Janice Elaine's Tutorials

Cross-Hatch Quilt Top Tutorial

2021-05-03T15:18:00.000-07:00

Cross-Hatch Quilt Top Tutorial

Fabric Requirements

(24) FQs.

(1) yard White Fabric

(1) yard Black Fabric

(.5) yard of Gray Fabric

Cutting Instructions

For Blocks

Cut (20) 6” squares from the Black and from the White fabric, total of 40.

Cut (8) 8.5” squares from the Shadow/Gray fabric, for the Setting Triangles; cutting each square on the diagonal, twice.

Cut (2) 4.5” squares from the Shadow/Gray fabric, for the Corner Triangles, cut each square on the diagonal.

Cut (4) 5.5” squares from each FQ, plus 7 more from your favorites, total of 103.

(If you use less FQs, just be sure to cut a total of 103 squares.

Sewing Instructions:

1. Using the 6” squares of Black and White fabric, make 40 HSTs, using the 2-at-a-time method, true-up to 5.5”

2. Using the photo as an example, lay out the pieces, triangles, squares, and HST. Pay attention to the orientation of the HSTs. Also, try to lay the 5.5” squares so they alternate light, dark, light, dark.

3. Starting at the upper left-hand corner, stitch the rows together, you’re working on the diagonal, of course. Press the seams of the rows containing HSTs to the left, and the rows with just squares, to the right, for easy “nesting”.

I did 2 or 3 rows at a time, then joined them, adding to the total as I went.

Endless Squares Block

2020-02-14T14:00:00.000-08:00

Above is the youtube video from AFG Fabrics of how to sew this block. You can find their post here. I thought it was really helpful, but there are no fabric requirements included, so I listed everything you need to make one block below. So now you have both visual and written instructions.

Fabric Requirements:

Fabrics A and C, a 10” square for each
Fabric B and D, a Fat Quarter

Cutting Directions:

(1) 3 1/2” square from Fabric A- Fussy Cut on point
(8) 3 1/2” squares from Fabric B
(2) 4” squares from Fabric B and C
(4) 3 1/2” x 10 1/2” strips from Fabric D

Block Instructions:

1. Take a 4” square from Fabric B and C . Place right sides together. With a straight edge draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of the fabric.

2. Sew on each side of the line at 1/4" . Repeat this process with your remaining 4" squares from Fabric B and C.

3. Cut on the diagonal line and press HST’s open.

4. Trim to 3 1/2". You will now have four 3 1/2” HST’s.

5. Sew two 3 1/2” squares to each side of your HST’s. Make sure you sew squares to the Fabric C side of your HST’s
.
6. Trim squares leaving a 1/4” seam allowance! (Feel free to leave as is and trim when the block is complete.)

7. Repeat this process to get four units.

8. Take your fussy cut 3 1/2” on point and sew two 3 1/2” x 10 1/2” strips to each side.

9. Next take two triangle units and sew a 3 1/2’ x 10 1/2” strip in between.

10. Repeat this process for your remaining strip and triangle units to create the other side of your block! Sew together the three sections matching up seams.

11. It’s time to square up your block and your Endless Squares Block is complete.

Currents Quilt Top

2020-01-31T14:38:00.000-08:00

Kona Fabric used: A-Windsor, B-Enchanted, C-Splash, D-Cyan, E-Aloha, F-Oasis, G-Lagoon, H-Bordeaux, I-Sangria, J-Crocus

Cutting Background:

Fabric A, B, E, F: (9) 6.5” squares

(2) 6.5 x 3.5” rectangles

Fabric G, H, I, J: (8) 6.5” squares

(4) 6.5 x 3.5” rectangles

Fabric C & D: (10) 6.5” squares

Cutting HST:

Fabric C: (14) 3.5” squares

Fabric E: (18) 3.5” squares

Fabric F” (16) 3.5” squares

Fabric G: (18) 3.5” squares

Fabric J: (16) 3.5” squares

Assembly:

1. Draw a diagonal line on each 3.5” square. If using prints, draw it on the reverse/wrong side.

2. Working on two columns at a time, A-B, C-D, etc. sew the 3.5” squares to the appropriate 6.5” square, or 6.5 x 3.5” rectangle. Trim excess and press the seams from the A column toward the center and the seams from column B toward the outer edge.

3. Stitch the A and B pieces together, press seams from half the units left and the other half to the right. This makes it easier to nest the seams.

4. Following the layout, stitch the units together to make the first two columns complete.

5. Repeat steps 2 thru 4 to assemble the 5 columns of flying geese, then stitch all 5 columns together.

The finished quilt top is 60.5" x 60.5".

12" Bow Tie Block

2019-07-14T12:39:00.002-07:00

Use five fabrics for this block, four for the bow ties and one for the background. You'll be making four 6.5" bow tie blocks and stitching them together for the completed 12.5" block.

Step One, Cutting:

Background Fabric: (8) 3.5" squares
Bow Tie Fabric: for each quadrant, (2) 3.5" squares and (2) 1.5" squares; for a total of 8 of each size.

Step Two, Assembly:

1. Draw a diagonal line on the reverse of each 1.5" square
2. Pair each 15" square with a 3.5" BG square, aligning at one corner.

3. Stitch on the drawn line, use a scant 1/4" seam throughout; this is a great time to chain-stitch, then trim the excess, 1/4" from the stitched line. Repeat for all the BG squares.

