Jason's Scotch Whisky Reviews

Review: Grant's "Cask Editions" Sherry Cask Finish

2013-05-13T00:10:00.001-03:00

I am not a fan of Grant's Family Reserve. A bottom shelf economy blend that brings to mind what it must be like to lick a rust encrusted copper pipe. Besides the copper plumbing notes, it's grainy, thin and lacking in character. Let me be more precise, it is a blend that exhibits the character of no character. Capisce?

For a couple of years now, the people at William Grant and Sons Ltd. have been releasing what they call "Cask Editions." The concept behind the Cask Editions is to take the not so delectable Grant's Family Reserve and age that blended Scotch whisky briefly (up to four months) in casks that previously held another alcoholic beverage (beer, sherry, etc.). The aim of this finishing process is to hopefully impart interesting and pleasing flavors upon the exceptionally unexceptional Family Reserve.

So, their first experiment was to age Family Reserve in casks that previously held Scottish beer (Innis and Gunn - good beer by the way). Hence, the release was unimaginatively entitled: Ale Cask Reserve. An interesting experiment that improved upon the Family Reserve, but not to the point of lifting the blend out of mediocrity. The most recent release is the "Sherry Cask Finish." Given the genealogy of Grant's Cask Editions Sherry Cask Finish, I was not expecting much.

Nose (undiluted)
Apple juice & honey.

Palate (undiluted)
Lots of apples, sweet malt, and honey oats.

Finish (undiluted)
Grainy, off-putting heat, pearl onions, and some acrid smoke.

General Impressions
The nose on this entry level blend was not bad. Basically apple juice. That's okay. Moving to the flavor profile, again, it was not terrible. A decent delivery of apple pie, malt, honey, and some breakfast oats too. What surprised me was that for a blend that was supposed to be finished in sherry casks, I did not detect a lot of sherry in the flavor profile. Really quite faint. Hell! Very faint, practically absent! For those seeking lots of sherry notes, look elsewhere. Grant's Sherry Cask reads like a typo. It really is a stereotypical Speyside fruit cup style blend. Hardly sherried at all in terms of flavor.

Of the fruit cup in syrup flavors that are presented, the delivery is simple. Very linear, but at this price point, such a style of whisky is not breaking any rules. So, so-far, so-good right? Yup, until you experience the 'finish.' Once this baby is down the hatch, your plain-jane chevy sedan of a blend will suddenly veer off the highway, through a Do-Not Enter, One-Way barrier and straight off a cliff a la Thelma & Louise.

What happened? This blend started out okay, but once swallowed you encounter a cheap, boozey heat, and stale cigarettes. The interesting thing about this whisky was the longer the bottle was open, I mean as I returned to it a week later, and another week and so on, that finish became less grainy and acetone, but only up to a point.

I had two bottles of this blend. One I purchased a while back and another given to me from a friend over the holidays. So, the first bottle was gone. No review written as I pondered what to say. My first reaction was just to trash this whisky and move on, but it did have some redeeming value. I just found it hard to put my finger on it. It was easy drinking as blended Scotch is purposely designed. It had some charm, but what exactly was the charm?

I had to sort all of these thoughts out. So, in order to be fair to the whisky and my review, I and the bottle went for a walk in the park, earlier this Spring. No drinking involved on this jaunt to the local forest with groomed trails, just the bottle, a camera and myself. Took a few pics and tried to figure out how to articulate the charm of this blend. There was a piece to the puzzle that I was missing.

I walked for about 45 minutes, occasionally setting the bottle down, snapping a few photographs, attracting puzzled looks from passerbys, and then moving on. I was getting warm, tired and thirsty. And then I had an epiphany. This whisky would probably be refreshing if paired with some fruit. What fruit? Apples? Nah. Over kill. What could be paired with this whisky that would compliment it and take that nasty finish away? Watermelon I thought.

Quick trip to the grocery store, and back home, I sliced up some watermelon and paired it with the Grant's Sherry Cask. If I took a sip of this blend and then a bite of watermelon, there was no acrid finish to contend with. Instead a nice, refreshing taste of honey whisky notes meeting watermelon. A marriage worth celebrating. It would make an excellent food and whisky pairing to start with before progressing into a meal of salmon with couscous.

A friend of mine and I made our way through much of the bottle with the watermelon pairing and concluded that this whisky is most definitely enjoyed with this fruit and probably others. Tasted neat with no accompaniment was a mistake. Mind you the website for Grant's suggest serving this neat or with a little water. I think not. Try it with watermelon. Very quaff-able when having lighthearted conversation and contests to see who can shoot watermelon seeds pinched between fingers the furthest!

Cheers!

Jason Debly

Copyright © Jason Debly, 2009-2013. All rights reserved. Any and all use is prohibited without permission.

The Nose Always Knows!

2013-04-27T00:15:00.001-03:00

Sometimes I receive email from readers asking how do they develop their ability to recognize the multitude of aromas that can rise up from a glass of whisky? My usual response is that it takes time. At first, the aromas may be impossible for the novice to categorize. But, let a year or so pass, and on their fifth purchase or so of say that Macallan 12 or GlenDronach 12 years it gradually dawns on he or she what sherry smells like.

Others are able to discern whisky aromas more quickly. They may be like me. A foodie. Spend some time in the kitchen cooking and working with cardamon, thyme, rosemary, Kosher salt, Tahini and other exotic ingredients and before you know it, you'll be reeling off all manner of pretentious sounding terms. I try to avoid sounding like a wannabe chef of a Michelin star ranked restaurant, but it does happen when I raise a glass and tell a friend that the whisky exhibits the aroma of fresh-from-the-oven apple honey swirl challah bread.

But, what if you are not a pretentious foodie fop? What if you are, nevertheless, an inquisitive soul or whisky fool who finds the scents emitted by your whisky cause memories of summers long past spent at the beach looking for starfish, and pleasant childhood memories of camping in the little trailer your parents hauled behind their banana yellow Ford station wagon flooding your present thoughts?

You think your glass of Islay's finest smells of damp leaves, that you last recall when you were five and rolling around in a big pile of leaves that your dad had just finished raking up in the backyard. There's a part of you that wants some sort of validation that those scents you detect are as real as your memories, and not imaginary. Help is available. Help in the form of a whisky nosing kit.

A nosing kit comes with miniature bottles of liquid whisky scents like caramel, smoke, floral, phenolic, sherry, etc. You dip an aroma strip into one of the bottles, let it dry for thirty seconds and then sniff. Practice every night. Go through the twenty four sample scents every night for two weeks, and you will develop your whisky nosing skills beyond most people.

Obviously, the premise underlying a whisky nosing kit is that you can train your nose to recognize classic whisky aromas. This approach to training your nose first started in the perfume industry. Perfumers learn to recognize the important aromas of a perfume by using similar kits developed for their industry.

Don't know what a whisky critic means when s/he states that a whisky smells of rosewater? No problem. We got a vial of that. Always wondered if you really knew what was meant by "malty?" No problemo pardner, we got some of that too. Or how about peaty, phenolic, woody, buttery and decay. Got it covered.

These whisky kits are not cheap. You are looking at between $250 and $300. Are they worth it? For me it is because I am obsessed with all things whisky. For you, I am unsure. So, I think you and a couple of pals need to pool your resources and order a kit. Highly recommended if you really want to understand the nosing aspect of whisky appreciation. Would also make a unique and much appreciated gift for your whisky loving spouse, friend, relative or friendly neighborhood blogger!

Cheers!

Jason Debly

P.S. Where to buy? I am in Canada and so ordered from a Canadian online vendor: WhiskyGlass.ca (This firm may ship internationally, but you should confirm same with them directly). I have ordered Glencairn glasses several times from this vendor and found prices reasonable and shipping prompt. By the way, I have no affiliation with this retailer and will receive no compensation, but thought I would mention where I sourced the nosing kit.

For those of you outside Canada, visit Whisky Aroma Academy for more info.

Malt Disorders of the Mind & Recommended Treatment

2013-04-19T00:32:00.001-03:00

He looks like a straight shootin', astute whisky appreciatin,' sort of a guy. He is, but suffers from a malt-based disorder that has not yet been recognized by the DSM.

George is a hoarder. Not of the variety featured on television that have homes filled with all manner of junk from everyday life. He is a malt hoarder, single malt to be specific.

In his line of work (the sort that if you knew what he did for a living, and you saw him on a crosswalk, you might feel an uncontrollable urge to accelerate) he receives a lot of scotch whiskies as gifts. Christmas presents, happy client displays of appreciation, opposing counsel grudgingly paying up on a bet, etc, all resulting in nicely boxed whiskies being left at reception.

Trouble is that he doesn't open these bottles because many are quite expensive, and he has this misplaced conviction that they must be saved for a 'special' occasion. Of course, the special occasion never seems to materialize. Instead they end up in his book case as bookends, and before he knows it, there is a veritable library of single malts competing in number with their hard cover brethren.

Space ran out on bookcases and so bottles ended up in drawers of dusty office desks. I kid you not! And they are all unopened. This symptom of his affliction has made its presence known in his house too. Fortunately, his very significant other, Lady J, has not allowed this condition to rise above the innocuous level in the home. No bottles on couches, coffee tables or floor space. They are around but tucked away in odd little places. But, more on that later.

In any event, as you can see, this troubling malaise is a pattern of behavior that is characterized by excessive acquisition of and inability and unwillingness to open, consume and enjoy large numbers of scotch whisky bottles that can in extreme cases fill the living areas of home and even the work place. This can cause significant distress for the sufferer. George is not an extreme case . . . yet. But, I do worry.

. . .

As you know, I am a compassionate person. I have a big heart, so while I have no formal training in psychology, psychiatry or any health sciences for that matter, I am willing to come to the aid of a friend who is clearly suffering. My therapeutic approach is subtle. Put him in situations where he has to tap into his extensive malt collection.

. . .

"Hello."

"George, what's goin' on?" I ask. I reach him at his office. My wife left town with the kids, leaving me in an empty house with nothing to do on a bright Sunday afternoon. I suppose I could have raked leaves, cleaned out the rain gutter or helped out with the laundry, but with a flick of my wrist, I banished such nonsense from my mind.

"Oh, just doing a little work."

"I was thinkin' we could go get a pop somewhere," knowing full well in our sleepy little town (that another friend describes as dripping in Victorian drool) nary a watering hole would be open on this sunny day of rest.

"Nah, come over to the house and we can have a drink there."

. . .

An hour or so later, I am kicking back on George's deck in the backyard. The cool Spring air had a nip, but in his kitchen cupboard Lazy Susan there were bottles upon bottles of unopened single malts to keep us warm. I was shocked at the condition of these vessels. They were covered in dust, and clearly many had been sitting for a number of years. I recognized some of those bottle labels from the 1980's.

After some not so gentle nudging from me, George pulled out a bottle of Balvenie Founder's Reserve 10 years. I believe it was discontinued in 2008 by the distillery. Lady J remarked later at dinner that the bottle was probably 15 years old. George disagreed, but I defer to Lady J in all matters involving memory and mental acuity.

If you look at the bottle of Balvenie Founder's Reserve pictured above, you will note it is empty and bits of cork are stuck to the glass wall. Let me explain. The bottle was so old that when attempting to open, the cap twisted clean off from the neck of the bottle leaving dry cork in the mouth. Attempts to skewer the cork and pull it out cleanly with a knife were met with utter failure. Failure meant dried bits of cork dropping into the single malt. Emergency measures were taken. A strainer was located, the whisky was poured through a strainer and into an empty mason jar.

A dried out cork is one of the terrible consequences of malt hoarding. Cork, once dried out, can allow oxygen to infiltrate the bottle and over time ruin the flavor profile of the malt. So, with great trepidation I took a sip of the 10 year old Founder's Reserve. Held it upon my palate for a moment, swallowed, and began to smile. My intervention had resulted in enjoying this bottle before it became irretrievably oxidized. I had saved it just in time!

This discontinued Balvenie was surprisingly good. 10 years may not seem like a long time for aging of good scotch, but it was enough with the ingredient Balvenie malt whiskies, some of which aged in bourbon casks, while others aged in sherry butts, before being brought together by the Malt Master David Stewart. Stewart produced a sherried malt that was rich in currants, orange rind, plums and a teensy weensy puff of smoke. Hit the spot perfectly on a chilly Spring afternoon.

Next up was some Highland Park 25, but it was a new bottle, so nothing interesting to report. It was good, but neither one of us was really in the mood for it. What we were anxious to try was a bottle of Dalmore 12 years that looked like it belonged in a mid-80's GQ magazine advertisement. Check out the label.

Anyhow, we pulled the cork and it didn't crumble. I took a pull on this and it was so good! Another delight! Heavy sherry with complexity and great herbal notes. Interesting and quite different from the current release.

This old bottle of Dalmore got me thinking about how these malts really do take you back in time. Some whiskies had great character, which newer releases may not deliver. I liked the old Dalmore so much, I just may have to pick up a new bottle and re-evaluate this classic.

. . .

After opening these three bottles with George, I felt my therapeutic intervention was successful. There are many other bottles to explore, but those will have to be done on another house call, like doctors did back in the old days. I have not completed my recommended treatment regime for this patient. I foresee several further consults will be necessary to bring his condition to a manageable level.

Cheers!

Jason Debly
Copyright © Jason Debly, 2009-2013. All rights reserved. Any and all use is prohibited without permission.

"Damn it Jim! He's Dead . . ."

2013-04-05T00:01:00.000-03:00

How many times did Bones McCoy tell Captain James T. Kirk that the nameless starship engineer or lowly Starfleet security officer was dead?

According to Wikipedia, fifty-nine of those crew members who beamed down with the landing party to some dusty planet, didn't make it back to the Starship Enterprise.

This got me thinking. You know, death and all, caused me to become pensive and melancholic (but not misty-eyed). I started to have an uneasy feeling that I tried to suppress with about the success a high school student has eradicating pimples with a tube of Clearasil, as he stands in front of a mirror, hours before the prom. So, an understandably poignant thought that came to my mind was: How long do my beloved opened bottles of whisky have before they are dead too?

As a whisky fanatic, I accumulate a lot of bottles, and they get opened quickly. Before I know it, I can easily have 20 odd bottles open at any one time. So, I am keenly aware of what oxygen can do to whisky. And, what does it do?

Some whiskies are sharp, tight, almost tart or bitter when first opened, but come back to that bottle a few days or a week later, and the flavors have softened. The discordant notes have disappeared leaving only pleasant flavors, a softening if you will, that is most pleasant. I have noticed this sometimes with Highland Park 12 years.

Other whiskies when first opened deliver a supernova flavor explosion that is quite magical, leaving you stunned and in awe. Give them a couple of days and that pesky oxidation takes place leaving a slightly muted, even a little disappointing, distant memory of what had been fantastically good. I notice that Islay peat bombs can lose some of their intensity after opening and may settle down within a month that lacks the grandeur of the first week or so. This can also happen with sherry bombs like The Macallan and Highland Park 18 years.

Still, there are other whiskies that are great from the beginning, and never waver, in spite of air in the bottle. I am thinking of various Springbank releases, Ledaig 10 years, Johnnie Walker Green Label, Black Bottle and White Horse.

There are No Hard and Fast Rules
So far, all I have told you is that there are no hard and fast rules with respect to the affect oxygen has upon a bottle. Since air is a fact of life with the opened whisky bottle, the larger question is how long does a bottle have in your cabinet before most of the satisfying flavor is gone. What's the optimal shelf life?

I will share with you some of my thoughts that hopefully will encourage you and other readers to comment, and maybe, just maybe, all of us will benefit from some insights into this most opaque of whisky mysteries.

The conventional wisdom is that a good single malt, Canadian whisky or bourbon can last for many years. Technically whisky can last for years after being opened because it will not spoil in an organic sense. Anyway, you know what I mean. We all know somebody who pours for special guests an expensive whisky like Johnnie Walker Blue or Royal Salute every Christmas, and after five years or so, he has finally reached the bottom.

Yes, he has reached the bottom, but the bottom of what? The bottle . . . sure. Has he also reached the bottom of a once great flavor profile too? Have those flavors flat lined for the past four Christmas seasons? Is that what he was left with? That's my worst nightmare. To drink a whisky past its prime.

My dad had a bottle of Black Velvet in a cabinet and would pull it out and give my grandfather a tipple once a year at Christmas. Gramps seemed to enjoy the Canadian whisky even though the bottle towards the end was probably ten years old! My grandfather grew up in the Great Depression and so was not too picky about hooch. If it had some bite and generated some warmth, it was good.

For those of us with more refined palates and undiagnosed gustatory obsessive compulsive disorders, ten years for a bottle is probably nine too many. Some of us want to cut that time line down even more.

My Practice
While there are no hard and fast rules, I have some that I try to live by. My experience is that it is best to finish a bottle within three months.

Yes.

I said three months.

