Jamie Ralph - Furniture Making

(10) Tram - Let's make some steam & (nearly) final wiring diagram

2017-06-14T16:00:00.000+01:00

This blog will be all about the electronics that drive the tram. It is a bit more text heavy so apologies, although there are a couple of videos!

A lot of the electronics were built during the summer holidays, however throughout the year bits have been added and also removed. Below is the wiring schematic so far, but before we get to bogged down lets look at all the components including the newest part, which was an impulse build - the steam box generator.

I have to say this was not completely my design, and there is a fantastic DIY guide to follow if you wish at the below address:

http://www.wicksteedparkmbc.com/smoke-generator.html

The main difference between the two designs is the water container and how it is controlled, but more on that later.

Here is one of my early prototypes, after changing the water container a couple of times due to not being enough space for the mist to collect above the water. It is a simple design with a PC fan creating draft, which pushes the water vapor up and out of the plastic tube. I also looked at what difference having different sized fans made to the effect.

Here is the test footage, which shows it doing a pretty good job. This is when I started to think how the effect would be vastly improved by having a variable speed, so the faster the motor is going, the more 'steam' is produced. This led to me to test running the fan from the connection which powers the motor, and it worked great - apart from one issue! With this setup, the PC fan sped up and slowed with the motor, but now when the tram is stationery the fan would switch off, producing no 'steam' at all. I played around with the idea of having two fans, with one permanently on and mounted above the other. Another problem I had was the PC fan produced far to much draft when the tram would be stationery. This took me a couple of hours head scratching, but then I had a brain wave.

And this was it, a simple 24V Relay. Check out the wiring diagram below, but the basic idea was to have two power supplies running to the fan, one that was constantly on as soon as power switch was turned, and the other running off the motor power supply. This also powered the magnetic coil, so when enough voltage was applied, it would switch the relay and supply the power from the motor. This worked great, but I was still having the issue of to much draft, which was simply solved by adding a potentiometer into the 'always on circuit' allowing me to adjust the speed of the fan at stationery.

I popped it all in a (very tight fitting) project box. I also added a switch which the fan and misters are wired to, so I can switch the smoke generator off and still run the tram if required.

And this is the final design. The space within the tram is very snug, seeings as I have two batteries (running a 24V system), vs the original design running from one battery (12V system). This led to an interesting dilemma of being able to fit a water container that also had enough space to mount the PC fan. This led to an L-shaped box which was laser cut panels glued together, with a clear acrylic lid on top. A second mister was also added to help produce even more 'steam'.

And this is it, in this video I show the variable speed just from adjusting the potentiometer rather then using the relay and the motor speed controller. The only reason for this is I only had one hand free and it was easier! Once the main body is built and rolling I will post a video showing that circuit working.

This is the circuit diagram you have been waiting for. Apologies for it being rather crude, but I designed it really for the school parents day, and wanted to make it as easy to understand for students and parents as possible. I have separated the main electronics and the newly added smoke generator, just to make it as easy to understand as possible as it has nearly as many components as the main circuits! I think it is pretty straight forward, but let me know if you need any more information.

(9) Tram - Building the bodywork

2017-06-02T10:32:00.000+01:00

The bodywork began by using the dimensions from the 'Going Electric' article (below), but updating them for my design.

Going Electric Article

I used this information to design a CAD drawing, which i could use to produce plywood templates on the laser cutter, including the final design for the control board

My next step was to produce the beach blanks that would clad the entire body. I began by ripping some strips of scrap Beech on the table saw down to 5mm

Another shot of the strip ripped down with the plywood jig behind

This then needed to be thicknessed down to the correct dimension of 3mm and to remove any saw marks. To do this each strip was stuck on to a crap piece of plywood with our CNC double sided tape. They could then be fed through until the exact thickness was achieved.

The strips were then passed back through the table saw to produce planks of the correct width

Showing some strips all cut to the same thickness and width

The last step was to pass them under the overhead router. This was done to produce a slight bevel along the two long edges, which creates a more realistic plank effect when they are stuck side by side. A similar process was done to produce the square framing section.

A snapshot of testing the laser cut plywood body panels

Testing the correct thickness of the planks against the body

Beginning to glue on the planks which have been cut and sanded to size

The finished front end of the Tram with the light fitted

The new control unit being glued up

The nearly finished control panel (just missing the horn button)

Picture with side panel half glued up.

Nearly there - one more side to go!

