to move around so Barry and Joe took them to nearby MonteCasino where they toured the Bird Sanctuary and shops. Jan stayed to visit with Hilary and then we made plans to have dinner at our airport hotel that night. J&J then met the kids at Monte- Casino. Before entering, we had to pass through a security check, opening our bags and being frisked—they were looking for handguns. We sat with the kids while they had an Italian dinner and heard tales of the birds attacking them in the aviary. They laughed so hard telling us about their experience there.

Historic Union Buildings - Administrative Capitol of SA.

We encountered rush-hour traffic on the drive to the Garden Court Hotel at O.R. Tambo Airport. An accident brought traffic to a halt—no matter what country one may be in, highway traffic can be a pain. Thankfully Kevin used his GPS to get us on the right highway. As we neared the airport, we could see the hotel, but couldn’t find an exit to get to it, so we went in circles until Kevin found the exit we needed on his GPS. We were all a bit stir-crazy by the time we unloaded our luggage. Joe needed to return the rental car but decided to call the agency and asked them to pick it up at the hotel—the road maze was too much to deal with a second time. Advice to anyone visiting O. R. Tambo airport in Johannesburg for the first time (or tenth time!) - call for help.

We put our luggage in our room just as Barry and Hilary arrived. It was so much fun sitting down for a relaxing buffet dinner and catching up, laughing like we always do together. The dinner was delicious and the puddings plentiful. We had long ago given in to the delicious fare.
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And so ended our adventures in the northern provinces. Tomorrow we would fly to the coast at Port Elizabeth and bring Joe back to the familiar Eastern Cape where he had attended High School and University in the 50s and 60s.

Gomo Gomo to Kruger National Park

2012-11-28T16:21:00.000-07:00

A stop at PicknPay in Hoedspruit

After renting our eight-seater Hyundai (a very comfortable vehicle!) in Hoedspruit, our first stop was at the Standard Bank to convert US dollars into Rand. Then we made the first of many visits to the PicknPay to buy travel essentials: biscuits (cookies) and snack food, water (although we could drink tap water), a Coke Light and naartjies (tangerines). It was interesting to mix with the African people and note the differences in customs and cultures. For instance, check-out clerks sit down as they scan groceries and there is a charge for the plastic bags to carry the purchases. We found many examples of recycling and conservation conscious policies during our trip.

We drove north from Hoedspruit on the highway to the Phalaborwa Gate and the entrance to Kruger National Park (KNP).

One of the first animals we saw in KNP - a baboon

The Kruger National Park is one of the largest game reserves in Africa. It covers 19,485 square kilometres (7,523 sq miles) and extends 360 kilometres (220 mi) from north to south and 65 kilometres (40 mi) from east to west, not including the Private Reserves which adjoin it on the west side. To the west and south of the Kruger National Park are the two South African provinces of Limpopo and Mpumalanga. In the north is Zimbabwe, and to the east is Mozambique. It is now part of the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park, a peace park that links Kruger National Park with the Gonarezhou National Park in Zimbabwe, and with the Limpopo National Park in Mozambique. Gomo Gomo, where we had spent four wonderful days is in the Klaserie Private Reserve which is now part of the Greater Kruger Park Wildlife Management area. The objective in spending three nights in the Kruger Park was to be able to see what a unique conservation area it is and to experience its wildlife while self-driving.

A Ground Hornbill

One of the oldest in the world, Kruger National Park (KNP) was first designated a Government Wildlife Park in 1898 before being expanded and named the Sabi Game Reserve. It officially became the Kruger National Park in 1926. It receives over a million visitors a year now and is a favorite vacation destination for most South Africans, offering a wide range of affordable accommodation from basic camping, to RV’s, cottages and luxury lodges. It is important to plan any visit to Kruger Park outside of school holidays!

On our drive through KNP to Letaba Rest Camp we again saw wildlife; ground hornbills, giraffe, rhino, buffalo, elephants and a baboon sitting high on a rock. We didn’t stop too long for photographs as we had to reach camp before the gates closed at sunset.

We had a bungalow with two bedrooms and two baths for two nights. Each bedroom had three single beds. KNP thatched camps are set up for self-catering and each unit has a fully furnished kitchen, dining table and sitting area as well as a covered porch. There is also a filling station, restaurant, gift shop/grocery store, camping area, ablutions, and washer/dryers. Guests are cautioned that monkeys, baboons and honey badgers are problematic in the camp so food should be securely stored and doors to bungalows should be kept closed at all times. Resident bushbucks were wandering around the camp. We walked along the river path to the restaurant for some dinner and bats flew overhead. The air was filled with the smell of outdoor cooking from the many self-catering residents and campers. The seating was outdoors and the night air was quite chilly; our bungalow wasn’t much warmer. The service was slow—something we noticed everywhere on this trip—and the menu limited.

We rose at 6:00 a.m. Sunday, July 22, and went for a short game drive to the bridge over the Letaba River. It was cold and we were grateful to be in an enclosed vehicle. We returned to camp and had breakfast at the restaurant and although we ate indoors, we were still very cold. Most foreign visitors would not think of Africa being a cold place but if we visit again in July we would bring more suitable, warmer, clothing instead of trying to wear multiple layers to ward off the chill. We decided to buy some bread, peanut butter, jam, cheese and other provisions at the store and we needed to stock up on biscuits before returning to the bungalow.

Carol, Kevin, Jan and Joe once again left camp for a game drive. Michelle and Avery stayed behind to relax and have a swim. The day warmed up nicely once the sun came up. Kevin took the wheel and he too turned on the windshield wipers when he meant to signal a turn and we all laughed.

Hippo in the Olifants River

We drove the dusty back-roads to Olifants Camp and stopped often to photograph giraffe, elephant, and baboons. Olifants is one of the most picturesque camps in the Kruger National Park. Joe had visited here in 1958 and, although the camp had been enlarged and modernized somewhat, the spectacular panoramic views over the Olifants River had not changed at all. CJ became the crocodile and hippo spotter with the aid of binoculars. They blend in so well with the landscape they are difficult to see with the naked eye. We stopped for lunch on the veranda at Olifants and enjoyed the beautiful view of the river while we patiently waited for our Greek salads. On the return to Letaba we spotted a fish eagle and a jacana (lily trotter) as well as many other birds and antelope—yes, more impala.

Little Bee-eater

The bird-life in Kruger Park is quite remarkable and we extended the checks on our list almost hourly. Some of the bird photos are shown with this narrative.

Pearl Spotted Owl at Satara Camp

Joe and Jan had made plans to meet old friends at Letaba. They had visited their lovely home in Tzaneen (a two hour drive west of the Park) on a previous trip and they came to KNP to spend a night so they could see us. We enjoyed a short visit and Joe and Mike toured the elephant museum at Letaba in the afternoon. The four of us met later for very enjoyable dinner and the hake was delicious. The family stayed in and had sandwiches and Michelle made a trip to the laundromat.

Everyone packed up early Monday as we left Letaba for Satara Rest Camp. We stopped again at Olifants Camp for breakfast and enjoyed the game drive along the way. Again we saw ground hornbills, which are endangered, ho-hums, hippo and crocs, thanks to CJ. There were a large number of cars parked on and beside the road at one point which indicated something worth seeing. We followed the lenses and finger pointing and saw a fresh impala kill in a tree in the distance, which meant a leopard was in the area. We wove our way through the maze of cars and drove on. We checked into Satara and had to wait for our bungalow which gave us time to explore the gift shop and have a bite of lunch. A sign pointed out the “most photographed Scops Owl in Africa” sitting in a bush. The photographers kept up the tradition but then a Pearl Spotted Owl was spotted in a tree near the shop. A monitor lizard peeked over the roof of the lodge as he slept in the sunshine.

Once we were in our bungalow, similar to the one at Letaba, we went different directions. CJ, Kevin and Joe went on a game drive, Jan read while she did the laundry and Michelle and Avery visited the swimming pool. A large herd of waterbuck was seen, a new antelope to check off the list, as well as zebra, impala, elephant, and giraffe. Kevin was keeping track of game and birds spotted.

We ate in our room for dinner and breakfast the next day. We had purchased staples and were already a bit tired of “eating out” and spending an hour or more waiting for a meal. Fruit, PBJ, pasta with butter for Avery, cereal (Wheatbix) and toast filled our tummies.

After breakfast Tuesday we loaded the car and did our final game drive on our way out of KNP through Orpen Gate. Someone mentioned we hadn’t seen buffalo as we neared the exit and, wouldn't you know, there was a herd just off of the road just a few yards from the gate. More photos. We stopped again at the gate shop for a leg stretch and a cup of coffee as we had a long drive ahead.

Gomo Gomo Days 2 & 3

2012-09-24T15:00:00.000-06:00

Thursday - we were awake when HJ knocked on our door at 5:30 a.m. We dressed in our chilly room and enjoyed coffee at the main lodge before leaving on the game drive. The sun was just brightening the sky each day as we climbed in the Land Rover and as the sun rose the sky was flame colored. We saw a variety of game this morning: kudu, wildebeest, giraffe, zebra, rhino and saw vultures circling the lion kill. But the lions were still there and the carcass odor was becoming more noticeable.

We had more delicious meals before the afternoon game drive and welcomed Neil and Lisa Vigars, honeymooners from the UK, to our vehicle. Our first stop was a visit to the lion kill where the lions were still working on the diminished carcass. We encountered a herd of elephants, saw hyena, a civet, giant eagle owl, and the ever present impala. That night we heard lions roar and hyena laugh—the hyena were getting impatient for their turn at the kill.

Friday – In the early morning, while we were having coffee before the game drive we noticed something across the water hole in the dim light. HJ told us it was the mother of the white lion cub. She had a drink and then walked along the dam past Avery and Carol’s chalet. We got in our Land Rover and followed her through the bush. The second land rover was also following so we went a different direction so we wouldn’t spook her. We saw a jackal, hyena and a tawny eagle. We parked at the dam and watched a herd of elephants come down the bank to drink. It was quite a large herd and we watched them until they turned around and left. The lions were still at the kill and had dragged the remaining carcass, which was quite fragrant, around the tree where the vultures still waited. A couple of jackals were prancing back and forth in the distance.

The white lion cub (center and its sibling (left)

Ewan radioed HJ that they had followed the mother lion to the den and had seen the white lion cub. We raced to the sandy river bed and we too saw the tiny white lion and the tawny sibling staggering around the well hidden den. Joe was only able to two two unfocused photos. White lions are very rare in the wild and only occur naturally in this area of the Timbavati and Klaserie Reserves. They are not albino but have blue eyes. Joe and Jan saw a lion in 2001 that carried the recessive white lion gene and had read on the Gomo Gomo website that the cub had been born about four weeks ago. HJ discovered it but the mother had moved the cubs and they hadn’t been seen again until that morning. (Since then there were regular updates and pictures of the cubs on the Gomo Gomo website http://www.gomogomo.co.za.)

The monkey and steenbok and impala seemed so ordinary after that. We were all chattering about the amazing white cub sighting sight when we returned to camp. Michelle had decided to sleep in that morning so she missed seeing it.

Michelle and Kevin went on the bush walk that morning. Avery would have liked to go along but the minimum age for the walk was 12. She had no trouble entertaining herself in camp with a book or swim or just watching the wildlife come to the water hole. She took many photos with her camera every day.

On the afternoon drive we stopped first at the den in hopes of seeing the white lion cub again. The mother was sleeping in the sandy river bed but the cubs must have been in the den as we did not see them. We commented how fortunate we were to have seen it that morning. Jeffrey left his seat on the fender and walked into the bush to track leopard again and somehow he found it, so we had another sighting.

We had seen four of the “big five,” lion, leopard, rhino, elephant, but so far had not encountered buffalo. HJ and Jeffrey were on a mission to complete the list. We drove through the bush and spotted a hyena, but we only paused for a few clicks of the shutter because HJ said he had a better sighting for us to see. He told us to hold on and sped through the bush. We bounced on the seats and ducked and swayed to avoid thorny trees and bushes. We watched as another vehicle navigated a deep narrow ravine and then we followed. The reward was a big herd of Cape Buffalo (estimated 400 +) coming to a water hole. They stirred up the dust as they rushed to drink, bellowing and pushing the leaders further and further into the water. In the fading light the animals continued to come out of the bush and bats flew overhead.

It was near dusk when we parked for “moon-uppers,” rather than sundowners. The sky glowed with shades of pinks and purples as we chatted around the table and enjoyed cold drinks and snacks. We stopped once again at the lion kill on the return to camp. The lions had moved on and jackals and hyena were sharing the remains of the giraffe. Hyenas have very strong jaws and feast on the bones.

All too soon our final day at Gomo Gomo arrived. Once again we left camp early Saturday for our last game drive. We went to the white lion den but there was no sign of the mother or the cubs so HJ said she must have moved them. But we saw rhino, a herd of about 20 kudu, monkeys, steenbok, impala, a squirrel and even a nocturnal bush baby in the daylight. Jeffrey spotted a leopard in a distant tree, but it jumped down before we all saw it—a disappointment for Jan who has never seen a leopard in a tree. We stopped for a long while to watch four hyena casually walking by. HJ said they were leaving the giraffe kill, dinner over.

After another hearty breakfast, we shared our Colorado Places photo book with our servers. They were so curious about the snow and a red barn and asked, “Is that your house?” Michelle passed out Colorado t-shirts to everyone who had served and cooked for us and Carol had gifts for them as well. We finished packing and were once again transferred back to Hoedspruit by Barney Smith. He took us to pick up our rental vehicle, an eight-seater Hyundai van. The luggage snugly fitted into the cargo space but we each had a window. Joe took the wheel and managed to drive on the left side of the road, although he switched on the windshield wipers when he meant to use the turn signals. It took a while to adjust.

Now we were looking forward to spending three days in the Kruger National Park. The entire Gomo Gomo experience was fantastic. Jan and I have been to southern Africa numerous times over the years but the game-viewing experience on this trip was about the best we have had.

Back to Gomo Gomo - Day Two

2012-08-28T15:00:00.000-06:00

White Rhino

Wednesday morning we had time for a quick cup of coffee or tea and rusks before we left the lodge on our game drive. We were fortunate that we had the Land Rover to ourselves until later in the week. We saw three white rhino first thing. White rhino have a square mouth and are grazers, black rhino have pointed lips and are browsers; their coloring is the same. There were nine lions at the kill when we returned there. The tree above was filled with vultures patiently waiting their turn. We noticed the four month old cub and he (or she) was so cute!

A Red-billed hornbill. Bird life here, even in winter was amazing

We drove on and a majestic male giraffe was nibbling new growth from a thorny tree. His coloring was very dark. We dropped Jeffrey off alone in the bush, armed only with a radio, to track leopard and picked him up later. When the sun was high, we took a break and H.J. served coffee and tea and fresh baked muffins. Back on the road Jan spotted a honey badger scampering through the bush; not sure if anyone got a picture. H.J. and Jeffrey both left the vehicle to follow leopard spoor (tracks) — never mind the tourists sitting in the vehicle in the middle of the road… H.J. took his .458 cal. game rifle from the case resting on the flat windshield, not for shooting, but he is not allowed to leave it in the vehicle. He said the rifle could bring down an elephant. They had no luck spotting the leopard.

Four month-old lion cub at the kill

We returned to camp and had breakfast. Cold cereals, yogurt and fruit juice was followed by a cooked breakfast of eggs, bacon and toast. With full tummies, we had a choice of the morning game walk, enjoyed by Kevin and Carol, relaxing by the water hole, checking email or a nap, which was chosen by a couple of us. It was wonderful to wander around the lodge, sit by the pool, read a book, write post cards or just watch the wildlife come out of the bush to drink at the water hole. The sound of the drum gathered everyone for lunch around 2:00 p.m. Lamb curry was served. It was warm in the daytime but very cold for the game drives. We purchased Gomo Gomo warm scarves and hats and wished we had brought heavier coats, so we layered all we had.