For certain more resilient whiskies that seem impervious to the affects of oxidation, I might let those bottles go six months but I am thinking, get half way down the bottle in three months, and finish it within the next three.

Why so soon? For me, I want to enjoy my whisky in its optimal state. Its zenith, followed by the plateau, before it falls into the Grand Canyon of muddy mediocrity. When bottles are less than half full, oxidation will exacerbate the decline of the flavor profile to a point where it is lower than a snake's belly. Not only TV test pattern boring, some become terrible. There was a bottle of Royal Salute that I hung onto for far too long and it really became just slop.

Part of drinking whisky is to accept that oxidation plays a part, for better or worse or no significant change at all. Do some bottles in my collection get past the six month life span and still deliver up a great taste experience? Some may, but not many, and it is not a risk I am prepared to take.

An acquaintance of mine feels otherwise and notes that single malts that are cask strength or higher than the standard 40% ABV hold up better, for a couple of years. I suppose it is possible and does happen, but I rather not take the chance.

Whisky Charity
So, surely I am not finishing off every bottle I open in the course of a year, especially where I review a new bottle nearly every two weeks. What am I doing with them?

My favorites disappear within the three to six month time frame. The ones that disappoint or are snore-fests (like many Piers Morgan interviews) are given away to people I know like whisky, but aren't ridiculously crazed (i.e. have some inexplicable need to tell everyone via the internet about their whisky obsession). Normal people you know. Guys who, if not crazy about the taste of a given whisky, remedy the situation by adding ice or soda. I feel good knowing someone is enjoying it, rather than have the bottle left to sit on my shelf, ignored, unloved and neglected.

When Will it Go Bad?
Let's say you are not going to polish off a bottle within three to six months, you may be wondering when it will go bad? While the flavor may not necessarily be optimal, that is not to say the whisky is now bad or will be headed that way very shortly. By following a couple of precautions, you can maximize the longevity of your whisky.

1. Cool Storage - Store your whisky in a cool environment that has a temperature of between 60 to 68 degrees Fahrenheit. Heat is not good for whisky. So, don't store it in your kitchen cupboard above the stove or in the lazy-susan next to the dishwasher. Heat will do nasty things to your whisky.

2. In the Dark! - Sunlight is the enemy of whisky. I am paranoid about artificial light too. Keep your whisky bottles in their original packaging tubes or boxes to ensure the environment is dark.

Another benefit to making such use of the packaging is that it will protect the whisky bottle should you accidentally drop it or knock it off the shelf. We don't want to see a grown man cry over spilled whisky do we?

3. Watch the level! How full is the bottle? Once it is half full, you wanna finish it up quickly. The lower the level, the more urgent is the need to polish it off.

4. Do not store bottles on their sides!!!!!! Whisky is not wine. Long term storage of wine requires you to store the bottles on their sides so that the cork does not dry out. If the cork dries out, air gets in and spoils the wine.

With whisky the ABV is too high for long term storage of the bottle on its side. The higher ABV will damage the cork, causing it to disintegrate gradually depositing bits of the cork in the spirit.

One caveat though. A learned whisky acquaintance of mine has an enormous collection of whisky. Literally several hundred bottles, mostly unopened. Once in a while he will reach for a bottle that could be 10 to 15 years old from the date of purchase. Before opening it, he will put it on its side so that the cork will moisten. The thought is that older bottles are susceptible to corks that can dry out when opening, leaving cork in the whisky. So, he moistens the cork by leaving it on its side for a week before opening. The hope is that this bottle position will moisten the cork, revitalize it, and cause the cork to be withdrawn without falling into the whisky.

5. Consider Pouring Whisky into Smaller Bottles - You know those airplane miniatures of whisky you gulp down when the wife goes to the washroom. C'mon, you know. The ones you discretely stuff in the airplane seat. Well, stop doing that and start collecting them. When your standard 750ml bottle gets below half full, transfer the remainder to those minis. Hopefully, oxidation will be curtailed or stopped dead in its tracks.

. . .

Follow the above suggestions and hopefully your whisky will enjoy a long and fruitful life and not share the fate of a Star Fleet redshirt!

Cheers!

Jason Debly

Review: Old Grand-Dad Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey (43% ABV)

2013-03-21T00:04:00.000-03:00

With my hand upon the wheel, a squeal of the Goodyears, a whiff of burnt rubber, I am now cruising my suburban neighborhood. I am driving alone.

The music is spilling out the driver's side window, and I just took that turn a little too fast. Got some Public Enemy thumping as the soundtrack to my life in the burbs, while moms are pulling their kids back from the street. They clamp dishpan hands over their young ones ears and glare. A dad pauses with his lawn rake, but not too long, just long enough for an almost imperceptible nod that only I recognize. He knows. He sees a brother on the outside of this bourgeois clink.

The music lifts my spirits, taking me from this maze of identical white houses, to a place where I am not 40 something years old. I got no age, just a bad attitude, and a big black SUV. I ain't the police. Okay, maybe the whiskey police. Yeah, dats better. Uh-huh. I break all dem rules. Even grammatical and spelling ones.

As I listen to Chuck D tell it like it is (see above video - otherwise this post will not make any sense), I remember an interesting anecdote about his cohort in the band, Flavor Flav (the guy in the video who tells Chuck D "you gotta tell 'em just like dat" with a massive clock swinging from his neck).

In 1986, Chuck D's music career got its first big break in part by coming to the attention of Def Jam Records producer, Rick Rubin. Rubin liked Chuck's politically charged, socially conscious, music and wanted to sign him to his record label (remember records?). Chuck D insisted that Flavor Flav be signed too, as part of the same act. Rubin was confused and didn't understand where Chuck D was coming from. Flav wasn't the lead singer, composer or even playing an instrument. Of course, the real problem was that Rubin didn't understand what a hype man was. Flavor Flav was a great hype man and Chuck D knew it.

You see, a hype man is a guy who works the crowd, gets them pumped at live performances by way of his irrepressible enthusiasm. That enthusiasm is not necessarily singing, but verbally interjecting at just the right moment and often using call and response chants. Rubin wanted Chuck D, and if Flavor Flav had to be part of the package, then so be it.

Flavor Flav in fine form as the best 'hype man' out there.

This got me thinking that I am like Flavor Flav. I am a hype man of great whiskey, and Old Grand-Dad Whiskey is in dire need of one, and I am happy to play the part.

Old Grand-Dad Whiskey is a Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey that has been around for a very long time. The advertising campaign for this whiskey seems to have died well before the arrival of the Beatles.

The orange label is cheap looking and the bottle cover is not a wood and cork cap, but rather a cheap plastic twist-off. The label looks out of style, last in vogue maybe in the late 1940's.

I can well imagine Henry Fonda taking a slug of Old Grand-Dad as he sets at the bar in the must-see, 1943 classic film, The Ox-Bow Incident. Anyway, that's purely my imagination and not based in fact.

Speaking of facts, let me tell you about this bourbon I picked up in Bangor, Maine, at a grocery store for the grand sum of $16.99.

This bourbon dates back to 1882. It was created by Raymond B. Hayden, in honor of his grandfather (Basil Hayden Sr.), and named it in memory of him, a pioneer bourbon distiller, whose likeness appears on the label. Grand-Dad liked to distill his bourbon with a higher percentage rye mash bill and his grandson preserves this preference in this bourbon.

Today, Beam Global owns the brand and does not promote it hardly at all from what I can tell. The brand does not have its own website, nor does it get featured at whisky festivals much. Beam Global seem to pour a lot more marketing dollars into other products in their portfolio like: Jim Beam, Maker's Mark, Knob Creek and Basil Hayden's to name but a few.

Enter me. I am here to hype this bourbon!

Nose (undiluted)
Soft, corn, flowers, rainy evening air, some steak spice too.

Palate (undiluted)
Oranges, dry apricot, saddle leather and gentle spice of the rich/prickly rye that dominates very nicely. Old fashioned barley candy comes to mind.

Finish (undiluted)
Slight pepper, Kosher salt, and spiced rye, yeah that rye! Taste of country stream water where you can see the fish. Very clean finish with a hint of oak and thyme.

Value for Money!
Hell yeah! I paid $16.99! This is incredible value! This bourbon really has no flaws. At 43% ABV, it is sufficiently flavorful.

I am also astounded at the very dry flavor profile delivered for such a cheap price. At this price point, many whiskies are horribly sweet.

I derive far more enjoyment and pleasure drinking this bourbon than I did with Blanton's single barrel (triple the price) that was the subject of my last review (click here).

Highly drinkable neat. No need for ice or using as mix. To mix this bourbon is to waste it.

One last point I have to make about the low price. It's nice to know that there are a few great bargains to be had and this is one of them. One caveat. A reader has pointed out to me that Beam Global may reduce the ABV from 43% to 40%. This may really take a lot of the wind out of the sails of the flavor profile. We will wait and have to see if this comes to pass.

General Impressions
Besides being ridiculously reasonably priced, it is simply great bourbon. Wanna learn what the big deal is about bourbon? Old Grand-Dad is a great place to start.

This is a dry bourbon. It doesn't taste young or overly sweet, even though the ingredient whiskies probably are quite youthful. Who cares? The taste is great. Nice clean finish too.

The flavor profile has some nuances that cannot be regarded as simple. There's something going on here that requires another sip.

Drinking this bourbon, I can't help but think of my grandfather who grew up during the Great Depression. He would have been very pleased with this bourbon because it is a solid, flavorful drink, yet reasonably priced. I could see him sipping this with his "White Owl" cigars.

Don't miss out on this bourbon. Give it a go. You will not regret the decision.

Now go out and buy a bottle right now! Do it! I hope this hype gets you standing up, grabbing your wallet and headed to the nearest purveyor of fine spirits!

C'mon! Do it!

Just like dat!

C'mon! Do it!

Just like dat!

C'mon! Do it!

Just like dat!

C'mon! Do it!

Just like Dat!

(music and voice fade as I reach for the wife's grocery list and brake for the mall parking lot . . )

Cheers!

Jason Debly

Copyright © Jason Debly, 2009-2013. All rights reserved. Any and all use is prohibited without permission except for the following photo credits: (1) photo of steering vehicle taken by Jason Debly holder of all copyright; (2) "Harder than You Think" video by Public Enemy who hold all copyright; (3) Photo of Flavor Flav credit: Wenn; (4) Old Grand-Dad print ad from the 1940's with no copyright as it is now in public domain; (5) image still from The Ox-Bow Incident copyright held by 20 Century Fox; (6) bottle of Old Grand-Dad Bourbon taken by Jason Debly; (7) Bottle of Old Grand-Dad bourbon taken by Jason Debly. All images used are considered by the author to be significant in illustrating the subject matter, facilitating artistic/critical commentary, as it provides an immediate relevance to the reader more capably than the textual description.

Review: Blanton's Single Barrel versus Jack Daniel's Single Barrel

2013-03-16T01:08:00.001-03:00

The Single Barrel Whiskey Trend
Lately, a lot of American whisky producers have been trumpeting their respective "single barrel" editions. These releases are marketed as premium whiskies at premium prices, of course.

The vast majority of American whisky (whether it be bourbon, Tennessee or otherwise) is basically a blend (that takes place after aging) of many barrels (of varying ages, barrel char, grain spirits, etc) to achieve a signature taste (in accordance with the distillery's recipe). Hence, the general flavor consistency from year to year with the likes of Jack Daniel's Old No. 7 or say one of my favorites: Jim Beam Black.

Single barrel whisky is simply a bottling based upon well, you guessed it, a single barrel. Is it better? I am not so sure. It can be more expensive for the producer and so the steeper price is not a surprise. But, again, is it worth it? Recently, I chose two American single barrel whiskies with a view to examining this critical question.

Jack Daniel's Single Barrel Select Tennessee Whiskey
I have reviewed this whisky in the past (click here) and found it too strong for my liking. But, that review only pertained to that particular barrel (number 9-4870) bottled on November 24th, 2009.

Well, the particular bottling before me now was bottled June 6th, 2011 from barrel number 11-2796 and it is quite different.

By different, I want to make clear that this particular JD release tastes distinctly within the house style of Jack Daniel's, but altered in terms of emphasis. Anyhow, let's move to the tasting note of the 2011 bottling.

Nose (undiluted)
Big vanilla, sawdust, saddle leather.

Palate (undiluted)
Clean limestone filtered spring water, very refreshing. Huge oak timber, vanilla, burnt brown sugar, smooth Virginia tobacco, old leather.

Finish (undiluted)
Tangy citrus and oak char. Long, lingering finish that is quite rewarding.

General Impressions
This is a very powerful whisky. Certainly not to be trifled with at 47% ABV. I like this more than the last bottle I had that was the subject of an earlier review. But, the question remains, do I like it at the elevated price point?

Not really. I can appreciate that this is fine Tennessee whisky, and it is refined, with nothing offensive, but it just does not satisfy my value for money test. Why? A bit too big for my liking without the complexity that should be there for the price. Matter of fact, I often prefer it with an ice cube. Let it melt for a minute and then sip. I just like the chill the ice brings. Tones it down more to my tastes (of course when you add ice, you throw away any chance of tasting complexity of flavors). Sometimes it is more enjoyable neat, but it really depends on my mood. I find adding water doesn't work here. Ice is a must if you are not in the mood for this big dog neat. At the same time, I can appreciate the bold flavors would serve as a great foundation for certain cocktails like Manhattans.

At a recent whisky club meeting, I featured Jack Daniel's Single Barrel along with Blanton's Single Barrel Reserve. Putting aside cost considerations, most members preferred Jack Daniel's. Matter of fact, they thoroughly enjoyed the Jack Daniel's. So, I was in the minority that preferred the Blanton's.

Blanton's Single Barrel Bourbon Special Reserve 40% ABV (dumped on May 28th, 2012 from Barrel 349 of warehouse 'H' on Rick no. 55)
This particular release is currently not available in the continental US, but rather only in the duty free market at airports and in export markets like Canada.

This bourbon is bottled at 40% which should give you a clue that it is a lot gentler than the Jack Daniels, and other Blanton's releases for that matter.

While it is a "single barrel" release, I am not so sure it was literally poured from the barrel. I strongly suspect that this is not bottled at barrel strength (equivalent to cask strength in single malt parlance), but rather diluted to 40% ABV. I mean, what are the odds they factored in the angel's share, aging to optimum taste to bring it out at 40% ABV. If they had to add water, is it fair to call it "single barrel?" At least with regards to this Blanton's edition, it may be a mistake to equate single barrel bottling with barrel strength bottling.

If you visit the Blanton's website, you will note that this bourbon is described as an introduction to the single barrel style of bourbon. When you read "introductory" think "gentle" and you will be in tune with what they intend. A gentle introduction to single barrel bourbon.

Nose (undiluted)
Light, ethereal charcoal, Fall early morning air.

Palate (undiluted)
Classic light tasting bourbon with delicate, even herbaceous notes of charcoal, vanilla and Belgian waffles.

Finish (undiluted)
Clean, effervescent, lentils, herbs, baking soda, warm cinnamon flavored apple pie.

General Impressions
Blanton's is the winner for me. It is softer, easier to understand and due to its herbaceous nature, more complex. If you like Canadian whisky, light single malt Scotches, this one is for you.

I do like big ballsy whiskies, but I find Jack Daniel's lacks the complexity and balance that I seek in such a style of whiskey. Again, this is not to say it is a poor or disappointing whiskey. No, that is not the case. It is simply different and does not accord with my tastes like the Blanton's does.

While I enjoy the taste of Blanton's over the Jack Daniel's, the former has an even higher price point that also fails the value for money test I have in my mind. I paid $60 for the Blanton's and there are a lot finer bourbons for that price or a little more. Just think Old Rip Van Winkle 10 year old bourbon. Far more complex, refined, sophisticated, pleasing and all round more interesting than the above two suggestions. Hell, Maker's Mark is better.

One final thought. Whether a bourbon or a Tennessee whiskey is single barrel or not is not necessarily indicative of quality. Just suggests a production manner that is supposed to be more personal where the distillery blender (or a panel of fellas at the distillery weigh in too) personally chooses barrels for release.

Single barrel whisky by its nature varies considerably from barrel to barrel. Exploring this type of whisky requires some guts and money. You may discover a gem or realize you over paid by 30% or so. I really think single barrel products are for the bourbon and Tennessee whisky aficionados, rather than the dabblers and fair-weather friends of American whisky, like me, whose chief concern is a good, solid drink at a reasonable price.

Cheers!

Jason Debly

Copyright © Jason Debly, 2009-2013. All rights reserved. Any and all use is prohibited without permission.

Review: Ledaig 10 years Single Malt Scotch Whisky

2013-03-02T00:39:00.003-04:00

"Ledaig"

I said "L-E-D-A-I-G."

