Inside MokaJade

Embrace scroll shelf brackets-The Reveal

2011-10-12T12:40:00.000-07:00

Hi Everyone!

Well...here it is the finished shelf brackets! The pictures really doesn't do it justice. Hopefully my client will enjoy it a long time to come!

Thanks for joining me!

Roshaan

Embrace scroll shelf brackets-Part5 final

2011-10-10T21:21:00.000-07:00

Hello Everyone!

Well this is it...the final part to this project! The next part will be when I reveal the finished product! So please make sure to return for the reveal.

After a trying glue-up of the bracket parts, I cut some slots in the miters for splines. These splines will further strengthen the miters. I cut the slots using a shop made sled which helps me slide the brackets safely over the running saw blade.

Gluing the splines in place. I used some of the left over oak and sized them to fit the slots exactly.

Trimming the splines flush using my appropriately named flush-trim saw. I love this saw!

The most exciting part is applying the first coat of finishing oil and seeing the wood just come alive (bracket on right)! Here I'm applying a few coats of a durable Tung oil finish.

I will give the oil finish a few days to cure and then I will send it off to my client.

Please check back in for the reveal!

Thanks for looking!

Roshaan

Embrace scroll shelf brackets-Part4

2011-10-05T23:24:00.000-07:00

Hi Everyone!

Well we're almost there! Today I have been busy attaching the hanging hardware and routing a small cove profile on the edges of the mitered parts.

Using a mortising jig to rout out the exact shape of the blind keyhole hanger I'll be using to hang the brackets . I have to place two hangers for added strength and therefore the two will have to line up precisely . I added a couple of stops to the jig to ensure perfect alignment of the two hangers.

The freshly cut recesses for the hangers. Now all I have to do is drill some clearance holes for the heads of the screws.

At the drill press equipped with a 3/8" diameter drill bit, drilling the clearance holes for the head of the screws .

Routing a small cove profile to the edges of the mitered parts. This will complement the scrolls quite nicely and it also breaks up the hard square edges of the mitered parts. Here I have butted two boards together to create a more stable base for the palm router.

A close-up of the cove profile.

Thanks for looking!

Roshaan

Embrace scroll shelf brackets-Part3

2011-10-04T22:45:00.000-07:00

Hi Everyone!

Welcome back for part 3 of this project! I must apologize for the delay in posting, but I have a couple of projects on the go and this past weekend I gave a woodworking demo for a Culture Days event which was organized by the Richmond Arts Council. It was my first demo and I couldn't believe how much work goes into such an event. I had a wonderful time talking to people about woodworking and it just made my day to see them actually listening :) Anyway back to the project!

Just starting my first few cuts on the scroll saw. The oak is really hard and tends to burn easily. To prevent my cuts from suffering this fate I simply placed a few strips of clear packing tape over my pattern. As the cuts are being made the heat generated from the blade will melt the tape thus acting as a lubricant for the blade.

Continuing to cut out the rest. It was neat to see the negative scrolls coming out of the cuts. Hmmm ...I think I will do something with those...unless my client would like them as a souvenir :)

All the finished parts of the bracket ready for a dry-fit. It is taking shape quite nicely.

That's it for now folks! We're almost there so please come back for the completion.

Thanks for looking!

Roshaan

Embrace scroll shelf brackets-Part2

2011-09-29T01:12:00.000-07:00

Hi Everyone,

I have finally started to cut out all the parts I will need for the two shelf brackets. They consist of two mitered parts for the brackets and a larger blank for the scroll design. I had to make sure that all parts are cut true and square for the shelf the sit level on the brackets. When you start with nice square parts, the rest of the project will be a joy.

Checking to see if all the parts are square before I attach the paper patterns

Not only do I make sure that the wood parts are square I also have to make sure that the patterns are cut square to align to the wood blank

To join the scroll to the mitered brackets I use dowels in the appropriate sections for added strength. I use a dowel jig to guide the drill bit square and centered into the wood.

The drilled dowel holes. In this case I am using 3/8" diameter dowels.

Now all I have to do is to find the position of the mating dowel holes in the bracket members. I use dowel centers to find the exact location of the holes.

