JeffCo Master Gardeners

Planting an Open Terrarium by Sonia Valdiviezo

2024-12-22T01:00:00.001-07:00

All photos by Sonia Valdiviezo

Materials needed

glass container of your choice (between 6” to 12” round)
variety of 1” fairy or bonsai plants (avoid using succulents
for this project)
½ -1.5 lbs of landscaping sand (do not use aquarium or beach
sand for this project)
1 lb to 2 lbs of decorative rocks for
planters
4-8 oz of horticulture charcoal
1-2 oz of dry sphagnum moss for
orchids (dry moss)
½ quart soil for indoor containers or Bonsai soil
5” x 5” sheet moss (preserved or live)
pair of gloves
spray bottle
plastic spoon (to be used for scooping)
pencil or skewer (to be used for digging)
Begin by creating the layers of your terrarium landscape:

Layer 1 SAND

Pour about a 1 inch layer of sand at the bottom of the container

Layer 2 ROCKS

Carefully set rocks evenly over the sand, being careful not to disturb the sand

Layer 3 CHARCOAL

Spread a thin layer (no more than ½ inch) of charcoal over the rocks

Layer 4 SPHAGUM MOSS

Be sure to moisten the moss before using, not too wet just damp and carefully place over the charcoal until it is about 1 inch deep and you cannot see any of the charcoal from the top view of your container.

Layer 5 SOIL

Using the scoop (plastic spoon) gently and carefully spread potting soil evenly over the sphagnum, until it is about 2 to 2.5 inches deep.

Plant Arrangement

Now it’s time to explore the arrangement of your selected plants before you start planting them into the soil. Play around with the arrangement of the plants to test how you want your terrarium to look. This step is very important, so take your time.

Start with the plants that will be placed on the edges, making sure to leave space between the plant and edge of glass container. (Do not place plants too close to the edge of the container or to each other. Leave space for the plants to grow and spread.) Once you’ve decided on the arrangement of your plants it’s time to plant them!

First, using your finger or a pencil, gently dig a hole about 1.5 – 2 inches deep and wide into the soil. Next, gently separate the plant from its original pot, making sure to not damage the roots. Lightly mist the roots of the plant and place in the hole. Press gently adding a tiny amount of soil if necessary to bury the roots completely beneath the level of the soil. Repeat this step for each plant.

Now, add bits of Sheet Moss (preserved green moss) or Live Moss strategically to add texture and dimension to the terrarium. Finally, using a spray bottle spritz or mist your terrarium evenly without overwatering.

Congratulations! You’ve planted a terrarium.

Snowy Tree Crickets by Caleigh Ryan-Melville

2024-10-30T01:30:00.003-06:00

Snowy Tree Cricket (Oecanthus niveus) Photo: Caleigh Ryan-Melville

Green, semi-transparent, communicators: three words that describe Oecanthus niveus. I first discovered this cute little insect as I was pruning some suckers off a tree in my front yard back in September. After quickly taking a few pictures, I uploaded them to the app, Picture Insect, to help me identify the insect that is commonly known as a snowy tree cricket.

Part of a larger order called Orthoptera, Oecanthus niveus are omnivorous creatures, feeding on leaves, fungi, fruit, and smaller insects, such as aphids [5]. Their chewing mouthparts create damage on leaves that appears as though a bite has been taken out of them.

While snowy tree crickets aid home gardeners by eating aphids, they are actually a household pest due to their habit of eating fabric. To prevent crickets from entering the home, maintain weeds in ornamental beds, keep piles of wood or rock away from the home, seal cracks around the foundation, and ensure there are no spaces at the bottom of exterior doors. If a cricket does enter the home, it can be vacuumed [1].

Snowy Tree Cricket (Oecanthus niveus) Photo: Caleigh Ryan-Melville

Female Oecanthus niveus have a narrower body, while males have a rounder abdomen. Males have a marking along their posterior abdomen that consists of three lines that look like a diagonal, upside-down F. Based on the abdomen shape and marking, the cricket in my yard appears to be a male [4].

Oecanthus niveus has one of the identifiable characteristics for insects in the class orthoptera: long, “hind legs modified for jumping” [2]. A common characteristic of the Gryllidae family that is shared by the snow tree cricket is the antennae that are as long as the body (if not longer.) This family consists of “true crickets,” and they are the only family capable of maintaining constant pitch to communicate with other cricket [3].

Male.

Drawing by B. B. Fulton (from Plate V, c, Fulton 1915).

During my deep dive into the snowy-tree cricket, I was interested to find that they are also known as the “thermometer cricket” since the frequency (or speed) of their chirps change with their temperature. The recordings on the Orthopterist Society’s website (linked here) demonstrate that the chirps become more frequent in warmer weather than cooler weather. You could actually do some math to use the number of chirps per minute as a measure of outdoor temperature [4].

References

Colorado State University. (2015). Colorado pest identification handbook (8th ed.). Retrieved September 29, 2024, from https://webdoc.agsci.colostate.edu/ipm/Colorado%20Pest%20ID%20Handbook%208-18-15.pdf
North Carolina State University. (n.d.). Order Orthoptera. Retrieved September 29, 2024, from https://genent.cals.ncsu.edu/insect-identification/order-orthoptera/
North Carolina State University (n.d.) Family Gryllidae. Retrieved September 29, 2024, from https://genent.cals.ncsu.edu/insect-identification/order-orthoptera/family-gryllidae/
Orthopterist Society. (n.d.) Snowy Tree Cricket. Orthopterist Society. https://orthsoc.org/sina/585a.htm
University of Wyoming. (n.d.). Oecanthus niveus (DeGeer). Retrieved September 29, 2024, from

https://www.uwyo.edu/entomology/grasshoppers/colorado/fact-sheets/oecanthus.html#:~:text=In%20Colorado%20Oecanthus%20niveus%20(DeGeer,to%20the%20 eastern%20 mountain%20 foothills.

Milestones and Memories with Trees by Susan Lee

2024-10-25T01:30:00.001-06:00

Photo by Johnny Lee

Planting trees has long been used to mark special milestones and remember our loved ones. Whether it celebrates a newborn or marks losing a loved one, trees have been important in our lives.

Planting Trees to Celebrate a Newborn

I visited Wormsloe a beautiful plantation in Savannah Georgia to see an almost 300-year-old plantation. I was excited to absorb the history of the place and learn all I could about the colonists. It is known for the ruins made of a tabby mixture of seashells, limestone, and sand in 1793. The building was just an outline of a once grand home. The plantation passed through the family and continues to be owned by descendants of Noble Jones.

According to the Wormsloe historians, in the 1830s George Wimberley Jones De Renne renovated the plantation by building a new classical library, three interlocking ornamental gardens, and the famous oak allée. George Frederick Tilghman Jones (1827–1880) wanted some privacy, so he changed his name to George Wimberley Jones De Renne and the spelling of Wormslow to Wormsloe. George Wimberley loved traveling to Europe and had his children receive their education in Europe. I was in awe of the 400 live oaks that he planted to celebrate the birth of his son. According to the tour guide, it was the custom in France for the father of a newborn son to plant a tree or trees. Once his son became a man, he could harvest the trees and build his own home. The trees are still there lining a 1.5-mile entrance to the estate. According to the Society of Architectural Historians, unfortunately, most of the trees were lost during a pine beetle infestation in the 1970s. George planted the oak allée more for beauty and grandeur than for the provision of wealth for his son.

There are similar European traditions regarding planting a tree at the time of a child’s birth. It is often a nut or fruit tree; both the child and the tree grow together through the years. In present-day France in Dordogne, the government is giving trees to parents of newborns to plant. Their idea is to help families put down roots and cool the city simultaneously.

Planting Trees when Losing a Loved One

Here in the United States, some people have a tradition of planting a tree when we lose someone we love. Lakewood Parks and Recreation has two memorial donation programs including planting a tree or purchasing a bench. The cost is $400 and the donations are guaranteed for ten years. During this time, the city will repair or replace the tree or bench when necessary. I was able to utilize this program when we lost a dear neighbor to cancer. He and his wife took care of our neighborhood park, so it seemed fitting to plant a tree in his honor. The oak didn’t make it through the first year. Lakewood replaced the tree before anyone even noticed.

Photo by Susan Lee

Here is a photo of the memorial tree that happens to be an Oak. In our case, we had a plaque made for the park in honor of our neighbor. If you don't want to do the plaque you can have their name engraved on a leaf which is located on the second floor of the Lakewood Civic Center.

Whether we plant 400 live Oaks or one Oak tree in a small neighborhood park, each tree is a wonder and makes our heart celebrate and remember.

Fall Gardening Project for Kids: Making a Terrarium by Carol Martin

2024-10-17T01:30:00.015-06:00

A spray bottle works best for watering: All photos by Carol Martin

What’s a terrarium? According to the experts at NASA Climate Kids,

"A terrarium is like an aquarium, but for plants instead of fish. It is made in just about any glass container. It is planted to look like a miniature garden or forest enclosed in its own little world."

A terrarium is a way of growing plants in an enclosed or partially enclosed container usually made of glass or plastic. Terrariums have gone in and out of popularity since the 1800s. In the Orangery at the Denver Botanic Gardens, they have several elaborate terrariums that would have been right at home in a Victorian drawing room.

Terrarium in the Orangery at the Denver Botanic Garden, York Street

You can make your own terrarium and it can be as simple or elaborate as you’d like. They are easy to establish and make a wonderful gardening project with kids as outdoor gardening winds down in the fall.

Supplies

Plastic or vinyl table cloth or small tarp
Glass containers – any size or shape

Michaels, Dollar Tree, ARC and other thrift stores are great sources for inexpensive glass containers. Clean the glass containers using soapy water and rinse well. Dry completely.