I know you are drawing a blank. Me too. Sounds like some tropical disease of the lower bowel that afflicted the machete swinging, 16 century Spanish soldiers, who hacked their way through suffocatingly humid Peruvian jungle, on the orders of the murderous, Inca gold-loving conquistador, Francisco Pizarro.

It's not another word for Lord Byron era "consumption" either.

Depending on who you ask, "Ledaig" is pronounced as "led-ching" or "let-chick." I suspect Gaelic pronunciation will vary depending on the particular region the person you ask resides in. In any event, "Ledaig" is the former name of the Tobermory Distillery on the Isle of Mull, in the Scottish Inner Hebrides. I guess the owners also found the original distillery name had some unwanted connotations that impeded the marketability of the whisky.

Tobermory puts out some single malts that are used in affordable blends: Scottish Leader and Black Bottle (the latter, I am particularly fond of).

The distillery bottles most of its whisky under "Tobermory" and it is somewhat salty, fruity, but unpeated. The distillery also bottles under the label of "Ledaig" and it is peaty and providing plenty of smoke. So how is it?

Nose (undiluted)
Mildly antiseptic, loam, earthen, smokey and nicely peated.

Palate (undiluted)
Salty, fresh raw oysters, iodine, rich seawater, a ginger/sulphur sweetness lurks too, and is complimented by tart salt notes of sea foam. The loam and earthen notes of the nose come through on the palate too. Peat? Yes, of course. It is peated, but not over the top. This is not Laphroaig or Ardbeg. However, there is more intensity than say Bowmore 12. This shares a lot in common with Isle of Jura offerings. I can see where Black Bottle gets its magic.

Finish (undiluted)
Ginger and kippers transition into a cloud of black smoke rising up from a bunch of damp branches burning down on the beach on a cold winter's day. The length of the finish is truly impressive. It hangs forever!

ABV 46.3%
I think the higher than usual ABV contributes to the very lengthy finish to this delightful whisky. Normally at such an ABV, I would think adding a little water is a must, but that is not the case here. Ledaig is smooth and never harsh. So, there is no need to add water to make it more gentle. He's a gentle giant already. I have added water and have not found an improvement. I prefer it neat and really have to salute the team that put this single malt together. To have a wonderfully peated malt at 46.3 ABV with no bite or rough edges is an incredible feat.

Color
This non-chill filtered whisky is very light in color. I am certain no caramel coloring was added to this malt. I find it almost shocking how light in color it is. Matter of fact, I cannot think of a malt that is lighter. Reminds me of straw.

General Impressions
This reminds me of Black Bottle, but is much better. Of course there is a huge difference in price too. Ledaig also shares a lot in common with Isle of Jura Superstition and Smokehead. Ledaig is far superior though. With it's impressive length of flavor, complexity and balance. It just beats the hell out of the other two. Matter of fact, I definitely prefer this over Bowmore 12, and Bowmore 12 is a very nice entry level Islay malt.

If you enjoy peaty whisky this is one for you. If you want to experiment with the peat and smoke elements in scotch, again this bottle may be ideal for you. However if you avoid Islay malts and not a fan of Talisker and Isle of Jura then I doubt you will enjoy this one.

Price Point
Expensive! At least where I live. If you can find this for $60 or less, you are breaking the law my friend. That's well worth it. I paid around $80 but I am still satisfied with this purchase.

Suggested Food Pairing?

I first encountered Ledaig 10 years at an expensive whisky dinner. The Ledaig was paired with blood pudding and fresh scallops. They also had apple chutney. Take a mouthful of scallops or the earthy blood pudding and then chase it with some Ledaig, and you may as well tell everyone that you have been to Heaven and lived to tell about it.

I attempted to recreate such a meal at home. Couldn't find the apple chutney, but I had no problem locating the blood pudding and scallops. To this I thought caramelized onions would be nice too. Preparation is simple. Pan fry the blood pudding, but not for very long. You do not want to dry out the sausage. Maybe 8 minutes on medium heat, all the while turning over frequently. In another frying pan, with some butter, fry up two, finely chopped, large white onions, do it on medium heat. Let them blacken and reduce, and add a little more butter. When the onions are reduced to caramelized, blackened bits, they will be ready to join the blood pudding on a plate. Finally, those scallops can be pan fried with butter but for a very short time on medium heat, like maybe 10 minutes. Turn over the scallops frequently.

Put the sausage, onions and scallops on a plate, pour your self a dram of Ledaig, and boy are you in for a treat!

The sausage is very earthy, while the scallops are sweet with a taste of the sea, and the onions keep everything in check. Taste slowly with your whisky.

Do this and you will never confuse Ledaig with a 16th century tropical disease again!

Cheers!

Jason Debly

Maker's Mark Make the Right Decision!!!!!!!!!!!

2013-02-17T20:18:00.002-04:00

In my previous post of this past Friday, February 15th, I lamented the decision of Bill Samuels, Jr. (son of distillery founder), his son, Rob, and Beam Inc., to lower the ABV of Maker's Mark from 45% to 42%.

Well, guess what? They changed their mind. Why? I have copied their letter here from their website:

You spoke. We listened.

Dear Friends,

Since we announced our decision last week to reduce the alcohol content (ABV) of Maker’s Mark in response to supply constraints, we have heard many concerns and questions from our ambassadors and brand fans. We’re humbled by your overwhelming response and passion for Maker’s Mark. While we thought we were doing what’s right, this is your brand – and you told us in large numbers to change our decision.

You spoke. We listened. And we’re sincerely sorry we let you down.

So effective immediately, we are reversing our decision to lower the ABV of Maker’s Mark, and resuming production at 45% alcohol by volume (90 proof). Just like we’ve made it since the very beginning.

The unanticipated dramatic growth rate of Maker’s Mark is a good problem to have, and we appreciate some of you telling us you’d even put up with occasional shortages. We promise we'll deal with them as best we can, as we work to expand capacity at the distillery.

Your trust, loyalty and passion are what’s most important. We realize we can’t lose sight of that. Thanks for your honesty and for reminding us what makes Maker’s Mark, and its fans, so special.

We’ll set about getting back to bottling the handcrafted bourbon that our father/grandfather, Bill Samuels, Sr. created. Same recipe. Same production process. Same product.

As always, we will continue to let you know first about developments at the distillery. In the meantime please keep telling us what’s on your mind and come down and visit us at the distillery. It means a lot to us.

Sincerely,

Rob Samuels Bill Samuels, Jr
Chief Operating Officer Chairman Emeritus
rob@makersmark.com bill@makersmark.com

. . . .

It is never easy to admit to someone else you have made a mistake. It is even more difficult to do so publicly. Bill and Rob Samuels have done the right thing. They listened to the consumer and probably to their hearts privately and made the right decision. They are to be commended. See! There are good corporate citizens in the spirits industry and to them I raise a toast!

Cheers!

Jason Debly

Copyright © Jason Debly, 2009-2013. All rights reserved. Any and all use is prohibited without permission. Please note the photograph at the top of this post was taken by Flickr member chrisjfry and is published with his permission pursuant to a Creative Commons License.

Watered Down Maker's Mark?

2013-02-15T20:53:00.002-04:00

Look at the picture above. Matter of fact, click on it and note the alcohol by volume (ABV). What do you read? 45%. Guess what? It's about to be lowered to 42%.

USA Today, Time, Forbes and other media outlets have reported that the minds in charge of Maker's Mark bourbon have decided to lower the ABV in order to keep up with market demand. Yeah, you read that right. They will run out of bourbon based on current demand, unless they add water to existing stocks. But, it get's better.

Bill Samuels, Jr, (son of founder of the distillery) in an open letter on the bourbon's web site wrote:

"As we looked at potential solutions to address the shortage, we agreed again that the most important thing was whether it tastes the same. The distillery made up different batches that Rob and I tested every evening over the course of a month. Every batch at 42% ABV had the same taste profile that we’ve always had. Then, we validated our own tastings with structured consumer research and the Tasting Panel at the distillery, who all agreed: there’s no difference in the taste." (emphasis added)

I read this letter and I felt like I was sitting in on a White House press conference or listening to Mahmoud Ahmadinejad claim that Iran's nuclear program is for peaceful purposes.

"No Difference in Taste"

That's a big claim. I find it very hard to believe. It has been my limited experience that the ABV of a whisky plays a significant role in the flavor profile. Ideally, the elevated level delivers complexity, character and punch to a whisky. Hence, lowering the ABV can make it delicate, subtle, but go too far and the spirit will be muted, flattened and maybe even TV test-pattern boring. The crucial question for the master distiller is how low can he go? Kinda like the question a limbo dancer faces.

The master distiller, Jim Rutledge, at competing Four Roses bourbon doesn't think the flavor will remain the same. However, he does not think there will be a dramatic change either. This is especially true if you consider that the majority of this bourbon goes into mixed drinks like the Manhattan and other cocktails, where other ingredients will further obscure the exact flavor profile.

But, for us who like our bourbon neat, I suspect we are in for disappointment. I can't say for sure because I have not compared the two in a single tasting. I plan to do that and will report about it in the future.

Potential Solutions to Address the Shortage

Let's discuss the "potential solutions to address the shortage" of Maker's Mark. If they do nothing, they will sell out this year's stock. Is that a bad thing? It has happened to other bourbon producers like Knob Creek.

Knob Creek simply sold all they had for that year and then turned the shortage into a marketing bonanza as Roger Dooley at Forbes Magazine pointed out.

Beam Global, the owners of Knob Creek (and Maker's Mark coincidentally) ran full page ads in the Wall Street Journal and other newspapers apologizing to their customers for running out of bourbon for 2009. More was on the way in 2010, but the customer would have to wait said the ads as Knob Creek would not shorten the years it takes to create the nine year old bourbon. In other words, if they dropped the 9 yr age statement, they could ramp up production and satisfy all the orders coming in. But no, said the ads, we will not sacrifice quality.

The Knob Creek marketing campaign was clever and enormously successful.

Profit

When men or corporations behave oddly I always follow the money. Does the conduct correspond with the possibility of making more money? That's the question I ask myself. Adding water to bourbon stocks means more is ready to bottle without years in a warehouse, and years in expensive barrels.

I guess what I am saying is that Bill Samuels, Jr, and the Beam group had a decision to make and my guess would be they opted for the most profitable one, at the risk of slightly sacrificing the quality of their remarkable bourbon. Maker's Mark is very good bourbon. Unfortunately, the decision is also permanent. The solution of adding water to increase supply is not a temporary one. Permanent my friend. Why make it permanent if the shortage only concerns this year? Or did they forecast a shortage in the upcoming years? Who knows?

There were probably MBAs and CAs sitting around a dark wood boardroom table forecasting increased profits without a significant dip in sales because the only possible fall out might be among the small percentage of consumers who drink whisky neat. Probably the vast majority of consumers of this bourbon enjoy it in Manhattans and other mixed drinks, and so they will not be changing their buying habits based on this decision. Years ago Jack Daniels lowered their ABV from 86 proof to 80 proof, and they are still in business. Maybe Jack Daniels fans miss the old 86 proof, but the shareholders are happy.

Jury is still out
Until I do a head to head challenge between the current Maker's Mark at 45% ABV and the soon to be released 42% , I can't say for sure that the flavor profile will suffer. Maybe it will improve? Just because a whisky is less robust, it does not mean it is less good.

I guess the point of this post is to say that Maker's Mark decision to lower the ABV may not be based upon an altruistic concern for maintaining supply of its fine spirit to the public. I suspect the real reason has to do with profit. And profit, is not a dirty word, so long as it is not sacrificing quality.

Cheers!

Jason Debly

P.S.!!!!!!!!!!!!! This story took an interesting twist. For an update to the latest news on what is up with Maker's Mark ABV issues click here.

Copyright © Jason Debly, 2009-2013. All rights reserved. Any and all use is prohibited without permission. Please note the following photo credits: (1) Maker's Mark in hand taken by Flickr member: Adie Reed. Check out her great site for more photos: http://adiereed.wordpress.com/ She has graciously granted a Creative Commons license which permits its reproduction on this blog; (2) Picture of Mahmoud Ahmadinejad source is http://www.biography.com/people/mahmoud-ahmadinejad-38656 with no credit provided; (3) "Limbo Dance" photograph by Flickr member aneye4apicture and its reproduction here is pursuant to a Creative Commons License. (4) Knob Creek advertisement widely available on the web and in print media. All images used are considered by the author to be significant in illustrating the subject matter, facilitating artistic/critical commentary, as it provides an immediate relevance to the reader more capably than the textual description.

The Evolution of Taste

2013-02-03T23:51:00.000-04:00

It was 1977. David was an exceptional teenager. He was maybe 15. I was 10. Wherever he went, there always seemed to be a buzz. . . of conversation that is, not of the Cheech and Chong variety.

"David is reading Thomas Mann," one rather stout and bespectacled mother said to another in the driveway, as they watched approvingly while he cut across a well manicured lawn in the direction of downtown. Headed to the library no doubt. When I took a shortcut across the neighbor's lawn, in a furtive effort to get to school on time, all I heard was an angry yell.

"Death in Venice no less," chimed in the other, more slender mother with the Jackie-O hairdo, flared jeans and too much turquoise jewelry.

A few yards away, I was playing in a flower bed that was still awaiting flowers, as my parent's house was new construction. I used that patch of earth as a sandbox. Had my Deetail army men arranged in the dirt, where I staged battles between the Desert Rats and the Afrika Korps replete with my whistling sounds of bombs exploding and gunfire.

I noticed the stiff gazes of Betty and Wilma settle upon me, and one of them rolled her eyes skyward, probably not out of fear of incoming armaments.

. . .

A couple of years later, when I was about 15, I decided to better myself and be more like David. After all, I wanted parents to talk about me in hushed and reverent tones too. So, I stopped re-reading my favorite post-apocalyptic science fiction novels, The Tripods, and try my hand, or rather my mind, at Death in Venice.

I didn't understand it. I read words on a page, but I couldn't understand what the author was trying to convey. It was just one giant snorefest. I tried some other tomes, like 1984, Animal Farm and Siddhartha with no success. I quickly slinked back to John Christopher young adult novels, as well as the high octane/easy reading thriller works of Jack Higgins with great titles like: The Keys of Hell, Midnight Never Comes, The Last Place God Made.

Not much changed for me between the ages of 15 and 45. Maybe I moved from Jack Higgins to Robert B. Parker. I read all those Spenser novels and damn they were good. Nice light brain candy. They fed a need. Work involved heavy reading and high stress. So, when not at work, Mai Tai reading was the order of the day.

"Sex So Good . . . Your Neighbors Will Change Their Zip Code"

"15 Foods That Fight Fat"

"Strip Away Stress!"

Yeah, I still indulge in Krispy Kreme reading like "Men's Health," but lately something has changed. I have a growing appetite for content with a little more fibre. Maybe not as wholegrain and organic as Death in Venice, but less formulaic and simple than the high-fructose corn syrup pulp my mind has been gorging on for the past twenty-five odd years.

So, recently I have been enjoying and even understanding some quirky short stories and essays that turn up in off-the-wall, hidden from public view, low circulation journals like: The Believer Magazine, McSweeney's Quarterly, and Lapham's Quarterly.

McSweeney's Quarterly describes itself as a journal that at one point published only works of authors who had been rejected by other magazines. What an attitude! I like it. Eventually they abandoned that strategy, but hey, to even go there is admirable.

. . .

Initially, my tastes in whiskies were exclusively devoted to the light, the sweet, the honeyed and super smooth. There were no Hermann Hesse malts in my midst. I placed an enormous premium on blended scotch, Canadian and Irish whiskies because they were smooth, not biting, and pretty much devoid of smoke and peat (elements that I found offensive).

I remember being at a whisky festival many years ago and taking a big gulp of Laphraoig. I started to gag and my eyes watered while I did my best not to projectile vomit all over the display booth. Given that experience, no wonder I did not like peat, smoke, and iodine elements.

Anyhow, I was thinking that was the worst stuff. Matter of fact, at that festival, I tried a number of single malts and they all were just 'awful' in my novice opinion. Too strong, rough, etc. Ardbeg was 'poison.' So, I spent the rest of the evening bear hugging blends and was happy to note there were no long line-ups of patrons for Famous Grouse, Chivas, Johnnie Walker and others.

The first scotch whisky to hook me was Johnnie Walker Black Label. I was playing cards and wanted something to drink, anything but beer. Beer uncomfortably puffs me up and gives me the munchies (not a winning combination for someone struggling with their weight and a body-type similar to John Belushi). Someone said they had Johnnie Walker Black. I said ok. I loaded a tumbler up with ice and poured a double. Let it sit while I played a few hands and then I took a sip.

I was hooked. I was expecting something nasty, but that was not the case. The ice had diluted the whisky such that it delivered a nice caramel, orange rind taste with a bit of smoke. Wonderful. A little sip went so far. Put the glass down and continued to play.