I hope you will join me next time for part 3!

Thanks for looking!

Roshaan

Embrace scroll shelf brackets - Part1

2011-09-26T21:43:00.002-07:00

Hello Everyone,

I love custom work! It definitely keeps your mind ticking.

My next exciting project is a pair of scrolled shelf brackets made out of oak. My client requested that I take inspiration from a wonderful print called the "Embrace" by Gustav Klimpt which will hang across from the shelf. The print is vibrant with amazing color and wild scrolls and shapes and it's just a visual playground. I lifted a portion of the scroll from the print and gave it my own twist - no pun intended :)

I gave my client quite a few options and she chose the one pictured above. From the 1/4 scale drawings I had to enlarge the chosen pattern to a workable full scale pattern.

With every hardwood (as apposed to veneered sheet goods) project I like to acclimatize the wood to my workshop for a couple of days before I make my first cut. Keep in mind that it's coming from the lumber yard to my shop and then to my clients home - so it's travelling through various temperatures.

I have a nice wide piece of oak selected for the scroll and and a narrower board for the mitered brackets.

I can't wait to get started, so please join me next time for part 2!

Thanks for looking!

Roshaan

New Belt Buckle Series

2011-09-04T13:20:00.001-07:00

Hello Everyone!

Yes, I'm still here! Sorry for the big gap in between postings. I have been feverishly working on a series of new belt buckles and it's been quite exciting! I explore a couple new techniques in the buckle creation one of which I'm quite familiar with, i.e. bent lamination. I used bent lamination extensively as seen below in my graduation chair project from the Fine Furniture Program offered at Camosun College in Victoria, BC.
The second technique that I employ in the buckles is the use of colored epoxy resin inlays. It sounds like a difficult process but once you achieve the right mix and color it is actually quite a fun process. Now I'll share a few pictures of what I have been up to these past few weeks. So hope you enjoy!

PS...these belt buckles are available for purchase at http://www.etsy.com/shop/mokajadedesigns

Chou Chair-grad project a true labor of love!

The curve adds dimension to an otherwise flat piece of wood.

The buckle back hardware is attached using epoxy and is also screwed in place for added strength

Thanks for looking!

Roshaan

Custom Orchid Picture Frames - The Reveal

2011-07-25T12:30:00.000-07:00

Hi Everyone,

Here are the completed frames! I think they turned out great! The mat that the client will use will be different since she wanted to match the mat to the photos that will eventually live in them. A lighter color mat will make the interior orchid stand out more. This is just an idea of how the vertical will balance with the horizontal. I hope she enjoys them for a long time to come.

Thank you for joining me for this exciting project! I hope you will join me next time for more adventures in woodworking :)

Roshaan

Custom Orchid Picture Frames - Part final

2011-07-18T20:55:00.000-07:00

Hello everyone,

Well this is it folks! The final part of the custom orchid frames. I had a great time with these and I hope my client will enjoy it just as much.

Dipping the orchid in a rich walnut dye. Dipping the piece allows all the edges of
all the cutouts to be stained evenly. I had to make a shop made container to hold the dye,
since the piece was so large.

To get rid of all the excess stain, I simply place it face up onto some shop towels. This also prevents
excess stain from pooling and drying up in the corners of the cutouts.

I also stain the back of the frame and make sure to stain the interior orchid.

After the stain has dried, I get the pieces ready to be glued. To ensure perfect alignment,
I made a simple right angle alignment jig.

To finish off the frame, I veneer the edges. I simply stain the edges afterward to complete the frame.
To protect the frame I apply 3 coats of a spray polyurethane finish.

This completes the project. I hope you will join me for the reveal.

Thanks for looking!

Roshaan

Custom Orchid Picture Frames - Part 4

2011-07-13T00:17:00.001-07:00

Hi Everyone,

Welcome back to part 4! We're almost there!

Here I am getting ready to rout out a recess for the key hole picture hanger. I choose to use one hanger
instead of two since it will be easier for the client to hang on the wall. I made a template out of mdf to get
a nice tight fitting recess.

The routed out recess...we're not done with it just yet.

