James-My Life In R/C Flying

Foam Board North American B-25 Mitchell Bomber Build Part 8

2020-11-30T11:19:00.000-08:00

**Foam Board North American B-25 Mitchell Bomber Build**

Part 8

Painting & Decals

Painting conditions:

8*C, raining heavy with chance of wind this evening. Followed by a drop in temp with the possibility of wet snow. We've painted in worse conditions. lol

The plans had several missing parts.. one of them was the tail gun compartment! I did some research on why the turret was on some planes up front and some at the waste. I noticed that when the turret was back it took the job of the tail and waste gunner.. The variant I found for this had a simple pendage.

Other variants had fake guns on the back and most had a retractable belly turret operated remotely from I guess the navigator station?

The turret was another part missing! What I did was I cut out a couple of cowling rings and started the process. I didn't really like what I had done but had looked for something better which never amounted to anything. Sometimes you can luck out in finding a product that has the right package shape.. (have 2 drawers full if various plastic packaging just waiting for a need to be filled) In the end what I did was cut a flat round plate, glued it on top then used a ton of spackle to mold the glass sides. Looks much better.

When I started laying the tape I ran the sticky side through my thumb to lessen the adhesion.

The shop is just too cold to paint! The paint dried but

Not happy with myself again! Should have waited 3 days at least before masking. Remind myself that it's a bomber which had to fly through flak. Damage was a constant and if the made it back alive it was a good day.

Invasion Strips. Were put on during the night with brushes or rollers and most likely the planes flew with the strips still wet! What a way to treat beautiful planes.

I made a blunder with not painting the nose section green. The silver paint is too close to the gray to be a good combination. Another problem which the cap of the paint is to blame I wanted metallic silver but got a Tremclad aluminum color.. the can was on the shelf with a display of color match items. :-(

Once all the detail paint is done I will go back to the main colors and touch up everything. I had to walk away form the job for a few days... I discovered the motors don't have the power to get the plane airborne, I located motors and esc's which I have to order so another delay.

Looks much better! Will blend the green in on the main part of the fuselage after the invasion stripes are dried. Just wished it didn't take so long to build and complete.

Front of hatch

I robbed the magnets from an old E-Flite airframe

Hot glued in place but it came off when I opened the hatch, then used CA to hold it in place.

Hot glued in place

.50 Caliber guns installed

All ready for the motor/esc swap

Maiden Flight

Third Flight

13th Sqd DC-3/C-47 Build

2020-11-15T14:26:00.000-08:00

**13th Sqd DC-3/C-47 Build**

C-47/DC-3

I found this through a friend of mine who shared the link with me. This would become my first scratch built twin featuring retractable landing gear.

The build pictures from the website looked very good but alas there were important pictures missing. The battery compartment was never shown and had to ask. This also has a missing skin right under the wind screen which had to be patched together to fill in the holes.

The Maiden Flight... The full size DC-3 has a problem with tip stalling. You never hear of it but it's true. The model isn't any different as you will see.

The plane is very strong and with practise I should be able to master it.

Foam Board North American B-25 Mitchell Bomber Build. Part 7

2020-11-14T21:54:00.000-08:00

**Foam Board North American B-25 Mitchell Bomber Build**

Part 7

Finishing the left over stuff.

What is being done here is I run a pen over the wing and scribe the hatch, then little by little it get's seated perfectly.

After what seemed to be a long time has paid off!

Bomb Bay Doors

(Test Model)

I scrapped the gear system because it had too many parts and was heavy.

Swapped out for 2 servo's.

Added a dome to the Navigators compartment. And adding more detail to the turret. The tail end of the fuselage got finished as well, all needs to dry then have to catch the weather to do the painting.

This is where I mounted my bomb door servo's.

Going to look for a bomb actuator unit which operates the door sequence and has a delay for bomb dropping.

Left side open

Right side open

Foam Board North American B-25 Mitchell Bomber Build. Part 6

2020-11-14T21:44:00.000-08:00

Foam Board North American B-25 Mitchell Bomber Build

Taking on projects with hidden problems, to solve and administer a solution so others can benefit.

Using FliteTest "Maker Foam"

Part 5

Finishing

Most of the plane is done now, it's time to start doing the bodywork and make it ready for paint.

For the general filling I use this product. It's lite and is easy to work with..

I might be the only one who uses an iron on foam board also use hot glue to fill structural areas. It does take a little practise and the results are amazing!

Ready for filler

Filler around the top to make a nice fillet and around the cowl to level off some dips between parts.

I haven't touched this Glaz spot filler in nearly 28 years! Brings back nightmares lol.

Don't try this unless you primered the foam board! I can't stand things not looking perfect... Keep telling myself it's a bomber and collects a lot of flak damage! That's the nice thing about warbirds they don't need to be perfect. I found a picture of ground crew taking a big thick brush and painting the invasion stripes on a Mustang. No masking... looked gross! But hay, it was done at the last minute and they flew them probably with the paint being still wet!

Light scuff to take bumps off and she is ready for paint.

Foam Board North American B-25 Mitchell Bomber Build. Part 5

2020-11-14T21:42:00.000-08:00

Foam Board North American B-25 Mitchell Bomber Build

Taking on projects with hidden problems, to solve and administer a solution so others can benefit.

Using FliteTest "Maker Foam"

Part 5

Installing Upper Skins, Flaps and Aileron Connecting

Angle cut about 1/2 inch to almost to the paper on the outer edge.

Cut the hinges for the ailerons and flaps. Used hot glue on the hinges to reinforce them from tearing.

Reinforcement spars hot glued in place.

How the skins go on: you bevel the leading edge from the paper to about 1/4" back then tape the the skin in place. Now mark where the inner edge stops on the spar and glue the tops of the spars and lay the skin in place. Don't glue the leading edge or the trailing edge.

Remove the tape and carefully glue the leading edge and the wing tip. I didn't bevel the entire wing tip area.

End result

On the trailing edge there will be a gap and you will need to cut and stack foam board blocks to fit between the top and bottom skin to strengthen it. I installed 2 inch rectangle block to be placed between the aileron and flaps.

The pod cones were easy to assemble with issues.

Foam Board North American B-25 Mitchell Bomber Build. Part 4

2020-11-14T21:27:00.000-08:00

Foam Board North American B-25 Mitchell Bomber Build

Taking on projects with hidden problems, to solve and administer a solution so others can benefit.

Using FliteTest "Maker Foam"

Part 4

Assembling the electronics and motors

I robbed the motors from a quadcopter: E-Max 650kv rated for a 20A ESC.

Landing Gear Strut Parts & Assembly

(In my opinion the springs are too soft)

The extra plate they supply is so you can mount the retract from the other bottom giving you a little extra length. I didn't realize that till later so I switched them around.

