tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-84983675310549942512024-03-14T01:30:32.575-06:00JeffCo Master Gardeners Colorado Master Gardener Volunteers gardening and blogging in Jefferson County Colorado. We work at the CSU Extension Office at the Jefferson County Fairgrounds. Call 303-271-6620 or e-mail your questions to mastergardener@jeffco.usNancy Shepardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16795094471545524992noreply@blogger.comBlogger1362125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8498367531054994251.post-67425645896236376762024-03-14T01:30:00.001-06:002024-03-14T01:30:00.126-06:00How Plants Communicate When in Danger by Nancy Shepard<p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDk9GukS3WBpatfvAFb0v7lyVja9RZ_Pl9Lu6nBK2eg-RdN6kQ1x2o76yW8QK6hhTBpJQiqecALyvgpEKmU-dWYmvvlKCe2H7HUuMxBHzJm4PcGAlUKd1upnumIT4QhKrsE2F79KjyWA7n4cgVxoXv1sFTj1kyD1k0CoHi9ZcDd2VAWGMtCDGspNPnnQ-B/s687/Plants%20communicating.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="313" data-original-width="687" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDk9GukS3WBpatfvAFb0v7lyVja9RZ_Pl9Lu6nBK2eg-RdN6kQ1x2o76yW8QK6hhTBpJQiqecALyvgpEKmU-dWYmvvlKCe2H7HUuMxBHzJm4PcGAlUKd1upnumIT4QhKrsE2F79KjyWA7n4cgVxoXv1sFTj1kyD1k0CoHi9ZcDd2VAWGMtCDGspNPnnQ-B/w438-h200/Plants%20communicating.jpg" width="438" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: x-small;"><i>Graphic: Phys Org</i></span></span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">I</span><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">’ve always loved the smell of a freshly mowed lawn. Little
did I know that this smell is produced by the blades of grass signaling
distress from being injured. Research has shown that plants emit volatile
organic compounds (VOCs) into the atmosphere upon mechanical damages or insect
attacks. Undamaged neighboring plants sense the released VOCs as danger cues to
activate defense responses against upcoming threats.</span></p><p><span></span></p><a name='more'></a><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">The idea of “talking” trees started to take root in the
1980s. Two ecologists placed hundreds of caterpillars and webworms on the
branches of willow and alder trees to observe how the trees would respond. They
found the attacked trees began producing chemicals that made their leaves
unappetizing and indigestible to deter insects.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Then, starting around 2018, scientists discovered that
plants can communicate with each other by the use of chemical compounds. Here
is how it works: If one of the network plants is attacked by caterpillars, the
other members of the network are warned via an internal signal to upgrade their
chemical and mechanical resistance—making their leaves hard to chew on and less
desirable. This system works to spread the information among the plants and to
ward off caterpillars.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">See this for a fascinating video that shows plant leaves
reacting to a caterpillar eating neighboring leaves. <a href="https://www.washingtonpost.com/climate-environment/2023/10/21/plants-talk-warning-danger/">https://www.washingtonpost.com/climate-environment/2023/10/21/plants-talk-warning-danger/</a></span>
<o:p></o:p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6LNy_vaaOS1Jvd9XJvzCVsOud8DVZkONFBYl01ocFUOxMvecQjmPRxB0nGYilI4aGCzc34m6VmZKw9pRuz_6pwWOknLTeGgRV7TN8WnVRj15ESlFkACzm6RR2hjdAw9ipdH63mBSbHoRA0CGh49R9d9vmbwn-abFp0t8DZ_6o2ENYMR5iHPXTB4t4vjpR/s794/Plants%20communicating%202.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="561" data-original-width="794" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6LNy_vaaOS1Jvd9XJvzCVsOud8DVZkONFBYl01ocFUOxMvecQjmPRxB0nGYilI4aGCzc34m6VmZKw9pRuz_6pwWOknLTeGgRV7TN8WnVRj15ESlFkACzm6RR2hjdAw9ipdH63mBSbHoRA0CGh49R9d9vmbwn-abFp0t8DZ_6o2ENYMR5iHPXTB4t4vjpR/s320/Plants%20communicating%202.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: x-small;"><i>(Masatsugu Toyota/Toyota et al, Science 2018)</i></span><o:p></o:p></p></td></tr></tbody></table><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">“This is an early warning system, very much like in military
defense, but then more effective: each member of the network can receive the
external signal of impending herbivore danger and transmit it to the other
members of the network,” said researcher Josef Stuefer from the Radboud
University in the Netherlands. The attacked leaf is lost. However, the
remaining leaves are protected against predators.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">This discovery that injured plants emit certain chemical
compounds, which can infiltrate a healthy plant’s inner tissues and activate
defenses from within its cells, could be used soon to protect valuable crops in
agriculture. A better understanding of this mechanism could allow scientists
and farmers to help fortify plants against insect attacks or drought long
before they happen.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Sources:<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="MsoHyperlink"><a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3405699/">https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3405699/</a></span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="MsoHyperlink"><a href="https://www.washingtonpost.com/climate-environment/2023/10/21/plants-talk-warning-danger/">https://www.washingtonpost.com/climate-environment/2023/10/21/plants-talk-warning-danger/</a></span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="MsoHyperlink"><a href="https://www.livescience.com/1909-plants-communicate-warn-danger.html">https://www.livescience.com/1909-plants-communicate-warn-danger.html</a></span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="MsoHyperlink"><a href="https://www.esalq.usp.br/lepse/imgs/conteudo_thumb/Rick-Karban-has-researched-plant-communication-in-sagebrush.pdf">https://www.esalq.usp.br/lepse/imgs/conteudo_thumb/Rick-Karban-has-researched-plant-communication-in-sagebrush.pdf</a></span>
<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="MsoHyperlink"><a href="https://www.advancedsciencenews.com/how-plants-signal-danger-and-fortify-neighbors-against-hungry-insects/">https://www.advancedsciencenews.com/how-plants-signal-danger-and-fortify-neighbors-against-hungry-insects/</a></span>
<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="MsoHyperlink"><a href="https://phys.org/news/2023-10-real-time-visualization-plant-plant-communications-airborne.html">https://phys.org/news/2023-10-real-time-visualization-plant-plant-communications-airborne.html</a></span>
<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="MsoHyperlink"><a href="https://ucanr.edu/blogs/blogcore/postdetail.cfm?postnum=18427">https://ucanr.edu/blogs/blogcore/postdetail.cfm?postnum=18427</a></span>
<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"> </span></o:p></p><br /><p></p>Nancy Shepardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16795094471545524992noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8498367531054994251.post-18200675625209237152024-02-28T01:30:00.001-07:002024-02-28T01:30:00.143-07:00Benefits of Snow in Your Garden by Jeffrey Blake<p> </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNxuB4lHEuAadr1S76uq41rJ5CZVyUGHnhBBQc3-GJYIX5Trk-QpUm0vCL0mAfuGrFdB0rz0dNAaNP_L8_6PT8D7kGSbvIdvFO8NMeiFIIgi3K0tG0E6Jo2PIKkhuRo3iDStu4n_R-YMzR5ISUHAVKrre1NIdu2XsdgeDYZE8y3ypbM3KvLYHxehr8BxMy/s1919/pexels-valeria-boltneva-16115161.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1919" data-original-width="1280" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNxuB4lHEuAadr1S76uq41rJ5CZVyUGHnhBBQc3-GJYIX5Trk-QpUm0vCL0mAfuGrFdB0rz0dNAaNP_L8_6PT8D7kGSbvIdvFO8NMeiFIIgi3K0tG0E6Jo2PIKkhuRo3iDStu4n_R-YMzR5ISUHAVKrre1NIdu2XsdgeDYZE8y3ypbM3KvLYHxehr8BxMy/s320/pexels-valeria-boltneva-16115161.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: x-small;"><i>Photo: Artem Meletov</i></span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p class="p1" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="s1">Snow indirectly contributes
to nitrogen input in the soil through a process called atmospheric nitrogen
deposition. Nitrogen is a crucial nutrient for plant growth, and it can be
added to the soil in various forms, including through precipitation like snow.</span><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="p1" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="s1"><br /></span></span><p></p>
<p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in; text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="s1">Here's
how the process generally works:</span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="s1">Atmospheric Nitrogen: The
Earth's atmosphere is composed mostly of nitrogen gas (N2), which makes up
about 78% of the air we breathe.</span></span></li><li><span class="s1" style="font-family: arial;">Nitrogen Fixation: Nitrogen gas
is relatively inert and cannot be directly utilized by most plants.
However, certain bacteria and other microorganisms have the ability to
convert atmospheric nitrogen into a form that plants can absorb. This
process is called nitrogen fixation.</span></li><li><span class="s1" style="font-family: arial;">Nitrogen in Precipitation: As
snow forms in the atmosphere, it can capture nitrogen compounds from the
air. This can include both nitrogen gas and nitrogen compounds that result
from human activities (such as nitrogen oxides from combustion processes).</span></li><li><span class="s1" style="font-family: arial;">Snowfall and Nitrogen
Deposition: When snow falls to the ground, it brings with it the captured
nitrogen compounds. As the snow melts, these compounds are released into
the soil.</span></li><li><span class="s1" style="font-family: arial;">Soil Incorporation: The
nitrogen compounds from the snowmelt are then incorporated into the soil,
where they become available for plant uptake. This process contributes to
the nutrient cycling in ecosystems.</span></li></ul></span><ul style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; margin-top: 0in; text-size-adjust: auto;" type="disc">
</ul>
<p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in; text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">It's
important to note that while natural processes like atmospheric nitrogen
deposition play a role, human activities (such as the burning of fossil fuels
and industrial processes) can significantly increase nitrogen deposition,
leading to both positive and negative effects on ecosystems. Excessive nitrogen
deposition can lead to nutrient imbalances, soil acidification, and other
environmental issues.</span></span><o:p></o:p></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; text-align: left; text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="s1"><span><br /></span></span><span class="s1"><span>Sources:<br /></span></span></span></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="s1"><span><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="s1">University
Corporation for Atmospheric Research</span></span></span></span></span></li><li><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="s1"><span><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="s1">Science Direct</span></span></span></span></span></li><li><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="s1"><span><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="s1">Redmond Agriculture</span></span></span></span></span></li></ul><p></p><p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in; text-size-adjust: auto;"><span class="s1"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"></span></span></p><p class="p1" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;"><span class="s1"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><span class="s1"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">
<p class="p1" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-stretch: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;"><o:p></o:p></p>
