The BITUMAT B2 ebook makes a great training tool for new hires or those new to the machine, and can help the most seasoned professionals learn new tricks that will keep the machine in peak operating condition. For example:

“With an aerosol can of silicone, spray any part of the machine that may be exposed to splattering bitumen.... This silicone will serve as a buffer between the melted bitumen and the machine’s surface, making it easier to clean.”

(Please Note: Links will not work when clicked in the SlideShare player.)

File size is 15MB, will take several minutes to download.

Sections include:

• Product Details — Machine features, specifications, and performance and technical data.
• Operating Instructions — Details on how to prepare the BITUMAT B2 for operation, effectively weld bitumen seams, and properly shut down the machine.
• Resources — How-to instructions for basic maintenance and part replacement, and troubleshooting tips to correct poor welding performance.
• Parts List — Detailed part diagrams of the BITUMAT B2 and its ELECTRON hot-air blower, with order numbers for quick reference.
• Accessories — A list of machine accessories available for individual purchase.
• Related Leister Products — Other Leister automatic welding machines for the roofing industry.
• Service and Support — IHS service and support center contact information.

File size is 15MB, will take several minutes to download.

In this post, we’ll detail:

• How to identify quality bitumen seam weld.
• Two tips to repeatedly create strong welds using the Leister BITUMAT B2.

What a Bitumen Seam Weld Should Look Like

One sign of a strong bitumen weld is that a bead of melted material appears as the two sheets are pressed together, as you can see in the video below: 

To see the other sign, weld two pieces together. As soon as the bitumen surface temperature over the recently welded seam is the same as the rest of the bitumen sheet, rip the two sheets apart. A quality weld should reveal the scrim of one of the bitumen pieces (as shown right).

Obviously, you can’t perform this last quality check on your finished seam, so before beginning your final weld, perform a test. 

Always Run a Test Weld

One way to ensure a strong seam weld is to perform a test weld before starting any project. There are a variety of factors that can affect weld quality, including machine settings (i.e. temperature, air volume and speed) and environmental factors (i.e. ambient temperature, moisture, direct sunlight). 

To perform a test weld:

1. Cut two 10-foot strips of bitumen sheeting and overlap the edges. 
2. Weld them together using your pre-heated BITUMAT B2.
3. Using a hook blade, cut three-to-five, 2-inch-wide strips perpendicular to the welded seam (as shown right). These strips should come from the beginning, middle and end of your seam. 
4. Wait for the surface temperature to cool (as detailed above), and then rip each strip apart to see if the scrim is revealed.

Keep Your Machine Clean

The other way to ensure a quality seam weld, and to keep your BITUMAT B2 in proper working order, is to keep your machine clean. Welding bitumen is a messy job and will likely result in melted bitumen splattering on the BITUMAT B2 and coating the nozzle. A build up of this material can damage the tool and affect welding performance. 

Before powering on the machine, spray silicone on any BITUMAT B2 part in range of splattering bitumen, including the machine’s undercarriage, drive wheel, hot-air blower (do not spray the flat end of the nozzle), and black panel. The silicone acts as buffer between the bitumen and machine surface, making the mess easier to clean away. (NOTE: Do not spray silicone on a hot or activated machine. Aerosol silicone spray is very flammable.)

After each use, clean any bitumen off of the machine, paying special attention to the: 

• Nozzle—While the nozzle is still hot, use a stainless steel wire brush to scrape away the melted bitumen so that all air holes are clear of obstruction. A blocked nozzle can restrict airflow and cause heat to back up and overheat the heating element or machine.
• Drive Roller—Use silicone and a rag to wipe away any melted bitumen on the drive roller. A build up of bitumen can cause the drive roller to lay unevenly against the surface, leading to inconsistent seam pressure.

If you notice your BITUMAT B2 not reaching the proper temperature, or producing poor welds, it may be a sign of a more serious problem. Contact our Leister service center at 800-635-0384 or info@ihshotair.com.