Sanded the blocks and epoxied then in. Added washers to one side to compensate for the dihedral.

I found the power pods were flexing. Without the skin they are incredibly weak!

I followed the way the author installed his landing gear but discovered the strut is way too tall! Best to leave the front to after the mains are installed then you can mount the retract in a better location.

Reinforcement runs beyond the second bulkhead. Glued with epoxy.

Struts are too short :-(

Ran into problems with the nose gear being way too long. I asked about the length of the struts used on another Mitchell and the answer was 3 1/2 to the axle. Also mounted the gear in the same spots but the front was way too tall. If I had to do the front again I would have dropped the nose gear inside the box.

At the rear the wheel when up will still give the flap mechanism plenty of room without interference.

Had to deal with panels that were way too big and not fitting the contour well. I had to splice in pieces on both sides. No glue on the wing skin or the front section of the cowling as yet. The motor's have to be moved about 1/2" out to give prop clearance.

The yellowing is from the 120 grit sandpaper.. I guess it's to show where it's been sanded and where it wasn't..

First 3 rings make up the cowl, all fit very well. The 4th fit real well too. But the 5th was a challenge.

Foam Board North American B-25 Mitchell Bomber Build. Part 3

2020-11-14T21:13:00.000-08:00

Foam Board North American B-25 Mitchell Bomber Build

Taking on projects with hidden problems, to solve and administer a solution so others can benefit.

Using FliteTest "Maker Foam"

Part 3

I ran the yardsticks and the 2x1/4 strips through a bandsaw to cut the weight down. I weighed each piece and marked them so to balance the wing as I went. Then I hot glued them in place.

Found that Staples carry yard sticks.

Another thing I did here was I cut out a piece of foam board 11cm wide and made that the center of the wing and the bottom skin is glued to this. The wingspan is 75 inches but if you glue the wing at the spars you will loose 3 inches in the process.

All spar sections were bound together with overlapping wood. They were epoxied into place. (The engine pods are taped on for the picture)

Your correct it's floor laminate. I have to use what I have on hand. No stores carry hobby grade plywood in our area!!

Wing bold downs. Epoxied in place.

Foam Board North American B-25 Mitchell Bomber Build. Part 2

2020-11-14T21:12:00.000-08:00

Foam Board North American B-25 Mitchell Bomber Build

Taking on projects with hidden problems, to solve and administer a solution so others can benefit.

Using FliteTest "Maker Foam"

Part 2

The bottom skin on one side had the servo hole inside the engine necel and the other panel was on the outside. I had to cut a new hole and then seal up the other with foam and hot glue.

The lower skin on one side had the servo hole inside the engine necel and the other panel it was on the outside. I had to cut a new hole and then seal up the other with foam and hot glue.

Coming together quick! After building some small planes it feels good to work on something as big as the B-25! Retractable landing gear has been ordered!

Forming the curve to the upper wing panel. Always remember that the foam board bends best with the grain. Bend with the waves. One plane I didn't realize that and the foam didn't want to bend and in the end I made quite a mess!

Foam Board North American B-25 Mitchell Bomber Build. Part 1

2020-11-11T16:55:00.000-08:00

Foam Board North American B-25 Mitchell Bomber Build

Taking on projects with hidden problems, to solve and administer a solution so others can benefit.

Using FliteTest "Maker Foam"

Part 1

Apple Pie B-25 Mitchell

Always wanted a good twin engined plane but couldn't afford one. After getting into foam board plane building through FliteTest building I started to search...

Instead of a very detailed build video where a person walks you through every step of the way, some planes you need to rely heavily on pictures. When the pictures are either missing or hard to discern the orientation this can lead to trying times. I had to search 2 forums to scrounge up needed data. The build had a lot of trial and errors along the way but judging from previous experiences I'm confident this will become a show piece!

Instead of showing my failed attempts at getting the box frame correctly aligned, here is the correct way it is to be. I learned when building a plane fuselage in 2 pieces can spell disaster because it is hard to get it straight. Best is to build as one piece.

Skinning begins. I decided to make the battery tray hatch composing of the entire nose cone.

Fitting the nose together is going along remarkably well!

As you can see I split the cockpit area to be removable with the nose.

The hatch slides in on alignment rails

Added balsawood formers to give strength because foam board isn't too strong.

I was tired and made a big blunder by installing the windscreen in the wrong place. I then realized that another strange piece was actually the cockpit roof. Ops!

Reinforcing the wing saddle plate. The ends go beyond the opening and past the first and last bulkhead. Glued with 5 minute Epoxy

The tail skin will fit very close but you need to lay a straight edge or a plate on top so as to get both sides equal. The author said that his plane was tail heavy and moved his elevator servo up front to compensate. In my humble opinion I don't think one servo in the back will make that big of a difference.

I laid the wing in it's bed and drilled 2 1/4" holes, installed 1/4x20 blind nuts on the back side. Then Epoxied the plate in.

First I tried taking the back edge of F-12 and the front edge of F-14 to try to make the part in Inkscape. I have the TimSav CNC foam board cutter. The part was way out and had to resort to making a template. First cutout was out and had to be adjusted. Second part fit.

There she is!

In most cases I'm really good at cutting and installing windscreens. I spent the whole afternoon cutting and trying to fit with no success! I got this one in near the end of the evening and all night I brooded over the looks of it. Grr

During the evening I realized that the canopy had to be assembled off the plane and so I cut more parts out and got it together!

This is what happens when there are no pictures to show each step. I stripped the one off the plane and cleared the hot glue with an iron. No pictures of that part...

Restoring a ParkZone Extra 300

2020-10-22T21:38:00.000-07:00

Restoring a ParkZone Extra 300

The fuselage was repaired many times and the landing gear was torn out. There were new wings, stab and landing gear mount and the cowl looked to be new as well. The plane came out about 10 years ago so the parts supply has dried up long ago.

The supplied motor was an EFlite Power 15 and an EFlite 30A ESC. I swapped out the motor to put in another airplane but replaced it with a ParkZone 960kv one.

I did the boiling water treatment to the fuselage and got the shape pretty close to factory. I hot glued a lot of the damaged areas up and pulled the servo's out because there was a lake of epoxy glue with the cords going right through the middle. Replaced the cords and tested them and back in they went.

I finely got tired of seeing it in pieces so on goes the new parts and repair the vertical fin with hot glue and then added 3/16 x 1/16 carbon fibre for strengthening. Now onto the next step.

This is what was left of the landing gar bay. A gaping hole.

Installed the new landing gear mount... there wasn't any marks to tell me where the mount originally was. After looking at pictures on the computer I dropped it in and hot glued the pegs to the fuselage. I also added a balsa dam to make up the air cooling hole and put a balsa floor in. The floor was temporary.

