Spices and Travel

Nepal Musings

2015-04-29T11:43:00.001-07:00

A tiny Shangri-La hidden in between the towering Himalayas and the gargantuan sub-continent, this is a land of friendly people, proud Sherpas, awe-inspiring mountain peaks, yaks and yetis. In Nepal the sounds of mantras in the remote monasteries bounce back playfully from the snow clad mountain peaks, drawing in seekers of spirituality to its mystical allure. Nepal is nirvana for the spiritual, the adventurous, the lonely souls in search of moksha.

Wait, I mentioned tiny. The biggest conundrum when travelling in Nepal is how would you fit everything in?. I have met people who have been coming back to Nepal again and again, to explore the mighty Himalayas, the picturesque towns and sit around the bonfires on a chilly night with the smiling people. When you leave, the desire to be back again lingers...

When I go back to Nepal this would have all changed. It was 25th April, 11:00 am. People slept unaware of the tragedy that was sneaking into their dreams. The quivers turned into violent trembles jolting them from their dream soaked sleep.

At the exact moment, I was coasting on the illusionary world of social media ”connecting” with friends and family. In this ephemeral world attention spans is fraction of a second. People move on from one post to another, keeping checks and balances of how many "Likes" they have got. The more the better.  Pouting lips, bared legs, tantalizing profiles, photoshopped smiles, happy babies, adorable pigs, dogs, cats, hamsters… I stand guilty as I am equally submerged in the cyber cesspool.

While I magnanimously clicked on Like on everyone's posts, hardly skimming the content, ignoring the sun streaming through my window, at that exact moment people ran helter-skelter for safety, their eyes widened with panic, the foundation of their homes and lives shaken. Their whole world crashing down as I sipped my espresso.  Families desperately searching for their loved ones as I cooed sweet nothings to my lover's video call on Skype. My friends in the small villages of Pokhara cremating their loved ones.  I had sat with them around a lively bonfire in the evening, sharing cups of chai and dhal bhat. That fire was incinerating their bodies now. I have no way of finding out if they are alive, barely alive or dead.

The mantras have taken a monstrous rhythm of powerful Vedic chants, crashing on the trembling mountains, livid. The prayer flags have not appeased the angry Gods.  I feel helpless, I feel impotent, I feel tinier than an atom. I desperately make attempts to contact people who may have some news. The tiny sliver of hope finally comes my way....

An email response from a pastor, Timothy Dahal. He has dedicated his life to the Harvest Bible Fellowship. I had reached out to hundreds of people wanting to know how I can help. The only response I received was from this man who has dedicated his life to Christ. I have been invited to visit Nepal in July.

The thought of visiting the shattered country keeps me awake at night. I wake up gasping in utter panic.  The nightmare continues as I dream of Bahadur, my Gorkha friend, choking beneath the rubbles, trying to scratch away on the stubborn pile with his khukri.

I panic as I have not told the pastor that I am not a Christian.   Would that be an issue? I belong to the 95% of Hindu population of Nepal, the persecutors of the minority. I quickly browse the HBF website. It mentions nothing about non-acceptance of the "non-believers". I will keep it under the wraps for the moment.  I break into night sweat with recurring dreams of the Swayambhunath temple crashing down and crushing me under it heavy white stones. The lilting Buddha's eyes now a slit looking on with contempt. If it is not the nightmare, then it is self doubt. Will I be able to take in the suffering of Nepalese people?  Am I just being a curious traveler? Will I be able to contribute in any way? Maybe I am not meant to have this honor? Maybe I am just a hypocrite who wants to have my share of feel-goodness? Thousands of questions flit through my brain like the incessant hum of the hummingbird.  My desperate posts on Facebook to get some valuable insights on how to help sits forlornly, with 6 paltry Likes. It has quickly become other ephemera on the walls and feeds.

I have to start looking towards my hero. The holy one-earlobed Dutchman, a naïf and optimist, a hackneyed star-crossed patron saint of unrecognized genius, art's favorite martyr. He whispers into my ears, "If you hear a voice within you say 'you cannot paint' then by all means paint, and that voice will be silenced."

Old Van Gogh and I understand each other at heart, and if we are a bit mad, what of it?

Amazonian Shaman Dona Otilia Sings an Icaro

2015-02-26T13:08:00.001-08:00

How To Make Your Own Spherical TetraLamp Shade ( Part 2 of 2 )

2014-09-12T13:04:00.001-07:00

One of the coolest DIY I have EVER SEEN! He won the

Appam and Egg Stew

2013-05-13T16:24:00.000-07:00

The double yolk did freak me out but it did not stop me from making appam and egg stew...I don't follow traditional recipe but improvise to make my life easier:-) I love appams, which are kind of rice pancakes with fluffy middle and lacy edges. I love to soak these delicious morsels in egg stew made with lots of coconut milk...labor of love and worth all the effort. Oh, BTW, make sure that the yeast you use for the batter is fresh (check the expiry date). I have gone through the pains of using old yeast and having a flat batter with no air!

