The beautiful planet blog

Udaipur - capital of the sun kings

2016-01-24T12:07:00.002+05:30

The twin lake city of Udaipur was the capital of the sun kings of Rajputana. Complete with the hill top monsoon palace, Sajjangarh and nearby attractions of Chittorgarh and Kumbhalgarh to name a few, Udaipur is a leisurely 800 kilometers drive from Delhi and is packed with rich history of the Rajput era. It has many palaces some of which have been converted into luxurious hotels, a bustling lake side ambiance around lakes Pichola and Fateh Sagar and abundant natural beauty of the surrounding Aravali hills.

The drive from Delhi is quite pleasant and takes the better part of a day and it pays to take the detour via Bhilwara to escape the heavy Delhi Mumbai traffic. While Udaipur has enough attractions of its own, excursions to Chittorgarh and Kumbhalgarh are day long affairs in different directions with Udaipur located centrally. For the historically minded, it is advisable to cover the complete circuit to get the full picture of the famous Rajput era.

#udaipur #rajput #mewar #rajputana

So much water and still desert.

2016-01-23T15:07:00.001+05:30

I was flying over the Gulf of Oman when I took this picture with my iPhone. I could see what looked like rivers, swamps, the sea and plenty of sunlight but the land was still desert. There is so much talk about our ability to transform the environment, new technology, people with capital looking for ideas to invest in, human consumption increasing faster than what the planet can provide and greenhouse gases threatening climate change. The oceans have enough water, the deserts enough land and the sun could supply a lot of energy. I suppose we need to find the will and a way to use all that to grow a forest.

Bird photography with the Canon EF 400mm f/4 DO IS USM

2016-01-05T20:36:00.001+05:30

During my last trip to Keoladeo National Park at Bharatpur (click here to read the post) I used a Canon EF 70-200 f/2.8 IS USM L zoom lens. Although it is a serious piece of glass, I felt quite handicapped and it was quite evident that this lens is not suitable for bird photography. So when I purchased the Canon EF 400mm f/4 DO IS USM lens, I decided to go back to the park to test it out. For a detailed technical review on the gear, I suggest you visit Grant Atkinson's blog by following this link. I must thank Grant for helping me make up my mind with his detailed research. I am not a specialist bird photographer who would probably prefer the 600 or the 500. I needed a prime lens that I could also use to photograph bigger animals, that was easier to pack and at the same time would not limit my mobility. When compared with its f/2.8 cousin of the same focal length, the 400 DO is approximately 30% shorter, 50% lighter and 30% cheaper because of its revolutionary diffractive optics.

Keoladeo has two different terrains, a dry zone and a wetland and are inhabited by distinctly different species. While the birds in the dry zone are smaller and rather shy, the wetland species are much larger and most of seem to have no fear of humans. Of course there are exceptions to this generalization and there are also some species, most notably the birds of prey which are to be found in both terrains. I found that I could get close enough to the smaller species to fill up the frame and used the 1.4x extender to photograph the especially shy ones. For the larger birds, I had to take off the extender and 400mm was sufficiently long to fill up the frame. I was using a monopod most of the time but could also take a few handheld photographs of flying birds.

I found the two IS modes very handy, one for handheld and the other when the camera was mounted on the monopod. Autofocus is very fast and accurate and I adjusted the minimum focusing distance to 8 meters for even faster focus when the subjects were farther away. I was quite impressed with the number of photographs I could take with sharp focus on the eyes and background blur and bokeh were also impressive. In summary, I am quite impressed and cannot think of any points to complain about. None of these photographs have been enhanced, cropped or modified in any way whatsoever. Please let me know what you think.

For a one minute video on the wetlands of Keoladeo national park follow this link.

#keoladeo #bharatpur #birdphotography #canon400mmdo

Jodhpur – a city of forts and palaces

2016-01-01T15:15:00.001+05:30

The city of Jodhpur lies in the centre of Rajasthan and is a large city with a population of over one million. While I have been to the capital city of Jaipur many times, it is only when I came to Jodhpur that I could feel the spirit of the royal clans of the desert that the state of Rajasthan is famous for. While Jaipur is a busy capital city, Jodhpur has still retained its original wilder character. Beyond Jodhpur the Thar desert stretches for hundreds of kilometers and further ahead lie many smaller towns and hamlets such as Jaisalmer and Pokhran.

The Mehrangarh fort is situated on top of a hill overlooking the city of Jodhpur and offers majestic views of this blue walled city and the desert beyond. During the days of the Maharajas, different cities were painted in different colours. While Jodhpur is predominantly blue, Jaipur came to be known as the pink city because of its pink coloured walls.