Purchased some spray foam form the local lumber store and filled it in. I let it dry overnight.

Covered the area around the landing gear with packing tape to minimize the mess the foam makes.

Temporary assembly to see how she looks.

Downloaded a picture of what the paint scheme looks like.

I lucked out on the paint. I went to the Dollar Store and purchased DecoArt orange to use to mix the color for the plane. I lucked out to find it was a perfect match!

I cut out blue sign vinyl to make the stripes and then used part of the old decal to make the lettering.

The fellow that I aquired this plane form said it wa a very hard plane to fly and even harder to land.

With that said I found some interesting history about this. The above picture, take a look at the wing tip. It appears that the wing was molded upside down! He said that it had to be floan to the ground otherwise it would tip stall and snap into the ground.

Several people tested this theory and found no ill effects either way.

Here is one of the test's this fellow did.

I'm not one to take chances so I decided to put on a stall fence on either wing to see if this would counter any evil traits it might have!

Maiden Flight Pending.

EFlite 1.2M T-28 Trojan

2020-10-21T19:01:00.000-07:00

Acquired an old EFlite T-28 Trojan 1.2M

Brief History.

I'm the 4 or 5th owner

Previous owner rescued 2 of them from a flooded basement and later became moldy.

Features or what lack thereof:

Flaps and Retracts.

Loaded 7 planes and a box of radio gear which a friend of mine was giving away. I was more interested in the servo's, motors and esc than the planes. They all were in very bad condition.

Stripped the airframe of the decals and broke the glue free from the flaps will try to get them operational again. The main landing gear wasn't even in the factory position and was also non retracting. It came with aileron, elevator and rudder servo's.

The motor is an EMax BL2815/09 960kv, needs bearings but runs good. The ESC isn't marked so don't know what size it is. :-(

There was a lot of foam compressions in the fuselage form crashes and hangar rash, the wings were in the same shape but were salvageable. I used the boiling water treatment for pulling out the dents then sanded the puffed up foam with 120 grit. I also used Dap Spackle Light Filler on the cracks and dents which made them magically disappear.

The decals I salvaged by wiping them off with paint thinner then later gluing them on with Weld Bond white glue.

I had some small bottles of grey interior house paint which turned out to be a very close match to the original color. I was intending to go all out and use MinWax Urethane then sand smooth and spray the color on but the budget during this pandemic was next to nil so I opted for the paint brush.

The second fuselage is all that was salvageable, the horizontal stab is repairable.

One aileron was ripped right off the right wing an the other was getting close to being the same, the elevator had one corner bent to the point of being broken. Rudder was broken off. I used WeldBond rubberized white glue to reattach them. I was very impressed on how they turned out.

The flaps I used large pin hinges and 2 EMax metal gear servos.

I found that the flaps didn't go down equally so I ended up using an electronic component used for twin elevator servo's which reverses to match the other also can change the endpoint if need be.

I ordered a set of retracts form HobbyKing

Main Retracts form HobbyKing

Nose Retract from HobbyKing

I printed off a radial engine scaled to match the opening and glued it to a piece of dollar tree foam board.

I did some research on the factory retracts from EFlite. They were $35.00 each and the quality was atrocious! All the reviews I found on different sites stated that they didn't last more than a few cycles and that's it. I read the reviews on the HobbyKing ones and for some reason they are long lasting! We will see.

Mating the wing halves together with the fuselage at the same time is quit the chore with all the wires being in the center of the wing and having to be fed up through a narrow slot in the fuselage. The wires kept unplugging on me so I ended out using a dab of hot glue to keep them in place.The mounting screws are very thin and the Phillips heads were nearly stripped out.. found I was missing a few as well.

Also noticed that the landing gear mount in the wings is loose making the whole area around the landing gear and flap very flexible! Not really sure how this will work on grass air strip? All I have in this is time, 2 servo's and retracts so if the wings give up the ghost on landing # whatever I got my money's worth out of it and the electronics will be gladly graphed into a foam board airplane. The landing gear I would love to put into my next major build. Can't dare order them again though, excellent price but with this pandemic an order form China usually takes 11-15 days which this order to 52 days!!!

Another problem is I can't order form the US because the boarders are still closed.

Made the gear doors for the main's from a bottom of a plastic basket I found at the dollar store. Made a clear plastic template for a guide and used an iron and heat gun to bend the plastic to match the fuselage. I also used 3/8th dowel hot glued to the gear strut then drilled and screwed the doors in place.

Maiden Flight might happen this Sunday..

Foam Board RAF S.E.5a WW1 Fighter

2020-10-17T20:10:00.000-07:00

Building the RAF S.E.5a WW1 Fighter

Out of Dollar Tree Foam Board

RAF S.E.5a

I started building the FliteTest planes in late 2018 starting off with the Goblin. After building several planes I started looking for different ones that are off in the fringes... What I mean is plans that are not FliteTest and have no build video. Why??? I have to ask myself that each time! Found this plane and downloaded the plans. With arthritis in my right hand I no longer can cut parts out using razor blades. Instead I purchased the TimSav CNC Foam Board Needle Cutter. which is a big help! With these plans I had a problem. To convert the PDF plan to GCODE you need to edit it through Inkscape 9.1. The pdf file wouldn't ungroup which means that each line can be edited out. I tossed this plan in the bin don't know how many times only to come back an try again. In the end I copied each line and make my own set of useable plans...it took about a week.

Later I learned to hold down command keys so the program can unlock plan it still took 20 minutes.

Once the plans were rebuilt and the gcode was generated I was able to start the build.

Once all the sheets were cut I started to build.

Up to this stage I had not given much thought on how I was going to proceed on the struts and center structure. I had completed a Stearman earlier and the upper wing mounting was very easy. But after a lot of thought I couldn't come up with anything better so I copied the authors plans.

The center structure is zap strapped to the top of the fuselage by this anchoring wire. There are 2 one front and the other back. I was pleased that all the wires I bent were of the same as the plan. Didn't have much wire to waste...

I used heat shrink tubing to assemble the framework due to not having the silver solder or fine copper wire to wrap the wires with.

Turtle deck wasn't a problem to install, made with poster board.

Landing gear placement on the plans required it to be farther back and held on by elastics. I looked at photos of the actual airplane and found it to be farther forward. The motor box has to be removable in order to get at the ESC and Receiver and so the problem was how to work the landing gear into the structure. What I ended out doing was making the landing gear foundation part of the motor box, allowing the landing gear to be removed with the box. The rear struts sit's under wood brace.

Elastics holds the rear inplace.

