Ivan About Town

Ilocos culinary adventure!

2009-07-12T01:19:00.001+08:00

Ilocos can be a culinary adventure as well if you know what's there. I've already talked about the Ilocos empanada and the Ilocano fusion pizzas. But the our Ultimate Philippines tour of Ilocos last May was much more than that.

Dinner in Vigan was a feast. The group was hosted at an old house and served local Ilocano fare which included: pippian (a stew of Mexican origin), dinardaraan (or dinuguan), anakan, kalderetang kalding (or kambing), grilled Vigan longganiza, poki-poki (an eggplant dish), seaweed salad, utong and katuray salad, pancit musico (which I was told got its names because it was a snack usually served to musicians), grilled malaga, ipon (a really small fish), pinapaitan, sinanglao (beef innards soup), and inkalti (a molasses-based dessert).

Lunch the next day was at Hidden Garden, a few minutes drive from the city center. There we were served pinakbet, okoy, ensaladang rabong, Vigan empanada, bagnet, dinaldalem (a dish of pork and pork innards such as lungs, liver and heart), and dinengdeng (similar to pinakbet but more of the bagoong soup base).

Finally, merienda before going home followed the theme street food. We ate at Abuelita's Restaurant where we were served empanada (this one had cabbage), okoy, the local bibingka, patupat and miki.

Related articles
Viva Vigan! Binatbatan Festival, Tres de Mayo and more Vigan festivities
Road trip: Ilocos Sur and Ilocos Norte

Pancit Batil Patung of Tuguegarao, Cagayan

2009-07-10T15:38:00.003+08:00

Pancit Batil Patung or Batil Patong is a noodle dish unique to Tuguegarao, Cagayan. It's something you have to try if ever you get to visit the warmest city in the country.

I got to try the one at Paul Louis in front of the old city hall. I asked if I could see the pancit being made in the kitchen. I guess the reason behind the name is that the sahog is simply placed on top of the noodles.

The meats include ground pork, beef or possibly even carabeef. They also add sauteed vegetables, crushed chicharon and fried egg. If you get the mega or jumbo size, they throw in liver and hotdogs. It's PHP40 for the super size which I had, and the mega and jumbo are PHP50 and PHP60 respectively.

They usually serve chopped onions and calamansi with the pancit. Make sure to ask the servers how to mix the onions, calamansi, vinegar and soy sauce with the pancit.

Gretchen's is another pancitan in front of the old city hall. Another suggested pancitan is Long Life in Barangay Tanza in front of Panacal Village. In many of these restaurants, they also sell Pancit Cabagan, which is the native pancit of Cabagan, Isabela but very popular in Tuguegarao.

Main article: Pancit, mami and other noodles dishes of the Philippines

Pinatubo Spa Town and more from Capas, Tarlac

2009-07-09T00:20:00.002+08:00

Pinatubo Spa Town is among the best places to get a shiatsu massage. I've been there twice and both shiatsu sessions were unbelievably great, especially after a tiring trek to Mount Pinatubo, or in our case, a medical and dental mission in Barangay Sta. Juliana, Capas, Tarlac.

The complete spa treatment has three components. The first is the sulfur sand shower where you are buried up to the neck under volcanic sand from Mt. Pinatubo for 30 minutes. They say it's good for the skin, opens up the pores, and you release toxins while you sweat. But isn't sweat the same with or without being buried under the sand?

After taking a cold shower, the next component is the sulfur mud pack. It's actually a funny feeling since you basically cover yourself with volcanic mud and wait for it to dry up, again to open the pores.

Finally, after rinsing off and one last shower, the last component, and the best if I may say so, is a shiatsu massage treatment in an open air pavilion in the compound. Each component is individually priced at PHP500. But you can get all three at PHP1000, which is quite good a bargain. The lunch is also good and filling. But it's PHP350 per head.

Anyway, Tambayayong 2002, my Ship for Southeast Asian Youth Program (SSEAYP) batch, organized a medical and dental mission last July 4 in Capas. We realized after looking at the registration that we serviced over 500 patients!

Thank you to Mayor Rey Catacutan of Capas, Tarlac for being such a gracious host and for taking us around. We got to visit the New Asia Golf Course and the Capas National Shrine after closing hours!

Thank you so much to all those who attended and contributed, especially those who donated funds and medicines (we got so much and have supply for our next one in Novenber). I specifically want to thank Unilab whom I personally begged at the last minute. They gave us tons of Diatabs, Biogesic, Medicol and Hydrite.

Thank you to the doctors and interns who attended: Joseph Lachica, Ryan Guinaran, Tina Langit (all three were chairpersons of the UP Med Student Council at one time), Gideon Lasco and Ria Santos. Thank you as well to the Strada Club of the Philippines for the dentists. I hope I didn't miss anyone!

Related entry
Trekking and 4x4 to Mt. Pinatubo

Apu Iro Fluvial Procession in Apalit, Pampanga

2009-07-08T12:51:00.012+08:00

When I was still fresh out of college, I'd try to attend all of the festivals in Pampanga. One of those annual trips was to the town of Apalit every June 28 to 30 for the Apu Iro Fluvial Procession or libad.