<br /></span></span><p></p>Nancy Shepardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16795094471545524992noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8498367531054994251.post-27944922802455155962024-02-22T01:00:00.003-07:002024-02-22T01:00:00.137-07:00Is Plastic Mulch worth my time and money? By JoAnnette Charles<div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-size: large; font-weight: bold; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-rx-SoxE42FVsvD90mKiajoTv7JsEzprjk9EMCQkl0whMuMz5Avpe9wxzyNS4DdNzEyR19P2jlotazu6o6_UTTgjvFWDtqK1PLp2dzkBkyd-KA7K_x1gxICmb7VQjqVJGIyiLoalMXYXqaVXlrsS-qhWcH9AfGT97jGrBIfOy3Wf21grlm6wzk9_o0N8/s708/red-mulch-under-tomatoes-708x466.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="466" data-original-width="708" height="264" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-rx-SoxE42FVsvD90mKiajoTv7JsEzprjk9EMCQkl0whMuMz5Avpe9wxzyNS4DdNzEyR19P2jlotazu6o6_UTTgjvFWDtqK1PLp2dzkBkyd-KA7K_x1gxICmb7VQjqVJGIyiLoalMXYXqaVXlrsS-qhWcH9AfGT97jGrBIfOy3Wf21grlm6wzk9_o0N8/w400-h264/red-mulch-under-tomatoes-708x466.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #37280e; font-size: small; font-style: italic; font-weight: normal;"><a href="https://joegardener.com/podcast/036-gardening-myths-busted-pt-3-with-linda-chalker-scott/">photo: joegardener</a></span><span style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: transparent; box-sizing: border-box; color: #37280e; font-size: small; font-style: italic; line-height: 0; outline: 0px; position: relative; top: -0.5em; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><a href="https://joegardener.com/podcast/036-gardening-myths-busted-pt-3-with-linda-chalker-scott/">®</a></span><br /><br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i><span style="font-family: arial;"> </span></i></span></div></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: medium;">I thought that plastic mulch would make my gardening easier, and it can… but only if you do it correctly. It is typically used to increase the temperature of the soil to improve the yield of warm weather plants like tomatoes and peppers. I wanted the additional benefit of fewer weeds and less wind erosion since my community garden is in a very windy location. Next year, I will use it again, but I do things very differently based on what I’ve learned.<a name='more'></a></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">First, let’s talk about why it is beneficial. The plastic traps solar heat and warms the soil. This can both extend the growing season and increase the fruit yield. In fact, black plastic can increase the soil temperature 5°F at a depth of 2 inches.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcQjA0lgMriANDTD-DjtzJHbKCdH5hpWt1yaBh3fHE9TV3oNs34nIw_It0TRJ6PhzTzJ47n3eh5hmkCKsT8FKQ-L8aXW7_vPhXQQhyVpQ4GKIME6yaAhao9ITf8YRGOdDqj39EzIZuZ8z0EhyB1AeXUaiTjkrdOUuRNz8zCjv9i8784BYJ4pGX7g7sm80/s700/figure3.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="474" data-original-width="700" height="271" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcQjA0lgMriANDTD-DjtzJHbKCdH5hpWt1yaBh3fHE9TV3oNs34nIw_It0TRJ6PhzTzJ47n3eh5hmkCKsT8FKQ-L8aXW7_vPhXQQhyVpQ4GKIME6yaAhao9ITf8YRGOdDqj39EzIZuZ8z0EhyB1AeXUaiTjkrdOUuRNz8zCjv9i8784BYJ4pGX7g7sm80/w400-h271/figure3.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://ipm.missouri.edu/MPG/2022/5/plasticMulch-RA/">IPM University of Missouri</a></td></tr></tbody></table></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Although there are several colors for plastic mulch, black and red are the most common. Researchers have shown that tomatoes, basil, strawberries, and eggplant all perform better with red compared to black plastic. You can increase your tomato yield as much as 20%. It also reduces tomato blight since there is less water splash back.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">I did not see any improvement in my tomatoes because I did not install my plastic properly. The heat transfer is not effective unless you have direct contact between the soil and plastic. To get the best contact, prep your soil and install your irrigation. Your irrigation needs to lay flush with top of the soil. You should warm up the plastic by bringing it into your home or laying it in the sun. This will help its flexibility and improve your contact with the soil. Ideally, you should bury the edges of the plastic a couple inches deep to prevent any movement from wind. Alternatively, you can stake it down. I will be prepping my garden in early spring so that the plastic has several weeks to start warming up the soil before I plant.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">When you cut holes to insert your plants, it is very important that the plastic doesn’t touch the plants as it can easily burn them. The best way to fertilize is liquid fertilizer through your irrigation system. July is a good time to remove your plastic mulch as the soil temperatures can get too high.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Honestly, I found the plastic mulch to be a lot of work, and most gardeners only get an average of 12% increased yield from certain plants. I only recommend it if you get other benefits such as reduced blight, less wind erosion, weed management, or you have limited space and you want to maximize the few plants you can grow.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">For more information:</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><a href="https://planttalk.colostate.edu/topics/vegetables/1850-mulch-vegetables/"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">CSU Plant Talk 1850 When to Mulch Vegetables</span></a></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><a href="https://ag.umass.edu/sites/ag.umass.edu/files/fact-sheets/pdf/mulch_colored_plastic.pdf"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Mulch: Using Colored Plastic Mulches in the VegetableGarden </span></a></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><a href="https://extension.okstate.edu/fact-sheets/use-of-plastic-mulch-and-row-covers-in-vegetable-production.html" style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Use of Plastic Mulch and Row Covers in Vegetable Production</span></a></div><div><span style="background-color: white; color: #163233; font-family: arial; letter-spacing: -0.02em; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; color: #163233; font-family: arial; letter-spacing: -0.02em; text-align: center;"><a href="https://ipm.missouri.edu/MPG/2022/5/plasticMulch-RA/"><span style="font-size: medium;">Plastic Mulch Color and Soil Temperature</span></a></span></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><br /></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8498367531054994251.post-21764054959983577932024-02-21T09:00:00.001-07:002024-02-21T09:21:56.564-07:00Are Gnats in Your Home Making You Nuts? By Amy Norwood<p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-family: arial; font-size: large; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKdr9LoOnWEu-KNDvXsNnIsOH5AxjHwcvrs7sFPSW6T0SRX0Qh5p_u8cK3drSWMdXxfwSpP-Ol8xaBIMiZ5lHzcpTRY7VWzHCdJ-Iq4tejoNnXL9uiC7EnRxJhujI1b-fK3JIrNGWFGFg/s1298/Fungus-Gnat-Photo.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1298" data-original-width="1036" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKdr9LoOnWEu-KNDvXsNnIsOH5AxjHwcvrs7sFPSW6T0SRX0Qh5p_u8cK3drSWMdXxfwSpP-Ol8xaBIMiZ5lHzcpTRY7VWzHCdJ-Iq4tejoNnXL9uiC7EnRxJhujI1b-fK3JIrNGWFGFg/s320/Fungus-Gnat-Photo.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; font-style: italic; text-align: start;">Adult fungus gnat showing the distinctive, curved “Y” fork in the wings. <br />Photo Credit: B. Schoenmakers, via Wikipedia.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><span style="font-family: arial;">Do you have tiny flying insects in your home? These insects don’t pose a health risk to people or animals, but they are very annoying. They can be controlled if you know which tiny flying insect you have.</span></span><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: large;"></span><p></p><a name='more'></a><p></p><p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Fungus Gnats</span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipEyrFeNLriBO3TOwv8o4NjYNfe1X9jxrrQpfvApZlAETr2VOAFVALqYEutx_zqbc28ByFaRytHPQ92elGskKsZaIUBu90nT0hfa9B6aJ-PV9Bl-TXqHMcCtqBi1ZQrd7FbuJbndUhaR0/s1280/gnats+final.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipEyrFeNLriBO3TOwv8o4NjYNfe1X9jxrrQpfvApZlAETr2VOAFVALqYEutx_zqbc28ByFaRytHPQ92elGskKsZaIUBu90nT0hfa9B6aJ-PV9Bl-TXqHMcCtqBi1ZQrd7FbuJbndUhaR0/w300-h400/gnats+final.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Photo: Amy Norwood<br /><span style="font-size: medium;">This is an emerging amaryllis bulb with a fungus gnat problem. <br />See the tiny black dots on the yellow paper? <br />Those are gnats trapped on the sticky whitefly trap I’m using to control the problem.<br /><br /></span></i></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">If you have houseplants, your tiny flying insects are very likely fungus gnats. Fungus gnats live in moist houseplant soil. If a houseplant is pretty well infested with fungus gnats, you can look at the soil and see them. They’ll be crawling on the soil surface and the rim of the pot and flying around the plant. If you’re unsure about which plant or plants are the source of the gnats, you can place slices of potato on the soil. The potato will attract the gnats, and then you’ll know which plants you need to treat. </span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Fungus gnats thrive in moist soil, so the first line of attack is letting the soil dry out. Dial back on your plant watering and make sure plant trays and saucers under the pots stay dry.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Chemical controls for fungus gnats can be applied to the soil. However, if you have children or pets in your home you might not feel comfortable using these products. A child and pet-safe solution is sticky whitefly traps. These are extremely sticky pieces of bright yellow paper that are hung in the plant or placed in a small holder that goes in the soil. The yellow color attracts the gnats and they stick to the paper. Sticky whitefly traps are inexpensive and can be purchased online or in garden stores. Don’t bother trying to use yellow sticky notes as a substitute (which I have tried). They aren’t sticky enough to trap gnats.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Other Gnats and Flies</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">My impulse is to overwater my houseplants, and as a result I battle fungus gnats year-round. So, when I see a tiny flying insect in my home, I automatically assume it’s a fungus gnat. But, I’ve been wrong a few times and have had to do a better insect ID to effectively control the bugs.</span></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_B-oeimzzmZk-QxMdL7EiBSvkUTdxEKFe1r-DPywOFVxRrl0-RaYwLWLe_eU0mjw93Lra9rHHqxDIn-ZdYK8qkhUentefb9Y4PH9hGn_v0iLjFDpR32zP8QG4CCUJ3DjGBddGtEnXcWg/s1280/thumbnail_IMG_2115.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_B-oeimzzmZk-QxMdL7EiBSvkUTdxEKFe1r-DPywOFVxRrl0-RaYwLWLe_eU0mjw93Lra9rHHqxDIn-ZdYK8qkhUentefb9Y4PH9hGn_v0iLjFDpR32zP8QG4CCUJ3DjGBddGtEnXcWg/w300-h400/thumbnail_IMG_2115.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Photo: Amy Norwood<br /><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">This is an inexpensive water meter. I use it to help me decide when my houseplants need water. Overwatering can breed fungus gnats. This meter shows that the soil is moist and that I don’t need to water though the soil surface looks dry.</span></i></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: large;"><br /></span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">One time I kept finding dead gnats around my bathroom sinks. These, I learned eventually, were moth flies. Moth flies feed on bacteria that accumulate in constantly damp plumbing pipes, so they’ll be found around sinks and showers. Moth flies don’t live in houseplant soil, so fungus gnat remedies won’t work on them. What will work is using a brush to scrub the plumbing pipe connected to the drain where you find the bugs. Scrubbing the pipe is helpful because it removes the bacteria the moth flies need to survive. Also, drain cleaners that foam and cling to the walls of the piping are effective in clearing out the bacteria. Blasting hot water into the drain won’t solve the problem.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">If you have tiny flying insects that you can’t readily tie to a source like a houseplant or drain, think of vinegar flies. Vinegar flies live in food and beverage environments. Overripe produce is a typical home for vinegar flies. They’ll also take hold in small amounts of beer and wine in the bottom of bottles and cans in your recycling bin. Finding the source of vinegar flies is the key to controlling them. Throw out the source and you’ll be rid of the flies. One summer my whole house was full of tiny flies and they were making me nuts. Finally, I found the source, a box of onions I had stowed in the furnace room in my basement and forgotten about. Bye-bye onions, bye-bye flies, problem solved!</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">For more help with gnats and flies in your home, check out the following CSU Extension Fact Sheets:</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><a href="https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/insects/flies-in-the-home-5-502/">Flies in the Home, Fact Sheet 5.502</a></span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><a href="https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/insects/fungus-gnats-as-houseplant-and-indoor-pests-5-584/">Fungus Gnats as Houseplant and Indoor Pests, Fact Sheet 5.584</a></span></p><p><br /></p><div><br /></div>Vicky Spelmanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06805867506977038941noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8498367531054994251.post-9645826753458687452024-01-17T01:00:00.017-07:002024-01-17T01:00:00.132-07:00A mysterious water drop (or two) on houseplants?! by Vicky Spelman<div style="text-align: left;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaqhChUDirTcA_zxxH1lJlUwR34vCjDhEVuFPkZBbn0ne9youBvl1NwyYQttwWF_4D1fszY5zFMpVR-2JsNcNTpdojwwvsXcnZbPvey0z131t2DyhTc67Gbodc20-gDXiDU2vrUTRnJXm8IWeiyaE8kdB8BqeokBF_dI4fGFSU4sHLs7ArD4iPxGi9cM4/s4032/IMG_8258.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaqhChUDirTcA_zxxH1lJlUwR34vCjDhEVuFPkZBbn0ne9youBvl1NwyYQttwWF_4D1fszY5zFMpVR-2JsNcNTpdojwwvsXcnZbPvey0z131t2DyhTc67Gbodc20-gDXiDU2vrUTRnJXm8IWeiyaE8kdB8BqeokBF_dI4fGFSU4sHLs7ArD4iPxGi9cM4/w300-h400/IMG_8258.jpeg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dieffenbachia </td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br />I found a drop of water on the tip of one of my dieffenbachia's leaves. What? I checked to see if there was a ceiling leak. Thank goodness no, but... then what caused this water drop? <span><a name='more'></a></span><span></span></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">If you find some water drops on some of your houseplant’s leaves, it is usually caused by one of three things:</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><b>1.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Transpiration:</b> It is the process of water moving through the plant and its evaporation from the leaves. Leaves drip when they have as much moisture as they can hold. <u>This is the main cause of water drops on plants.</u> If this is becoming a common occurrence, consider reducing water to the plant.