The recess cleaned up with the template removed.

To complete the recess, I drill some clearance holes for the head of the screw when hung on the wall.

Thanks for looking!

Roshaan

Custom Orchid Picture Frames - Part 3

2011-07-12T11:02:00.000-07:00

Hello,

Welcome back for part 3! I am having so much fun with these frames!

Now that I have cut the interior orchid and the window of the frame, I carefully remove the top cut-out with
a putty knife. This is a slow process, but it is the safest way I can think of.

I then use the table saw and miter gauge to cut miters on the back parts of the frame. These parts will help to provide clearance of the picture turns

I glue the mitered parts to the back of the frame, making sure to use cauls to fully adhere the parts. To make the glue up
go smoothly, I first glue each opposing corner, then complete the glue-up by bringing these two corners together at a later stage.

A detail shot of the miters.

Thanks for looking!

Roshaan

Custom Orchid Picture Frames - Part 2

2011-07-07T20:54:00.001-07:00

Hi Everyone,

Welcome back for part 2 of my newest project!

I attach the top cut-out to the bottom part of the frame using double stick tape. I use some simple right angle alignment jigs to perfectly align the parts.

I rout a recess on the back of the frame assembly where the interior orchid is situated. I do this so that the orchid will sit directly on the glass. I then fill in the recess with shop scraps to make it level with the back.

I then use the scroll saw to carefully cut out the orchid and the window of the frame.

Using an mdf template made to fit the frame precisely, I rout the recess or rabbet on the back of the frame which will house the glass, matted picture and back panel.

Thanks for looking!

Roshaan

Custom Orchid Picture Frames - Part 1

2011-07-05T00:25:00.002-07:00

Hi Everyone,

I have an exciting project to share with you! I have been asked to make a pair of 18 inch square picture frames based on my orchid design. The frames will be hung side by side on the wall and one frame will hold a vertical photo while the other will hold a horizontal one. I had to come up with a way to balance the vertical with the horizontal within a square frame (the original design is rectangular and it holds a 4 x 6 photo) so I tweaked my design a bit to accommodate this challenge.

My proposal to the client showing the two frames side by side and the full size pattern in background.
The pattern will be temporarily bonded to the top part of the frame.

Using the shop made crosscut sled with a stop block clamped to fence to cut all parts true and square.

Using the drill press to drill blade entry holes for the scroll saw blade. Before I did this however I
taped a scrap backer to prevent tear-out on the back of the cut out.

At the scroll saw cutting out the pattern. Since this is a large piece I have to take extra care with my cuts.

The almost completed cut-out with the scrap backer removed. I will temporarily attach the cut-out to the bottom part of the frame to cut out the window and the last orchid.

Please join me next time to see the frames come together!

Thanks for looking!

Roshaan

Chic country style cabinet

2011-06-19T20:05:00.000-07:00

Hello,

I apologize for my gross neglect for the past few weeks! However, I am back now and I have a few photos to share with you of my newest project. The project is completed and hopefully happily sitting in my clients home. I do have reveal photos to share, but I would like to hear from you if you would like to see some in progress photos. So, if you do please let me know :)

So I present to you... the chic country style cabinet! Enjoy!

Raven inlay Jewelry and Make-up Boxes-The Reveal

2011-03-22T11:09:00.004-07:00

Hello,

Well, here it is! The finished inlay boxes. It was so much fun to construct. I'm hoping to do more marquetry in the near future.

The jewelry box.

The make up box.

Thanks for joining me!

Roshaan

Raven inlay Jewelry and Make-up Boxes-Part Final

2011-03-20T23:08:00.004-07:00

Hello,

Well, this is it! The final installment of the duo of boxes. In this part I will be applying a finish and putting on the final touches.

The finish I'm applying is a tough wearing tung oil. It also gives the walnut a warm finish and makes the grain really come alive.

After the finish has cured for a couple of days, it is now safe to handle without getting finger smudges on the fresh finish. I apply a rich brown felt to the bottom of the jewelry box and the upper tray. The make up box will simply have a nicely finished wooden interior. I also reattach all the brass hardware to finish everything off.