While the actual feast day of Sts. Peter & Paul is on June 29, the fluvial festivities are held the day before the fiesta, when the centuries-old ivory image of St. Peter or Apu Iro (sometimes Apung Iro or Apung Iru) is brought from the chapel in Sulipan to the town church; and the day after the fiesta, when the same image is returned to the chapel, in grand and festive fluvial processions along the Rio Grande de Pampanga.

As soon as the image of Apu Iro nears the decorated pagoda, a mad splashing and water fight along the river banks ensues. The Apu Iro Fluvial Procession is one of the many water festivals of the Philippines (and Southeast Asia). So expect to get really wet!

Notice also the Knights of St. Peter in yellow uniforms swimming in the river, tugging onto the rope and pulling the pagoda towards its destination.

It would be great though if you know someone in Apalit who will be renting out a boat since the view from the water is much better and you can witness the whole procession. I wanted to attend this year since I have not seen it for quite some time now. But unfortunately, I was doing my rounds of North Philippines. So I asked for photos from the Center for Kapampangan Studies instead.

Main article: Philippine festivals and other cultural celebrations

Iglesia ni Cristo Day is a special working holiday!

2009-07-07T23:01:00.007+08:00

Just to let everyone know, July 27, 2009 was declared Iglesia ni Cristo Day commemorating the founding anniversary of the sect. The question is whether it is a special working holiday or a non-working holiday since the Inquirer and Philippine Star are reporting it differently. If it is, that adds to the long weekend calendar for this year. For more on this year's long weekends, read Philippine holidays and long-weekend schedule for 2009.

Update: I contacted a friend in Malacanang. Sorry people, but it's a working holiday. I was told the PDI print version also says that. Now there goes the credibility of Inquirer.net!

Alternate route to Baguio

2009-07-01T00:16:00.011+08:00

Alternate routes to Baguio are being sought due to the worsening traffic along MacArthur Highway. I don't know for how many years they've been trying to repair the roads in Urdaneta, Pangasinan. But they never finish it. And it gives me the impression that they don't intend to and that they'll keep constructing until they milk government coffers dry. As a result, traffic there is horrible and it can delay you for as much as an hour especially during the day time.

One option is the Magilas Trail via Rosales, Sta. Maria, Asingan and back to MacArthur Highway at Binalonan. This bypasses the traffic in Villasis and Urdaneta City.

But another option is to take an alternate route from the Tarlac City SCTEx Exit itself. Instead of making a left back to MacArthur Highway, I made a right and took the alternate route to Baguio via La Paz, Victoria, Guimba, Cuyapo connecting to the Magilas Trail in Rosales. This skips traffic along MacArthur Highway from Tarlac City all the way to Binalonan, Pangasinan.

It's a bit longer but faster. Roads are relatively good plus vehicles are scarce. So there's less stress driving since I didn't have to worry about driving in crawling traffic or overtaking slow vehicles except for the occasional tricycles which occur much, much less than along MacArthur Highway. Travel time from the Tarlac City SCTEx Exit to MacArthur Highyway in Binalonan (97.4 kilometers total) via this alternate route is under two hours.

What's good about the route is that it's clearly marked by directional signs both ways. On the way to Baguio, just make sure you pick the route via Guimba as you exit Victoria since the other option via Pura, Ramos and Paniqui will bring you back to MacArthur Highway and Urdaneta City traffic.

Remember though that this alternate route is good only for the day time when traffic is bad along MacArthur Highway. Also make sure you're gas tanks are full and that you've eaten or have supplies on board since there's nothing much along the way. In fact, you don't even pass by town propers except in Victoria, Tarlac and Rosales and Binalonan, Pangasinan.

Going up Baguio, Kennon Road is my choice during the day time and when it's not raining. It's shorter, faster and very scenic. I enjoy the view of its many waterfalls which become all the more evident after it rains.

Sadly, GI sheets started to mushroom all over the place. There are now two houses at the base of Bridal Veil Falls destroying the view. And Camp 6 in Tuba, Benguet is the most horrible! The local government of Tuba should start doing something to protect the wonderful view of this historic road.

Also remember that there is ongoing road rehabilitation in the Camp 8 segment. So Kennon Road is one way in that area. So going back down to Manila, you'll have to pass by Marcos Highway or enter Kennon Road via Loakan.

Related entry
Waterfalls along Kennon Road

Pancit, mami and other noodles dishes of the Philippines

2009-06-28T15:43:00.016+08:00

Pancit or pansit is a very popular noodle dish of the Philippines. In fact, the Philippines has a lot of noodle dishes. After the longganisa series (which I have yet to complete), it's now time to talk about pancit, mami, at iba pa! Many localities have their own noodle dishes, pancit being the most popular of course.

Do check this entry regularly since I will be updating it and placing the hyperlinks as I upload new posts. You also can add to this list by commenting below.