4. Press to set the seam, then press the seam allowance toward the BG fabric.

5. Arrange the 3.5" BG squares with the 3.5" Bow Tie Squares, as shown, press the initial seams toward the Bow Tie fabric. Nest the seams and assemble the 6.5" unit. Take the time to true-up the blocks to 6.5".

Step Three, Final Assembly:

Now the fun begins. There are several ways to assemble this block, just choose the look you want and go for it. Here are my four blocks.

And my "helper", Ben!

The Giving Love Quilt Tutorial

2019-01-22T13:13:00.002-08:00

I decided to make a different layout for the TVMQG Donation Quilts. This one uses (13) 12.5" BOM blocks and (12) 12.5" HST blocks.

If you plan to make this quilt top, be sure you have (13) 12.5" blocks ready to go. Now, the only thing left to do is make the HSTs, lay everything out and stitch it all together! Easy, right?

We're going to be using the 4 at a time HST method.

Fabric:

For 1 quilt, you'll need 1 1/3 yards of each fabric, and you'll have some waste
For 2 quilts, you'll need 1 3/4 yards of each fabric and (26) 12.5" BOM blocks

The directions below, are for 1 quilt. Just double the units for 2 quilts.

Cut:

(3) 19" x 19" squares of Kona White
(3) 19" x 19" squares of Kona Marine

Construction:

Place one white square and one blue square together and pin all four edges and the corners. Lately, I've heard a few quilters state, "I never use pins", for this, please pin, a lot!

Stitch around all the outer edges, using a scant 1/4" seam.

Do this for all three sets of squares.

Cut each set on the diagonal, twice.

Press the HST open, press the seam toward the dark side. If you use starch or Best Press on this step, you'll be happier, due to the bias nature of this block. True-up each HST to 12.5 inches.

This is the diagram that helped me lay out the blocks correctly. I highly recommend numbering the rows, once they're stitched together. This layout could go askew if you mix up the rows.

After the rows are assembled, press the seams of the odd-numbered rows in one direction, and the seams of the even-numbered rows in the opposite direction. Left, right, left, right left.

Stitch the rows together, and voila, you have a 60" x 60" quilt top!

These are my "helpers", Ben and Frisco!

Woven Block

2019-01-06T13:42:00.002-08:00

Woven Block

You can use a mix of prints for each color or use the same print, your choice. I like a little bit of mix, as illustrated by my blocks.

Cutting for one block:
Color A: (5) 4.5 x 2.5”
Color B: (4) 4.5 x 2.5”
Low Volume or white: (18) 4.5 x 1 3/4”

Sewing: (Be sure to use a scant 1/4" seam allowance, or your finished block will be too small.)
1. Make 5 Color A squares:
Stitch a low volume strip to each long side of a color A strip. Press the seams open. Trim to 4.5” square.
2. Make 4 Color B Squares:
Stitch a low volume strip to each long side of a color B strip. Press the seams open. Trim to 4.5” square.

3. Layout the 9 blocks, alternating colors, and directions. Pay attention, is easy to mess up!

4. Join each row, press the seams in the outside rows away from the center, press the seams in the center row toward the center; then join the rows together, press the seams toward the center.

5. True up to 12.5” square

May your bobbins always be full,

Plaid Block

2018-08-11T11:36:00.000-07:00

Plaid Block

I modified this block from the Boulder MQG's July BOM.

Use 4 fabrics for this block, I used White, Black, Gray and a print for the fussy--cut center.

Step One Cutting:

Cut fabric pieces from your chosen fabrics.

Fabric A (white):
(8) 2.5” squares (4) for 4-patches, (4) for the center
(4) 2.5”x4.5” rectangles

Fabric B (gray):
(8) 2.5” squares
(4) 2.5”x4.5” rectangles

Fabric C (black):
(4) 2.5” squares

Fabric D (for fussy cut):
(1) 4.5” square for center

Step Two Assembly

Assemble Square in Square Block, use this method.

Assemble A/B/C 4-patch units from 2.5” squares
Sew A/B rectangles together.

Units needed for each Plaid block:

(4) A/B rectangles
(4) A/B/C 4-patches
(1) A/D Square in Square

Step Three, Arrange the Blocks

Assemble block in rows. This is a basic 9-patch construction

Step Four, True-up your block to 12.5" square.

Tile Quilt Tutorial

2018-08-08T14:01:00.000-07:00

This tiled panel by Athos Bulcão was the inspiration for my quilt. Bulcão is a Brazilian artist. Below is another view, for scale.

Please read all the instructions before you start. Thanks.

Fabric requirements:

Fabric A 4 yards, Kona Storm
Fabric B 6 yards, Kona White

Cutting instructions:

Cut (14) 13" squares from both fabrics for the HST blocks.
Cut (22) 1.5" WOF from fabric A, for the Dash Blocks.
Cut (44) 2.5" WOF from fabric B, for the Dash Blocks.

Sewing instructions:

Match (1) each of fabric A and B 13" squares, these squares are a tad large, allowing for precise trimming, as needed.
Using the 8 at a time HST tutorial at Blossom Heart Quilts, make 112 HSTs. You will have some extra blocks.
True-up each HST to 5.5 inches. Press the seam toward the dark fabric.
Stitch one 2.5" strip of fabric B to each side of a 1.5" strip of fabric A. Press the seams open.
These WOF strips are now 5.5" wide, cut them into 5.5" segments. You can get (8) 5.5" squares from each strip; resulting in 176 Dash blocks. You will have some extra blocks.
The extra blocks give you the opportunity to individualize your quilt top if you desire.