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Information is intended as a guide only, and should be used by individuals familiar with the Leister BITUMAT B2 features, functionality and electrical components. IHS is not responsible for injury or equipment damage that may result from operator negligence. 

Prior to setting up, operating or performing maintenance on your Leister product, be sure to read through all safety warnings and cautions contained within the product-operating manual. If you have any questions, need assistance or would like a product demo, contact the IHS service center at 800-635-0384.

However, a singly-ply roofing system is only as good as its seam welds. To consistently create durable, watertight seams that can withstand heavy weathering (i.e. wind, rain, snow, standing water and sun), you’ll need to invest in the right equipment.

Following is an overview on the type of equipment needed for quality single-ply roof seam welding.

1. Automatic Walk Welder

Automatic walk welders are designed to roll along straight seams while applying consistent heat and pressure. The result is a quality, reproducible weld. When purchasing, look for a welder with:

• Digital display that shows both set and actual temperatures, giving you more control over heat output. These displays should also alert you of any malfunctions, such as a faulty heating element. 
• Drive motor powerful enough to handle slight roofing inclines.
• Silicon-based pressure roller to ensure even pressure is applied to a seam despite small surface inconsistencies.
• Guide bar that will allow you to steer the machine without having to bend over, limiting fatigue and increasing daily output.
• Option to add extra weight over the pressure roller for greater seam pressure.

2. Hot-Air Hand Tool

Hot-air hand tools enable you to weld seams in corners or confined areas, and on curbs or vertical surfaces. When purchasing a heat gun, look for:

• Lightweight and ergonomic design to reduce muscle strain while holding it in various positions, or for extended periods of time.
• Heat-protection tube to avoid accidental burns.
• Overlap, or slot, welding nozzle attachment—these are specifically designed for welding two pieces of overlapped material.

3. Hand Pressure Roller

When welding with a hot-air hand tool, you’ll need a hand pressure roller to evenly press the heated material together and form a strong bond. Make sure your roller is:

• Made of silicone to ensure consistent pressure is applied despite surface inconsistencies.
• Approximately three inches wide for greater surface area coverage.

4. Wire Brush

When welding plastic materials, it is likely that some of the plastic will stick to the welder’s nozzle. A build up of this plastic can restrict airflow and potentially damage the heating element or the tool itself. Use a stainless steel or brass wire brush to scrape away the melted-on plastic while it is still hot, to keep your equipment in peak operating condition.

5. Generator

Poor power supply can impact a hot-air welder’s heat output, which can lead to inconsistent seam welds. For this reason, when possible, avoid relying on the building’s power outlets, and instead utilize a power generator.

To determine the generator power capacity you need, consider the electrical requirements of the tools being used and how may of these tools are operated simultaneously. Make sure the generator you select is available with a dolly cart for easy maneuvering. If possible, also get a hoisting kit, to simplify lifting the generator to the roof.

6. Extension Cords

Invest in extension cords to avoid having to repeatedly interrupt work to relocate or change your power source. Roofing power cords should offer the current carrying capacity required by your welder—for example, a 240-Volt automatic walk welder needs a 50 Amp/ 250 volt cord. The cord should also be:

• Grounded
• 10 gauge 3 wire
• 100 feet or less in length 

Bonus: A Tensiometer

Tensiometers are seam-weld testing machines that measure the peel, tensile and shear forces a seam can withstand. They are ideal to have on a job site as environmental conditions (e.g. moisture, ambient temperature, sunlight and wind) can affect the heat, speed and pressure settings needed to create a strong seam weld. By using a tensiometer on a test weld you can be sure your welder is properly configured, and that your welding results are up to standard.

Additional Resource:

• Design and Installation Tips for Single-Ply Roofing Systems from Roofing Contractor Magazine

• It’s durable—linoleum can last 30-40 years.
• It’s “green”—linoleum is made of all natural substances, is biodegradable and is toxin free.

If you seam-weld linoleum floors in heavy-traffic locations like commercial buildings, restaurants and schools, this post will help you select the tools and equipment you need to create professional, long-lasting linoleum floor seams.