Glass containers

Gravel (plus a small scoop)

Gravel comes in many colors and sizes. Home Depot, Lowes and other garden centers carry some decorative gravel in their house plant sections. Aquarium gravel is available at pet stores and has the advantage of coming in a wide variety of colors and sizes.

Soil (plus a small scoop)

Soil designed for cacti works well in terrariums even if you are using other kinds of plants. This type of soil drains quickly and that is key to preventing the plants from rotting or developing fungus.

Plants

Succulents are often favorite plants for terrariums, but many small plants will work. Ferns and ground covers are good choices too. Closed terrariums require plants that thrive in high humidity but you have a little more leeway in an open terrarium.

Plants suitable for a terrarium

Spray bottle filled with water
Small plastic figures, rocks and sea shells

If you have kids, your house is probably filled with these things. If not, take a trip to the Dollar Tree and let the kids pick their favorite little figures. You can also look outside for pretty rocks or small pine cones.

Preparation

Cover your work space with a plastic or vinyl table cloth or a small tarp. Depending on the ages and personalities of the kids (we had a two year old, four year old and six year old), this project will most likely get a little (or a lot!) messy. If the weather is warm enough, make your terrariums outside.

Gather all of the supplies.

The work space could get a little messy

Building the Terrarium

Using a scoop, fill the glass container with an inch or two of gravel.

Depending on your child’s dexterity they may need help with this next part. Gently remove the plant from its container and slightly break up the root ball. Set it in the center of the terrarium and, using a scoop, fill the area around it with soil.

Using a spray bottle, water the plant and surrounding soil to make sure the plant is nestled in place. Most kids love using spray bottles and they will be less likely to flood their terrarium using a spray bottle than a watering can.

Now comes the really fun part: choosing and arranging the plastic figures and other objects in their beautiful new habitat. Any figure or object small enough to find a home in a terrarium will work.

Everyone has a sense of pride when they finish their terrarium

Place the terrarium in a safe spot, out of direct sunlight. Try to find a place where the kids can see and reach their terrariums in order to observe them and keep them watered. You will probably need to help them not OVER water, especially at first.

Sources:

Make a Terrarium Mini-Garden | NASA Climate Kids

Building a Terrarium - KidsGardening

Disclaimer: Jefferson County Master Gardener does not endorse any commercial products or businesses. Mention of products or businesses in articles, photographs, or videos does not mean endorsement.

Scouting Fall Flowers for Next Spring’s Planting by Carol Martin

2024-10-10T01:30:00.001-06:00

Purple Aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae): All photos by Carol Martin

Many gardeners, both novice and seasoned, see Fall as a time to put their gardens to bed. While this is an important task, I like to think of Fall as my first step in planning for the new plants I will put in my garden next Spring. Fall is the perfect time to take a look at your garden and evaluate whether you have enough plants blooming to make it attractive and to support our pollinators.

Here are some ideas and plant suggestions to keep your garden beautiful throughout the Fall months.

Before the first frost
Assess your garden to see if you still have plants blooming. Are there areas of your garden that are looking forlorn? Are there any colors that could make your garden more attractive to humans and/or pollinators? Are there any plants that have bloomed all summer and are still blooming? Maybe you want to plant more of that plant next spring.

2. Tour your neighborhood or local parks
Tour your neighborhood or local parks to see what is still blooming in other people’s gardens. I like to look at other people’s gardens first because these are gardens grown by people who live where you live and are not (most likely) professional horticulturalists. Start a list of potential plants for next spring by taking pictures and identifying the plants. If you have a smart phone, iPhone or Android, when you take a photo of a plant, it will automatically identify it. (Quick note about Google phones, use Google Lens instead of the Camera to identify images.)

3. Explore botanical gardens
Once you’ve explored your neighborhood, visit some botanical gardens such as Denver Botanical Gardens: York Street, Chatfield Farm and Plains Conservation Center, or Hudson Gardens to name a few. Keep in mind, for many of us, what we see at botanical gardens are both inspirational and aspirational. These gardens are tended by teams of full time horticulturalists so your results may vary. That being said, be inspired, take more pictures and add to your plant list.

Plant Select
Check out the Plant Select website at https://plantselect.org. Plant Select is a cooperative effort by Colorado State University, Denver Botanic Gardens and regional nurseries to develop plants that will thrive in the Rocky Mountain region. Their website makes it easy for gardeners to find plants that meet their needs. Using the advanced search feature you can search for Fall blooming plants that meet your requirements. Recently I was looking for a Fall blooming perennial with orange blossoms. Plant Select suggested Coronado Hyssop (Agastache aurantiaca) which is now at the top of my spring planting list.

Coronado Hyssop (Agastache aurantiaca)

CSU extension
CSU extension has a list of over 100 fall blooming plants for you to consider as you add to your Spring planting list. The link to the document is listed below.

A few of my favorites
Purple Aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae) – This compact, easy to grow plant bursts into gorgeous purple blossoms in the late summer, providing much-needed color and vital nectar for pollinators right when much of the garden has finished for the season.

Autumn Joy (Hylotelephium 'Herbstfreude’)

Autumn Joy – The name says it all. These plants are sturdy and easy to grow, providing blossoms in pale pink to deep burgundy. Because of its thick, succulent leaves, which can store water, Autumn Joy is drought tolerant.

Blanket Flower (Gaillardia)

Blanket Flower (Gaillardia) - Gaillardia plants are wonderfully colorful and long blooming native wildflowers. They are not technically fall blooming because they start blooming in early to mid-summer. However, they commonly bloom until the first frost in the fall so they are a great addition to any fall garden. Their seed heads are also beautiful providing late fall and even winter interest.

Sources:

PlantSelect - Smart plants inspired by the Rocky Mountain region

https://extension.colostate.edu/docs/pubs/garden/color.pdf
Blooming Color By Season by Laura Pottorff, Colorado State University Cooperative Extension

Photo credits:

Coronado Hyssop (Agastache aurantiaca): Carol Martin

Purple Aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae): Carol Martin

Autumn Joy (Hylotelephium 'Herbstfreude’): Carol Martin

Blanket Flower (Gaillardia): Carol Martin

More than a Warm Wool Sweater by Patty Coughlin

2024-10-02T01:30:00.001-06:00

Capella Ranch, Lafayette All photos by Patty Caughlin

Last May, I had the opportunity to visit the Bee Huts at Capella Ranch in Lafayette, CO. While touring the Ranch, I saw the sight above. It looked like snow, but after talking with Carolyn, one of the owners, she told me that this was “waste wool” from sheep that was covering the new plants and seeds! My curiosity was piqued - I had never heard of wool being used for gardening mulch, so I decided to investigate.

Most of the studies on wool mulch, I found, have been done using sheep wool. While most of the wool obtained during shearing is used in textile production, 20% of it - the “waste wool” from the hind area and underbelly, is discarded. During Covid, when interest in home gardening exploded, this waste wool, an organic, biodegradable substance, found its niche.

What are the benefits of using ‘waste wool’ in the garden?

Water savings
Fertilization
Increased porosity of hard clay soils
Pest control

Wool acts like a sponge, holding up to 20 to 30 times its weight in water. Think of wearing a wool sweater in the rain. Wool “wicks away” water from the skin. When mixed into the soil, wool holds the water closer to the plant roots, allowing a “slow release” action, helping to avoid overwatering. In turn, this aids in water conservation. Albert Wilde, a 6^th generation sheep rancher from Utah who has patented the development of wool pellets as a gardening supplement, worked with university research teams, conducting a “wilt study.” This study involved planting identical plants in 4” pots, each with an equal amount of water to start, then observing how long it took the plants to die without the reintroduction of water. Here is what they found:

Traditional soil had wilting plants on days 1 and 2 and dead plants on days 5 and 6
Soil married with wool had wilting plants on days 7 and 8 and then dead plants on day 14

Wool is also an excellent fertilizer. Wool is high in Nitrogen (9.3-14% compared to compost which contains 1-2%) and it biodegrades slowly, typically over 1 – 2 years. Wilde, in conjunction with Utah State University Extension researchers, found that greenhouse-grown tomatoes could be market-ready in half the time if wool pellets were added to the soil (76 days (about 2 and a half months) to 38 days). They liked the nitrogen pop!

Because of its ability to absorb so much water, wool can also aid in breaking apart impacted clay soils, thus increasing the passage of oxygen and nutrients to the plant roots.

Finally, observational studies have shown some benefits in pest control. The shaft of the sheep wool fiber contains barbs. Think about how wool is “scratchy” on the skin. This is due to the barbs on the wool fibers. Slugs and aphids may be deterred by the barbs, though I could not find any research studies to verify this. There have been some reports of the deer being repelled by the smell of the wool.

Waste wool can be purchased from local ranchers, and wool pellets can be purchased online from several sources. I just googled “waste wool” and multiple sites popped up.

"After" showing plants growing with wool mulch

So next time you put on your warm wool sweater, remember the agricultural benefits of wool mulch!

“4 Reasons to introduce wool into your garden”, American Wool, May 21, 2021.
https://www.americanwool.org/4-reasons-to-introduce-wool-into-your-garden/

“Wool: A Natural Bio-Enhancement for Gardens”, Jaelyn Whaley, South Dakota State University Extension, June 6, 2024.
https://extension.sdstate.edu/wool-natural-bio-enhancement-gardens#:~:text=Wool%20increases%20soil%20water%20holding%20capacity.&text=Mixing%20wool%20into%20the%20soil,sustainable%20way%20to%20conserve%20water

“The Use of Wool in Compost and other Alternative Applications”, Ohio State University Sheep Team, Dr. Cate Williams, March 23, 2021.
https://u.osu.edu/sheep/2021/03/23/the-use-of-wool-in-compost-and-other-alternative-applications/

Special thanks to Carolyn Peterson, owner of Capella Ranch for allowing me to visit the Ranch and take pictures!