Strut mounts were made with standard servo straight arms with a 1/8th BBQ scure through the hole and hot glued in place. The struts were made out of clear pine I purchased at Home Depot. It was a 5'x6x3/4" plank that I cut down on my saw. On the center structure I added wood to give it character.

Plywood is becoming a premium here with the closure of many of the hobby local hobby shops. Even to find plywood and balsa on line is hard.

**The plan called for a lot of right and down thrust**

1100kv T Motor

Detailing!

Original upper gun placement. The rail on which it sits allows the pilot to pull the gun down and shoot much like a gunner would do.

I made the gun form pine and the barol form 1/8th dowl. The ammunition holder is a wooden cap, the rest is wire. The rail is model railroad track.

The real plane has ailerons on the top wing as well.. I might add them later if need be.

NAZA SK-450 Quad Recovered and Rebuild

2020-01-01T13:52:00.004-08:00

google.com, pub-2561519030642253, DIRECT, f08c47fec0942fa0

January 1st 2020

NAZA SK-450 Quad Recovered

It's been a very long time and never thought I'd see this quad again. It went on a very long flight back in May 21st 2018. The flight was nothing spectacular just flying around free as a bird at the club. I was flying around trees in the back 40 of the property and was in the process of flying over a tall Cedar tree. Only problem was that the quad didn't respond but went into failsafe mode. I didn't have much altitude and was behind the cedar. Next thing I know is it's chopping branches and then getting trapped! The motors were spooling at full throttle. Went to the site and found the quad to be up at least 65 feet and stuck close to the trunk!

Over the next several months I would venture out to the tree to see if it had moved especially after wind storms. Nothing even gale force winds weren't moving it! On one occasion I couldn't see it and scoured the branches for the tattle tail red decal on the sides but it was gone! On another occasion I found a broken prop blade at the bottom near the trunk. It was brittle from sun exposure. I thought it fallen out and someone found it and took it home. Was a hard pill to swallow at the time because the quad wasn't very old, had a NAZA Lite upgraded to V2, had 1100kv motors which would go into many Flite Test planes, 250 mw VTX and board camera.
Then today got a message asking if this was my quad and I fell over! Never in a million years did I think for a second I would ever see it again! Praise God, 2020 is starting to be a great year!
Rebearing the motors and replace the arms and she will hopefully fly again, although the motors need a new home.

Plugged in a battery and it flashed to life.

Including the FPV.

	January 4th 2020 Started a comprehensive overhaul of the airframe.
	Replaced:
	*Arms and all bolts, washed the frame parts with alcohol
	*Replaced: Receiver with a FrSky Futaba 7 ch
	*Replaced the main battery lead and plug and the power wire to the VTX
	*Cut and cleaned all ESC's and recovered them with heatshrink.
	*Replaced the canopy bottom and top.
	*Installed the motors form other quad.
	*Tested the motors and set the directions.
	Discovered the rear left ESC isn't working properly.

New Motors only because there was one motor which had a broken wire at the core.

New Arms

New Bolts

Cleaned PDB with alcohol, replaced the battery lead and plug, resoldered all the wires.

Cleaned the center board and replaced bolts with new ones

Ready for the bottom to go back on.

Video Power and Video input wires.

Clean and replace the canopy cover. If I had not used the container which came from the dollar store I'm sure the Flight Control, power unit and RX would have been destroyed.

Canopy mounted with GPS Declination set.

Replaced the Left Rear ESC after testing with a different motor

Ready for flight when the rain stops.

Maiden Flight

Flite Test Spear Scratch Build

2019-11-28T18:46:00.002-08:00

November 28th 2019

**Flite Test Spear Scratch Build**

First FliteTest Spear. Crashed on second flight.

Flitetest Spear Build

Last year I went on a Flitetest building spree. The second model I built was the Spear. I had the hardware form the Zagi in it and it flew quite well but the motor which was a lite 1000kv was tired. The poor plane only got 2 flights in when as I was flying in FPV mode a large fly or wasp distracted my attention and the next thing I see was the ground coming up fast!

The airframe was destroyed along with the Cyclops Flight Control and the Turnigy Action Cam. :-(

I kept all the wood parts and laid aside the gear and kept moving forward with other planes.

Recently I purchased a new SJCam SJ4000 and decided on replacing the airframe.

Printed off the "Tiled" Plans

The trouble with "Tiled" Plans is no matter how careful you are in assembling them there will always be some degree of discrepancy. The way to fix that is to lay both wing panels over each other and line up your leading edge and in my case the slots in the middle. Then sand the edges to match all the way around. Yahoo nice and symmetrical!?? Trouble is coming later on.. Grr!!

Reinforcement

Wing panels folded nicely. Note: I didn't have any plywood for the spar on the first build so I used hard grain balsa with two rods of carbon fiber. Survived one crash already. lol

Added reinforcements to the center spar box.

Oh what fun did I have with the wrap-around and hatch cover!! The FT video they explain to make it in 2 pieces using the width (20") of the foamboard. I didn't get the information till after when I laid it out on the length (30") When I tried to wrap the foam just broke at the nose!

The trouble I was mentioning earlier comes when I find out that the center is narrower than the wrap-around hatch plate. On the first plane I remember just cutting it down but finding the hole for the ESC was out. I had to custom cut a hatch plate which actually took me 3 try's before I got one to fit properly. Next plane will be a "Speed Build" kit!!

Finely it's done! Kinda forgot I had problems with the first Spear.

Added a popsicle stick to the chin for reinforcement

Had to rob the FT-MiG 3 of it's motor and RX. It only has 6 flights on her but is showing it's age quickly. Learned a lot last year and now the new planes all get updated.

Turnigy Plush 32 20A ESC and Turnigy Park 480 1020kv

HobbyKing Metal gear servo's. I see they actually require 9g servo's but don't want to have to replace servo's when the gears get stripped.

Installed a FatShark 600Mw VTX and for now have an SJ4000. Will install a regular camera for FPV and a cheaper DVR camera later.

I had thin gauge wire for the pushrods but there was a lot of resistance after hot gluing the aileron hinges. I later went over the hinge with the monokote iron and got them loosened up.

I had to add popsicle sticks to the outside of the first Spear hatch so this time I added to the bottom before a crease happens.

I still might replace the pushrods with the original thin gauge wire to save a few grams of weight.

I covered the entire airframe with clear laminate from the Dollar Tree. It's very thin but strong then I went over all the edges with hot glue and made a scraper to smoothin it to adhere with the covering.

Now it's time to scour the internet for a paint scheme. I always try too hard on dressing planes up only to have them ware out too soon.

I tried a design called "I could care less what it looks like" just to get the thing finished!

To my amazement it looks pretty cool!

Ready for it's maiden!