Linoleum Floor Welding Process

The linoleum heat-welding process is similar to that of PVC floor coverings, with a couple small differences—namely the type of welding rod used and width of the groove needed. For a good overview of these differences and a quick refresher on linoleum floor installation, check out this step-by-step guide from Floor Covering Installer.

Tools Needed for Linoleum Seam Welding

When seam welding a linoleum floor, you’ll need the following:

Hand groover—A hand groover with a sharp blade is necessary to make “U” or “V” shaped welding-rod grooves along the seam of two adjoining linoleum pieces. Hand groovers are ideal for short seams, design work and hard-to-reach areas. Have a reserve of replacement blades available because the blade’s edge will dull with frequent use, making it difficult to cut through the linoleum.

Automatic groover—To groove long, straight seams, use an automatic groover. These machines are designed to guide themselves down a seam, creating straight grooves at consistent depths and widths. Make sure your automatic groover includes a fan and dust bag to capture dust particles, and an adjustable guide wheel so it can fully lie in a variety of seam depths.

Hot-air hand tool—A hot-air hand tool—like the Leister TRIAC S—serves two purposes in linoleum seam welding:

1. Hot-air hand tools are ideal for welding seams over short distances, along edges and in hard-to-reach areas, as well as for detail work. When selecting a hot-air hand tool, make sure it can produce the temperature needed to plasticize the welding rod (typically between 572 and 842°F), and that it comes with the appropriate nozzle (as described below).
2. They can also be used to warm a linoleum surface and relax the material, making the hand-grooving process easier. This will help to slow dulling of the groover blade and keep the blade from clogging with hard linoleum chips.

Speed welding nozzle—Use a speed-welding nozzle (pictured at right) with your hot-air hand tool to weld a rod into the linoleum seam. This type of nozzle simultaneously heats both the linoleum surface and welding rod, softening both to the point that they can be bonded together. The nozzle’s tip is designed to apply light pressure to the rod to ensure it fills the bottom of the seam.

Automatic hot-air welder—For long, straight seams, use an automatic welder. These welders produce consistent seam welds over long distances. They guide themselves along a seam, while simultaneously heating and applying the rod. Look for an automatic welder with a digital display for greater control over heat output, and a wall switch to stop the machine when it hits a vertical surface.

• Roll feeder—Some automatic welders are available with a roll feeder. This accessory attaches to the welder and holds a spool of rod so it can spin freely. As the welder travels down the seam, the rod is pulled into the machine. This frees you to more closely monitor the machine’s progress and quickly make any necessary adjustments. 

Skiving tools—For skiving, you’ll need a quarter-moon knife and trimming plate (pictured at right). Purchase an angled quarter-moon knife to allow more room for your hand while still laying the knife flush to the floor. Also invest in a knife safety pouch to protect yourself and your team from being cut, and to protect the blade from getting dinged. 

For more information about these tools, visit our Leister flooring section, or contact IHS’ Leister certified technicians. 

Using a hot-air gun can help you achieve a professional wrap finish, even in those hard-to-weld areas. Heat relaxes the material, which makes it more pliable and gives you the opportunity to stretch and adhere the wrap to the vehicle surface without damaging the material or distorting any graphics.

Specifically, you can use hot-air guns to:

Remove wrinkles—As vinyl is applied to the surface of a vehicle, inevitably wrinkling will occur, especially under wheel wells or around curves. Applying light heat to these areas will get rid of smaller wrinkles, and allow the wrap to be smoothed and securely adhered in place.

Apply wrap to body contours—Some vehicles have designer contours along the side, hood and/or trunk. In these situations, applying heat to the vinyl wrap over the contour will allow it to stretch without warping, ensuring a smooth application.

Apply wrap to channels or seams—Most vehicles have some form of channels, or seams where two surfaces meet, for example: doors, protruding wheel wells, hoods, bumpers and handles. Using a channel applicator and heat from a hot-air gun, you can stretch the vinyl wrap so it lines these edges and gaps, and avoid having to cut the wrap or apply a different piece.