November Tomatoes?! by E. J. Bennett

2024-09-28T01:30:00.001-06:00

Originally posted in October 2015 and still great information about prolonging your tomato harvest.

Photo taken October 25, 2014

Whether by global warming or just a local climate hiccup, this year’s unusual fall weather has gardeners happily plucking tomatoes from the vine past Halloween. Most years, however, we have to consider the eventual demise of our tomato production in late September or early October. October 9 is our average first frost date in Denver, but 1944 holds the record, when frost wasn’t seen until November 15^th! (guess it was busy freezing the Ardennes Forest over in Europe that year).

If you want to maximize your tomato output through first frost, follow these simple steps in late August or early September:

1. Ruthlessly evaluate and prune your tomato plants. Vines with only flowers? Out. Vines with tiny green tomatoes? Out. Leave only the tomatoes you think have a chance of maturing before first frost.

2. Shock your tomato plants. No, this doesn’t mean gardening in your thong. The act of pruning, above, will stimulate the plant to bring the remaining fruit to maturity. But you can also use your shovel to cut some of the plant’s roots (dig straight down with your shovel 3-4 places in a circle around the plant, 6+ inches out from the base of the plant) and reduce total water to the plants by a third or more.

3. As the weather cools, cut remaining foliage back so the sun strikes the remaining fruit during the day. The additional solar heat will help them mature.

4. Pick tomatoes when they show the first blush of color and let them finish ripening inside. This allows the plant to put its resources into the remaining green fruit. Once picked, they won’t continue to add sugar content, but they will mature, add color and soften.

5. Don’t add fertilizer to speed up the process. It simply encourages new foliar growth and won’t help the fruit already hanging on your vines.

6. Cover plants if a light frost is predicted. If you have time and inclination, cover your plants at night to the ground, using tarps or lightweight plastic sheets. I use the largest black trash bags I can find (drum liner -55 gal size, big box stores) and simply pop them over the plant, tomato cage and all. They’re relatively thick, reusable, fast, don’t blow off in most wind, and won’t break the plant. My cages are fairly short, however, so you may need plastic sheeting for tall cages, in order to reach the ground.

6. Once day-time high temperatures are consistently in the low sixties, it’s time to throw in the towel and bring in the crop! Tomatoes won’t grow in very cool weather.

What do I bring in and how do I ripen it?

Fruit must be brought in before the first frost. For fruit that has already started to color, sitting on your counter for a few days is generally enough to finish ripening. Picked tomatoes don’t need sun to ripen.

Fallen leaves on ripening tomatoes-a nice long autumn!

And that armful of green tomatoes you harvested right before the hard frost? Bring in only fruit at least three-quarters of its adult size, and only attempt to ripen unblemished fruit. Personally, I put my green tomatoes in a shoe box (one or two layers) and lay waxed paper on top (held down with a section of newspaper). I find I get the right humidity with this. For faster ripening, I’ll place a banana in with the fruit, as it releases ethylene gas, which is a ripening agent. There are as many theories of how to ripen fruit inside as there are gardeners! For more on ripening tomatoes in your home, click on: https://planttalk.colostate.edu/topics/vegetables/1831-ripening-tomatoes-indoors/. Enjoying homegrown tomatoes with the first flakes of snow falling…Priceless!

Crevice Garden Building Workshop by Nancy Shepard

2024-09-21T08:05:00.003-06:00

Crevice garden at the Denver Botanic Gardens Photo: Denver Botanic Gardens

I recently attended a crevice garden building workshop put on by Plant Select® and hosted by CSU. Plant Select is a non-profit collaboration of Colorado State University, Denver Botanic Gardens, and professional horticulturists (https://plantselect.org/.) The workshop was part of a two-day Plant Select conference specifically for landscape professionals. Landscape companies are increasingly using plants from the Plant Select collection because they flourish with less water and are tough and resilient in challenging climates such as our Rocky Mountain region. They told me they also have been getting more requests from their clients to build crevice gardens. CSU supplied the large bare expanse of an ugly eyesore outside the doors of the Colorado State University Horticulture Center.

"Before" photo of planting area outside of Colorado State University Horticulture Center Photo: Google Maps

This workshop featured Kenton Seth who I had heard talk at the 2023 Plant Select Conference. Kenton is well known as a crevice garden guru who also happens to live in Fruita, CO. For details about Kenton see the end of this article.

Within just five hours, the workshop participants built seven crevice gardens with different types of materials such as red flagstone, rip rap and even the remnants of someone’s concrete driveway. Plant Select arranged to have tons of a soil mixture called “Goldilocks” that consisted of sand, breeze and a small amount of compost (10 %.) Note that it is a very porous and gravely mix unlike the soil in our yards.

Team building a crevice garden from flagstone. Photo: Nancy Shepard

While I won’t try to summarize all the steps in building a crevice garden (see more resources below,) I’ll share a few key take-always for me:

Recycled dyed concrete

Recycled dyed concrete. Photo: Nancy Shepard

One of the crevice gardens was built using recycled dyed concrete. Kenton told the story of a client who had just had her backyard concrete patio demolished to make way for new landscaping. The pile of concrete sat in the corner of her yard waiting to be hauled away. Kenton saw an opportunity for the client to save money – use the broken concrete and avoid paying for crevice building rock to be delivered. Ross Shrigley, director of the Plant Select organization, described how he dyed pieces of demolished concrete by using “Reactive Concrete Stain.” He had already experimented with the technique several years ago and said the stain has not faded on those pieces he tested. He said you can continue to apply the dye after the crevice garden is built by spraying undyed areas as they lay in the ground. Here’s a picture of Kenton and the completed stained concrete crevice garden that a team created.

Kenton talking about the recycled concrete crevice garden built by workshop participants. Photo: Nancy Shepard

Bare root planting

Kenton demonstrating bare root planting. Photo: Nancy Shepard

When it came time to start planting in the crevice gardens, Kenton told us about bare root planting, the only way he does planting now. He said plants adapt faster to their new soil, especially the plants typically planted in rock and crevice gardens because the potting soil they are started in is not the type of soil they can thrive in. To see a great video about bare root planting, hear Grace Johnson, a horticulturist at the Denver Botanic Gardens: https://youtu.be/4E4d_Rw2zes.

Photo: Denver Botanic Gardens

The key advantages of crevice gardening are more plants and less watering. Here is an illustration from Kenton's book, "The Crevice Garden" showing how crevice plants grow deep into the crevices.

In the crevice garden, a wide range of plants can be offered a variety of positions for both their tops and roots. Illustration by Kenton Seth

It's Ok to break the rules

Several times during our day long workshop, Kenton would remind us that it is Ok to break the rules. If you see crevice building instructions that have specific rock alignment or specific size gaps between rocks, that doesn't mean you have to do yours like that. He encouraged us to experiment because building crevice gardens is a creative process that evolves as it progresses.

Team building a crevice garden out of rip rap stone. Photo: Nancy Shepard

More about Kenton Seth

Kenton is a Colorado-based garden designer specializing in crevice gardens, xeric native and meadows. Kenton worked in public horticulture at a local botanic garden for ten years and then in the nursery trade for several more before starting his design/build company, Paintbrush Gardens in 2013. He writes for a variety of local, national, and international magazines and travels to lecture, from across town to across the seas. For more information see his blog: https://kentonjseth.blogspot.com/

Resources to learn more about crevice garden building

https://arapahoe.extension.colostate.edu/2024/05/02/gardening-in-the-cracks/
https://ucanr.edu/blogs/blogcore/postdetail.cfm?postnum=55202
https://extension.psu.edu/crevice-gardens-life-between-the-cracks
https://gardens.duke.edu/garden-talk-060123
https://www.fortlewis.edu/fort-lewis-college-news/news-detail/where-the-orostachys-iwarenge-grow

The Crevice Garden: How to make the perfect home for plants from rocky places by Paul Spriggs and Kenton Seth

https://www.filbertpress.com/our-books/the-crevice-garden

Ewe Should Mulch Your Garden: Using Animal Wool as Garden Mulch by Kara Olyowski

2024-07-02T01:30:00.005-06:00

Wool mulch in my garden: Kara Olyowski

Mulching is a key practice in any garden, providing numerous benefits from moisture retention to weed suppression. While traditional mulches like straw, wood chips, and leaves are commonly used, there's an unsung hero in the world of mulching: animal wool. This season I intertwined two of my passions, gardening and fiber arts, and I’m experimenting with wool mulch in my herb garden. Let's dig into why you should consider this natural and sustainable material for your garden.

What is Mulch?

Mulch is “any material that provides protection and improves the soil when applied to the soil surface.” There are many different types of mulch from organic (wood chips and grass clippings) to inorganic (gravel and rock.) Using mulch in your garden helps in many ways. By applying a thick layer of mulch it helps suppress weeds. It allows the soil to stay moist longer by slowing down evaporation from the sun. Mulch also helps combat erosion by providing a barrier to hard soil for rain to fall on and cause runoff. Lastly, mulch will break down over time and add to the soil’s nutritional capability and texture. These are all great reasons why spending time now will pay off dividends later in your garden!

What is Wool Mulch?

Wool mulch is essentially the fleece of sheep or other wool-bearing animals, like llamas or alpacas, that hasn't been processed into yarn or fabric. It can come in various forms, including raw fleece, felted wool, or wool pellets. Every year farmers and ranchers shear their wool-bearing animals and have what is called waste wool from the process. This is less desirable wool for yarn that comes from the animal’s belly, neck, legs, and backside, but is perfect for use in the garden. You can find waste wool on Facebook Marketplace, Etsy, Craigslist, and talking to local producers at 4-H events and county fairs.