A "business" of Dwarf Mongoose

Rulani (the "calm") female leopard

The afternoon game drive rewarded us with truly amazing sightings. A herd of kudu was our first opportunity to take photos of these majestic antelope. The stately bulls’ horns spiral and their sides have vertical white stripes. A “business” of dwarf mongoose was fun to watch and Henry the hippo peaked out of the pond at us. But “Rulani” the leopard was tracked and we had a wild off-road ride through the bush to see her. (Rulani is a Shangaan word meaning calm) She was posing in the fading sun on an old termite mound. So gorgeous! She got up and we followed her as she slowly walked through the bush. She stopped and posed again between the two land rovers, turning one way and then the other and opened her mouth in a big yawn. She walked on and we followed her a while longer with cameras clicking away. Then we saw hyena.

Sunset - time for the traditional "Sundowners."

Of course we had Sundowners and then followed a lion walking down the road toward the dam to drink. We drove to the other side of dam and waited for her to appear, which she did. We returned to the kill and were surprised to hear the cub “meow” between the snarling adult lions tearing and chewing on the carcass.

Joe took time to download his photos to the laptop before dinner was served. We again chose our seats in the boma and began with sweet potato soup. The menu included steak, Avery was delighted, chicken pie, squash, salad and lemon meringue pie served in a hollowed out lemon. Delicious!

By now we felt right at home at Gomo Gomo. We enjoyed visiting with the staff, knew the schedule for breakfast at about 10:00 a.m. after the game drive, lunch at 2:00 p.m. and dinner around 8:00 p.m. Game drives left camp at 6:15 a.m. and 4:30 p.m. We gave them our laundry which was returned neatly folded the same day. H.J., our Ranger, entertained us with his stories, happily answered hundreds of questions and put up with our banter and silly “tree” riddles. (Eg: What do you call a small tree? – an Infantry) He served us drinks at every meal. Each night when we returned to our bungalow there was a delightful hand written and illustrated traditional story about a wild dog, hippo, warthog or rhino and sweets on our turned down bed.

Rulani kept us mesmerized for about 45 minutes

Back to Gomo Gomo - Day One

2012-08-12T12:00:00.001-06:00

This is the first in a series of stories and recollections from our 25 day tour of South Africa starting in July 2012.

Since our visit to Gomo Gomo in March 2006 the lodge has changed locations from the Timbavati to the adjacent Klaserie Private Game Reserve. The newly constructed lodge overlooks a good-size dam and the brick and thatched chalets spread out on either side of the main lodge giving visitors nice views of the game that visits constantly.

The main lodge at Gomo Gomo

We flew from Dulles International Airport in Washington DC on a South Africa Airways (SAA) flight to Johannesburg that took 17 hours, including a one-hour stop to refuel in Dakar, Senegal. Total distance, as the crow flies, is 13,200 kilometers (or 8,184 miles) Dakar is almost exactly halfway. This is a long time to be sitting on a plane but we had many movies and other video programs to keep us entertained. Our group of six checked in to the Holiday Inn Garden Court Hotel adjacent to the O.R. Tambo International Airport (formerly Jan Smuts) after a 5:30 p.m. arrival for a good night’s sleep. After a hearty breakfast we returned to the airport to board an SAA Express plane for the 45 minute flight to Hoedspruit’s Eastgate Airport. Eastgate is the arrival point for most of the Game Lodges in the Timbavati, Klaserie, area, adjoining the Kruger National Park.

Arriving in the “lowveld” is always a special feeling. You are surrounded by the African “bush” and the temperature is warmer at about 1,000 feet above sea level. The seasonally dry acacia and grassy vegetation has a smell and feel that is unique. Stepping off of the plane you find yourself in a different world. We were picked up by Barney Smith of Fun Time Tours (www.funtimetours.co.za) and set out on the 45 minute drive to the lodge. Barney regularly provides this shuttle service for Gomo Gomo and other lodges in the area. Although the road was paved for most of the way the speed limit was 50km/hr (30mph) and it is easy to see why as we began to see wildlife immediately, with impala, giraffe, wildebeest, warthog etc. along the roadside. Turning on to a dirt road we reached the lodge after another ten minutes. As we pulled up, the staff directed us through the main building onto the expansive deck overlooking the dam. There to greet us was a small herd of elephant drinking. What a way to start our four day visit to Gomo Gomo!

Elephants welcome us to the lodge

Arriving at about noon, we were greeted by Linda and Ewan, and shown to our respective chalets. A delicious lunch soon followed (the meals were consistently excellent!) and we had a few hours to explore our surroundings before setting out on an afternoon game-drive at 4:30 p.m. We met H.J. (short for Hendrik Johannes Esterhuizen) who was to be our ranger for the week and Jeffrey, the most excellent tracker, who we had met six years ago. Both of these gentlemen are highly trained wildlife professionals and we would learn a lot from them. They were also experts in finding game for us to observe and photograph. In fact, we came away with the certainty that they are passionate about wildlife and dedicated to providing the best possible “bush experience” for their guests.

The main bedroom in our chalet.

Our chalet was a brick and thatch structure overlooking the dam with really first class facilities. Full length sliding glass doors opened onto a spacious verandah. There were two bedrooms, one with a queen size bed and the other with twin beds.

The open Land Rover seats up to ten passengers.

We assembled for the afternoon game drive at 4:15 p.m. The six of us, Jan, me, Carol, Kevin, Michelle and Avery (11), had a Land Rover to ourselves. Ranger HJ drove, while tracker Jeffrey sat on the little seat over the front left headlight. We had been cautioned to dress warmly because; even though the days were warm the nights would be chilly, especially seating in the open vehicle with a breeze in our faces much of the time. Within about ten minutes we were parked beside the carcass of a full grown male giraffe that had been killed the day before. Nine lions were either feeding or resting next to the kill. We were to return to this site each day and watch the carcass shrink and other scavengers arrive to take their turns to feed. As the lions are accustomed to the vehicles, we were able to get very close without disturbing them. As long as we remained seated, we would not be considered a threat or as a potential meal!

Lions feed on a giraffe kill

Jeffrey gets close to the wildlife

After spending half an hour watching the lion activities we drove on to search for other game and soon came across several elephant, the ever-present impala and the tiny steenbok antelope. As night fell we watched one of the lionesses from the kill come down to a water hole to drink. After refreshments we returned to the giraffe kill to watch the lions snarl and growl over their meal before eventually making our way back to the lodge at about 7:30 p.m.

A welcomed fire and dinner in the boma ends the day

Our first day in the bush would end with an enjoyable dinner served around a huge fire in the adjoining “boma,” an open air area enclosed by hand-cut wood poles lashed together to form a circular fence. We met and chatted with other guests about our day’s experiences.

Retiring for the night we thought it couldn’t get any better than this. Until day two.

Gomo Gomo and the white lions of Timbavati

2012-07-06T14:24:00.001-06:00

The way to Gomo Gomo.

Gomo Gomo is one of seven privately operated game lodges in the Timbavati Nature Reserve, a 206 square mile unfenced area of the African bush adjacent to the Kruger National Park in South Africa. The Timbavati area and the surrounding region comprised of other private properties (Sabi Sands, Klaserie, Thornybush, etc.) were, until the 1950’s, privately owned and operated as cattle ranches or big game safari destinations. A large group of conservation minded landowners came together to develop a plan for conservation and to protect the immense amount of wildlife species that thrived in this sometimes harsh environment.

Since its formation in 1956, the Timbavati Association has increased its conservation minded landowners to 50 members. Over the years, this group has worked toward a common goal, to overcome degradation within this previously pristine area, redirect insensitive land use and reclaim it for the benefit of all.

In the 1990’s, in recognition of the importance of the area, the fences between Timbavati Reserve and the Kruger National Park were removed to encourage natural species migration. A vast stretch of wild land was opened up for the free movement of wildlife through what is now effectively, a single conservation area also known as the Greater Kruger Park.

This arrangement is beneficial for both wildlife and tourists. Wildlife has access to more resources in order to meet their permanent, seasonal, and episodic needs, and tourists are offered a wider range of eco-tourism facilities. Plans are in place to have the Timbavati Reserve declared as part of the Kruger National Park, which will secure its future as a valuable piece of South African heritage. These wildlife-rich lands are now an integral part of the Kruger Park system, and are managed in cooperation with the Kruger National Park itself.

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Lions at Gomo Gomo - March 2006

March 2006 - Buffalo are plentiful in the Timbavati.

We first visited the area in August 2001, staying for three nights at Kings Camp, one of the more upscale, and expensive, private Game Lodges in the Timbavati. It was during this visit that, while viewing a small lion pride feeding on a full grown giraffe they had killed, the ranger leading us on an afternoon bush drive pointed out a powerful two year old male lion and told us that he carried the recessive “white lion” gene that was unique in the area and also in Africa. From time to time white lion cubs would be born to the prides here, we were told. In March 2006 we were fortunate to have several good lion sightings but we did not hear of any recent occurrences of white lions.

Search for “White Lions” on the internet and one will find a great deal of information. White lions are not a separate subspecies and they have been said to be indigenous to the Timbavati region of South Africa for centuries, although the earliest recorded sighting in this region was 1938. Regarded as divine by some locals, white lions first came to public attention in the 1970s in Chris McBride's book The White Lions of Timbavati. (1977). McBride’s father had become a landowner in the Timbavati area in 1948 and Chris was raised there. As a student at the University of California, Humboldt, he returned to the area to research his Masters thesis on lions. (See a YouTube video interview with Chris McBride here - http://www.youtube.com/v/TQYZbUW5Jw8)

In early 2011 we began to plan a visit to South Africa which would include a four-night stay at Gomo Gomo in July 2012. Several months in advance of our trip we began to follow Gomo Gomo’s interesting Facebook page (https://www.facebook.com/pages/Gomo-Gomo-Game-Lodge/334330557799) where rangers frequently provided activity updates and photographs, described animal sightings and commented on local events.

With just two weeks to go before we left the United States to visit South Africa several photos of a new white lion cub was posted to the Facebook page. As excited as we have been at the prospect of returning to the Timbavati Reserve, the arrival of a new white lion cub to coincide with our visit has offered us a unique opportunity to see a truly rare and special animal. Our eleven year-old granddaughter and her parents will be traveling with us and there is no doubt that they will long remember this, their first, trip to Africa and their remarkable good fortune to be able to see a rare white lion.

July 2, 2012 - a new white cub is found.
Photo from Gomo Gomo Facebook Page

White lions are not albinos. They have a genetic condition called leucism – a glitch in the genetic coding for color which causes either a reduction in or complete lack of pigmentation cells thanks to a recessive allele. Leucism does not produce the typical pink or reddish eyes associated with albinos. In fact, eye colour is hardly affected with leucism. And in the case of the white lions, their eyes are a startling blue.

We’ll see.

The words "Gomo Gomo" mean "little hills."

Sources: Gomo Gomo Facebook page. White Lions in the Timbavati by Sharon van Wyk, Jan. 13, 2011 (Global White Lion Protection Trust) Kruger National Park (Sanparks) website.

Customs and beliefs of some African peoples – Part 3

2012-06-25T14:53:00.000-06:00

In this the third and final part of this series we will discuss the relationship of the African man and his children, his home and labors, his manners and his environment.

Children

The African man and woman want children more than anything. In the older, traditional, village environment when a couple is expecting their first child the wife usually returns home to be instructed by and cared for by her mother. The first child is often born at her father’s home. After the birth the child’s father will be sent for and it may be a day or two before he can see his child over whom he assumes full parental control. He has both the rights of custody and guardianship over all the children of his marriage.

It does not really matter by whom the woman bears the children as long as she was lobola’d in which case the children always belong to the man who paid the lobola. So, if a child is conceived in an act of adultery, it still belongs to her husband. The husband may, after accepting payment for “damages” by the lover, accept a customary payment and then relinquish his right to the lover. After the child is old enough to leave its mother the natural father makes a further payment (for the rearing of his child) and then acquires full rights of custody and guardianship.

A man exercises his rights over his sons until they marry and set up their own homes. His daughters remain under his control until they are married and come under the care of their husbands. A child born as a result of his daughters’ seduction “belongs” to him and he has total discretion as to whether he will hold onto or relinquish custody to its natural father.

Though customary laws in Zimbabwe have always been strict with regard to parental rights, the courts of the country have laid down laws protecting the welfare of children. The welfare of the child is of primary importance when awarding custody. In the case of babies or toddlers who need a mother’s care, custody will often remain with her until they reach the age of about seven years.

The home and his labors

In the rural village, custom demands that there should be a clearly defined division of labor between the men and their women. The man only performs work considered worthy of his superior position in relation to his wife. The traditional woman would not expect her husband to do otherwise.

Throughout the 20^th century, as an economic necessity, many African men earned their living in domestic or other service jobs (such as housekeeping, hotel and restaurant waiters and gardeners) performing daily tasks which they would not dream of doing in their own home environment.

In her home, the African woman is responsible for all the chores connected with rearing her children and keeping her husband contented. She has her own hut, like each of her husband’s other wives. When she dies, no other woman will ever live in it and it will be left to disintegrate. She shares in the building of the hut. The husband carries the heavy poles from the surrounding “veld” and sets them up in a circle. She plasters the walls and floors and carries the long thatching grass for her husband to tie to the frame of the conical roof.

The housewife is constantly busy in the village setting. She stamps the grain and grinds the meal between two flat stones. She brews the beer, collects the firewood and water, and feeds and tends to the children. She is responsible for keeping the family larder and sees to it that there is no waste of the food supply. She also helps the husband cultivate the land. The man is primarily an agriculturalist, for he tills the land, with a plough if one is available. He takes on most of the heavy tasks, making the wooden handles for his tools, fashions the wooden pestle and mortar for his wife’s use, prepares animal skins and even weaves baskets. He is also the hunter, fashioning nets from fibrous tree bark, making snares or pits, and setting traps.

While the man has nothing to do with the village domestic tasks, the woman takes no part in the affairs of the state or tribe. It is the man who attends the meetings and voices his opinion. The older he is and the greyer his beard, the more his opinion is likely to be respected.

Much of rural tribal life relies on the “nhimbi,” a social gathering attended by men and women from nearby villagers. Men will squat on their haunches in a circle and pass around a foaming beer pot. Women gather nearby in the shade with their babies and laugh and gossip among themselves. Others will be working happily among the crops. The onerous day to day tasks are therefore shared among many. The nhimbi is an important social event. The guest workers are paid for their hard work by hospitality and tomorrow the nhimbi may be held at their homes and they will benefit from the work on many hands and provide the beer and hospitality. When the crops have been harvested threshing parties will be held and this becomes an enjoyable event. Men and women will gather on the threshing floor and beat the grain from the husks with singing and frequent intervals for a thirst-quenching quaff of beer.

The man and his manners

African people are extremely respectful to others and are polite to a fault. But wherever we go in the world we will encounter local customs that we may think show bad manners when, in fact, manners differ from culture to culture. This is very evident in African society and the multiracial societies that are found in Africa.

When a European man is addressed by a superior or when someone he respects enters the room, he will rise and remain standing as a way to show his respect. An African man, on the other hand, considers it most respectful to squat down as soon as he is addressed by a senior. When entering a room he is being polite by sitting down without waiting for an invitation to do so.

The African, like Arabs and others who have existed in countries where there is barely enough water for survival, let alone for washing, regards his right hand as his “clean” hand. He uses the right hand for conveying food to his mouth and his left hand for various unclean tasks and would not dare take food from a communal cooking pot with his left hand. Politeness demands that he use his clean hand when handing anything to someone else. When he receives a gift, he will hold out both hands. No matter how small the item may be he is indicating to you that it so big, so heavy and so generous that it takes two hands to hold it. To receive a gift with one hand as we do, belittles the gift and does not express gratitude.