Having had a positive experience with Black Label, I would buy it repeatedly for a few years. It had punch, but with some ice, I could tame it to something I could enjoy. I had a real aversion to strong tastes, and that is why ice played a big part of my early experience with whisky.

After a while I ventured on to other whiskies. Bushmills with its light nutty flavors. Cutty Sark's apples and limes, and then onto malty/grainy Famous Grouse. Chivas Regal 12. And then there was Teacher's Highland Cream.

Chivas and Teacher's were a bit of a revelation because they introduced a lot more texture and nuance to the flavor experience. I was starting to enjoy the nip, the slightly coarse or unruly flavors. Experimenting, I reduced the amount of ice from something resembling the polar cap to a single cube. And then, I would run out of ice, too lazy to go upstairs from the basement for more, I began sipping neat and never looked back.

Transitioning from Teacher's and Chivas, I tried single malts for the first time. Glenfiddich 12, Balvenie Doublewood 12, Macallan 12 and then Cragganmore. Cragganmore 12 neat with maybe half a teaspoon of water unleashed the complexity of flavor I read about elsewhere, but for the first time understood. Where blends seem to meld all the flavors together so nothing is dominating or distinct, Cragganmore was a single malt that was subtle but layered and woven. Plus it was a wild honey fiesta with a dash of peat and smoke, which was and remains one of my favorite flavor profiles.

From Cragganmore, I moved onto Dalwhinnie, Oban, Highland Park and many others. Eventually, I developed an appreciation of the Isle of Skye and Islay. Developing an appreciation of smoke and peat bombs like Laphroaig took many years. After spending a lot of time with powerful Speyside malts I was able to move on to Islay. The key for me and Islay is to take the tiniest of sips. A little goes a very long way.

. . .

So, my taste in scotch whisky has evolved from a passion for gentle, smooth, honeyed blends to include the smokiest briar patch fires lit on Islay. But, a question remains. Do I still like those first loves or are they like high school? Happy you went, but glad you never have to return. Let's look at those blends again.

Johnnie Walker Black - You're still the greatest of blends. The gold standard against which I measure all the others. Always in my cabinet.

Famous Grouse - I recently picked up another bottle of this sweet, malty, pencil shaving scotch. It is far too grainy for my tastes now. Can't stand it, and deep down there is a part of me that is really embarrassed forever being enthusiastic about this swill.

Chivas 12 - I still like Chivas 12 and think it doesn't seem to get the street cred that Johnnie Black enjoys. Chivas and my enjoyment of it has a lot to do with my mood. It usually surprises me as to how good it is.

Bushmills (white label) - I haven't bought a bottle in ages, but it still is in my mind the ultimate starter whisky. So, gentle and alluring, before you know it, half the bottle is gone and you are pouring out your heart to the bartender who has heard it all before. Would I buy another bottle? Maybe not, but I would never turn it down.

Cutty Sark - Oh my G-d this is simple stuff. Pleasant enough, not bad, but I have moved on.

Teacher's Highland Cream - Still love it as much as the first bottle. Not much on the nose and what is there can be confused for a petrol barrel in Siberia, but the taste is like biting into a bacon and tomato sandwhich. I always have this in the house. My go-to comfort scotch.

. . .

Now, will I read some Thomas Mann or Robert B. Parker? Hmm I think I will opt for the latter with a dram of Teacher's to keep me company.

Cheers!

Jason Debly

Copyright © Jason Debly, 2009-2012. All rights reserved. Any and all use is prohibited without permission. Photo credits: Army men in sandbox photograph taken by Mike Sperlak, and used with his permission. No reproduction is permitted without the express permission of Mr. Sperlak who holds all world copyright and intellectual property in said photograph. Photograph of Johnnie Walker Black Label appearing at the top of this post. The photograph was taken by James Calvey and it is used here with his permission. No reproduction of his photograph is permitted without his consent. Mr. Calvey is the holder of all copyright to said photo. Check out more of his great work at his Flickr account. Photograph of bottle of Bushmills taken by Flickr member Pedro.cali. No reproduction permitted without obtaining permission of Pedro.cali.

Review: Longmorn 16 year old Single Malt Scotch Whisky

2013-01-19T07:35:00.001-04:00

Ahh the dreaded 'to do' list. We have them for work, home and well . . . . everything in between. I seem to be adept, at attracting these paper reminders, and even more skilled at ignoring such mundane papyrus at my peril.

They are a fact of my life. If I am not facing one drawn up by my assistant at work, I am being handed one, ink not quite dry, by my wife, or peeling it off the fridge as I reach the garage door.

The other evening, I was staring at a yellow one, with neat little lines. All the tasks were ticked off. It was late. Maybe 9pm. Cold as a witch's tit outside. Biting winter wind chill outside of about -22 Fahrenheit, as I sat in my black Ford SUV with white road salt licks, in front of a grocery store, in the nearly deserted parking lot, lit by flickering fluorescent street lights. The night sky twinkled. Ever notice how brutally cold weather and clear night skies seem to go hand-in-hand?

I got the groceries, dry cleaning, went to the bank machine, and now I actually had a moment with nothing left to do. A rare moment. I savored it knowing full well the experience would be fleeting. In this most pleasant state of calm, I decided to put something new at the top of the yellow lined paper in my hand. I scrawled in script that might best be described as early Cro-Magnon, one word: "Me."

Yup! At the top of the To-Do list was me. My mind wandered, as I surveyed snowbanks and straggler shoppers pushing shopping carts, and I thought it would be nice if Penelope Cruz and Salma Hayek had me at the top of their respective to-do lists. That would be mighty considerate of them. Really! The things I think of, when I have a moment for reflection, would raise the blood pressure of any psychiatrist and probably fatten their bank account too.

Anyway, what was I going to do for me? As of late, I had been a relatively good son, husband, father, compliant/drone civil servant, tax paying automaton to the state, and now I needed a reward. The world owed me. What did I do?

I headed directly to the liquor store.

. . .

On the shelf were some left-overs from the recent whisky festival. One of the bottles was Longmorn 16 years single malt. Never had any Longmorn. Matter of fact, didn't know a damn thing about the distillery. $85. Not cheap. Must be good I thought. The box declared it was non-chill filtered and 48% ABV. I deserve this handsome whisky I thought to myself.

I opened the box under the suspicious eye of the store clerk and undoubtedly a security camera or two that swiveled to spy on me. Leather wrapped base of the bottle gave it an air of sophistication. Like most men, I am visual and many of life's most important decisions are based on looks. I liked the looks. I bought it.

. . . .

Back home I got the fireplace going and settled down to my newly acquired malt.

Nose (undiluted)
Apple, pears and vanilla.

Palate (undiluted)
Chocolate, cardamon, orange rind, exotic citrus notes, cloves and honey.

Finish (undiluted)
Grassy, leafy and minty. Something is off. Reminiscent of Chai tea (black tea with hints of cinnamon, cardamon, ginger, clove and black pepper -just don't add the milk and you know what I am talking about). The more I drink of this, the stronger a ginger note is on the finish.

General Impressions
I am disappointed. This single malt lacks complexity. The finish is rather strange with the mint and grass notes. They do not build on a palate that was orange chocolate, honey and cloves. Hardly any smoke or peat worth mentioning. That being said, this is not a 'bad' or offensive whisky, just unremarkable other than that peculiar finish. Kinda like a cliff-hanger ending to a movie. You walk out of the theater saying to your chum that the movie was okay until the ending.

It is smooth for an ABV of 48%. However, at the price point it demands, we expect more. The lack of complexity with an odd finish that is best termed as leafy, will leave you wanting more.

Water?
Here is the peculiar aspect to this malt. Normally at 48% ABV I am thinking that some amount of water is a must. But, any addition of water fails to improve on the flavor profile. It becomes easily diluted in taste. You add less and less water and not seeing any benefit.

There are those malt fans who dogmatically claim a higher ABV and non-chill filtration leads to a great malt. Longmorn is both and it is not a great malt.

Conclusion
If the price point was $20 less, I might be more charitable to this malt. But, that is not the case. Accordingly, it will not make the top of my to-do list, just as my name will not appear at the top of Salma's anytime soon.

Cheers!

Jason Debly

Copyright © Jason Debly, 2009-2012. All rights reserved. Any and all use is prohibited without permission. Photo credits: To-Do List photograph taken by Flickr member John Schultz and used here pursuant to a Creative Commons Licence. Photograph of Salma Hayek and Penelope Cruz is a promotional photograph for their film Bandida's (2006) widely available on the internet. The remaining two photographs of Longmorn were taken by me. Note: All images appearing in this article are for the purposes of nostalgia, education and entertainment. Moreover, all images used are considered by the author to be significant in illustrating the subject matter, facilitating artistic/critical/humorous commentary, as it provides an immediate relevance to the reader more capably than the textual description.

Product Review: Whisky Stones

2013-01-11T00:25:00.001-04:00

Over the holidays I received Whisky Stones as a gift from my brother. My sister, independent of my brother, also had the same idea. So, I had two boxes of this product to try out. Not familiar with this item? Worry not. I have analyzed and tested this product, as only an incurable malt fanatic can.

The Marketplace
A marketable product is one that meets a consumer need/demand or better yet, is an innovation that no one else has brought to market.

The Consumer Need
To my mind, Whisky Stones is a product that targets the consumer who does not enjoy whisky neat at room temperature. For them it is too strong. So, such a consumer adds ice. As you undoubtedly know, the ice chills the drink and at the same time dilutes the whisky, making it smoother and removing some of what novices or casual drinkers regard to be an unpleasant 'bite.'

One of the problems with ice is that if you do not drink quickly, the melting ice will over dilute the whisky.

The Innovation
On the back of the packaging, I read:

"Teroforma's Whisky Stones are made in Vermont from natural soapstone, by craftsmen of some of the oldest soapstone workshops in the United States. The stones are non-porous, and will impart neither flavor nor odor. More gentle than ice, Whisky Stones can be used to cool down your favorite spirits just enough to take the edge off without "closing down" the flavors."

Soapstone instead of ice cubes? The stones are non-porous, and will impart neither flavor nor odor? That's a tall order, and if those claims are true, this product is a terrific innovation. But, before we launch balloons and parade down the street high fiving each other, let's see what my field research turned up.

The Analysis

The instructions for the whisky stones are simple:

(1) Rinse with water;

(2) air dry;

(3) place in the freezer for four hours before use;

(4) add three stones to a tumbler and fill to the height of one stone your favorite beverage.

I did not follow the instructions to a "T." I did wash the stones under the tap thoroughly. I did not 'air dry' them. Instead I dried them off with a tea cloth and tossed them in the freezer. I did wait the minimum four hours, actually it was like 12 before I plopped three stones in a drink.

. . .

I started with Linkwood 15 years. A single malt, whose flavor profile, I am well acquainted with, as you can judge by the level of the bottle pictured above.

". . . will neither impart flavor nor odor . . ." claims the packaging.

Sadly, I must report that the Linkwood flavor profile had been affected by the presence of the stones in the single malt. The whisky stones impart a mineral, slate, flinty, even wooden taste to the malt that appears on the finish. It's subtle, slight but those off notes are unmistakably there.

I thought maybe the fact that I did not let the stones 'air dry' may have contributed to the flavor impairment. Using a cloth might somehow not be as good. So, I repeated the exercise, but adhered to the commandment that they 'air dry' before being transferred to the freezer. Result: Still tasting those off notes as observed above.

Still perplexed, I thoroughly washed the stones again. I mean I held the little bastards under the damn kitchen tap for an eternity (think a full episode of the wife's Gilmore Girls). Air dry and back to the bleedin' freezer once more. Ten hours or so later, when I fixed myself a drink, the flavor impairment still occurred but was somewhat more restrained. I guess the washing helped . . . a little.

So far, all I accomplished was a waste of precious Linkwood.

Control Test

The last time I was in a science class was in high school and I was not a stellar student. I remember two things from biology class: (1) Della, a red-headed girl in my class was drop dead gorgeous; and (2) the need for a scientific control when conducting an experiment.

In a nutshell, a 'control' is a baseline or a recognizable standard that can serve as a helpful reference for the results of an experiment. Is that clear as mud? I know, I should have just described how hot Della was. Actually she could have been a control for a hotness scale. Ahh better save that for another post and hope my wife is not reading this post . . .

Anyhow, what scientific control could I use that would serve as a baseline for comparison with the addition of whisky stones? My knowledge of Linkwood is new. Maybe I should be more conservative. So, I went back to a blended scotch whisky that I know intimately (unlike Della). Teacher's Highland Cream.

I know 'Teacher's.' I can pick it out in a tidal wave of drams at a blind tasting. I know that crispy bacon, malty, almost petrol peat flavor profile anywhere.

So, I plunked three whisky stones into a tumbler of Teacher's to see if I could detect an impairment of this most excellent of economy blended scotch whiskies.

The result? More disappointment. That damn flinty, wooden taste was there on the finish. I tested, re-tested, matter of fact, I sent that tumbler to remedial class for more testing. And! It failed. Dumb as a frozen boot I tell ya!

In the spirit of science I thought let's do a control test that is beyond reproach.

Water - Über Control Test

I drink a lot of water. I know it well. Brita filter pitcher and a glass is what I sip at night. If there ever was a 'control' it is water. Accordingly, I thought I would take a glass of water and add three whisky stones to it and see if it imparted any flavors?

I could taste something slightly 'off'' in the water. By the time I got to the bottom of the glass there was something definitely Flintstone funky going on. To the untrained palate, I suppose they might miss it, but if you are reading this blog and know one or two whiskies well, I assure you, you would pick up on the flavor disturbance produced by these stones.

Chill?
Another claim made by the makers of the whisky stones is that they 'chill' the whisky, take the edge off without 'closing down' the flavors.

My experience is not consistent with this claim. I find that the whisky stones barely chill the spirit in the tumbler at all. I was expecting the stones to really knock down the water or scotch temperature with a frostiness akin to a cold stare from Judi Dench. I was disappointed. The stones very quickly warm up, unlike Judi.

Conclusion
I cannot recommend the whisky stones. While they make impressive claims, our scientific method proved that their claims are . . . just that. This product brings to mind automotive fuel additives that tout improved mileage with a hodge podge of psuedo science, but when critically examined prove to be hokey, like the potions peddled by snake oil salesman of the wild west. Hopefully, these trendy whisky stones will go the way of the bouffant hairdo, mood ring, lava lamp and bell bottom jeans. Out of vogue and never to be seen again.

Cheers!

Jason Debly
Copyright © Jason Debly, 2009-2012. All rights reserved. Any and all use is prohibited without permission. Photo credits: Photograph of tumbler with ice melting adjacent to it is by Flickr member t2tantan who holds all copyright and licenses concerning its use. No reproduction is permitted without obtaining the consent of t2tantan. Photograph of chalk on chalk board was taken by Flickr member Dunja Dumanski, who holds all copyright and licences concerning its use. No reproduction is permitted without obtaining the consent of Dunja Dumanski. Photograph of Judi Dench taken by Flickr member Caroline Bonarde Ucci who has graciously granted a GNU Free Documentation Licence. All other photographs were taken by yours truly. Note: All images appearing in this article are for the purposes of nostalgia, education and entertainment. Moreover, all images used are considered by the author to be significant in illustrating the subject matter, facilitating artistic/critical commentary, as it provides an immediate relevance to the reader more capably than the textual description.

Happy New Year!

2012-12-30T23:56:00.000-04:00

The above poster appears on the wall outside of the office of a colleague of mine. She is a very kind lady who is an ocean of calm in a workplace that is often anything but. She placed the poster on the wall one day simply because she liked it. She did not know the history behind it. I did.

Back in 1939, the beginning of World War II cast a shadow over the lives of the British people. The government of the day designed three posters that were intended to function to improve the morale of the citizens. The first two posters were: "Freedom Is In Peril. Defend It With All Your Might" and "Your Courage, Your Cheerfulness, Your Resolution Will Bring Us Victory." These two posters were printed in great numbers (400,00 and 800,000 copies respectively). Moreover, they appeared everywhere in the British public. You have to remember that in those days posters were a major form of media consumed by the public before television, whose popularity was in its infancy.

The purpose of those posters was to improve morale and also serve as a message from King George VI to his subjects.

The third poster: "Keep Calm and Carry On" was printed up too. Specifically, the British Ministry of Information printed 2.5 million copies, with the intention of posting it everywhere, in the event of a national catastrophe. The posters never were put on public display even though the British suffered bombs dropped from above and of course the tremendous loss of loved ones. If that was not catastrophic enough, I am unsure what they were waiting for. Probably the Ministry of Information simply forgot about the posters. The war ended and nearly all the posters were used for pulp.

However, in 2000, a bookstore owner bought a box of books at a nondescript auction. Among the books was the old war time poster, the third one, that never got posted. The bookstore owner's spouse liked it so much, she framed it, and placed it on a wall in their bookstore. Soon customers were asking how much it was?