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJFn9GEuWRxII3-da5zJ5BxvObIQtaZD4KR_8ifxWpqrkWUlRN4fFAgYt-8NRLfxmZ6UUJwC_pJmAWrYMNguvPtxleNA-_1ptSNL6wS-z2YXKPGEs06JKmzD4lUf20ERVAXrzmFRStVoXU7pJhgOUbNEdrG9GRGW7JbkYnkwqFENWlQ9vWLMklKARcSKM/s750/Sruce-plantsUrl-1crop-01800ccaa0a34e7ba24bd83bb982d1fc.webp" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="750" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJFn9GEuWRxII3-da5zJ5BxvObIQtaZD4KR_8ifxWpqrkWUlRN4fFAgYt-8NRLfxmZ6UUJwC_pJmAWrYMNguvPtxleNA-_1ptSNL6wS-z2YXKPGEs06JKmzD4lUf20ERVAXrzmFRStVoXU7pJhgOUbNEdrG9GRGW7JbkYnkwqFENWlQ9vWLMklKARcSKM/w400-h266/Sruce-plantsUrl-1crop-01800ccaa0a34e7ba24bd83bb982d1fc.webp" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #666666; text-align: left;"><i><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: x-small;"> The Spruce / Fiona Campbell</span></i></span></td></tr></tbody></table><b style="font-family: arial; font-size: large;"><br /></b></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><b>2.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span> Dew:</b> Condensation can occur when the air around the plant cools down. It is more likely to happen in the warmer months with open windows causing temperature differences in the air and the plant. As the temperature drops, water vapor in the air turns into liquid and forms dew on the plants. Most of the time it is reabsorbed by the plants’ leaves. More commonly seen on outside plants in the early morning.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG6jb7u5qj7YR136JLXiqs9pUMZaXyBvlRaBFT9mxX5Ay1FA6OFCzGmfyqE7Ob9j9v9sGm8OXINIOZ9gCxrtARPvzOsIS34bEuqPxURVusZ5OdxJZc8h3j8ocnb2bwKr4jwcQ-Xjh0ItAS6keJ6KTtvtMXghPikHgEOXCmG-vEMTOCqhE0cWi8RfZG8Tw/s479/morning-dew-in-the-form-of-drops-on-the-young-green-grass-picture-id1130142089-2620093679.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="359" data-original-width="479" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG6jb7u5qj7YR136JLXiqs9pUMZaXyBvlRaBFT9mxX5Ay1FA6OFCzGmfyqE7Ob9j9v9sGm8OXINIOZ9gCxrtARPvzOsIS34bEuqPxURVusZ5OdxJZc8h3j8ocnb2bwKr4jwcQ-Xjh0ItAS6keJ6KTtvtMXghPikHgEOXCmG-vEMTOCqhE0cWi8RfZG8Tw/w400-h300/morning-dew-in-the-form-of-drops-on-the-young-green-grass-picture-id1130142089-2620093679.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: x-small;"><i>iStock / Marina Krisenko</i></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP89SLxgV8GN-cAj2n3033wU5m32QgBeccYqj-plccpWVBefGFE_JBGU5T2zdY2YnjVdwV23g1opChSsheT_1U12_PJTe1ZMFlfeMpV8JA2fL8WICLjUn8U8-BK_e-Q7iz2XIU-tMxRAJtjL11W7rfGND6FbruI6eXbKykMeHALYpOXqkzy5BBqeoer_Q/s2592/8f5a827e27f604fe480ddb9ff4cc997b-888314838.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1936" data-original-width="2592" height="299" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP89SLxgV8GN-cAj2n3033wU5m32QgBeccYqj-plccpWVBefGFE_JBGU5T2zdY2YnjVdwV23g1opChSsheT_1U12_PJTe1ZMFlfeMpV8JA2fL8WICLjUn8U8-BK_e-Q7iz2XIU-tMxRAJtjL11W7rfGND6FbruI6eXbKykMeHALYpOXqkzy5BBqeoer_Q/w400-h299/8f5a827e27f604fe480ddb9ff4cc997b-888314838.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: x-small;"><i>Pinterest / Morning Dew on Grass</i></span></td></tr></tbody></table></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><b>3.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span> Guttation:</b> Pressure relief for plants – tiny water drops spaced uniformly around margins of a leaf. Unlike transpiration, however, guttation results in multiple water droplets appearing across the plant. With nighttime conditions of cool air, high humidity and warm soil, root pressure can move water to the leaves. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkGtfzcQj-idAdtz9WsQSrQCuvM5zqqgA9O5Z601WcTqY5mt27yYVaIG_dEyEy0ia5MWKXz_wMpcXpiUmbxrPtgiwOj3kq9sEt9ydMkzgMeQq5uqe_XPU1wUkG0hZG7Q-PstfuMll-CJnOkDFdbBIcYWyeh9gucTvIzEDcCYQPzp6H8bhoJ78OEEywLl0/s306/fig3.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><i><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" data-original-height="306" data-original-width="230" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkGtfzcQj-idAdtz9WsQSrQCuvM5zqqgA9O5Z601WcTqY5mt27yYVaIG_dEyEy0ia5MWKXz_wMpcXpiUmbxrPtgiwOj3kq9sEt9ydMkzgMeQq5uqe_XPU1wUkG0hZG7Q-PstfuMll-CJnOkDFdbBIcYWyeh9gucTvIzEDcCYQPzp6H8bhoJ78OEEywLl0/w301-h400/fig3.jpg" width="301" /></span></i></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: x-small;">University of Missouri / droplets on a tomato leaf in a greenhouse</span></i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNSlkn5lf65CG2vhpbryngbnk6vTVOTwQqF0FJGXD2AjuikYhn2drDF-Hlqo0wMQhmObKJJ2okcUkcWEZ7NQgSVqhRC6DRjVLbPDiAwkKQZvDAUwtF2Irl-gmF_0uZt35khJyu_-ctfzD45-pz6qy9W-cWHLKE7489FkhQqDNb6VkcypO_it3QiMjwqjA/s863/G11.1_guttation.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" data-original-height="555" data-original-width="863" height="258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNSlkn5lf65CG2vhpbryngbnk6vTVOTwQqF0FJGXD2AjuikYhn2drDF-Hlqo0wMQhmObKJJ2okcUkcWEZ7NQgSVqhRC6DRjVLbPDiAwkKQZvDAUwtF2Irl-gmF_0uZt35khJyu_-ctfzD45-pz6qy9W-cWHLKE7489FkhQqDNb6VkcypO_it3QiMjwqjA/w400-h258/G11.1_guttation.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: x-small;">Guttation / Noah Elhardt, Public domain</span></i></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></i></td></tr></tbody></table></td></tr></tbody></table><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">The amount of water a houseplant needs could change throughout the year. Check your plants' health and your watering habits.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><b><u><br /></u></b></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><b><u>Sources: </u></b> </span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><i>University of Missouri – Integrated Pest Management</i> <a href="https://ipm.missouri.edu/MEG/2009/6/Guttation-A-Pressure-Relief-for-Plants/index.cfm">https://ipm.missouri.edu/MEG/2009/6/Guttation-A-Pressure-Relief-for-Plants/index.cfm</a></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><i>The Spruce </i><a href="https://www.thespruce.com/why-do-houseplant-leaves-drip-1402999">https://www.thespruce.com/why-do-houseplant-leaves-drip-1402999</a></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><i>Homes & Gardens</i> <a href="https://www.homesandgardens.com/gardens/why-are-there-drops-of-water-on-my-plants">https://www.homesandgardens.com/gardens/why-are-there-drops-of-water-on-my-plants</a></span></div><div><br /></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8498367531054994251.post-86187180235466277472024-01-10T01:00:00.001-07:002024-01-17T06:39:41.508-07:00What is Winter Sowing? By Cynthia Baldwin<div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Winter sowing is a method of starting seeds outdoors in winter. This method takes advantage of natural temperatures. You will not need to refrigerate seeds to satisfy cold stratification. Winter sowing involves sowing seeds in an enclosed container outside during winter, allowing them to germinate in spring. <span><a name='more'></a></span></span></div><div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">What are the advantages? It’s simple to do. It’s effective. You don’t have to start seeds indoors or invest in a lot of expensive equipment. It allows someone who doesn’t have the room, nor the space available indoors to start seeds. Winter sown seedlings are hardier. There is no need to harden off the seedlings as they are acclimated to outdoor conditions. They are ready to plant whenever the outside temperatures have sufficiently warmed and they are the right size (2-3 inches or two sets of real leaves). </span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">What can you winter sow? Native plants, perennials, herbs, annuals, vegetables. (start after the winter solstice, Dec. 21) first because they require 4-6 weeks of cold stratification. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">When to winter sow? After the Winter Solstice (December. 21st), January to February is good. Native plants and perennials will not need cold stratification. Annuals and vegetables can be sowed through April. Frost-tolerant flowers and vegetables such as petunias, cosmos, kale, broccoli, spinach, and brussels sprouts successfully withstand the cold temperatures of early winter. Frost-sensitive species such as zinnias, tomatoes, and squash need to wait until the warmer temperatures of March or April before sowing using this method. </span></div><div><br /></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">How do you winter sow? To begin, create your miniature greenhouse from recycled plastic containers. Milk jugs that allow light to penetrate work well. Experiment with the recyclable containers you have on hand. As long as it holds 3-4" of potting soil, with a little headroom for the seedlings to sprout and grow, you're good to go! </span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ8_dVO-yHk2XrQUEk3pgWj65A7kLwTJCfxn40AAEciBOCAOQbbwMlnCjHyNtU4UhhNxzEoL6CI0YBrFrRwllwM-OoUQaAAwYstMv59ZKT-p9a_Ce2VuQCKVzMGK7qudMOhJcvYRoF9gAcyi6VYp56JWzLY4DColc5zMOv5VEbRfRF8JvWOToxGGNsNek/s1256/Screenshot%202023-12-17%20at%204.42.13%E2%80%AFPM.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1170" data-original-width="1256" height="373" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ8_dVO-yHk2XrQUEk3pgWj65A7kLwTJCfxn40AAEciBOCAOQbbwMlnCjHyNtU4UhhNxzEoL6CI0YBrFrRwllwM-OoUQaAAwYstMv59ZKT-p9a_Ce2VuQCKVzMGK7qudMOhJcvYRoF9gAcyi6VYp56JWzLY4DColc5zMOv5VEbRfRF8JvWOToxGGNsNek/w400-h373/Screenshot%202023-12-17%20at%204.42.13%E2%80%AFPM.jpeg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-family: arial; font-size: small;">Graphic courtesy of Skycrest Studios</i></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /><span>Because the containers will collect snow and rain, add drainage holes in your mini-greenhouse. With a drill or utility knife, cut several holes into the bottom of the container. Cut around the milk jug below the bottom of the handle, without cutting the top of the container all the way off. Leave about a half an inch intact just below the handle. This section acts as a hinge to hold the container together. </span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKVBfAL_GsbcwlmFsc8l4aa1liY46f7oXEn2aUbVXbD3JitPdGDdeYhtWh6QYod807miccIEsA7pkg1bxEzSEwXHeRZ_USAepa6HJGiVe46A7CPJ5SM2LUox61DABMk0IrP17zgJK2cuO-4SNWFgjEwg-do3uDDeUMV2h86rfS0bDG3ABv-XHE6wTUGSg/s1200/Screenshot%202023-12-17%20at%204.42.53%E2%80%AFPM.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="996" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKVBfAL_GsbcwlmFsc8l4aa1liY46f7oXEn2aUbVXbD3JitPdGDdeYhtWh6QYod807miccIEsA7pkg1bxEzSEwXHeRZ_USAepa6HJGiVe46A7CPJ5SM2LUox61DABMk0IrP17zgJK2cuO-4SNWFgjEwg-do3uDDeUMV2h86rfS0bDG3ABv-XHE6wTUGSg/w333-h400/Screenshot%202023-12-17%20at%204.42.53%E2%80%AFPM.jpeg" width="333" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-family: arial; font-size: small;">Graphic courtesy of Skycrest Studios<br /><br /></i></td></tr></tbody></table></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Next, fill the bottom of the miniature greenhouse. Moisten the soil and allow it to drain. The soil should have a moisture level like a damp sponge. Light and fluffy soil that drains well works best. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">The container is now ready for seeds. Small seeds can be left on top of the soil, however larger seeds require more attention. Follow the instructions on the seed packet for planting depths of larger seeds. Make sure there is good contact between the seed and the soil. Replace the lid and secure with duct tape. Throw away the cap. Label the container with the date and the type of seed planted. Your small greenhouse container is ready to go outdoors. While the mini-greenhouses should receive sunlight and have exposure to rain and snow, they should be placed in an area that is safe from strong winds, people and animals.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">The temperature variation prepares the seeds for germination at the proper time. It may be necessary to add a little water during warm weather spells in the winter. One easy way to check if the container needs water is to pick them up and see if the soil is wet or heavy; if not add a little water. When the days begin to warm, seedlings will emerge. After emergence, open the container on sunny days, but close it at dusk to protect the seedlings from cold night temperatures. The seedlings naturally harden off and can be transplanted when soil temperatures reach proper levels. Cut flaps along the side of the miniature greenhouse to slide seedlings out. Divide the clump into pieces and plant as you would a store variety. </span></div><div><br /></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Sources/Resources: </span></div></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://jeffcogardener.blogspot.com/2021/07/my-first-attempt-at-winter-sowing-by.html"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">My First Attempt at Winter Sowing by Dawn Savage</span></a></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><a href="https://extension.missouri.edu/publications/ym105"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Winter Sowing Seeds, a Youth Gardening Activity</span></a></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><a href="https://extension.umd.edu/sites/extension.umd.edu/files/2021-12/All%20the%20Dirt%20on%20Winter%20Sowing%20Power%20Point.pdf">All the Dirt on Winter Sowing</a><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><a href="https://extension.psu.edu/starting-seeds-in-winter"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Starting Seeds in Winter</span></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><p></p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8498367531054994251.post-45127369187424199142023-12-29T01:00:00.011-07:002023-12-29T01:00:00.131-07:00Christmas Tree Recycling 2024 by Vicky Spelman<div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-y9apMyOtrVYDH1SRUSWN5VIh0T_wHAJKMPRaV-RZLAVFe1xEilIA4OekqC4nxc7VoxN-BeWXhmG7XZ9crQtfd5WzsDfRWX8ATNcW0BKW6r422Mt2KWi6meXlfUsi9mLpdEQ8Ux3Jpb8KBS8nA8UH-bDjQTlJH50o_l4F8ZyXpX4Oq5bZBRpHxMxug14/s591/tree3-2923028769.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="591" data-original-width="591" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-y9apMyOtrVYDH1SRUSWN5VIh0T_wHAJKMPRaV-RZLAVFe1xEilIA4OekqC4nxc7VoxN-BeWXhmG7XZ9crQtfd5WzsDfRWX8ATNcW0BKW6r422Mt2KWi6meXlfUsi9mLpdEQ8Ux3Jpb8KBS8nA8UH-bDjQTlJH50o_l4F8ZyXpX4Oq5bZBRpHxMxug14/s320/tree3-2923028769.