If two people are talking the European would not walk between them, but the African will often do so as a way to show he intends no harm. It is very common to see a heavily laden African woman, with a bundle on her head, and perhaps a child or two in tow, walking behind a man who carries nothing but a stick or an axe. In the traditional culture, the man would be unable to protect his wife if he were encumbered with the luggage.

Those of us accustomed to the hectic, busy, western way of life tend to be very abrupt in our greetings and conversations. The traditional attitude of many Africans is far more patient and it is important to give lengthy, polite, greetings and light conversation before getting down to business. It is polite to tell a person what it is thought he wants to hear rather the blunt truth. So, when asking directions of a rural African man, you may ask, “Is it far to the nearest river?” The answer may well be “No, it is not far.” A few miles further when your thirst is becoming unbearable you will wonder why the man did not tell you the honest truth. It is because he was showing his best manners in telling you what he thought you would like to hear.

The list of differences in manners between cultures can be very long. It is very important to understand these differences and to adapt to them. Patience and understanding have never been so important. During my 13 years living in Zimbabwe I gained an immense respect and admiration for the African people with whom I came into contact. These characteristics are still evident. Even in the strife torn country that is Zimbabwe today, the men and women you meet in their society are almost always hospitable, friendly and welcoming. This is not just because their livelihood may depend on it; it is also because this is the most natural way for them to conduct themselves.

Customs and beliefs of some African peoples – Part 2

2012-06-03T10:08:00.000-06:00

The Spirits

Africans living in Zimbabwe, as in most African countries, are powerfully influenced by their spiritual beliefs. They believe in God, or the Great Spirit who created and controls the heavens, the earth and the elements. He is called Mwari, or Umlimo and he is thought to have little concern with the affairs of particular tribes or of men. He has never been mortal. Of course there are many Africans today who have come to accept the Christian faith and who know that Mwari is deeply concerned with the lives of individual men and He is approachable through the Church.

It is Mwari’s sons who are thought to be almost as powerful and who “possess” the bodies of mediums through which they communicate with man. Many of these have the power to make rain. Some of their names are Chaminuka, Nehanda and Nyamuswa. When the powerful human medium (host) dies, the spirit may not choose another for a long period of time but it will “come out” later in another human who will be recognized as the temporal home of the spirit and who will be revered by others. The power of these individuals to sway opinion and direct the affairs of vast numbers of people should not be underestimated.

Tribal spirits are all ancestral and of a lower order. These are spirits of the first chiefs, who look after the interests of the tribes and punish their transgressions. Their relationship with the tribes is linked through the present day Chiefs, but they communicate through mediums (called swikiros). Hallowed as these swikiros may be, it is the family spirits which hold paramount importance in the traditional tribes-people’s lives.

A family does not consist only of its living members. Departed male ancestors are still a part of the family and are concerned with the health and well being of those on earth. They watch over them and guard them unless they themselves are neglected and forgotten. The living therefore worship their ancestors and consult them in all important family matters. Some families will use the services of diviners, while some may have their own medium in the family through whom the spirits speaks. The medium may go into a trance and may not remember afterward what he said or did.

There are many more aspects of the spiritual influences on traditional Africans. Some spirits, such as the “shave” (sha-vee) might be the graveless wandering shade of a person who was not afforded customary rites on his death. Another is the “Ngozi, or the spirit of a man or woman who died with a grievance and who might be seeking revenge.” These multiple spiritual influences are very powerful and even highly educated and “modern” Africans will defer to their relatives' beliefs in many aspects of their lives.

The Chiefs

The Chief is the most important man in his tribal area. His election to the chieftainship has the full support of his followers and their tribal spirits. He becomes the intermediary between the people and their ancestors seeing to the peoples’ welfare and maintains order. His role is spiritual, judicial and administrative. Selection of the chief differs for the Matabele and the Shona tribal groups.

The Matabele chief who passes away is replaced by his oldest son - a primogeniture system, similar to that of the succession, for example, of the English monarchy. This system may, quite possibly, result in the selection of a young king. In a warrior tribe, this system would give rise to a brave warrior chief who could lead the tribe in battle.

The Shona custom is a system of “collateral succession” which, in most cases, will provide an elderly man. The Shona regard maturity as equal in value to bravery, and this system ensures that grey-haired rulers will assume the Chief’s role.

In the book referred to in Part 1 of this blog there is a good example of how this system works. Say Chief Goredema was the first chief of the nucleus of a tribe. He has four sons by his first (senior) wife and the oldest is Mutsvago, then Marimba, then Ningi and finally Tsuru. When Goredema dies, the chieftainship passes to Mutsvago. When Mutsvago dies he is succeeded, not by his son, but by the oldest surviving male of the house of Marimba, then to Ningi and finally to the oldest surviving male member of the house of Tsuru. When the houses of all four brothers have held the chieftainship, it passes back to the house of Mutsvago and the whole complicated process is repeated down through the generations.

As there were no written records before the early 1900s, and no birth records, this system would often result in many old men laying claim to the chieftainship. So how would this succession riddle be resolved? The spirit mediums would consult the old chief Goredema, who died many generations ago. He will tell the people who the rightful successor should be.

In Zimbabwe Africans can decide whether to have their grievances aired in the Government court system or whether to have their problems resolved in the tribal courts. Both verdicts are given legal recognition. Unlike government courts, tribal leaders are more likely to go out of their way to bring about reconciliation between the parties. Under the British system, as in the American system, a confessed murdered, for example, might be found not guilty due to a legal technicality. Tribesmen would consider this grossly unjust. It is worth noting that Africans in Zimbabwe can also choose to be married in the Christian faith, and having done so, they cannot then decide to return to the village and acquire other wives.

It is worth noting that since the earliest occupation of Zimbabwe by the British, the government has left the selection of Chiefs to the tribal members according to their age-old customs. Once an heir has been accepted then he is given recognition by the Government.

These days, the administrative responsibilities of Chiefs have grown enormously and include local government, community projects, establishment of business centers and rural schools and hospitals and so on. As one would expect, many of the Chiefs today are well-educated and more capable of dealing with these responsibilities than they might have been 50 or more years ago.

Marriage

The traditional African tribesman does not regard himself as an individual in the way that a European does, but rather as part of a greater whole. His continuing existence after death is achieved through having children. His oldest son will replace him and take his name and perhaps even having children with his wives, except for the son’s own mother.

The oldest surviving son is responsible for the debts his deceased father may have had, for the care of his family, and for maintaining the good will of his ancestral spirits. Continuing the life stream beyond death has given rise to the forms of marriage that have evolved over centuries. When a couple marry, a very close relationship is established between their two families; much closer than is generally the case in a “western” marriage. The marriage contract is between families, not between the husband and wife as individuals. If the couple quarrels, their families may go to great lengths to prevent the union from dissolving.

There are several forms of traditional marriage, two of which have not been permitted for over a century. (One is the taking of a wife by a captor during a tribal war; and the other is pledging of a child for the payment of a debt.) The most common forms of customary marriage, recognized in law in Zimbabwe, involve the payment of “lobolo,” generally in cattle, by the groom’s family to the bride’s father. When a father accepts lobolo in respect of his daughter he undertakes to furnish the bridegroom’s family with the children who are so necessary for a continued existence. In some tribes it may be the custom to withhold lobolo until the wife has proved herself by producing an infant.

After payment of lobolo, if the wife proves to be unable to bear children the husband has the right to claim a refund or another woman of his wife’s family, often a younger sister. If the husband proves to be sterile his brother may be called upon to father a child by his wife.

What happens to the lobolo that the father of the daughter receives? To ensure against the possibility of having no grandchildren, he may use this lobolo to purchase a wife for his son. In the past, and probably today, it was common to pair off his sons and daughters so that each son knows from which sister his own lobolo will come.

Lobolo serves in many ways as an insurance policy. It insures that children will be born to them to carry the family into the future. It helps assure a successful marriage by encouraging good conduct on the part of the husband, for it he ill-treats his wife she may leave him and he forfeits the right of any refund of the lobolo his family paid. On the other hand, the father is responsible for the good behavior of his daughter. If she is lazy, or a bad cook, of nags and scolds her husband, she may be sent back to her father to learn how to behave.

Polygamy is still practiced in Zimbabwe although many Africans enter into marriages solemnized in the Christian Faith. Even in these marriages however, lobolo will generally pass between families. The High Court of Rhodesia ruled that such payments are permissible in a Christian marriage as far back as 1912.

The death of a husband does not necessarily end the marriage for his widow. She remains with his family and is later inherited by his brother or one of his sons. This is a custom similar to that illustrated in Chapter 25 verse 5 of Deuteronomy.

In Part 3 of this series we will discuss the relationship of the African man and his children, his home and labors, his manners and his environment.

Customs and beliefs of some African peoples – Part 1

2012-05-27T10:41:00.000-06:00

Living in the USA or in any highly industrialized country, we are insulated from daily, or even occasional, contact with people of significantly different cultures. Americans, whether from the Deep South or upstate New York, and whether black, white, or Hispanic, share similar customs. We often assume simply because we do certain things in our everyday lives, other human beings do them too – even if they are people of a completely different race and culture.

Growing up in South Africa from the age of 12, I was aware of many differences between the customs and cultures of white (or European) and black (African) people. It was only when I moved to Rhodesia (Zimbabwe) in 1967 that I became much more aware of the differences. I left behind a country where the leaders tried very hard to keep the races separate. “Apartheid” was in full gear in South Africa in those times. Everything was segregated. There were many occupations that blacks were not permitted to perform. For example, you never saw black truck or bus drivers. There were no black tellers in banks or in post offices. Separate “homelands” were designated for blacks and so opportunities for that race in the major cities were limited to menial or labor-intensive jobs.

The situation and status of blacks in Rhodesia was completely different. During my first visit to that country in 1966 I was surprised to see blacks in just about every occupation. Front desk hotel staff, bank tellers, salesmen, and mid to upper management positions in government agencies were often filled by indigenous Africans. I joined a major packaging manufacturer in 1971 and worked with very talented staff in sales, production and accounting positions. Working with these guys over the years I got to know a little bit about their traditional cultures, how they had moved to a more “westernized” culture, and some of the problems this had created for them. As much as a man may have educated himself and moved away from the village to become integrated into the new economic and technological environment of “western” society, there was still a powerful commitment to the family and culture he left behind.

In a country like Zimbabwe, the significant cultural differences between races could easily lead to misunderstandings over the simplest everyday issues. As both races were dependent on each other, it was important to learn as much about one another as possible. Much of the following narrative is taken from a book that I acquired in 1970 and which was very helpful to me in understanding the customs of the two predominant African tribes living in Zimbabwe. The book is titled “The Man - and His Ways.” It was distributed by the Rhodesian Ministry of Information, Immigration and Tourism. It was not intended to be a text book on the beliefs and customs of the African people, but it was recommended as a general introduction to describe the differences between rural African beliefs and those of white Rhodesians in the 1970s.

There are two main African tribes in the country, the AmaNdebele and the Mashona. The Mashona probably arrived in the area about 1,000 years ago. Before the Mashona the country was widely, but sparsely, populated by the small statured Bushman who had not advanced beyond the Stone Age. The Bushman would, over time, be displaced westwards to the remote vastness of the Kalahari. In the 1830s the AmaNdebele, an offshoot of the warrior Zulu nation of southeastern South Africa (now KwaZulu-Natal) arrived in the south west of the country and began to ravage and plunder the numerous Mashona tribal groups which lived in disunity in the remainder of the country. All of these people had migrated from North Africa over a long period of time, for well over 1,000 years. Their long journey was dictated by the seasons, by tribal conflict, and by need. Land was abundant and there was no urge to preserve its abundant resources.

A tribe would settle in an area, build huts from readily available materials (poles and thatch) and cultivate small patches of crop such as millet. This, together with meat from the hunt, wild honey, fruits, roots and fish, formed the basis of their diet. This was entirely a “subsistence” economy. Storage was difficult so in years of good rains, there was abundance and nothing was kept against the likelihood of drought the next year. The future, in these circumstances, could look after itself.

Each member of the tribe was wholly dependent upon the fellow members of their tribe and family. They were all surrounded by danger and had no means of protection, apart from that of the community. There was no room for individuality and the wealth of a tribe was measured in people and in cattle, with the strongest preying upon the weakest. Of course, over time, laws and customs became vital to regulating the affairs of the tribes and these would be applied by the tribal chiefs. These customs and laws were handed down by word of mouth, as the tribes had no form of writing. Most of these customs were recognized in the courts of Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe) after the late 1800s when the country was settled by westerners.

Even though there are two main African tribes in Zimbabwe, the numbers of different tribal groups within these two tribes are many, so it is easy to assume that the custom in one village will be similar in villages nearby. There is considerable variation among customs although overall the fundamental beliefs will be the same throughout the country. For example the way that weddings are arranged will differ widely from village to village, whereas the practice of “lobolo” or bride price is concerned, this will fundamentally be the same everywhere.

Of course African law, and thinking, has been subjected to European influence for over 100 years. For example, many “modern” African people today will choose to be married in the church and will have one partner according to Christian beliefs. Cash has replaced the hoe as a token and many other new ideas have been accepted.

Unlike Europeans, the more traditional African does not regard himself as an individual distinct from the rest of his tribal group. He feels himself to be part of a unit, be it tribe or family and to that unit he owes certain obligations in exchange for which he derives many benefits. His family, or tribal group, is extended to include the spirits of the departed and they have a great influence on his actions and his thinking. The solid foundation of any tribal group is the ordinary family. The head of the family has certain responsibilities, the most importance being to maintain family unity. He can’t achieve this without consultation, so all matters affecting his small group are thoroughly discussed with the family, and his decision is a family affair based on a consensus of opinion. In important matters, he consults the spirits of past members, and seeks their guidance.

During generations of struggle and survival the traditional African has acquired a passive fatalism. Misfortune is often regarded as due to witchcraft or is an expression of displeasure by the spirits. There was nothing a person could do to avoid it so he gave little or no thought to tomorrow. He conserved his energies and blamed everything bad on something else. Even today, we might hear the excuse “I was failed by the examination” rather than “I failed!”

The African loves laughter. His needs are few and simple and when they are satisfied he is inclined to sit back, for time, he believes, is given to everyone for nothing. It has no value so why hurry to do today what can be postponed until tomorrow? Land and water have also been put here for his use, so they, like time, can be wasted. Let tomorrow look after itself!

So how do the distinctly different beliefs of the African and the European merge in a third world country in which the future of each is so dependent on the other? Just as the rural, and traditional, African man must learn the customs of the European, so must the European learn the background of the African and treat him with respect, patience and courtesy. Those whose missionary work exposed them directly to the most basic tribal beliefs were daily confronted by a need for patience. A mother who was diagnosed with a condition requiring a prescription for antibiotics, for example, would be instructed to take one daily for two weeks. Why not, she would reason, take them all at once? Surely that would be the most effective way to be cured.

_________________________________

In Part 2 of this narrative I will write about the traditional African man, his spirits, his wives and children and his relationship to the land.

Visiting Timbavati Private Game Reserve

2012-05-07T13:20:00.000-06:00

On August 26, 2001 we left the USA on South African Airways out of Atlanta for an overnight flight to Johannesburg. We were traveling with Jerry and Joni Lund from Crested Butte, Colorado, who had never been to Africa before. Arriving in the morning, we rented a car and drove to Pretoria, visiting old friends for tea and then doing a leisurely walk in the gardens in front of the Union Buildings, where Nelson Mandela’s office was located. From there we headed east to Lydenburg where we had booked accommodations at the very nice B&B, the “Manor Guest House.” (Note: We will be staying there again this coming July and highly recommend it to anyone traveling in this area of South Africa.)

After a restful night’s sleep and a hardy breakfast we took the beautiful scenic route to Hoedspruit down the Abel Erasmus Pass, stopping, on the way, to see the Bourke’s Luck Potholes and to admire the incredible scenic overlooks across the Blyde River Canyon. Soon after passing through the town of Hoedspruit we turned to enter the gravel road to the Timbavati Private Game Reserve.