I really enjoyed this project and I hope you did too!

Please stay tuned for the reveal.

Thanks for looking!

Raven inlay Jewelry and Make-up Boxes-Part 12

2011-03-12T13:18:00.004-08:00

Hello,

In this part I will be installing the lock on the jewelry box. This takes precise measurements to ensure that everything lines up for the lock to function properly.

Before I tackle the lock however, I have to make sure that all the elements are in place, especially on the interior of the box. I make sure to glue the wooden risers in place first. Since it is awkward to use any kind of clamps to clamp the pieces in place, a very simple trick is to use thin strips of hardwood and flex it so that it wedges the parts and acts as a clamping mechanism.

After the glue dries I am now ready for the lock. This lock is known as a full mortise lock, since I have to cut a deep mortise for the locking mechanism to sit in. I made a simple drilling guide to help me locate the ends of the brass plate and the mechanism. The nice thing about this jig is that I can just line up the center line to the center of the base and the lid. This ensures that both brass plates line up perfectly.

Now it's just a matter of defining the edges of the shallow mortise with a marking gauge and using a palm router to clear away the bulk of the material. I use a chisel to clean up the rest.

After I cleaned up the shallow mortise for the brass plate I can now cut the deep mortise for the locking mechanism. I do this by drilling overlapping holes using the drill press. I then use a sharp chisel to square all sides of the mortise. This operation also applies to the lid, but the only difference is the depth of the mortise. The lid only requires a shallow mortise to ensure clearance for the arm of the lock.

Here I am installing both brass plates. Also notice that I have drilled and shaped the keyhole.

Please join me next time for the finale of the box duo project!

Thanks for looking!

Roshaan

Raven inlay Jewelry and Make-up Boxes-Part 11

2011-03-12T13:14:00.005-08:00

Hello,

This part is the continuation of the upper tray construction. I will be focusing on the glue up of the trays and the reinforcement of the mitered joints with splines. So please join me!

Before I cut the half-lap joints in part 10, I first cut tiny tenons on the ends of the dividers. I then put each divider in place to determine the location of each half-lap joint. The tenons are easily done on the table saw with the miter gauge and stop block.

Before I do any glue up, I do a dry run first to prevent any headaches while I'm in the process of gluing the piece. Now is a good time to work out any kinks in your gluing operation. With this glue-up I determined that I first need to put the divider assemblies in one corner of the tray and then put the bottom panel in place at the same time. Then it's simply a matter of wrapping the other corner parts around the dividers and bottom panel. Of course before I did any of this I made sure to place some clear packing tape on all the mitered joints.

I use a band clamp to snugly bring everything together. This is a great clamp for a mitered box construction.

Here I am using my nifty (do people still say that?) table saw spline sled to cut the slots for the hardwood splines.

I glue the walnut splines in place, but before I do that I check the fit of each one. After the glue dries, I use a flush trim saw to cut off the waste. I then sand everything flush.

We are almost to the finish line! So please come back for the last few parts.

Thanks for looking!

Roshaan

Raven inlay Jewelry and Make-up Boxes-Part 10

2011-03-12T12:26:00.005-08:00

Hello,

It's all about making the top trays in the next two parts. I will be cutting stopped grooves on my little Dremel router table and half-lap joints on the table saw. So, here we go!

I love my Dremel tool! It is so versatile and can do pretty much everything bigger machinery can do, but on a much smaller scale. It is perfect for model makers, home owners and for woodworkers like me. Here I have attached my Dremel tool to a router table attachment to cut the 1/8" wide stopped grooves, which will join the cross members of the tray dividers.

Here are all the tray sides layed out to better visualize how the tray and dividers will come together. This tray is meant for the jewelry box and it will have 9 equal sections for rings and things.

Here I am cutting the half lap joints on all the dividers. It is best done on the table saw with a single saw blade instead of a stacked dado set. This method will yield greater accuracy when fitting parts together.

A half-lap is basically two notches going halfway through the corresponding parts and in opposite directions.

I glue up the dividers first before I glue them to the stopped grooves in the tray sides. Now is the perfect opportunity to clean up any glue squeeze-out.