Atay con Misua (Binondo, Manila)
Chami (Binondo, Manila)
Chami (Sariaya, Quezon)
Chamisua (Binondo, Manila)
La Paz Batchoy (Iloilo City)
Lobihon (Binondo, Manila)
Lomi (Batangas)
Maki Mi (Binondo, Manila)
Mami
Pancit Alanganin
Pancit Batil Patung (Tuguegarao, Cagayan)
Pancit Bato
Pancit Bihon
Pancit Bihongundoy
Pancit Cabagan (Cabagan, Isabela)
Pancit Cabagan (Tuguegarao, Cagayan)
Pancit Canton
Pancit Efuven (Iloilo City)
Pancit Estacion (Tanza, Cavite)
Pancit Guisado
Pancit Habhab (Lucban, Quezon)
Pancit Langlang (Tagalog Region)
Pancit Lomi (see Lomi)
Pancit Luglog (Pampanga)
Pancit Luglog (Tagalog Region)
Pancit Malabon
Pancit Marilao (Bulacan)
Pancit Molo (Iloilo City)
Pancit Miki
Pancit Miki-Bihon Guisado
Pancit Morong
Pancit Musiko (Vigan)
Pancit ng Bataan
Pancit Palabok
Pancit Puti (Manila)
Pancit Sotanghon
Pansit Sabaw

Related article: Dictionary of Philippine street food

Longganisa Tuguegarao

2009-06-27T23:47:00.003+08:00

Tuguegarao, Cagayan produces a really popular variety of longganisa. This longganisa would fall under the derecado garlicky (or mabawang) category. The longganisas are said to be very flavorful and stuffed with enough garlic to ward off aswangs. I went around Tuguegarao and saw these longganisas at the Don Domingo Public Market.

Main article: Longanizas of the Philippines

Longganisa Vigan

2009-06-26T17:18:00.000+08:00

This is the Vigan longganisa. The derecado or garlicky longganisa is sold almost everywhere in Vigan. This one I saw along Crisologo Street where they sell those bibingkas.

Main article: Longanizas of the Philippines

Late night shabu-shabu at Golden Fortune Seafood Restaurant

2009-06-21T17:49:00.001+08:00

Here is the answer to your late night shabu-shabu cravings! Last March, the Philippines hosted the Asia 21 Young Leaders Forum. Among the delegates was Minnesota state senator Mee Moua who had mentioned to us over dinner that she was hoping to visit Chinatown before leaving the next day. On short notice, we rang Ivan Man Dy of Old Manila Walks to give her a private night tour of Binondo!

After exploring Binondo, we went for late night shabu-shabu at Golden Fortune Seafood Restaurant which closes at 1 a.m. daily. What's even better is starting at 9 p.m., they give a hefty discount for shabu-shabu (30 to 50 percent depending on the ingredient), dimsum and seafood. The same discount is offered from 2 to 5:30 p.m.

The shabu-shabu was great! At least we now know where to go when craving for late night food in Binondo!

Golden Fortune Seafood Restaurant
Peace Hotel, 1283 Soler Street
Binondo, Manila
(02) 244-2777

Ateneo turns 150!

2009-06-15T17:30:00.011+08:00

Last Sunday, the Ateneo de Manila University opened festivities marking its sesquicentennial or 150th anniversary. The celebrations could have been bigger with student participation but had to be toned down because of the A(H1N1) situation. But the events were meaningful and grand nonetheless.

The whole day was actually a motorcade that started in Intramuros, the orginal site of the Ateneo, ending at the current campus in Loyola Heights. It started with a High Mass at the Manila Cathedral celebrated by His Eminence Gaudencio Cardinal Rosales and a battalion of Jesuit priests. This was followed by a procession from the Cathedral to the ruins of San Ignacio Church and the original site of the Ateneo de Manila.

It was in 1859 that the City of Manila handed over control of Manila's only primary school, the Escuela Municipal de Manila, to the Jesuits, who had returned to the Philippines on June 14, 1859 after nearly a century of absence.

As a side note, had the Jesuits not been suppressed and expelled from the Philippines in 1768, the oldest school in the country would have been the Colegio de Manila which was founded by the Jesuits in 1590. It was made the Universidad de San Ignacio by Pope Gregory XV in 1621, and the first royal and pontifical university in the Philippines and in Asia in 1732.

The Escuela Municipal de Manila formally opened its doors on December 10, 1859. In 1865, it was renamed Ateneo Municipal de Manila after it was accredited as an institution for secondary education.

Anyway, we all trooped to the San Ignacio Church to witness groundbreaking ceremonies for the reconstruction of the church and its Casa Mision which will house the Museo de Intramuros. That's right, the three-storey Casa Mision will be reconstructed to house the priceless relics and artifacts that have long been in storage in the offices of the Intramuros Administration. The ultimate dream is to rebuild the San Ignacio Church, arguably the grandest of all Intramuros churches!

After the program, we were served a traditional 19th century Ateneo breakfast composed of churros con chocolate, melocotón (peaches) and pandesal. A fire destroyed the Intramuros campus in 1932. The school thus transferred to Padre Faura Street in Ermita. And this was the second stop of the motorcade.