Now you're ready to decide on the layout of your Tile Quilt. You'll have 18 rows of (15) 5.5" blocks. Use 4-8 HST blocks in each row and fill in the blanks with the Dash Blocks.

I laid the quilt out in 3 sections of 6 rows. I've included the photos of each section, but of course, lay your quilt out however you want.

Final Sewing Instructions:

After you're happy with the layout, stitch each row together. I strongly suggest numbering each row, so they don't get mixed up. If you mix them up, your design may change dramatically. This is a link to the numbered pins I use, they're great. You can also use post-it notes and pin them to each row.
As pictured above I did this in three sections, it made wrangling all that fabric so much easier.
When the rows are complete, press the seams of the odd-numbered rows in one direction and the seams of the even-numbered rows in the opposite direction. I pressed the odd rows to the right and the even to the left.
Join the rows, keeping them in order, nesting the seam allowances.
If you followed my method, you now have three sections, just two seams left! Stitch the sections together, and Ta Da your Tile Quilt top is complete!

The finished quilt top should measure 72.5" x 90.5", the perfect fit for a full-size bed.

Truing-Up HST

2018-07-25T13:00:00.000-07:00

I came up with a "new to me" method of truing-up HSTs. So, I thought I'd share.

Line-up the ruler along the stitching line, right at 5.5", the desired size of the HST.
Trim along both sides of the ruler.
Turn the HST and ruler, as below and line up at 5.5" again and trim off those points.

This method was really fast, which made me very happy, considering the number of HSTs I had to trim.

Scrappy Rope Coaster Tutorial

2018-04-03T12:54:00.002-07:00

I've been making rope coaster for an upcoming fundraiser. My quilt guild is going to to have a table at a boutique and we were asked to make small items to sell. I make 3 sets of coasters before I found the prototype that made me happy. The first photo shows the winning attempt.

One of my blog friends, from across the Pond, asked for a tutorial. So here it is and there are way too many photos, but that's the breaks.

For supplies, you need some clothes-line rope, fabric scraps, thread and a glue stick. Using a glue stick on the ends of your fabric will save your sanity.

First, cut a length of rope about 65 inches long. Loop about 5" of rope, back on its self so you have a 2.5" loop.

Use a piece of thread, about 30" long, to wrap the loose end of the rope loop. (It doesn't matter what color thread because it will be covered up.) I start in the middle and work toward the frayed end of the rope. Wind it good and tight. Other tutorials say to burn the ends of the rope with a lighter. I don't even own a lighter, and I like this solution; no burnt ends!

Now you're ready to hide the thread wrapping with the first piece of fabric scrap. The scrap I used is about 2" x 3". Run a line of glue on both of the short ends of the scrap, and wrap the loop as shown above. This will be the end of the rope that gets stitched last.

The fabric scraps I used for decorative wrap are about 1 1/4" wide, some were 4" long and some as long as 10", it just depends on your scrap bin.

For the start of the rope coaster, we also need to hide the fraying end. Pick a long fabric scrap and apply glue to the end. Lay the rope so that there's excess fabric to tuck under when we start stitching.

Wrap the rope, until the first scrap is all used.

Use the glue stick to secure the fabric scrap end to the rope.

Now, we're ready to start coiling the rope. Curl it up like a Snail and stick a couple of straight pins in to hold the shape for the beginning.

Sorry about the dusty machine!

Using a wide zig-zag stitch, follow the Snail shape. The beginning is a little arduous because the shape is so small at that point. It gets better really fast.

Once I reach the end of the fabric, I like to continue on, stitching the bare rope. I think it gives the eye a break.

Once there's a round of just rope, another fabric strip is called for. Apply glue to the end of the strip, then wrap the strip.

Continue, then apply glue to the end of the strip to secure it; then resume stitching. For this example, I used two long long fabric scraps and one shorter scrap, in addition to the first piece I used on the ending loop.

When you get to the loop, stitch just as you've been doing, until the end of the fabric wrap.

Then pivot the coaster to stitch over both pieces of rope; pivot again and stitch back to the beginning of the scrap.

I go back and forth, a couple of times, to be sure the rope is laying nice and flat.

These coasters are fun to make, they are useful and casual. Some would say rustic, and that's OK with me! Hope you enjoyed this tutorial.

Lap size layout for 12 inch blocks (The Giving Quilt)

2018-02-04T20:23:00.001-08:00

I had twelve 12.5-inch square blocks that I wanted to make into a lap-size quilt. I aphoto on the Boulder MQG blog and decided this would be a great way to accomplish my goal.

(This tutorial assumes you already have (12) 12.5-inch blocks that you've already made.)

The first thing I did was figure out the math.

Below are my cutting instructions.

From 1.75 yards of Background Fabric (BG) cut

A = (1) 24.5" x 12.5" BG
(1) 18.5" x 12.5" BG

B = (4) 12.5" x 12.5" BG

C = (1) 18.5" x 12.5" BG

D = (6) 6.5" x 12.5" BG

E = (1) 6.5" x 18.5" BG

From 2.5" x WOF cut

Orange = (2) 2.5" x 12.5"
(2) 2.5" x 6.5"

Green = (2) 2.5" x 12.5"
(2) 2.5" x 6.5"
(6) 2.5" x 2.5" for cornerstones

Yellow = (1) 2.5" x 12.5"
(1) 2.5" x 6.5"

White = (17) 2.5" x 12.5"

Assemble the rows. Row 8 requires special attention; first, assemble the middle sections, then add the gray C and E sections.