2 cups rice

1 cup cooked rice (I used jasmine rice)

3/4 cup coconut milk (I love Aroyo brand, which comes in tetra-pack)

2 tsp sugar

pinch of salt

1 tsp dried yeast

1/2 tsp baking soda

1. Soak the rice overnight

2. Grind soaked rice, cooked rice, sugar, salt and coconut milk. Add little water if the batter is too thick.

3. In a bowl, add yeast and pour 1/2 cup of warm water. Mix well and leave it for 10 minutes or until you see the little fellas bubbling (yikes, they are alive!).

4. Add the batter to the yeast and the baking soda and mix it well. Let the batter ferment overnight.

I made the appams in my iron wok, which I lightly grease with olive oil. Pour around half cup of batter in the hot wok and swirl it around. The batter will slide to the center creating a thick middle and lace like trace around. Cover and cook on low flame until you see the lacy edge coming away from the pan. I ease the appams with my hands out of the wok. Serve with egg curry. Delicious...

Egg curry (my own easy version of the extravagant motta stew :-)

4 Hard boiled eggs

2 medium onions thinly sliced

2 medium potatoes chopped into chunks (I love the texture of yukon)

1 thumb size ginger finely julienned

1/2 tbsp cayenne powder, 1 tbsp coriander pd, 1 tsp cumin pd, 1 tsp turmeric (mix it in a small bowl with water to form a paste)

2 pod cardamom

1 stick cinnamon

9-10 peppercorns

4 cups coconut milk

salt to taste

Fried shallots and curry leaves for garnish

Heat oil and add the cardamom, cinnamon and peppercorns. Wait till they pop and then add the sliced onions. Sweat the onions and fry on medium flame until golden brown. Add ginger and fry for a minute. Add the spice paste and swirl the bowl with little water and add it to the wok. Fry the paste till you see specks of oil on top. Make sure to control the heat as you can burn the whole thing at this point. Add the potatoes and stir fry for a minute or two. Pour in the coconut milk and let it come to full boil. Reduce it to simmer and let the potatoes cook fully. Add the eggs (scored lightly with a knife for the spices to seep in) and season to taste. Reduce the heat and let the sauce simmer away until the coconut milk is reduced. Take it off the flame and garnish with fried shallots and curry leaves.

Double Yolk...Again!

2013-05-13T15:32:00.001-07:00

It was a year ago that I had cracked open a whole tray of eggs and each one of them had double yolks! So, I am not new to double yolks though they still gives me the heebie-jeebies. This morn, I cracked open another one and there it was again...a double yolked egg. They did not taste any different but still creeps me out a bit. Let me know if you feel the same.

Etihad Airways - NEVER AGAIN

2010-04-24T19:47:00.000-07:00

The National Airlines of United Arab Emirates! Traveled by Etihad from Toronto to Cochin and had the worst experience ever. In comparison, United Airlines trip to Singapore was luxury. I was happy with my flight until the time I landed in Abu Dhabi. Due to security breach, we were booted off the aircraft (Abu Dhabi/Cochin) and cordoned off in an area with no washrooms, drinking water and supremely unfriendly crew. The passengers included infants, older people and couple of men in dire need of medication. "Bathroom" breaks were restricted and an airlines staff informed me in a condescending way that I was fortunate to get a one! I protested on behalf of the unusually quiet passengers and the police asked me for my passport. I couldn't believe this was happening. Taking care of security is understandable and paramount, but treating everyone (including new born infants) the way Etihad did, was unforgivable. After a long wait, we were finally lined off to board the flight. As the plane took off, I began to wonder if the passengers would have been treated the same way, say if the flight was from UK and predominantly "white". Apparently, the security breach was a box of chocolates the unfortunate Etihad employee passed on to one of the passengers traveling on the flight to Cochin. My heart goes out to him.

Aotearoa – Long White Clouds | Your Big Break

2010-01-06T08:19:00.000-08:00

Aotearoa – Long White Clouds | Your Big Break

This will be my first break in filmmaking and I need your votes... Thanks for your support...

Venice - You don't have to break your bank!

2009-09-23T11:30:00.000-07:00

Venice, like Gius says is a Living Museum. It can be however, formidably expensive. Well, if you are not too worried about your skyrocketing credit card bills, you could really enjoy the city like a Venetian noble. But if you are anywhere as broke as us, you may want to read a few tips on how we saved some precious pennies while enjoying this beautiful city.