Flite Test P-40 Warhawk Build

2019-11-05T17:27:00.002-08:00

October 28th 2019

**Flite Test P-40 Warhawk Build**

P-40 Warhawk Plans

After several months of inactivity in building foam board planes I decided to take on the FT P-40 Warhawk. I had used the Dollar Tree white foam board but decided to give the Flite Test foam board a go.

The plans I had downloaded were the tiled type but procrastinated on assembly while I waited for the workshop to be completed. With better lighting and a large counter assembling the tiles was much easier and were very accurate. On other builds I found that the wing panels were different and had to adopt the rule to lay each panel against the other and cut the access off to make them the same. Although I did the same on this model there was not much trimming needed. Total time to assemble the plans, transfer to foam board then cut and prep the parts took around 10 hours spread over several days.

I started assembly on Wednesday with the laptop playing the FT build video.

Found the hot glue doesn't really stick well on the FT foam board, not like the basic Dollar Tree brand.

Added schicabob sticks to reinforce the wing tips. Saw someone's video of his build and maiden and he confessed that he dropped the plane and bent the tip. He went on to saying a new wing is being built. Also glued both panels together and added Popsicle sticks to reinforce the center. Then folded and glued the left panel down and cut the center of the right to fit perfectly.

Nice neat and clean!

Was very impressed with how easy the wing fit to the fuselage! no extra cutting needed.

Word of warning about the wires for the rear servo's.. With the receiver being in the power pod and the only way to access it is by removing the pod, you will need several extensions to allow the pod and the wires stay connected before slipping it into the fuselage. I was able to remove some extensions through the bottom rear vent hole. I don't plan on ever seeing the receiver for a very long time!!! :-(

I used their template for the canopy. What I did to connect the front together I used a very clear scotch tape. Gluing is out of the question! The plastic will get a white fog over the glue area wrecking the looks.

I taped the canopy in to position, having to readjust it several times before gluing. I would glue between the tape straps then remove the straps and finish gluing. I painted the inside with Dollar Tree paint which is water soluble. Was intending to paint the camo with that paint but the paint doesn't adhere at all due to the waterproofing.

I had to add the wing fairings! The plans don't have them but the MiG-3 does so I printed off the section and trimmed them down on the straight side till they fit.

The hatch on the chin is where the battery is. They showed their using elastic bands to help hold the pin's in place. After the Maiden flight when I got home I glued in Nyrod outer tubes to make bearing points so as not to destroy the holes.

In my collection of sign vinyl I happened to have some (not as much as I would like) beige for the camo.

Shark teeth would look awesome but I'm not that good at creating!

Installed landing gear and 50 Cal machine guns (after maiden flight)

I had to remove the camo to allow the letter to be seen better but unfortunately the letter didn't survive.

Built exhaust stacks form popsickle sticks and doweling. They are a bit undersized. Will make new ones.

I also used scotch tape on all straight edges to protect form paper pealing back. That's the one of the many problems with foam board

I moved the insignia up on the fuselage up a bit and removed the rear camo so the letter can be seen.

I have a friend printing me up a 2.5 inch Red spinner.

I found that the nose looks very chunky and discovered there were only a few planes built with this heavy chin. Most of them have the chin recessed back a little ways. This plane was flown in North Africa and with the sandy airbases and sand storms they needed a lot of filters for to protect the radiators.

I'm always trying to preserve the model as foam board ages incredibly quick. Adding a thread will help keep the the paper to the foam. If in doubt add a thin layer of white glue to bind it tight. I tried a mix of paint and white glue to the edges of red foamboard on a previous model but it didn't work.

Here is the finished product.

Used CA to anchor the thread and periodically as I went along.

Printed spinner is done!

Notched Chin

Shark Teeth

Upper air intake

HobbyKing Yihua 936 Soldering Iron Station

2019-10-01T22:26:00.001-07:00

October 1st 2019

**HobbyKing Yihua 936 Soldering Iron Station**

HobbyKing

Purchased this soldering iron station the other day bearing in mind that I'm playing Russian Roulette with quality. The soldering tip is very tiny but wow so far I'm impressed! I had used a Weller soldering iron which is fine for some things but for battery ends to thick wire FORGET IT! Haven't done any battery wires yet but bullet connectors are a breeze.

HobbyKing does carry replacement tips, Replacement Tips
When the tip is worn out I plan to drill and tap the end to take the Weller replacement tips... not sure if it will work but worth a try.
HobbyKing Reviews out of 10 pages of reviewers only one had a gripe to wine about.

Doesn't Last

Nov 15, 2018

Works well the first 10 uses. The soldering gun handle is made of cheap plastic and will start to deform and won't hold the heating element in place. After about 10 uses, you will have to tighten the plastic holding cap after each use. At about 20 uses, the thing is so loose the heating element is not in contact with the iron tip. Even at highest setting it barely melts the solder.
I would give it a high rating if they sell an interchangeable soldering gun, as the base is solid.

My opinion on this would be to turn up the heat to do the job and then turn the heat back down. It doesn't take long for the heat to come on anyway. So far I have used it 3 times and will mark down each time I use it to keep score.

1978 "Pilot RC" Cessna 177 Recovered from Time Capsule

2019-10-01T16:09:00.002-07:00

September 12th 2019

**1978 "Pilot RC" Cessna 177 Recovered from Time Capsule**

Way back when we first got into RC flying my friend and I started taking lessons on flying from an instructor at the Langley BC field, RCFCBC (Radio Control Flying Club of British Columbia) Our instructor was George Combs. Tom built Pilot Cessna 177 with 3 channels and an OS MAX .15 engine. The kit was very high quality stamp cut parts. We used a regular household iron for covering our planes and we also made our own fuel. We also didn't have electric starts so starting was a bit of a problem. Tom had to use Cox glow fuel to prime his to get it running, much like using nitrous oxide.

This is my Carl Goldberg "Falcon 56 MK II with a Fox .36 engine and Kraft 3 channel Series 78 radio. I got my plane before Tom and after trying to fly on my own, crashed in someones driveway. Tom on the other hand chose to take lessons with an instructor. I went down with him and his dad and quickly caught on to flying. After learning to turn and fly towards myself I went to the local airport to do some flying. It would be the first time I landed. The airport manager allowed us to fly on at the end of the field, he told us to be on the lookout for incoming planes which we did. I got 10 flights in and was proficient in takeoff's and landings.

Unfortunately a year after learning to fly, the falcon crashed and I decided to write it off but in hindsight it was totally fixable!! :-(

Tom flew his plane a couple of times at the airport then his interest shifted to windsurfing so he parked his plane. He is still doing it full time to this today.

George and Tom on the left

Stripped the covering off the plane and removed the tail feathers. The tail was slimy still from caster oil 41 years ago.