Llama; photo by Kara Olyowski

Benefits of Wool Mulch

Wool mulch has all of the same benefits as typical organic mulches. In addition, wool can hold up to 30% of its weight in water making it an excellent choice for retaining soil moisture in our dry climate. Wool takes a long time to break down and as it does, it slowly and steadily releases valuable nutrients, like nitrogen, into the soil for your plants. When you look at the texture of wool under a microscope, you will see tiny scales. These scales look like barbs to slugs and snails and deter them from crawling on the mulch and onto your plants. Lastly, using wool makes use of a renewable resource that might otherwise go to waste.

How To Use Wool Mulch

I am using raw llama fleece in my herb garden. First, I made sure the fleece sections didn’t have any vegetable matter or twigs in it. I spread it around each of my plants, creating a layer about 2-4 inches thick. Some companies are realizing the benefits of this resource and are creating wool pellets. These wool pellets are being marketed as a fertilizer and not as a mulch.

Incorporating animal wool into your mulching routine is a great way to promote healthier plants and more efficient water usage. Its unique properties make it a good choice for gardeners seeking sustainable and effective solutions. Give wool mulch a try, and your garden may just thank you for it!

For further information you can check out:

4 Reasons to Introduce Wool into your Garden

The Use of Wool in Compost and other Alternative Applications

Mulching: CMG GardenNotes #245

These are my photos:

A picture of my herb garden with wool mulch

A picture of a llama before he is sheared.

How Does Your Inner Garden Grow? by Jennifer Hamlin

2024-05-31T01:30:00.007-06:00

Photo: Anna Shvets, pixels.com

Have you ever felt refreshed in some fashion after just visiting a local garden nursery or simply sitting outside? Harvard biologist, Edward O. Wilson coined the term for this phenomena, effectively known as biophilia. Wilson’s theory suggests humans are intrinsically drawn to the natural environment, to plants, and all living things and that we benefit from this symbiotic relationship. This innate calling to nature is embedded in each of us.

As many gardeners inherently know….though often considered very hard work….gardening is also therapy. From the therapeutic aspects of physically digging and tending a garden….to the mental, emotional, and even spiritual space gardening allows our souls to explore our internal and external world more deeply. This connection is actually supported by a great deal of scientific evidence as to how gardening or “green therapy” benefits our health in a variety of dimensions.

As a horticultural therapist, not only to do I love to garden personally, but I have the immense pleasure of watching how gardening has a profound impact on my patients and clients on a regular basis. I’ve worked with all ages, some with a disability (cognitive and/or physical), some who are life-long gardeners and some who have never had any interest in tending a garden. What’s especially interesting to me in my work is how the benefits of garden-based therapy benefit everyone, regardless of their skill or interest level. It is easy for me to see the theory of biophilia in action in every case. There is an increasingly large body of research (Thompson, R., “Gardening for Health”) in support of positive outcomes for integrating some level of green therapy into our lives. The most important aspect is truly just being in, around, or exposed to greenery and it’s increasingly beneficial when our skin comes into physical contact with plants and the soil! Research highlights health benefits including lowered blood pressure, lower cortisol levels, increased nutritional intake, decrease in reported depression and other mood disorders, and even lowered levels of needed medications for many chronic illnesses!

Another example of how gardening can support our overall wellbeing is recognizing how the natural cycles within nature mirror our own experiences in many ways. For example, a garden must have a season of rest every year. This season varies by climate and location, but regardless, the garden must rest in order to be effective and produce and so must we. We can learn a great deal from taking our cues on the rhythms of life from nature. So too, we benefit from learning about and practicing resiliency when watching the same in the garden, tending the weeds, managing the pests, and stopping to enjoy the fruits of our labor.

Becky Martinez, www.1stAveFarm.com, Garden Journal

I recently had the opportunity to meet with the owner of 1^st Avenue Farm in Denver, Colorado (1stavefarm.com), Becky Martinez. She knows first-hand how gardening benefits our overall well-being and is passionate about sharing in both her local community and those abroad. She’s authored a Garden Therapy Journal (available on Amazon) with thought provoking journal prompts which take the natural processes in nature and encourage the reader to “dig-deep” within their own experience to till the soil of their soul. Topics include creating space for our roots to grow and pulling the weeds that stand in the way of our growth!

Taking time and space to dig in our gardens….both in nature and within our souls is always time and effort well-invested. Wishing you a bountiful harvest with both this season!!

Further Reading:

· The Well-Gardened Mind, by Sue Stuart-Smith

· Seedtime and Harvest: How Gardens Grow Roots, Connection, Wholeness, and Hope, by Christine Purifoy

Source: Thompson R. “Gardening for health: a regular dose of gardening.” Clin Med (Lond). 2018 Jun;18(3):201-205. doi: 10.7861/clinmedicine.18-3-201. PMID: 29858428; PMCID: PMC6334070 Accessed: May 23, 2024, https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6334070/

New Plant Hardiness Zone Map by Amy Norwood

2024-05-08T01:30:00.001-06:00

https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/

The United States Department of Agriculture recently revised its Plant Hardiness Zone map. Much of the Denver metro area was changed from a zone 5b to a zone 6a. As a result, some plants that were previously considered unable to survive the winter here (annual plants) are now viewed as able to survive the winter here (perennial plants.)

The Plant Hardiness Zone map works like this: plants that can survive the harshest weather survivable by a plant are classified as zone 1a plants (this is high altitude Alaska). The most tender plants that can only survive the winter where temperatures never fall below freezing are classified as zone 10b plants (this is south Florida). Each zone on the map covers the average lowest temperature range that could be expected to occur in that zone during the winter (not the lowest temperature that has ever occurred or will possibly occur in the future.) The Denver metro’s new 6a average low temperature range is minus 10 to minus 5 degrees Fahrenheit.

In its press release announcing the new map, the USDA said that about half of the US shifted into a warmer half-zone (that includes us,) while the remainder stayed in the same zone. The USDA says that the shift into a warmer zone does not necessarily reflect global climate change. The new map was created based on data from thousands more weather stations and using better mapping technology than the previous map, which was issued in 2012. That is an explanation for the shift.

So, when plant shopping this spring, should you load up on zone 6a plants and expect them to survive the winter? The answer is, it depends. The following are some thoughts on how to use the Plant Hardiness Zone map in making your plant purchasing decisions.

First, the Plant Hardiness Zone map doesn’t take into account extreme weather events. For example, you who lived around here in 2014 might remember the polar vortex event we experienced in the fall. The fall weather had been warm and sunny when a polar vortex roared in, dropping air temperatures by about 70 degrees in 24 hours. Trees and shrubs that normally would have survived the winter weren’t prepared for the rapid temperature change and died as a result.

Second, the Plant Hardiness Zone map doesn’t take into account microclimates. Microclimates are everywhere. An easy microclimate to envision is areas that receive direct sunlight in winter versus areas that don’t. Snow melts much more quickly in the areas that receive direct sunlight. In the spring, plants break dormancy and start growing in direct sunlight areas before they do in shaded areas. The soil stays warmer throughout the winter in direct sunlight areas.

All of this is to say that if you buy plants in the more tender temperature ranges, here zones 5 and 6, they have a better chance of surviving the winter if they’re planted in south or west facing areas that receive direct sunlight throughout the winter. Also, covering these plants helps them to survive an imminent extreme weather event. I have a front yard that faces northeast and a backyard that faces southwest. In theory, because the Colorado front range is a zone 6a, I should be able to grow perennial plants labeled for that zone in my front yard, but I can’t. They die because my front yard is a cold, dark place in the winter. The same plants come back year after year in my very winter-sunny back yard.

Other considerations about plant shopping using the Plant Hardiness Zone map are as follows. Most garden centers and big box stores will lay out their plants for sale in two areas, annuals and perennials. Perennials will be labeled with tags saying they’re for zone 6a or below. You buy these plants with the expectation that you’ll plant them in the ground, they’ll die off in the winter and then re-grow the following spring. Annuals are labeled for zones 6b and above. These plants aren’t expected to survive the winter. They’re often the plants you buy for flower pots and vegetable gardens.

When shopping for plants in the spring, always read the tag to see the plant’s Plant Hardiness Zone number. In the hubbub of spring plant selling, plants can be misplaced in the store (annuals in the perennial section and vice versa.) Where you find the plant in the store might not accurately reflect its hardiness zone. Also, the name of the plant won’t necessarily tell you whether it’s an annual or perennial. Lavender is a good example of this phenomenon. Some varieties of lavender are perennials in Colorado and others are annual. You need to find the hardiness zone number on the plant’s tag to know what lavender you’re buying (I’ve been burned by this mistake before – don’t let it happen to you!)

Last but not least, the Plant Hardiness Zone map really only applies to plants planted in the ground, not to plants planted in pots. In winter, the soil in the ground is warmer than the soil in a pot. So, a perennial that would likely survive the winter planted in the ground is less likely to survive planted in a pot. If you’re planting a perennial in a pot and hoping it will come back the next year (a worthwhile effort to make, especially if the pot is a large focal point in your outdoor space,) buy a perennial at least two zones lower and cover the plant during extreme winter cold spells.

Local news about our new Plant Hardiness Zone 6a:

https://www.denverpost.com/2024/02/19/colorado-growing-zone-change-map-temperature/

Plant Hardiness Zone map and how to use it:

https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov

https://www.ars.usda.gov/news-events/news/research-news/2023/usda-unveils-updated-plant-hardiness-zone-map/

More information about plant hardiness, dormancy and temperature related plant injury:

Hort.extension.wisc.edu/files/2023/12/New-USDA-Cold-Hardiness-Zone-Map-copy100.pdf

More Plants for Hummingbirds by Amy Norwood

2024-04-30T01:30:00.002-06:00

Cuphea Photo: White Flower Farms

If you’re looking to attract hummingbirds to your outdoor space this season, this blog has an excellent post titled “Plants for Hummingbirds,” dated May 20, 2021. It mainly talks about two perennial flowers in an in-ground flower garden, Sunset Hyssop and Red Birds in a Tree that are very attractive to hummingbirds. But, what if you want to attract hummingbirds but you don’t have an in-ground flower garden?

