FRAGRANT HYACINTHS ARE EASY TO PROPAGATE ONCE THEY FINISH FLOWERING. MOST OFTEN, THEY MULTIPLY WHILE THEY GROW AND ALL YOU NEED TO DO IS DIVIDE THE BULBS AND REPLANT OR STORE THEM. 

HOW TO PROPAGATE HYACINTH BULBS

METHOD 1 – DIVISION

• After Hyacinths have finished flowering, dig out the bulbs carefully while the foliage is still green. This is to ensure that we obtain bulb-lets before they die or rot off due to heat/moisture.
• Also, they cannot continue to grow in the same place in full sun once summers arrive.
• Some bigger healthier bulbs may have formed smaller child bulbs while others may have not. We will treat them differently accordingly.
• Wash off the soil and separate the clumps into smaller units.
• Pry open gently and do not pull hard. The roots will separate themselves.
• Now plant the main bulb (that was already multiplying) & the bulb-lets in well-draining soil. Ensure that the soil does not allow water to stand by adding sand.
• Also, mix in compost for healthier bulbs.

METHOD 2 – PROPAGATION BY CUTTING THE BULBS

• Now take the bulbs that were not multiplying & cut off their leaves.
• Remove the roots as well.
• The lower portion of the bulb is called the “Basal Plate“. This is where the roots grow from.
• Now, there are two ways to force multiplication.
• First is to cut off the basal plate using a knife and scoop out a bit of flesh.
• Second way is to simply make cuts in the basal plate vertically & horizontally. This is to kick start propagation.

STORING BULBS WHILE THEY PROPAGATE AND SPROUT NEW SMALL BULBS – MAKING BULBLETS

• Take a shallow container filled with moist coco-peat.
• Dust some fungicide (baking soda works well) on the cut portion of the bulbs.
• Place them upside down in the coco-peat.
• Place in a dark place.
• Spray occasionally to keep moist.
• You will notice small bulb-lets forming in a few weeks.
• Plant the bulb outside once this happens.
• Do ensure that bulbs are taken out of soil once their leaves die. They will not multiply after that but only rot.

HAPPY GARDENING 🙂

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There are 3 ways you can PROPAGATE TULIP BULBS.

STEP 1 – CUTTING

1. REMOVING BASAL PLATE : Remove the thick base disc of the bulb and mark a deep X with a knife.
2. CUTTING THROUGHT THE BULBS : Remove the dark peel and mark deep cuts vertically on the sides of the bulb
3. REMOVING TENDER PARTS: Cut out any tender parts making a flat surface for new bulblets

The part where cuts are made is where new bulblets will sprout.

STEP 2 – PREVENT ROT

1. APPLY FUNGICIDE: This is not optional. No fungicide means the bulbs will rot instead of propagating.

STEP 3 – STORAGE OF BULBS

1. Place the bulbs individually on newspapers.
2. Cover with peatmoss or damp cocopeat
3. Place in a box and store at a dark place
4. The box should have some ventilation (e.g. a shoebox with holes poked on sides)

STEP 4 – KEEP A CHECK

1. KEEP IT DAMP : The bulbs should not dry out completely while storing
2. REMOVE ROTTEN BULBS: If any bulb starts to rot, remove it immediately to save the other tulip bulbs that are propapagting

TIPS TO KEEP IN MIND WHILE PROPAGATING TULIP BULBS

• New bulblets take time to grow and flower. Plant them each season and store for next season till they are ready to bloom.
• Tulip bulbs rot easily while propagating. Don’t skip fungicide and keep propagating bulbs separate from each other.
• Do not let the bulbs dry out, they will not grow again.
• The propagating medium should be damp but not wet. More mositure means more chances of tulip bulbs rotting.

Learn HOW TO TURN A GERANIUM LEAF INTO A NEW PLANT.