A marker was unveiled at the entrance of what is now Robinsons Place as a reminder that the Ateneo campus once stood there. The Padre Faura campus, together with the San Ignacio Church in Intramuros, were destroyed during World War II.

The motorcade also passed by the old Salcedo Campus, the Ateneo Professional Schools at Rockwell, and the School of Medicine and Public Health in Ortigas before finally making its way to Loyola Heights. The motorcade was welcomed at the Church of the Gesu with cheers from the Blue Babble Batallion.

The day finally ended with a concert by the Ateneo Chamber Singers, the Ateneo College Glee Club and some more talents at the Gesu. But the absence of most of the students was felt. So I hope in December, when we hold the One Big Night, no A(H1N1) will dampen the celebrations! But thank God for giving us a sunny Sunday!

Charlie's Grind & Grill serves great burgers!

2009-06-15T17:23:00.007+08:00

I'll gladly pay you Tuesday for a hamburger today! I'm sure J. Wellington Wimpy would have been happy if he lived in Barrio Kapitolyo in Pasig with Charlie's Grind & Grill dishing up some of the best burgers in town.

Great thing it's near my place of work so I get to enjoy their Black Angus Burgers with Fresh Fries (note it's fresh because they are chopped just right before frying) anytime I crave for a burger. You can add 'shrooms or even smoked bacon if you want. And there are a lot of American comfort foods too. But I'll definitely go back for more burgers.

The store can actually fall in the category hole-in-the-wall (there are a lot of hole-in-the-wall places which serve really great food). You could easily miss it since it's tucked inside a car wash! Anyway, I'm on my way there now for dinner!

Charlie's Grind & Grill
16 East Capitol Drive, Bo. Kapitolyo, Pasig City

HCS turns 10!

2009-06-10T21:34:00.010+08:00

The Heritage Conservation Society (HCS) began in 1994 as an ad hoc group known as Save Manila Bay! As far back as the Aquino administration, a group of concerned citizens was already clamoring for the conservation of our built heritage, settings and sites. A well-connected constructing company was about to reclaim Manila Bay, and the Secretary of Public Works already had plans of constructing a fly-over on Quirino Avenue and Roxas Boulevard. Doris Magsaysay Ho, Bambi Harper, Edda Henson, to name only a few concerned citizens, were up in arms and formed the Tourist Belt and Business Association to save Manila Bay from commercial depredation.

The HCS was formally established on 21 June 1999. The incorporating trustees were Doris Ho, Joan Orendain, Bambi Harper, Paulo Alcazaren and Augusto Villalon. Evident it is that the objectives stated by the Society were the results of more than a decade of battles and sustained advocacy.

The main issue of the day was the July 2000 demolition of the Jai Alai Building, an Art Deco treasure designed by noted American architect Welton Becket, on the orders of Mayor Lito Atienza. For more information on this, read The Game's Over: A link with the past goes as Manila's Jai Alai stadium is torn down.

Villalon says, "The useless demolition of Manila’s Jai Alai building in June 2000 was the catalyst that opened Filipino eyes to the fragility of the remaining symbols from our past."

"The year 2001 was when heritage conservationists flexed their muscles, forged partnerships with environmentalists to protect heritage, and tested the effectiveness of Philippine law in preserving the nation’s cultural heritage," Villalon recounts in his article Getting our heritage to survive the ages.

In the spirit of continuity, the 2002 HCS Board emphasized the importance of advocacy work because of the belief that before “coming to blows,” we first have to exhaust all means to inform local and national government officials, communities, architects and engineers, developers, lawyers, students, even the media about the value of heritage – what heritage is and why we are battling to conserve it.

Heritage conservation maintains links with our past by preserving significant structures, historical and cultural sites and settings. Our built heritage is evidence of our political history and socioeconomic development; it reflects our shared values, and is tangible proof of Filipino excellence and creativity.

Far from converting anything of our heritage into a museum, the HCS affirms that an efficient 21st century lifestyle can take place in the same urban and architectural envelope created by earlier generations. Built heritage can be recycled for contemporary, adaptive re-use, thereby preserving the cultural charm and traditional character of our cities and towns. Heritage conservation enhances progress and modernization : from urban revitalization and community housing, to the revival of traditional crafts and the stimulation of entrepreneurial activities. It awakens our pride of place, arousing cultural and historical awareness, which often advances cultural tourism.

Ten years after its creation, HCS continues to dream and work for "a Filipino society that values and preserves its cultural heritage in order to instill pride of place and strengthen Philippine national identity." With the help of every Filipino, that dream will become a reality.

Join us for a Benefit Dinner on 20 June 2009 at My Mother's Garden (the residence of Pablo Antonio, National Artist for Architecture), 2650 Zamora Street, Pasay City as the Heritage Conservation Society celebrates a decade of enthusiastically promoting pride of place in the entire country. Please contact the Secretariat 5212239, 5222497, (0917) 8668853 or (0922) 8712061 for more information.

Baguio heritage in Camp John Hay going gone!