That's it for now! Please come back soon for the continuation of the tray construction.

Thanks for looking!

Roshaan

Raven inlay Jewelry and Make-up Boxes-Part 9

2011-03-12T12:22:00.006-08:00

Hi Everyone,

It's hardware time! This is a true sign that we are getting very close to the finish line. In this part I will be installing the hinges, the chains etc. and I will also start construction of the upper trays.

I usually cut the shallow mortises for the hinges using a hand held router and then square the lines with a sharp chisel. This time I'm trying something new. I'm using a router table with stop blocks on either side of the router bit, to control the length of the cut, which precisely fits the hinge leaves.

Notice that the router bit leaves a round corner? I simply use a chisel to square the corners to fit the hinge better.

I also went ahead and installed the chain to keep the lid from flopping backward. Since the box will have an upper tray, I also attached some wooden risers on the interior of the box. Notice the rabbet cut on the riser on the chain side of the box? This rabbet will act as a stop, which will prevent the tray from sliding side to side and hitting the chain.

The trays will have simple mitered corners with splines for reinforcement. At the table saw with the blade tilted at 45 degrees to cut the miters.

A closeup of the grooves I cut to house the bottom panel of the tray.

Please join me next time for part 10 when I will be constructing the dividers of the trays.

Thanks for looking!

Roshaan

Raven inlay Jewelry and Make-up Boxes-Part 8

2011-03-12T12:18:00.004-08:00

Hello Everyone!

The boxes are really taking shape now. I will continue with the glue-up and separate the lid from the bottom in this part.

As soon as each corner is glued and any waste cleaned up, I can insert the top inlaid panel and the bottom panel in the grooves.

Now all I have to do is spread some glue on the remaining corner joints and bring the two halves together. Notice how I have the glue blocks already taped in place so I'm not scrambling around later to find some. Organization is truly important in any glue-up

The box snugly in clamps and just waiting for a cure :)

After the glue has dried and the sides cleaned up, I cut the lid apart from the body of the box. I make sure not to cut all the way through to prevent the parts from binding and causing a safety hazard. I just leave a sliver of wood between the lid and the body and use a hand saw to complete the separation.

At the bench using a sanding base to flatten the top edges of the box and lid.

Well that's all for now folks! Please stay tuned for part 9!

Thanks for looking!

Roshaan

Raven inlay Jewelry and Make-up Boxes-Part 7

2011-03-12T12:12:00.007-08:00

Hi All,

Well, I am quite pleased with how my first attempt at marquetry turned out. I think I will be doing quite a few more in the future :)

After I successfully completed the raven inlay, I cut a substrate made out of a good quality Baltic birch plywood. I like to use this material for a substrate, because it is very flat, without prominent grain (which could potentially telescope through the thin veneer) and very stable. I elevate the whole assembly by using shop-made t-stands underneath. These come in very handy for panel glue-ups or any glue-up for that matter. The elevation just allows for easier clamping.

After the veneered panel has cured, I use a sharp utility knife to trim the excess flush.

Now it is just a matter of cutting the panel to size using my shop-made crosscut sled on my table saw. This sled gives you very accurate results.

I'm sure everyone has seen me use this method of gluing difficult joinery. It is because there are many gluing surfaces to these dovetails and since the wood glue dries very quickly, it makes for a tricky glue-up when 4 corners are involved. Therefore, I prefer to glue the box in stages.

After each corner has cured, I use a block plane to trim the waste flush.

Please join me next time to see how the boxes come together!

We're almost there!

Thanks for looking!

Roshaan

Raven inlay Jewelry and Make-up Boxes-Part 6

2011-02-28T21:44:00.006-08:00

Hello Everyone!

I think this part is quite exciting since I have not done any inlay or more specifically marquetry before. I have not used one power tool or woodworking machine to do this operation! The only tool that was mechanical was my pencil :) It is strictly done by hand using only a very sharp utility knife, some carbon paper and of course my pencil. Let's begin!