The fort houses a museum that is well stocked with artifacts and records of its history, every stone of the fort seem to tell us stories of its glorious past. The royal chambers have a ceiling designed with pure gold and walls richly carved in oriental designs.

Another important attraction is the Umaid Bhawan Palace and is definitely worth a visit. The palace has three parts consisting of the residence of the royal family, a luxury hotel and a museum. The museum hosts an interesting collection of vintage cars that belonged to the royal family.

Jodhpur is the central stop-over in the famous Indian desert road trip with Jaisalmer to the west, Bikaner to the north, Udaipur to the south and Jaipur to the East.

#jodhpur #rajasthan #mehrangarhfort #umaidbhawanpalace #thardesert #desertroadtrip

Gajner wildlife sanctuary - a desert experiment

2015-12-27T12:45:00.000+05:30

Situated in western Rajasthan 32 kilometers from Bikaner, the Gajner wildlife sanctuary is one of the smallest wildlife sanctuaries in India and boasts of its own hotel and lake in an oasis in the Thar desert. It is home to the endangered Black Buck and a few other species of herbivores and birds.

We were on a long driving trip in the Rajasthan desert and the segment from Jaisalmer to Bikaner had turned out to be especially desolate. It was late afternoon as we were approaching Bikaner where we had a hotel already booked for us for the night. We spotted a road sign of the Gajner Palace Hotel and decided to take a detour. As we got off the highway onto an unpaved track, we came across this old hunting palace of the Maharaja which has been now converted into a hotel. We were so impressed by this dramatic change of scenery that we decided to check in for a day abandoning our pre planned schedule.

The Gajner Palace hotel is well preserved and will pleasantly surprise even the most discerning traveler. While the architecture is impressive and reminds us of the good old days of the Maharajas of India, it is also of a relatively recent era when western influences had already started influencing tastes in India. As a hotel it is very well run, the staff is very caring and the food delicious whether you wish to be treated in the formal restaurant or prefer to be pampered with room service. The lakeside gardens are especially relaxing and offer excellent views of the surrounding scenery. The lawns are quite expansive and ideal for leisurely walks with a camera or if you just wish to listen to the wildlife, you may settle down on any of the benches by the lakeside.

The wildlife sanctuary is more of an experiment in the study of desert flora and fauna and is a welcome distraction to the traveler on a long desert road trip. The hotel offers safari trips in open 4x4 vehicles with knowledgeable guides for company.

#gajner #oasis #desertroadtrip #rajasthan

Jaisalmer - desert safari.

2014-11-29T16:49:00.000+05:30

Jaisalmer was once a thriving desert kingdom in the middle of the great Indian desert. This fort city was an important stop over along the ancient trade route that stretched all the way from the middle east to the far east. But after India's independence and its subsequent partition, four wars and continuing tensions between the two nations have completely wiped out this ancient route. Jaisalmer now stands isolated on one end of the Indian part of the Thar desert. Its economy now depends almost entirely upon tourism and although the golden yellow facade of the ancient castle still shines in the scorching sun, its ramparts remind us of the better days it has seen in the past.

Although geopolitics has changed its economic character, the colorful costumes worn by the local people and their music still leave a strong impression on the mind. In its modern avatar, Jaisalmer offers the complete package for the Indian desert safari. The desert camps at Sam sand dunes and the camel rides are exactly as you would expect. An additional attraction is the nearby Desert National Park which is home to many species of resident and migratory birds, mammals and reptiles, some of which are endangered.

#jaisalmer #desertsafari #desertroadtrip #rajasthan #desertnationalpark

Secret garden in the desert - Manvar

2014-11-29T14:34:00.001+05:30

The Manvar Desert Camp is situated near Dechu on the highway that connects the desert cities of Jodhpur and Jaisalmer. We were on a long road trip in western Rajasthan and had decided to spend some time to cool our heels in this desert resort..

We had started from Delhi early in the morning and reached the camp just before dinner after driving a little more than 700 kilometers. We were received with a traditional Rajasthani welcome ceremony and after a sumptuous meal of traditional Laal Maans (red meat) we turned in for the night.

We woke up next morning to the loud calls of peacocks and after a quiet morning tea on the verandah, we decided to explore the premises. The Manvar campus is dotted with stone buildings with thatched roofs and surrounded by a lush green landscaped garden.

Manvar is ideally located for a quiet break if you are planning the famous desert road trip in western Rajasthan. The beautiful garden and the wildlife that flocks to it from the desert form a tiny microcosm that is a remarkable antithesis to its natural surroundings.