Our drive continued through quaint villages and as we neared Kings Camp we saw monkeys, baboons, eland and giraffe through the game fence along the gravel road. Kings Camp, aptly named because the guests are treated like kings, is situated in the Timbavati Private Nature Reserve, part of the extended greater Kruger National Park. It is one of the upscale and fairly expensive game lodges in the area. Arriving just before the afternoon game drive was beginning we immediately began our game viewing adventure in the heart of the bush just 20 minutes later. Our luggage was whisked into the luxurious air-conditioned chalets and we boarded an open land rover for the drive. So, a mere 48 hours after leaving the US we were in the middle of the African bush – what a change!

Kings Camp friendly & expert Rangers & trackers

Patrick was our ranger-guide and Paul, the tracker, rode on a seat on the front fender. Soon after we left camp we drove to a site overlooking a river and saw a herd of buffalo numbering over 100. We encountered a breeding herd of elephant including tiny babies that stayed close to their mothers. While driving through the bush we came upon a mature male lion lying by the road. He sat up to give us a look but soon continued his rest.

We stopped for sundowners by a dam and enjoyed cheese and biscuits, biltong sausage rolls and peanuts with raisins along with our drinks. The hostess included extra food since we told her we had missed lunch. In the failing light of the setting red sun we made our way to see five lions feeding on a mature female giraffe they had taken earlier that day. In the bright light of three land rovers we saw and heard the gnawing on flesh and tearing of skin. All the while Joni was exclaiming her disbelief at what she was seeing. We put on our jackets and huddled under blankets for the chilly drive back to camp.

Jan in front of the Kings Camp luxury chalets

We had time to explore our roomy accommodations and shower before dinner. The sleigh bed was canopied with a dramatic mosquito net. Turn down service provided chocolate mints on the pillows and switched on the electric heating pads in the beds. There was a sofa, coffee table covered with books and a side chair as well as a desk. A lovely arrangement of flowers stood tall in a corner vase. Luxurious terry robes were provided and the bathroom had a tub, 2 sinks and 2 showers—one glassed indoors and one in a walled garden outdoors. Of course there was bubble bath, shampoo and moisturizer provided too, as well as coffee/tea service, a stocked refrigerator and hair dryer.

Drinks were served in the lounge before dinner. The linen and crystal service on the tables enhanced the cuisine of tomato soup starter, Thai chicken, vegetables and potatoes and a pastry topped with whipped cream for dessert. Patrick joined us at our table and willingly answered all the questions we had and said he would be sure we had a wake-up call at “dark-thirty” (5:30 a.m.) the next morning for our game drive.

Wednesday, August 29

Everyone gathered for coffee and rusks before we again boarded the Land Rovers. The couple that had been with us the night before was leaving that day so we had the Land Rover all to ourselves. Shortly after the gorgeous sunrise Paul set out on foot in the bush to track a leopard that was in the area. Patrick drove us back to the lion kill and it was even more amazing in the daylight. The 3 female and 2 male lions had eaten quite a bit during the night and some were sleeping while others continued to pull and chew on the carcass. We saw the hyena we had heard in the night stalking at a distance and noticed the vultures gathering in the treetops waiting their turn. Butterflies floated through the bush; after all it was springtime. We saw the buffalo herd again, hippo, elephants, impala - lots of impala, and the tiny antelope called a steenbok. We never knew what we would see around the next turn. Paul found fresh spoor (footprints) of the leopard and her cub but we didn’t see them.

We returned to camp for a full breakfast buffet of fruit, yogurt, cheese, pancakes, sausage, bacon, eggs, potatoes, mushrooms, eggplant, tomatoes and baked beans. We then had time to explore our surroundings, test the cool water in the swimming pool, shop in the gift shop, write post cards and rest before high tea was served early afternoon. It was a warm sunny day, just perfect for an outdoor shower. Joe took advantage of the workout room and ran on the treadmill for a while.

As we began the afternoon drive Paul continued to track Java, the leopard. We returned to the lion kill, which was beginning to smell. The lions were still feeding, although two walked away for a drink nearby and then returned and others were content and napping. We saw a small herd of young bachelor elephants that waved their ears and eyed us suspiciously. We interrupted the game drive for the traditional “sundowners” and enjoyed drinks and snacks. Other game to check off our list was the small spotted genet, civet, and a duiker. All the while Patrick was keeping in touch with Paul by radio as he tracked the leopard. She was spotted near camp and the three vehicles converged in the area. We had given up and almost returned to camp when one land rover caught her in its light walking in the wide sandy riverbed. The baboons in the trees were barking, they had seen the leopard, too. Patrick turned around and we headed that way. It was worth the wait to see her. She was so beautiful and majestic as she walked right past us, so close we could have touched her. What a thrill!

Leopard in the headlights

There was lively conversation at dinner that night which was served under the stars in a boma (a roughly enclosed area around a blazing fire). We were served typical African fare on warmed plates: impala, sausage, curried vegetables, corn on the cob, potatoes and more vegetables. Joni loved the impala filet. She said, “Yum yum!” Thereafter whenever we saw impala she repeated, “Yum yum!” It really is delicious and frequently served. Thrilled with the day’s sightings we didn’t tarry around the fire in the welcoming chairs knowing that we had another early morning drive ahead. We were pleased to find our clean laundry waiting in our rooms.

Thursday, August 30

During the night we heard buffalo walk through camp between the bungalows and were told 2 male lions followed them. We again had a 5:30 AM wake up call and coffee before we began our final drive. Fresh rhino spoor was found and we drove through the bush looking for them but had no luck. That sight would have completed the “Big Five” since we had already seen lion, leopard, buffalo and elephant. We didn’t see much game except impala and mongoose. Paul noticed fresh leopard footprints, too. Then he noticed the Land Rover had a flat tire, so we watched as they changed it and then we returned to camp.

A stop for petrol along the road to Kruger Park

We had breakfast, then packed our car and left for our next adventure. We returned to the town (Hoedspruit) to change more money into Rand. While Joe and Jerry were in the bank, Joni walked around and talked with the people. We then made the three hour drive to Satara Camp in Kruger National Park.

Introducing the Kruger National Park

2012-04-30T15:58:00.001-06:00

I first visited South Africa's Kruger National Park (KNP) in 1958 at the age of 14. In the last 12 years Jan and I have visited several times. Each trip has provided wildlife viewing above our expectations. We plan to return in July this year and so I thought I would introduce readers to this remarkable wildlife sanctuary now, because I will be posting frequent stories and photos while we are there.

Map of the KNP

Located in the northeast corner of South Africa, the KNP is one of the ten largest game reserves in the world. The tropic of Capricorn crosses the park. (see photo here) It was originally proclaimed as the Sabi Reserve in 1898 by the President of the Transvaal Republic, Paul Kruger. Its original size was about 1,780 sq. miles. An enlarged area was formally designated the Kruger National Park in 1926. Now it covers an area of 7,600 square miles. It is being merged with the Limpopo National Park in Mozambique and the Gona re Zhou Park in Zimbabwe to form the Greater Limpopo Transfrontier Park. This remarkable initiative will result in a 13,500 sq. mile conservation area that will be one of the largest in the world.

Ultimately the goal is to create a fence-free park, allowing historic wildlife migration routes to be expanded, provide significant employment and income opportunities for rural people and greatly expand Eco-tourism potential in the region.

The driving distance in the park, from Pafuri Gate in the north to Crocodile Bridge in the south is 250 miles.

Animals in KNP have the right-of-way.

The uniqueness of KNP is that one can self-drive and see an amazing variety of mammals, birds and reptiles. Although you can't drive off of the vast system of paved and graveled roads in the park the game-viewing is excellent.

Reasonably priced accommodations are offered, in the many fenced camps from camp-sites, RV parks, chalets, lodges etc. There are several high end luxury lodges as well.

Even the smallest species have right of way.

The South African National Parks excellent web pages http://www.sanparks.org/parks/kruger/ provide comprehensive information on trip routes, accommodations, gas (petrol), restaurants, game viewing, weather and so on.

Marshall Eagle

The Park is unrivaled in the diversity of its life forms and a world leader in advanced environmental management techniques and policies. Truly the flagship of the South African national parks, Kruger is home to an impressive number of species: 336 trees, 49 fish, 34 amphibians, 114 reptiles, 507 birds and 147 mammals.

Cape Buffalo near Punda Maria Camp in the north.

The KNP is easily accessible, of course, to most South Africans by a modern highway system and it is a favorite vacation destination during school holidays. When planning visits to South Africa it is always a good idea to Google 'SA School Calendar' and pick those periods when schools are not closed.

I will write about some of the KNP rest camps we have visited and describe the private games reserve areas to the west of the park in upcoming blog posts.

If you have had experiences in the Kruger Park I welcome your comments and opinions.

Kariba

2012-04-07T11:18:00.001-06:00

Most people who have never been to southern Africa are not aware that there is a very big lake on the Zambezi River called Lake Kariba. “Kariba” as the locals call it was, at the completion of its construction in 1960, the largest man-made lake in the world. It is four times the size of the notable Three Gorges Dam in China. From the small town built on the hills overlooking the dam wall, the lake stretches 140 miles (290km) to the southeast and is about 20 miles (32km) wide on average.

Map shows Lake Kariba - Zambia to the north, Zimbabwe to the south

The massive project was undertaken to provide hydroelectric power for the growing industries of Zimbabwe and Zambia. Two power stations, one on the Zambian bank and the other on the Zimbabwean side are in full operation. Covering an area of 5,580 square kilometers (2,150 sq mi), its storage capacity is an immense 185 cubic kilometers (44.4 cu mi). The lake began to fill in 1958 and would become a year-round source of water for an abundance of animal and bird life, and a sunny playground for both local and foreign tourists. In places the lake is over 300 feet (90M) deep. A large commercial fishing industry developed here providing tons of sardine-like “kapenta” which provides a significant source of protein for a predominantly African clientele. There are huge populations of hippo and Nile crocodile in residence here and on the shorelines and major Game Reserves on the southern shore have incredible populations of wildlife.

The history of the construction of this engineering marvel, the story of the taming of the “River God” Nyaminyami, and the story of one of the most impressive wildlife rescue operations (Operation Noah) ever carried out in Africa, make for interesting reading. As the waters rose to flood the valley, over 5,000 animals were rescued, including 35 different mammal species and 44 black rhino. Frightened creatures ranging from elephant to snakes were captured for release into areas that now form Matusadona National Park and Chete Safari Area.

February 1970, two flood gates open

My first visit to Kariba was between Christmas 1966 and the New Year. I was on a trip to “Rhodesia” from my home, at the time, in Grahamstown, South Africa where I was working at Rhodes University. My friend Andrew Campbell-Watt who had been a fellow student at Rhodes, was living in Salisbury at the time. He and I undertook a tour in my red Volkswagen Beetle and our first destination was Lake Kariba. It was love at first sight for me and after I moved to Rhodesia the following July, it would be the scene of a number of memorable experiences.

One of the most striking things about the lake is its huge size. There are times when you are in a small boat that you lose sight of the shore completely and have to navigate by compass (or GPS today!). A ferry boat service runs from one end of the lake to the other and it is usually an overnight journey of 12 hours. To put its size in perspective, traveling from one end to the other would be a similar distance as driving from Colorado Springs to Cheyenne, Wyoming.

December is the middle of the hottest season of the year, and the Zambezi River Valley can be extremely hot and uncomfortable. Cooling lake breezes offer relief from the heat. Viewing wildlife, particularly elephant from a boat, allows you to drift up close and the animals seem less threatened than when observed from the land. In August 1971, when our infant son was just four months old, Joan and I flew with my brother John in a Cessna for a weekend visit to Bumi Hills Lodge in the Matusadona National Park on the south shore of the lake. With us was my younger brother David who was 16 years old and visiting from South Africa during a school break. Bumi Hills was later re-built as a much more modern (and expensive) hotel but at the time it was fairly rustic. The only way to reach the hotel was by boat or by aircraft. Flying across the remote African bush from Salisbury (now Harare) and then being able to fly over the dam and above the massive dam wall in the gorge was pretty breathtaking. A few photos from that visit are shown here.

Approaching Bumi Hills from the air - August 1971.

The old Bumi Hills in 1971

A later visit to Lake Kariba came in July 1986. Joan had passed away in December 1985 and I took Alan (then 15), Graham (13) and Carol (12) back to Zimbabwe for a five week visit. We stayed with their grandfather in Harare but old friends took us with them to the lake for a one week camping trip. Jim and Jacquie Weller and their two sons, Nigel (then 16) and Phillip (14) had a motorboat which we packed with provisions and supplies. We launched the boat from Andora Harbour at Kariba and made the 20 mile crossing to the Matusadona National Park twice to get everyone and all the supplies to the camping area at Tashinga. Typical of Zimbabwe National Parks, this camp ground, despite its remoteness, had very nice showers and ablutions. We pitched our tents and cooked over wood fires on grills that were set up for that purpose.

This was a memorable adventure for our family. Our camp was about 200 yards from the lake shore across a gently sloping area of open grass. During the days we would go out fishing and game viewing, usually returning in the late afternoon. Elephant and hippo could be seen most of the time and buffalo would graze across the open area near our tents. One evening I remember we had asked the four boys to bring everything back from the boat when the sun had already set. After a while we heard this young voice calling, “Dad, there’s a buffalo standing on the path! We can’t get back to camp.”
We answered with some sage advice, suggesting they be patient and wait until the buffalo moved on. Ten or fifteen minutes later the boys got back safely.

Late one night I heard a noise next to my tent (a pup tent for me) and picking up my torch (flashlight) I lifted the flap of the tent and came face to face with a huge Cape buffalo bull eating grass about ten feet away. He looked even more “huge” of course because I was lying on the ground and looking up at him. Eventually he wandered away and peace was restored.

On a few occasions I had to take a commercial airline flight from Harare to Kariba and on one trip the pilot had to buzz the airfield to chase a herd of elephant away, before he could land safely. This was, evidently, a common occurrence.

One of my most memorable visits to Lake Kariba was in September 1978. A friend, Rudi Cassette, and I flew to Kariba on the afternoon of September 2nd. We spent much of the following day meeting with clients who were planning to construct a fish-canning plant near the town of Kariba. Rudi was our company Research & Development representative and we met with Lauris Zuchinni of Liebigs Foods. Our discussions went well and ended after a lengthy tour of the proposed factory site and a light lunch at one of the local hotels. Lauris had planned to fly back to Salisbury later that afternoon on a regularly scheduled Air Rhodesia Vickers Viscount. Rudi and I had scheduled to fly back to the city the next morning because that flight had been fully booked.
That evening we booked a “sunset cruise” and went out on the lake with a dozen other guests, sipped some wine and watched the orange sun sink into the lake. It was cool and calm and enjoyable and the surface of the lake was like glass. We were able to sail up close to several commercial fishing rigs and watched as they hauled up large nets full of glistening kapenta. We returned to our hotel at Caribbea Bay, and retired for the night.

The next morning we met at breakfast and became aware of much intense discussion at other tables. A phone call came for me from my boss in Harare. He asked, “Have you heard what happened?” I, of course, had no idea what they were talking about.

My boss told me that the Air Rhodesia Flight 825, which had departed from Kariba the previous afternoon had been shot down by terrorists (called “guerillas” by the politically correct crowd) using a Strela 2 ground-to-air missile. This was a civilian flight and although some passengers survived, our friend and customer Lauris Zuchinni had been killed. He was a friend and an extraordinarily talented engineer. The incident had been on the news the previous night but because we had gone out on the lake and then straight to bed when we returned, neither of us had heard anything about it.