I make sure I have a clean copy of the design...in this case the raven design. I first make sure to make small registration marks to easily align the drawing at each stage. I start by transferring the outline of the raven onto some nicely figured cherry veneer by placing carbon paper under the drawing. I carefully cut out the outline of the raven making sure to keep the knife perpendicular to the surface of the veneer sheet. I then take some nice contrasting walnut veneer and place it behind the cutout shape. After I am happy with the placement, I tape the walnut veneer in place with a couple strips of masking tape. I carefully trace the outline by making a light scoring cut with my knife making sure not to go all the way through in one pass. I then remove the walnut veneer to complete the cut.

After I am happy with the fit of the shape I then use white glue to glue the shape in place. I use a few strips of masking tape on the back of the piece to keep everything in place. I reposition the drawing by using my registration marks to transfer details of the body into place.

Now it is just a matter of cutting out a window by following the lines and replacing the cutout with a contrasting piece using the method used earlier.

After the body is complete, I again use the registration marks to position the drawing to transfer the reeds into place. I chose a contrasting maple veneer to add some depth and interest to the piece. One trick I learned was to reinforce the back of the veneer with masking or veneer tape whenever you are dealing with fragile parts, such as the points of the tops of the reeds.

It's really starting to take shape! Just a few more reeds to go!

I think my first attempt at marquetry was a great success. I had so much fun with it, I think I might sneak in an inlay or two in all my projects from now on ;)

Please stop by next time for part 7!

Thanks for looking!

Roshaan

Raven inlay Jewelry and Make-up Boxes-Part 5

2011-02-23T18:35:00.008-08:00

Hi Everyone!

Well, the duo of boxes are really starting to take shape. Speaking of which, in this part I will shape the bottom of the boxes to add a touch of flair to the plain sides.

I start by laying out some lines and curves, first using my nifty ruler stop to mark a consistant line from the bottom edges. I then use a combination square to mark a layout line from the ends of the boards.

With an appropriate sized washer I draw on the shape of the curve. I could have made up a template, but since I only have a few pieces to work with, it was not feasible for me to spend the time. If for instance I had quite a bit to do a template would have been the better way to go.

To save time, I stack two sides together with some double sided tape, making sure that everything lines up. A great allignment tool is a simple shopmade right angle jig to make sure that everything lines up.

A scroll saw is a great tool to cut away the waste. I do make sure that I stay about 1/32" away from the layout lines. I will flush everything up later with a router.

I install a 3/8" diameter straight router bit in my router table to flush up and remove the rest of the waste. I allign the fence an appropriate distance away from the router bit to get the desired curve.

Thank you for joining me for part 5! Please make sure to stay tuned for part 6.

Thanks for looking!

Roshaan

Raven inlay Jewelry and Make-up Boxes-Part 4

2011-02-22T23:26:00.005-08:00

Hello,

Welcome back for part 4 of the duo of boxes! In this part I will be veneering the bottom piece of the make-up box and I will also cut some stopped grooves and through grooves on all box sides using only a single blade in the table saw.

Before I cut the grooves to house the bottom panel of the box, I first veneer the bottom panel to determine the width of the groove to ensure a nice snug fit. Here I use a fairly straight grained walnut veneer sheet to be glued to a baltic birch substrate. I use baltic birch because it is a high grade plywood product that is flat and stable. I wouldn't for instance use a highly figured piece of fir ply since the grain will telescope through the thin veneer sheet.

To ensure a full veneer to substrate contact I employ quite a few clamps, some thick cauls as well as beefy glue bases. I do prefer to use white glue because it has a thin glue line and it also offers a longer working time.

After the bottom piece is removed from the clamps, I simply use a sharp utility knife to cut away the excess veneer along all sides. I then measure the thickness of the piece to determine the width of the grooves to be cut on the table saw.

I make sure to cut stopped grooves on the tail boards and through grooves on the pin boards. Stopped grooves are essential to prevent unsightly holes on the outside of the box.

One negative aspect of stopped grooves is that you have to square the ends to ensure a perfect fit of the bottom panels. This is easily done with a few sharp chisels and wooden mallet.

Well that is it for part 4! Please join me next time when I will show you how to shape the bottom of the box sides to add some flair!

Thanks for looking!

Roshaan