2009-06-06T23:34:00.011+08:00

Unbelievable! Greedy! Stupid! That is all I could say when I saw these photos of the original American housing in Camp John Hay flattened to make way for new developments. I used to be so happy that at least Camp John Hay was still an enclave of Baguio heritage and green. But that was until I saw these photos!

It's really stupid. No, really! The new buildings they construct have no connection whatsoever to the history of Baguio. They should stick to the distinctive green and white architecture of the American colonial period. These developers are giving Camp John Hay a serious identity problem. They continue to destroy its unique character. The simple elegance of these decades-old houses would have been unmatched if they had been restored. Now what? Will they build second-rate copies of houses in the Alps?

Jack Carino writes, "More of old Baguio's distinctive green-and-white architecture gone!!! Photos taken January 30, 2009. So not even a toot from conservation activists. I enter Camp John Hay maybe twice or thrice a month to check on the sale of our magazines and I didn't get a clue that this was going on! Probably the demolition was done stealthily? Or traffic was rerouted when this was done?

"Anyway, I think that the Camp John Hay managers have no sense of history and heritage. They will probably build European-inspired structures just like the Manor and the Suites.

"Those vestiges of Baguio's American colonial past should have been preserved and whatever they are going to construct there should be brought to the Baguio outskirts."

Dion Fernandez tells us more, "I spoke to a representative of the John Hay Management Corporation last month, and the demolition job seen in Mr. [Wilson]'s photos is part of their plan to create an exclusive 'playground of the rich,' which runs contradictory to 'quiet dignity' as promised in the turnover manuscript posted over at the Bell House. A luxury neighborhood is expected to rise where those simple houses have fallen. The only American Heritage area left would be the so-called 'Historical Core,' which unfortunately will also eventually be 'developed' as per the architectural plans found on a balcony also outside Bell House.

"Meanwhile, I have seen the plans of the Ayala Corporation to put up a massive BPO building within Camp John Hay. Yes, it is a concrete/glass structure. Yes, pine trees will be destroyed to make way for this behemoth."

Isn't that just horrible? There are just a few pristine areas left in Baguio City. Let's preserve what's left of the heritage and environment of Baguio, especially those wonderful pine trees!

Many thanks to Ronald Hilton for taking and allowing me to use the photos and to Jack Carino for forwarding them to the HCS. At least we know now the stupidity that is happening in Camp John Hay. It's time for Baguio citizens to be vigilant! Wake up Baguio! Let's put an end to this nonsense!

Related articles
Is Baguio a hopeless case?

Summer in Batanes is from June to August

2009-05-31T23:00:00.005+08:00

While the rains begin pouring down on the rest of the Philippines, spring is giving way to summer in Batanes. Yes, it's summer in Batanes. In fact, locals say that summer in Batanes is from June to August.

While there may be some occasional rains, one must not forget that Batanes has four seasons due to its close proximity to the temperate region. In fact, it's closer to Taiwan than it is to the rest of the Philippines.

Don't be discouraged by rainy Manila because now is the best time to visit Batanes! We were just there last week. And I'll be talking about it in the next few days. Rich in heritage, scenic views and beautiful beaches, Batanes is a must visit for anyone. Book your trip now at www.flyseair.com or call SEAIR Reservations at (02) 8490100. For packages call SEAIR Leisure Escape Packages at (02) 8437308.

Related entries
Batanes, undiscovered paradise up north
Marlboro Country, Mahatao Church and more from Batan Island
Batanes stone houses in Savidug and Chavayan, Nakabuang Beach and more from Sabtang Island
Batanes hotels and restaurants plus exploring Batanes by bike

Issue 2 of Northbound Magazine is out!

2009-05-29T08:50:00.000+08:00

Issue 2 of Northbound Magazine, a free quarterly travel guide to North Philippines (Ilocos Region, Cagayan Valley, the Cordilleras and Central Luzon), will be available in hotels, restaurants and information centers around the region beginning next week. This magazine is a publication of the North Philippines Visitors Bureau. You can download the online version from www.northphilippines.org.

Bring out your Philippine flags! It's National Flag Day 2009!

2009-05-28T00:00:00.006+08:00

It's National Flag Day 2009 today! After reminding Filipinos about the proper way to sing the Philippine National Anthem, it's time to talk about our foremost national symbol, the Philippine flag, and the proper way of displaying it. When was the last time you displayed the Philippine flag outside your home? According to Section 7 of RA 8491 - An Act Prescribing the Code of the National Flag, Anthem, Motto, Coat-of-Arms and other Heraldic Items and Devices of the Philippines:

"SECTION 7. The flag shall also be displayed in private buildings and residences or raised in the open on flag-staffs in front of said buildings every April 9 (Araw ng Kagitingan); May 1 (Labor Day); May 28 (National Flag Day) to June 12 (Independence Day); last Sunday of August (National Heroes Day); November 30 (Bonifacio Day); and December 30 (Rizal Day); and on such other days as may be declared by the President and/or local chief executives."