The stab came apart while in disassembling... rekitted itself.

The engine even turns over but it's a little stiff.

I spent a good part of a day sanding the remainder of the covering off then tried Acetone which worked a miracle on the rest of the parts!

Here is the stab reassembled. Note the crack on the left side of the elevator, this was hangar rash before I got it.

Fuselage and wing ready for covering

Was toying with the idea of cutting the wing in half to lower the dihedral and have ailerons. Not sure what my decision is yet.

The OS .15 Max cleaned up amazingly with Sea Foam! It had a lot of castor oil varnish all over it. The carburetor barrel was ceased but after a day in the solvent it came out. On the inside I saw a little free play in the connecting rod bushing... quickly reattached the rear cover and pretended I saw nothing! lol

New windshield and rear window templates.

Covering went along incredibly well!

Gave the interior a fresh coat of

Varathane

Start if the final color livery

OS Max .15 Engine

All that's left is the front and rear windscreen's and elastic dowels.

Glass Installation

How I do glass installation is straight forward. I start by taping the glass to the top and carefully bend it around the sides. Don't worry if you see cracks in the plastic that's normal and it is't damaged. Now take a sharp exacto knife and cut the covering away so the glue has a solid bond.

Once I'm satisfied where it sits, I drop a spot of CA between the tape starting at the top. Next I dab drops of CA to the front and if it seems good I continue around but not the sides. The glass I used was thicker than what I normally use and so it took more pressure to hold it down after gluing. Best to use a scraper to hold evenly while the glue flashes. Take the tape off as you go and fill the voids with CA.

I removed the wing dowels to make the job easier.

Almost Done!

Good as new!
Next is to use vinyl to cover the window frame.

The back window is much harder but same rules apply. I started by lining up the glass and then tape it in place on the top. Next I fold it back and glue the top edge, fold it back and hold the bottom down. Once that is done cut the covering away around where the glass will be glued. Start gluing the bottom in place then carefully bend the side where it needs to go and glue with CA. I use kicker as I go because it's faster and if there is any runny glue it will be prevented running where you don't want!

All Done!

Changed the color scheme a bit but still not happy with how it looks! Grr!!

Last to do is radio installation and engine setup. Not in a hurry to fly this one.

40 Year Old RCM RO8 Glider Rescued From A Time Capsule!

2019-09-12T16:48:00.000-07:00

September 9th 2019

40 Year Old RO8 Glider Rescued From A Time Capsule!

RO8 Plans

Way back in 1980 my friend Tom ordered the RO8 glider plans from R/C Modeler Magazine to kit and build it. He soon discovered that the hobby shop had the kit in stock so he purchased it and built it. The covering he used was Coverite iron-on fabric.
He had a Kraft Sport Series 4 channel radio on 72.960 with KPS-14 servo's, Rx and a 450Mah NiCad battery
We didn't have a high start for launching gliders but we flew off a small mountain catching the wind blowing up the hill. Tom's glider never seen any actual flying because the mountain site though was great, there was really no way to land without sustaining crash damage!
Tom was trying tow line launches with a friend running with the string. On one of the attempts the wing on the white side went into severe flutter which damaged the spar and the 3 stringers. He never attempted to fix it and the glider sat in his bedroom for the next 39 years. It would have stayed in state for another 20 years but his mother is 94 and moving to be with her daughter.

Installed Servo's and Hitec BEC set on 6v

Built a replacement canopy using 3/32 balsa sheet balsa cut into strips and laminated together with thin CA.

I took the plan from the website and blown it up on the computer held the fuselage against the monitor and increased the size till it matched the fuselage.

Held paper and traced it out. Didn't work very well because the I had intended to make sides then a top but realized I had to build it by lamination.

Now comes the wing! It took me a while to figure how I was going to tackle the damage. To do it with as little damage to the covering within reason.

Top Damage, not sure if the spar is bent or compressed?

Bottom Spar the same, I'm guessing it was broken since it was under stress!

Balsa stringers were broken, glued with thin CA

Now comes the fun part. Again used CA to glue the spar.

Then using a Dremel with a fine saw blade I slice cut a groove through the spar and tapped in a

thin strip of carbon fiber then poured thin CA into it.

With the top I just cut the slot and inserted the carbon fiber then CA on top. Repair Finished!

Or so I thought?

Now that the damage is repaired I can now move on to taking the warp out of the left side and she is finished! Reading Tom's e-mail again he mentioned the wing went into flutter! I had a glider wing go into flutter and broke all glue joints in both wings! Had a Zagi go into flutter and did the wing in!!

I decided that it was not safe just to leave the wing alone because it was incredibly loose compared to the right (red) side.

Again to make the least amount of footprint I could I used a pin and then a small Philips screwdriver to make holes around the joints. The glue was actually able to soak through the covering which I thought was odd.

After all the joints reglued and stinging eyes from the CA smoke it was complete! Again so I thought

Using the heat gun I twisted the wing panels to bring them back to straight but they just went back the way they were!! GRRRRR!!!!!

After careful thought i decided to take the white covering off and deal with the webbing between the spars which most likely were broken!

As this repair heads deeper into uncertainty I made the decision to strip the covering off and recover. Unfortunately I didn't have any 21st century Coverite and thought about using Ultrakote but would it be a good idea to mix coverings?

Glued all the webbing which actually were good, Tom used Ambroid glue which was what we used back in the day..

I decided to add bamboo stringers from the top and opposite on the bottom.

The wing was finely getting stiffer! On the outer panel the trailing edge was warped badly so I tried an age old method of straightening I soaked the wingtip down with water then held it in place like in a jig using a paint stir stick and weights to keep in position.

I checked the wing a few hours later and found the warp was gone and the wing finely looked straight!

I reinforced the stringers with white construction glue and left it for the next day!

Wing sanded and ready for covering. As I was cleaning the workshop and bench it dawned on me that maybe the white covering wasn't intended to be a stand alone but to be prepped and painted giving it the strength. Then I discovered a lead weight buried in the wingtip on the damaged side. The covering gave strength in two directions but not torsionally. This also was evident as the red side was fine! I think I solved a 40 year old mystery!

I covered the wing with Ultracote for Park Flyers which is

Does Your Flight Controller Have A Compass?

2019-09-02T15:18:00.000-07:00

September 2nd 2019

Does Your Flight Controller Have A Compass?