(8) Tram - It's all about those buffers

2017-04-21T17:12:00.000+01:00

This post is all about manufacturing the buffers. Below is the beginning of the drawing which I updated into mm ready for turning.

Dimensions half way through being converted (to make it easier as I have multiple buffers to make)

This is the buffer head, which has been taken from a round bar. I have already faced off one end, center drilled and I am now drilling it to the final tapping size

Tapping the buffer head

It has now been screwed onto a bar which I had previously put a thread on. This is the blank that can now be turned true

Turning down the outside of the buffer head

By setting the cross slide at a particular angle (15 degrees), the profile of the buffer head can be seen to be taking shape

The buffer now in the jaws, with the shank cleaned and ready for the steps to be turned

The final buffer ready

I have now moved onto looking at the buffer casings. Taking a round bar I created the profile required using a variety of tools

Another picture of the profile more complete

The profile complete, center drilled awaiting final stepped drilling

Drilling in progress

An 'Exploded' image showing how the buffer all fits together

The buffer dry assembled inside the buffer case

A hole in the frame has been drilled, tapped and the buffer casing is then screwed into place and finished with a nut (not pictured).

The finished buffer in place

(7) Tram - Getting the wheels turning, Hook fitting, 3D Printing & UniPart Rail

2017-02-08T16:43:00.000+00:00

A few things have happened over the last couple of weeks.

I have started to get the wheels turned from the blanks, 3D printed a case for the control unit, and also went on a great tour of the facilities of UniPart Rail!

Wheel clamped in the center lathe with the profile started.

Showing the wheel out of the lathe and how it is still over sized.

Filling the hole that was drilled to take the front hook

A 3d printed case which has been designed to house all the speed control electronics

The first poster in UniPart Rail describing all that they construct and repair

Inside a points control unit

A finished crossing warning light ready to ship

Overhead power unit that is used on the EuroTunnel crossing

(6) Tram - Holiday snaps, Grateful Gifts & Some Axle Boxes

2017-02-01T11:44:00.000+00:00

We recently went on a holiday down in Devon and stumbled across a brochure for a round Robin tour including Boat, Bus, Steam Train. If you are in the area well worth a visit! http://www.dartmouthrailriver.co.uk/tours/round-robin

Totnes puzzle postcard.

The Dartmouth Steam Train (Lydham Manor).

A piece of display 5" Track which has been kindly loaned from the previous Technician for when the frame / chassis is complete to run along.

The beginning's of the axle boxes. They are machined from a square piece of aluminum, and then using the milling machine the slots were cut.

Another view of the milling machine with the cutter in the foreground.

Once the slots are in place, it was over to the center lathe for parting, facing off and drilling. Pictured is the center drill being used. Once the hole was drilled a reamer was used to get the hole perfectly round and to the correct size.

The Axle box covers are cut by hand and then filed to the profile of the axle boxes. They are then drilled for a M2 bolt using a mini pillar drill for complete control.

Axle boxes being tapped for the M2 bolt

The last step is to push fit the Oilite bushings in ready for the axles.

(5) Tram - Lets get welding

2016-11-04T08:53:00.000+00:00

I have been neglecting this blog a little bit, with the amount that has been going on in regards to GCSE and A-Level student work, plus the house I am currently doing up and also getting married - there is no spare time left!

This will be rather a long list of pictures with just a little snippet of each one, enjoy :)

The angle bar being cut to profile ready for welding

The frame has been welded together ready for riveting

Marking out the side frames with scribe, odd legs etc

Drilling parameter holes ready for hacksaw and then filing down

The side frames complete and ready for riveting

A few extra bits ready for future stages - Wheels and drive!

(4) Tram - The Chassis continued

2016-10-17T19:07:00.000+01:00

As mentioned in the previous post, I have now cut the axles, driveshaft and buffer beams. I also faced the axles of on the centre lathe ready to be turned down to meet the wheel bore and bearing.

To cut the buffer beams I used a metal bandsaw, and used a file to remove any burs.

The other thing that was made is the angle brackets for each corner of the angle bar.

(3) Tram - The Chassis

2016-10-10T13:37:00.003+01:00

The next stage is to begin to build the chassis. A handy hint I learnt from Dave was to spray the metal sheet with white primer, so it is much easier to see you markings!

Now it is on to cutting the axles, driveshaft and buffer beams.

(2) Tram - The control panel

2016-10-03T13:37:00.000+01:00

I have spent some of the summer buying, designing and building the components to create the control panel, which has now been finished.