We of course, quickly changed our plans and were able to rent a car and made the six hour drive back to the city in a convoy, escorted by armed vehicles manned by Police Reservists. I had originally scheduled our return to town on Flight 825 but waited too late to make the reservation. You can read about the shooting down of Flight RH825 on Wikipedia and in other news accounts on Google. Five months later, on February 12, 1979, another civilian aircraft (RH827) was struck by a similar missile en-route from Kariba to Salisbury, killing all 59 passengers.

Twenty-eight years after our 1971 flying visit to Bumi Hills, in August 1999, Jan and I returned to Zimbabwe and, together with old friends Barry and Hilary Blair and Jacquie Weller we shared the rental of a large boat (The Stormvogel) on the lake, spending five days exploring the shoreline and watching the huge numbers of game animals and birds that populate this magical place. While anchored in an inlet in the Matusadona area, we took two small dinghies across the bay and walked up the hill to the new Bumi Hills Lodge to have lunch. Along the way we had to stand quietly and wait for a mother elephant and her calf to stroll across the road in front of us. Then we watched a warthog digging for bulbs and roots in the manicured lawn of the hotel.

At nearby Tashinga, a National Parks Wildlife station and camping area, we enjoyed walking with a group of young black rhinos. These orphans had been saved from poachers and were being taking out each day to feed, attended by a game ranger. One morning, while we were having breakfast on the deck of the yacht we watched a huge crocodile glide slowly across the water below us. The previous night we had heard lions roaring in the distance. Listening to the short-wave radio the next morning we learned that an 18 year-old British intern at a safari camp had been attacked and killed by a lame, and very hungry, lioness. He was dragged from his tent shortly after turning in. This kind of tragic event is rare in African Safari camps, but it illustrates how wild and remote the wilderness areas around Kariba are.

So, Kariba holds a special place in over six decades of my memories. Africa is not generally associated with tales of adventures on water. But Kariba is a unique area and anyone who may ever have an opportunity to visit it should not pass it up.

Africa facts and reality

2012-03-27T13:02:00.000-06:00

The continent of Africa is three times the size of the United States (all 50 states). There are 56 countries in Africa.

What sets Africa apart from all other continents? Because Africa straddles the tropical latitudes, there is no severe winter as experienced in Northern Europe, Asia or North America. This is referred to as the “winter-gap.”

Of all the major land masses or continents, Africa has been the least subject to major earthquakes, tremors, typhoons, hurricanes and other forms of devastation.

It is one of the ironies of European penetration of Africa that it was not the wild and gigantic beasts of eastern and southern Africa which frightened Europeans away; it was in fact the tiny insects of the west coast and central Africa which made Europeans nervous. “Not by the roar of the lion but by the buzz of the mosquito were the fears of the white man aroused.” (quote from "The Africans - A Triple Heritage" by Ali A. Mazrui, BBC Publications, 1986)

The Sahara Desert is almost the size of the United States. Only 15% of the Sahara Desert is covered with sand dunes.

From 5,000 to 7,500 years ago Africa’s Sahara Desert was lush and green with plentiful wildlife and a great network of trade routes linking the Mediterranean coast with that of West Africa. From about 4,000 years ago (2,000 B.C.) the climate began to change and the Sahara was transformed to what it is today.

The SAHEL is the southern edge of the Sahara Desert. “Sahel” is derived from an Arabic word meaning “shore.” The Sahel is defined by annual rainfall – an average of 8 inches in the north to 24-28 inches in the south. It is prone to frequent and prolonged periods of drought. It is across this narrow band of the continent that destructive locust swarms periodically destroy the inhabitant’s already meager crops.

The Sahel Region of Africa

For many centuries, Arab traders and nomads have crossed the Sahara Desert by camel and on horseback to expand the word of Islam. Why did their influence stop at the Sahel? Why didn’t the early western explorers find camels, horses, and Arab traders among the cultures and tribes of central, eastern and southern Africa.

There are two main reasons. . . .

1. The mosquito and the mosquito-borne disease malaria, and

2. The tsetse fly and the diseases it transmits to humans

(Sleeping Sickness) and livestock (Nagana).

Malaria is very prevalent in regions which have significant amounts of rainfall and consistent hot temperatures. These warm, consistent temperatures and moisture provide mosquitoes with the environment they need to breed continuously. The malaria parasite is injected into the blood stream by the bite of the Anopheles mosquito and multiplies within the red blood cells. After an incubation of 7-14 days there will be loss of energy, headache, muscle pains and vomiting. The individual will have cold and shivers, then high fever and sweating. Untreated, malaria carries a significant mortality. A traveler can avoid malaria by taking anti-malaria drugs, such as Malarone. Mosquitos are active in the evening so long sleeves, insect repellent and mosquito netting are good precautions.

The Tsetse Fly is the root of Africa’s poverty. No other region of the world suffers the same animal health problems as the tsetse fly imposes on Africa.

Tsetse fly infested areas of Africa

Sleeping Sickness and Nagana are diseases transmitted by the Tsetse Fly. According to the deputy director-general of the International Atomic Energy Agency (IAEA) "It is no accident that the concentration of much of the world's most acute poverty is in regions of sub-Saharan Africa infested with tsetse." Some experts say that Trypanosomiasis (the pathogen that causes sleeping sickness and nagana) helps create African "green deserts" -- 10 million square kilometers of otherwise lush and fertile land that is not in production because of the tsetse fly. This includes land in 32 of the world's poorest countries.

The presence of the disease, Nagana, which is deadly to most cattle, prevents rural villagers from using cattle or horses as draft animals which could improve their agricultural productivity by 25 to 45%. "Allowing more African farmers to own livestock would have a profound impact on hunger and poverty in the continent, but that cannot be achieved without the elimination of the tsetse fly." Native breeds of cattle (Zebu) are only somewhat resistant to Nagana. Cross-bred cattle whose milk production is NINE times the native breeds, cannot survive in tsetse fly areas.

Ironically, it is the presence of the tsetse fly (and the diseases that it carries) across great tracts of Africa that protected land from over-development during the last century of European settlement and expansion. This enabled both the colonial rulers and subsequently the governments of independent states to develop their wildlife resources by establishing National Parks and Wildlife Management areas. The Game Reserves of Kenya, Tanzania, South Africa, Zimbabwe and Botswana almost certainly would not have been set aside for the conservation of wildlife had they been of economic value for ranching and crop production.

The tsetse fly thrives in an environment where there are large populations of wildlife providing an unlimited and year-round supply of essential mammalian blood on which they must feed to survive and reproduce.

In 1996, the IAEA assisted in the development of a technique of sterilizing the male tsetse fly using radiation. Large numbers of sterilized males are released into the countryside. The female fly only mates once in her lifetime, and so the larvae that she lays once every week to ten days does not live. In a trial conducted on the isolated island of Zanzibar, off of the East African coast, the tsetse fly population was eradicated and farming productivity rose dramatically in the years following this trial. The use of this technique on the African mainland holds hope for similar results, but campaigns would require large financial and human resources, and close cooperation across borders and government jurisdictions to achieve long-term success.

Additional information from WHO (World Health Organization) and CDC (Centers for Disease Control and Prevention):

Nearly 45,000 cases of sleeping sickness were reported in Africa in 1999. After continued control efforts, the number of cases reported in 2009 has dropped below 10,000 for the first time in 50 years.

There are two subspecies of the parasite Trypanosoma brucei that cause infection.

(1) T. brucei gambiense is found in west and central Africa. This form currently accounts for over 95% of reported cases of sleeping sickness.

(2) T. brucei rhodesiense is found in Eastern and Southern Africa and represents under 5% of reported cases.

Tsetse flies bite during daylight hours. They are attracted to bright, dark colors. Permethrin impregnated clothing and use of DEET repellent may reduce the number of fly bites.

Early bite swellings are usually an allergic reaction and not a sign of sleeping sickness infection. Tanzania is reporting fewer than 100 new cases per year, mostly among rural farmers in central Tanzania.

For reasons that are unexplained, there are many regions where tsetse flies are found, but sleeping sickness is not. Infection of international travelers occurs but is extremely rare. On average, a single case per year is reported among U.S. travelers to all areas of Africa.

Building a house

2012-03-23T15:13:00.002-06:00

It is about two months since my last blog. No excuses, except to say we have been very busy. Our BookCrafters publishing business has been hectic but very rewarding and we have made progress in planning our South Africa tour which begins on July 13, 2012.

Working on some old photographs, I came across a few that recall the purchase of our 1-1/3rd acre lot in the northern suburbs of Salisbury (now Harare, of course) and subsequently the construction of our modest home. Joan and I were married in February 1969 and immediately flew off to spend several months in Paarl, in the expansive, and very beautiful, fruit-growing region of the Western Cape Province of South Africa. I had left my job as an entomologist and had joined the Rhodesian Food Corporation. My new employer sent me off to spend four months on a training course, working at one of the largest canning plants, at the time, in the world - H. Jones & Company.

I flew home for the wedding and then Joan and I returned to Paarl where I was working. H.Jones & Co. generously offered my new bride a temporary job in their accounting offices, where she was able to make friends and earn a modest stipend until she returned to Harare in late April. We rented an apartment in downtown Paarl and though I worked long hours during the week, I was able to take Saturdays and Sundays off and we would explore the area all the way to Cape Town and down the Cape Peninsula.

Finally, I drove home in late May and took up my new position as Quality Controller at United Canners, a small canning plant in the little town of Rusape (now Lesapi) - about 80 miles southeast of Harare on the road to Umtali (now Mutare). We lived apart until the end of that year. I drove home to our apartment each weekend while Joan had resumed her position as an entomologist with the Dept. of Research and Specialist Services in the Ministry of Agriculture. It wasn't an ideal beginning to married life, but our plans all along were to settle in the Harare area, when my jobs would permit it.

It was during the June to December, 1969 time-frame that we looked around for a bit of land to purchase. We found what we were looking for in the northern suburb of Vainona. Those familiar with the area will better picture this suburb as the one directly west of Borrowdale.

Planting our first tree in 1969.

The lot was, as I mentioned, 1-1/3rd acres. It cost us just over (Rhod)$1,000. I am not sure how that equated with the U.S. dollar at the time but it was probably about par. We put down $200 of our savings and paid $150 per month until we owned it free and clear about eight months later. My monthly salary in those days was about $550 per month - in case readers might assume that we were oozing wealth. The land had no trees on it; it was triangular in shape with a narrow front boundary (about 80 ft) and a wide back fence line. It sloped very gently toward the front boundary which was to the north. We had a pretty clear idea from the first day about where our house would eventually be located and we even sketched out plans of where the trees and shrubs would be planted. The property was on old farm land and the soil was a deep, rich, red loam. We were to learn later that plants would grow like crazy.

During the whole year of 1970 we moved away and lived in Rusape. I had rented a very nice, garden apartment (or "flat" as it was called) and we enjoyed out time in the small, but friendly town. The center of my life was the canning factory. We came to know many of the rural farming community from whom we would purchase fruits and vegetables through the various growing seasons. Rusape was the gateway to the northeastern highlands of Rhodesia where there was an abundance of deciduous fruits grown, including pears, peaches, apples, apricots and so on. Through the late spring and winter months we would process peas, beans, tomatoes and many other varieties of vegetable products, soups and juices. But I digress.

Joan was expecting our first son later that year and by January 1971, I had resigned from The Rhodesian Food Corporation and taken a position with The Metal Box Company of Central Africa, a very large British-based manufacturer of food cans and other metal packaging. We returned to live in Harare and began to turn our attention to building the house we had thought about and planned for for two years.

June,1971 - the foundation is in and our brick house is under construction.

Our son Alan arrived right on schedule in April and we hired a reputable home builder to begin work on our 3BR, 2 BA house with Living and dining area and kitchen. We decided to wait before building a garage. As was customary we built "servant's quarters" on the property as well, wiring it for electricity, hot water, indoor toilet and other basic essentials.


Almost to roof level in July.

The months of May through September in Zimbabwe are perfect for home construction projects. It is winter and it never rains. Cold nights and dry, sunny, days kept the project right on schedule and the final coat of paint had been applied in August.


Near completion. Note the solar panels on the roof.

The weather in this part of Central Africa was, in fact, ideally suited for solar heating, and we had a solar water heater panel installed on the roof above the bedroom section of the house. This saved us a great deal on monthly electricity bills for the next eight years!

To pay for our house we applied for a 20 year loan from the Central Africa Building Society. The house cost us about $10,000 in 1971. Several years later we would add a double garage, doubled the size of the servants house, and added on a larger bedroom at the end of the house. We also added a small (25ft) swimming pool. We used the pool for seven months of the year. The additions cost about $7,000 in 1976.

The house in 1973 with lawn established - no garage.

1975 - the bougainvillea grew prolifically

Our house at 4 Wye Turn, from the street, looking south. The new bedroom on the far left was added in early 1976.

We built a pool in 1976 and this photo was taken from the roof of our house with our three kids enjoying a December swim.

Owning a home is the dream of most young couples. We were able to realize our dream and have a beautiful home that we designed and built and added to over the years while we lived in Rhodesia.

In 1980, after the new government of Robert Mugabe came to power, we made the decision to leave Zimbabwe and find a new life in the United States. American born, I had retained my US citizenship and that option to immigrate was open to us. We couldn't see a clear, secure future for our children. They were 9, 7 and 6 years old at the time. To see them through college ten years down-the-road in that changing environment was, as we decided, too much of a risk to take.

In June, 1980 we left Africa and moved to Littleton, Colorado. Strict foreign exchange restrictions allowed us to take only US$1,500 in cash each (for the two adults). We rented a house and I took a position with a company in Littleton. The kids started school and now 32 years later we can look back with few regrets.

Rhodesia - the consequence of political correctness

2012-01-19T17:19:00.000-07:00

I moved to Rhodesia in 1967 and, for 13 years, lived, worked, married and started a family there. It is difficult for me to write about the beauty of that country and its people due to the great injustice that was committed, in 1980, when the government was handed over to Robert Mugabe’s thugs by people who knew the risks but were willing to sacrifice the population for political expediency.

Last November a letter was published in the American Spectator which is truthful and factual – and worth repeating here. Thank you H.W. Crocker III. I am hoping that many will read this and get an idea why I find the situation in present-day Zimbabwe so tragic. For most readers, Rhodesia is just a footnote in history. For me it was a very personal and powerful influence in my life and the lives of my children.

The American Spectator on Rhodesia - finally the truth written by an American without all the PC garbage.

Ian Smith lived to see all his worst predictions come true.

On 11 November 1965, Ian Smith, prime minister of the British colony of Rhodesia, signed his country's unilateral declaration of independence, giving birth to a new nation that would, rather heroically, seek to maintain its way of life for the next fifteen years. That way of life was not -- as critics will be quick to allege -- based on racism, but on freedom, the freedom that was vouchsafed Rhodesia by the British Empire. It was the freedom that was lost by Rhodesia's transformation into Robert Mugabe's Zimbabwe. It's a transformation from which even we, as American, have something to learn.

The Rhodesians, in fact, based their declaration of independence on our own, though they charmingly reaffirmed their allegiance to the queen. Thinking themselves "more British than the British," they announced their independence on Remembrance Day, marking the end of World War I (what we mark as Veterans' Day), to remind Britain that when she fought at great cost to defend freedom, the rule of law, and the rights of small nations, Rhodesia had been at her side. In the Second World War, indeed, Ian Smith himself had flown Hawker Hurricanes and Spitfires for the RAF. A flight accident had smashed up his face (which required extensive plastic surgery) and left him with numerous serious injuries that took months to heal. He returned to duty, was shot down over Italy, and eventually made his escape back to Allied lines.

More than that, though, the Rhodesians had done what is the measure of a man -- they had gone into the wilderness and been able to re-create their civilization. While they had a reputation as outdoorsy, beer-swilling hearties, the great Rhodesian writer (and liberal) Peter Godwin and Ian Hancock estimated in their classic study of Rhodesia, 'Rhodesians Never Die,' "that probably no other transplanted English-speakers had done more -- with similar resources -- to reproduce and practice the parent culture."