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Many municipalities across Colorado have free tree recycling or composting programs for holiday pines that have served their festive purpose.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br />What happens to the trees? In most cases, the trees are chipped and made into a mulch which is usually made available free to city or county residents. </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /><u>Trees must be stripped of all ornaments, hardware, strings of lights and tinsel.<span><a name='more'></a></span></u></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><u><br /></u>Here are five in Jefferson County that have Christmas tree recycling programs. </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /><b><u>Arvada:</u></b></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">December 26 - through mid-January </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">No restricted days or times</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><u>Lake Arbor Lake park</u> - 6400 Pomona Drive</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><u>Stenger Fields</u> - at West 58th Avenue and Oak Street</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">The mulch will be available free of charge at all drop-site locations.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">For more information, contact Parks Department at 720-898-7410</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b><u><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Evergreen:</span></u></b></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Recycle your holiday tree and block Styrofoam</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><u>- Jan 6, 2024, 1-4pm</u> at vacant lot (old McDonalds) across from King Soopers, 1246 Bergen Parkway, Evergreen<br /><u>- Jan 6,2024 9am-3pm</u> at vacant lot (1246 Bergen Parkway) and Evergreen Lutheran Church (5980 Hwy 73)<br /><u>- Jan 13, 2024, 9am-3pm</u> at vacant lot (1246 Bergen Parkway) and Evergreen Lutheran Church (5980 Hwy 73)</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="color: #333333; font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span style="background-color: white;">Trees are mulched by LamTreeServices for community use.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Phone: (720) 536-0069 </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Email: info@sustainevergreen.org</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /><b><u>Golden:</u></b> </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Christmas Tree recycling is provided by the City of Golden Forestry Division. <br />December 27 – January 27</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><u>West of the intersection at Highway 93 & Golden Gate Canyon Road</u>. Please place your tree near the sign posted for tree recycling. The trees will be turned into mulch, which will eventually be available for free at the public pickup site on 11th Street, just west of the Clear Creek History Park. </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">For further details, contact the City of Golden Forestry office at 303-384-8141.<br /><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><b><u>Lakewood:</u></b></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Tree recycling is free for Lakewood residents. Mulch is available on request.<br />December 26 – January 7<br />Hours: 7am – 3pm<br /><u>Lakewood's Greenhouse - between Estes and old Kipling streets, 9556 W. Yale Ave.</u><br />For more information, please call 720-963-5240.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><b><u>Wheat Ridge:</u></b> <br />Dec. 27th through the end of January for Wheat Ridge Residents. </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Hours: 7:00am - 6:00pm </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><u>Tree drop off locations </u></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"> <u>* East Parking Lot of Anderson Park - 4355 Field St.</u><br /> <u>* East Parking Lot of Panorama Park by the Ballfields - W 33rd Ave & Fenton St.</u><br />Trees are chipped into mulch that is recycled for use in planter beds and around trees in City parks. The Program is open to City of Wheat Ridge Residents only. No trailers or dump trucks. Drop off only during park hours.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">For additional cities and counties in Colorado:</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /><a href="https://www.cpr.org/2023/12/26/how-to-recycle-your-christmas-tree/">RecycleChristmasTrees#1</a></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><a href="https://pickyourownchristmastree.org/ColoradoTreeRecyclingDisposal.php">RecycleChristmasTrees#2</a></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><i><img border="0" data-original-height="1198" data-original-width="1200" height="319" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP5O82KgUDq5TXrq7L1E2U44d9B3EbTInbLpFoJA4IWeVXAkAL1B406T5zkIGx0GCrcibuthd4HYRwjpb6h242TmifYRAh_l1DZMIOHH6mmzOIrGL7M40H7GMhVO7ZAJ-JsyCzuiOOSdiLCoHT8Pbr-tiev8Hom8hv0Y2k22Ehfl5nk6oEtuRRGt1D5yg/s320/tangled-christmas-lights-royalty-free-image-1667943592.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="320" /></i></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><br />Courtesy:</i> <span style="font-family: arial; font-size: x-small;"><i>KINGA KRZEMINSKA//GETTY IMAGES</i></span></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP5O82KgUDq5TXrq7L1E2U44d9B3EbTInbLpFoJA4IWeVXAkAL1B406T5zkIGx0GCrcibuthd4HYRwjpb6h242TmifYRAh_l1DZMIOHH6mmzOIrGL7M40H7GMhVO7ZAJ-JsyCzuiOOSdiLCoHT8Pbr-tiev8Hom8hv0Y2k22Ehfl5nk6oEtuRRGt1D5yg/s1200/tangled-christmas-lights-royalty-free-image-1667943592.jpg"><span style="font-family: arial;"></span></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><b><u>To recycle your old Christmas and Holiday Lights:</u></b></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><b><u><br /></u></b>Lakewood wants you to recycle your old, broken or unwanted holiday lights by dropping them off at the 1068 Quail St. Recycling Center. Collection will be available through Sunday, January 21st between 7am and 5pm. </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Hardware stores: Retailers like The Home Depot, Lowe's, Ace Hardware and True Value will accept your Christmas lights for recycling. Check with your local hardware store for specifics, including drop-off locations.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8498367531054994251.post-90678022031835489502023-12-10T01:00:00.001-07:002023-12-10T01:00:00.133-07:00Tips for Care of Cut Christmas Trees by Vicky Spelman<p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRPGDPqbRWWkxBUNbHZ5xda19HbjvWxXpiZi_CRl0Cg0GLp3vkZVzTy6dNXIHGEB-wtlDHCUi1gYF7Ffd0f78QVQ_OJL5ouSalAI2VIH4kBBoXzDPlR-Q3GnV3RSgb-EkmZoNxUSXLhg0/s463/image_3777_1_2_1_262_1_23_1_28_2_11_2_2_2_38_1_94_7_2_24_46_6_414_49_21_45_2_25_15_1_9_1_18_9_6_5_1_21_3_29_8_2_1_13_5_1_1127.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" data-original-height="309" data-original-width="463" height="268" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRPGDPqbRWWkxBUNbHZ5xda19HbjvWxXpiZi_CRl0Cg0GLp3vkZVzTy6dNXIHGEB-wtlDHCUi1gYF7Ffd0f78QVQ_OJL5ouSalAI2VIH4kBBoXzDPlR-Q3GnV3RSgb-EkmZoNxUSXLhg0/w400-h268/image_3777_1_2_1_262_1_23_1_28_2_11_2_2_2_38_1_94_7_2_24_46_6_414_49_21_45_2_25_15_1_9_1_18_9_6_5_1_21_3_29_8_2_1_13_5_1_1127.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: #f4f5f3; color: #333333; font-family: "Gotham A", "Gotham B"; font-size: x-small; letter-spacing: 0.4px; text-align: start;">Christmas Tree Farm Photo credit: Penn State Extension Master Gardener Program</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br />Is your Christmas tree up? Did you get a fresh one? Whether you cut your own tree or bought a pre-cut tree, here are some tips to make the most of your fresh tree. <span></span></span><p></p><a name='more'></a><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">“Most commercially available Christmas trees are harvested the first couple weeks of November. If you enjoy decorating your home as early as Thanksgiving or early December, you are challenging a tree to maintain its freshness in the warm, dry environment of our heated homes. To optimize the length of time a tree looks its best, seek out the freshest tree, choose tree varieties which can take indoor conditions, and optimize the environment once the tree is brought into your home”. ~PennState Extension </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">1.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>When deciding where to place the tree in your home, consider where your heat sources are: avoid the fireplace, furnace vents and direct sunlight. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">2.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Maintaining a high level of moisture in the tree is the single most important factor for reducing needle loss. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">3.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Make sure your tree stand has an adequate water-holding capacity. It should have a water basin that provides 1 quart of water per inch of stem diameter – it should probably hold at least a gallon of water. You will have to replenish the water daily, particularly during the first week or so. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">4.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>If not decorating right away, place its trunk in water and store in a cool, shaded and protected area such as an unheated garage.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">5.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>If the tree was cut within the past 12 hours, it is not be necessary to recut the trunk prior to displaying indoors. If it was cut down before that, the trunk should be recut to improve water uptake. <br /></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">6.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Water temperate will not affect the water uptake.</span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZKCHSMKE1mZJV24FzWZzk8z6jmCLL0llpld7A5VL8sJ2v4dbKj5Lrlxcn8nkr2a92og4UCzfYJQ6m6bIbeSrVthAfJpdltR0Wmj5idVXfhx1b5p9xzzykEtpys_sP61xTW5qTqlws7nM/s663/Natural+trees+use+a+lot+of+water.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="511" data-original-width="663" height="309" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZKCHSMKE1mZJV24FzWZzk8z6jmCLL0llpld7A5VL8sJ2v4dbKj5Lrlxcn8nkr2a92og4UCzfYJQ6m6bIbeSrVthAfJpdltR0Wmj5idVXfhx1b5p9xzzykEtpys_sP61xTW5qTqlws7nM/w400-h309/Natural+trees+use+a+lot+of+water.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Courtesy Non-political Beyond the Far Side group </span></td></tr></tbody></table><p><span style="font-size: medium;">Avoid: <br />1.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span> Applying anti-transpirants to the tree - it will not have a significant effect on the moisture rate loss.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">2.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Adding water-holding gels to the water stand - it is not beneficial. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">3.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Using additives, such as floral preservatives, commercial tree preservatives, sugar, aspirin, etc. in the water. Clean water is all that is necessary to maintain freshness.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">4.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Avoid spraying trees with flame retardants. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">The newer LED Christmas lights generate less heat than the older types of lights. And… always turn off the lights when the tree is unattended.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">Sources and additional information: <a href="https://extension.psu.edu/tips-for-selection-and-care-of-cut-christmas-trees">PennStateExtension</a>, <a href="https://www.extension.iastate.edu/news/yard-and-garden-how-select-and-care-fresh-christmas-trees?fbclid=IwAR07MUhj6ixs-tKFGZFrEl50HSVBiD0qqm2LZvp_-MgQARdZT0ZZ88pc3s8">IowaStateUniversity</a></span></p><div><br /></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8498367531054994251.post-41890583317303012462023-12-07T01:00:00.003-07:002023-12-07T01:00:00.176-07:00Ready to plant an Amaryllis bulb for the Holidays? by Vicky Spelman<div><span style="font-family: arial;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-size: large; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgp3vRkXIFj5MUnQ1zvty1ghmAUmTiqfDZT4Ov_pzjGs3e6_yBoeOrYAu0v_kJS6wo7LTEayAhlX4nVbPbP3y-Z-298oOyvG4-5-_refw2osfsA31aprn-f0qmnq9s69ul0i3bt61EnhmTshU-vw4_V8qk1xzpJmMzLJTsNJ5M365caKpJ_tHuywie0=s400" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="400" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgp3vRkXIFj5MUnQ1zvty1ghmAUmTiqfDZT4Ov_pzjGs3e6_yBoeOrYAu0v_kJS6wo7LTEayAhlX4nVbPbP3y-Z-298oOyvG4-5-_refw2osfsA31aprn-f0qmnq9s69ul0i3bt61EnhmTshU-vw4_V8qk1xzpJmMzLJTsNJ5M365caKpJ_tHuywie0=s320" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Courtesy: University of Minnesota Extension</i></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">Have you tried growing an amaryllis bulb for the Holidays? Whether it’s your first bulb or your tenth, there is always lots of anticipation waiting for the beefy bulb to produce a flower - easy and fun to do.<span><a name='more'></a></span></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br />Amaryllis flowers range in size from around 6-10 inches and can be either single or double in form. The size and condition of the bulbs will influence their performance. There are many colors to choose from: red, pink, orange, salmon to name a few. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgd1F0w7V80R-Q9ls3hVbI1iBGdFA-EolX3mByHkn5YwUFgeRYPYqR50xc1323Q0HZJGtb_Qosl8JJ_SI26VOphy1y9HEEIIle0GAUfbILNq79UqglxpNk48KkDIVxVhhGudVdCVLJZZp-fxM0aZKlO12U6UKqzEF3Z8J7S1Qkczu5IY8YDwHIcX7Aj=s400" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="400" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgd1F0w7V80R-Q9ls3hVbI1iBGdFA-EolX3mByHkn5YwUFgeRYPYqR50xc1323Q0HZJGtb_Qosl8JJ_SI26VOphy1y9HEEIIle0GAUfbILNq79UqglxpNk48KkDIVxVhhGudVdCVLJZZp-fxM0aZKlO12U6UKqzEF3Z8J7S1Qkczu5IY8YDwHIcX7Aj=w400-h400" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-family: arial; font-size: small;">Courtesy: University of Minnesota Extension</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><u>Selecting the bulb:</u></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">1.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span> Pick the largest bulb available for the variety you choose. The larger the bulb, the more flowers it will have.<br />2.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Make sure they are firm and dry with no signs of decay or injury. It is common to see new growth emerging from the bulb.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><u style="font-family: arial; font-size: large;">Selecting your container:</u></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">1.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span> Amaryllis grow best in narrow containers and can be plastic, metal, ceramic or terracotta. It should be approximately 1 inch wider than the widest part of the bulb and twice as tall for good root development. Just make sure your container has at least one hole in the bottom for good drainage.<br />2.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Fill your container about half full with new potting soil – high inorganic matter, such as peat moss. Place your bulb so the roots rest on the potting soil. Add more soil, tapping it down around the bulb. The bulb should be planted so that 1/3 to ½ of the bulb is above the soil surface. <br />3.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Thoroughly water your bulb so the soil is moist and allow it to drain completely.</span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg32hxQOD_GN4UXynhMgm9qQ-FZPohxFeT9_v-lIoCRHK9nhsCnMVgzvhR3PvGefaUuZ6TEqfJTo6uKochlTDb4iHvpCswrezyaiC9PxTT5GFWrhXHuAZ8q3RhvftUbT4hz3K4QjY1dbIidbR_E9QU1xI5HZc9oM8idxc6R8KHoH2ra8MroA0rRYYtV=s640" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg32hxQOD_GN4UXynhMgm9qQ-FZPohxFeT9_v-lIoCRHK9nhsCnMVgzvhR3PvGefaUuZ6TEqfJTo6uKochlTDb4iHvpCswrezyaiC9PxTT5GFWrhXHuAZ8q3RhvftUbT4hz3K4QjY1dbIidbR_E9QU1xI5HZc9oM8idxc6R8KHoH2ra8MroA0rRYYtV=w300-h400" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiDpcgwb2FYo6uBiCc4YDtz2CYKP3nNH8SaJLS6P2ErU8EmEV8Q9u_uchNOeqzHpGHldfiEEffiToWilTZlLR4gte6p0q9thT8eormD-sEP5N02r0dSxgYYsxa0rkIFaqwbdqcpFMpQpwmOXVq4dSA1czo1uEP5NCKo8Qz9SvrLry3qhCXMUEamnmWD=s640" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiDpcgwb2FYo6uBiCc4YDtz2CYKP3nNH8SaJLS6P2ErU8EmEV8Q9u_uchNOeqzHpGHldfiEEffiToWilTZlLR4gte6p0q9thT8eormD-sEP5N02r0dSxgYYsxa0rkIFaqwbdqcpFMpQpwmOXVq4dSA1czo1uEP5NCKo8Qz9SvrLry3qhCXMUEamnmWD=w300-h400" width="300" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhyr-k9eGBPJffcTjdYr3br2gXmhEmBRtCM3NFHgTveZ25ueW94eAkEhP8US-xY-EUvXhRG2TLVsCiNa-eEpJ5UJ-HalUFAZk_Y1lSjelJ7QgXj0mqm-W6OTwpqaSJXv7_Y0am0nV0w1eUWudhm0Qd3OZzylkczNAVbRS0NSXQVFSKVaAc6B2z_cJNj=s640" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhyr-k9eGBPJffcTjdYr3br2gXmhEmBRtCM3NFHgTveZ25ueW94eAkEhP8US-xY-EUvXhRG2TLVsCiNa-eEpJ5UJ-HalUFAZk_Y1lSjelJ7QgXj0mqm-W6OTwpqaSJXv7_Y0am0nV0w1eUWudhm0Qd3OZzylkczNAVbRS0NSXQVFSKVaAc6B2z_cJNj=w300-h400" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-family: arial; font-size: small;">Above: University of Minnesota Extension</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div></div></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><u>Caring for your bulb:</u><br />1.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span> Place your bulb container and saucer in a sunny window until the flower buds have begun to open, then move it out of direct sunlight to prolong the life of the flowers.<br />2.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Water when the top 2 inches or so feels dry and allow it to drain completely. Not allowing it to drain can lead to bulb and root rot, also it may attract pests.<br />3.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Once you see new growth emerging, use a houseplant fertilizer at half strength to promote blooming. Fertilizing an amaryllis bulb that has no leaves can kill the roots.<br /><br />Ready to get and plant your bulbs?</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br />Resources used (also has information if you want to save your bulbs for next year). </span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /><a href="https://planttalk.colostate.edu/topics/houseplants/1303-amaryllis/">CSU-Planttalk-Amaryllis</a></span></div><div><br /></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><a href="https://extension.umn.edu/houseplants/amaryllis">University of Minnesota Extension-Amaryllis</a></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /><a href="https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/amaryllis/">Clemson Cooperative Extension-Amaryllis</a></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div>Vicky Spelmanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06805867506977038941noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8498367531054994251.post-19590392986141904932023-12-05T01:00:00.016-07:002024-01-17T06:40:35.976-07:00Forcing Paperwhites to Bloom by Vicky Spelman<div style="text-align: left;"><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi6vuR47k934fRvia95C3j0sYU06QkXSqIZRlP5pHOdx86jLs1KsNRPWEA8GvcOUY7q3diSMtsIj8M5HBziGAFWQ-3WXuQv9qjrcy8k1Reu07qDazla0mP5aCdm2KHkX2m4sN5s-nvljwoNRReYRYVN5rYjR1dnkp-r3XiiywVWegNo_KH5w0ZEFJSpvs/s1500/FreeImages.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1500" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi6vuR47k934fRvia95C3j0sYU06QkXSqIZRlP5pHOdx86jLs1KsNRPWEA8GvcOUY7q3diSMtsIj8M5HBziGAFWQ-3WXuQv9qjrcy8k1Reu07qDazla0mP5aCdm2KHkX2m4sN5s-nvljwoNRReYRYVN5rYjR1dnkp-r3XiiywVWegNo_KH5w0ZEFJSpvs/w400-h266/FreeImages.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Photo: FreeImages</i></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /> Blooming houseplants are the best during the Winter months! Gardeners and bulb lovers like to force bulbs to bloom during the winter holidays to brighten the days. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Paperwhite narcissus bulbs are one of the easiest to force for cut flowers or ornamental displays in the home during the Holidays as they don’t need a chilling period to bloom, unlike tulips and hyacinths. <span><a name='more'></a></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoc229TRYgDKXHdia3xPURrlE251x0JwyQ6DOzvtRTv2v7g8QVrp_0MHXiN6idq_o3uMsx9J9T6dDPTQgB1vD8e-vfNbtuOLCt0uAFqBwd4RF9tpcZkRU9diOhHF7rdBIhH77ZkJ0AQnRoIRIOIMUqkgLGFbe2iAWpKeqbuCPIRRQLwlGDz7P4N2N9w0I/s902/Pinterest.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="902" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoc229TRYgDKXHdia3xPURrlE251x0JwyQ6DOzvtRTv2v7g8QVrp_0MHXiN6idq_o3uMsx9J9T6dDPTQgB1vD8e-vfNbtuOLCt0uAFqBwd4RF9tpcZkRU9diOhHF7rdBIhH77ZkJ0AQnRoIRIOIMUqkgLGFbe2iAWpKeqbuCPIRRQLwlGDz7P4N2N9w0I/w266-h400/Pinterest.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: x-small;"><i>Photo: Pinterest</i></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">You can force them to bloom in either soil or water:</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>fill a bulb pan (or other container) with about one to two inches of potting soil, and then position the bulbs in the soil so they are nearly touching each other with pointed end up. Add enough potting soil so that only the top half of the bulbs remain exposed, then water well.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>they can also be forced in a shallow container with pebbles and water. Place the bulbs on the gravel/stones, with additional gravel/stones around the bulbs (leaving tips exposed) to keep them in place. Add water until it touches the bottom of the bulbs and maintain this water level throughout the forcing period. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">To prolong their bloom period, move them from direct sunlight when the plants begin to flower.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><b>Study from Cornell College of Agriculture and Life Sciences: You can use alcohol to reduce growth of paperwhite narcissus to keep them from getting leggy. </b>(P</span><span style="font-family: arial;">aperwhites often require staking as plants may reach a height of 18 to 20 inches.)</span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi30zx3rZJhM6qCncIASB2vedXPuL4kKLuIf0_WI8B4YSvA1fHc6EJLeV1_n8mLW7ZPxZ1gxx1WKFjdM9ljEMMLgiYhUzQSUiGu-X40xGT_P2S1uAywI6njDvkDyzGNl6S_xfawlREggRcyslPkxJEBy0OitvaqWKThQ1SVuNf0S1oBIa7tDEeMbAsblEk/s350/pickled_paperwhitesx350.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="163" data-original-width="350" height="186" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi30zx3rZJhM6qCncIASB2vedXPuL4kKLuIf0_WI8B4YSvA1fHc6EJLeV1_n8mLW7ZPxZ1gxx1WKFjdM9ljEMMLgiYhUzQSUiGu-X40xGT_P2S1uAywI6njDvkDyzGNl6S_xfawlREggRcyslPkxJEBy0OitvaqWKThQ1SVuNf0S1oBIa7tDEeMbAsblEk/w400-h186/pickled_paperwhitesx350.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: x-small;"><i>Photo: Cornell University</i></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: large;">The Flower Bulb Research Program at Cornell University conducted experiments using various kinds of alcohol and discovered that plant height will be reduced by one third thus stopping the “flop over”. Alcohol interferes with water uptake and will reduce stem height. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><u>Here are their recommendations:</u></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Start your bulbs in plain water. When roots have formed and the green shoot is 1 to 2 inches long, pour off the water and replace with a solution of 4 to 6% alcohol. Example: to get a 5% solution from a 40% distilled spirit (gin vodka, etc.) you add 1 part of the booze to 7 parts water. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>You can also use Rubbing Alcohol (isopropyl alcohol) – it is usually 70% alcohol, so a solution of 1 part to 10 parts water.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Simply use this solution to continue to water your bulbs.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Do not use beer or wine, as the sugars in them will cause major problems with the plants.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><u>Can paperwhite bulbs be saved or used again after they have been forced to bloom inside?</u></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>No, they should be discarded - they cannot successfully be forced to bloom again and are not winter hardy.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Enjoy a glass of wine while you give the paperwhite bulbs a drink of booze and enjoy your beautiful shorter flowers.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">CSU: <a href="https://planttalk.colostate.edu/topics/houseplants/1322-paperwhite-narcissus/">Plant Talk 1322 – paperwhite-narcissus</a></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Cornell University: <a href="https://flowerbulbs.cornell.edu/forcing-research/pickling-your-paperwhites/">Pickling Your Paperwhites</a></span></div><div><br /></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8498367531054994251.post-38883356284046814132023-11-02T01:30:00.001-06:002023-11-02T01:30:00.161-06:00Utah Juniper: Nature's Caretaker by Charlotte Coles<p> </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcD4gj5YS8r8RRCfg69L9GcX04gKk5ioqlVl0AYRjyoXObwrPgl6U6wg2ct7J3Iidrg79VhA_KlEVY4bg64vRM0qj78n4DN1j-irwelMIpLiDAf8giwzxBDNXGUBLJCZ9a2Jxy8uwoN6ZKSsw8F7z_Ap2FyJ6YfAxJ_h7Zg_R2Ne2eoJ0FpR_pMHtnFo4p/s1280/juniper%202.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="1024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcD4gj5YS8r8RRCfg69L9GcX04gKk5ioqlVl0AYRjyoXObwrPgl6U6wg2ct7J3Iidrg79VhA_KlEVY4bg64vRM0qj78n4DN1j-irwelMIpLiDAf8giwzxBDNXGUBLJCZ9a2Jxy8uwoN6ZKSsw8F7z_Ap2FyJ6YfAxJ_h7Zg_R2Ne2eoJ0FpR_pMHtnFo4p/s320/juniper%202.jpeg" width="256" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: x-small;"><i>Utah Juniper All photos by Charlotte Coles</i></span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p class="Body"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">The Utah Juniper, <i>Juniperus</i> <i>osteosperma</i>, is one of
nature's caretakers. Utah Juniper is a multi-trunked tree or shrub. Roots are
vast and shallow growing in gravelly loam or clay alkaline soil (pH 7.4-8.0).
The Utah <span lang="IT">Juniper </span>grows 0.5
inch per year and may <span lang="DA">live </span>up
to 600 years. They are best suited for elevations of 3000-8000 feet. This
monoecious tree or shrub is able to reproduce in distant areas by wind or
animals. Each berry contains 1-2 seeds and the staminate are small soft cones.<span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><o:p></o:p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirtMLMuyKXuUAjjq4Y097cAzUN5I9KJJwikBc2ILwGmx_C7ltIUz8rRW3vyuoiX2V540U1-0wA7aRjZtAnmHPTP-rmm51y6_rt5fjATTd026XtZaj3c1r0Y8E_0qkE4OpUa9WTlWNVj2PpqOO2Ka77lY1huueGMYPUDNzCK7Ql68q1d-PKIKy1OeBjGo3l/s1280/juniper%201.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="1028" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirtMLMuyKXuUAjjq4Y097cAzUN5I9KJJwikBc2ILwGmx_C7ltIUz8rRW3vyuoiX2V540U1-0wA7aRjZtAnmHPTP-rmm51y6_rt5fjATTd026XtZaj3c1r0Y8E_0qkE4OpUa9WTlWNVj2PpqOO2Ka77lY1huueGMYPUDNzCK7Ql68q1d-PKIKy1OeBjGo3l/s320/juniper%201.jpeg" width="257" /></a></div><br /><p class="Body"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The heartwood is durable cedar used for fence posts. There are
medicinal properties in the foliage. When pummeled, it is used as an analgesic.