The bookstore owners printed up the posters and started selling them. And how they sold! Then other entrepreneurs got in the game and suddenly you see it on all manner of knickknacks.

. . .

"Get to the point Jason," I hear you say.

I hear ya. I do. Really.

"Keep Calm and Carry On."

Really. It resonates today, as much as it was intended to more than seventy years ago. And, I guess that is my New Year's wish to you. Hopefully, the New Year will be good for you. But, if it is not, borrow some of that great British sentiment, and with dignity, persevere my friend. Things are good and will get better. You will encounter challenges, but keep positive, keep your head up, and you will be all right. Every culture has some bits of wisdom worth embracing and this is one for us.

Cheers and all the best to you in the New Year!

Jason Debly

A Final Scotch Whisky Holiday Suggestion: Gordon & MacPhail's 'Linkwood 15 years'

2012-12-18T00:19:00.000-04:00

Ok, suppose you are sitting on Santa's knee and he asks what you would like for Christmas? What would you ask for?

I know what would be near the top of my list: Linkwood 15 years, matured and bottled by independent bottler, Gordon & MacPhail.

Never heard of Linkwood? That's okay. Linkwood is not exactly a household name. The distillery does not have a 'visitor' building. Matter of fact, it is not open to the public. Why? The answer lies in where we find this malt. You probably have already drank Linkwood and not known it, as it is a favorite malt of master blenders. Think White Horse and the Johnnie Walker product line too. In particular, it turns up in the discontinued Johnnie Walker Green Label. It is a core malt of that pure malt bottling.

The distillery doesn't help raise its profile either by its habit of releasing little, and selling the vast majority of its output to blenders (in the Diageo stable). However, Diageo mercifully permits the sale of some of its 'new make' spirit to independent bottlers.

Independent bottlers like Gordon & MacPhail take the malt and age it in their warehouses and make decisions about how long to age in various wood casks. The result can be delicious, but generally not well known, because such players in the drinks industry lack the enormous production, marketing and distribution capacity of say a Diageo (who by the way are the owners of the Linkwood distillery). Nevertheless, these smaller players do make gems and Gordon and MacPhail's Linkwood 15 years Speyside Single Malt is a prime example.

Nose (undiluted)
Slight and whispy smoke and peat. Subtle floral notes.

Palate (undiluted)
Lightly smoked with burnt toast and drizzled wild honey. But that initial taste gracefully yields to bourbon, dark red fruits, raspberries and cherries.

Finish (undiluted)
Nice drying lemon zest, strawberry cakebread and the glowing embers of morning smoke of last night's beach bonfire.

General Impressions
Linkwood 15yrs by Gordon and MacPhail represents all that I enjoy in whisky. It is light bodied, delicate, fragrant and very floral and of course complex. This malt leaves you with delicious notes of salt and peppercorns weaved in with the malty and ethereal strawberry.

Do Not Add Water
There is no need for water. This malt is truly best served neat and would make an excellent introduction for the novice to single malt scotch whisky.

Peer Group?
If you like Johnnie Walker Green Label, Cragganmore 12, Glenfiddich 15 yrs Solera, Glenkinchie Distiller's Edition, Littlemill and Clynelish 14, I think you will be very pleased with Linkwood 15 years.

Independent Bottlers
Independent bottlers like Gordon and MacPhail make a valuable contribution to the consuming public by bringing to market malts that might not otherwise see the light of day. For example, they currently have bottlings from obscure distilleries like: Aultmore, Balmenach, Caperdonich, Coleburn, Convalmore and many others.

The skill of independent bottlers is their vision to see a modestly aged spirit of a distillery has the potential to become great with the right amount of aging and wood management. Sometimes the reason other distilleries sell their new make spirit to the likes of Gordon and MacPhail is because they consider it somehow inappropriate for use in their mainstream bottlings. Their loss is our gain!

Possible Replacement for Johnnie Walker Green Label?
As you know, Green Label is no longer being made. This Linkwood 15yrs tastes enormously similar. I would imagine 1/4 teaspoon of Talisker to a double pour would make it almost identical. Try it!

Holiday Wishes
Happy holidays! Relax, take it easy, enjoy your family and friends. Wishing you the best!

Cheers!

Jason Debly

Canadian Whisky Suggestions for the Holidays

2012-12-15T00:19:00.001-04:00

Well, it is that time of year again. Holidays are upon us. Christmas parties, Kwanzaa and Hanukkah observances too. I am sure I am missing some other world religions and so please feel free to post a comment pointing out my omissions/ignorance. Oh yeah, and then there are those atheists who do like a good party too. They belong to a religion too, just one that affirms there is none.

I'm cool with whatever you are into as long as it is tolerant of others. Okay, I sound preachy, but don't worry, the only sermon you are going to receive concerns holiday whisky recommendations.

Anyway, you know the deal, there are so many parties, the office Christmas party, maybe the service group you belong too (Royal Order of Buffalo type), the guys at the office want to tie one on, the wife has social engagements too, which of course you must politely attend. Maybe you are a college student, well you just party all the time, even with exams looming.

In spite of our confessional differences, we do have spiritual commonalities Maybe not the same Holy Spirit, but at least the need for gift giving and the appreciation of heavenly or divine objects: whisky!

What do I buy the boss? The professor? The realtor who shaved a point off his commission to get the deal done. Maybe the doctor that did her job fantastically well (okay the mole was not cancer, but damn, I was scared). What do you buy all these people that you understand like a little whisky?

Don't worry! I am full of suggestions. Today those suggestions are Canadian whisky. This whisky is generally much loved by everybody because it is not offensive. The holidays are all about easy, no-muss or fuss. We want to avoid conflict. Let's have a good time. Canadian whisky is a very good choice in that regard.

Crown Royal
Always a safe bet. Gentle vanilla, honey and oak. You can't go wrong with this. Everyone likes it, and it is superior to Canadian Club. If you have always picked up a bottle, maybe it is time to try something with a little more punch. Please consider Canadian Club 20 years.

Canadian Club 20 Years

While I am not a fan of the standard bottling of Canadian Club, and have suggested you reach for the Crown Royal as the safest, most mainstream, least offensive whisky flavor profile that comes to mind, that is not to say that you couldn't shake things up a bit.

Canadian whisky can be complex and impressive and this is available in the Canadian Club 20 years. Concentrated flavors of sweet ginger, lime, and black pepper dusted Camembert. The finish is composed of lovely oak, cinnamon and candy cane.

Alberta Premium Dark Horse

I have one more Canadian whisky suggestion: Alberta Premium Dark Horse. More powerful than Canadian Club 20 is this little number that does not have an age statement.

This Canadian whisky was launched earlier this year and it is impressive.

Dark Horse is a return to what made Canadian whisky great in the first place and that is: rye! 91% rye to be specific and you can taste it on the palate. Rich, spicy, powerful! Flavors? Think Morocco dates, plums, figs, and the zest and spice of rye laid over top with a good measure of oak.

This is a big whisky. Lots of body and spice that can certainly be enjoyed neat or deliciously on the rocks.

. . .

So, there you have it, a couple of heavenly spirits to provide good cheer during the holidays!

Cheers!

Jason Debly

One Million hits and Counting!

2012-12-04T01:25:00.000-04:00

This blog has recently hit the one million hits mark. Look at the site counter half way down the page on the right. I know you are shocked. So am I.

I started this blog three years ago out of frustration with not being able to find reliable whisky tastings notes that delivered the straight goods. Ahh, the hedonistic thoughts and ambitions I have seem to be shared by people around the world.

Now you may be thinking why am I trumpeting this fact? "Jason, leave the trumpeting to Miles Davis," you say.

I will try to hit a few high notes, maybe not as elegantly as Miles, but please take a listen for a moment.

I believe the high traffic is a testament to how whisky seems to be of interest to a lot of people around the world. Check out the pie chart of readers from around the world:

55.2% of the readers are from the United States. Within the US, the top three states that tune in are: California, New York and Texas.

11.4% of readers are to be found in Canada.

5.1% of visitors are in the UK, who are probably shaking their head at what they read and muttering to themselves: What a stupid "git" that Debly is.

Crikey! 3.6% of web traffic is from Australia.

The kiwis from New Zealand like American bourbon, and so I receive a lot of visits and email from them.

And then there is the rest of the world! Too many countries to list, but I can tell you India ranks the next highest. Germany, Sweden Finland, Russia, Brazil, Argentina, Turkey and Greece are growing too.

So, what do I take away from this?

I need to post more whisky reviews! People want more info!

What can you take away from this? You need to post more comments so that readers get your point of view also. Well, you have actually been doing a pretty good job. At the time of this post there were 2,010 comments. Thanks. Keep it up. Whisky and your thoughts are important!

I always admired the American philosopher William James. Why? When he was at Harvard and chairman of the philosophy department, he had great influence as to the hiring of other professors. He did something that exemplifies what university should be about. He purposely hired professors who held views that were very different or even strenuously opposed to his own. (It has been argued that others in similar academic positions of power were not as enlightened as James. For example, I have heard compelling arguments that erroneous Freudian views would have been disposed much sooner if Freudian academics had . . . well not hired more Freudian academics.)

Similarly, I want to publish all comments (except for those ones about little blue pills and money making gambling schemes - I keep those for me). Especially if those comments criticize or correct my errors as perceived by the critic. Everyone benefits from this healthy discourse, regardless of how hedonistic the subject matter may be.

I suppose I have not threaded together notes as elegantly as Miles has done in his great career. So, take a listen to the master in one of his more obscure recordings (1958 record, issued in France), but nevertheless great composition:

Cheers!

Jason Debly

P.S. Next week I will list some holiday gift suggestions of the whisky kind.

Copyright © Jason Debly, 2009-2012. All rights reserved. Any and all use is prohibited without permission. Note: All images appearing in this article are for the purposes of nostalgia, education and entertainment. Moreover, all images used are considered by the author to be significant in illustrating the subject matter, facilitating artistic/critical commentary, as it provides an immediate relevance to the reader more capably than the textual description.

Musings on Master Classes and the 2012 New Brunswick Spirits Festival

2012-11-28T22:07:00.001-04:00

'Master Class' . . . . Those two words can be intimidating. They evoke memories of post-graduate existentialism classes held in a dimly lit university classroom, where the keener students hang on every utterance of a greying/Harris tweedy professor, who speaks cryptically from a red leather, wingback chair. There is usually one student, attempting to appear pensive, who is actually staring blankly out a window at the ivy covered, red brick, Georgian architectural style campus buildings thinking "I haven't gotta clue what that old fart is saying. I must be stupid. I'm a poser. I don't belong here."

When I scan the promotional agendas of various whisky festivals, invariably there are 'master classes' on bourbon, scotch, Canadian whisky, etc, which trigger deep in the gut, flashbacks of college-era dread (but maybe not Kierkegaardian dread, as I was the student staring out that window, not understanding Kierkegaard. Hell, I could barely spell the Danish bore's name!).

Davin de Kergommeaux delivering a 'master class'

Canadian Whiskies Master Class
Anyhow, at this year's New Brunswick Spirits Festival, the agenda identified several ostensible post-graduate classes in whisky. One of them was on Canadian whisky and led by an authority: Davin de Kergommeaux

Mr. Kergommeaux has written a truly definitive book on Canadian whisky. With great trepidation, I paid the grand sum of $10 to attend the tasting.

Let's cut to the chase. I have been to a lot of "master classes" on whiskies and Davin's was the best.

Why?

Yes, he put me and the audience immediately at ease with his deft use of humour and charm. But, all those brand ambassadors earning their salaries do the same. What Davin (not a brand ambassador) manages to do, that others do not, is actually create a learning environment.

I learned a bit about Canadian whisky. I walked out of that room a little wiser. He talked about congeners. He explained that those chemicals, in minute quantities, deliver nearly all the flavor of distilled whisky. I learned about key differences between Canadian whisky and American whisky (principally bourbon & Tennessee whiskies) like when blending of constituent whiskies takes place. In America, the blending of whiskies takes place before transferring the spirit to casks for ageing. In Canada, the blending takes place after years of ageing various whiskies in a multitude of differing casks.

Appreciating the Distinctiveness of Canadian Whisky
I listened to a couple of Davin's great insights too. The most important one pertained to appreciation of Canadian whisky: Remember that Canadian whiskies are different from single malt scotch and American whiskies (bourbon, Tennessee whiskey). In Canadian whisky oakiness is generally positive as long as it is not overly bitter, as it often becomes in old Scotch or bourbon. It is more important that the oak be in balance and accentuate distillery character.

While he did not mention it at his tasting, I have learned from him an important consideration when evaluating Canadian whisky. Most of these whiskies taste lighter than scotch whisky. One must not assume that heavier more concentrated flavors are better. Light flavors can be just as complex and nuanced.

Yours Truly paying for a copy of Davin's book on Canadian Whisky

Autographed Book
My thirst for knowledge of all things Canadian whisky got me thinking that I should pull the trigger and buy Davin's book. I mean, I got the author's attention and if I behave myself, I can probably get him to autograph his little piece of Canadiana. So, I forked over some dough, he made change and boom, I had an autographed copy of his book.

Davin autographing a copy of his book

So, the moral of this story is to be bold. Go to whisky master classes. Do not be intimidated because you feel your knowledge of whisky is practically nil. You know what? The brand ambassador or whoever is presenting will do their best to make put you at ease.

. . .

Whisky Dinner

The NB Spirits Festival takes place over three days. Hence, there is something going on everyday. For me, the highlight is not the grand finale where everyone joins in a hotel ballroom and samples hundreds of whiskies. Nah. The highlight is the whisky dinner that takes place on the first night. It's expensive I suppose, but hey I think to myself, I will be dead a long time, and suddenly I can rationalize the expenditure ($140) for six courses paired with six whiskies and a final one to send you gently into that good night.

Like the master classes, it can be somewhat intimidating to sit down with total strangers. Dining on cream of chestnut soup with foie gras and sip 21 year old Balvenie Portwood doesn't necessarily come across as comfort food either. But you know what, as awkward as you may feel, you gotta push yourself. I guarantee you that by the second whisky flight, the conversation will start to flow and that other couple at the table that did not seem all that friendly are warming up. They are incredulous at how gorgeous that whisky pairing of 10 year old Ledaig is with black pudding. You chime in and before you know it, you have made new friends or at the very least great acquaintances for the evening.

This year, I was not going stag. I recruited a couple of whisky dogs from the SPCA, I mean whisky club.

As you can see, it was pretty easy to twist their rubber arms to attend. The organizer seemed to strategically position my table far from the learned whisky celebrities who hosted the event: Martine Nouet and Sam Simmons.

Martine Nouet is a veteran whisky critic who wrote about whiskies and the wonderful possibilities when paired with food, long before it was fashionable. So, back in 1990 when Sinead O'Connor created a stir by her classy move to demand the American national anthem not be played before her planned concert at the Garden State Arts Center in New Jersey, Martine was writing about food and whisky pairings. Good to see there is a God, as Martine is still doing her thing and well Sinead is where? Or better should I say who?

Sam Simmons was the first whisky blogger on the internet (click here). He was at that time a PHD student in English at an UK university when he became enamoured with whisky. His blog is aptly entitled Dr Whisky and a great resource for those readers searching for tasting notes. His blog and passion attracted the interest of William Grant & Sons, and now he finds himself the global brand ambassador for Balvenie. Nice work, if you can get it.

Ledaig 10 years & Blood Pudding
In any event, these two luminaries walked the crowd through various whisky and food pairings. My favorite was the pairing of the pungent and peated Lediag 10 with pan-seared scallops with black pudding (a type of sausage).

Wow! The stars lined up for that one. The peated, salty and smoked kipper palate of the Ledaig was married with the fresh from the sea scallop, who flirted with the earthy bridesmaid, blood pudding. Wow!

Bunnahabhain 12 years
Bunnahabhain 12 was a nice discovery for me. Molasses, blackberries with some Maritime notes. A lot going on, and I need to get a bottle of this for further study and posting a proper tasting note. All I know is I liked it.

. . .

Martine Nouet, Davin de Kergommeaux, Jason Debly

So, in conclusion, the initial feelings of dread passed and in its place was a good time. Toss your shyness, feelings of inadequacy aside! Attend a whisky festival where you are and I bet you will meet like minded people and have a great time!

Cheers!

Jason Debly

Copyright © Jason Debly, 2009-2012. All rights reserved. Any and all use is prohibited without permission.

Review: Johnnie Walker Gold Label Reserve & Springbank 10 years

2012-11-13T00:58:00.002-04:00

Whisky Dogs
The whisky tasting club, I and some other guys pulled together about a year ago, is called the Whisky Dogs. We are mangy scruffs who sniff out the good stuff and bark at the bow-wow bottles.