#desertroadtrip #jaisalmer #jodhpur #rajasthan #desertgarden #laalmaans #secretgarden

Chittorgarh - flashback into history

2014-08-31T12:09:00.000+05:30

Standing on top of a hill in the beautiful Aravali hills in Rajasthan is the historic fortress city of Chittorgarh, a world heritage site and the largest fort in India. There are many forts in India but none that conjure a saga as poignant as this Rajput citadel. Any tale involving the Rajput kings is replete with accounts of chivalry, valour and tragedy and the story of Chittorgarh is grandiosely epitomical.

As a fortress Chittorgarh was almost impregnable and withstood numerous attacks between the 7th and 16th centuries. The fort was captured three times by Allauddin Khilji, Bahadur Shah and finally by Emperor Akbar in 1567 after which it was abandoned. Every time the brave Rajput warriors rode out to face the superior enemy and were slaughtered to the last man, thousands of Rajput women committed jauhar by burning themselves to save their honour. What followed was plunder and devastation and the ruins that remain today still speak about the way of life that prevailed in the medieval kingdom.

Chittorgarh is like a time capsule that opens a window into India's glorious past. It is a comfortable day trip from Udaipur and highly recommended for those interested in history, archaeology and culture.

#chittorgarh #history #archaeology #medievalindia

Goa - beach heaven

2014-08-23T12:28:00.002+05:30

Goa is one of India's top sea-side destinations and is situated on the western coast overlooking the Arabian sea. For a country with a coastline of more than 7500 kilometers, Goa alone receives more than 2 million tourists every year.

The local people have a very warm and friendly nature and a laid back attitude to life that can be quite infectious. For me a trip to Goa typically means laying on the beach, savouring freshly caught fish in one of the beach side shacks and watching the sun go down.

Make sure you make a trip to Goa's magical beaches at least once in your lifetime.

#goa #beach #sunset #seafood

The Taj Mahal and Humayun's Tomb - a tale of two monuments.

2014-07-27T16:01:00.000+05:30

If you have been to India, you have probably seen the Taj Mahal, one of the wonders of the world and the ultimate monument to love. Built in white marble and one of the most beautiful buildings in the world, the Taj was built by the fifth Mughal emperor, Shah Jahan in memory of his wife, Mumtaz. The building was completed in 1653 and stands 73 meters tall on the bank of the river Yamuna.

But if you travel upstream to Delhi, you will find another monument which has remarkable similarities to the Taj. Humayun's tomb stands proudly in the middle of India's capital city, not far from the same river. Humayun was the second Mughal emperor and his tomb was completed in 1572. It is 47 meters tall and is built in red sandstone and white marble.

So if you are unable to make a trip to Agra this time or want to visit only when you come with your wife or husband, take a trip to Humayun's tomb before you head for the airport!

#Tajmahal #Humayun #Agra #India

Romantic Venice - celebrating life

2014-07-05T10:20:00.001+05:30

We boarded Trenitalia from Milan on our way to Venice. Seated across us were an old and frail looking Australian couple who were coming back after twenty years. That kind of set the standard on how romantic Venice can be. And we hadn't even gotten there yet!

The rest of it was a lesson on how to celebrate life. Think about a city that started sinking even before global warming set in. Venetians have not only learnt how to cope with it but actually serenade it as their unique way of life. And the whole world comes to join in this celebration everyday.

The city is so old that there are no historical records of its founding. And old it looks. Parts of it are almost falling apart while the rest of it is struggling to stay upright. But the older it gets, the dearer it becomes and looks all the prettier for it. Although we were visiting for the first time, we felt that we had known this city for a long long time. We would love to go back in another twenty years.

#holiday #travel #photography #wanderlust #romantic #destination

The Hudson Theatre, New York - Magical Broadway

2014-06-21T20:00:00.003+05:30

This iconic theatre was built by Henry B. Harris, a Broadway producer and opened in 1903. Harris died in 1912 when he sank with the Titanic during its ill fated voyage. It has survived 18 different owners since then including CBS and NBC and was twice almost demolished to make room for parking complexes but miraculously survived.

The Hudson Theatre has seen many momentous occasions during its more than hundred year history and even today seeps the rich heritage of New York's art and culture. The talk show format was invented here when in 1954 the original Tonight Show started with Steve Allen. Barbara Streisand started her career here and many other celebrities such as Elvis Presley have performed here.

My trip to New York could not have been completed without an evening spent at the Hudson Theatre and was the perfect way for me to time travel through New York's rich cultural history.