Selecting the Proper Hot-Air Gun

When purchasing a hot-air gun for vehicle wraps, keep the following attributes in mind:

• Lightweight—The vehicle wrap process takes time and involves applying heat at a variety of angles. Choose a light hot-air gun to avoid muscle fatigue.
• Low vibrations—Vibrating hot-air guns can also tire you out, as you try to keep the gun steady. Select a heat source that is built to limit vibrations.
• Digital display—While not essential, a digital display will give you more visible control over the hot-air temperature, and help you maintain a consistent heat output for better results. 
• Compact design—At times, you may need to get the heat gun into confined spaces, such as under a wheel well or between handlebars. The more compact your gun is, the easier it will be to apply heat to hard-to-reach areas.
• Sufficient heat output—Different types of plastic materials become pliable at different temperatures. Make sure the hot-air gun you choose can generate enough heat for all the materials with which you work. This information can be found on the material packaging, or through discussions with a hot-air gun distributor.

What else do you consider when purchasing a hot-air gun for vehicle wraps? 

If you’d like additional support in selecting the proper hot-air gun, contact one of IHS’ service representatives at 1-800-635-0384 or info@ihshotair.com.

Following is a quick guide to understand your power needs, purchase a voltage tester, test your power supply, and fix power issues.

Determine Power Needs

The first thing to do is find the voltage required by your hot-air tool. This can typically be found on the tool's label or within the owner’s manual.

As you test the power source, this will be the minimum voltage required for optimal performance. Anything less, and the tool's performance will suffer.

Purchase a Voltage Tester

To test your power supply, you’ll need a voltage tester. These lightweight, handheld devices range in price from $10 to a couple hundred dollars, and can be purchased at most hardware stores, including Lowe’s, Home Depot or Sears. When selecting a voltage tester, keep the following requirements in mind:

• Registers Alternating Current (AC)—The voltage tester should register AC, as this is what powers most homes and businesses. If it registers both AC and DC, make sure you use the AC setting. 
• Probes Not Clamps—Purchase a voltage tester with probes (pictured above), instead of the type with clamps (seen here). The probes are better for testing power outlets; clamps are designed for testing power flowing through a wire.
• Longer Probes—Most voltage testers come with 1/2-inch probes, which can be challenging to use on 220 volt outlets. You should purchase one with probes that are 1-2 inches in length. 

Test Voltage

Using a voltage tester is easy. Simply insert the red probe into one of the outlet receptacles, and the black probe into the other. The tester will show the power output on a digital display, or illuminate a light next to a voltage marking on the device.

Please Note: When testing power, wear insulated gloves to protect against electrical shock. Also avoid performing this test around standing water or in the rain.

If the output shown on the voltage tester is less than what is required by the hot-air tool, too little power will be supplied to the heating element, which in turn will not get hot enough to produce the required heat output.

How to Resolve Power Issues

Generators

If your generator is producing weak power output, you’ll need to contact your distributor or the manufacturer to troubleshoot the issues and determine what fixes, if any, can be made.

House Power (wall outlets) 

If you’re using house power, you have several options:

• Invest in a generator that can produce the power needed. This is recommended for those professionals that work at multiple locations and often need to tap into house power, which can vary in capacity and consistency.
• Purchase a buck-boost transformer, which can be plugged into an outlet and automatically make small adjustments to alternating current to help maintain a consistent power output.
• Contact a certified electrician to examine the electrical system. A professional may be able to safely boost power output.

If the Power Source Checks Out

If your voltage tester indicates the proper output, but you are still having trouble with your performance, the problem may be a part malfunction. Contact IHS’ service center for support. 

Following are instructions on how to set heat, speed and air volume, and operate the UNIFLOOR E.

Setting heat, speed and air volume

Using the digital display and three potentiometer dials (on diagram—16, 17, 18), you can set:

• Welding speed—ft./min. 
• Air flow—% 
• Air temperature—°F 

The values needed to produce a strong plastic-rod weld will vary depending on the plastic material being welded, as well as environmental factors, like humidity, ambient temperature, and sunlight. Before each use, run a practice weld on scrap material to ensure you have the correct settings. Once you’re confident the machine is properly configured, it is time to begin your weld.