May 28, 1898 was the day the Philippine flag was first unfurled near the port of Cavite Nuevo after the victory at the Battle of Alapan, where the Philippine Revolutionary Army lead by Aguinaldo defeated the Spanish Army. This day is recognized today as National Flag Day.

As one Filipino nation, let us display the Philippine flag outside our homes and offices from May 28 (National Flag Day) to June 12 (Independence Day)! For the proper display of the flag, please read RA 8491.

The painting above is one of my favorites from Claude Tayag's Fiestas serigraph series. It's called Hunyo 12. In fact, I have one displayed in my room.

Viva Vigan! Binatbatan Festival, Tres de Mayo and more Vigan festivities

2009-05-27T00:26:00.011+08:00

Vigan, Ilocos Sur is one of the grandest showcases of Philippine architectural heritage. And we what made it extra special was that Vigan was celebrating Tres de Mayo, an annual festival of thanksgiving, plus the Viva Vigan! Binatbatan Festival of the Arts.

We made our way down to Vigan from Pagudpud. But stopped over at Saramsam Cafe in Laoag for more Ilocano pizza. We were delayed a bit because of a minor road mishap. But we arrived in Vigan just in time for the street dance parade that was making its way through this UNESCO World Heritage City.

The Viva Vigan! Binatbatan Festival of the Arts is a cultural showcase of the city that was first organized in 1993 to coincide with the Tres de Mayo festivities. The centuries-old structures along Crisologo Street were all decorated with abel iloko cloth or inabel to mark the celebrations. The binatbatan street dancing started in 2002, with dancing mimicking the traditional Ilocano way of beating the cotton pods with two bamboo sticks, the first process in making inabel. This beating was done to separate the seeds from the fluff.

Anyway, the parade went on until evening after which we proceed to an old house for dinner. I'll tell you more about dinner in another posts dedicated to the food we feasted on in Vigan.

The next day was Tres de Mayo, a centuries-old fiesta of Vigan citizens to honor the Santo Cristo Milagroso or Apo Lakay. There is actually an early morning Mass at the Simbaan a Bassit or Vigan's Cemetery Chapel to open Tres de Mayo.

We walked around Vigan in the morning and got to appreciate the decorations along Crisologo Street. Lunch was at Hidden Garden and just like dinner, I'll talk about it in another post.

Before proceeding back to the poblacion, we stopped by the pagburnayan or the pottery area of Vigan. We were lucky because it was Fidel Antiporda Go, named a National Folk Artist by the NCCA in 1990, who did a demonstration for us.

The burnay was actually introduced to Vigan by early Chinese traders even before the arrival of the Spanish colonizers. In fact, Go still speaks fluent Hokkien. It served as an all-weather container for local products for shipment ot China and other areas. It's also used for the fermentation of fish sauce, vinegar and basi wine.

Back in the heritage district, we visited the Syquia Mansion, the home of Pres. Elpidio Quirino's wife and repository of a good number of his memorabilia. It's declared by the National Historical Institute as a Heritage House.

While our group was in the house, I walked around to check out the ramadas or makeshift canopies decorated with produce that were constructed around the city as part of Tres de Mayo. The ramadas become focal points for each neighborhood during the afternoon since traditional Filipino games are organized for kids and kids at heart under these canopies.

Vigan's Chinese roots became evident in Crisologo Street as a lion dance troupe made its way around the various shops owned by Chinese-Filipinos. But there were no fire crackers though which always accompanies this practice.

Late in the afternoon, a calesa parade made its way around the city. Each calesa was decorated with everything Vigan and is one event of the festival you should not miss. What was lacking though was a marching band. And San Miguel, being the sponsor of this parade, should have made sure there was a marching band to make the parade even more festive. Were they cutting on costs like most corporates do when they beg organizers for exposure during these festivals? Oh well!

Before we left for Manila, we made one last stopover at Abuelita's Restaurant for a taste of traditional Vigan street food. There was a santacruzan and procession later in the afternoon but we had to rush back home. That was one long drive!

Mairaira Cove (Blue Lagoon) in Pagudpud, Ilocos Norte

2009-05-20T22:37:00.007+08:00

Mairaira Cove or Blue Lagoon in Pagudpud, Ilocos Norte is one of the best beaches in Luzon. A little further north from touristy Saud Beach, its immaculate blue waters entice visitors for a swim. We arrived in Mairara Cove just in time for dinner at the Kapuluan Vista Resort where we were staying for the night.

On the buffet menu was a bevy of grilled dishes. But the highlight of dinner was kalua pig (pork roasted the traditional Hawaiian in a makeshift underground oven).

The next morning, we walked over to Blue Lagoon which was five-minutes from the resort. The sand was soft and the waves were a bit strong. Being a holiday, there were a good number of visitors. There were also some surfers riding the swells further away from the beach.

Mairaira Cove is a popular haunt for surfers. In fact, the resort offered surfing lessons. If we weren't leaving early, I would have taken surfing lessons for an hour or two. At least we were blessed this weekend with sunshine amidst this weird summer weather.