You can also attract hummingbirds with annual flowers in flower pots. What hummingbirds like is a plant with tubular shaped flowers (Sunset Hyssop and Red Birds in a Tree have such flowers). Two great annual flower choices that are readily available to buy at garden centers in the spring are Cuphea and Black and Blue Sage.

Black and Blue Sage (Salvia guaranitica) Photo: White Flower Farms

Cuphea has many varieties with different looks and colors. What these varieties have in common is an abundance of small tube-shaped flowers, just what hummingbirds like. Cuphea is a smallish plant that works well in mixed pots or in an only-cuphea pot with several cuphea plants. Every year I plant an only-cuphea hanging basket next to my back porch. I sit in a chair there and watch the hummingbirds visit the basket. If you sit still, hummingbirds will hang in the air in front of your face to check you out. Gardening doesn’t get more fun than that!

Black and Blue Sage is a variety of the plant Salvia guaranitica. It’s a tallish plant that’s quite showy with dark green leaves and spikes of cobalt blue flowers with black calyces. The flowers are, you guessed it, tubular shaped. Like Cuphea, it works well in a mixed pot or a pot planted only with Black and Blue Sage. It’s too tall to thrive in a hanging basket.

Both Cuphea and Black and Blue Sage require full sun to grow the flowers you need to attract hummingbirds. As with all potted plants, the soil in the pot should be a potting mix, not soil from a bag labeled garden soil or soil from the ground. Pots require drainage holes in the bottom so plant roots don’t drown when you water the plants. Potting mix has the necessary drainage capability to move the excess water away from plant roots. This may sound like a lot of do’s and do not’s, but if you’re new to flower pots, try planting one this summer. It’s not so hard to do. You’ll be rewarded with beauty and maybe some hummingbirds in your outdoor space.

Colorado State University Extension Fact Sheet 7.238 Container Gardens

https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/yard-garden/container-gardens-7-238/

Home and Garden Information Center, Clemson Cooperative Extension; hgic.clemson.edu

https://hgic.clemson.edu/cupheas/

North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox; plants.ces.ncsu.edu

https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/salvia-guaranitica-black-and-blue/

Grow Lights to Assist Seedling Growth by Brenda Sterns

2024-04-18T01:30:00.002-06:00

Have you wondered if all the hype surrounding grow lights is true and if these lights will help your seedlings grow better? Chances are, your online quest for answers left you tangled in contradictory advice. (I've been there myself while delving into this topic for Master Gardeners.) Perhaps you're now teetering between abandoning the idea altogether or impulsively snagging lights adorned with all the persuasive catchphrases, hoping for the best. Today, I hope to explain the cases where supplemental lighting is beneficial and guide you through the key specifications to consider when purchasing grow lights.

First, we need to step back and evaluate what light is needed during the seedling phase and what light actually makes its way into your home. There are three important aspects of light for plants – quantity, quality and duration. Light quantity is the number of light particles capable of performing photosynthesis. This means the amount of usable light that actually reaches the leaves. This is different from light perceived by the human eye. Light quality refers to the specific range of light wavelengths plants use to photosynthesize. As illustrated in the figure, blue and red wavelengths are what plants primarily use for photosynthesis.

Plants thrive on a consistent dose of light each day, with the required duration contingent upon factors such as light intensity and the developmental stage of the plant—be it seedling, vegetative growth, flowering, or fruiting. There’s a term - Daily Light Integral (DLI) - that brings together both intensity and duration in order to quantify the total light received by a plant over a 24-hour period. DLI is measured in moles of photons per square meter in a day. Different light sources (sun or grow lights) provide varying light quantities. To give an example, while a tomato seedling may meet its DLI quota in just five hours of full sun exposure, achieving the same DLI under fluorescent light might need a staggering 48-hour period—yes, all within a single day—owing to its lower photon output.

What DLI value do seedlings need – about 12 to 16 mol/m²/day. For reference, this is the same light levels needed for succulents and flowering houseplants (considered high indoor light level.)

Now let’s look at what light actually makes it through the windows into your home. Did you know that low-E glass windows can block up to 90% of light intensity? I decided to test my windows to see how much light intensity is blocked. I purchased a light meter and took foot-candle readings inside and outside the window at the same height at noon. I found the quantity of light that makes it through is 32%. You can use a light app on your phone to take your own measurements (inside foot-candle or lux divided by outside foot-candle or lux)*100%. An additional item to note is that the further away you move from your house’s window, the light availability diminishes for your plants. Fortunately, the quality of light is not affected by windows. Likewise, it's also important to note that the duration of daylight indoors doesn't match outdoor conditions due to obstructions such as walls and external objects that impede sunlight.

If you want to go further into determining what the actual DLI value is in your home at a specific location, please reference this website.

https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/HO/HO-238-W.pdf

To go into all the details to calculate DLI values would take too long for this blog. I will share with you the findings I had for my home 6” away from both south and west windows – 9.3 mol/m²/day and 5.6 mol/m2/day respectively. I definitely do not have the 12 to 16 mol/m²/day of light to grow healthy, strong seedlings with just the sunlight . I need supplemental lighting. Calculating DLI can provide a precise measure of light requirements, but there are simpler indicators to gauge if your plants need grow lights. Remember, seedlings have high light needs akin to succulents. If you notice your succulents or other high-light plants stretching and appearing spindly, it's a sign they're not receiving adequate light. Similarly, if plants that should be flowering fail to bloom despite proper care, insufficient light might be the culprit. If you observe any of these signs, it's worth considering adding grow lights to provide your seedlings with the light they need to thrive.

What to look for in grow lights?

The market is inundated with so many choices, and unfortunately there are several bad products available. All lights are not created the same, and remember this blog is only discussing needs for seedlings. Fluorescents, LEDs, and HIDs vary in cost and provide different specific or generic wavelengths and intensities. Prioritize manufacturers whose main focus is producing lights, rather than those who dabble in various products. Such specialists are more likely to offer lights tailored to plant growth needs. Additionally, read all the details for the grow light. Good manufactures will list specifications in plant light terms (PAR, PPF, PPFD). If purchasing LED lights, check to see if the LED diodes/chips are actually designed for plants (like from Samsung) instead of designed for the human eye. Seek out lights that offer a full spectrum covering wavelengths from 400 to 700 nanometers, or at least encompassing both the blue (400-499nm) and red (600-699nm) ranges. Single gooseneck lights or single LED tubes will only broadcast light to a small narrow area. Keep in mind your seedling tray dimensions and how much light area your grow lights need to cover. You may discover that you need several rows of lights. Regarding light intensity, the high end grow lights will give you a PPFD value which you want to be high (in the thousands). However, smaller lights like gooseneck types won’t give you an intensity indication and they have lower wattage due to their compact size. For these products you need to make sure that you are purchasing the correct wavelength ranges and you will need to adjust the light distance from the seedlings to get compact, strong growth. And with that last thought, examine how easy you can adjust the grow lights up and down. The intensity of the light will be stronger closer to the bulbs and quickly get weaker further from the lights. Some manufacturers will show you values at 6”, 12” and 18” from the light source.

I hope you understand better what seedlings need and what your house allows for natural sunlight. If you do need supplemental lighting, consider what I mentioned above and happy shopping.

Resources

Important considerations for supplemental light

https://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/important-considerations-providing-supplemental-light-indoor-plants

Factors to consider when purchasing lights

https://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/sources-supplemental-light-indoor-plants

Growing seedlings under lights

https://extension.unh.edu/resource/growing-seedlings-under-lights-fact-sheet

Two Great Flowers for Summer Outdoor Pots by Amy Norwood

2024-04-15T01:30:00.002-06:00

Plectranthus 'Mona Lavender' All photos by Amy Norwood

Outdoor flower pots are a joy of summer. As with all plants, the rule “right plant, right place,” applies to flower pots. Your flower pots will look their best if they are planted with flowers that match the pot's location in sun or shade. Here is a suggestion for a pot in each place.

For shade:

The shady place flower, Plectranthus ‘Mona Lavender,’ is commonly known as Mona Lavender, Lavender Spur Flower, or Swedish Ivy. It is not a lavender at all. It is in the mint family, Lamiaceae. Mona Lavender is a hybrid of two South African plants, Plectranthus saccatus and Plectranthus hilliardiae. Mona Lavender grows in the ground in zones 10 and 11. In colder climates it grows nicely in a pot, reaching a size of 1 to 2 feet tall and wide.

When you buy a Mona Lavender plant locally, it probably won’t be blooming yet, but that’s fine because the foliage alone is very attractive dark green with purple undersides. The plant starts blooming when the days get shorter. It keeps putting out new flowers until it freezes.

Plectranthus 'Mona Lavender'

Mona Lavender can tolerate a bit of morning sun, but it requires shade the rest of the day. I have a covered deck. Last summer, my first season with a Mona Lavender, I kept it in the middle of the deck so it got very little direct sunlight. My covered deck is a good outdoor spot for houseplants, but I’ve never been able to keep a blooming plant blooming there. I was thrilled to have the Mona Lavender bloom more and more with each passing day when my other flower pots were falling off as the days grew shorter.

Plectranthus 'Mona Lavender'

I didn’t try to overwinter my Mona Lavender in the house, so I can’t say how well it would do in that situation. The folks at North Carolina State University Extension say this is doable. They also say the plant can be propagated from stem cuttings.

For sun:

The sunny place flower is Lantana camara, commonly known as Lantana or Shrub Verbena. It’s in the Verbenaceae family, and its clusters of small blooms resemble verbena flowers. Like Mona Lavender, Lantana grows as a shrub in the ground in warmer climates. In Colorado it’s grown as an annual flower.