Now stitch all the rows together. Your finished quilt should be about 58 x 72 inches.

How I made the Wonky Improv-Curve Quilt Top

2016-08-29T16:03:00.000-07:00

This is a photo of the instructions that were given on making a Wonky Curves block. I started with smaller squares because most of the fabric I pulled was half yard cuts, so no 20-inch squares. But, hey, it's improv!

This is the link to the original instructions.

This is how I made my quilt top:

First I cut a 16.6 inch square from each fabric. Then I stacked them and drew a curved line on the top fabric. The stack was too thick to use a rotary cutter, so I cut the curve the old fashioned way and using scissors. Then I stitched together pairs of mismatched fabric.

Next, I drew the second curve and repeated the process. You can see that the blocks were not laying absolutely flat, but that wasn't a problem until the third curve was stitched in.

I thought of a couple of solutions but decided to "sleep" on it. I've always been able to problem solve while sleeping. I work up this morning with my solution. I did a trial to make sure I'd be happy with the result.

First I sliced two blocks in two. You can see that the cut edges ended up curved! I used the top and bottom of each piece to make a straight line and get rid of the curve. Then I joined one-half of each block, to make two new blocks. I trued them up to 13.75 inches square, to get rid of all those jagged edges.

And these two blocks are the result.

I performed the slicing, trimming and re-joining process on the remainder of the blocks, but this time, I didn't work with two blocks at a time, so the placement was more random. Above isn't the final layout, but it's close.

Half Rectangle Triangle Tutorial

2015-07-03T15:27:00.001-07:00

It's been about four years since I made a Half Square Rectangle quilt. One of the important things I forgot and that I didn't pick up on when I scanned a couple of other tutes about making them, is that you can't do everything exactly the same!

So, here's my tutorial, and if you read it thru, you'll see what I mean.

For my project, I started with 5" x 7" rectangles. Then I matched them up into pairs.

Place each pair right sides together, and draw a diagonal line on each pair. If you want all you pairs to be identical, draw all the lines the same. If you want to be able to form a diamond with your HSR's, draw some top left to lower right, and some top right to lower left. (This is the part I forgot!)

Now rotate the marked rectangle a quarter turn, so they look like the photo above. Take them to your sewing machine and stitch a scant 1/4" seam on each side of the drawn line.

Cut along the drawn line. Take them to your ironing board and press the seams open. Go back to your cutting board and true them up to 4.5" x 6.5".

I haven't stitched these together, but you can see how you can turn them to get different looks.

This is my "cheat-sheet". If I want to make diamonds I need to do half one way and half the other.

Patchwork Heart Quilt Top with HSTs

2014-09-29T16:58:00.001-07:00

This quilt is similar, but different from the previous Patchwork Heart Quilt Top. The cutting and beginning construction needed to be adjusted, so I thought I'd post this tutorial.

Patchwork Heart Quilt Top with HSTs

Fabric: at least 21 FQs for best variety, more is great, I used 22. Five dark and the rest light and medium fabrics.

General
Finished size is 49” x 49”.
All seams are scant ¼ inch.
All seams are pressed open.

Cutting:
From 3 light prints, cut (1) 5.5” square
From 5 dark prints, cut (15) 5.5” squares, 5 from each
From all the light and medium FQs cut (4) 3.5 x 18” strips

Assembly:
1. First make the mixed HSTs by matching 3 sets of light and dark squares, right sides together. Stitch around all four sides of the squares. Slice on each diagonal of joined pair. Each quarter will be a HST when open, press the seam and true up to 3.5 inch square.

2. Using the same method, pair the rest of the dark squares making the dark HSTs for the heart center.

3. Looking at the photo, lay out the mixed HSTs with the dark side toward the center of the heart. Use the dark HSTs to fill in the heart.

4. Chose 3 light color strips cut (6) 3.5” squares to fill out the background, on the lower quadrants. Stitch the squares together in each row, press the seams. Now, stitch the 6 rows together, press the seams. You now have a heart block, 36 patch block. There will be extra HSTs, you can use them for the quilt back or another project.

5. Next, using strips of light and medium fabrics, stitch together a 3 strip block and a 4 strip block. Cut the blocks, cross-wise across the strips, at 3.5”, producing 2 sets of identical strips. Join 2 three block strips, on the short end, twice, making 2 six block strips. Repeat for the four block sets, making 2 eight block sets. Stitch the six block sets to the right and left sides of the heart block. Press the seams. Stitch the eight block sets to the top and bottom of the heart block, and press the seams. This is the center of the Patchwork Heart Quilt Top.

6. Now, this is the easy part. Take the remaining 3.5 x 14” strips and divide then into twelve sets of 4 strips. Try to make them all different in composition. Stitch the strip sets together producing twelve 12.5 x 14” blocks.

7. Cut the twelve 12.5 x 14” blocks, cross-wise across the strips, at 3.5”, producing four identical strips. Have some fun mixing up the strips to make 16 patch blocks to use to frame the center heart block.