After packing our bags, we went back on the road and drove further north to the Patapat Viaduct for a photo opportunity. From there, it was back south to Laoag City.

Kapuluan Vista Resort
(0920) 9522528

Road trip: Ilocos Sur and Ilocos Norte

2009-05-19T22:05:00.009+08:00

Ilocos is a favorite destination for road trips. And I found myself driving up to Pagudpud again, the northwestern tip of Luzon. On the way up to Pagudpud, there are several interesting stops along the way. Tagudin, Sta. Lucia and Candon have interesting old churches. Candon City is known for its brown and white sweet calamay which is most definitely worth a short stop. Stalls are located in front of the city plaza along the National Highway.

Our first stop on the way was Sabangan Cove (also known as Santiago Cove) which is known for its weaving village. You'll get a chance to see how abel iloko is woven. You can also purchase on the spot but make sure to haggle since starting prices here are higher than Vigan (the good thing about Vigan is the local government ordered standard pricing even along Crisologo Street).

Another stop you should not miss is the Sta. Maria Church, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We skipped Vigan and Bantay since we planned on passing there on the way back. And we also missed Magsingal Church (a National Cultural Treasure) and the Sinait Church due to time constraints but if you have time, it's also worth the stop.

In Ilocos Norte, the first stop is usually the Juan Luna Shrine and Badoc Church. But we went straight to Batac to visit the Marcos Mausoleum and savor Batac's famous Ilocos empanada. From Batac, we proceeded to Paoay Church, another UNESCO World Heritage Site.

In front of the church, is Herencia Cafe where we had lunch. The best seller of course is the Pinakbet Pizza and the other Ilocano fusion pizzas. If you have time, you can also pass by the Ilocos Norte Sand Dunes, a National Geological Monument, Lake Paoay, and Fort Ilocandia. We even had to skip Laoag to get to Bangui Wind Farm before sunset.

We stopped by the Cape Bojeador Lighthouse in Burgos, a National Cultural Treasure, and were able to arrive in the nick of time at the Bangui Wind Farm to enjoy the magnificent South China Sea sunset. So with that down, we made our way to Mairaira Cove in Pagudpud where we stayed for the night.

Buffalo's Wings N Things serves nasty wings!

2009-05-15T12:55:00.012+08:00

The Ortigas Home Depot area is turning out to be a great place to dine and hang-out. One of the places we got to try out is Buffalo's Wing N Things. And hell do they serve really nasty wings! They currently have nine sauces and you can order half a pound, one pound or the triple sampler (three different kids of sauces).

I'm not into spicy food so my favorites were New York's Finest (which was mild spicy) and Honey BBQ (3). There are five chili levels for the original Buffalo wings flavor ranging from The Rookie to Nuclear! We got to try Rescue 911 (1) and Nuclear as well and boy were they hot! Thanks to Bikoy for the illustration (no acting there). We were also served Java Jive, Garlic Parmesan (2) and Jalapeno Hots (4).

But Buffalo's not only serves wings. Other American comfort foods are available such as Twin Dogs (5), Mini Burgers (6), Fish N' Fries and Philly Cheese Steak. They don't serve rice. But they'll happily buy rice for you at the nearby convenience store if you want your wings to go with rice.

More from Ortigas Home Depot
Hermanos Deli Bar at Ortigas Home Depot
UP's Mommy Thai reopens at Ortigas Home Depot

UP's Mommy Thai reopens at Ortigas Home Depot

2009-05-12T00:01:00.011+08:00

During my freshman year in U.P. Diliman, we enjoyed exploring its many culinary secrets. In the International Center, the U.P. dormitory for foreign students, was an unassuming carinderia which served authentic Thai food at very affordable student prices. It was authentic because the cook and owner was a Thai lady whom we all called Mommy Thai.

The stall later on moved to Balara and moved a second time before closing shop in 2006. Many were saddened when Mommy Thai disappeared. And in fact, many U.P. students and alumni think Mommy Thai was closed for good.

The good news is that Mommy Thai reemerged last year in a different location, the Ortigas Home Depot, as Khao Pad. It went unnoticed even by many of their old U.P. patrons until they placed the sign "formerly U.P. Thai Canteen" on its glass window. Now text messages have been going around from the many excited U.P. students who got to savor her tasty Thai lutong-bahay.

While she serves the Thai dishes we are familiar with such as pad thai, tom yum and bagoong rice, her former patrons can still order the dishes she served in U.P. (take note that these are not in the menu but she'll gladly prepare them for you). And arguably the most popular is a dish she calls Mixed (some call it mixed seafood but it's really mixed beef, chicken, squid, vegetables and egg).

Each dish costs PHP120 and is good for 2 to 3 people. In fact, I ordered Mixed a while ago and it was a lot! The U.P. version was a rice topping dish good for one. I'm going back there next week with my college barkada!

Bulusan, Sorsogon residents demand halt to construction of gas station beside church belfry

2009-05-11T23:09:00.008+08:00

I got an SOS e-mail from Bulusan, Sorsogon. Now it's a gas station being built beside an old bell tower! It seems the Roman Catholic Church, Inc. is unstoppable! This is absurd!