Shrub Verbena Lantana camara

Lantana is sold locally at most garden centers and big box stores in the spring. It’s available in a multitude of flower colors, lavender, pink, red, yellow, orange and white, and combinations of those colors, so there will be a Lantana that works in your sunny place color scheme. A single Lantana plant is a great addition to a mixed flower pot. Multiple plants in a single pot look very attractive, too.

I’ve grown a multiple-Lantana pot for years in an extremely hot location next to my house (the house reflects the heat.) Every other sun-loving flower burns up in this spot. The Lantanas thrive there. I keep the pot watered, but otherwise I do no maintenance. The Lantanas just keep growing throughout the season without deadheading or singed leaves. By the end of the season they are quite impressive, like the Mona Lavender. I’m always sorry to say goodbye to them when the frost comes!

Colorado State University Extension Fact Sheet 7.238 Container Gardens

https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/yard-garden/container-gardens-7-238/

North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox; plants.ces.ncsu.edu

https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/plectranthus-mona-lavender/

https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/lantana-camara/

Heat Mats for Indoor Seed Germination by Brenda Sterns

2024-03-21T01:30:00.000-06:00

Photo:Suncore

As March brings 50-60°F warm days combined with all the winter snows, our yards are showing slight signs of life. For many of us, this tinge of greenness ushers forth images of what our 2024 gardens will hold. What will we grow – vegetables, annuals, perennials? We know the last frost date is two months away and now is the time to start seeds indoors. As you eagerly grab your seeds, pots, and soil to start your best garden ever, take a moment to think about heat mats.

Let’s start with some benefits associated with heat mats.

1. The consistent warmth provided by a heat mat increases the number of seeds that germinate and provides synchronized germination.

2. Seedlings started on heat mats can exhibit faster growth rates compared to those grown without heat. The warmth from the heat mats promotes root development and enhances nutrient uptake.

3. Damping off, a fungal disease that affects seedlings, can be minimized by using heat mats. The heat mat creates a drier environment around the seedlings, reducing the likelihood of fungal pathogens thriving in moist conditions.

However, there’s more to think about. Let’s turn our attention to our house conditions. Where are you going to start your seeds? By a window, on the table in a common heated space, or in the basement where it is cooler? What type of seeds do you want to grow – warm season vegetables that prefer 80-85°F to germinate? Spring annuals that prefer 70-75°F temperatures?

If you are considering a window for seed germination (which later will meet your seedling light needs), realize that the temperature by the window will fluctuate throughout the day from lows (below germination needs) to highs (good for germination). I measured the daily temperatures at two windows over a cold week in February – one with low E glass and one with older double pane glass. For the low E glass location, temperatures reach 75°F and above for less than 3 hours a day. For the older double pane glass, the infrequency of being above 75°F is not conducive to seed germination.

Low E Glass (Brenda Sterns)

Old Double Pane (Brenda Sterns)

Some online sources recommend putting seed trays above your refrigerator. I measured the temperature above my refrigerator over several days. The thermometer shows between 68-72 degrees. This is not warm enough for seed germination in many cases. Plus what a pain it is to make sure the soil is moist and check for germination every day.

Soil temperature is actually cooler than the ambient air temperature – up to 5°F cooler. If you keep your house near 70°F during the winter months, this setting could translate to 65°F in the soil.

Heat mats can be a great aid to successful seed germination. If you do want to purchase a heat mat, please read all the specifications listed for the product. Is the manufacturer one who specializes in plant products and knows what to build? Do not get trapped by keywords that can lure you into a poor purchase decision. Not all heat mats are created equal. Understand that mats come set to a small temperature range or are adjustable across a large range. For fixed temperature mats, find out what the temperature range is. Some specifically state a range like 70-85°F which is good for warm season seeds. Some state a temperature range above ambient air temperature. Pay attention to Celsius and Fahrenheit on packaging (5-10°C is about 10-20°F). Consider if the upper temperature range could be too hot for the seeds you want to grow. Do you grow different types of plants that have different optimal germination temperatures - warm vs cool season plants? Do you change what you grow year to year? You may be better off with a variable temperature mat (or mats) where you can specify exactly to what temperature the soil is heated.

Resources:

CSU Grow and Give Starting Seeds

Seed Starting and Seed Saving – Grow and Give (colostate.edu)

Starting seeds at home

Starting seeds indoors | UMN Extension

How Plants Communicate When in Danger by Nancy Shepard

2024-03-14T01:30:00.001-06:00

Graphic: Phys Org

I’ve always loved the smell of a freshly mowed lawn. Little did I know that this smell is produced by the blades of grass signaling distress from being injured. Research has shown that plants emit volatile organic compounds (VOCs) into the atmosphere upon mechanical damages or insect attacks. Undamaged neighboring plants sense the released VOCs as danger cues to activate defense responses against upcoming threats.

The idea of “talking” trees started to take root in the 1980s. Two ecologists placed hundreds of caterpillars and webworms on the branches of willow and alder trees to observe how the trees would respond. They found the attacked trees began producing chemicals that made their leaves unappetizing and indigestible to deter insects.

Then, starting around 2018, scientists discovered that plants can communicate with each other by the use of chemical compounds. Here is how it works: If one of the network plants is attacked by caterpillars, the other members of the network are warned via an internal signal to upgrade their chemical and mechanical resistance—making their leaves hard to chew on and less desirable. This system works to spread the information among the plants and to ward off caterpillars.

See this for a fascinating video that shows plant leaves reacting to a caterpillar eating neighboring leaves. https://www.washingtonpost.com/climate-environment/2023/10/21/plants-talk-warning-danger/

(Masatsugu Toyota/Toyota et al, Science 2018)

“This is an early warning system, very much like in military defense, but then more effective: each member of the network can receive the external signal of impending herbivore danger and transmit it to the other members of the network,” said researcher Josef Stuefer from the Radboud University in the Netherlands. The attacked leaf is lost. However, the remaining leaves are protected against predators.

This discovery that injured plants emit certain chemical compounds, which can infiltrate a healthy plant’s inner tissues and activate defenses from within its cells, could be used soon to protect valuable crops in agriculture. A better understanding of this mechanism could allow scientists and farmers to help fortify plants against insect attacks or drought long before they happen.

Sources:

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3405699/

https://www.washingtonpost.com/climate-environment/2023/10/21/plants-talk-warning-danger/

https://www.livescience.com/1909-plants-communicate-warn-danger.html

https://www.esalq.usp.br/lepse/imgs/conteudo_thumb/Rick-Karban-has-researched-plant-communication-in-sagebrush.pdf

https://www.advancedsciencenews.com/how-plants-signal-danger-and-fortify-neighbors-against-hungry-insects/

https://phys.org/news/2023-10-real-time-visualization-plant-plant-communications-airborne.html

https://ucanr.edu/blogs/blogcore/postdetail.cfm?postnum=18427

Benefits of Snow in Your Garden by Jeffrey Blake

2024-02-28T01:30:00.001-07:00

Photo: Artem Meletov

Snow indirectly contributes to nitrogen input in the soil through a process called atmospheric nitrogen deposition. Nitrogen is a crucial nutrient for plant growth, and it can be added to the soil in various forms, including through precipitation like snow.

Here's how the process generally works:

Atmospheric Nitrogen: The Earth's atmosphere is composed mostly of nitrogen gas (N2), which makes up about 78% of the air we breathe.
Nitrogen Fixation: Nitrogen gas is relatively inert and cannot be directly utilized by most plants. However, certain bacteria and other microorganisms have the ability to convert atmospheric nitrogen into a form that plants can absorb. This process is called nitrogen fixation.
Nitrogen in Precipitation: As snow forms in the atmosphere, it can capture nitrogen compounds from the air. This can include both nitrogen gas and nitrogen compounds that result from human activities (such as nitrogen oxides from combustion processes).
Snowfall and Nitrogen Deposition: When snow falls to the ground, it brings with it the captured nitrogen compounds. As the snow melts, these compounds are released into the soil.
Soil Incorporation: The nitrogen compounds from the snowmelt are then incorporated into the soil, where they become available for plant uptake. This process contributes to the nutrient cycling in ecosystems.

It's important to note that while natural processes like atmospheric nitrogen deposition play a role, human activities (such as the burning of fossil fuels and industrial processes) can significantly increase nitrogen deposition, leading to both positive and negative effects on ecosystems. Excessive nitrogen deposition can lead to nutrient imbalances, soil acidification, and other environmental issues.

Sources:

University Corporation for Atmospheric Research
Science Direct
Redmond Agriculture

Is Plastic Mulch worth my time and money? By JoAnnette Charles

2024-02-22T01:00:00.003-07:00

photo: joegardener®

I thought that plastic mulch would make my gardening easier, and it can… but only if you do it correctly. It is typically used to increase the temperature of the soil to improve the yield of warm weather plants like tomatoes and peppers. I wanted the additional benefit of fewer weeds and less wind erosion since my community garden is in a very windy location. Next year, I will use it again, but I do things very differently based on what I’ve learned.

First, let’s talk about why it is beneficial. The plastic traps solar heat and warms the soil. This can both extend the growing season and increase the fruit yield. In fact, black plastic can increase the soil temperature 5°F at a depth of 2 inches.

IPM University of Missouri

Although there are several colors for plastic mulch, black and red are the most common. Researchers have shown that tomatoes, basil, strawberries, and eggplant all perform better with red compared to black plastic. You can increase your tomato yield as much as 20%. It also reduces tomato blight since there is less water splash back.

I did not see any improvement in my tomatoes because I did not install my plastic properly. The heat transfer is not effective unless you have direct contact between the soil and plastic. To get the best contact, prep your soil and install your irrigation. Your irrigation needs to lay flush with top of the soil. You should warm up the plastic by bringing it into your home or laying it in the sun. This will help its flexibility and improve your contact with the soil. Ideally, you should bury the edges of the plastic a couple inches deep to prevent any movement from wind. Alternatively, you can stake it down. I will be prepping my garden in early spring so that the plastic has several weeks to start warming up the soil before I plant.