#hudsontheatre #broadway #NYart #NYculture #NYheritage #indranilgoswami

Fishing in the Indian Himalayas - Manali

2014-06-15T14:13:00.000+05:30

The glacial and rain fed rivers of the Indian Himalayas offer many opportunities for game fishing. Although I am not new to these mountains, like most people I tend to think of the usual destinations when planning my holidays. This new sport compelled me to approach the subject in a different way. For example, I have been to Jim Corbett National Park a few times and this destination is usually associated with wildlife safaris. But I never knew that the Ramganga river outside the park offered some of the richest opportunities for fishing Mahseer. Similarly, Manali is usually associated with what can be expected of a typical hill station. But the Beas offers excellent opportunities for fishing Trout.

This April I went on a driving holiday to Manali and decided to try my luck at trout fishing on the Beas. The weather was quite pleasant with plenty of fresh snow on the higher slopes. The roads were quite well maintained and traffic not very heavy as the school vacations had not yet started.

I purchased some basic equipment from the local adventure gear shop run by Mr. Rajinder Paul (http://visitmanali.com/trekshop/). Mr. Paul is a very knowledgeable and helpful person and a trip to his shop is highly recommended for anyone planning adventure activities around Manali. If not anything else, you are likely to bump into an endless stream of enthusiastic adventurers who are his ardent admirers. He was happy to give me a crash course into the basics of fishing and suggested that I should purchase a fishing permit from the nearby Kunzum hotel.

Armed with my permit and newly acquired gear, I hit the road the following morning on my 4x4 vehicle. There are many fishing spots on the Beas between Kullu and Manali and it is a very comfortable day trip with plenty of time and opportunities for stopping over for lunch and sightseeing, especially for people passionate about nature and landscape photography. I drove downstream from Manali on the opposite bank of the river through Nagar, crossed over to the other side just before Kullu before returning back to Manali in the evening. The road on the opposite side is narrower and more scenic but the river is closer to the road on the side of the main highway that goes to Manali.

Fishing is a highly evolved sport with passionate following among its enthusiasts. But for a novice like me, the biggest attraction is the opportunity to be close to nature and the fact that it needs very little equipment or preparation. Not only is it a relaxing pastime, a little study and practice can add a rather addictive dimension to this sport. Experts tell me that this addiction grows steadily with time and unlike most other sports, can be practiced by people of all age groups.

#manali #beas #fishing #4x4 #himalayas #mahseer #trout #adventure #gear #photography #indranilgoswami

How to choose a good pair of binoculars

2014-02-08T14:29:00.003+05:30

One of the most essential adventure gear to carry on a wildlife safari is a pair of binoculars. I strongly recommend that you invest in a good quality instrument or not at all. Essentially there are two parameters one needs to keep in mind, magnification and the diameter of the main lens. I use a Vanguard 10x42 instrument. This means that the magnification is 10x and the diameter of the lens is 42mm and is ideal for wildlife including birdwatching.

A higher magnification means that objects appear closer. You may be tempted to think that the larger device, the better but this is not necessarily true. Larger devices are cumbersome to carry and use up space in your backpack.10x is a good magnification to choose because anything higher than that is not suitable for handheld use. Subjects will be difficult to locate because of the narrow field of view and there will be excessive hand shake.

A larger lens diameter however means more light enters and therefore visibility is better under low light conditions. Often the best time to spot wildlife is early morning or late evening when they are more active. You will be amazed to see how a larger lens improves image quality under such circumstances. Choose a lens diameter greater than 40mm if you intend to use it outdoors for wildlife.

Another important feature is "eye relief" and is especially important if you are wearing spectacles. In case you wear spectacles and you want to share the device with your partner who does not, the eye relief setting can be adjusted so that the lens of the eye piece is always at the right distance fro the eye.

"Dioptre adjustment" allows the instrument to compensate for small differences between your eyes and can be quite handy for most people.

It is a good idea to buy a waterproof instrument with a robust body as it will be used outdoors, sometimes under adverse weather conditions. Make sure your device is not too large or heavy because it may not be comfortable to wear around your neck for long durations.

#geartalk #binoculars #adventure #wildlife #safari #indranilgoswami

Barcelona - sights and sounds

2014-02-02T15:01:00.000+05:30

One of the ten most visited cities on earth, dating before Christ and a curious mixture of the ancient and the modern, Barcelona is unique. Oozing art, culture, history and signature architecture from every street corner and sporting a warm Mediterranean spirit, this city can leave you spell bound. Barcelona paints a canvass so wide that you can simultaneously experience Gaudi and Picasso as well as the street artists on la rambla. There is something in Barcelona for everyone, from people who savour culture through street music or food to those who practice a religion called football.