First of all, hotel prices around Venice is expensive. Follow the Shoestring rule and find a place in Mestre. For a short bus/water taxi ride, you will save tons on your hotel stay. Moreover, you will be in midst of authentic Venetian life as Venetians have moved out of Venice for the aforementioned reason - skyrocketing prices. You will also find excellent food, shopping and nightlife in this area. Someone suggested Padova, but I would skip it if you are short on time.

BUY a 12 hour vaporetto ticket, which will cost you 13 Euros. This will allow you to ride the water taxi to your hearts content (To max out on the romance take the vaporetto at night, while cuddling up with your honey bunny). This ticket will also allow you to visit six churches, 50 palaces, four bridges and the open air markets of the Grand Canal.

Ditch the tired pizzas and try out Chicheti treats (delicious skewered treats) - Best places to try these treats are Pronto Pesce Pronto, Osteria I Rusteghi or at Alla Vedova.

Sip a glass of wine (2 Euros) at Un Mondo Di Vino, Improntacafe, Aurora Caffe, while watching the world go by. Happy hours at these place comes with free (did someone say FREE?) nibbles between 11am - 3pm and 6.30-8.30pm

Ferrara

2009-09-23T09:37:00.000-07:00

A city of bicycles, the renaissance capital of Italy, an architechtural gem, UNESCO World Heritage site...

The Demon King

2007-07-04T19:39:00.000-07:00

You are greeted by his fearsome personality in the arrival lounge of Suvarnabhumi international airport. His blue green face, a snarling mouth, and curving tusk-like canine teeth makes you shudder. You meet him everywhere in Thailand, in form of Khon masks, souvenirs, paintings and as guardian of all major temples. Have you wondered about this fierce character?
He is Ravana, or tosakanth in Thai, from the Indian epic Ramayana; its main protagonists are King Rama and his wife Sita and the antagonist, the dreaded evil personified, Ravana. Of course, the main theme, as in any classic drama, is the victory of good over evil. The saga began when besotted by Sita's beauty, Ravana, known for his weakness for beautiful women and virility, abducts and whisks her away to his kingdom.
There are two significant encounters that would shape the course of Ramayana: Ravana molests Vedavati, the beautiful hermit and forcibly takes her; and, Vedavati prophesied, before killing herself in a pyre, that she would return to mortal world as the cause of his death,. She is then reborn as Sita, wife of king Rama, who defeated and killed Ravana.
His second encounter happened with the divine Rambha, upon whom he forced himself. Her lover cursed Ravana, stating that his ten heads would fall off his head if he forced himself upon any woman again. Sita's chastity was protected while she was Ravana's captive for nearly a year, thanks to this curse.
Ravana, to his credit, had many good points. He was benevolent and effective king of Lanka and it is said the poorest of houses had vessels of gold to eat and drink off. Amongst his many virtues, the foremost was his knowledge of sacred books, medicines and magic. He was considered as a reformer, revolutionary and just ruler who opposed the caste system. A great devotee of Shiva (Phra Isuan), his penances had borne many fruits. Ravana is depicted in art with up to ten heads, signifying that he had knowledge spanning all the ten directions.
In the Thai version of Ramayana, Ramakien, the essence is the same but there is a 'Thainess' added to the story such as clothes, weapons, and nature. Ramakien dates back to the 13th century and in the past 200 years, nine kings of Thailand have been named Rama, after the main protagonist King Rama. For 400 years the capital of Thailand was Ayutthaya (ayodhya), Rama's kingdom in the epic.
The Rama legend is remarkably depicted in the wonderful murals of the Emerald Buddha temple on the grounds of the Grand Palace built by King Rama I in Bangkok. In the gallery surrounding the temple there are beautifully restored sections of paintings which depicts the entire story of the Ramayana.
Ramakien has appealed to Thai people over centuries making it the national epic. Many other Asian cultures have adapted the Ramayana, resulting in other national epics. Kakawin Rāmâyana is an old Javanese rendering of the Sanskrit Ramayana from ninth century Indonesia. It is a faithful rendering of the Hindu epic with very little variation. Phra Lak Phra Lam is a Lao language version, whose title comes from Lakshmana, Rama's younger brother, and Rama. The story of Lakshmana and Rama is told as the previous life of the Buddha. In Hikayat Seri Rama of Malaysia, Dasharatha, Rama's father, is the great-grandson of the Prophet Adam. Ravana receives boons from Allah instead of Brahma.
In its different hues and colors, however, the universal themes and ideals of righteous behavior, loyalty to family and kingdom, the balancing of good and evil, self-sacrifice for the betterment of society, and morality remains the same.
And coming back to Ravana, love him or hate him, without him this epic would have been impossible.