Operating Instructions

1. Move the UNIFLOOR E into position over the flooring material seam.
2. Feed the welding rod into the welding rod guide tube (20) and pull the rod under the welding rod pressure roller (6). Make sure the rod sits within the seam under the pressure roller. 
3. Align the guide roller (21) with the seam.
4. Lift the swivel lever (19) up until it stops and then push it toward the machine. This lever controls the hot air blower (3) and nozzle (4) and will move them into position behind the welding rod. Please Note: When working with linoleum, make sure to lower the cover (28) over the welding nozzle to restrict airflow. Linoleum can burn when exposed to high heat for too long.)
5. Once the blower is in place, the UNIFLOOR E will begin moving automatically.
6. As the UNIFLOOR E moves along the seam, feed the welding rod into the welding rod guide tube (20). The machine will pull the rod in by itself so don’t force it. (Leister offers a rod de-reeler accessory that attaches to the welder and feeds the rod automatically, which is ideal for longer welds. Speak to one of our service representatives for more details.)
7. The guide roller (21) is designed to lie in the seam and steer the welder. Watch to make sure it does not veer off course. If it does, use the swivel lever to move the nozzle away from the welding rod and up into lock position. The welder will stop automatically, at which point you can set it back on track.
8. After the weld is complete, use the swivel lever (19) to slide the nozzle away from the machine and up into lock position. Note: The UNIFLOOR E is equipped with a wall switch-off (9), which will shut off the drive and heater when it comes into contact with the wall.
9. When your welding project is complete, turn the red air temperature potentiometer (18) to zero, but allow the airflow to continue. This will gradually cool down the heating element, prolonging its life.
10. Once the machine is cool (approx. 3 minutes), it is safe to shut off the tool using the main power switch (14) and disconnect the plug from the main power supply.

If you have any questions on how to operate the UNIFLOOR E, or are looking for service and support, please contact our authorized Leister Support Center.

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Information is intended as a guide only, and should be used by individuals familiar with the Leister UNIFLOOR E features, functionality and electrical components. IHS is not responsible for injury or equipment damage that may result from operator negligence. 

Prior to setting up, operating or performing maintenance on your Leister product, be sure to read through all safety warnings and cautions contained within the product-operating manual. If you have any questions, need assistance or would like a product demo, contact the IHS service center at 800-635-0384.

1. Provide Proper Air Supply

The LHS 60 must be paired with one of Leister’s blowers, such as the ROBUST, SILENCE, ASO or AIRPACK. As described later in this post, blower airflow will have a direct impact on the LHS 60’s heat output.

Airflow through the LHS 60 should never drop below 300 l/min., nor exceed a temperature of 176°F. If either of these instances occurs, you’ll risk overheating or damaging the heater, or even starting a fire.

Finally, when working in dusty environments, the LHS 60 must be fitted with an air filter to keep dust and contaminants from restricting airflow or damaging the heating element coil. When working in a particularly dusty environment—for example with metal, electronically charged or damp dust—special filters must be used.

We recommend working with an authorized Leister representative to make sure that you pair the LHS 60 with the proper blower for your process requirements and environmental conditions. 

2. Identify a Good Location

When installing the LHS 60, make sure to put the heater in an area free of mechanical vibrations, where it will not shake during operation as this can loosen or break the tool. Also, don’t place it next to heat-sensitive mechanisms or flammable substances as this may cause damage or a fire.

To ensure you have adequate space for the LHS 60, below are its main size dimensions. For a more detailed diagram of all LHS 60 dimensions, please contact us.  

• Length from the tip of heating element pipe (6) to the blow-in socket (3)—14.31 in.
• Power module (4) width—4.56 in.
• Power module length—6.51 in.
• Power module height—5.37 in.
• Heater tube pipe (6) width—3.46 in.
• Heater tube pipe length—6.61 in.