I still remember the opening ceremony of the 1992 Olympics when Antonio Rebollo shot a flaming arrow to light the Olympic cauldron, a brave thing to attempt but Barceloninas have always expressed themselves boldly. The statue of Columbus reminds us that after his first trip to the new world, he came to Barcelona to report to his king. And the statue shows Columbus pointing to the sea, urging his countrymen that their future lay out there.

The rest was of course history as they went out to explore and conquer the world. But today, the world comes to Barcelona as if in a full circle in admiration of their exploits in art, culture and sport.

CLICK HYPERLINK FOR: Street music of Barcelona

#barcelona #streetmusic #gaudi #picasso #rambla #indranilgoswami

Reminiscences of Jaipur - a day in the life of a royal city.

2014-01-26T13:58:00.002+05:30

It was a hot summer day in Jaipur, also known as the pink city of India. Visitors as well as locals were either hugging the shadows of the thick palace walls or had retreated into its cooler interiors. We had arrived after a four and a half hour drive from Delhi and our first stop was the historical fort of Amer.

Jaipur was earlier the capital of the kingdom of Amer and is currently the capital of the state of Rajasthan in western India. Although a large city with a bustling economy, many ordinary citizens still depend upon tourism for their livelihood. A city of many forts and palaces, Jaipur is crowded, noisy and chaotic at the best of times but a photographer's paradise. Walking down the streets can seem intimidating at first but one feels quickly consumed in the hustle and bustle of this friendly city.

The kings of Amer had encouraged arts and crafts in their time and even today many families of artisans are still keeping alive this heritage as family tradition and livelihood. These are the sights and sounds that remain on top of mind and typify this colorful capital of the desert state of Rajasthan.

#jaipur #rajasthan #amer #indranilgoswami

Sajjangarh - monsoon palace

2014-01-25T14:22:00.002+05:30

Situated on the top of a hill, this palace was built by the Rajput king, Maharana Sajjan Singh in the 19th century as his monsoon retreat. Surrounded by the Sajjangarh wildlife sanctuary, the palace overlooks the twin lake city of Udaipur on one side and the beautiful Aravali hills on the other, offering excellent panoramic views of both. A 4x4 vehicle is ideal though not essential for the short drive through the sanctuary and the rather steep hairpin bends near the top. For people interested in wildlife photography there is the distinct possibility of spotting some exotic birds enroute.

The building has been reopened to the public after repairs and has certainly seen better days from the times of its Rajput kings to hosting James Bond in the film Octopussy. I visited during the monsoons and being neither royalty nor secret agent, was more interested in watching the sun set over the Aravallis.

By virtue of its more modest scale, Sajjangarh offers a more intimate insight into the lifestyles of the royal families of the past. The passage of time has taken its toll on India's principalities and only their vestiges linger to remind us of the days gone by.

#sajjangarh #monsoonpalace #rajput #udaipur #4x4 #photography #octopussy #indranilgoswami

Kumbhalgarh fort - maharaja country

2014-01-25T11:08:00.002+05:30

The historical Kumbhalgarh fort is located 82 kilometers northwest of Udaipur in the state of Rajasthan in western India. This 15th century Rajput fortress is the birthplace of Maharana Pratap, the great warrior king and is surrounded by the Kumbhalgarh wildlife sanctuary in the Aravali mountains, one of the world's oldest mountain ranges. The walls of the fortress extend over a length of 36 kilometers and are the longest in India. There are more than 360 ancient Jain and Hindu temples within its ramparts.

I visited Kumbhalgarh during the monsoons and it was a comfortable day trip from Udaipur. A hike to the top of the hill offers excellent views of the mountain side and it is said that on a clear day it is possible to see all the way upto the sand dunes of the Thar desert. Since I was visiting during the monsoons, I could not see that far but the lush greenery of the countryside more than made up. More interestingly, I could visualise what life was like for the royal families of medieval India as I walked through the royal quarters of the maharajas.

For centuries, generations of Rajput kings waged guerrilla warfare against the more powerful Mughal invaders in the forests and ravines of the Aravalis and would vanish behind the inhospitable dunes of the Thar. They built beautiful temples and erected grand fortresses to protect their brethren and way of life. The lives of the local folk seem to have changed very little even now as most villagers still rely on farming and animal husbandry for a living and their attire and music still reminds us of the days long gone.