When you cut holes to insert your plants, it is very important that the plastic doesn’t touch the plants as it can easily burn them. The best way to fertilize is liquid fertilizer through your irrigation system. July is a good time to remove your plastic mulch as the soil temperatures can get too high.

Honestly, I found the plastic mulch to be a lot of work, and most gardeners only get an average of 12% increased yield from certain plants. I only recommend it if you get other benefits such as reduced blight, less wind erosion, weed management, or you have limited space and you want to maximize the few plants you can grow.

For more information:

CSU Plant Talk 1850 When to Mulch Vegetables

Mulch: Using Colored Plastic Mulches in the VegetableGarden

Use of Plastic Mulch and Row Covers in Vegetable Production

Plastic Mulch Color and Soil Temperature

Are Gnats in Your Home Making You Nuts? By Amy Norwood

2024-02-21T09:00:00.001-07:00

Adult fungus gnat showing the distinctive, curved “Y” fork in the wings.
Photo Credit: B. Schoenmakers, via Wikipedia.

Do you have tiny flying insects in your home? These insects don’t pose a health risk to people or animals, but they are very annoying. They can be controlled if you know which tiny flying insect you have.

Fungus Gnats

Photo: Amy Norwood
This is an emerging amaryllis bulb with a fungus gnat problem.
See the tiny black dots on the yellow paper?
Those are gnats trapped on the sticky whitefly trap I’m using to control the problem.

If you have houseplants, your tiny flying insects are very likely fungus gnats. Fungus gnats live in moist houseplant soil. If a houseplant is pretty well infested with fungus gnats, you can look at the soil and see them. They’ll be crawling on the soil surface and the rim of the pot and flying around the plant. If you’re unsure about which plant or plants are the source of the gnats, you can place slices of potato on the soil. The potato will attract the gnats, and then you’ll know which plants you need to treat.

Fungus gnats thrive in moist soil, so the first line of attack is letting the soil dry out. Dial back on your plant watering and make sure plant trays and saucers under the pots stay dry.

Chemical controls for fungus gnats can be applied to the soil. However, if you have children or pets in your home you might not feel comfortable using these products. A child and pet-safe solution is sticky whitefly traps. These are extremely sticky pieces of bright yellow paper that are hung in the plant or placed in a small holder that goes in the soil. The yellow color attracts the gnats and they stick to the paper. Sticky whitefly traps are inexpensive and can be purchased online or in garden stores. Don’t bother trying to use yellow sticky notes as a substitute (which I have tried). They aren’t sticky enough to trap gnats.

Other Gnats and Flies

My impulse is to overwater my houseplants, and as a result I battle fungus gnats year-round. So, when I see a tiny flying insect in my home, I automatically assume it’s a fungus gnat. But, I’ve been wrong a few times and have had to do a better insect ID to effectively control the bugs.

Photo: Amy Norwood
This is an inexpensive water meter. I use it to help me decide when my houseplants need water. Overwatering can breed fungus gnats. This meter shows that the soil is moist and that I don’t need to water though the soil surface looks dry.

One time I kept finding dead gnats around my bathroom sinks. These, I learned eventually, were moth flies. Moth flies feed on bacteria that accumulate in constantly damp plumbing pipes, so they’ll be found around sinks and showers. Moth flies don’t live in houseplant soil, so fungus gnat remedies won’t work on them. What will work is using a brush to scrub the plumbing pipe connected to the drain where you find the bugs. Scrubbing the pipe is helpful because it removes the bacteria the moth flies need to survive. Also, drain cleaners that foam and cling to the walls of the piping are effective in clearing out the bacteria. Blasting hot water into the drain won’t solve the problem.

If you have tiny flying insects that you can’t readily tie to a source like a houseplant or drain, think of vinegar flies. Vinegar flies live in food and beverage environments. Overripe produce is a typical home for vinegar flies. They’ll also take hold in small amounts of beer and wine in the bottom of bottles and cans in your recycling bin. Finding the source of vinegar flies is the key to controlling them. Throw out the source and you’ll be rid of the flies. One summer my whole house was full of tiny flies and they were making me nuts. Finally, I found the source, a box of onions I had stowed in the furnace room in my basement and forgotten about. Bye-bye onions, bye-bye flies, problem solved!

For more help with gnats and flies in your home, check out the following CSU Extension Fact Sheets:

Flies in the Home, Fact Sheet 5.502

Fungus Gnats as Houseplant and Indoor Pests, Fact Sheet 5.584

A mysterious water drop (or two) on houseplants?! by Vicky Spelman

2024-01-17T01:00:00.017-07:00

Dieffenbachia

I found a drop of water on the tip of one of my dieffenbachia's leaves. What? I checked to see if there was a ceiling leak. Thank goodness no, but... then what caused this water drop?

If you find some water drops on some of your houseplant’s leaves, it is usually caused by one of three things:

1. Transpiration: It is the process of water moving through the plant and its evaporation from the leaves. Leaves drip when they have as much moisture as they can hold. This is the main cause of water drops on plants. If this is becoming a common occurrence, consider reducing water to the plant.

The Spruce / Fiona Campbell

2. Dew: Condensation can occur when the air around the plant cools down. It is more likely to happen in the warmer months with open windows causing temperature differences in the air and the plant. As the temperature drops, water vapor in the air turns into liquid and forms dew on the plants. Most of the time it is reabsorbed by the plants’ leaves. More commonly seen on outside plants in the early morning.

iStock / Marina Krisenko

Pinterest / Morning Dew on Grass

3. Guttation: Pressure relief for plants – tiny water drops spaced uniformly around margins of a leaf. Unlike transpiration, however, guttation results in multiple water droplets appearing across the plant. With nighttime conditions of cool air, high humidity and warm soil, root pressure can move water to the leaves.

University of Missouri / droplets on a tomato leaf in a greenhouse

Guttation / Noah Elhardt, Public domain

The amount of water a houseplant needs could change throughout the year. Check your plants' health and your watering habits.

Sources:

University of Missouri – Integrated Pest Management https://ipm.missouri.edu/MEG/2009/6/Guttation-A-Pressure-Relief-for-Plants/index.cfm

The Spruce https://www.thespruce.com/why-do-houseplant-leaves-drip-1402999

Homes & Gardens https://www.homesandgardens.com/gardens/why-are-there-drops-of-water-on-my-plants

What is Winter Sowing? By Cynthia Baldwin

2024-01-10T01:00:00.001-07:00

Winter sowing is a method of starting seeds outdoors in winter. This method takes advantage of natural temperatures. You will not need to refrigerate seeds to satisfy cold stratification. Winter sowing involves sowing seeds in an enclosed container outside during winter, allowing them to germinate in spring.

What are the advantages? It’s simple to do. It’s effective. You don’t have to start seeds indoors or invest in a lot of expensive equipment. It allows someone who doesn’t have the room, nor the space available indoors to start seeds. Winter sown seedlings are hardier. There is no need to harden off the seedlings as they are acclimated to outdoor conditions. They are ready to plant whenever the outside temperatures have sufficiently warmed and they are the right size (2-3 inches or two sets of real leaves).

What can you winter sow? Native plants, perennials, herbs, annuals, vegetables. (start after the winter solstice, Dec. 21) first because they require 4-6 weeks of cold stratification.

When to winter sow? After the Winter Solstice (December. 21st), January to February is good. Native plants and perennials will not need cold stratification. Annuals and vegetables can be sowed through April. Frost-tolerant flowers and vegetables such as petunias, cosmos, kale, broccoli, spinach, and brussels sprouts successfully withstand the cold temperatures of early winter. Frost-sensitive species such as zinnias, tomatoes, and squash need to wait until the warmer temperatures of March or April before sowing using this method.

How do you winter sow? To begin, create your miniature greenhouse from recycled plastic containers. Milk jugs that allow light to penetrate work well. Experiment with the recyclable containers you have on hand. As long as it holds 3-4" of potting soil, with a little headroom for the seedlings to sprout and grow, you're good to go!

Graphic courtesy of Skycrest Studios

Because the containers will collect snow and rain, add drainage holes in your mini-greenhouse. With a drill or utility knife, cut several holes into the bottom of the container. Cut around the milk jug below the bottom of the handle, without cutting the top of the container all the way off. Leave about a half an inch intact just below the handle. This section acts as a hinge to hold the container together.

Graphic courtesy of Skycrest Studios

Next, fill the bottom of the miniature greenhouse. Moisten the soil and allow it to drain. The soil should have a moisture level like a damp sponge. Light and fluffy soil that drains well works best.

The container is now ready for seeds. Small seeds can be left on top of the soil, however larger seeds require more attention. Follow the instructions on the seed packet for planting depths of larger seeds. Make sure there is good contact between the seed and the soil. Replace the lid and secure with duct tape. Throw away the cap. Label the container with the date and the type of seed planted. Your small greenhouse container is ready to go outdoors. While the mini-greenhouses should receive sunlight and have exposure to rain and snow, they should be placed in an area that is safe from strong winds, people and animals.

The temperature variation prepares the seeds for germination at the proper time. It may be necessary to add a little water during warm weather spells in the winter. One easy way to check if the container needs water is to pick them up and see if the soil is wet or heavy; if not add a little water. When the days begin to warm, seedlings will emerge. After emergence, open the container on sunny days, but close it at dusk to protect the seedlings from cold night temperatures. The seedlings naturally harden off and can be transplanted when soil temperatures reach proper levels. Cut flaps along the side of the miniature greenhouse to slide seedlings out. Divide the clump into pieces and plant as you would a store variety.