3. Account for Heat Output Variables

The LHS 60 System heat setting can be controlled internally using the potentiometer dial (8) on the top of the heater, or externally using the CSS, CSS Easy, or a programmable logic controller (PLC). When setting the heat output, make sure to configure it in tandem with an external blower as the LHS 60 does not have an internal blower to feed air through it.

Note that there are three variables that will affect the actual heat output:

• Environmental factors—including ambient temperature, wind and moisture.
• Nozzle opening width—the smaller the opening, the hotter the air-stream temperature
• Airflow through the heater—as shown in the graph below, the greater the airflow, the lower the maximum temperature output.

To ensure proper temperature settings, run several tests in a live environment and adjust as needed prior to proceeding.

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If you have any questions on how to integrate the LHS 60 into your industrial process, or would like to set up an online demo, please contact our authorized Leister Support Center.

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Information is intended as a guide only, and should be used by individuals familiar with the Leister LHS 60 features, functionality and electrical components. IHS is not responsible for injury or equipment damage that may result from operator negligence. 

Prior to setting up, operating or performing maintenance on your Leister product, be sure to read through all safety warnings and cautions contained within the product-operating manual. If you have any questions, need assistance or would like a product demo, contact the IHS service center at 800-635-0384.

In this type of plastic welding, the welder uses a hot-air tool to simultaneously heat a welding rod and a surface material of a similar plastic type. The two are then pressed together, and form a strong bond as they cool.

Following are the factors that can impact plastic rod weld quality. Understanding how these come together, plus practice, can help you get the perfect welding seams consistently.

Factors that can impact a weld

There are three essential elements to create a strong weld—heat, speed and pressure. If one of these is off, the weld quality will suffer.

Heat

Different types of plastics have different weld temperatures. Refer to the material packaging to find its recommended welding temperature, and set your hot-air tool accordingly.

However, environmental factors, such as ambient temperature, wind, humidity and moisture, can affect the amount of heat needed to create a strong weld, so keep in mind that the actual ideal weld temperature may vary.

Also, take into account the width of the nozzle you are using—the narrower the nozzle opening, the hotter the air stream.

Speed

The speed at which you apply the welding rod to the plastic surface will vary depending on weld temperature and the type of plastic. Moving too quickly won’t give the hot air enough time to properly melt both the rod and surface material. Conversely, moving too slowly can overheat or burn the plastic, weakening its structure and resulting bond.

Pressure 

The welding rod and surface material need to be pressed together firmly to ensure that enough shared surface area comes into contact. If too much pressure is applied, it can cause the welding rod to flatten, potentially causing an uneven or weak weld. If there is too little pressure, not enough surface area will bond, leading to a weak weld. 

As you can see, you need the right balance of heat, speed and pressure to create a strong weld. For this reason, we highly recommend that you always perform a test weld on scrap materials prior to working on your finished pieces. This will help to ensure you have the proper weld settings and technique for the job and conditions at hand.

Other Factors that Impact Rod Welding

In addition to heat, speed and pressure, there are a number of other factors that can impact weld quality:

• Materials used—Different plastic types will not bond together
• Oily or greasy surfaces
• Surface dust, shavings or notches
• Ambient temperature
• Wind
• Humidity
• Moisture (e.g. condensation, rain, snow)
• Sunlight exposure

What does a proper weld look like?

When done properly, a weld should have the following three characteristics:

• Consistent Bead—The applied welding rod should be a consistent height and width, and have the same arched shape all along the weld.
• Small Ridge—A small ridge should appear on the rod and run parallel to the surface being welded to.
• Slight Wash—The bottom section of the rod should slightly melt into the plastic surface.

If any of these characteristics are missing, the bond is likely weak and the material should be rewelded.