Abraham G. Tan writes me, "We have an online group currently working on putting a stop to the construction of a gasoline station in a parcel of land which was originally a portion of the church's outer patio. The gasoline station, once finished, would superimpose itself on the ancient belfry and could only be but an eyesore. Yes, we were told that it indeed was all our current bishop's idea. Thus, we're not really expecting an easy fight. We already sent him a letter, for which we are yet to receive any response."

If you want more details, check out the nine page letter the group sent to Most Rev. Arturo M. Bastes, S.V.D., D.D., Bishop of Sorsogon.

On the Bulusan belfry, Tan writes in Flickr, "Its original pyramidal dome had been removed and replaced with a new one, the same period (early 1970s) that the old stone church was torn down (don't know if such destruction was really necessary), so I was told. Still, this belfry, the largest of the four baluartes de piedra dotting Punta Diamante in Bulusan, the Moro piracy days defense muralla, the stone fort that encloses the church complex of the Parish of St. James the Greater (one of the oldest in the province, founded in 1630), remains grand in its antiquity."

Learning about this development in Sorsogon is very frustrating. When will this ever stop? When will they ever learn?!

Pinakbet Pizza, Dinuguan Pizza, Poque-Poque Pizza and more Ilocano pizzas

2009-05-11T15:43:00.011+08:00

Pinakbet Pizza, ever heard of that? After the Kapampangan pizza at the Camalig (Doy's Delight is topped with longaniza, salted eggs and pickle relish), comes an even longer list of Ilocano pizzas. And we got to taste several of them at two restaurants in Ilocos Norte.

In front of the Paoay Church is Herencia Cafe which first served the Pinakbet Pizza, topped with your usual pinakbet vegetables. We also got to try the Bagnet Pizza which is crispy bagnet or lechon kawali (chicharon as they sometimes refer to it in Ilocos) on a pizza, and the Dinuguan Pizza (dinuguan with crispy bagnet).

Further north is Saramsam Restaurant in Laoag. Their specialty is the Poque-Poque Pizza which is topped with poque-poque or poki-poki, an Ilocano eggplant dish (combination of eggplant, tomatoes, onions ang egg). This is really good!

We also got to try Dinardaraan Pizza, their version of the Dinuguan Pizza, which is dinuguan topped with green chili peppers. Another of my favorites is the Longaniza Pizza topped with the local Laoag longaniza. They also have Carbonara Pizza topped with Currimao oysters. But I was not able to try that out.

There are actually more pizzas to choose from but of foreign influence. So you could just try them out when you're there. These Ilocano pizzas are superb!

Ilocos empanada! Dissecting the Batac and Vigan empanada

2009-05-08T12:20:00.017+08:00

Ilocos empanada is one of my favorite Philippine snacks. Every time I go to Ilocos, I make sure to get my share of Ilocos empanada, especially the one in Batac, which is reputably where the best empanada is served.

The Ilocos empanada is actually of Spanish and Mexican origin. Notice how it's similar to the taco? The basic empanada has a rice flour or galapong crust with grated green papaya inside. The longaniza, egg and bean sprouts were later added. There are actually two varieties of Ilocos empanada, the one in Batac (which is the same one served in Laoag), and the empanada served in Vigan. So what are the differences?

1. On the crust, the crust of the Batac empanada is orange because of the achuete. The Vigan empanada has no coloring and is thus lighter in color.
2. The crust of the Vigan empanada is thinner and crunchier. While the crust of the Batac empanada, while crispy as well, is a bit harder the chew. While many people prefer the crunchier Vigan crust, I noticed it retains more oil.
3. The Batac empanada uses the entire egg. In Vigan, many stalls remove the egg white (this practice maybe had something to do with building churches since egg white was an important building material at that time).
4. Longaniza types are also different. The Batac empanada uses the saltier Laoag longaniza. While the Vigan empanada uses the vinegar-seasoned longaniza of Vigan.
5. Many Vigan empanadas do not have bean sprouts, just the grated green papaya.
6. The differences in vinegar also add distinctiveness to the two varieties. I noticed the Vigan vinegar is very strong with an alcohol-like fermented taste. The Laoag vinegar is really sour and usually has siling labuyo added to it when served in the stalls. I personally prefer the latter.
7. In Vigan, they still use banana leaves to fold and seal the empanada. In Batac, it's already plastic.

The Batac empanada has a lot of variations. There's the ordinary empanada (just the papaya, bean sprouts and egg), ordinary eggless (just the vegetables), special empanada (with longaniza and egg), special eggless (with longaniza but no egg), special w/o mongo (everything except bean sprouts), jumbo empanada (with hot dog), double special (double longaniza and one egg), double egg (one longaniza and two eggs), and the heaviest of them all, the double double (double the longaniza and egg). They even serve just the crust which they call pinais.

In Vigan, one variation we got to taste was the one with cabbage served at Abuelita's Restaurant. I'm looking forward to my next serving of Ilocos empanada!