It powers a 300w motor, with a detachable controller, dead switch, power monitors for each of the 12v batteries, lights and reverse switch. See the video for it in action!

(1) The tram locomotive build begins

2016-08-19T12:07:00.000+01:00

After getting some advice and guidance from the previous DT Technician at Bootham (who still pops in every week!), I have decided to start the tram project. Hopefully I will keep this blog up to date, as I have not really done any metal work before.

I have attached a few pictures of the upcoming project, and of the 5" locomotive he built. It will look very similar as we have managed to find the plans that he used.

Checkout my latest pieces....

2015-05-04T20:17:00.002+01:00

I have been rather busy for the last few months, but I have finished a couple of new pieces of work, which you can checkout on my website www.Furniture-Making.co.uk...

LIME Award Commission

2013-11-21T20:18:00.001+00:00

This is a rather belated post due to other uni commitments, but at the beginning of the year I entered a competition to design Leeds Institute for Medical Education (LIME), which was presented to five members of staff for outstanding commitment to teaching.

My main focus for the piece is two hands 'passing' knowledge from a old hand to a young one, with the knowledge being symbolised by a glass heart with the medical symbol (Asclepius).

The hands are made from cold cast bronze, and supported by acrylic rods mounted in a spalted beech stand.

Pictures follow:

Christening Gift - Stool

2013-07-09T19:02:00.004+01:00

Here are the Pictures of the completed Stool:

OUFM203 - Final Photo's

2013-07-09T17:46:00.001+01:00

Here are the long awaited (and much delayed) final professional and personal photo's that have been taken of the expanding dining table closed and open. It has been stained dark walnut, and then waxed with beeswax.

OUFM203 - Update on table

2013-05-30T20:27:00.000+01:00

Hi sorry for the lack of posts recently, as after the last post I have had significant problems, meaning I haven't had the time to update the blog. I have included photos of all the major steps that have happened since, so you can see the progress I have made.

OUFM203 - Twenty Two

2013-05-03T21:00:00.000+01:00

Today was the first major day that my design hit some significant problems due to strength and wood movement of the tabletop. This means that devices and components that were previously going to be attached to the underneath now need to be constructed within their own frame.

Due to the complexity of the issues they are hard to explain and even harder to fix, taking most of the day to try and solve. I decided by the end of the day to spend a couple of hours on something else to help clear my head, and so below is a business card and debit card holder I created, included my logo engraved on the corner.

Above: Business card holder (Left), Debit/Card Holder (Right)

Above: Close up of Debit / Card holder

Above: Logo branded on bottom left corner

Above: Close-up of Business Card Holder

OUFM203 - Day Twenty & Twenty One

2013-05-02T18:32:00.000+01:00

I have compiled the last two days footage and blog posts together as I was carrying out basically the same task over the two days.

The main task I was carried out was actually fitting two hinges into the smaller leaves. This took slow long as I was worried it might split along the edges, but after taking my time and fine tuning the depths they now sit perfectly flat, with little to no gap when open.

Above: Hinges fitted and folded nearly shut

Above: Hinges fully open

Above: Close up of hinged joint

Above: Hinged leaves compared to rest of table top

OUFM203 - Day Nineteen

2013-04-30T16:29:00.000+01:00

Today's main focus was on the completing the first joint of the legs, and then I moved onto making a Soss Hinge Jig which was the exact size for one of the leaves. This allowed me to get the spacing perfectly accurate on both pieces, as this is crucial to get a perfect hinge.

Overall this was an easy enough set-up which I cut using the laser cutter, and then fine tuned with sandpaper and the mini-bobbin sander to get a wide enough opening. The main problem with this set-up is the deep mortise that is required is too deep for the router, so I have to hand chisel the depth required.

Above: Leg joint finished

Above: Hinge test fitted using jig

OUFM203 - Day Eighteen

2013-04-29T15:06:00.000+01:00

I started the week off by carrying on with the legs of the table, including the finger joints. The biggest problem I found was that the wood has further shrunk, meaning the joints have become slightly loose, but hopefully that will correct itself once out of the workshop.

The main task I carried out was making a MDF mock-up of the stool, which can be seen below:

Christening Gift - Stool

2013-04-28T16:48:00.001+01:00

So me and my partner and been asked to be God Parents for Tianna, my little cousin. For the gift I have decided to make a stool, which has been designed by us. The important part of the design is to make it so it can be disassembled, as they live in Australia! Below are a couple of quick renders to show the idea:

Final Trip to Thorp Perrow

2013-04-26T16:42:00.000+01:00

Today was the trip to view all this years installed pieces that were created, but it was also the last visit due to the course shutting.