The Whisky Dogs met this past Friday night at my house. I set up a blind tasting of four bottles and served in the following order:

(1) Johnnie Walker Green Label (pure malt)
(2) Johnnie Walker Gold Label Reserve (blend)
(3) Amrut Fusion (single malt)
(4) Springbank 10yrs (single malt)

The order of serving was from slightest to most robust.

Only I knew what was being poured. I conducted the experiment to see what the hounds would select as: Best? Second best? Dead last?

I always enjoy hosting blind tastings and noting the reactions of people to the mystery pours. In my mind, I ranked the best to worst. I'll let you know what I thought the ranking should be and whether or not the dawgs agreed, at the end of this post.

Johnnie Walker Green Label
We started off with this blend of single malts, and it showed well. It's very good, but sadly being discontinued. Enough said. Tasting notes available: here. The Dogs panted their approval.

Johnnie Walker Gold Label Reserve
Diageo, the owner of the Johnnie Walker brand has been tinkering with its product line-up as of late. Besides Green Label getting the axe, they introduced Double Black and relaunched Gold Label as "Gold Label Reserve". Both are without age statements and the speculation is that there is an insufficient supply of aged malts to continue to meet demand. So, drop the age statement requirement, add in younger malt and grain whiskies, and presto, problem solved.

Of course, for you and I, the consumer, there is a potential problem. Taste and quality of blended scotch whisky may be at risk.

Johnnie Walker Gold Label, up until last year, had an 18 year old age statement and was one of the very best blended scotch whiskies. (I reviewed it here.) An explanation is provided on Whisky.com regarding the reasoning for abandoning the 18 year age statement and moving to the no-age-statement 'Gold Label Reserve':

The existing Johnnie Walker Gold Label 18-year-old and Johnnie Walker Green Label will begin to be phased out in the U.S. market during the summer of next year (the phase-outs will begin this summer in most other global markets). In their place, Diageo will introduce two new labels that have tested successfully in Asia—Johnnie Walker Gold Label Reserve (selling for around $63 a 750-ml.) and Johnnie Walker Platinum 18-year-old (around $110).

Diageo’s head of whisky outreach Nick Morgan told Shanken News Daily the revamp was meant to spread out the Johnnie Walker portfolio’s pricing in order to better motivate consumers to move up the brand ladder.

"As we reviewed the brand offering, we found that the range wasn’t meeting consumer needs and providing the best consumer journey through the range as far as taste profiles and price points,” Morgan said. “Another reason for this change is to try and have, as far as is possible, a consistent range of prices and options for consumers wherever they go in the world—which, to be honest, we haven’t had heretofore.” (Emphasis added)

The new Johnnie Walker Gold Label Reserve is based on the same Clynelish single malt as Gold Label 18-year-old, but it has a less peaty profile and will sell for around $20 less. Removing the age statement from the Gold offering also enables Diageo greater flexibility in crafting the blend. Platinum 18-year-old, meanwhile, has a more intense, peaty Speyside character. The two new variants will sit between Black Label (around $40) and Blue Label (around $210) in the portfolio. “You can see how the ladder then stretches out,” Morgan said."

I do not agree with Mr. Morgan's statement underlined above. Gold Label 18 years met mine and a lot of consumer's needs.

Let me tell you something about Johnnie Walker Gold Label 18 years. It had a nose that was among the finest of any whisky. Yes, any! Single malts included, regardless of age or distillery. The nose was incredibly floral in an amazingly realistic fashion. Close your eyes and it was flowers, roses and peonies. Fantastically well done. Diageo must have spent a fortune to get those heavenly scents to rise up in the glass just so. A lot of time and experimentation must have been spent to achieve such remarkable olfactory perfection.

The axed Gold Label 18 years did not disappoint on the palate. Luscious wild honey, English cream, cinnamon, interesting peat & smoke hidden amongst exotic spices just floored me. This dram was interestingly peated.

I bought several bottles in the past and they were all consistently excellent.

So, with that memory, I thought I would spring on the Whisky Dogs a real treat that would leave them salivating for more.

Nose (undiluted)

The glorious floral notes of the 18 year old predecessor were nowhere to be found. In its rightful place was an unremarkable impostor serving up thin, faint tendrils of chopped mint, sea air and what passed for peat but more reminiscent of a pine tree air freshener hanging from the rear view mirror of an airport cab.

Palate (undiluted)

Sweet. Matter of fact. Let there be no confusion. Horribly, sticky Danish sweet. This is like a bag of sugar donuts that your local cop polishes off in his squad car, with a triple cream & sugar coffee, while secretly hoping he does not get trapped in morning rush hour gridlock before getting to the station to do his business. This flavor profile is a travesty that evokes childhood memories of Honeycomb and Corn Pops cereal while watching Saturday morning cartoons. I am really disappointed.

Finish (undiluted)

Short. Like Danny DeVito short. Somewhat grainy like your satellite TV reception in a snow storm. A little warmth, malty/oakey, a puff of cigarette smoke and a cheap shake of pepper.

General Impressions

Well, I was embarrassed to have included that in the tasting. None of the dogs raised their paws. Instead, they rolled over and played dead when I offered to pour more. Needless to say, they were totally unimpressed. The best one of them could come up with was that it was smooth. Hmmm, so is lava as it oozes out of a volcano.

Price Point/Suggested Alternatives

You know how I feel? Robbed! Robbed I tell you. I paid $79 ($62 in the US) for this bottle of sweet honey, Halloween candied, marmalade glaze concoction. I really am ticked off. For that price I could have had a bottle of Dalwhinnie 15 that I consider to be in the same flavor style (ie. honey/nutmeg/cinnamon) and most definitely superior.

Diageo claims Clynelish is at the centre of Gold Label Reserve. I am not tasting it. What I do recognize is lots of Cardhu, which by the way is never a good thing.

Much cheaper and nearly equivalent renditions of this flavor profile are available. I am thinking Power's Gold for $22 or lets go cheaper to Cutty Sark.

Anyway, next up was a no-age statement single malt of India: Amrut Fusion.

Amrut Fusion Single Malt

Amrut Fusion is a single malt produced in India. Some of the peated barley is sourced from Scotland and the remainder is taken from Punjab. When people learn this, I find they immediately turn up their nose.

"India? Single malt?" they say.

I know what they are thinking too. Jason truly is out to lunch. The rumours are true.

When I get this narrow-minded reaction, I try to convince them that Amrut Fusion is damn good. But, it just falls on deaf ears. I explain that this Indian single malt whisky is made in Bangalore. The distillery takes Punjabi and peated Scottish barley and makes an interesting single malt. Hence, the name: Fusion. AND!!!! It is good! I also point out that single malt can be produced outside of Scotland. Japan has been doing so successfully for many years. Remember how 15 or 20 years ago people scoffed at the thought of Japanese single malt? Well, guess what? India is the new Japan. At this point in the conversation, people usually peel away from me with lame excuses that they gotta make a call or it's getting late.

So, up against some single malt snobbery that I suspected had infected my pack of mongrels like a bad case of the fleas, I decided to include this Bangalore number in the blind tasting.

The reaction was wholly positive. Everyone liked it and were taken aback by its huge flavor profile. This is a big whisky. Towering. Tastes of saddle leather and mahogany. Real old school. Powerful horse kick of cedar, cloves, cardamon, spiced dark treacle, coriander. Dark chocolate that has a heavy weighting of cocoa. Some big peat notes reminiscent of Islay are also present. At 50% ABV it is amazingly enjoyable neat. Mind you, not for the novice.

When the tasting was done of all the flights, I revealed Amrut, and some were truly incredulous that India could produce such a quality whisky. Nevertheless, the conversion process had begun.

Springbank 10 years Single Malt

The last flight of the blind tasting was Springbank 10 years single malt.

The dogs sniffed suspiciously. They were unsure what to think of me any more. I had started them off Green Label that they lapped up, but then did a U-turn and headed the wrong way on a one-way street with Gold Label Reserve, unleashed them in the park with Amrut Fusion, and now, they were going to splash around in the swimming pool. Hopefully, there would be no Oh Henry! bar sightings in the water . . . . Let's see how they made out with Springbank.

Nose (undiluted)

Heavy sea air, black smoke, thick peat, lemons. Beautiful and unique. Something very different. Artisanal if you will.

Palate (undiluted)

Brine, salty, lemon rind, green apple, Brazil nuts, an oily body, and sherry makes an appearance in a cloud of black smoke and sooty peat.

Finish (undiluted)

Firm, drying oak, plenty of spiced balsa, black tea. There is a firm maltiness too on the finish that is very unique. Enormously complex weaving of flavors.

General Impressions

All the dogs howled in approval at Springbank. It's like the moon rose high in the night sky and we were going to croon to it all evening. Wow! Springbank 10 years is a great malt. Not good. Great! A show stopper that commands your attention from the nose through the finish. Why? Unique friend. Very unique!

The magic of Springbank is how it can so deliciously present on the palate both peat smoke and sherry. Very hard to do I tell you and rarely is it executed so well as here. While the distillery employs mostly ex-bourbon casks to age this spirit, a few sherry casks are thrown in the mix. The spirit is not surprisingly light in color, but don't worry, this is a rich, luxurious dram that displays the ying and yang of peat/smoke and a little sherry with great dexterity. Make no mistake, this is greatness in malt form.

Price Point

Not cheap. A 10 year old single malt that costs nearly $100 ($98) to be exact better be good. It is worth the high price of admission. I have no regrets. This is a memorable whisky that I will certainly be thinking about long after the bottle is long gone. A classic if you will and living proof that age statements are not necessarily indicative of quality. This 10 year old kicks butt, and beats the hell out of a lot of single malts that are 18 years. In fact, as much as I like Springbank 15, I truly prefer the 10.

46% alc/vol

The higher than usual 40% or 43% abv doesn't necessarily mean you need to add water. I like this neat, but some like water. A matter of taste. It is also non-chill filtered and no artificial colouring is added.

Whisky Dog Rankings?

In my mind, I ranked the whiskies in order of greatness (#1 the most) as follows:

(1) Springbbank 10

(2) Amrut Fusion

(3) Johnnie Walker Green

(4) Johnnie Walker Gold Label

And the Whisky Dogs without my opinion came to the same ranking of quality. They were quick to point out that Springbank was more complex than the Amrut. But, they did love the Amrut too. B-dawg member was really impressed with Amrut, and maybe I succeeded in showing him that great whisky is not geographically limited to Scotland. He kept staring at the bottle after I unveiled it.

Another bit of wisdom I took away from the tasting was how a group of guys with varying preferences with respect to whisky nonetheless agreed as to the ranking of the whiskies. This reinforces my belief that the discernment of great whisky and poor ones is not purely a subjective enterprise. There are absolute truths in this world, and they apply to whisky too.

On the Look-out

I and the other whisky dogs are always on the look-out for other great malts. We hope to report on many more shortly. So, keep checking in from time to time!

Cheers!

Jason Debly

Copyright © Jason Debly, 2009-2012. All rights reserved. Any and all use is prohibited without permission. Photograph credits: (1) First photograph is entitled "Hurworth Houngs - going for a walk in the snow" by Amy Fair - Hurworth Photography, who holds all world copyright. No reproduction is permitted without permission of Amy Fair - Photography. Used here with photographer's permission. (2) Various photographs of scotch whiskies and Amrut were taken by Jason Debly. (3) Final photograph of German Shorthaired Pointer Dog taken by Yourdogtoday's Photostream, who holds all worldwide copyright and reproduction is permitted without obtaining this copyright holder's permission. Note: All images appearing in this article are for the purposes of nostalgia, education and entertainment. Moreover, all images used are considered by the author to be significant in illustrating the subject matter, facilitating artistic/critical commentary, as it provides an immediate relevance to the reader more capably than the textual description.

Review: Smokehead Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky

2012-11-05T01:58:00.001-04:00

Lately, I have noticed quite a few of my friends have found true love online. I'm serious, they were not meeting anyone in their day-to-day existence, and so created a profile with some online company and they were struck by Cupid's arrow. I bull sh-t you not! I can think of three couples who are married that met online. Good for them!

The online dating trend got me thinking. I long for some love too. Love of a good Islay malt that is (and maybe a grammar tutor who can teach me not to end sentences with verbs . . .). Anyway, I and the lasses of Islay generally have very stormy relationships. Few are serene and delightful conversationalists like Ms. Lagavulin 16.

Instead, I end up meeting wild and peaty Laphroaig 10 temptresses who would just as soon slap you as kiss you. The waters of those relationships can be dark, choppy and white capped at times. Her salty tongue and raw hicky bites can be a bit too much. I struggle with her moodiness and temper tantrums when I date other malts like that Speyside babe, Ms. Glenfiddich 15 Solera, who is so much more easy going.

Of course, if you talk to the Islay ladies, they will tell you another story. They will tell you how I do not listen, and that sometimes they are just venting and they don't want to hear a solution to their problems. And no, she is not dehydrated! She does not need water. She doesn't want to calm down her fiery and wood smoking mood. Why can't I accept her ashy and sooty character for who she is, and blah, blah and before you know it I am thinking about football stats.

Clearly, I need relationship counselling. I can't make up my mind about the ladies of Islay. I mean I would definitely enter into a committed relationship with Ms. Lagavulin any day, but she won't have me. I just can't afford to date her on a regular basis. She is too expensive to hang out with. The others ones like Laphroaig and Ardbeg are so unpredictable. I need advice just like people in the online love world.

But? Do I really want to part with my hard earned cash and hire an online malt dating consultant? Especially one who describes himself as my "online dating wingman?" You know that anyone who describes themselves as your 'wingman' is anything but that. Naaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah!

So, I decided to post an ad:

SWM seeking Islay lady malt who enjoys hikes through the hills, romantic seaside camp fires, has a taste for dulse, has a smoking body, and is not afraid to share it.

I got a response.

Phone rang a couple of days later.

Me: "Hello."

Lady Smokehead Islay: "Meet me at the corner of Regent and Queen."

Me: "Who is this?"

Lady Smokehead Islay: "You posted an ad right?"

Me: "Uh yeah. Umm how did you get my number?"

Lady Smokehead Islay: "I know someone in the police . . . or should I say I am 'known' by the police. Be there! -click!"

. . .

I stood at the corner as directed. It was a rainy Saturday afternoon. Out of the distance I heard her first before I saw her arrive on a rumbling Honda motorbike whose exhaust had seen better days. She skidded to a stop inches from my feet, clad in a black leather Barbour motorcycle jacket. She motioned with a shake of her head for me to hop on. The motorbike belched a little black smoke laced with sulphur, and we took off. I held onto her tight little waist as her black hair blew in my face.

Scent/Nose (undiluted)
I nuzzled into the nape of her neck, as she leaned the bike into a turn, kicked it down a gear, while I took in scents of black tea, tar, fresh asphalt, peat and black sooty smoke.

We drove for the better part of a wind and rain lashed hour without speaking. I had no idea where the hell we were when she braked to a stop by the side of the highway. Below the guardrail, following her lead, we scrambled down the rocky hillside to the beach.

As we talked, she gathered some branches, some wet driftwood, and set it afire by the sea with a scratched chrome zippo lighter that she pulled out of the chest pocket of her jacket.

Ms. Lady Smokehead: "What kind of music do you like?"

Me: "I am a bit of an insomniac. Late at night I read and usually have some melancholic/pensive music playing, stuff like REM's Bang and blame or Drive while trying to figure out what the hell Michael Stipe is saying."

Ms. Lady Smokehead: "I listen to Bowie's All the Young Dudes. It sums up who I am."

I nodded, not really understanding what she meant, and unsure if I wanted to hear her particular existential explanation. I suspected it might be painful for her to relate. Some things are better left unsaid.

She reminded me of a youthful Francoise Hardy. Fragile, slightly damaged, but rub beneath the surface and there is a hard, unyielding and beautiful diamond of a soul.

She leaned in, like a black cat stretching, for a kiss.

Palate (undiluted)
A kiss of sweet peat, but thin with a hints of water, chimney smoke, soot and ginger root. Young. Not complex. Pleasant nevertheless.

Finish (undiluted)
A dusting of pretzel salt, seaweed, brine, drying, warmth before the bonfire smoke takes over.

Expensive Date
We got back on her bike and rode to a gas station. I paid for the gas. $50. She dropped me off at the same street corner, and I never saw her again.

Ms. Smokehead was hard to explain. I like her, what little of her I got to know. She was an expensive date and left me somehow dissatisfied with her or was it with me? But, for someone new to Islay courtship, Ms. Smokehead provided a smooth and intriguing introduction. I like her.

Not sure, my friends agree. They mostly think her Islay girlfriends like Ms. White Horse and Ms. Black Bottle are a lot more fun and lot less expensive to date. For me, sometimes I just don't believe the geography of the heart can be broken down in economic terms. I like her and will probably call on her again.

Cheers!

Jason Debly

P.S. Unfamiliar with the music of Francoise Hardy? Check out Tous les garcons et les filles on You Tube.