Yesterday I went to the club flying with the Armattan and the Tyro quads. I setup the Armattan to do a RTH & L test as I haven't done one since being recovered. I waited a long time and got no SAT's! I usually get a lock within a minute or so. This went on for quite a while before I gave up in anguish!
I checked all the wires and they all appeared good. When viewing the OSD I had the compass up so I thought the GPS is good to go but there was absolutely no SAT's.
When I got home I had to extend the battery leads on the quad because the new batteries were too short to reach. Around then I found one of the wires on the GPS was pulled away form the plug!
Fixed both and got SAT's!
Now out of this inconvenience I added the compass to the OSD of the Tyro. The Tyro does not have a GPS so there won't be a compass. Oh yes baby it does! According to the info on the net the Magnetometer is the compass. I also found that it isn't activated in BetaFlight and can't be activated because there isn't one.
Just thought I share this little glitch with you all.

Armattan Chameleon Goes Missing!

2019-08-29T11:21:00.003-07:00

August 29th 2019

Armattan Chameleon Goes Missing!

On July 1st 2019 I was flying the Chameleon at the club field. It's been a long time since I fully enjoyed a good long flight! I got so tired of the routine of pacing back and forth of the air strip that I started flying far out to the extreme ends of the property. As I was cruising along I switched on the OSD to see what the battery level was. Seeing it just above 13.-- something I decided to head straight back to the runway. As I was nearing the runway the quad decided to land which was how the Fail Safe was intended to do. In a flash the last thing I remember was the background of the barns and tree's!

My brain defaulted to an image that I saw so many times before that the quad went down here. (pictured above) Problems began to snowball as when I trudged out in TALL grass and not hearing the buzzer. All quads or small planes should have a buzzer so locating the aircraft is made very easy.

I was so convinced of it's location that I came out the next day and walked the entire half of the grass ocean. Grass was up to my waste in places! No sign of the quad... My legs were so badly cramped that I couldn't walk very well for several days.

Other members joined the search but were unsuccessful. We even scanned the search area with a metal detector with only locating a pop can and a large washer! Time was running out because the field was scheduled to be cut, raked and bailed very soon.

Our club president was showing me on his radio how he can track and locate a downed plane with his RSSI signal strength form his transmitter. I have the FrSky Taranis X9D and I was using at the time an S-Bus with telemetry but at the time I didn't have anything setup for telemetry. :-(

Another member friend showed me an add-on buzzer which has it's own battery which will last up to a couple of weeks. He lost his quad in the sea of grass and it was recovered by the land owner after the mower hit it! His quad is still flying today as it wasn't badly damaged.

I was praying that the only damage would be to the camera, a RioRand Action Camera with WiFi. and the 1300Mah LiPo. Then I was hoping that the guts would be spared and I would just replace the frame and motors...

The field got cut but there was no sign of the quad. I went to the next field over knowing that it was impossible to have landed there but given the no show in the main field I was resigned to search it too. There was no sign of it there either!

On July 24th I got a text message form a friend asking if this was my quad. Willy the land owner found it while raking. It was in a totally different location from where I originally thought it was. Then I started having flashbacks of the last moments of the flight. I was way off from the location I thought it was and was actually quite close to the runway by about 150 feet.

This is the damaged quad.

The camera and GPS was missing, battery wires torn off and the GPS missing. The frame was badly damaged with one arm severed and a motor missing. When I got to the field for Sunday flying I went to the area where the quad was located and there found shards of Action Camera. As I searched the area slowly moving farther out I came across the motor bell which was demolished. Soon I found the broken arm with the motor still attached. Still yet I found the Micro SD Card form the RioRand, it was broken in two but still attached.

I had brought the laptop to the club house to see the quad still had life which it did. The RX was dodgy though and had to be replaced. The frame I found replacement parts in Florida and compiled a list what was needed to get it back in the air. I decided to scrap the frame and go with a new one so I threw out the main frame bottom and the severed part. A week later I decided to try to repair the arm. Wasn't pleasant to dive into a stinky garbage can to retrieve the parts I tell you!!!!

Within an hour I had the broken frame back together! I traced out the shape of the quad onto cardboard and had to flip it over to make up where the part was missing. Then I screwed the frame down and aligned the broken part up exactly where it should sit then glued it with medium CA.

I reinforced the arm with a piece of flat carbon fiber on both sides. Sanded it a little then clear coated it. At this time I made the decision to reassemble it and forego the new frame which was on order.

Here she sits like new and test flown.

This is the Lucky Find Buzzer unit which is very light and will run for up to 2 weeks giving off a single beep every couple of minutes.

Replacement Action Camera, the Quelima SQ12 Mini 1080P FHD 155 Degree Night Vision Recording Camera

In addition to this I found out that the Taranis will pick up the RSSI signal and display the strength bar on the TX without any sort of wiring or programming.

Another backup is that I made a DVR station using a Quanum Diversity VRX and an Eachine DVR. Simple to use but needs a laptop to view the recording.

Rule 1 don't fly without a spotter! Rule 2 avoid flying over fields of tall grass, follow a path or road so recovering the aircraft will be quick and easy!

The battery that was lost was a China Hobby Line 1300Mah

The replacement is made by Tattu 1550Mah and bonus it's lighter!

Full Speed Bee Bee-66 Quadcopter

2019-08-26T17:15:00.001-07:00

Extreme Flight Edge 540 41" Major Fuselage Rebuild

2019-08-26T15:49:00.000-07:00

August 21st 2019

Extreme Flight Edge 540 41"

Went flying on Sunday, missed 3 spectacular crashes by the same pilot! Damn! This Extreme Flight Edge 540 41" was the worse of the three. The owner does a lot of his own repairs but this one he declined and pulled his radio and motor. I said I would take it but have no place to keep it. Before he left I took it but thought what on earth have I got myself into this time!

Most of the pieces were recovered before I got to the club but couldn't use any of them. I had the 30cc Yak-54 several years ago and grappled with ripped out landing gear and all kinds of other damage so this couldn't be any harder or is it?

Since this is an aerobatic plane the fuse must be bang on straight. Fun!

Stripped all the broken parts off but after that had my doubts on whether this can be resurrected

Started off by gluing the tail section to the board and tried to mate the front section to it. There was just too much broken parts in the way!

After careful consideration I stripped the rest of the side off and this is where I got thinking that it's just too badly wrecked to make it back!

I purchased a meter long 1/8 dowel to replace the bottom stringers. After the stringers were glued to the rear section I was able to use that to line up the front section. Unfortunately the building supply didn't have any more so I had to use shish kabob sticks and spliced them into the original balsa stringers.

I began gluing Popsicle sticks in place of the missing bulkheads. The only thing I had to use to make this line up was the turtle deck. If I it had be damaged this project wouldn't have been possible.

The motor box was destroyed before and the firewall was replaced but was a mess with it being not lined up properly.

Extreme flight has the lightest air frames available. All the balsa used is of very light and most of the time will break during handling as I found with the Yak. The sides are 3/32 balsa. I used a more dense sheets for added strength. Once the wing tube gets installed I will cut lightening holes close to the way they had.