The sound and light show and wildlife safari are added attractions and it is advisable to stay in one of the local hotels and check the timings in advance if these are on your agenda. Kumbhalgarh is one of the lesser known destinations in India and can be approached from Mumbai or Delhi. It is definitely worth a visit for those who prefer to stay off the beaten paths to explore the cultural heritage of India.

#kumbhalgarh #fort #ranapratap #rajput #rajasthan #udaipur #hiking #maharaja #wildlife #safari #indranilgoswami

Jim Corbett national park - first among equals

2014-01-25T11:06:00.002+05:30

Jim Corbett National Park (http://www.corbettnationalpark.in) was established in 1936 to protect the endangered Royal Bengal Tiger and is the oldest protected wildlife sanctuary in India. This was my second trip to Corbett and the biggest improvement since my last trip is the online booking system. These days one can book park entry permits, forest rest houses and safari vehicles on the internet!

The forest rest house at Bijrani was my base camp for four days and had its own charm. Situated deep in the park with no electricity except solar power for a few hours in the evening and very faint, intermittent mobile phone connectivity if you are lucky, you can go off grid in a very real way. Its a good idea to bring spare batteries for your camera and switch off your cell phone because it is not possible to charge any batteries. Bring candles if you plan to stay up after nine in the evening and listen to the wildlife who are especially active at night.

The biggest item on the agenda was off course the tiger. I found it very difficult to not get obsessed about spotting the tiger given the history and ethos of the place and the role it has played in tiger conservation in India.

On the first day it became quite clear that tigers in Corbett were doing well as a number of females were reportedly raising cubs successfully. But that did not in any way mean that spotting them would get any easier. Tigers are solitary animals and are especially secretive when raising cubs. Since they rely on stealth and ambush to catch prey and otherwise stay put, spotting them is very difficult in the thick post-monsoon jungle. The only chance to spot them is when they are moving and it pays to be patient and follow alarm calls of deer, monkeys and other lesser mortals.

For three days we combed every jungle track on a 4x4 vehicle and even went off track on elephant back and on a few occasions got very close, judging from alarm calls and pug marks, but still could not even get a fleeting glimpse of the elusive animal. But we were making progress because we could make out a pattern in the movement of one of the animals, reportedly a female with cubs. Apparently the tigress had her lair on a low lying hill with very thick undergrowth near a dried up river bed. There were tracks on three sides of the hill and we could hear alarm calls of deer all day as the cubs would play in plain sight of them but we could not spot them because they were out of sight from any of the tracks. 4x4 vehicles are not allowed to go off track and it is prohibited to get off the vehicle except in designated locations. On the second day, some people saw her cross one of the tracks with her cubs and we decided to spend more time trying to locate possible crossing points from pug marks.

On the fourth morning, we were the first vehicle to reach the range and after checking out the usual waterholes, we decided to dig in once again near the hill at a spot from where we could see the river bed as well. There was some tension in the air because we would be checking out of the park after lunch and were wondering whether all our efforts would amount to nothing. A cheetal (spotted deer) was making intermittent calls but otherwise the jungle was quiet and visibility was good on a typically cold January morning.

I was scanning the distant river bed through my 400mm camera lens when I spotted the tigress walking over some large stones on the far side of the river bed and soon I could see all the four cubs appear one by one from the thick grass on the far side and follow her. Our driver knew a spot where he believed the tigress would cross the track to go to her lair and we rushed to intercept her to shoot some pictures from a closer distance. On the way we had to stop to help another vehicle which was having starting trouble and as we were about to reach the intended interception point, we found the tigress walking down the track, hardly fifteen meters from our vehicle with one of her cubs. We could hear the other cubs calling from the undergrowth and as we quietly followed her, we soon realised that we had inadvertently placed ourselves between her and her other cubs. Obviously she was quite used to this because she did not appear to be too worried and after about ten minutes, the whole family disappeared into the undergrowth.

I learnt later that the tigress had made a kill on the grassland near the river and had taken the cubs to feed and was on the way back when we spotted her. She did appear to be a very confident mother and I wish with all my heart that this single mother will be able to raise her family successfully. I had not expected to see a tiger with four cubs when I started on the trip, that too at such a close distance. I can barely comprehend how precious this family is to tiger conservation in India. The magic of the tiger lives on in Jim Corbett National Park.