Copyright © Jason Debly, 2009-2012. All rights reserved. Any and all use is prohibited without permission except for photography not by the writer. Photo credites: (1) image belongs to owners of www.catholicmingle.com/; (2) My Online Dating Consultant image uploaded by Flickr member Mike Muson; (3) Smokehead bottle pic by yours truly; (4) "Close-up of a lit 1968 Slim Model Zippo lighter" photograph taken by David J. Fred and is made available by him via a Creative Commons licence; (5) Photograph of Francoise Hardy astride a mid-60's Honda. Credit: Hulton Archives: Getty Images; (6) Another close-up photograph of Smokehead bottle and packaging taken by the author. . Note: All images appearing in this article are for the purposes of nostalgia, education and entertainment. Moreover, all images used are considered by the author to be significant in illustrating the subject matter, facilitating artistic/critical commentary, as it provides an immediate relevance to the reader more capably than the textual description.

Unlocking the Secrets of Ardbeg 10 years

2012-10-23T00:56:00.003-03:00

Unlock the Mystery
At 46% alc/vol, Ardbeg 10 is a big dog Islay scotch whisky. I mean real big! The smoke, sooty peat, sea salt and dulse rains down upon the palate like a tornado funnel cloud touching down in a Kansas wheat field.

For me, Ardbeg presents a mystery. This malt is praised by critics, readers and friends, yet for the longest time I would draw a blank.

When I first encountered this malt, I could not understand what all the fuss was. I mean I could appreciate it was a unique punch to the gut of peat, smoke and cracked black peppercorns, but little else. I was missing something that all the critics and friends were raving about. What was it? Was I a little slow? There was a renewed sting of those old school yard taunts of "sling blade."

So, in an effort to unlock the secrets of Ardbeg, I would take sip after sip and before I knew it, I had a foreboding feeling that either I would figure out the allure of the malt or be doomed to find myself lying face up in a grassy public park, inexplicably muddied, with my pants missing and rain pelting my face in the middle of the night . . . or worse on all fours barking at the moon, as the police approach with flash-lights drawn . . . and barking Dobermans.

Ok, maybe I am exaggerating. Usually if I have a little too much, I simply fall asleep in the lazy-boy. Ahem, anyway there is a mystery to be solved.

46% alc/vol

Recently, my newly formed whisky club met and Ardbeg 10 was on the table. I sampled it and again was missing the boat. At the end of the evening, I scooped the bottle off the table, into my overcoat, hopped into a cab and scooted home.

In subsequent weeks, I sampled and sampled and basically came to the conclusion that at 46% alc/vol it is too untame and wild. The flavors were too much for my palate to appreciate. And then it dawned on me: add water.

Nose (diluted)
Phenol, mint, smoking damp wood bonfire, wet leaves.

Palate (diluted)
More subdued. Smoother, softer, silken but still with plenty of smoke, tar and black peppercorns in the centre. Smokey bacon too.

Finish (diluted)
This is where the excitement starts. The malt started as sweet peat upon the palate, transitions in great form to a sea spray dry evaporation of flavors like: white capped waves of salt, lingering green seaweed, tarred fishing boat ropes. White cheddar and more ashy, soot and smoke leave you reaching for more.

General Impressions
The mystery of why this malt appeals to so many has been revealed to me. Add a little water (ie. 1/4 to 1 teaspoon) to a single or double pour, and you will taste much more complexity of flavor and sweet smoke that was not available 'neat.' For me, water makes all the difference.

I love Lagavulin and I think my addition of water to Ardbeg is my own way of bringing it closer to my favorite of Islay.

In general, I find any malt at 46% abv can generally benefit from a little water. At such a high abv, you run the risk of numbing your palate, which prevents you from tasting all a whisky has to offer.

In conclusion, if the appeal of Ardbeg has been a bit of a mystery to you, try a little water. Maybe you will be let in on the secret too!

Cheers!

Jason Debly

Photo credits: (1) Photograph of key in hole by Flickr member: Millerman737, who holds all world copyright. No reproduction permitted without his express permission; (2) Photograph of close up of Ardbeg emblem by Flickr member: Thomas Alexander who holds all worldwide copyright. No reproduction is permitted without his express consent; (3) Photograph of Ardbeg bottle on its side taken by Fallen Shutter Photography and may be reproduced if you comply with the creative commons license; (4) Close-up photograph of Ardbeg cork taken by Sonicwalker and is reproduced here pursuant to a creative commons license. All other content subject to copyright © Jason Debly, 2009-2012. All rights reserved. Any and all use is prohibited without permission. Note: All images appearing in this article are for the purposes of nostalgia, education and entertainment. Moreover, all images used are considered by the author to be significant in illustrating the subject matter, facilitating artistic/critical commentary, as it provides an immediate relevance to the reader more capably than the textual description.

Reflecting on Architects, Malt Masters and the Rules of Modern Courtship!

2012-10-19T01:10:00.002-03:00

A colleague of mine, in the dating game, declares that upon meeting a lady of some promise, in one of his haunts (usually a bar or multi-faceted glass disco ball spinning nightclub), at some point in the conversation, invariably tells what he considers to be a little white lie.

"Don't worry J-Man! I don't give them your name," guffaws Marc-Andre.

Somehow I am not appreciating the humour. I also wince at his use of "J-Man" and what he is going to say next. And then, of course, he continues . . .

"Dude, eventually they ask what I do for a living."

"Yes. That would be logical."

"You know what I tell them?"

"No." I felt like adding that if I knew, we would not be having this conversation, but decided to let it go.

"Architect!" he enthusiastically declares. I stare at my drink.

"But, you're a lawyer," I mutter, trying to inject some reality into the conversation.

"Yeah, yeah, I know." Marc-Andre pauses for dramatic effect, takes a sip of his Guinness and then continues. "Jason. Everyone likes architects. Think about it. They design skyscrapers, houses, lake-front cottages. Everything. I mean they do it all. They are creative. Think of Donald Trump."

"He's not an architect."

"True, but I mean he hires architects. People like them."

"You mean Frank Gehry or Frank Lloyd Wright."

"Who?"

"Nevermind. So, what was your point?"

"Architects! Women love them. Everyone loves them. No one has a bad architect story. But, everyone has a lawyer story affecting their family or someone they knew who had all their money or inheritance taken or something like that. The girls get all dreamy eyed when I tell them I am working on a new hospital for sick children."

. . .

Like an annoying one-hit wonder (I am thinking Convoy by C.W. McCall) you hear on the radio while driving into work, I just couldn't get Marc-Andre's peculiar insights into the allure of being an architect out of my head. "Architect!" I would hear him enthuse over and over. So, I started to think about architects. Creative? I suppose. Making beautiful buildings? Sure. I guess, but then I recalled a business trip to Boston a while back.

Me, the hapless suit, after an all day meeting, was in search of a decent restaurant in Boston. It was a brutally cold November evening, and Boston may not be the ideal city to wander around in at night. So, I asked a passer-by, an elderly lady, for directions to Quincy Market.

"Keep walking up this street," she indicated with a bony index finger. "Turn left at City Hall. It's just below that."

"But, I don't know what City Hall looks like," I protested.

The little old lady smiled, gently tapped my arm and resumed her walk in the opposite direction.

I had no choice but to trudge on and follow her suggested route, and then I saw it . . . .

Hideous, gargantuan, grotesque concrete monstrosity that some architect surely regretted, as soon as it was constructed. God knows the taxpayers did (click here). I knew by the institutional style, a gulag for office workers, that it must be Boston's main municipal office headquarters. I was not mistaken.

. . .

Master blenders and malt masters are architects of a different kind. To my mind, these guys & gals are "architects of flavor." They have a distinct advantage over their brick and mortar colleagues. If a master blender or malt master erects a Boston City Hall monstrosity of a blended scotch or single malt, they can undo the damage in subsequent years by adjusting the recipe: whiskies chosen, tinkering with wood management (ex-bourbon, ex-sherry casks, European oak, American, etc), playing with ageing, level of peat and many other variables. Several distilleries have recovered from bad malts in this manner. Others have taken something great and run it down a bit. Take Lagavulin 16 years as an example.

Lagavulin 16 years
Some people will tell you that Lagavulin was in its hey-day in the early 1990's or even the 80's where a robust smokey, peat/medicinal attack upon the palate was delivered with utter elegance.

Today, they whine Lagavulin is less robust, softer and sweeter. Gone mainstream. Sold out to the masses. I have noticed in the last six or seven years some variation in taste. It seems to be getting slightly softer and less peated. Sweeter too.

What happened?

Nobody can say for sure unless they worked at the distillery and if they talk I would imagine that would breach employee/employer confidentiality, and result in being litigated into the stone age. However, we can still engage in some speculation.

Peating Levels
Thinking about Lagavulin back in the day and comparing it to today, I would say for starters somebody has tinkered with the peat levels. Not as smoky. Maybe the peat parts per million (ppm) have been purposely brought down.

On a Whisky Magazine forum (click here) a knowledgeable member (published whisky author) makes the claim that in the late 70's and into the 80's the peat ppm was 50, but by the 90's peating levels were reduced to a gentler 35 ppm. I happen to believe this claim about peating levels. If it once tasted of bigger peat and smoke and now less so, it would be logical to assume peating levels have come down. The Laga of today is less peated, more in the vicinity of Bowmore than Ardbeg or Laphroaig.

Wood Management
Obviously if the malt master makes changes to the type of wood cask (ie. American oak vs. European) there will be a difference in flavor. The same whisky author on the Whisky Magazine forum also claimed that a transition took place from ex-sherry cask usage to ex-bourbon. This would explain the malt becoming sweeter on the palate.

Distillery Hours of Operation
The Malt Madness website claims that during much of the 1980's the distillery only operated two days a week. However, by the 90's it was operating many more days per week. Is there a correlation between expanded operating hours of the distillery and flavor? Not sure but I do know that the pot stills can become over-heated when in constant operation and that presents a problem of foaming.

As you probably know, all whisky starts as beer at one point before being distilled into whisky. Distillers do not want that frothy beer head to get into the lyne arms of the stills. If that happens the whisky is ruined. In order to address this problem distilleries use "anti-foaming agents." And guess what that is? Basically soap or detergent. Click here for a more involved discussion on the Whisky Magazine forum that I initiated a while ago. One commenter wrote:

"Most distilleries use defoaming agents. Some may not - i'm not sure - but many have defoaming arms that rotate above the washbacks. At Springbank they suspend a bucket that tilts when the foam rises and lifts it, which applies the defoamer. I'm not certain of what agents are used and by whom, but many use non-perfumed soap flakes. Occasionally these distilleries produce soapy notes in the whisky (Edradour for example), and many feel the soap flakes are responsible. However, soap flakes are widely used by distilleries with no such issues, suggesting that the defoamers have no influence beyond distillation. As i recall defoamers are used in bourbon production also (i may be corrected)."

So soap in my whisky? Ouch! That might explain the soapy taste I detect in some malts, albeit rarely.

I have never detected the taste of soap in Lagavulin. But I wonder if the expanded hours of operation has affected the flavor profile. I am not sure anti-foaming agents are used at the Laga distillery. But, I give the example of anti-foaming agents to show that expanded hours may result in other measures taken that can possibly have an affect on flavor. Some people think the use of such agents has no adverse influence on flavor.

Malt Master Leaves

Change the malt master in charge of final decisions with respect to casks, ageing, peat levels, water supply and G-d knows what else and you are going to impact flavor. People come. People go. Every malt master will have his/her own style and tastes that will affect casks selected, proportion of blending, etc.

. . . .

Change can be good!

Most of the whisky critics praise the Lagavulin bottlings of the 1990's and look back longingly for them. Those super peaty beasts have won their hearts. But you know what? UDV/Diageo made a decision to change the flavor profile. Why?

They were probably convinced that the average consumer preferred a less peated, less smoky/medicinal flavor profile. And guess what? They were right. Demand for Lagavulin is in the stratosphere. The distillery probably runs 24/7, certainly more than the mere 2 days it once did. And guess what further? I prefer the Lagavulin of today over the one of the 1990's. I am in that crowd of preferring the softer profile.

So, what can we take away from this? Basically that malt whisky is in the hands of the architect of flavor, and his/her decisions have as much impact upon you as the architect that designed the cold war/Stalinesque, concrete open wound upon the city of Boston. The upside for the malt master is that if he screws up, he can fix it in a couple of years, by making strategic changes. As for the brick & mortar architect, unfortunately Bostonians can attest to the visual/psychological pain of one architect's mistakes that cannot be undone so easily.

Cheers!

Jason Debly

P.S. Marc-Andre is still a bachelor . . .

Copyright © Jason Debly, 2009-2012. All rights reserved except for certain photographs taken by people other than the author. Photo credits: (1) street level view looking to sky of Trump Tower taken by Jason Debly; (2) This is the cover art for the single Convoy by the artist C. W. McCall. The cover art copyright is believed to belong to the label, American Gramaphone, or the graphic artist(s); (3) Photograph of Boston City Hall taken by architectural photographer, Hagen Stier. Please visit his website as well as his Flickr profile in order to explore more of his great work. All world wide copyright of this photo vests with Mr. Stier, and no reproduction is permitted without his permission; (4) Fantastic photograph of a bottle of Lagavulin taken by Flickr member Greune Stee. All copyright and world intellectual property rights vest with this Flickr member and his permission is required for any reproduction; (5) Photograph of the Lagavulin distillery was taken by Flickr member take-m. All worldwide copyright vests with take-m and no reproduction is permitted without his express permission. As for the rest of the above blog post, any and all use is prohibited without permission. Note: All images appearing in this article are for the purposes of nostalgia, education and entertainment. Moreover, all images used are considered by the author to be significant in illustrating the subject matter, facilitating artistic/critical commentary, as it provides an immediate relevance to the reader more capably than the textual description.

Multinational Corporate Giant Diageo tangles with Anarchist/Punk Rock inspired BrewDog and gets Bitten!

2012-10-08T21:45:00.002-03:00

The other day I was trying to figure out what Diageo (the world's largest multinational alcohol beverage company) was doing to their Johnnie Walker product line up. You know they have discontinued my much loved Green Label, but they have also been tinkering with Gold Label.

Johnnie Walker Gold Label used to have an 18 year age statement. Not so anymore. The age statement has disappeared, and now it is Gold Label with the addition of the word "Reserve," but remains a blended scotch. They have also recently introduced "Platinum Label." It is the new 18 year old age statement blended scotch in the stable and priced in between Gold and Blue Label.

While web surfing on these weighty matters, I stumbled upon some unrelated and not so flattering stories about Diageo.

Back in May of this year, The British Institute of Innkeeping held their annual awards dinner. Weeks in advance of the awards ceremony, a small Scottish beer company, BrewDog, had been selected by committee as "Bar Operator of the Year." Now, before I go any further in this tale, I gotta fill you in a bit about BrewDog because it has some relevance to a turn of events later in this tale. . . well, at least in my mind.

BrewDog operate a number of brew pubs in the UK. In addition, they also produce about 120,000 bottles of beer a month for UK and limited international export. Now, here is where it gets fun. If you visit their website (click here) you are greeted by some hilarious, pushing-the-envelope, serious bad-ass, wannabe beer bravado:

"BrewDog is a post Punk apocalyptic mother fu*ker of a craft brewery.

Say goodbye to the corporate beer whores crazy for power and world domination. Swear allegiance to the uncompromising revolution."

These guys got some serious attitude. Especially when you consider past and present titles of their various beer bottlings: Punk IPA; 5 AM Saint; Sink the Bismarck and my favorite . . . Trashy Blonde.

They also pulled a publicity stunt by releasing "The End of History" ale in beer bottles made from dead squirrels (formerly roadkill - I'm serious). Actually, they just put out a mere twelve bottles. Heh heh! I suppose, animal loving, Brigitte Bardot will not be a corporate spokesperson for them any time soon. I also guess when you don't have a big advertising budget you try by other means.

So, now getting back to our story. BrewDog attend the awards evening, a gala dinner, and await the trophy. At the dinner, Diageo people learn, for the first time, of BrewDog's imminent award, and one of them (a senior executive) threatens the event organizer that "under no circumstances" was BrewDog to receive the trophy. If they do, Diageo will pull all future sponsorhip of the event.

So, you might be thinking at this point why would Diageo executives care about such an award? You would be forgetting that Diageo owns a very respectable/world class stable of beers like: Guinness, Red Stripe, Harp, Kilkenny, and Smithwick's Ale. (They also own a piece of a bar that would qualify them for the award.)

I also happen to think that BrewDog take great pleasure in launching subtle jabs (recall "corporate beer whores . . .") at the likes of Diageo. So, I would imagine the last thing Diageo wants to see is an event it sponsors make an award to a competitor that does nothing but antagonize them and take the beer industry in directions it views with consternation (see The End of History ales above). My point is: there's a history between these two competitiors.

Any how, so what happened?