8. Join 2 sets of 16 patch blocks together, join to the right and left side of the center heart block. Join 4 sets of 16 patch clocks, end to end, and join to the top and bottom of the quilt top. Be sure to press the seams between each step, and you are finished!

Note: There will be extra four piece strips and HSTs, I use these to piece the quilt back. You could also use them for a pillow or throw them in your scrap bin.

Patchwork Heart Quilt Top

2014-09-12T15:15:00.001-07:00

Patchwork Heart Quilt Top

Fabric: at least 21 FQs for best variety, more is great, I used 22. Try to have about one third each, light, medium and dark fabrics.

General
All seams are scant ¼ inch.
All seams are pressed open.

Cutting:
From 3 light prints, cut (1) 5.5” square
From 3 dark prints, cut (1) 5.5” square
From all FQs cut (3) 3.5 x 14” strips

Assembly:
1. First make the HSTs by matching 3 sets of light and dark squares, right sides together. Stitch around all four sides of the paired squares. Slice on each diagonal of joined pairs. Each quarter will be a HST, press the seam and true up to 3.5 inch square. (You will have 2 extra HSTs to use on the back or another project.)

2. Looking at the above photo, lay out ten of the HSTs with the dark side toward the center of the heart. Choose 5 to 7 of the dark strips, and cut (20) 3.5” squares. Use these to fill in the heart. Chose 3 light color strips and cut 6 3.5” squares to fill out the background, on the lower quadrants. Stitch the squares together in each row, press the seams. Now, stitch the 6 rows together, press the seams. You now have a heart block, 36 patch block.

3. Next, using strips of light and medium fabrics, stitch together a 3 strip block and a 4 strip block. Cut the blocks, crosswise across the strips, at 3.5”, producing 2 sets of identical strips.

Join 2 three block strips, on the short end, twice, making 2 six block strips. Repeat for the four block sets, making 2 eight block sets. Stitch the six block sets to the right and left sides of the heart block. Press the seams. Stitch the eight block sets to the top and bottom of the heart block, and press the seams. This is the center of the Patchwork Heart Quilt Top, a 64 patch block.

4. Now, this is the easy part. Take the remaining 3.5 x 14” strips and divide then into twelve sets of 4 strips. Try to make them all different in composition.

Stitch the strip sets together producing twelve 12.5 x 14” blocks.

5. Cut the twelve 12.5 x 14” blocks, crosswise across the strips, at 3.5”, as you did above, producing four identical strips. Have some fun mixing up the strips to make 16 patch blocks to use to frame the center heart block.

6. Join 2 sets of 16 patch blocks together, stitch to the right and left side of the center heart block. Join 4 sets of 16 patch clocks, end to end, and stitch to the top and bottom of the quilt top. Be sure to press the seams between each step, and you are finished!

Positive Queen Quilt Tutorial

2013-11-04T16:24:00.002-08:00

I had an inquiry about making a custom quilt for a lady. I'd seen the quilt she wanted on Pinterest, but the original quilter didn't mention a pattern or a tutorial, so it was up to me to do the math and come with with a plan for making my customers' quilt. I was only interested in making the queen size, so I made a trial quilt, based on my math. This is the quilt she wanted, in queen size.

She wants the same colors with a solid light yellow binding, not pieced. It appears to me that this quilt is much smaller that queen size and the pieces are squares. In doing my math, I discovered that square units for the solid color fabric wouldn't work, the quilt would not be a queen size. I made the necessary adjustments to keep my customers' quilt, true to the original image, but the size she wants.

If you follow along, you'll end up with a Positive Queen Size Quilt Top, 85" x 94".

Materials:

1/2 yard of twelve different fabrics
2.5 to 3 yards of background fabric, the extra half yard is for just in case.

Cutting Instructions

Fabric for the pluses:

From each 1/2 yard of fabric, cut (2) 9" pieces WOF. From these strips cut (1) 29" piece and (2) 10" pieces; giving you (1) 9" x 29" rectangle and (2) 9" x 10" rectangles. Press these pieces, fold in half along the longest side and press a halfway mark.

Background Fabric, cut (10) 9" strips WOF.

From these strips, cut
(6) 9" x 15.25" pieces - rows B
(16) 9" x 5" pieces - rows C
(8) 9" x 10.5" pieces - rows C
(2) 9" x 19.5" pieces - rows A
(4) 9"x 25.5" pieces - rows A

I recommend cutting the larger pieces, first.

Construction:

This quilt has eleven rows, but it's made up of only four different rows, repeated using different fabrics. All the rows should be 85" long when joined.

Join the (2) rows D.
Join the (3) rows B.
Working one at a time, join the (4) rows C, making sure you've got the proper top and bottom "arms", going together. I laid out the necessary rows B and D to help.
Join the (2) rows A.

Now you're ready to stitch the entire quilt top together. This is when you'll use those halfway press marks, to keep every thing even. I recommend joining the rows in groups of three, plus one set of two rows; then join two sets together, giving you two halves of the quilt. When you join the two halves, you'll have a finished Positive Queen Size Quilt Top. Do your final "truing-up" and you'll be ready to make your quilt back.

Double Circle of Squares, 25 Patch Block Tutorial

2013-10-18T13:42:00.000-07:00

Through Pinterest, I found a great block called Circle of Squares, posted by Geoff of the ToeFeather blog. He also posted a great tutorial, over 2 1/2 years ago. I thought I'd make it my own, by making a Double Circle of Squares. I'm really happy with the result. I used left over bits from the Dolce quilt I just finished.