The trunk is shredded by wind and insects making the tree appear unfit to
thrive. This additional surface space collects more moisture from the air. The
dead trunk shows how the twigs grow in a winding spiral around the heartwood.</span> </span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4sN_fi9wm5QV_jfqpVePB_9EiFZN3s0gjKJ05NWq3lASM16eiCpHULhXYQYG5Sm0C8HIXWGgh-BhGUXjsWC_ruZUyny8ri1Wagvh1o7-N3tQmd4TkskJXd_gA1lqd5PDTqPaC8RYelxip657PiGdRF0gD1u2Ll0wm6iyjeup7-72ezNQOmtxKuXgQtbVA/s1280/juniper%203.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="1028" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4sN_fi9wm5QV_jfqpVePB_9EiFZN3s0gjKJ05NWq3lASM16eiCpHULhXYQYG5Sm0C8HIXWGgh-BhGUXjsWC_ruZUyny8ri1Wagvh1o7-N3tQmd4TkskJXd_gA1lqd5PDTqPaC8RYelxip657PiGdRF0gD1u2Ll0wm6iyjeup7-72ezNQOmtxKuXgQtbVA/s320/juniper%203.jpeg" width="257" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p class="Body"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">The Utah Juniper has benefited nature and humankind with its
beauty and unique characteristics. In the Black Canyon of Gunnison National
Park lies a forest of Utah Junipers and Pinyon Pine. The Utah Juniper provides
shade and protection for struggling new Pinyon Pines. The Utah Juniper shrubs also
offer protection for animals during storms. The berries serve wintering birds
and wildlife during long winters. Dead trees provide a perch for raptors eyeing
dinner. Their elaborate root systems help eliminate soil erosion - perfect fit
for xeriscape lovers!</span> </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxOypTekkfW9W3yo5UAq74v4pfksfrpDaq8Jz2_2ixAOItqVpSUlOjQ5Cl_We_ZXejt-nlBHG8JK7OVjSpn5VBItPBZjCCnKmXn7xLBiDMiuX_E-EQqxRn4gOVMhRrf1MhEmqfxULHMTmt8eaWKQs7E75bwbXLrRZ-XYGQEwcee7p1H_lhmX99hKbY1-mD/s1280/juniper%200.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="1028" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxOypTekkfW9W3yo5UAq74v4pfksfrpDaq8Jz2_2ixAOItqVpSUlOjQ5Cl_We_ZXejt-nlBHG8JK7OVjSpn5VBItPBZjCCnKmXn7xLBiDMiuX_E-EQqxRn4gOVMhRrf1MhEmqfxULHMTmt8eaWKQs7E75bwbXLrRZ-XYGQEwcee7p1H_lhmX99hKbY1-mD/s320/juniper%200.jpeg" width="257" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: x-small;"><i>Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park <br />with a forest of Utah Junipers and Pinon Pines</i></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p class="Body"><span style="font-size: medium;"><o:p> </o:p><a href="https://www.uvu.edu/crfs/native-plants/juniperus-osteosperma.html" style="font-family: arial;" target="_blank">https://www.uvu.edu/crfs/native-plants/juniperus-osteosperma.html</a></span></p><p class="Body"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="Hyperlink0"><a href="https://planttalk.colostate.edu/topics/water-wise-xeriscape/1907-xeriscape-plant-choices/" target="_blank">https://planttalk.colostate.edu/topics/water-wise-xeriscape/1907-xeriscape-plant-choices/</a></span>
<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="Body"><o:p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">
</span></o:p></p><p class="Body"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="Hyperlink0"><a href="https://extension.colostate.edu/docs/pubs/garden/07229.pdf" target="_blank">https://extension.colostate.edu/docs/pubs/garden/07229.pdf</a></span>
<o:p></o:p></span></p><p><br /></p>Nancy Shepardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16795094471545524992noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8498367531054994251.post-12755181483624826042023-10-12T01:30:00.002-06:002023-10-12T07:48:00.130-06:00The Uncertainty of Insect and Plant Apps by Danielle Alkire<p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4RbvLadlpYxNCZIZM1dqABq0n95vQ-QnS4HBkyo2h5tVAWE4Ri38w7eofcreCHHVVVzGfJxkSM3TsJ6S4N7pCJQeB12DyaY-OvpJOh_3fTWHjIVUqaLyqoooh8-HTMkPH9qcym_3DjqUCkaclOJM6iRJJIo5BPGgbskUNHHoUcnXkYVYipdteZlQJp7nb/s1167/Insect%201.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1167" data-original-width="880" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4RbvLadlpYxNCZIZM1dqABq0n95vQ-QnS4HBkyo2h5tVAWE4Ri38w7eofcreCHHVVVzGfJxkSM3TsJ6S4N7pCJQeB12DyaY-OvpJOh_3fTWHjIVUqaLyqoooh8-HTMkPH9qcym_3DjqUCkaclOJM6iRJJIo5BPGgbskUNHHoUcnXkYVYipdteZlQJp7nb/w301-h400/Insect%201.jpg" width="301" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: x-small;"><i>"Look Mom!" All photos by D. Alkire</i></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: medium;">In my garden, I can expect to have a child excitedly
describing a “weird bug” they just found (if they are not already holding it up
to my face) daily.<span><a name='more'></a></span></span></span></div><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">I love to indulge their curiosity, and it is great to have a
tool in my pocket that can quickly point me in the right direction with random
insect, flower, or mushroom identification.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Sometimes the identification is immediate! There are several phone apps
out there for this purpose.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I have the
most experience with Seek and iNaturalist.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">I like that iNaturalist allows me to help scientists with
collecting data, and I like that using Seek with my iNaturalist account makes
it fun and accessible.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Seek even has
monthly challenges, so I can keep going outside and practice being observant in
nature! <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"> </span></o:p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNuxT_3ADS2D-LnLdJDBj1hAZehXs6JskwJTDPkEGv0lGy0oLV9d55CfTlGpw0dkZqTSvVFuxx26aduh4XYDgqM-ZvGIbgDEGnD9MbBXUgOjQej66voPbyCzbimrTvpi067KSGpnXIsihsEouHxnHCx4g0CAywYq95vJ1PVAYzU6BTbToIY3iFJv-UfLrX/s1629/Insect%202.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1629" data-original-width="754" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNuxT_3ADS2D-LnLdJDBj1hAZehXs6JskwJTDPkEGv0lGy0oLV9d55CfTlGpw0dkZqTSvVFuxx26aduh4XYDgqM-ZvGIbgDEGnD9MbBXUgOjQej66voPbyCzbimrTvpi067KSGpnXIsihsEouHxnHCx4g0CAywYq95vJ1PVAYzU6BTbToIY3iFJv-UfLrX/w296-h640/Insect%202.png" width="296" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>I'm almost done with the equinox<br /> challenge, so close!</i></span></td></tr></tbody></table><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><o:p><span style="font-family: arial;">W</span></o:p><span style="font-family: arial;">henever I find
something I want to identify, I simply open Seek, point my phone camera at it,
and wait for it to attempt to make an identification (it is also possible to have
it identify organisms from phone pictures you previously took.)</span><span style="font-family: arial;"> </span><span style="font-family: arial;">When the program has an identification ready,
you push the button and you can quickly get more information about what you
see and choose if you want to share the observation with iNaturalist.</span><span style="font-family: arial;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: large;"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-size: large; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5MpMtDDhyJlZK0u72_f87fsoWLI5vgKijS7cZ4MAFsXCUo7mbqwYu5-qqhF6Nw1OofuV3FphagOYwpu79HZeKbR78B3qPj6suL3AKKr3YjDDqYmTN1F__jrUMeTLDkCLDQbA1TRnvMfmqjU20b7XI8KDl-K2hXvQfcMLEvcZKY1PhZT8nFVMxtXZ707Zv/s1446/Insect%203.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1446" data-original-width="669" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5MpMtDDhyJlZK0u72_f87fsoWLI5vgKijS7cZ4MAFsXCUo7mbqwYu5-qqhF6Nw1OofuV3FphagOYwpu79HZeKbR78B3qPj6suL3AKKr3YjDDqYmTN1F__jrUMeTLDkCLDQbA1TRnvMfmqjU20b7XI8KDl-K2hXvQfcMLEvcZKY1PhZT8nFVMxtXZ707Zv/w296-h640/Insect%203.png" width="296" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: x-small;"><i>I was curious about the huge bumps<br /> I kept finding in the thistles in my back<br />yard. I observed an actual thistle<br /> gall fly in my yard a couple of years later!</i></span></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"><i><o:p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"></span></o:p></i></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaSDN6UO1gcaAW3Zkln58mznRR0-OSC0ewRzxDcsGKAK9ZbC49fGN3pMTvhQcro_U-ewhV_AeHVI9otFJ38t5121sRU7b_T91KBOiEyf8Cy7nLvpxub7LOpJ5t-dpDPMEqWSrdjvwyEmtvKoHd12YWZc9B0Ht_qDVVDB_bwlNYmW5esJV8wqYCdZkbkZey/s1514/Insect%204.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1514" data-original-width="699" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaSDN6UO1gcaAW3Zkln58mznRR0-OSC0ewRzxDcsGKAK9ZbC49fGN3pMTvhQcro_U-ewhV_AeHVI9otFJ38t5121sRU7b_T91KBOiEyf8Cy7nLvpxub7LOpJ5t-dpDPMEqWSrdjvwyEmtvKoHd12YWZc9B0Ht_qDVVDB_bwlNYmW5esJV8wqYCdZkbkZey/w296-h640/Insect%204.png" width="296" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Have you ever seen one of these while out and about?</i></span></td></tr></tbody></table><i><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></i><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: arial;">There are times when the program can’t quite figure out the
species you are looking at, and I have had a few rare instances where it is hilariously
wrong.</span><span style="font-family: arial;"> </span><span style="font-family: arial;">As someone who doesn’t know most
insect or plant names off the top of my head, the information given is usually
a really helpful starting point for more research, even if it isn’t perfect.</span><span style="font-family: arial;"> </span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"></span></p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinOmDW64GE-nIvNb8J6jh_Avf2xvGhwe9jk_5CxhCbA4izNdSB0lH7c2kAQ9mjDMI9qaXJU8nauy6k8e8BaWcxDCGO530eGy18WKBZWl0XmmjTL4OzrRDPnOgDbUmGlH3gipaMCzO3rf6xWSYwxnKt7UG-FjJrcQhWpAb-BJLlpMK8jSnsxuWNxmG-KQ55/s1563/Insect%206.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1563" data-original-width="740" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinOmDW64GE-nIvNb8J6jh_Avf2xvGhwe9jk_5CxhCbA4izNdSB0lH7c2kAQ9mjDMI9qaXJU8nauy6k8e8BaWcxDCGO530eGy18WKBZWl0XmmjTL4OzrRDPnOgDbUmGlH3gipaMCzO3rf6xWSYwxnKt7UG-FjJrcQhWpAb-BJLlpMK8jSnsxuWNxmG-KQ55/w304-h640/Insect%206.jpg" width="304" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>This is a tree.</i></span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><p style="text-align: left;">No plant or insect identification app is perfect even if they are improving, see: <span style="color: #0000ee;"><u><a href="https://www.newscientist.com/article/2367068-apps-that-identify-plants-can-be-as-little-as-4-per-cent-accurate">https://www.newscientist.com/article/2367068-apps-that-identify-plants-can-be-as-little-as-4-per-cent-accurate</a>/.</u></span> </p><p style="text-align: left;">There have been multiple studies conducted and I certainly don’t want to give the impression that they should be the first and only answer you turn to! See: <span style="color: #0000ee; text-decoration-line: underline;"><a href="https://besjournals.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1002/pan3.10460">https://besjournals.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1002/pan3.10460</a> </span>and one more:<span style="color: #0000ee; text-decoration-line: underline;"> <a href="https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/plant-identification-theres-an-app-for-that-actually-several">https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/plant-identification-theres-an-app-for-that-actually-several</a></span><a href="https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/plant-identification-theres-an-app-for-that-actually-several " target="_blank"> </a> I would not go foraging armed only with Seek
to tell me if a mushroom is edible.