1. TAKE A GERANIUM LEAF WITH THICK STEM
2. PLACE THE LEAF IN A JAR OF WATER
3. ONLY 2-3 CM OF LEAF GOES IN WATER
4. PLACE OUTDOORS IN LIGHT BUT NOT DIRECT SUN
5. CHANGE THE WATER EVERY 3 DAYS
6. GIVE IT ATLEAST 15 DAYS TO START ROOTING
7. TRANSPLANT WHEN THE ROOTS ARE THICK

TIPS FOR SUCCESFULLY GROWING GERANIUM PLANT FROM A SINGLE LEAF:

• Use multiple leaves, not all will sprout roots
• Do not place in direct shade
• Don’t transplant while roots are thin
• Keep the water clean
• Don’t place the entire stem in water, it can rot
• Do not crowd the leaf stems in water
• Keep the leaves clean

10 STEP quick and easy method of rooting coleus cuttings.

1. Take cuttings that are 4″-5″ in length. Make sure the cuttings are fresh.
2. Remove the bottom leaves.
3. Place the cuttings OVER soil surface horizontally not inside. This prevents rotting.
4. Place a small light-weight pebble over the cuttings at the tip so that it holds down in place.
5. Water lightly around the pebbles
6. Place at a well-lit spot.
7. Fresh leaves will start growing first, then you can check for roots.
8. In about 7-10 days, you will see roots emerging.
9. Let them grow a bit more.
10. Plant vertically in a pot and enjoy the coloured foliage.

What are the benefits of propagating coleus by SOIL layering?

• It is easy & gives quick results
• The soil type and drainage does not matter
• You can track the progress
• The chances of cuttings rotting are almost zero
• There is minimal root damage while transplanting

FOLLOW THESE 8 TIPS

1. NO EXCESS WATERING
2. FERTILIZE WITH EPSOM SALT
3. KEEP IT CLEAN
4. PLANT IN SANDY SOIL
5. DIVIDE EVERY YEAR
6. AVOID DIRECT SUNLIGHT
7. GIVE AMPLE SPACE
8. PLANT CROWN ABOVE SOIL LEVEL

GERBERA NEEDS BOTTOM WATERING

• Gerbera hates standing water or overwatering.
• They need to be kept slightly damp but never wet.
• The best time to water gerbera in any season is in the morning.
• Never let the crown stay wet, it will rot and kill the plant.
• Self-watering pots are great for growing gerbera daisies.

EPSOM SALT FERTILISER FOR GERBERA DAISY

• If you want lots of flowers on gerbera daisies, then fertilise with Epsom salt every 15 days.
• You can spray or add a tsp. to soil near the base of the plant.
• In rainy season, it is advisable to spray since the soil leeches quickly.

KEEP GEREBERA PLANTS CLEAN

• Keep the plants very clean and pull off brown leaves regularly.
• It increases air circulation at the base of the plant and prevents insects & fungus.

GERBERA DAISY PREFERS SANDY SOIL

• The soil needs to drain off water quickly.
• Add cocopeat in moderation in gerbera plants.
• A handful of sand and vermicompost added to normal garden soil forms the ideal potting soil for gerbera daisy flowers.

DIVIDE GERBERA PLANTS FOR MORE FLOWERS

• Do not let your gerbera plants get rootbound.
• If the plant has completely taken over the pot, take it all out gently and divide into new plants.
• This promotes healthy and fresh growth with more blooms.

GERBERA DAISY PLANTS GROWS IN INDIRECT LIGHT

• Gerbera is a bit sensitive towards direct harsh sunlight.
• Place it where it gets full light but not direct sun.
• Gerbera will not do well indoors or rarely bloom.

GEREBRA DAISY FLOWERS NEED SPACE

• Gerbera plants need ample space and air circulation to grow and bloom.
• The larger the pot, the more blooms you will get.
• Leave soil empty on the sides, gerbera does not like to grow with other filler plants.