Here's how I made mine.

You'll need (24) 2.5" x 2.5" squares. This is a great time to fussy cut if you want.

Strip-piece (12) of the squares to 2.5" WOF, strips.

Cut the units apart and press toward the print.

Still stip-piecsing, attach a 2.5" strip to the side, and cut apart and press. In the original block, these were 4 patches, I change them up because it was more logical, to me.

Take the four remaining units, still using the strip-piecing method, attach a 1.5" strip to the right and left.

Cut apart, and press to the center. These units were not in the original block, but I thought they were necessary to keep the movement going for the outer circle.

You're almost to the end of the strip-piecing. For the remaining units, attach a 1.5" strip to all four sides. Do this a step at a time. Attach a strip, cut apart, press, and repeat three more times. Left, right, top, then bottom.

Lay the blocks out for final assembly. I first put down the inner circle, 9 patch, then the outer circle, making it a 25 patch. You can see there was one more patch, a plain 4.5" x 4.5" square, for the center.

A couple of more photos of the block. The block measures 21" x 21", so it will finish 20.5" square.

12.5" Churn Dash Block

2013-07-14T12:56:00.000-07:00

I looked at how other tutorials for a 12.5" Churn Dash Block were written, and I knew I wouldn't follow them. I followed the idea of the other tutorials and did my own thing. I thought I'd share it with you.

Refrain from trueing up the four HSTs.

Join a 2.5x4.5" print piece with a matching background piece on one side. Do this for all four units. I used a 12.5" square ruler to transport my pieces between the cutting board, sewing machine and ironing board.

Lay out the center pieces, like a cross, then add the four HSTs.

Sew the three pieces of the top row together, follow with the middle row, then the bottom row. Press the seams. Now, join the three rows together, press the seams, and true up the block to 12.5 inches square.

There you have it.

Appliqué Stem Tutorial

2013-02-09T10:54:00.002-08:00

I had a few questions about how I did the stems on the Maple Leaf Quilt Blocks. I did a little tutorial, and thought I'd transfer it over here to the Tutorial blog.

Four more Autumn Leaf blocks finished. I want to thank everyone for the nice comments on yesterday's post. A couple of people wanted to know how I'd done my stems. The answer is applique! I've never done appliqué, before, but I'm willing to share my technique.

The first thing I did was get some of Heat n Bond; there're two kinds, get this one, so you'll be able to stitch.

I also noodled around the internet and found an English language PDF for this quilt, Maple Leaf Quilt from France. It's from Cindy Carter, and I highly recommend it, with two exceptions. I had to "improve" on the template for the point at the center of the leaf, see below.

I'm making two blocks at a time, that's working for me, color-wise; so I cut out two of the stem pieces, and found a scrap large enough to accommodate two stems.

I then cut a piece of the Heat n Bond, the same size.

Remove the templates, and position the Heat n Bond, on the wrong side of your fabric, with the nubby side facing the wrong side of the fabric. Cover with a pressing cloth, and follow the directions on the package to bond the two pieces together.

Position the stem pattern pieces on the fabric - cut out the stems. Position on the 5.5" x 5.5" background squares. This is the other change I made to the tutorial, I appliquéd the stem before joining the quilt block. (The tutorial calls for appliquéing, after assembly. I wanted the top portion of the stem to be part of the seam. I hope that makes sense.)

Set your machine for a very small, narrow zig zag, not as small as a satin stitch, but pretty small.

Be sure to change your pressure-foot, so you can see what's going on, as you stitch.

Just keep going, and going until you have all four sides of the stem appliqued to the background fabric.

This is all the block pieces positioned before assembly. You can see that after they're sewn together, there's a lot of truing-up involved. After adding the outer pieces the blocks are trued-up, again.

I sure hope this all made sense.

Simply Random Solids Quilt

2012-08-28T08:15:00.000-07:00

Simply Random Solids Quilt

This is an exercise in color choice. First I picked a photo that I liked.

Then I used Big Huge Labs http://bighugelabs.com/colors.php to help develop a color palette. I ordered ½ yard of 15 solids that I thought were closest.

For your quilt choose 10 to 15 different solid fabrics, the more the merrier.

Cutting:

From each of your fabrics cut 8 x 8 inch squares. You want a total of 80 squares. You could cut 5, 6, 7 or 8 of each fabric depending on the number of fabrics.

Joining the Four Patches:

1. Randomly strip piece the 80 squares you are using into pairs. Press the seam to one side.

2. Randomly join two pieces from step 1, together, snuggling the seams together. Now you have 20 Four Patch Blocks.

Making Disappearing Four Patches:

1. Choose 10 of your Four Patch Blocks to alter into Disappearing Four Patches.

2. Disappearing Four Patches are made by slicing your four patch block 2” from the center seams, on both sides of the seam. If possible use a small rotating cutting mat, so you don’t have to lift the fabric, as you make the slices.

3. Lift the top center strip and move it to the right center. Place the right center at the bottom center, the bottom center at the left center and the left center at the top center.

4. Join the top three pieces together. Repeat for the middle three, then the bottom three. Now, join the top and bottom strips to the middle strip, producing a Disappearing Four Patch. Repeat for the remaining blocks that are to become Disappearing Four Patches.