Being able to tell my kid that the lovely purple flower we found on a
hike is likely a palm leaf mistflower is excellent for my phone, though! I was heartened to read that although in some
cases the identifications can be very inaccurate, in one study, across five
popular applications, 85% of images were identified correctly in the top
five suggestions, and 69% were correct with the first suggestion. Not bad!</p><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div>I have 1,389 observations registered as of today, and I’m
sure I’ll have more by the end of the week.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I like the quick breakdown of how many observations I’ve made and
individual species I’ve seen.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’ve seen
545 separate species since I started using iNaturalist in 2015 (this scratches
a similar itch to when I played Pokemon go!)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I also like how once you have registered your observation to
iNaturalist, the community helps to ensure the identification is correct.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhM5c9zEnj6AzRiCId10NlNy_PVPl2EriXNP1q3Jw9Yws_3D88K7k_4Ut7WP0o9V9LWdDLmlX3sthz76dd-8ePFDjjZ6UL4LmNKNuUcMKOQgLcyOnvv11kvWEk4TNc0S2yfJdCoGM8wTJ3M-hBZMD84FwFYSVRFd43MGmNxGU9aLizNeQl-iCnJ621fwMu/s1488/Insect%207.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1488" data-original-width="689" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhM5c9zEnj6AzRiCId10NlNy_PVPl2EriXNP1q3Jw9Yws_3D88K7k_4Ut7WP0o9V9LWdDLmlX3sthz76dd-8ePFDjjZ6UL4LmNKNuUcMKOQgLcyOnvv11kvWEk4TNc0S2yfJdCoGM8wTJ3M-hBZMD84FwFYSVRFd43MGmNxGU9aLizNeQl-iCnJ621fwMu/w296-h640/Insect%207.png" width="296" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>I guess western honey bees like my yard!</i></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: arial;">If you want to try
Seek out for yourself, see <a href="https://www.inaturalist.org/pages/seek_app">https://www.inaturalist.org/pages/seek_app</a></span><span style="font-family: arial;">.</span><span style="font-family: arial;"> </span></span><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: arial;">CSU Extension is another </span><span class="MsoHyperlink" style="font-family: arial;"><a href="https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/insects/">https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/insects/</a></span><span style="font-family: arial;">,</span><span style="font-family: arial;">
</span><span style="font-family: arial;">and </span><span class="MsoHyperlink" style="font-family: arial;"><a href="https://coloradoplants.jeffco.us/plantAbout">https://coloradoplants.jeffco.us/plantAbout</a></span><span style="font-family: arial;">,
if you don’t want to download an app.</span><span style="font-family: arial;"> </span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"></span></p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /><br /></span><p></p><p></p></div>Nancy Shepardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16795094471545524992noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8498367531054994251.post-89676134439942223092023-10-09T01:30:00.002-06:002023-10-09T01:30:00.161-06:00Dill Weed in Your Garden by Jeffrey Blake<p class="xp1" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin03ZnVi3-qiCl0AgKH4Qw2MRuPffE7W8bCpwqmjrwi0gpjPh3gmMWv-qDxPmoWqCd731XLQSHwM3AxP1w2Oz2Pj8spx09itLIPLDKFh7R39NQZe8C2U0-bw_59wzYCpQUBiR5QojE52uV2w8fSOyEFDrUFjlqSNmTf14VlE5b_kXHdSIoO0WolApZVY9p/s640/Dill%202.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin03ZnVi3-qiCl0AgKH4Qw2MRuPffE7W8bCpwqmjrwi0gpjPh3gmMWv-qDxPmoWqCd731XLQSHwM3AxP1w2Oz2Pj8spx09itLIPLDKFh7R39NQZe8C2U0-bw_59wzYCpQUBiR5QojE52uV2w8fSOyEFDrUFjlqSNmTf14VlE5b_kXHdSIoO0WolApZVY9p/s320/Dill%202.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>All photos by Jeffrey Blake<br /><br /></i></span></td></tr></tbody></table></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Dill weed </span><span style="font-family: arial;">(Anethum graveolens) </span><span style="font-family: arial;">is a valuable addition to your garden because of its culinary versatility, its ability to attract beneficial insects and pollinators, its low-maintenance nature, and its potential medicinal uses. Whether you're an avid cook or simply want to enhance your garden's biodiversity and aesthetics, dill is an herb worth considering for your garden space.</span></span></p><p><span></span></p><a name='more'></a><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: large;"><br /></span><p></p><p></p>
<ul style="margin-top: 0in;" type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal" style="font-stretch: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="xs1">Culinary Uses: Dill is a
flavorful herb commonly used in cooking. Its leaves (dill weed) and seeds
are both edible and are known for their distinct, slightly tangy flavor
with hints of anise and lemon. Dill is often used to season dishes such as
pickles, salads, seafood, and sauces.</span><o:p></o:p></span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="font-stretch: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="xs1">Companion Plant: Dill is an
excellent companion plant in the garden. It attracts beneficial insects
like ladybugs and parasitic wasps, which can help control common garden
pests like aphids and caterpillars. Planting dill near vegetables like
tomatoes and cucumbers can potentially improve their health and yield.</span><o:p></o:p></span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="font-stretch: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="xs1">Supports Pollinators: Dill
produces umbrella-like clusters of small yellow flowers that are
attractive to a variety of pollinators, including bees and butterflies.
These pollinators help fertilize other plants in your garden, promoting
fruit and vegetable production.</span><o:p></o:p></span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="font-stretch: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="xs1">Easy to Grow: Dill is
relatively easy to grow, making it suitable for both beginners and
experienced gardeners. It doesn't require particularly rich soil and can
thrive in a variety of growing conditions, as long as it receives adequate
sunlight.</span><o:p></o:p></span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="font-stretch: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="xs1">Self-Seeding: Dill is known for
its self-seeding ability. Once you establish dill in your garden, it often
drops seeds that will sprout in the following growing season without much
effort on your part. This can lead to a consistent supply of fresh dill
year after year.</span><o:p></o:p></span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="font-stretch: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="xs1">Aesthetic Appeal: Dill plants
have delicate, feathery leaves and bright yellow flowers that add an
attractive and ornamental element to your garden. They can contribute to
the overall aesthetics of your landscape.</span><o:p></o:p></span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="font-stretch: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="xs1">Medicinal Uses: In addition to
its culinary uses, dill has been used for its potential medicinal
properties. It has been traditionally used to alleviate digestive issues
and may have mild anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects.</span><o:p></o:p></span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="font-stretch: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="xs1">Versatile in the Kitchen: Dill
can be used in a wide range of dishes, from salads and dressings to soups,
stews, and fish recipes. Its fresh leaves and seeds add a unique and
pleasant flavor to many culinary creations.</span><o:p></o:p></span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="font-stretch: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="xs1">Preservation: You can preserve
dill by drying its leaves or seeds. This allows you to have access to
dill's flavor year-round, even when the plant isn't actively growing in
your garden.</span><o:p></o:p></span></li>
</ul>
<p class="xp2" style="font-stretch: normal; min-height: 26px;"><o:p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"> </span></o:p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC74ip5AwRoS-mG3nu0_Lj4zvym9co8_myM9npAS1xFO-SJIuhw8nhT5cU0vR7DgBS4BImn8gp3oVFUZLsBBvaYGQGDXlJAQ9tzqKFHbaBybScE4VRp029kIHdQQ5EpaVIo1AHiz6Es-8MVW9rjDFBu8FRGD57ju9FrJk6fmI8vAuQVpBIJ3pPFfMhlDi_/s640/Dill%203.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC74ip5AwRoS-mG3nu0_Lj4zvym9co8_myM9npAS1xFO-SJIuhw8nhT5cU0vR7DgBS4BImn8gp3oVFUZLsBBvaYGQGDXlJAQ9tzqKFHbaBybScE4VRp029kIHdQQ5EpaVIo1AHiz6Es-8MVW9rjDFBu8FRGD57ju9FrJk6fmI8vAuQVpBIJ3pPFfMhlDi_/s320/Dill%203.jpg" width="240" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><p></p>
<p class="xp1" style="font-stretch: normal;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="xs1">Water dill regularly to deter
premature flowering, and keep the soil free of weeds. Tall plants may need
support. Apart from that, dill needs little maintenance, although do sow new
batches regularly as plants may only produce leaves for a few weeks in the
height of summer before they start to flower.</span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="xp2" style="font-stretch: normal; min-height: 26px;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Dill can easily start to
overtake other plants if left to its own devices. Though it is not nearly as
invasive as mint, it is a good idea to regularly check your dill patch and weed
out any plants if you notice it spreading.</span></span></p>
<p class="xp2" style="font-stretch: normal; min-height: 26px;"><br /></p>
<p class="xp1" style="font-stretch: normal;"><br /></p>
<p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"> </span></p>Nancy Shepardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16795094471545524992noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8498367531054994251.post-90884995796035510982023-10-05T01:00:00.002-06:002023-10-05T01:00:00.131-06:00Attracting Pollinators with Bee Balm by Jeffrey Blake<p> </p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4yBjHQzqILQB5NnkMhn07xN18EX4ZPqDtEerpqbhOYk78CQQYhIIsmsHY8URV0_K7P-m9DGpybQhNciRntiXKcM5tB3tzXlks5wikm6gJqR8tJrHAGPuzN1ylbQ7X0EBY0p4z1imb8unRqh9eV_NJAUzZ6YU3FP9afspfYZVM7d-LA90S7oLofKExJHjF/s640/blake%202.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4yBjHQzqILQB5NnkMhn07xN18EX4ZPqDtEerpqbhOYk78CQQYhIIsmsHY8URV0_K7P-m9DGpybQhNciRntiXKcM5tB3tzXlks5wikm6gJqR8tJrHAGPuzN1ylbQ7X0EBY0p4z1imb8unRqh9eV_NJAUzZ6YU3FP9afspfYZVM7d-LA90S7oLofKExJHjF/s320/blake%202.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: x-small;"><i>Scarlett Bee Balm <br /><div style="text-align: center;"><i>All photos by Jeffrey Blake</i></div></i></span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><div style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Bee Balm (Monarda spp.), also known as wild bergamot or horsemint, is a popular garden plant that is excellent for attracting pollinators, such as bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. Here are several reasons why Bee Balm is a great choice for attracting these beneficial insects:</span></span></div><p></p><p class="xp1" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><p></p><p class="xp2" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;"><o:p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"> </span></o:p></p>
<ul style="margin-top: 0in;" type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="xs1">Abundant Nectar: Bee Balm
produces an abundance of nectar-rich flowers with tubular shapes, making
it easy for pollinators to access the nectar. The high nectar content
provides a valuable food source for bees and butterflies.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="xs1">Long Blooming Period: Bee Balm
typically has a long blooming period, often from late spring through early
fall, depending on the variety. This extended flowering season ensures a
consistent and reliable food source for pollinators throughout the growing
season.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="xs1">Colorful Blooms: Bee Balm comes
in various vibrant colors, including shades of red, pink, purple, and
white. These bright and colorful blooms are highly attractive to bees,
butterflies, and hummingbirds, helping them locate the flowers easily.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="xs1">Attractive Fragrance: Many Bee
Balm varieties have a pleasant, aromatic fragrance that can be
particularly enticing to pollinators. The scent helps guide them to the
flowers.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="xs1">Tubular Shape: The tubular
shape of Bee Balm flowers is well-suited for certain types of pollinators,
especially hummingbirds and long-tongued bees. These insects can easily
insert their proboscis or beak into the flowers to reach the nectar.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="xs1">Easy Accessibility: The
arrangement of Bee Balm flowers on tall stems with open clusters makes it
easy for pollinators to land and feed. This accessibility encourages
frequent visitation.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="xs1">Adaptability: Bee Balm is
adaptable to various soil types and can thrive in both sunny and partially
shaded areas, making it a versatile choice for many garden environments.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="xs1">Disease Resistance: Bee Balm is
relatively resistant to common diseases and pests, reducing the need for
pesticides that can harm pollinators.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="xs1">Hummingbird Magnet: The tubular
flowers of Bee Balm are especially attractive to hummingbirds. The vibrant
colors and nectar content make Bee Balm a favorite of these flying jewels.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="xs1">Biodiversity Support: By
attracting a diverse range of pollinators, Bee Balm contributes to the
overall health and biodiversity of your garden ecosystem, promoting the
pollination of other plants as well.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></span></li>
</ul>
<p class="xp2" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;"><o:p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"> </span></o:p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxMB0J9kPowEY3XWTdbVqnZLafAMZAvhEKtJGi74WNeOeS9q0yuFNB4L9EUONomdMhpUNQtYFumFM77TmbgseEKtX2BKYMyqAlGwTEHggis-mV2bioAwntPlM4CKNM_rMPsrrOqm26QSHDGTj7AaP-kEtMttqP8LOH7_rjiGqcOoJ5UOhpFqPWnsvpM8DX/s640/blake%203.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="521" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxMB0J9kPowEY3XWTdbVqnZLafAMZAvhEKtJGi74WNeOeS9q0yuFNB4L9EUONomdMhpUNQtYFumFM77TmbgseEKtX2BKYMyqAlGwTEHggis-mV2bioAwntPlM4CKNM_rMPsrrOqm26QSHDGTj7AaP-kEtMttqP8LOH7_rjiGqcOoJ5UOhpFqPWnsvpM8DX/s320/blake%203.jpg" width="261" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><p></p>
<p class="xp1" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="xs1">Bee Balm is an
excellent addition to any garden or landscape for its ability to attract and
support pollinators. Its colorful blooms, abundant nectar, and adaptability
make it a valuable plant for enhancing the beauty and ecological value of your
outdoor space.</span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="xp2" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;"><o:p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"> </span></o:p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfCNBJfSA6EY-kekzYf6qGK67xH_6Kuor8kZYpiCr1T_ClfhB6w2o42JZ1IAmE7A4jGleAHB96-jECpz3m06vmTTRFpVXJ0r05yhTMT0LYkAapqdv8tB1nxN7xNDibvcWOwvoKW0p0cX_KOWPkRlK47jr3GmkUHDTqPEG-Iobx4F1qu2_mK5IRbQeaOuFt/s640/blake%201.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfCNBJfSA6EY-kekzYf6qGK67xH_6Kuor8kZYpiCr1T_ClfhB6w2o42JZ1IAmE7A4jGleAHB96-jECpz3m06vmTTRFpVXJ0r05yhTMT0LYkAapqdv8tB1nxN7xNDibvcWOwvoKW0p0cX_KOWPkRlK47jr3GmkUHDTqPEG-Iobx4F1qu2_mK5IRbQeaOuFt/s320/blake%201.jpg" width="240" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><p></p>
<p class="xp1" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;"><br /></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><o:p><span style="font-family: arial;"> </span></o:p><span style="font-family: arial;">Managing Bee Balm</span></span></p>