Finally in Thailand

2007-07-04T09:35:00.000-07:00

After months of dreaming about visiting Thailand, I find myself living in Ao Nang, a beautiful little village by the Andaman Coast. Its idyllic beaches, limestone cliffs, emerald waters do not seem real. I have to pinch myself at times. The village itself is not spectacular in terms of architecture. The legendary friendliness of Thai people is not an exaggeration though. They welcome you into their hearts and homes, which is a bonus as you get to sample the delicious Thai cuisine - home style…

But true to my blog name 'wandering gypsies', I feel restless in my one bedroom villa. I feel too settled. I even have a cat named Trouble…

My backpack seems to be gathering dust… it beckons me and yesterday I stuffed it to the brim and it felt good on my back. Maybe it is time to move on again.

The unofficial "National Drink" of India

2007-04-19T06:36:00.000-07:00

Stepping out of my warm bed, I make my way to the kitchen. I fill the kettle with water. Bleakly, I wait for the water to boil. I add black tea leaves, crushed cardamom and cinnamon. The water comes to a full boil. My body, mind and senses start tingling as the smell of tea and spices waft from the kettle. To this dark decoction, I add generous amount of milk and sugar. I let the tea steep for a minute. I pour out a tall cup of the sweet tea, or Chai - an invigorating way to start my day. As I sip my Chai, my mind wanders back to my travel in India.

Chai is the beverage that is the common thread that runs from the length and breadth of India - Kashmir to Kanyakumari, Surat to Patna - “unity in diversity.” The whole country is dotted with numerous Chai stalls and from dawn to dusk, thousands of people converge into these stalls (think about the squares in Europe) – office goers, laborers, philosophers, poets, writers and occasional tourists. Anytime is an occasion to have a cup of Chai.

The subtle differences in Chai from different regions are amazing. In North India, the “Chai” is creamier, sweeter, and spiced with Cardamom, ginger, cinnamon or pepper – the result, the delicious “Masala” Chai to warm one’s cockles on a cold winter morning. In the East, “Cha” is served in a Kullhar or Mutka, tiny clay cups, which give the Chai a distinct earthy flavor. An experience to die for, whilst you sit and enjoy the fragrant breeze from the endless green rice fields. Down south, “Chaiya” is served in shot glasses. Your jaws drop as you watch the “Chaiya Master” beat up a creamy froth (did the Italians steal this idea for their equally delicious cappuccino?) by pouring the tea energetically back and forth between two glasses – the result of this rhythm is a tiny shot glass of purely delicious frothy “Chaiya”! The Indian Chai experience is not complete without the “Irani Chai”, the recipe that was imported by the Iranians living in Hyderabad. The tea is distinctly Iranian (the tea leaves are processed in a different way) but the Indians have heartily adopted this foreigner as their own.

The crowning glory of my Indian tea experience was the Kashmiri tea Kahva, a green tea infused with crushed almonds, green cardamom, cinnamon and strands of saffron. This aromatic tea becomes a exhilarating experience when sipped aboard the Shikara’s (a wooden boat) elaborately carved wooden verandas while drifting across a crystal clear lake high in the Himalayan Mountains.

Wherever you are in this country, you can be sure of one thing – a cup of good ole’ Indian Chai!

2007-04-18T07:02:00.000-07:00

My six months of travel in India is culminating today with a visit to the holiest cities – Varanasi. The “holy” status is conferred upon this city, along with Benares, Kashi and Rishikesh, due to the fact that the river Ganges flows through them. According to the Hindu mythology, Goddess Ganga descended from heaven in response to the prayers of King Bhagiratha, whose ancestors were reduced to ashes by the curse of Sage Kapila. Lord Shiva agrees to break Ganga’s fall to earth by taking her on his head and safely knotting her in his matted hair. From there Ganga continued her journey to the place where the ashes of King Bhagiratha’s ancestors lay, liberating them with her magical waters.

Millions of devout Hindus throng to these holy cities to bathe in the Ganges, believed to wash away one’s sins and ensure a smooth journey heavenward towards moksha, the eternal freedom. The riverbank or Ghats are a sight to behold with saffron robed sadhus (holy men), devotees, flower sellers, half naked children and cows wearing haughty expressions (I assume due to their “sacred mother” status). Early morning is the best time to see the Brahmins preparing the puja, the sacred offering to the river, the chandals, lowest in the caste system, preparing the funeral pyre later to be consigned to the holy river. Children splash in the almost ashy water and women gossip while washing their load of clothes, oblivious to the ghoulish preparations nearby.

As night falls, the inky waters are illuminated with little oil lamps set afloat and sound of the temples bells and the arti, the sacred chant, reverberates through the still night. Hypnotized by the magic of Ganges, I watch the little oil lamps balanced precariously on wide lotus leaves, float merrily heavenwards.