PLANT GERBERA DAISY PLANTS CORRECTLY

• The crown of the plant must be slightly above soil level.
• If the base of gerbera plant is under soil, it will rot because that’s where the leaves and buds sprout.
• If the crown is too high. the roots will be exposed and gerbera plant will be damaged.

Always divide your GERBERA DAISY in spring for lush green plants with abundant flowers. This will also prevent diseases by allowing more circulation and space for roots to grow.

Follow these 7 easy steps for PROPAGATING GERBERA DAISY FLOWER PLANTS:

1. WATER BEFORE YOU BEGIN – Drench the soil thoroughly at least 15-30 mins before you begin to divide. This will soften the soil and roots for easy removal. Hydrated roots are also very important so that they don’t dry out while you are replanting them.
2. UPTURN ENTIRE POT – Try to turn the pot around and remove the entire plant instead of pulling it out. This minimises damage to roots. If you cannot turn around a heavy pot, then loosen soil from all sides and lift gently. Gerbera daisy is a delicate plant and roots can get damaged easily.
3. PULL APART GENTLY – The number of plants you can divide into is clearly visible.  Shake off as much soil as possible. Pull apart the each section gently from the crown area. If it’s too tight, wash in water and it will divide easily.
4. PLANT BACK IMMEDIATELY – Do not keep the roots exposed for too long. Choose a good-weather day to do this. Make sure no direct sunlight falls on the plants while you are dividing them.
5. USE EPSOM SALT – Half fill the new pot and add Epsom salt where the roots will go. 1 tsp. is enough for one plant but it creates magic. Epsom salt helps the gerbera daisy plant settle without dying, pick up quickly and promotes flowering.
6. PLACE THE CROWN CORRECTLY – This is the most important step while dividing gerbera daisies. The crown should never be under soil. It is the part where the leaves and buds sprout. Place it directly above soil level and make sure it never stays too wet. Compact the soil around it and add more if needed. You can water it once to check the soil level after some time and adjust accordingly.
7. KEEP IN SHADE – Never place the new plants in direct sunlight. Keep them outdoors but under the shade till they pick up.

BENEFITS OF DIVIDING GERBERA PLANTS

• It keep them healthy & clean
• Air circulation prevents diseases caused by humidity. Less leaf yellowing, less fungus on soil, less chances of root rot.
• It promotes more blooms
• Roots get more space to grow making gerbera plants stronger & healthier
• You get more free gerbera plants!

It is easy and mess-free to plant tulip bulbs in water instead of soil.

Here’s how:

1. Fill a narrow mouth glass container with water.
2. Place a few pebbles at the bottom.
3. Place the tulip bulb at the mouth of glass container.
4. Make sure only the base of the flower bulb touches the water.
5. Maintain water level.
6. Change water frequently and wash roots weekly, as they emerge.
7. Place in shade till tulip flower bud appears.
8. Keep it clean.
9. The bulb should bloom in about 8-10 weeks.
10. Place in sunlight once it blooms.

You may also use a shallow container with a layer of pebbles on water. Fil water till the level of pebbles and place the bulbs on top. Make sure roots have space to go around the pebbles. Keep pebbles atleast 4″-6″ thick for proper growth.

IS IT BETTER TO GROW TULIP FLOWER BULBS IN WATER OR SOIL?

Growing in water offers certain advantages over planting in soil:

• The bulb has less chances of rotting due to air circulation
• The bulb does not attract soil borne diseases
• You can track the growth of roots
• It is easy to clean & save the bulbs for next season
• You can place it indoors like a vase
• It looks prettier and cleaner
• The bulb has less chances of rotting in standing water
• The bulb does not spoil in soil while blooming

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT GROWING TULIP FLOWERS

Q. Is the flower size smaller if tulip is grown in water instead of soil?

A. NO. The size of bloom depends on the health of bulb, not growing media.

Q. Does tulip bloom once or twice from bulb?

A. Whether in soil or water, one bulb usually produces only sinlge bloom during growing season.

Q. Do tulip bulbs multiply while growing?

A. It may multiply while growing only in very colder climates. It is beter to remove from the soil & divide/propagate it yourself for the next season.