Whilst there, we met the outdoor playground carpenters Alastair Guy and Sons, who who fantastic, explained the project, let us have a sneak preview and even take photos. This reminded me of something similar of what I am helping to craft during the summer, so I have added picture to this post:

OUFM203 - Day Fourteen to Seventeen

2013-04-26T16:21:00.000+01:00

The last few days have been carrying out rather similar tasks, which was beginning the joinery for the legs. I first began by doing this by hand and then I decided it would be easier to remove the majority of the waste with the bandsaw, and then clean them up with a chisel and sandpaper.

This was not particularly accurate so after speaking to one of the tutors, I began to use the tenoner. This required me to take the cleaning brushes out to fit them through, but this was much more accurate. This took the majority of one day to get the measurements correct.

The two biggest problems I had was the machine kept cutting out, which wastes a lot of time, and that the tenons on the legs on the machine can only be cut to 60mm, whereas mine need to be 100mm, so I have to take the rest of by hand.

OUCE255 - Poster Comparison

2013-04-21T15:34:00.002+01:00

Design 1:

Although the first design adequately visually describes the event being held, it could be greatly improved and changed to be much more effective. The first change I would make is the font used for the title of poster. It is very simplistic, so although it is easily readable, it could be a more aesthetically pleasing font, with the possibility of a wider range of colours. The use of capital letters, in this case is fine, but it should be limited to just the title, and not any other text, as it is much harder to read text which is in capitals.

I feel that there could possibly be more information regarding the event on the poster, such as a small quote, from possibly a philosopher in the furniture making field, to add a little context and interest to the poster, and would possibly make people stop and study the poster further.

Another issue I have with the poster is the amount of white empty space surrounding the main picture, and the way she blends in, almost making her look like a floating head. I feel that the background could be a slightly different shade, emphasizing the main purpose of the poster.

The final point that I would change is the information regarding it's location. Depending on where the poster is located, whether it be within the college, or external to the general public, as it doesn't tell you which building, and where the exhibition is taking place within the college.

I like the concept of the person vs the size of furniture but I feel that the space is taken up to much of the person, and could of been a close up of her hands, or possibly an eye looking through gaps within the furniture.

Design 2:

Design to seems much more aesthetically pleasing, with one of the main reasons being the use of the magnifying glass to highlight what the event is about, without taking the emphasis off of the pieces, unlike the first design. It also is laid out much better then the first design, with the image being framed from the bottom right hand corner. The space is also filled well, with very little white space on the page.

I also like the use of the text rapping around the magnifying glass, as it grasps the audiences attention, although I am not sure if the font is appropriate, as it doesn't really match the rest of the text.

I still think that there should be more information in regards to what the exhibition is about, its location, and possibly a quote relevant to the exhibition. Finally I wouldn't include the whole images of the pieces, but possibly close-up shots so it still leaves a lot to be seen and understood, but gives the audience a taste of what to expect.

OUFM203 - Day Thirteen

2013-04-19T21:33:00.000+01:00

I carried on working on the slides today, and it took me all morning to set up the overhead router, as this allowed me to carefully adjust the slides to make them a perfect fit. I had to make a custom fence, with mounts to hold the pieces in place, which is shown below.

After this I used a hand router, table router and dowels to create the locking mechanism which stops the slides from just pulling out of place.

Above: Custom fence on overhead router

Above: Pieces clamped ready to be routered out for lock

Above: Slide finished, shut

Above: Slide finished, Open

OUFM203 - Day Twelve

2013-04-18T20:49:00.000+01:00

I really wanted to make a full size, test slide, with my own locking mechanism as I had only made a quick small one out of pine, and so I am not sure whether it is going to function properly.

After laying out all the components to make sure they would fit correctly, I then began looking at the slides. I first thicknessed some spare material to size, and then used the table router, straight bit and a dovetail bit to make the slots that the slides would go through. I first set the fence, and then using the straight bit removed the same distance from all the pieces. I then moved the fence slightly to widen the groove, and keep all the pieces identical. I first used a straight bit to reduce the stress on the dovetail bit, that I then used in similar fashion.

This took a long time to work out correctly, so that's all I managed to get done today.

Above: Components laid out in place

Above: Three pieces with Dovetail Grooves