Sources/Resources:

My First Attempt at Winter Sowing by Dawn Savage

Winter Sowing Seeds, a Youth Gardening Activity

All the Dirt on Winter Sowing

Starting Seeds in Winter

Christmas Tree Recycling 2024 by Vicky Spelman

2023-12-29T01:00:00.011-07:00

Many municipalities across Colorado have free tree recycling or composting programs for holiday pines that have served their festive purpose.

What happens to the trees? In most cases, the trees are chipped and made into a mulch which is usually made available free to city or county residents.

Trees must be stripped of all ornaments, hardware, strings of lights and tinsel.

Here are five in Jefferson County that have Christmas tree recycling programs.

Arvada:

December 26 - through mid-January

No restricted days or times

Lake Arbor Lake park - 6400 Pomona Drive

Stenger Fields - at West 58th Avenue and Oak Street

The mulch will be available free of charge at all drop-site locations.

For more information, contact Parks Department at 720-898-7410

Evergreen:

Recycle your holiday tree and block Styrofoam

- Jan 6, 2024, 1-4pm at vacant lot (old McDonalds) across from King Soopers, 1246 Bergen Parkway, Evergreen
- Jan 6,2024 9am-3pm at vacant lot (1246 Bergen Parkway) and Evergreen Lutheran Church (5980 Hwy 73)
- Jan 13, 2024, 9am-3pm at vacant lot (1246 Bergen Parkway) and Evergreen Lutheran Church (5980 Hwy 73)

Trees are mulched by LamTreeServices for community use.

Phone: (720) 536-0069

Email: info@sustainevergreen.org

Golden:

Christmas Tree recycling is provided by the City of Golden Forestry Division.
December 27 – January 27

West of the intersection at Highway 93 & Golden Gate Canyon Road. Please place your tree near the sign posted for tree recycling. The trees will be turned into mulch, which will eventually be available for free at the public pickup site on 11th Street, just west of the Clear Creek History Park.

For further details, contact the City of Golden Forestry office at 303-384-8141.

Lakewood:

Tree recycling is free for Lakewood residents. Mulch is available on request.
December 26 – January 7
Hours: 7am – 3pm
Lakewood's Greenhouse - between Estes and old Kipling streets, 9556 W. Yale Ave.
For more information, please call 720-963-5240.

Wheat Ridge:
Dec. 27th through the end of January for Wheat Ridge Residents.

Hours: 7:00am - 6:00pm

Tree drop off locations

* East Parking Lot of Anderson Park - 4355 Field St.
* East Parking Lot of Panorama Park by the Ballfields - W 33rd Ave & Fenton St.
Trees are chipped into mulch that is recycled for use in planter beds and around trees in City parks. The Program is open to City of Wheat Ridge Residents only. No trailers or dump trucks. Drop off only during park hours.

For additional cities and counties in Colorado:

RecycleChristmasTrees#1

RecycleChristmasTrees#2

Courtesy: KINGA KRZEMINSKA//GETTY IMAGES

To recycle your old Christmas and Holiday Lights:

Lakewood wants you to recycle your old, broken or unwanted holiday lights by dropping them off at the 1068 Quail St. Recycling Center. Collection will be available through Sunday, January 21st between 7am and 5pm.

Hardware stores: Retailers like The Home Depot, Lowe's, Ace Hardware and True Value will accept your Christmas lights for recycling. Check with your local hardware store for specifics, including drop-off locations.

Tips for Care of Cut Christmas Trees by Vicky Spelman

2023-12-10T01:00:00.001-07:00

Christmas Tree Farm Photo credit: Penn State Extension Master Gardener Program

Is your Christmas tree up? Did you get a fresh one? Whether you cut your own tree or bought a pre-cut tree, here are some tips to make the most of your fresh tree.

“Most commercially available Christmas trees are harvested the first couple weeks of November. If you enjoy decorating your home as early as Thanksgiving or early December, you are challenging a tree to maintain its freshness in the warm, dry environment of our heated homes. To optimize the length of time a tree looks its best, seek out the freshest tree, choose tree varieties which can take indoor conditions, and optimize the environment once the tree is brought into your home”. ~PennState Extension

1. When deciding where to place the tree in your home, consider where your heat sources are: avoid the fireplace, furnace vents and direct sunlight.

2. Maintaining a high level of moisture in the tree is the single most important factor for reducing needle loss.

3. Make sure your tree stand has an adequate water-holding capacity. It should have a water basin that provides 1 quart of water per inch of stem diameter – it should probably hold at least a gallon of water. You will have to replenish the water daily, particularly during the first week or so.

4. If not decorating right away, place its trunk in water and store in a cool, shaded and protected area such as an unheated garage.

5. If the tree was cut within the past 12 hours, it is not be necessary to recut the trunk prior to displaying indoors. If it was cut down before that, the trunk should be recut to improve water uptake.

6. Water temperate will not affect the water uptake.

Courtesy Non-political Beyond the Far Side group

Avoid:
1. Applying anti-transpirants to the tree - it will not have a significant effect on the moisture rate loss.

2. Adding water-holding gels to the water stand - it is not beneficial.

3. Using additives, such as floral preservatives, commercial tree preservatives, sugar, aspirin, etc. in the water. Clean water is all that is necessary to maintain freshness.

4. Avoid spraying trees with flame retardants.

The newer LED Christmas lights generate less heat than the older types of lights. And… always turn off the lights when the tree is unattended.

Sources and additional information: PennStateExtension, IowaStateUniversity

Ready to plant an Amaryllis bulb for the Holidays? by Vicky Spelman

2023-12-07T01:00:00.003-07:00

Courtesy: University of Minnesota Extension

Have you tried growing an amaryllis bulb for the Holidays? Whether it’s your first bulb or your tenth, there is always lots of anticipation waiting for the beefy bulb to produce a flower - easy and fun to do.

Amaryllis flowers range in size from around 6-10 inches and can be either single or double in form. The size and condition of the bulbs will influence their performance. There are many colors to choose from: red, pink, orange, salmon to name a few.

Courtesy: University of Minnesota Extension

Selecting the bulb:

1. Pick the largest bulb available for the variety you choose. The larger the bulb, the more flowers it will have.
2. Make sure they are firm and dry with no signs of decay or injury. It is common to see new growth emerging from the bulb.

Selecting your container:

1. Amaryllis grow best in narrow containers and can be plastic, metal, ceramic or terracotta. It should be approximately 1 inch wider than the widest part of the bulb and twice as tall for good root development. Just make sure your container has at least one hole in the bottom for good drainage.
2. Fill your container about half full with new potting soil – high inorganic matter, such as peat moss. Place your bulb so the roots rest on the potting soil. Add more soil, tapping it down around the bulb. The bulb should be planted so that 1/3 to ½ of the bulb is above the soil surface.
3. Thoroughly water your bulb so the soil is moist and allow it to drain completely.

Above: University of Minnesota Extension

Caring for your bulb:
1. Place your bulb container and saucer in a sunny window until the flower buds have begun to open, then move it out of direct sunlight to prolong the life of the flowers.
2. Water when the top 2 inches or so feels dry and allow it to drain completely. Not allowing it to drain can lead to bulb and root rot, also it may attract pests.
3. Once you see new growth emerging, use a houseplant fertilizer at half strength to promote blooming. Fertilizing an amaryllis bulb that has no leaves can kill the roots.

Ready to get and plant your bulbs?

Resources used (also has information if you want to save your bulbs for next year).

CSU-Planttalk-Amaryllis

University of Minnesota Extension-Amaryllis

Clemson Cooperative Extension-Amaryllis

Forcing Paperwhites to Bloom by Vicky Spelman

2023-12-05T01:00:00.016-07:00

Photo: FreeImages

Blooming houseplants are the best during the Winter months! Gardeners and bulb lovers like to force bulbs to bloom during the winter holidays to brighten the days.

Paperwhite narcissus bulbs are one of the easiest to force for cut flowers or ornamental displays in the home during the Holidays as they don’t need a chilling period to bloom, unlike tulips and hyacinths.

Photo: Pinterest

You can force them to bloom in either soil or water:

• fill a bulb pan (or other container) with about one to two inches of potting soil, and then position the bulbs in the soil so they are nearly touching each other with pointed end up. Add enough potting soil so that only the top half of the bulbs remain exposed, then water well.

• they can also be forced in a shallow container with pebbles and water. Place the bulbs on the gravel/stones, with additional gravel/stones around the bulbs (leaving tips exposed) to keep them in place. Add water until it touches the bottom of the bulbs and maintain this water level throughout the forcing period.

To prolong their bloom period, move them from direct sunlight when the plants begin to flower.

Study from Cornell College of Agriculture and Life Sciences: You can use alcohol to reduce growth of paperwhite narcissus to keep them from getting leggy. (Paperwhites often require staking as plants may reach a height of 18 to 20 inches.)

Photo: Cornell University

The Flower Bulb Research Program at Cornell University conducted experiments using various kinds of alcohol and discovered that plant height will be reduced by one third thus stopping the “flop over”. Alcohol interferes with water uptake and will reduce stem height.

Here are their recommendations:

• Start your bulbs in plain water. When roots have formed and the green shoot is 1 to 2 inches long, pour off the water and replace with a solution of 4 to 6% alcohol. Example: to get a 5% solution from a 40% distilled spirit (gin vodka, etc.) you add 1 part of the booze to 7 parts water.

• You can also use Rubbing Alcohol (isopropyl alcohol) – it is usually 70% alcohol, so a solution of 1 part to 10 parts water.

• Simply use this solution to continue to water your bulbs.

• Do not use beer or wine, as the sugars in them will cause major problems with the plants.

Can paperwhite bulbs be saved or used again after they have been forced to bloom inside?

• No, they should be discarded - they cannot successfully be forced to bloom again and are not winter hardy.

Enjoy a glass of wine while you give the paperwhite bulbs a drink of booze and enjoy your beautiful shorter flowers.

CSU: Plant Talk 1322 – paperwhite-narcissus

Cornell University: Pickling Your Paperwhites