I would like to add a few notes on how to prepare for a jungle safari. The 4x4 vehicles have open tops and therefore, it is a good idea to carry a weather proof jacket in case of rain and the wind chill in the early morning can make one feel quite cold. Temperatures can rise considerably as the day progresses and it is a good idea to dress in multiple layers so that you can take off a layer if you feel warm. Felt is a good material for your middle layer because it is lighter than wool for the same insulation. It is a good idea to dress in colours that can blend into the jungle background because some animals are quite shy and can be easily spooked. It is a good idea to bring a good pair of binoculars and you may click this link for advice on how to choose one. For photographers, a camera with a zoom lens is essential. I was carrying a DSLR with a 70-200 mm zoom lens with a 2x extender, which essentially converted it into a 140-400 mm lens. Anything longer than that would be practically unusable in a moving vehicle though I did spot one gentleman with what looked like a 500mm lens mounted on a tri-pod. For city dwellers who are not used to spending a lot of time outdoors, adequate sunscreen protection is highly recommended. For ladies who do not want to have their hair messed up in the wind, a large silk scarf is quite handy.

#jimcorbett #nationalpark #wildlife #safari #tiger #4x4 #photography #bijrani #indranilgoswami #bigcat

Keoladeo national park - manmade hot spot

2014-01-25T11:04:00.000+05:30

Formerly known as Bharatpur National Park this bird sanctuary is a UNESCO World Heritage Site located near Agra in north India. Interestingly there are three other UNESCO World Heritage Sites within fifty kilometers of this place. For people interested in history, nature, birding and photography all four can be comfortably managed in a weekend getaway from Delhi.

In spite of its global stature this national park has a uniquely Indian character. Instead of a 4x4 vehicle you travel in a cycle rickshaw. There is no engine noise which means you add another dimension to your wildlife experience. Secondly you slow down to an almost walking pace and city dwellers like me will find this very relaxing. The rickshaw drivers are well trained and can engage in informed conversations on birding in an endearingly rustic manner.

While most tourists visit during the period when migratory birds arrive, one can see many resident species at other times of the year. However it is not a good idea to visit during the summer and monsoon seasons. Early mornings and evenings are best as many species find the midday sun too harsh. It is a good idea to carry a good pair of binoculars. While most species are almost oblivious to human presence others are very shy and will take flight at the slightest perception of danger and usually maintain a safe distance. For photographers a long lens with wide aperture is recommended for pictures with good background blur and high shutter speed, especially in low light conditions. A monopod will not only reduce camera shake but will also mean less strain for your neck and forearms.

Keoladeo is a man-made bird sanctuary with a fragile ecosystem anchored around its water management system. But what makes this place special is that it is a hot spot in the annual migratory flight paths of birds that stretch for thousands of miles over the surface of the planet. It may be tempting to think that man is able to master the mysteries of nature. But the more deeply we attempt to understand nature the more we are humbled by its myriad intricacies.

For more on Keoladeo national park follow this link.

#bharatpur #keoladeo #birding #wildlife #photography #nationalpark #indranilgoswami

Rajaji national park - unspoiled

2014-01-25T11:02:00.002+05:30

If you are planning a last minute jungle safari in one of the national parks in India, I would recommend Rajaji National Park near Haridwar.

I visited the Chilla range last winter. On the first morning we started early and were one of the first vehicles to enter the park. We were hoping to get in before the animals retreated deeper into the jungle. It was a foggy December morning and visibility was only upto about fifty meters. We were suddenly face to face with an adult elephant who had clearly not seen our 4x4 vehicle approaching and was as startled as we were. With one defeaning trumpet it vanished into the mist. This hapenned so fast that although I had my camera ready, I had time to take only one blurry shot.

As the sun rose, the day got warmer and the fog cleared. Since most of the track is on a dried up river bed, visibility was excellent for hundreds of meters, truly a wildlife photographer's paradise. One could appreciate the beauty of nature on a gigantic scale as a number of different species went about their daily business.

I asked the driver to stop the vehicle and switch off the engine. The animals started ignoring us after sometime and we began to spot a large number of smaller birds and animals for the first time. There were tiny fish in the water and I watched a kingfisher dive for fish and a woodpecker tap on a tree trunk.

We spotted another solitary elephant later in the afternoon . We tried to take a good position near a stream where we hoped it would stop for a drink. But it stopped at the edge of the forest when it saw us. We waited for quite some time but it was clearly more patient than we were and soon we had to leave as the park was about to close for the day.

Rajaji is famous for wild elephants while tigers are the main draw for tourists in the other more famous national parks such as Jim Corbett National Park or Bandhavgarh National Park. Consequently, this place is still relatively unspoiled and if you can enjoy a wildlife safari without being obsessed by the tiger, Rajaji is definitely the place for you.