Before the sides went on I glued 3/32 balsa to the top under the turtle deck then butted the balsa sides to that. I used Weldbond white glue for the sides and taped it into place and took it out to the car to dry. It was like an oven in there so it didn't take long for the glue to flash off.

Have to put the Edge to bed for a while till I acquire the covering, radio and motor.

Extreme Flight 41" Edge 540 in better days.

Not Solved! Eachine Tyro 79 Issues with Smart Audio and Changing VTX Settings!

2019-08-16T15:33:00.002-07:00

August 16th 2019

Not Solved! Eachine Tyro 79 Issues with Smart Audio and Changing VTX Settings!

Sorry I did think I had found the problem with the VTX settings!

This morning I decided to setup my standalone DVR on it's own VRX.

When I set the channel I got a blank screen after recording.

Turns out I got conflicting information.

In Smart Audio Frequency is 5865

In BetaFlight CLI the Frequency is default 5740

On the FatShark Binoculars is RB8 or 5917

I'm at a total loss on what to make of this!

LED Code on VTX shows max range on band, channel & power.

I started pressing the button on the VTX while monitoring the FatShark screen.

I got it to change channels but it seems there is only one channel that works; E7 or 5925

Set the VRX to 5925 which reads C7???

Tried recording and got a black screen!

Replaced the VTX with the AKK 25-600mw unit.

Eachine Tyro 79 Issues with Smart Audio and Changing VTX Settings! Solved!

2019-08-15T20:18:00.003-07:00

August 15th 2019

Eachine Tyro 79 Issues with Smart Audio and Changing VTX Settings! Solved!

This is a very cheap quadcopter. The Name number is what the US price supposed to be. I purchased this to replace the little 2.5 inch quad that flew off.

I wasn't planning to do a review on this since there are so many already done. I decided to give this a go and do as little maintenance as needed and just fly and have fun!

PRO's.

Powerful motors which don't heat up under load.

700 TVL Camera which is amazing!

Video TX power settings are from 25mw 200mw 500mw & 800mw!

Settings "can be changed" using Smart Audio and your goggles and TX.

Strong frame

Comes in under 250 grams!

My model came with correct plugs and wiring.

Earlier models had a lot of issues with hardware

CON's
Due to the tight squeeze for the FrSky XM+ receiver it can get damaged.

Motor bearings sit loose in the seats! They need to be glued in.

Smart Audio does NOT save settings even after saving and rebooting!

Disabling Smart Audio and using the button and following the coordinating LED flashes

doesn't work either! Defaults back to 25mw.

The only alternative is to replace the VTX and be done with it or setup the Taranis with telemetry

to do all the settings from there. Too many hurdles to go through!

I found a video on Youtube which was by chance... You can change the VTX settings using BetaFlight CLI.

Eachine's quality in this little quad is top notch in my humble opinion. Where can you buy a 3" quadcopter with everything for $116.09 Canadian? I expected to replace parts but found it to be a lot of fun to fly and it takes a lot of abuse and comes back for more!

The biggest issue form searching the internet is the Video TX

Don't be scared to buy this beast and have fun on a budget!

Eachine Tyro79 Quadcopter W/Mini Action Camera

2019-08-04T17:12:00.001-07:00

First Time test of the Quelima SQ12 Mini 1080P FHD 155 Degree Night Vision Recording Camera. Does have jello as it's only held on by a zap strap.

James-My Life In R/C Flying

**Foam Board North American B-25 Mitchell Bomber Build** Part 8

**13th Sqd DC-3/C-47 Build**

**Foam Board North American B-25 Mitchell Bomber Build. Part 7**

**Foam Board North American B-25 Mitchell Bomber Build. Part 6**

**Foam Board North American B-25 Mitchell Bomber Build. Part 5**

**Foam Board North American B-25 Mitchell Bomber Build. Part 4**

**Foam Board North American B-25 Mitchell Bomber Build. Part 3**

**Foam Board North American B-25 Mitchell Bomber Build. Part 2**

**Foam Board North American B-25 Mitchell Bomber Build. Part 1**

**Restoring a ParkZone Extra 300**

**EFlite 1.2M T-28 Trojan**

**Foam Board RAF S.E.5a WW1 Fighter**

**NAZA SK-450 Quad Recovered and Rebuild**

**Flite Test Spear Scratch Build**

**Flite Test P-40 Warhawk Build**

**HobbyKing Yihua 936 Soldering Iron Station**

Doesn't Last

**1978 "Pilot RC" Cessna 177 Recovered from Time Capsule**

Varathane

**40 Year Old RCM RO8 Glider Rescued From A Time Capsule!**

**Does Your Flight Controller Have A Compass?**

**Armattan Chameleon Goes Missing!**

**Full Speed Bee Bee-66 Quadcopter**

**Extreme Flight Edge 540 41" Major Fuselage Rebuild**

**Not Solved! Eachine Tyro 79 Issues with Smart Audio and Changing VTX Settings!**

**Eachine Tyro 79 Issues with Smart Audio and Changing VTX Settings! Solved!**

Eachine Tyro79 Quadcopter W/Mini Action Camera

Foam Board North American B-25 Mitchell Bomber Build Part 8

13th Sqd DC-3/C-47 Build

Foam Board North American B-25 Mitchell Bomber Build. Part 7

Foam Board North American B-25 Mitchell Bomber Build. Part 6

Foam Board North American B-25 Mitchell Bomber Build. Part 5

Foam Board North American B-25 Mitchell Bomber Build. Part 4

Foam Board North American B-25 Mitchell Bomber Build. Part 3

Foam Board North American B-25 Mitchell Bomber Build. Part 2

Foam Board North American B-25 Mitchell Bomber Build. Part 1

Restoring a ParkZone Extra 300

EFlite 1.2M T-28 Trojan

Foam Board RAF S.E.5a WW1 Fighter

NAZA SK-450 Quad Recovered and Rebuild

Flite Test Spear Scratch Build

Flite Test P-40 Warhawk Build

HobbyKing Yihua 936 Soldering Iron Station

1978 "Pilot RC" Cessna 177 Recovered from Time Capsule

40 Year Old RCM RO8 Glider Rescued From A Time Capsule!

Does Your Flight Controller Have A Compass?

Armattan Chameleon Goes Missing!

Full Speed Bee Bee-66 Quadcopter

Extreme Flight Edge 540 41" Major Fuselage Rebuild

Not Solved! Eachine Tyro 79 Issues with Smart Audio and Changing VTX Settings!

Eachine Tyro 79 Issues with Smart Audio and Changing VTX Settings! Solved!