Q. Should tulip bulbs be removed from soil after blooming?

A. YES. Remove them and store or propagate for next season. You may lose them in soil among other plants or they may rot instead of multipying.

Can you use the seeds inside cherry tomato for strating new plants? YES! You can use the cherry tomatoes from your salad to grow your own plants at home for free in your INDIAN GARDEN.

The best and easiest way to grow your own cherry tomato plants is by using slices of salad tomatoes from your kitchen. They contain abundant seeds and even one is sufficient to start your own seedlings and maintain a regular supply of CHERRY TOMATOES.

10 STEP EASY GUIDE FOR GROWING CHERRY TOMATOES FROM SEEDS INSIDE THE FRUIT

1. Take yellow or red cherry tomatoes from your salad box. 1 or 2 each is enough.
2. Slice them thinly so that each section contains a few seeds.
3. Lay them over a layer of garden soil-vermicompost-tissue paper(to absorb the juice).
4. Cover with another thin layer of compost or soil.
5. Do not cover thickly otherwise the seedlings will not be able to poke through.
6. Water just enough to keep them damp.
7. Place under indirect light. Direct sun can kill germinating seeds and tender seedlings.
8. Wait for 5-7 days for germination to begin. This can take longer in cold weather.
9. Spray Epsom salt after 15 days for stronger cherry tomato seedlings.
10. Let them produce at least 2-3 sets of true leaves before you move them into tomato cages.

GROW & CARE FOR CHERRY TOMATOES – EASY TIPS FOR BEGINNERS

• If the tomato slices are covered too thickly they will not germinate.
• Use fresh tomatoes that do not have any fungus otherwise the slices will rot instead of sprouting.
• Epsom salt is great for cherry tomato plants; start spraying every 15 days for healthy seedlings.
• While transplanting cherry tomato seedlings, pull out the entire bunch gently and divide into individual plants.
• Add 1 -2 tsp of Epsom salt at the base of plants, where the roots will go.
• To increase the number of fruits on cherry tomato plants, water them thoroughly each day and keep them clean.
• Give adequate space to growing plants for more healthy fruiting.
• Cherry tomatoes are prone to mealy bugs and other diseases so make sure to spray Neem or Hing based pesticides every 15 days.
• Use tomato cages for extra support or tie (not tightly) the plants to a nearby structure to support the trailing vines.
• Do not let the plants stay wet or they will invite fungus. Water during the day.
• Grow cherry tomatoes in full direct sunlight for healthy plants and lots of fruiting.

why DO seedlings die AFTER GERMINATION?

1. QUICK EXPOSURE TO STRONG SUNLIGHT
2. HARD SOIL
3. DAMPING OFF
4. REACHING FOR SUNLIGHT
5. CROWDING
6. WRONG WATERING TIME
7. LACK OF NUTRIENTS

QUICK EXPOSURE TO STRONG SUNLIGHT

If you had kept the seeds covered or in shade then suddenly removing the cover or exposing to strong sunlight will not work well. Introduce light gradually so that seedlings can adapt to the heat.

HARD SOIL

If the soil is too hard, roots cannot penetrate and grow easily. Hence, they struggle to survive after germination.

DAMPING OFF

Damping off happens when seedlings stay in standing water for too long. They rot at the base and thin out, hence dying slowly. Hence, drainage is very important to ensure there is no stagnant water.

REACHING FOR SUNLIGHT

When seedlings need to try hard to get sunlight, they turn towards the direction of sun and become long and lanky. This distirts their shape and size. Instead of growing evenly they become long, thin & uneven. To prevent this, ensure adequate sun exposure as they grow and keep rotating for even growth.

CROWDING

When too many seeds are planted in a small space, they compete as they grow. The roots fight for space so only the stronger ones survive and others die off.

To prevent this, sow seeds thinly and remove extra growing seedlings yourself. You can also plant them indivdually, somewhere else.