#rajaji #nationalpark #elephant #wildlife #safari #4x4 #indranilgoswami

Bandhavgarh national park - paradise on earth

2014-01-25T11:01:00.002+05:30

If you want to see a tiger in the wild, one of the best places to go to is Bandhavgarh National Park in the central Indian state of Madhya Pradesh. If you have been watching wildlife channels and think you know what to expect, you will realize how difficult it is to actually see anything at all in the thick Indian jungle. Tigers are particularly difficult to spot because of their secretive nature and low numbers. During an earlier trip to Jim Corbett National Park I was able to get a fleeting glimpse of a tiger after trying for three days.

Experts say that the chances of spotting the tiger is highest just before the monsoons when visibility through the dry undergrowth is best and the wildlife tend to crowd near the few remaining water holes. It pays to carry a good pair of binoculars and you may click this link for advice on how to choose one. I was visiting during winter and was a little apprehensive about my chances. On the first day of safari, I started chatting with the driver of my 4x4 vehicle to get a feel of what every day life was like in the nearby villages. A woman had been killed by a female tiger the night before as she was returning home after sunset. The villagers were unable to retrieve her body because the tigress and her two cubs were still guarding their kill. Elephants had been despatched to scare them away and that was why there were no elephant rides available in the park.

As we drove along the track following pug marks made earlier in the morning, we came across what looked like an abandoned village. I was told that this village has been reclaimed into the park recently and the villagers have been resettled somewhere else. It was nice to know that the wildlife was fighting back and actually winning! We drove to Bandhavgarh hill at the base of which lies the famous 10th century statue of lord Vishnu known as Shesh Chaya and went hiking up the hill to the historic fort of Bandhavgarh. If you have a weak heart, this adventure is not recommended, especially because it is right in the middle of tiger territory!

After two days of safari and still no tiger sighting, I was under some pressure. One part of my mind was telling me to give up while the other part was expecting to see a tiger at each turn of the jungle track. On my last day, as we drove along, I noticed that we had not seen or crossed a single vehicle for quite some time. My driver told me that probably there has been a sighting and all the vehicles have stopped somewhere. We drove as fast as we could for about ten minutes and finally could see a long line of stationary vehicles with all the passengers looking in one direction. And sure enough, there were two tigers mock fighting each other in the distance. You can only get a true sense of their huge size when you see them in the wild. What also stuck me was that unlike any other species, tigers showed no fear of either humans or anything else as they are truly on top of the food chain. We were very lucky because this special show lasted for about twenty minutes and I had finally earned my bragging rights as a wildlife photographer.

Bandhavgarh is a paradise in the middle of the ocean of humanity that is India. This protected park is a true national treasure where wildlife and ancient history still survive. Make sure you visit this place at least once in your lifetime.

#bandhavgarh #nationalpark #tiger #photography #4x4 #safari #wildlife #indranilgoswami #bigcat

Tattapani - gentle rolling hills

2014-01-25T11:00:00.001+05:30

Last summer I drove to a place called Tattapani in Himachal Pradesh. Tattapani is located on the banks of the river Sutlej in the Indian Himalayas. It is a comfortable day trip from Shimla if you are driving with your family and want to come back to your hotel by sunset.

Tattapani is famous for river rafting and hot sulphur springs but there is a lot more to this place if you are not into that kind of sport. What I liked most about this trip was the beautiful landscape as I drove along MDR 13 that connects this place to Shimla. MDR stands for Major District Road and these roads are typically narrower than state and national highways. If you like driving in the hills and own a four wheel drive vehicle, you will find MDRs more exciting than their bigger cousins. Not only is there a heightened sense of adventure, you will also feel closer to nature. In fact I specifically look for MDRs on Google Maps whenever I plan a trip in the mountains. Finding your way to Tattapani and back is very easy if your car has a satellite navigation system. I did not have to ask for directions even once.

This section of the Himalayas is very beautiful during the monsoons because of the fresh greenery covering the gentle rolling hills. The clean mountain air allows you to see clearly far off into the distance. Make sure you carry a wide angle lens with your DSLR if you own one and its a good idea to fix a CPL filter if you want to catch the details of the clouds against the blue background of the sky. Roll down the windows and switch off the AC as you drive along the winding roads. You can smell the fresh mountain air and listen to the many sounds of the forest. Make sure you are not in a hurry and take as many breaks as you want on the way.

I like photography, 4x4 driving and hiking and am usually looking for destinations where I can pursue these interests. I would recommend this trip to anyone who shares the same passions and is also looking for a little adventure.

#tattapani #himalayas #4x4 #photography #sutlej #rafting #landscape #gentlerollinghills #indranilgoswami