It is a question worth asking ourselves: how many of us could hack our way into the jungle and re-create the United States? The more culturally pessimistic, or multiculturally inclined, might even wonder whether that would be a good thing anyway.

The Rhodesians had no doubts -- or few. They were so confident in their civilization that they were willing to endure international ostracism. They were so certain they were on the right side of history, and certain of their martial valor, that they volunteered to send troops to Vietnam (an offer that the embarrassed Lyndon Johnson administration declined to accept). They were so certain that they stood athwart tyranny, that they sacrificed their sons and fortified their farms in an African bush war that thrilled the armchair adventurers among the readers of Soldier of Fortune magazine, which sold "Be A Man Among Men, Rhodesian Army" t-shirts, based on a Rhodesian recruiting poster.

Smith believed that one-man, one-vote in Africa meant free elections once.

He was loath to submit his country to the chaos, socialism, violence, and dictatorship that he was certain would follow elections based on a universal franchise (which, as he pointed out, had difficulties that Western critics were not likely to consider: for instance, how to accurately register voters when most rural-born black Africans had no birth certificates). Smith was careful to gain the support of the country's tribal chiefs, he stated that his goal was evolution not revolution on the way to expanding the franchise (which was tied to income and property qualifications), and he affirmed that he would not risk Rhodesia's multi-party elections, free press, independent judiciary, and free economy with a mass electorate that might be inclined to do away with them.

In the end, of course, the British brokered a deal. Lord Carrington and almost all the other delegates to the so-called Lancaster House Agreement of 1979 were convinced that Robert Mugabe, regarded as the most radical of the Communist-backed insurgents, would be defeated in the elections arranged for 1980. Ian Smith thought otherwise. He was certain Mugabe would win because he belonged to the Shona tribe, which represented eighty percent of Rhodesia's population, and because Mugabe would be the most effective at voter intimidation. Smith was proved right, as he usually was -- though he got no credit for it.

Smith lived to see all his worst predictions come true; had he been able to read his obituaries he would have seen that liberal opinion blamed him for it. Smith's solace in his declining years was the popularity he had among black Zimbabweans who saw him as a symbol of unbreakable resistance to Mugabe. If you want to see the Rhodesia Smith defended, you can watch a video or two on YouTube and see black soldiers (most of the Rhodesian army was black) marching on parade past mostly white civilians, including an official dressed like an 18th-century town crier; you can see the sons of productive farmers and businessmen, who made Rhodesia an economic success, shouldering rifles to defend their homes and their liberties.

And if you want to see the tribute that vice pays to virtue -- or that Zimbabwe pays to Rhodesia and the British Empire -- just note how Zimbabwe's judges still wear white wigs, how Mugabe's henchmen make a show of owning farms (taken from white farmers who once produced plenty, and whose fields now lie barren while Zimbabweans starve), and how Mugabe still goes through the formality of having elections (as long as his goons ensure that he wins). Zimbabweans think of British institutions as having legitimacy, even if they are deployed as part of Robert Mugabe's charades.

So what can America learn from gallant Rhodesia? For one thing, we can learn to judge nations by the values they uphold, not the electoral processes they observe. We can see why Western "colonialism" was oftentimes better than the alternative. And most of all, perhaps, we might learn not to take our own liberties for granted. In every generation, they are only a demagogue away from being taken from us.

Letter to the Editor from H.W. Crocker III, a best selling author. His most recent book is The Politically Incorrect Guide to the British Empire.

My wife, Joan, with our two young sons at Victoria Falls - August 1975


In 1971 we built a small house, where we would live for ten years.

Search for the African Chicken

2011-12-17T09:39:00.000-07:00

In 2001 a.d. the Great Chicken Quest began. It would never be compared with the legendary quests of human history; the search for the Ark of the Covenant or for the meaning of life; nor would it hold up against the remarkable achievements of those explorers searching for new worlds or circumventing the globe in those ridiculously tiny wooden craft with canvas sails. In a personal way however, it was significant to me.

Why, you may wonder, would someone search for a chicken? It wasn’t just any chicken of course, so perhaps a more complete explanation will help readers understand. The protagonist of my story was a student, you see, attending a school of higher learning whose educational standards were rigorous. His chosen course of study was the biological sciences, with majors in Zoology and Entomology.

The final-year Zoology curriculum included several practical laboratory assignments. One of those assignments required students to submit, for grading by the end of term, a complete, mounted skeleton of a vertebrate.

By laying out this assignment the academic staff of the Department of Zoology was realizing two important objectives. On the one hand students would learn the basic skills of disassembling an animal and putting it back together again. The second objective was to build up the collection of animal skeletons necessary to help teach vertebrate anatomy to future students.

It was from the department’s existing collection that our student sought inspiration. What was needed? Most specimens in the collection were mammals; understandably, as mammals are numerous and tend to have strong bones that could be cleaned and assembled without too much difficulty. Specimens of fish, amphibians, reptiles and birds were scarce. All might pose difficulties, he thought. Fish and amphibian bones were tiny and delicate. Reptiles would not be easy to catch and the thought of disassembling a snake and putting it together again was regulated to the “not” category pretty quickly.

So it was that our intrepid student went home for a ten-day holiday break and sat at the dinner table with his family. A freshly roasted turkey was set before him to carve. “You’re the zoologist son; you should know how to carve a turkey.” And so he did. The inspiration came to him almost instantly. Why not a turkey or a chicken?

The next day he drove to a rural poultry farm and asked for a whole chicken, complete with feathers, head, feet and entrails. In fact, he asked for two chickens, as close in size as possible. While thinking about the assignment he realized he may need spare parts. What would happen if he overcooked the first chicken or lost one of the tiny rib bones? Yes, spare parts were definitely required. While the attendant withdrew two whole chickens from a freezer, our student paid his $1 each (this was 1964 after all!) and went home with his bird specimens in a cooler.

The next few days were busy. His father’s barbeque grill was requisitioned and two large buckets of water were brought to a boil over the fire. The chickens were plucked, and one was put into each bucket. After many hours, during which neighborhood dogs seemed to bark more frequently and become more restless than usual, most of the skin, internal organs and musculature had softened and been removed from the murky brews. Clean water was added, along with a small amount of caustic soda which would sterilize and bleach the bones.

Without providing the clinical details, the eventual results were two piles of bones; some almost too small to find. All were removed from the soup and laid out in the sun to dry. Over the next week, the painstaking task of getting all the pieces in order and drilling tiny holes in the bones, so they could be threaded with fine wire, absorbed every minute of his time. The bones of birds are hollow. This makes them delicate but also presents a way to thread the wire through each one. Some pieces, like the tiny ribs and bones of the feet had disintegrated or broken, and the spare-part chicken proved its worth.

Finally the entire bird skeleton was mounted on the top of a wooden dowel standing vertically on a stained wooden base. Afresh egg was removed from the family refrigerator and the contents were blown out of a small hole at one end. The inside of the shell was cleaned with caustic soda.. The egg was placed under the chicken, and a neatly printed label giving the species (Gallinas gallina), date (1963), and the creator’s name was applied with suitable adhesive. The chicken project was complete. In due course the student’s specimen was well received and placed into the Department of Zoology and Entomology collection at Rhodes University.

A word of caution; anyone considering putting together a chicken skeleton should understand it is not as easy as one would think. Do not try this at home.

Fast forward 37 years. I was returning to Rhodes University in Grahamstown, South Africa for the first time since leaving in 1967. My wife and I were staying with old friends while on tour of South Africa for a few weeks. A few former classmates from the 1960s joined us for dinner. In the 1980s the old Department of Zoology and Entomology where I had studied in the 1960s, had been moved into a completely new building and had been expanded to include the Institute of Freshwater Studies, the Department of Microbiology, and other research departments.

During a wine-induced lull in the conversation at dinner I dared asked the question, “Does anyone know if my chicken is still being used, or if it still exists?” One lady said she thought she had seen it, but added that much of the old Department’s collection had deteriorated or been damaged in the relocation 20 years earlier. I vowed to begin a search, which quickly was referred to as the “Chicken Quest,” and decided I would not give up until the fate of the chicken skeleton was learned. Was it still there, helping to educate the new generation of young biologists, or was it to be just a fond memory?

The following morning we walked across the campus of Rhodes University and entered the impressive, modern, three-story Biological Sciences Building. Friends from the night before met us and we began to search the ceiling high glass cabinets in the museum. After a few minutes it was obvious there no chickens in any of the displays. Eventually we were shown to a large empty conference room with a long board-room style table. At the far end of the room was a wall to wall array of wooden shelves and closed cupboards. We methodically opened each of the cabinet doors. It was here, we were told, that the most frequently used specimens were kept for easy access.

Running out of hope, I twisted the latch on a middle door and opened it. Stepping back I must have made a strange sound because everyone turned toward me when I leaned forward and carefully withdrew my chicken from its dark sanctuary. At last! It was there, still in use.

For a 37-year-old chick she was in pretty good shape.

Elephant Charges

2011-11-17T15:29:00.000-07:00

I remember a very old joke from the 1960s rash of silly “elephant” jokes. Question: What do you do when an elephant charges you? Answer: Put it on your American Express card. Or “what did Tarzan say to Jane when he saw the elephants coming?” “Here come the elephants.”

I have been asked many times whether I have ever been charged by an elephant. The answer is yes, three times. All three episodes took place in the Gona-re-Zhou Game Reserve in southeastern Zimbabwe during the seven months I spent there in 1968.

The first time wasn’t especially exciting. I was in my Land Rover, driving on a two-rut road across a very flat and open area when I come up with three bull elephants off to my right. They weren’t too close but were walking parallel to the road about 100 yards away. Suddenly, and without any provocation one of the bulls turned and began to run toward me. I waited until he was about 50 yards away and was ready to accelerate away, when he raised his trunk and skidded to a stop, kicking up a cloud of dust. It was a “mock charge.” The bull trumpeted a few times, flapped his ears, kicked up some more dust, then lost interest, and turned to follow his two buddies. I was to learn later that a real serious charge could be recognized by an ears back, head down, full speed sprint towards the “threat,” which, in this instance, was me. This fellow was just showing off.

The second charge was the scariest. As I have written before, the project I was working on involved rising very early and leaving camp by daylight. We would carry out our 8 mile traverses and generally be done by the time it got really hot and return to camp by noon. After a break for lunch, usually around 2:00 p.m., I would head out with my camp assistant Malvern Shumba to an area of the Mozambique countryside that we had not yet explored. I was using an old set of aerial photographs and some very outdated Mozambique maps to try and pinpoint target areas where the tsetse fly population would tend to be high. I was particularly looking for waterholes where elephant would always congregate. Because of the less than ideal conditions when the aerial photos had been taken, much of this area had been under cloud; so many waterholes had been obscured. During the many months I spent in this region of the country I was also compiling a record of the elephant I was seeing, mapping their locations, direction of movement and size and composition of their herds.

Malvern was a tall, lean young African man with a friendly demeanor and an urge to learn. He had a bright set of perfect, white, teeth when he smiled. 17 Years old when I met him, he had a 10^th grade education at a government school near the village where he had been born, close to the tiny rail siding and border post named Malvernia - for which he had been given his Christian name. He was particularly proud of his family name “shumba,” which means “lion.” Malvern’s English was excellent and because he had been born near the Mozambique border he was very helpful in translating the local dialect. Malvern impressed me with his fluency in both written and spoken English. When I would leave at the end of the month to return to Salisbury (now Harare) for five days, he would present me with a list of four or five books that he always “hoped” I could bring him. Many were school text books. Apart from being good company, he also was very skilled in finding his way back to the Land Rover when the day was cloudy and the sun wasn’t where it should have been in the sky. On several occasions I know that, without Malvern Shumba along with me, I would still be wandering aimlessly through the Mozambique countryside while the sky overhead would be filled with vultures.

On one overcast and very windy afternoon we came across fresh elephant tracks (spoor) crossing the road. We pulled off and began to follow them. It seemed to be a small herd of 10 – 15 elephant, moving slowly through a stand of mopani trees and shrubs. The thick, dark green, foliage made it hard to see more than a short distance of maybe 20 to 30 yards ahead of us. To make things worse, the brisk wind rustling the leaves made it difficult to detect any sounds of the big animals’ movements. As was my habit I carried a .375 magnum rifle strapped to my shoulder. Up until now I had never had to use it in self defense.

An elephant in thick Mopani shrub, Mozambique

After we had covered perhaps two miles Malvern saw the back of one of the elephants through the trees, so we were pretty close. The wind was in our faces and the ground was soft sand, so I rashly thought that the elephant had neither caught our scent nor heard us. Very unexpectedly we heard a crashing of branches and saw the top of an elephant coming at high speed directly towards us. I forgot to mention that Malvern Shumba could really run. I began to sprint after him as I caught a glimpse of the elephant’s head bobbing up and down as she charged. As I ran I swung the rifle off of my shoulder and began to hope for an open space where I might have one clean shot at our pursuer or at least fire a shot into the air to scare her off. Not too many seconds later (time really flies when you’re having fun) I slowed and turned to face her but she had stopped. I can only think that she must have had a calf, as mother elephants will rarely distance themselves from their calves. Her work done, she must have returned to her family group feeling somewhat proud of herself. Two very relieved but winded tsetse control employees returned to their vehicle with their tails between their legs.

The third incident was probably the most dangerous but also the most amusing, if you can look back on a scary situation and joke about it. The top man in the Tsetse Control division had come to our border camp to have a look at progress and see the area first hand. Desmond Lovemore was an exceptionally talented biologist and administrator and had earned his reputation through a dozen years of hard work and achievement. He had arrived in his Land Rover station wagon to spend a few days “in the field.” On his way through Chipinda Pools, the local Tsetse Control field headquarters, he had picked up the local man-in-charge, Jim Pasqual. Mr. Lovemore wanted to take a drive through an area to the south of our camp that we had not visited. On the map there were three rivers indicated, named respectively Number 1, Number 2 and Number 3 Rivers. After breakfast five of us got into the Land Rover. Along for the ride was one of the South Africans working with us, Alex Kritzinger, me, my immediate boss, Alec Robertson, Jim Pasqual, and Desmond Lovemore. Thinking back now, it is amazing that I have recalled each of the names but I suspect it is partly a result of the unusual incident that we all shared for several minutes 53 years ago.

Road along the Rhodesia-Mozambique border, May 1968

We followed the border fence (Rhodesia/Mozambique) southwest from our camp for about 20 miles until we came to Number 1 River. It was a river on the map but in reality it was a dry river course that would only hold water after heavy rains. I was sitting in the back seat on the right side behind the driver. Next to me was Alex Kritzinger and behind him in a little side seat right at the back was Jim Pasqual, the smallest of the group. He was also the most easily prone to hysteria. (My personal assessment.) We were driving slowly over smooth sandy ground following very faint vehicle tracks. To our left we could see a sparse tree line, where the river would undoubtedly flow if, or when, it might rain. The trees were dry and leafless, as this was during August, mid way through the winter dry season.

We were talking among ourselves and not paying too much attention to what seemed a pretty unexceptional and featureless landscape. Quite suddenly we saw an elephant cow coming out of the trees to our left and heading directly toward us. It was all the more unexpected because it was the first elephant we had seen that day and usually females do not leave their herd groups. She was a fairly young cow, probably eight to ten years old. She was running at full speed with her ears flattened against her sides and her head down. Mr. Lovemore accelerated and the cow tried to adjust to our movement as she came to a slight rise coming up out of the river bed. The change in direction and the slight rise caused her to stumble and she went down to her knees in a cloud of dust directly behind us. We all let out a collective sigh of relief, thinking that was the end of it. But to our amazement, she clambered to her feet and came after us again. Before we fully realized it she was pulling up right behind the vehicle continuing her hot pursuit. I looked back as she came to within a few feet of the back window of the station wagon, her head bobbing up and down at a furious rate. By now we must have reached at least 30 miles per hour and she seemed to be keeping up!