The announcer read out the award category and declared the winner was Diageo. A Diageo executive hopped up on to the stage and accepted the trophy, complete with engraved plaque which read: "BrewDog: Bar Operator of the Year." Meanwhile, BrewDog people and members of the awards committee stared in disbelief.

BrewDog did not take this turn of events laying down. They went public with the matter on their blog and provided a quote from the chairman of the award committee:

"Diageo (the main sponsor) approached us at the start of the meal and said under no circumstances could the award be given to BrewDog. They said if this happened they would pull their sponsorship from all future BII events and their representatives would not present any of the awards on the evening.

We were gobsmacked as you by Diageo's behaviour. We made the wrong decision under extreme pressure. We should have stuck to our guns and gave the award to BrewDog."

Shortly thereafter Diageo apologized.

Senior Diageo executive, Andrew Cowan, in damage control mode.

. . .

So, you may be wondering why am I writing about a screwed up awards ceremony? First of all, I was shocked to read the stories. I mean we are in 2012!!! Isn't this the kind of dirty tricks, pseudo corporate Watergate type nonsense that doesn't happen anymore? Evidently not. Secondly, it reinforces my opinion that whisky award events are hardly independent/transparent evaluations of spirits, but rather just another opportunity for Diageo and other big spirits companies to promote their brands.

There is nothing wrong with marketing. Just don't lie to the consumer by claiming this bottle or that 'won' a 'gold' medal! Whisky 'competitions' should be replaced by whisky 'festivals' where companies present their wares and we, the people, celebrate them. Whisky critics, master blenders and learned brand ambassadors can chime in too. Some of those people we respect enough that we want to hear their thoughts. Festivals of this sort ultimately help the consumer, taste and decide for themselves! And . . . and the drinks companies benefit too by maintaining and hopefully expanding market share!

Accordingly, I have not wavered from what I wrote two years ago about the International Wine and Spirits Competition. Another corporate marketing opportunity at best. I always disregard such awards and medals trumpeted by the companies that own various scotch whiskies because I know they are nonsense. Explore the IWSC site and see for yourself how many scotch whiskies won "gold."

Cheers!

Jason Debly

P.S.: I really like BrewDog's marketing approach. It is unorthodox, points a stick in the eyes of industry players, all the while having a lot of fun doing what they do. More power to them.

Diageo on the other hand really need to clean up their act. In an unrelated matter they settled bribery charges in 2011. Click here to read the Wall Street Journal article about yet another tale of woe.

By the way, it should be noted that Andrew Cowan (pictured above) of Diageo was not the senior executive who threatened the BII organizer. Mr. Cowan is the executive tasked with cleaning up this public relations mess. An unenviable position to be in for sure, but he will probably succeed if he looks to other good corporate citizens such as LLBean. While LLBean is not nearly as large as Diageo, it is a billion dollar company (privately held) with an impeccable reputation. They worked hard to achieve such a reputation and more importantly maintain it. They sponsor events in their field of commerce, but never have this kind of scandal. Mr. Cowan will no doubt examine how his company got into this mess and plot a strategic plan to prevent it from happening again. Of that I am fairly certain. Call it a gut instinct.

Review: Springbank 15 yrs Single Malt Scotch

2012-09-30T02:11:00.002-03:00

I am standing at the bottom of my driveway on this Saturday afternoon. It's raining. Well, to be specific, it's a light drizzle, steadily pelting my face at a 45 degree angle, kinda stings a little (guess I won't be invited by Hollywood to reprise Bruce Willis' role in the Die Hard series any time soon). The sky is gray. Seriously gray. Maybe not fifty shades, but seriously overcast. A little chill in the air. The streets are a mass of puddles, and you know what? Life is good (Clearly, I do not suffer from Seasonal Affective Disorder).

Now, I want you to know that my sunny disposition has nothing to do with the Glencairn glass in my hand, as I stand at the bottom of my driveway, attracting nervous stares from neighbours peering discretely from behind their curtains and motioning for their spouse to come have a look at the lunatic across the street.

I am relishing this weather. I am looking at the fallen leaves and thinking to myself that whisky tastings need to get outdoors. I have lead a few whisky tastings and they are invariably indoors, in a bar, a boardroom, somebody's living room and that is okay, but it would be a mistake to limit such tastings to such settings. Let's take it outside! I think whisky tastings should be held on rainy afternoons just like this one.

Imagine a group of us doing a 10k hike through a forest, work up a bit of a sweat, take in the cloudy sky, direction of the wind, color of the leaves, the trees, the rain and air. We get to our destination, reach for a flask of say Talisker 10 and then discuss how its attributes of brine, sea air, smoke compliments the weather, the mood and crystallizes this moment in our memories forever. Wouldn't that be nice?

I have moved up to my front step (probably much to the relief of my neighbours and passing motorists). Still raining. On this fine, solitary, outdoor whisky tasting of mine, Springbank 15 years is the perfect accompaniment to this weather.

Nose (undiluted)
Smoky, pungent beach wood fire, interesting peat notes mixed with fresh turned over loam, more black earth, cold orange pekoe tea.

Palate (undiluted)
Ashy, sooty but with nice complexity. A weave of lentils, lime and gingerbread. The body of this malt is light but has presence. Oily character and medium peat.

Finish (undiluted)
Did somebody collect thicket forming thorny bushes from Winnie-the-Pooh's 100 acre wood and build a huge bonfire and bottle it? 'cause that is what I am tasting. Hmmm. Long finish of that briar patch smoke, charred oak. All well done!

General Impressions
I'm in the backyard now. No neighbours directly behind my house (thank God!), just a stand of trees and farm land. Contemplating this whisky (and trying to ignore the fact that my lawn is in dire need of a mowing) is a pleasure in this September rain, with a lazy wind that blows through ya rather than around.

My cousin, HD, in the NYC vicinity, introduced me to this scotch whisky. He's an Islay fan, so I was initially surprised he was enamoured with this Campbelton malt.

When I think of Campbelton, a recognized scotch whisky producing region of Scotland, I think of Glen Scotia, a distillery that has had its up and downs. The bottles I have had from that distillery have varied from good to poor, but all tended to be light, with some grassy notes and caramel. Not overly smoky or peated. There are only three distilleries in operation in Campbelton today. Springbank is another and it is held in much higher regard by the critics and the whisky consuming public.

What really surprised me about Springbank 15 was how oily, peated and smoky this malt was. If you visit the website for this distillery it provides a tasting note that is not at all congruent with my tasting experience. The distillery describes this whisky as tasting "creamy, raisins, dark chocolate, figs, marzipan, brazil nuts and vanilla. Finish: Oak and sherry notes sustain, mingling with hints of leather." I am not getting any of that. Fortunately, I am not alone in this observation. An anonymous reviewer at Whisky Connosr had the same disconnect with the distillery's tasting note. So, I guess I am not totally crazy, notwithstanding the opinions of my gossipy neighbours.

I guess the disconnect for me is the statement by the distillery on it's site that this whisky was 100% sherry cask. Huh? Sherry is hardly a feature of this malt in my opinion. If it is, it is well hidden underneath a fog of peat smoke and a pyre of beach driftwood. Just not getting the sherry influence here. Not a flaw. Just an observation. Bottom line: this is not what I would call a sherried malt regardless of the distillery's claim to be matured in 100% ex-sherry casks. The casks could not have been first-fill or at least not in very high proportion.

The 46% abv gives great intensity to the flavors of wood ash. I very much enjoyed this whisky without the addition of water. Well made for 46% abv. Not overpowering, but certainly asserts its personality very well.

Still in the backyard. The flowers have lost their bloom. Leaves are turning color and it is still raining. I don't mind because my Springbank warms me and I think I will hike through those trees at the back of the lot (that will give those neighbours something to talk about!).

Cheers!

Jason Debly

P.S. What about Springbank 10 years? I strongly recommend it but I should point out it is more sherried with an interesting layering of flavors. There is something artisian about what this distillery is doing. It is a very unique style. To my surprise I think I am more enthusiastic over the 10 than the 15. Go out and get a bottle and enjoy the lower price too!

Copyright © Jason Debly, 2009-2012. All rights reserved. Any and all use is prohibited without permission. Please note that the photograph of the bottle of Springbank 15 was taken by Flickr member ggmackem, who holds all copyright and no reproduction is permitted without her permission. My own photographs of Springbank were lost when my daughter dropped my blackberry in the swimming pool. Fortunately, I stumbled upon ggmackem's great photograph. All other photographs are taken by me, but I may permit reproduction if you ask nicely!

Review: Glenmorangie The Lasanta 12 years

2012-09-21T23:53:00.000-03:00

To have a basic understanding of the Glenmorangie Distillery, you need to start with Glenmorangie Original (pictured above).

The Original is a ten year old single malt. An introductory single malt that is aged exclusively in ex-bourbon casks (American oak) from Heaven Hill and Jack Daniels. Accordingly, it comes as no surprise that the malt is light bodied and enjoys flavors of citrus/orange, peach, mint and coconut.

Several other Glenmorangie releases basically stand on the shoulders of the Original. While the Original is a 10 year old single malt, several other bottlings from this distillery are 12 years, and those additional ("extra matured") two years involve time in casks other than American oak. Accordingly, their "extra matured" product line is composed of (1) Glenmorangie Quinta Ruban (extra matured in port casks from Portugal); (2) Glenmorangie Lasanta (extra matured in sherry casks from Spain); and (3) Glenmorangie Nectar D'or (extra matured in Sauternes casks from France). Clearly, this is a distillery that is well known for single malts with various "finishes."

'Finishing' a whisky refers to aging a whisky briefly for one or two years (could be more I suppose as there are no hard & fast rules) in a different cask that usually has previously held sherry, wine, port or other interesting spirit that is thought to compliment and nicely accent the distillery's whisky.

And that concept brings us to the subject of this evening's review: Glenmorangie The Lasanta 12 years

Nose (undiluted)
Limes, oranges, raspberries, fog hanging over a bay, and brine of the sea in the air.

Palate (undiluted)
Powerful arrival of sweet sherry! Huge! Big and spicy, raisins, plums, prunes and oak somewhere underneath. A tad fiery upon first opening bottle. Let a week pass and what was once hot becomes great warmth.

Finish (undiluted)
Tingling oak, drying with smoke and somewhat winey.

General Impressions
This is not a single malt that makes me swoon like a teenage girl at a midnight showing of Twilight. The Lasanta is an entry level sherry bomb. Not particularly sophisticated. Not what I would regard as exhibiting great complexity of flavors. But, it does deliver a nice velvety blanket of sherry, raisins and dark spiced fruits.

The price is very reasonable and among the lowest in the 12 year old single malt market segment. For that reason, I think you are getting fair value for the dollar.

It is chill filtered with an ABV of 46%. Hence, it packs a wallop. A few drops of water is needed to tame the wild and sometimes a tad hot palate. For some, they may want a teaspoon to a double pour.

When I first opened the bottle, the malt tasted a little hot and very slight bitterness on the finish. It softened up a bit after a week, becoming less hot and more like very concentrated dark chocolate. This is a bottle that gets better (up to a point) the longer it is open (within reason - ie. 4-6 months max).

The initial hot/bitter elements in taste are due in part to the high abv (46%) and the use of wood by the master distiller. Remember the Lasanta, for the first 10 years of its life was essentially the Original (a spirit aged exclusively in American oak), and then in a mere two further years of finishing becomes a bombastic sherried malt. The casks used were probably first fill sherry casks/butts for the most part. The use of such potently seasoned casks/butts may contribute to some 'woody' elements of taste and bitterness.

In any event, you should not be overly concerned about how it tastes upon opening because a little time and maybe some water will tame it to your liking. In general, this Glenmorangie is rather sweet once the bottle has been open for a bit.

Conclusion
This is a solid effort in the entry level sherried 12 year old malt marketplace. Lasanta competes with others like: Aberlour 12, GlenDronach 12, Balvenie Doublewood 12, and Glenfarclas 12. Is it the best of the sherried whiskies? Probably not, but is at or near the lowest price point. Something to consider in these times.

Cheers!

Jason Debly

P.S. - Want an example of a home run hit by this distillery? Try the Quinta Ruban.
Copyright © Jason Debly, 2009-2012. All rights reserved. Any and all use is prohibited without permission. Please note the photograph of the bottle of Glenmorangie was taken by Flickr member picmaker1 and he is the holder of all copyright. His photograph may not be reproduced without his permission. All other photographs were taken by Jason Debly and may be reproduced with credit and link back to this site.

Review: Red Stag Black Cherry by Jim Beam

2012-09-06T23:45:00.000-03:00

Tonight my plan was to watch a long forgotten Italian spaghetti western, Django (1966), and maybe follow it up with another cinematic epic: The Big Gundown (1966)

If I had the time, I would write a film review blog and explain in painstaking detail some of my favorite movies and genres (ie. spaghetti western and film noir). But, I do not have the time nor the discipline right now, so that project will have to wait. But, the plan was . . . to watch Django and revel in the cheesy Ennio Morricone influenced soundtrack (you know, eerie harmonica, ghostly vocals, staccato piccolo, where string music, gunshots and bullwhip sounds meet!) the terrible dubbing of English over Italian, the violent plot line and the obligatory, hard-done-by, alluring woman of ill repute with a heart of gold. I never got to Django or The Big Gundown though. You see, I was distracted by a really bad idea.

No, I am not referring to Vladimir Putin's latest manly publicity stunt of flying a motorized hang glider over Siberia in an effort to lead endangered birds on their migratory path south. Note the billowing white overalls. All this in an effort by Vlad to lead some white cranes to warmer climes. Stupid! I guess it is a slight step up from locking up, for two years, a feminist gaggle of punk rockers for an anti-Putin song performed in a Russian orthodox church.

No, it wasn't that that distracted me from my much anticipated tumbleweed film fiesta. The bad idea is below for your viewing displeasure:

Just read that publicity still one more time. Yeah. Let it sink in. Take some bourbon, flavor it with black cherry and what do you get? Answer: Red Stag Black Cherry by Jim Beam.

I am not going to dignify this alleged American whisky product with a proper tasting note. That's how much I hate this swill. It's slop.

What does it taste like? A mouthful of cherry flavored cough syrup, and heavy on the syrup. Horribly sweet. Great for shooters in a nightclub where the bar staff dance on the bar or ride robotic bulls (not you guys in the crowd . . . that comes later). And, I think I have hit upon the real target audience of this product: young people, college crowd, Jagermeister enthusiasts. Nothing wrong with being a part of that demographic or selling to the market segment, but don't bring to market a product has got to be the worst entry in the 'bourbon' field.

I wouldn't be so venomous in my dislike if they didn't market this stuff as bourbon. It does not taste like bourbon. It tastes like cheap liqueur that frat boys ingest after an evening of female rejection with a repetition that rivals the gunfire in my much loved spaghetti westerns.

Look at that label. Just below the big cap, red lettering, "Red Stag" appears the words: "Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey"

Nothing about this stuff tastes like bourbon. It tastes like Cherry coke with your favorite childhood cough syrup and a mouthful of cherry flavored Halls cough drops. Add the stuffy nose and you will feel as miserable as I do about this stuff.

This is a liqueur at best and a poor one at that. Super sweet, red licorice crap that is easy to shoot and get drunk on, but not a whisky within any normal meaning of the word. Might meet the legal definition of 'bourbon' according to some white shoe law firm down south, but sure as hell doesn't meet the definition for us. To my mind, Red Stag is not bourbon, it is not whiskey. It is alcohol infused cherry cola/cream soda marketed to the college and nightclub crowd.

The chief problem with this product for me, again, is the use of the words "Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey." Use of those words on a label will attract the attention and spending habits of the serious whisky fan. Such a consumer will be very disappointed with what this product delivers. This is not serious bourbon. This is not a good example of American whiskey. This is an aberration.

So, I ask why would Beam Global do this? I can just see the sheepish answer from suits in a boardroom: "Profits, expanded market share, attract younger people to whiskey . . ." This is a disappointing direction for the company to take, as they have many great American whiskey products like Jim Beam Black (fantastic bourbon and amazingly affordable!) and Maker's Mark (higher price point with commensurate quality).

Bottom Line: Think of Red Stag Black Cherry by Jim Beam as cherry flavored Jagermeister, and when you see it, run like hell in the other direction!

Cheers!

Jason Debly

Copyright © Jason Debly, 2009-2012. All rights reserved. Photo credits: (1) photograph of Vladimir Putin - Photographer: Alexey Druzhini; (2) Red Stag by Jim Beam promotional poster is a free download from jimbeam.com; (3) Photograph of members of Pussy Riot in custody - Misha Japaridze/Associated Press. Note: All images appearing in this article are for the purposes of nostalgia, education and entertainment. Moreover, all images used are considered by the author to be significant in illustrating the subject matter, facilitating artistic/critical commentary, as it provides an immediate relevance to the reader more capably than the textual description.