5. True up all 20 four patch units to about 14 x 14 inches; depending on you seams this size may need to be a bit smaller. It’s necessary to make all the units the same size for the final assembly.

Assemble Quilt Top:

1. Keeping it random, place all 20 Four Patch Blocks in a pleasing pattern. If random makes you nervous, alternate Four Patch Blocks with Disappearing Four Patches. Move the patches around until you’re happy.

2. Join the four units in each row; join the five rows together. The quilt top is finished

3. Finished quilt top is approximately 54 X 67 inches.

Making the Quilt back:

You’ll have plenty of fabric left from your original ½ yard cuts to make a center panel for the quilt back. You’ll need approximately 2.5 yards of additional fabric to make the side panels for the quilt back.

1. Cut your original fabric various lengths, all will be 18 inches wide. For example 3”, 5” 6”, all by 18 inches wide.

2. Randomly strip piece these 18” strips together. Continue until the center panel is 8 inches longer than the quilt top, about 75 inches.

3. Border the center panel with one panel that is 18 x 75 inches and one panel that is 28 by 75 inches.

Now you are ready to assemble your quilt, or use a long arm quilter. I used The Happy Quilting Lady, Janiel Miller, 951.677.3029

Camera Strap Cover With Lens Pocket

2012-05-10T11:50:00.000-07:00

Camera Strap Cover with Lens Pocket

Please read all instructions before beginning.
Use a .25” seam allowance.
WOF is assumed to be 40”.
Finished size is 33" x 3".

Materials

2 contrasting/coordinating fabrics, ¼ yard each
Fusible fleece

Cutting Instructions

Cut (1) 35” x 4” strip from each fabric. One will be the top fabric A, one will be the bottom/back fabric B.
Cut (1) 4” x 6.5” stripe from fabric B for the pocket piece.
Cut (1) 33” x 3” strip of fusible fleece.

Construction

1 Fuse the 35” strip of fabric B to the strip of fusible fleece. The reverse side of fabric B will be facing up, and the fusible side of the fleece will be facing down. I found it easiest to start at the middle and work toward the ends. I spent time smoothing and pinning, to keep everything centered.

2 Now is the time to add some faux quilting lines on the back fabric, if you want.

3 Fold the fabric B pocket piece in half, wrong sides together. Baste or pin it to one end of top fabric A, matching raw edges.

4 Join both long strips of fabric on one long side, only. Back stitch at each end. Stitch a parallel seam next to the fleece, back stitch at each end again. Press seam toward fabric A.

5 At each short end of the combined strip, fold the raw edge up, toward the edge of the fleece, you’ll have about .5” left, and double stitch.

6 Fold the long strip, right sides together, stitch, as in step 4, turn strap right side out, tread your camera’s strap thru, and enjoy.

Rockin' Simple Quilt

2011-11-28T09:27:00.000-08:00

Size 39.5 x 48.5 inches. A great size for a baby or lap quilt.

Fabric:

This quilt can be made from large scraps or Fat Quarters. Choose 5 prints to be your focus fabrics and at least 5 more that are complimentary. I used a total of 12 different prints.
{Alternatively, you could use the same print for your focus rectangles and 10 to 20 complimentary prints for the squares.}
1.25 yards solid background fabric, for the sashing. The sashing takes every bit of one yard, so 1.25, gives you a safety net.
2.75 yards backing fabric. Less, if you're going to piece the back. I love pieced backs, myself.

here's my pieced back:

Cutting:

From each "focus" prints, cut (1) 5.5" x 14.25" strip, and (1) 5.5 x 5.5" square.
From the complimentary prints cut a total of (15) 5.5 x 5.5" squares, you'll have a total of (20) squares.
Cut the background fabric into (12) 3" x wof (width of fabric) strips. Set (6) pieces aside; sub-cut remainder as follows - (6) pieces 14.25" long, (24) pieces 5.5" long.

Assembly:

Attach a sashing strip to the right side of each long and each square print. This is a great time to chain stitch.
Press seam allowances toward the print.
Lay your pieces out, on a design wall, floor or table, to decide the final placement. (If you have directional prints make sure they are correctly orientated.)
Attach a sashing strip to the left piece of each row, press seam allowance toward the print.
Join the five pieces in each row. Press seam allowances toward the print.
Add the set aside pieces of sashing between the rows, and at the top and bottom of your quilt top. Press toward sashing strip.

TA DA, you're finished.

Adjusted Tissue Box Tutorial

2011-10-29T10:45:00.000-07:00

I haven't been doing a lot of quilt sewing lately, but I did start some crafty sewing. I needed some useful items to give as gifts. I really like this tissue box tutorial. I wasn't entirely sure about the size; I'm really glad I made a prototype to keep for myself. Before I started cutting I added 1/4" to every measurement, and found it's not enough. Here's my prototype:

It fits really, really tight around the box, and it's still too short. I added more to each measurement. I really recommend the tutorial, Aneela's directions are great; but I also recommend adding to the measurements. Here are my adjusted measurements:

I cut my original pieces, before quilting them, 16" x 11" - (original was 15" x 10".)
Two - 9 3/4" x 5 1/2" pieces - (original was 9 1/2" x 5".)
Two - 5 1/4" x 3 3/4" pieces - (original was 4 3/4" x 3 1/4".)

I also only slip-stitched 2 inches on the right and left when joining the two main pieces. This gave the tissue more room to come thru. I guess I'm a maverick.