I turned quickly to look ahead and felt a sinking feeling when I saw a large dead tree had fallen across the track. From a distance the faint tracks in the sand seemed to go right under the tree. I turned back to see the cow’s progress begin to slow, as she lost ground. At the last minute, the tracks led us off to the right of the tree and we were able to cruise around the obstruction without losing speed. All this time, Jim Pasqual, from his little seat in the back of the vehicle was repeating, hysterically, “he’s coming, he’s coming, he’s coming.” As quickly as it had begun, the threat was gone. For a long time afterwards we tried to speculate why a lone female elephant would have charged a moving vehicle, for such a great distance, and with such incredible persistence. It may have been that she had been wounded by a poacher or that the sound of a car engine was associated with some traumatic event in her life.

All of the people that I was with that day were far more experienced in animal behavior, particularly elephant behavior, than I was at the time. I was fortunate that this wasn’t something that had happened to me on one of those frequent occasions when I was alone. It would have been a tough story for anyone to believe. This episode reinforced the adage that animals in the wild can be, at times, completely unpredictable and that elephants really can move at speeds up to 25 mph (40km/hour)!

Snakes in Africa

2011-10-28T16:58:00.001-06:00

There seems to be a sense among most people who have never been to Africa that it is heavily populated with snakes. In my 25 years on that continent I rarely saw a snake, although I learned a little about them as a Zoology student. I’ve never had too much interest in snakes but I have never been particularly afraid of them either. During 1997, in the Gona-re-Zhou Game Reserve in southeastern Rhodesia, not far from the Mozambique border, one of the Senior Tsetse Field Officers with whom I worked, came across an eight foot long python that had swallowed a small impala. It was a comical event in several respects.

First, the unfortunate man was an energetic, very highly respected, African man of very small stature, standing about 5ft. 4in. tall, with a slight frame to match his limited height. Despite his small size he was an excellent supervisor by virtue of a strong will, terrific leadership qualities and a wonderful sense of humor (humour). He was leading a group of men in single file along a dirt path across a flat, sparsely vegetated, area of low mopani shrubs. It was July, in the dry season, when most of the leaves had fallen, so he would have easily seen the python had he not been talking and frequently turning to look back at his companions. In other words he wasn’t paying attention.

Second, most Africans have an innate and terrible fear of snakes of any kind, especially those that are bigger than they are. Encounters with even the smallest snake, chameleon or lizard snakes become the topic of conversation for weeks afterward. Steven happened to look down as he was about to step on the python and suddenly launched himself into space, clearing the animal by about four feet. The other men scattered and only regrouped when they realized that the snake was almost completely immobilized by the large meal it had consumed and which was slowly being digested in its stomach. Most of the serpent was about six inches thick except for the great two-foot long bulge in its mid-section that was about 12 inches in diameter.

An 8 ft. Python photographed in Tanzania in 2005.

Over the following weeks the story of Steven’s great leap over the Python was embellished and exaggerated out of all reasonable proportions, always accompanied by raucous laughter and banter. I saw the snake about half an hour after the incident while it still lay where it was discovered, rendered completely harmless by its excessive appetite.

One of the most venomous snakes in Africa is the Black Mamba. A mature specimen can grow up to 12 – 14 feet long and they slither through the bush at great speed. Fortunately they are shy and tend to avoid confrontation. A Black Mamba bite, before the development of antivenin, always resulted in death to a human in as little as 20 minutes. Its venom is both a potent neuro-toxin and cardio-toxin, making it doubly lethal. I have seen a fully grown male Eland, weighing over 1,500 lbs, killed by the bite of a Black Mamba which it must of encountered by accident.

Black Mamba - National Geographic photo

My only encounter with a Black Mamba brought us literally face-to-face. I was working on a Tsetse Control assignment in Mozambique and one hot afternoon I was alone in my Land Rover and driving along a relatively smooth track, through an area of open bush, probably at a speed of about 20 mph. It was in late September when the days were almost always hot and sunny and the air was dry, so I had removed the metal cab and window frames from my vehicle and lowered the front windshield to benefit from the breeze. I had also removed the metal doors on both sides of the cab.

As I glided through the bush (or “veld”) enjoying the cool breeze on my face, suddenly and very unexpectedly I looked to my right and saw a large Black Mamba approaching rapidly, with his head just about level with mine. Before I had time to react I passed in front of him, and at that moment he reacted by rearing back to avoid me and spreading his cobra-like neck flaps. I reacted by hitting the accelerator and gripping the steering wheel. Its head was about three feet from my face for an instant, and it was one of those moments in my life when I felt completely and utterly helpless. We passed one another so quickly that, had he had the time or intention of striking, he almost certainly would have missed me, so I can’t honestly say that I narrowly avoided death in the wilds of Africa on this occasion.

In that one second I saw him up close and then he was gone, lost in the dust cloud my vehicle was creating behind me. I stopped some distance down the trail and looked for a while but he was long gone. There is a common seed pod of an African acacia tree that is 12 – 18 inches long, flat and dark in colour. (I can’t recall the exact species.) As it dries in the sun, it curls up, and on a windy day it rolls along the ground with a rapid spiral movement. For a long time after my close-up meeting with Mr. Mamba, one of those seed pods would blow across the ground in front of me and, catching that movement out of the corner of my eye, I would cringe – imagining it was a snake.

Photo credits - The photo of a Black Mamba was downloaded from the National Geographic website and was taken by George Grall. I took the Python photo while in Katavi National Park in Tanzania in September 2005.

For information about the Black mamba go to: http://animals.nationalgeographic.com/animals/reptiles/black-mamba/

Animal Encounters - The Eland

2011-10-08T14:35:00.000-06:00

The Kudu -smaller than an elk.

I begin my narrative by making a few comparisons of size. The Wapiti or Elk, commonly hunted or seen by tourists in North American protective areas is the second largest deer species – the Moose being the largest. The males of both species display prominent antlers that are shed each year. An average bull elk can weigh 700lbs (320kg) or more while the bull moose can weigh over 1,500lbs (730kg). Females weigh considerably less than males with elk cows weighing around 500lbs and moose cows about 800lbs.

The Wapiti or Elk

The Moose, the largest of the deer species.

There are many species of antelope in Africa and most are characterized by both males and females having distinctive “horns.” Horns, unlike antlers, are permanent bone growths and are not shed in winter as are antlers. In size, the elk is fairly close to the African Kudu. A kudu bull with his great set of spiral horns can weigh over 600lbs (270kg). The biggest of them all is the African Eland, which is even heavier than the moose. An eland bull will often weigh in over 2,000lbs while the female, or cow, will average over 1,000lbs – heavier than the longer-legged moose female. The Eland’s horns are not particularly impressive, growing to be up to 2ft long in the male, but their large bodies and regal demeanor make them stand out.

The Eland - males like this one may weigh over 2,000lbs

Visitors to Africa don’t often see a lot of Eland. They are typically not seen in herds as large as those of impala and wildebeest, and they are more wary than many of their antelope cousins. In my travels in Africa I have not seen eland very often and on those several occasions they have been at a distance and in small numbers.

In October 1966 I was on an assignment to the north of Hwange Game Reserve in Zimbabwe. I was driving a Land Rover along on a rough track in an area known as the Matetsi Game Corridor. The vegetation was thick and the terrain was very hilly with many rock outcrops. I was following a game fence that led in a north-south direction. It was a standard seven foot high game fence made up of sturdy mopani posts, each 10-12 inches thick, at 15 meter intervals, and six strands of wire, stretched taut between them. Although the fence ran straight through the hilly country, the road would parallel the fence for a short distance before curving away to go around a hill or rocky feature, then returning to follow the fence line.

As I drove slowly along the west side of the fence I was stopping periodically to verify compass bearings and mark the fence alignment on a 1:50000 scale map before continuing my slow progress. Quite unexpectedly when the road took me back to the fence at one point there was an eland calf running ahead of me on the track. He was on my side of the fence and trying to get through it by running into the wire. The reason became obvious when his mother, a huge eland cow suddenly appeared on the other side of the fence. Somehow the calf had managed to get through the strands of the fence and was now separated from its mother.

Now, as I drove slowly behind them, probably at about 10-15 mph, they continued to run away from me and the mother was testing the fence by pressing up against it, clearly trying to reach her calf. We came onto a flat area where the road was visible for quite a distance ahead. Suddenly the mother turned away from the fence, took a few long strides to gain speed and turned sharply to her left, lifted her massive body, and without breaking stride rose up and jumped over the fence as though it wasn’t even there. As her hindquarters crossed the top strand of wire, she touched it lightly with one of her hooves as though measuring herself, before landing easily on the far side and within seconds, she and her calf were galloping away into the thick acacia shrub.

It happened so quickly, but seeing that huge antelope, probably weighing around 1,000lbs, clear that 7ft. fence so effortlessly remains in my memory as one of the most remarkable things I have ever witnessed. I should mention that when seen so close up, an eland seems huge; a grown female stands over 5ft tall (1.54M) at the shoulder. My camera lay forgotten on the passenger seat to my left. My journey that day took me on to the Kazungula Road and the village at Victoria Falls. After a meal and a cold beer I walked down the hill and visited the Victoria Falls for the first of many times.

Animal Encounters - The Buffalo

2011-09-05T13:32:00.003-06:00

As I mentioned in an earlier blog I have never been a trophy hunter. While spending time in the bush however I would occasionally shoot something for the “pot.” Often while in a camp with a lot of laborers the demand for meat was high. Returning to camp after a five day “R&R” at the end of the month my provisions would include a few cans of corned beef (bully beef in the local jargon), but it was pointless to try and take fresh meat. We rarely had access to refrigeration.

In early October of 1967 I was sent to the Matetsi Safari Area, west of the town of Wankie (now Hwange) and directly north of the Hwange Game Reserve. I had to test a new portable shortwave radio antenna and update several maps showing the locations and conditions of game fences and access roads in the area. The Matetsi Safari Area was then, and still is today, heavily populated with big and small game including elephant, Cape buffalo and black rhino.

After a long overland drive from Salisbury (now Harare) I called in to meet up with the regional Veterinary Officer, in Wankie, Chris Steyn. He had assembled his regular team of workers who were going into the Matetsi area to repair game fences and roads. They would be showing me the way. The area is very remote and for the most part covered with dense vegetation, acacia and Mopani trees and shrubs. Rivers and streams here are dry in the winter months (May through August) up until the rains would begin in late October. The standard 7 ft. high game fences (with 8 strands of high tension wire and 10 – 12 inch thick Mopani posts spaced at 10 meter intervals) had been erected across this region in past decades to restrict the large scale migration of elephant and buffalo into rural areas of human occupation. Small animals, such as impala and warthog could pass through the fences easily. Some of the larger antelope species such as kudu and sable might be momentarily impeded but would pass through the fence or jump over the 7 ft. high top wire.

Chris Steyn, as a senior Veterinary Field Officer, had the authority to shoot buffalo and elephant within 200 meters of the game fences. This policy was intended to drive them away and be a deterrent for the animals to reduce damage to fences; something that elephant in particular could do, and often did. Buffalo, would at times get their heavy horns caught in the wire and with a sharp twisting action, would snap it. Fence maintenance and repair was an ongoing, labor intensive and expensive job. Before setting out on the drive through the hills and over the narrow bush roads of Matetsi, Chris told me that if I should see a buffalo within sight of a game fence, I should take the opportunity to shoot it. His laborers would welcome a supply of fresh meat. As I would come to realize later, he had also told his foreman to try and locate some buffalo for me to shoot.

We had been on site in what is called the Matetsi Game Corridor for a couple of days. One morning I was following the tractor and trailer with four or five men with me in my Land Rover. They were clearing an old road and fence line when we heard the sound of a buffalo herd running in the distance. The foreman sent a man in that direction to see if he could see any of the herd. A while later the man came running back to us and signaled to me to follow him and bring my rifle. I had a .375 magnum with me, fitted with a telescopic sight. I didn’t especially like a telescope for these conditions, preferring an open sight instead. The sharp recoil of the .375 would jar the scope out of alignment at times. There was no time to even consider changing at that moment however.

Two men walked ahead of me for about a quarter of a mile and pointed in the direction of an open grassy “vlei.” An old, and very large, Cape buffalo bull was grazing toward us with his head down. I began to quietly make my way toward the buffalo through waist high Mopani shrub which offered the only cover. My two companions had fallen back and, I assumed, were taking their seats for whatever was to happen in the next few minutes. Eventually I came to within about 50 yards of the bull, surprised that he had not heard, seen, nor smelled me and was apparently unaware of my presence. I sat down quietly and took careful aim, with the idea of taking just one, fatal shot to the spine in his exposed neck. What I didn’t know until later, was that my telescope had been jarred out of alignment and was shooting about 4 inches to the right at 100 yards.

The old bull - loaded on the trailer

Within an instant of pulling the trigger, I knew the shot would not be fatal because the huge animal bucked like a rodeo bull and instantly began to run directly towards me (or should I say – us). I snapped another round into the breach and with a clear shot at his heart, because his head was now raised as he ran, I fired again. My second shot only had the effect of turning him sharply to his left and he lumbered across my field of sight about 20 yards away. Operating on instinct, I fired into his lower chest just behind his shoulder, hoping to hit his heart, and instantly I saw bright red blood spew from his nostrils. I had pierced his lungs. He continued to run at a gallop without slowing, quickly disappearing into the mopani shrub. I remember standing there watching and having the terrible thought that “oh shit - now, I have a wounded buffalo on my hands.”

In the middle of this most intense moment of my life I turned around to see where my two guides were and saw them both about ten feet up, clinging to a tall, very thin mopani tree, and looking at me with wide eyed expressions from about 50 feet away. I laughed out loud at the comedic sight. To their credit, they too laughed – probably with relief.

Now we still had to go after the buffalo which most hunters will tell you is the most dangerous animal to hunt when wounded. I took a few moments to reload my rifle and we picked up the spoor. The bright red blood on the ground confirmed his wounds were mortal. We stopped every few minutes until we heard a thumping sound. Then we saw his dark shape through the shrub bush. One of his legs was moving up and down and a hoof was hitting the ground in what was a final reflexive movement. It was with relief that I walked up and put a final round into the back of his neck.

There were a lot of happy men soon surrounding the carcass which had to be cut into sections to load onto the trailer for the return to camp. Before cutting the meat into strips for salting and drying, it was weighed, piece by piece, at over 1,500 lbs. (In his prime this old boy probably weighed 1,700 pounds or so.) We were able to find two of the bullets I had fired. During the post mortem I found that my first shot had missed the spine, but had penetrated the neck, touched the heart and lodged inside the pelvic bones. I still have this slug in a small box. The second shot had also touched the heart and lodged in the pelvic bones. The third shot which had pierced the lungs as he ran across my field of vision had passed through his body. This was an old animal, and his worn teeth told us why he was somewhat thinner than he should have been. He may have lost some hearing as well. These old bulls will eventually wander farther away from their herds and fall prey to predators in the area.

The horns were big (see photo above) and I kept them in a garage or storage room for years, until eventually selling them to a merchant for a few dollars before leaving Zimbabwe 12 years later. I heard that the ground-up powder from these horns is used in traditional African medicinal remedies.

Over the 44 years since my buffalo encounter I have rarely spoken of it. It was one of only a few occasions in my life when I found myself in a situation where I would rely on instinct, with no chance to think about my actions. To a degree the incident reassured me of my capabilities and I gained confidence. Under pressure I did not panic but stood my ground. No one can predict how they will react in situations like this and I am glad I responded appropriately.

Buffalo meat, salted, cut into strips and drying.

Two bullets removed from the carcass.