Signs of a Weak Weld and Possible Solutions:

Just as there are specific characteristics of a quality weld, there are signs that your weld is weak. Following are some signs to look out for and how to correct the problem:

Poor Bond is Formed / Welding Rod Does Not Stick

• Cause: Not enough heat and/or pressure was applied, or contaminants stopped the plastic materials from bonding.
• Solution: Decrease weld speed, increase the hot-air temperature, and/or apply more pressure. Also, check that the surface area is clean and free of contaminants.

Uneven or Flattened Weld Bead

• Cause: Inconsistent, or too much, pressure was applied to the welding rod.
• Solution: Make sure your weld speed—the rate in which the rod is fed into the seam, joint or groove—and the pressure are consistent. Also, relieve any unnecessary stress on the rod, such as too much downward pressure or pulling, which can stretch it.

Burned Welding Rod or Surface Material

• Cause: Too much heat is being applied.
• Solution: Increase your welding speed and/or decrease the hot-air temperature.

Warped Welding Rod or Surface Material

• Cause: Too much heat is being applied. 
• Solution: Increase your welding speed and/or decrease the hot-air temperature.

Rod Melts / No Ridge, Wash or Bead is Visible

• Cause: Too much heat is being applied. 
• Solution: Increase your welding speed and/or decrease the hot-air temperature.

How do you check your plastic rod weld seam quality? Please share your thoughts in the comments below.

There are a four welding shoes available for the WELDPLAST S2, each designed for a specific type of joint or seam weld.

• Blank Welding Shoe (upper left) — Flat cross section used to create flat, even welds.  
• Fillet-Seam Welding Shoe (upper right) — Triangular cross section used to weld overlapping pieces or two surfaces that meet at a 90° angle.
• V-Seam Welding Shoe (lower left) — Flat cross section with a V-shaped extension that allows for V- or X-seam welds.
• Corner Welding Shoe (lower right) — Coned cross section that is angled to a point for corner-seam welds.

Following are the simple instructions on how to quickly change a Leister WELDPLAST S2 welding shoe.

Note Before You Begin

When changing a welding shoe between uses, make sure the tool and nozzle are still hot. The heat makes the plastic welding rod pliable, making it easier to remove the welding shoe from the nozzle.

Be sure to clean both the nozzle and welding shoe of any leftover plastic (see step 2 below for instructions) as built-up plastic can impact the shape and consistency of the welding rod during a weld, or block it all together.

Wear protective gloves and eye protection while cleaning and changing a shoe to avoid burns from the extruder or melted plastic.

How to Change and Adjust a WELDPLAST S2 Welding Shoe

To change a welding shoe, simply use the following instructions:

1. Remove the welding shoe (8) with the welding shoe holder (34) by unfastening the clamp screws (35) from the extruder nozzle (32).
2. Use a stainless steel wire brush to clean the extruder nozzle and the welding shoe. Make sure to do this in a motion away from your body as melted plastic can hit your skin and cause burns.
3. Check that the extruder nozzle is still tightly screwed into the heat gun.
4. Remove the welding shoe from the holder by unfastening the fastening screws (33).  
5. Based on the seam to be welded, attach the a new welding shoe to the welding shoe holder with the fastening screws.
6. Before starting your weld, make sure both the welding shoe and welding shoe holder are securely tightened in place with the clamp screws.

The WELDPLAST S2 welding shoe can be turned 360° to align with the direction of the seam. To turn the welding shoe:

1. Loosen the clamp screws (35).
2. Rotate the welding shoe (8) to the direction you need.
3. Once done, retighten the clamp screws till the welding shoe is securely in place.

Angled adaptors of 45 (pictured right) and 90 degrees are available for purchase. 

If you have any questions on how to change your WELDPLAST S2’s welding shoe, or would like to set up an online demo, please contact our authorized Leister Support Center.

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Information is intended as a guide only, and should be used by individuals familiar with the Leister WELDPLAST S2 features, functionality and parts. IHS is not responsible for injury or equipment damage that may result from operator negligence.

Prior to setting up, operating or performing maintenance on your Leister product, be sure to read through all safety warnings and cautions contained within the product operating manual. If you have any questions, need assistance or would like a product demo, contact the IHS service center at 800-635-0384.