Here's the one I'm happy with:

It's not so tight that it's a struggle to fit it over the tissue box, and it's covers the entire box.

Large Zig Small Zag Quilt.

2011-09-13T11:38:00.000-07:00

Large Zig Small Zag Quilt Top - approximately 53 x 76 inches.

Fabric requirements:
8 light color print fq
8 dark color print fq
4 yards background fabric

Cutting:

Light color fqs – cut one 12.5” square from each fq.
Dark color fqs – cut two 6.5” squares from each fq; for a total of 16 squares.
Background fabric – cut 6 strips 4.5” x 46 inches (length of the fabric). If necessary you can piece these strips.
Background fabric – cut 4 strips 4.5” WOF for side borders.
Background fabric – cut 8 12.5” squares and 16 6.5” squares.

Sewing:

Place one print square and one background square, right sides together, sew around all four sides. Repeat for all 8 large and 16 small squares.

Cut each double layer square in quarters, corner to corner; now you have 32 large hst, and 64 small hst.

Press seam toward background fabric. True up large hst to 8” squares and small hst to 4.25” squares.

Arrange your large (then small) blocks in a pleasing zig zag. I used 8 fq to give a variety, so you should be able to separate the prints. You will have 4 large blocks left over to use on the quilt back.

Sew your large blocks (then small) together, into rows of 6 (12). Join two rows together to make the zig zags. You’ll have 2 large zig zag rows and 3 small zig zag rows.

Final assembly of quilt top:

4.5” x 46 inches background strip
small zig zag strip
4.5” x 46 inches background strip
large zig zag strip
4.5” x 46 inches background strip
small zig zag strip
4.5” x 46 inches background strip
large zig zag strip
4.5” x 46 inches background strip
small zig zag strip
4.5” x 46 inches background strip

Be sure your zig zags are pointing in the same/correct direction.

Sew 2 sets of 4.5” strips together for the side strips. Attach to each side of the quilt top.

Quilt back
Use your leftover large zig zags, pieces of the FQs and background fabric for the backing. I added 8 more matching FQ’s for mine.

Charmed Plaid Quilt

2010-10-12T17:36:00.000-07:00

Front

and

Back

Charmed Plaid Quilt Top

Basics

Please read all instructions before beginning.	Use a .25” seam allowance.
WOF is assumed to be 40”.	Label your cut pieces.

Materials

108 assorted 5 x 5” squares or 3 charm packs
4 coordinating or contrasting fabrics 1/4 yard each – for the accent/plaid lines.

You’ll need extra fabric for backing and binding.

Cutting Instructions

Choose 2 accent line fabrics to be horizontal accent lines, cut (4) strips 1.25” x WOF from each. One will be the top accent line - A, and one will be the bottom accent line - B.

The 2 remaining accent line fabrics will be for the vertical accent lines, cut (4) strips 1.25” x WOF from each. One will be the right accent line - C and one will be the left accent line - D.

Note: You can make these strips as narrow as 1.25” or as wide as 2”.

Construction

1 On a work table or design wall, arrange the 5 x 5” charm squares into a pleasing pattern of nine-patch blocks, 3 blocks across and 4 down, for a total of 12 nine patch blocks.

Keep in mind that the center of each nine-patch block will be a focus square. (You will not run an accent line through it.) Step back and analyze the final layout for color and balance before sewing the each nine patch together.

Note: if you are using charm packs, there will be 18 left over squares; you can use these on the back, or for other purposes.

2 Join the 5 x 5” charms into nine-patch blocks, press the seams open. This will help when putting in the plaid lines. Take a second look at your layout, to make sure you’re still pleased with it. Join each row of three nine-patch blocks together. Continue to press all the seams open. First, you will be working with these 4 separate rows, just to keep it simple.

3 Working on the top row of nine-patch blocks; establish a cutting line for the top accent line, cut. (I did this by looking at the reverse side, matching the top and bottom edges of the charms in the top row, and pressing. This gave me a line that was right across the middle of those 9 charm squares in the top row.)

Attach accent strip A to the top piece; then attach the bottom piece, rejoining the two halves. This time, press both pieces toward the accent stip. Repeat with the other 3 rows of nine-patch blocks.

4 Repeat Step 4, inserting accent strip B into the bottom row of charms on all four rows of nine-patch blocks.

5 You now have 4 rows of nine-patch blocks, with horizontal accent lines inserted. Join rows 1 and 2; and join rows 3 and 4.

6 Join the C accent strips into one long strip. Repeat for the D accent strips.

7 Starting with the left row of charms in the upper nine-patch block section, (rows 1 and 2), establish a vertical cutting line for inserting accent strip C, cut. Sew accent strip C to the middle, rejoining the two halves. Count over to charm row 4, or the first charm row of nine-patch block 2, and repeat. Then repeat on the 7th row of charms, or the first charm row of nine-patch block 3. Press the seams toward the accent strip.

1	2	3	4	5	6	7	8	9

8 Insert vertical accent strip D into the right charm row of each nine-patch block; that is, charm rows 3, 6, and 9.

9 Repeat Steps 7 and 8 for the lower nine patch-block section, (rows 3 and 4).

10 Join the upper and lower nine-patch block sections, Press the seam open. The quilt top is now finished.

This was my first version, and the backing. I varied the width of the accent lines on this one made with Lumiere de Noel, and I've decided it looks great either way.