Animal Encounters - First Elephant

2011-09-03T13:32:00.001-06:00

As a Field Entomologist in Tsetse Control in Rhodesia (1967-68), much of my time was spent in pretty remote areas of “the bush.” I would write to my parents, who were living in South Africa at the time and describe my employment as “working in a zoo,” only there were no cages. I had a camera with me, but took far too few photographs. I also always had a rifle with me. Occasionally I could provide a little fresh meat for our camp and only once did I almost have to use my .375 magnum to protect myself.

During the height of the rainy season, from December through March, movement in many back-country areas was limited by wet and often impassable roads. The weather from April through October was about as predictable as weather could be, sunny dry days, cool clear nights.

As anyone who has been “on safari” in Africa can testify, when around wildlife there is always an unexpected event or sighting around the next bend in the road. It may not occur for many, many, hours, or even days, but it always leaves an indelible memory. Just as you begin to wonder where the game is, it pops up to excite and amaze you. This was certainly my experience as a young, enthusiastic lover of all wild places and animals, suddenly finding myself in a professional situation that few have an opportunity to experience in their lives. Growing up through my teen years, I was able to join my dad on occasional hunts for small game. These were always enjoyable and taught me solid lessons, but I have never been, nor would I ever describe myself as a “hunter.” The main lessons I learned were how to shoot well and how to treat a firearm with great respect.

Being in Tsetse Control did not give anyone a license or permission to hunt. We were able to shoot only in clearly designated areas and under strict guidelines. There was never an attempt to take on the role of the professional game rangers and wardens of the Department of National Parks and Wildlife Management.

One of the most memorable days of my life was the first time I saw elephant in the wild. I had seen them many times in game reserves, from behind a fence or from the safety of a car but never while on foot. I had spent several weeks on a spraying operation in a remote area on the southern edge of the Zambezi Escarpment due south of Lake Kariba. These operations were conducted for 25 consecutive days, beginning on the first day of each month. Everyone would go for “R & R” from the 25^th to the 31^st to make up for the weekends that we had worked. Field Officers would return to Salisbury (now Harare) for a well deserved break, and to re-provision for the following month. The laborers; most recruited from local villages, would return home to their families and their chores.

Elephant footprints (spoor) in sand

On this occasion, in August 1967, my boss Bill Casey had arranged to take me to a Tsetse Research station called Reckomechi. I rendezvoused with Bill in the small town of Makuti and left my Land Rover at the local Government depot while we continued in his vehicle. From Makuti, the two-lane paved highway descends almost immediately into the Zambezi Valley in long sweeping curves through dense bush. The valley floor is flat and the most noticeable change in vegetation is the increased number of baobab trees; those huge grey hulks that seem as though they have been thrust into the earth upside down. As the highway flattens out to cross the valley floor north to the Zambezi River and the Zambian border post called Beit Bridge, we turned right onto a dusty road heading east toward Mana Pools, the renowned Game Reserve.

The dirt road is straight, except for a few times when its geometrically perfect bearing was impeded by an old baobab tree; then it would bend just enough to skirt the obstruction. After about 30 miles on this hot, dusty road we passed the turn to Mana Pools and soon arrived at Reckomtjie, a loose assemblage of metal prefab buildings which served as labs, offices and accommodations. We met the Tsetse Officer in charge and his wife and as the late afternoon shadows began to lengthen, Bill Casey suggested we take a walk to the nearby Reckomtjie River. So, we made our way through the small vegetable garden at the back of the house and followed a narrow path descending into the river. The river, as is typical in this area, was lined on either side by huge, old hardwood trees, teak, ebony and ironwood. The wide sandy river bed appeared completely dry although from the holes that had been dug by elephant, there was obviously water not too far below the surface. We reach the bed of the river and crossed a narrow sandy area before climbing up onto a large earth mound, about 10-12 feet high, fortified by a number of large trees. It was literally an island in the dry river bed which was about 40 yards wide at this point.

Looking directly north, the sand ran straight into the shade of overhanging trees, as though disappearing into a tunnel. Behind us, to the south, the river bed ran up against a vertical red earthen cliff as it turned to the left and began its ascent into the distant hills. I could imagine how it might be during the rains, when thunderstorms would build over the higher country and the rushing torrents would spill into the valley along this dry sandy highway. Bill and I sat down on top of our “island” and enjoyed the peace and quiet for a few minutes. Before long we saw the grey, ambling hulks of a herd of elephant begin to appear out of the shadows to the north. They were walking purposefully, in single file, with an old matriarch in the lead. As they got closer, we could see there were perhaps twenty animals in the group, mostly females, with several calves and a few immature males. It reminded me of the tame elephants I had seen as a young boy at Ringling Brothers Circus, when the elephants would enter the big top and walk around the ring holding each other by the tail.

Now of course they smelled us and the column slowed briefly. Then they separated into two lines, with one row passing on our left and the other to our right. From our small hilltop, we could almost have reached out and touched them. As they passed, we were close enough for them to see us, and a few lifted their trunks to test the air. I realized that, in the excitement of the moment, I had been holding my breath. I also remember how quietly these huge, gentle animals were moving. As the last one passed, we turned to watch them continue up-river and soon disappear around the bend below the cliffs.

This herd had come out of the vast Mana Pools Game Reserve and, had probably not been poached or hunted. This explained their acceptance of the smell of humans and the fact that, despite the presence of young in their herd, we were not perceived as a threat. In the near future I would encounter elephant in other parts of the country and in different circumstances where the smell of humans would throw them into a panic. The following morning, I walked up-river from this spot and saw where the herd had excavated holes in the riverbed and exposed pools of water. During this time of the year, when rain would not come for many more months, elephants provide a source of water for many other wildlife species by digging into the dry river beds.

Water revealed by elephant in a dry river bed.

It’s 44 years later and I still have the sharpest memories of that late afternoon in the Reckometjie River. That was the moment when I began a love affair with elephants and started to develop an understanding of just how remarkably intelligent and gentle they are.

Next - encounter with a Cape Buffalo, and then a black mamba and an eland.

Tsetse - the silent destroyer

2011-08-08T14:57:00.001-06:00

If you haven't read my previous post (July 17) then stop and go back.

When I became a "tsetse fly controller," or Glossinologist, in 1967 I had only a rudimentary understanding of the insect and little appreciation of the total control this fly had on huge areas of the African continent. In Rhodesia, as in so many developing countries, there was an unrelenting need for more land where the rapidly growing rural population could establish their rudimentary houses, grow crops and raise livestock.

Wherever the tsetse fly occurred, rearing cattle, both as a source of meat and milk and as draft animals, was not possible without expensive prophylactic drugs administered every 30 days. Almost 25% of otherwise fertile land in the country could only be farmed with hand tools, making it subsistence living or worse. The government had, over the years after WWII, put ever-increasing financial and manpower resources into finding ways of pushing the tsetse fly away from suitable areas planned for settlement. Most of these efforts were restricted to the dry months of the year, generally from May through September; or, if the rains came late, the month of October could be included in that calendar. The rains, from October through April, and sometimes May, were a huge impediment to field operations against the tsetse fly in Rhodesia.

The unique biology and behavior of the tsetse fly made it vulnerable to two primary control methods.

First: it is very susceptible to insecticide. It also tends to rest on the bark of trees along drainage areas which provide it with shade and sandy soil where it lays its already developing pupa. These areas are where water sources for wildlife can be found and where wildlife tends to find shelter in the heat of the day. The careful, targeted, application of insecticide to specific tree species could significantly reduce the populations of the fly. It was possible to pinpoint these drainage areas by using aerial photographs. The targeted applications of insecticide also mitigated to a large degree the dangers of the widespread use of toxic chemicals on many other species of birds, insects and mammals.

Application of insecticide in a remote area in north Rhodesia.

In the 1960s there was a great sensitivity to the dangers of indiscriminate insecticide applications. DDT had been banned in many parts of the world and it was in short supply locally. We had turned to using Dieldrin which was more toxic than DDT but which could be applied in lower concentrations to achieve a similar result in reducing fly populations.

Second: its preferred food source is the blood of mammals occurring in the wild. In Rhodesia in the 1960's, the list of the top six preferred animals was made up of elephant, cape buffalo, warthog, bushpig, kudu and bushbuck. All of these species were carriers of the disease passed on by the fly (trypanosomiasis or "tryps") but were resistant to its effects. By establishing "controlled hunting areas," populations of these animal species could be selectively reduced or driven out by hunting. Once these populations were reduced sufficiently the fly could not sustain itself in the area and would die out. Depending on the success of controlled hunting in one area, resulting in the removal of the fly, the boundary of the controlled hunting areas could be moved each year, thus opening up new land for farming.

Another important consideration was that the tsetse fly could not fly long distances and would not, on its own, move across areas which were dry and did not have suitable shelter. So their movement was greatly aided by the presence of animals which moved long distances - especially elephant and buffalo. Tsetse fly were thought to be moved by resting on the skin of elephants as they traversed great distances to find water. To inhibit the movement of these animals 7 ft. high game fences were erected across great distances, at considerable expense.

The two control methods discussed here, when coordinated with one another, would result in the removal of the fly from widespread areas of the country. But how did we measure the success of these methods? Checkpoints (or "fly gates") were set up at strategic points along the areas under attack. The Tsetse Fly, attracted by dark colors and moving objects, would often rest in the wheel wells of cars. A gate attendant at a "check point" would walk around the vehicle with a small net in hand and attempt to capture any flies. These would be counted and recorded. Over time, his daily log would be handed in and the figures added to maps back at Tsetse Control Headquarters. These somewhat crude methods gave a good indication of the presence of the tsetse in those sensitive front line areas and helped to plan future campaigns.

A typical rural Tsetse Fly gate in 1960s Rhodesia.

Anyone who may have lived or traveled in Rhodesia (Zimbabwe) in the 1960s and 1970s will remember the Tsetse Control Check Point on the highway north leading to Zambia and Lake Kariba. Every southbound vehicle had to pass through a large hangar expressly constructed for the purpose of capturing flies and monitoring fly numbers. (Unlike the photo shown here, which is a typical small fly gate in a remote area.) When all the cars and trucks that could fit were inside, the large hangar doors at each end were closed, making the inside dark. A hand held aerosol insect repellent was spayed into the car or cab of the truck and into the wheel wells of the vehicles. Small windows were opened in the hangar wall to let in light through a trap. Attendants would wave their nets around the wheels to stir the flies up. Flies would either be caught in the nets or attracted to the light boxes in the hangar wall. This hangar provided valuable fly counts each month which gave excellent statistics to determine fly populations.

I could write at great length about the massive efforts to push the tsetse away from areas of settlement in Rhodesia. These efforts continue today in many countries of Africa. I personally would not trade my time in this effort for anything. One benefit was that I was always working in areas with very high wildlife populations. Over one seven-month period from April to October 1968 I lived on the southeast border of Rhodesia, working on a three-country control operation along the shared border with Mozambique. Teams from South Africa, Mozambique and Rhodesia worked together on this huge effort which consisted of opening up an expensive new road system in the Portuguese territory. This area of southeast Rhodesia would in later years become the Gona-re-Zhou National Park and may soon be extended across Mozambique into the Kruger National park of South Africa to create a massive "Trans-Frontier Park." The Gona-re-Zhou ("place of the elephants") is one of the most stunningly beautiful areas of Africa. When I was camping there I saw huge herds of cape buffalo and elephant. Two large perennial rivers, the Save and the Lundi Rivers flow through here which support rich game populations in the surrounding hills and plains.

On maps of this area today you can see a small dot along the border labeled "Border B" representing a gate in the fence line. While I was planning the new road system (using aerial photographs) I selected that point along the fence for construction of a gate between the two countries. Because it occurred at point "B" on an expansive A, B, C, D grid system, I named it Border B Camp. That name has stuck. Maybe I should have called it Joe's Gate, or something more descriptive.

If I could have an opportunity to re- visit one part of Africa before I cash in my chips, I would like it to be the Gona-re-Zhou National Park.

Next: Some animal encounters.

Tsetse Fly Wars - 1967 to present

2011-07-16T13:55:00.000-06:00

So, back in 1967, what was the big concern about the Tsetse Fly, and why were so many financial and logistical resources expended to try and control this little pesky critter? The reality then, and now, is that the Tsetse Fly is one of the roots of Africa’s poverty. No other region of the world suffers the same animal health problems as the tsetse fly imposes on Africa.

Sleeping Sickness and Nagana are diseases transmitted by the Tsetse Fly. According to the deputy director-general of the International Atomic Energy Agency (IAEA) " It is no accident that the concentration of much of the world's most acute poverty is in regions of sub-Saharan Africa infested with tsetse." Some experts say that the Trypanosomiasis pathogen helps create African "green deserts" -- 10 million square kilometers of otherwise lush and fertile land that is not in production because of the tsetse fly carrier. This includes land in 32 of the world's poorest countries.

The presence of the disease Nagana, which is deadly to most cattle, prevents rural villagers from using cattle or horses as draft animals which could improve their agricultural productivity by 25 to 45%. "Allowing more African farmers to own livestock would have a profound impact on hunger and poverty in the continent, but that cannot be achieved without the elimination of the tsetse fly." Native breeds of cattle (Zebu), which will be familiar to those who have traveled to East Africa on safari, are only somewhat resistant to Nagana.

Cross-bred cattle whose milk production is NINE times the native breeds, cannot survive in tsetse fly areas.Ironically, it is the presence of the tsetse fly (and the diseases that it carries) across great tracts of Africa that protected land from over-development during the last century of European settlement and expansion. This enabled both the colonial rulers and subsequently the governments of independent states to develop their wildlife resources by establishing National Parks and Wildlife Management areas. The Game Reserves of Kenya, Tanzania, South Africa, Zimbabwe and Botswana almost certainly would not have been set aside for the conservation of wildlife had they been of economic value for ranching and crop production.

Nearly 45,000 cases of sleeping sickness (or Trypanosoma as the pathogen is called) were reported in Africa in 1999. However, only three to four million of the over 60 million people at risk are being screened and the number of cases may be as high as 500,000, the World Health Organization (WHO) reports. In the absence of effective screening most people with sleeping sickness die before they can ever be diagnosed. Early diagnosis offers a relatively high chance of cure. Back in the 1960’s and before, the extent of the disease was worse.

The disease causes an acute infection that emerges after a few weeks and which can infect a person for months, or years, without symptoms, while parasites multiply in the bloodstream and lymphatic system. When they cross the blood-brain barrier and invade the central nervous system, there are neurological changes that are often irreversible, and which require a strict and complex regimen of treatment.

The trypanosome is carried in the blood of most African antelope species, as well as other vertebrates such as elephant, cape buffalo, warthogs and bush pigs; all of which are immune to its effects. Horses, cattle, dogs, and other domesticated animals will die when exposed to the bite of the tsetse fly if not maintained on a regular course of prophylactic drugs. The trypanosomes in many areas have become resistant to these drugs.

There is hope for the future. In 1996, the IAEA assisted in the development of a technique of sterilizing the male tsetse fly using radiation. Large numbers of sterilized males are released into the countryside. The female fly only mates once in her lifetime, and so the larvae that she lays once every week to ten days does not live. In a trial conducted on the isolated island of Zanzibar, off of the East African coast, the tsetse fly population was eradicated and farming productivity rose dramatically in the years following this trail. The use of this technique on the African mainland holds hope for similar results, but campaigns would require large financial and human resources, and close cooperation across borders and government jurisdictions to achieve long-term success.

When I became a Field Entomologist, or Glossinologist, in the “Tsetse and Trypanosomiasis Control Branch” of the Department of Veterinary Services for the Government of Rhodesia in 1967, that progressive country was achieving considerable success in clearing large areas of the tsetse fly. The extensive, and costly, operations had the vital purpose of opening up new land for settlement to meet a rapidly growing demand for productive farm land for a fast-growing native population. In many areas of the country land was very fertile, but cattle and other domestic livestock or draft animals could not survive.

In my next blog I will describe the basics of a Tsetse Control operation 44 years ago.

Red marks the extent of Tsetse Fly infestation - as of 1999.