WRONG WATERING TIME

The best time to water seedlings is in the morning so that they stay hydrated during the day. This also ensures that extra water drains off and evaporates slowly. Standing water, too much humidity and damp leaves caused by watering after sunset can cause the seedlings to attract diseases and die.

LACK OF NUTRIENTS

Seed sowing mix must contain good soil full of nutrients required fo healthy seedlings. Make sure to add adequate vermicompost & epsom salt to your seed sowing mix. While the seedlings grow, spray them with epsom salt and humic acid to ensure healthy, even growth of seedlings and strengthen their root system.

Keeping these basic seed sowing tips in mind will be helpful for beginner gardeners to ensure their seedlings grow healthy and not die after germination.

• What is the best way of watering plants?
• Is it OK to water plants at night?
• Does watering correctly prevent diseases?
• How to water plants in different types of pots?
• How to water plants in different types of soil?

Watering may seem like the simplest garden task BUT contributes significantly to plant health.A lot of your garden’s growth depends on HOW & WHEN to water it. So let’s talk about a few frequently asked questions by beginners about watering a plant correctly!

Correct watering is also the key to preventing many plant diseases.

1. WHAT IS THE BEST TIME TO WATER PLANTS – MORNING OR EVENING?

This is the trickiest! The basic requirement is that the roots get ample time to soak up the water before it is evaporated by the sun. e.g. In summers water early in the morning so that the planters do not dry out immediately or in the evening after the glare has lessened. In winters, watering in the morning is the best choice.

2. HOW MUCH TO WATER PLANTS?

If the soil looks dry or the leaves appear wilted, water it! All plants have varying watering requirements. To fix a schedule, water a plant thoroughly once and note after how long does it demand water again.Do this for a few days to figure out its schedule. Group plants with similar timings together. Generally planters require water once a day in summers and once every 2 days in winters with moderate sunshine. Rainy and cloudy days are obvious exceptions. Gardening does benefit from a bit of common sense, isn’t it?

• If leaves appear dry, crumbly or shrunk, the plant needs water.
• If they appear yellowing and wilted, over-watering may be one of the causes.(Because it may also be a deficiency)
• If you notice thinning or rotting at the base(specially annuals like gerbera), either you are watering too much or it isn’t draining properly.

Plants must never float or stand in water! (unless you are growing rice 😛 ) This applies to perennials- Water thoroughly then wait for the soil to almost dry out before watering again. This strengthens the root system of the plant.

3. WATERING PLANTS CORRECTLY TO PREVENT DISEASES

IF you like to wash the leaves of perennials, watering early in the morning is the best choice so that the leaves can dry out. Damp and dark breeds diseases so NEVER water plants after sunset or in the dark.

With the abundance of delicate annuals in winters, it is important to let the wet leaves dry out else they may rot. This is the most common reason for annuals dying. This is specially true for plants that are grouped together with less air circulation.

4. WATERING PLANTS ACCORDING TO PLANTER TYPE

• Porous(terracotta, cement) planters allow water to evaporate more quickly than plastic.
• Smaller ones(obviously) dry out much more quickly than larger ones.

For most annuals, i like to use small to medium planters. In winters, i pick terracotta since it helps with drainage and prevents fungus. In summers, my choice is plastic to retain water OR terracotta kept in partial shade.

5. HOW TO WATER PLANTS ACCORDING TO SOIL TYPE

• Yellow or clayey soil compacts easily and isn’t the ideal. It does not allow water to even pass through when completely dry, forget retention, so before you worry about watering, amend it with some compost or cocopeat.
• Sandy soil allows quick drainage and demands more water.
• Cocopeat, perlite(read more here) retain water and reduce the need. Take care of drainage with these. (Learn the uses of cocopeat, perlite and vermiculite in garden HERE)
• Compost helps soil retain adequate amount of water along with providing adequate amount of nutrients. If visible on the surface it must appear rich, dark brown.

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