<p class="p1" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="s1">“Bee balm propagates by
rhizomes, or runners, that spread under the ground to produce new shoots. As
these shoots multiply, the mother plant in the center will eventually die off
over the course of a couple years. This means your bee balm will eventually be
far from where you planted it. So, if you are asking the question, “is bee balm
invasive,” the answer would be yes, under suitable conditions.”</span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="p2" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;"><o:p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"> </span></o:p></p>
<p class="p1" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="s1">“Bee balm control can be
achieved effectively by dividing bee balm. This can be achieved by digging
between the mother plant and its new shoots, severing the roots connecting
them. Pull up the new shoots and decide if you want to throw them away or begin
a new patch of bee balm elsewhere.”</span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="p2" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;"><o:p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"> </span></o:p></p>
<p class="p1" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="s1">Read more at Gardening Know
How: Is Bee Balm Invasive: Tips On Controlling Monarda Plants </span><span class="s2"><u><span style="color: blue;"><a href="https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/flowers/bee-balm/controlling-bee-balm-plants.htm"><span style="color: blue;">https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/flowers/bee-balm/controlling-bee-balm-plants.htm</span></a></span></u></span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"> </span></o:p></p>Nancy Shepardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16795094471545524992noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8498367531054994251.post-3833424748825448132023-10-02T01:00:00.000-06:002023-10-02T01:00:00.145-06:00How to Attract Mason Bees and Keep Them in Your Garden by Cheryl Kaumeyer Wethey<p> </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm8j0f5N6ALHG8TEug3T7hhvY5JCjz6WjQsGRZZEvbCQGnyEikCZcJSp1AhIIZiYIS6F_eEsZFz8NeWtg-duO7Nt3NeVzq-dQoIxJQdbZ-mruGXQgLSjPIAP2KFTZloNnXL05yhaX2js8b5l1UPw5OMgum9kx5fk3cBVn8-J92CBZ97yfw8fOyTNPS0bCN/s6000/mason%201.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm8j0f5N6ALHG8TEug3T7hhvY5JCjz6WjQsGRZZEvbCQGnyEikCZcJSp1AhIIZiYIS6F_eEsZFz8NeWtg-duO7Nt3NeVzq-dQoIxJQdbZ-mruGXQgLSjPIAP2KFTZloNnXL05yhaX2js8b5l1UPw5OMgum9kx5fk3cBVn8-J92CBZ97yfw8fOyTNPS0bCN/s320/mason%201.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><p align="center" class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: x-small;"><i>Note nesting tubes that are being plugged with mud. <br /></i></span><i style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">All photos by Cheryl Kaumeyer Wethey</span></i></p></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;">Solitary Bees make up 70% of the
bee population in Colorado.</span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;"> </span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;">Included in
this category are Mason Bees, members of </span><i style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;">Osmia
lignaria </i><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;">species.</span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;"> </span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;">The Mason Bee
gets its name from its characteristic behavior of incorporating mud like a
brick mason in building and sealing their nests. </span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span><a name='more'></a></span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;">Mason
bees are one of the earliest solitary bees to emerge in the springtime. </span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;"> </span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;">They are fairly easy to identify.</span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;"> </span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;">The Mason Bee is smaller than a honeybee,
most have a metallic black, blue, or green color to their shell and females
collect pollen on the scopa, or hairs, on their underbellies.</span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;"> </span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;">Sometimes Mason bees are mistaken for the
common fly, but unlike the fly which has one pair of wings Mason Bees have two
pair of wings.</span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;"> </span></span></div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;">Mason Bees emerge in the spring, when
the ambient temperature reaches 50+ degrees.
</span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;">The males emerge first, followed by the females a few days later.</span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;"> </span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;">The lifespan of a male Mason Bee is 2 weeks,
while the female can live 4-6 weeks.</span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;">
</span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;">Mason bees are generally active from March to May.</span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;"> </span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;">Each female is a queen and their job is to
collect pollen and lay eggs.</span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;"> </span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;">Each queen can
lay between 10-15 eggs. Once the females emerge, they begin collecting pollen
and a bit of nectar.</span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;"> </span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;">They mix the pollen
and nectar with a bit of saliva and place it in the back of an available
nesting hole.</span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;"> </span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;">The queen repeats this
process until the ball is about the size of a pea then she lays an egg on top
of the ball.</span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;"> </span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;">The egg and food are sealed
off with a thin wall of mud to protect the larvae when it emerges from pests
and weather.</span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;"> </span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;">This process is repeated 10
to 15 times then the chamber is sealed with a thin wall of mud. When the eggs
hatch, the larvae feed on the pollen and pupate inside the chamber.</span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;"> </span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;">The larvae survive throughout the winter in
this nest, and an adult bee emerges in the spring.</span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;"> </span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;">Mason bees are good pollinators,
but stay close to home, foraging within a 300foot circle, providing there are
enough flowers for the bee to find good pollen.</span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;"> </span></span></p><div class="WordSection1">
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">A single Mason Bee
can pollinate enough cherry blossoms to net 12 pounds of fresh cherries, while
it would take 60 honeybees to do the same Job.
Mason Bees prefer foraging on fruit trees, but are also good pollinators
for early spring flowers in your garden that are in bloom during their 6 to 8
week lifespan. Native bees tend to show
preference for pollinating native plants and can pollinate up to 2,000 blossoms
in a day. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"> </span></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">ATTRACTING AND
KEEPING MASON BEES IN YOUR YARD:<o:p></o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"> In order
to encourage Mason Bees to your yard you need to provide four basic things in
your garden, a nesting place, a source of clean water, mud, and flowers for
food to support their population.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"> <u>NESTING:
</u>Commercial nesting boxes can be purchased or a DIY pattern is available on
the Audubon website <a href="https://rockies.audubon.org/blog/naturalist/how-to-build-a-pollinator-house">https://rockies.audubon.org/blog/naturalist/how-to-build-a-pollinator-house</a>
Nesting holes or tubes need to be cleanable or disposable and should be taken
care of on a yearly basis, as Mason Bees are prone to mites and parasites. Nesting tubes that are 5/16 “ in diameter and
6 “ deep are ideal. Each queen occupies
a nesting hole or tube and may utilize several in a season. When choosing or making a nesting box, try
to avoid leaving a space between the top row of holes and the roof to
discourage wasps or birds from nesting there.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfzVSrBKqPJPcePc4S6sbgHl6vK38YH1AKGOIoNuHUO_Qr2fD6PyOlUJyaOV8zrjhUSgeLP4x2KqCtkGWJPYxDB5PnjRlLYJ-zpSrbt02utadzrCcvTC8S7tmQW7l3_T5LffPhXCU0adbrRMRuCogCQ4WK56P0eEm6sCH4Fke4lXmdQ93mq8l1REDbIvEY/s2992/mason%202.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2992" data-original-width="2000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfzVSrBKqPJPcePc4S6sbgHl6vK38YH1AKGOIoNuHUO_Qr2fD6PyOlUJyaOV8zrjhUSgeLP4x2KqCtkGWJPYxDB5PnjRlLYJ-zpSrbt02utadzrCcvTC8S7tmQW7l3_T5LffPhXCU0adbrRMRuCogCQ4WK56P0eEm6sCH4Fke4lXmdQ93mq8l1REDbIvEY/s320/mason%202.jpg" width="214" /></a></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2xSP8rFM4WFeQkjWltX5TmQVbyHQl7IyWwTMnDFMc4-cTY1Tox3cRxhFP40rrzow48EKJNZ4--BW6bzPzvhBZwBh9T-wWPzO0ylQyWExJHV2NojiNIsm6hCtvexHhhPEZxtgQRTlLBTEOVKL20Sn3WMhqVayKv4ofrZa1fJnCKMGxzIFZdYYlb-0Uhhqf/s2992/mason%203.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2992" data-original-width="2000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2xSP8rFM4WFeQkjWltX5TmQVbyHQl7IyWwTMnDFMc4-cTY1Tox3cRxhFP40rrzow48EKJNZ4--BW6bzPzvhBZwBh9T-wWPzO0ylQyWExJHV2NojiNIsm6hCtvexHhhPEZxtgQRTlLBTEOVKL20Sn3WMhqVayKv4ofrZa1fJnCKMGxzIFZdYYlb-0Uhhqf/s320/mason%203.jpg" width="214" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: x-small;"><i>Examples of Mason Bee houses</i></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p></p><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;">Where
you hang the nesting box is also important.</span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;">
</span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;">It should be hung 6 to 8 feet off the ground.</span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;"> </span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;">A south facing location, out of the wind is
best so that the larvae stay warm in the winter, and under the protection of
the eaves is preferable. <br /></span><u style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;">CLEAN
WATER: </u><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;">Mason Bees benefit from a source of clean water and a watering site
is easy to create.</span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;"> </span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;">A shallow dish filled
with water and half submerged rocks provides them with a place to land and
drink.</span></span></div><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6YIHMeITGBSGj9jYDO2us0LWxeqZ4iwrVMFxT4ylxxR8XbDah5XSr359BQxMRAvGEu-4P4SGex_z-_9Fk3Mk80V5b-ax-lVU_OZqNhjA999wuTH0ftyLUltMzx3Hz8TgbJN5rhk5EN3_22FAsqFtRYN8nU-Ko_ShzKPK6L_m4kDsm_UedMP_U_bCjmYNq/s2992/mason%204.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="2992" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6YIHMeITGBSGj9jYDO2us0LWxeqZ4iwrVMFxT4ylxxR8XbDah5XSr359BQxMRAvGEu-4P4SGex_z-_9Fk3Mk80V5b-ax-lVU_OZqNhjA999wuTH0ftyLUltMzx3Hz8TgbJN5rhk5EN3_22FAsqFtRYN8nU-Ko_ShzKPK6L_m4kDsm_UedMP_U_bCjmYNq/s320/mason%204.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: large; text-indent: 0.5in;"><br /></span><p></p><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><u style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;">MUD:</u><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;">
The female bees need a source of moist mud to create the bricks for their
nests.</span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;"> </span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;">If most of your garden has been
mulched you can provide a small dish of mud near the nesting box.</span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;"> </span><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;">Either the mud in your garden or that in the
dish need to be kept moist during the females lifespan, generally March to May.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: arial; text-indent: 0.5in;"><br /></span></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><u style="font-family: arial;">FLOWERS:
</u><span style="font-family: arial;">Mason Bees depend on flowers that are blooming during their lifespan, which
is in the early spring, generally between March and May.</span><span style="font-family: arial;"> </span><span style="font-family: arial;">Plants for early pollinators include:</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">PASQUE FLOWERS: <i>Pusatilla patens<br /><o:p></o:p></i></span></li><li><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Lewis Flax: <i>Heterotheca villosa<br /><o:p></o:p></i></span></li><li><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Colorado Blue Columbine:<i>Aquilegia coerulea<br /><o:p></o:p></i></span></li><li><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Dandelions: <i>Taraxacum officinale</i></span></li></ul></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><i><br /><o:p></o:p></i></span><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><p class="MsoNormal">There are 946 known native bee species in Colorado and most
are solitary bees. Native bees make up about 70% of the bee population in
Colorado.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p>To learn more about native bees, how they live, why they are
beneficial to your backyard, you might consider getting involved with <b>The Bees Needs, </b>a citizens science
project that focuses on collecting and recording data on native, solitary,
wood-nesting bees and wasps. They are
located in Boulder, Colorado.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: medium;">For more information about attracting Mason Bees:<br /></span></span><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Hunter,Dave and Jill Lightner. Mason Bee Revolution:How the Hardest Working
Bee Can Save The World One Backyard at a Time. Skipstone, 2016</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Mason-Bee-Revolution-Hardest-Backyard/dp/1594859639">https://www.amazon.com/Mason-Bee-Revolution-Hardest-Backyard/dp/1594859639</a><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Mason-Bee-Revolution-Hardest-Backyard/dp/1594859639"><br /></a></span><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><a href="https://beesneeds.colorado.edu">https://beesneeds.colorado.edu</a><a href="https://beesneeds.colorado.edu/"><br /></a></span><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><a href="https://rockies.audubon.org/blog/naturalist/how-to-build-a-pollinator-house">https://rockies.audubon.org/blog/naturalist/how-to-build-a-pollinator-house</a><a href="https://rockies.audubon.org/blog/naturalist/how-to-build-a-pollinator-house"><br /></a></span><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"> </span></div></div><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0.5in;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"></span></p><p class="MsoNormal">
</p><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p>Nancy Shepardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16795094471545524992noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8498367531054994251.post-28718490175972327282023-09-30T01:00:00.007-06:002023-10-12T07:48:26.608-06:00Holiday Gift idea to start now by Vicky Spelman<div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU10GrY2ETC_3w-Ly84HrQFSjJFGqSI8wZK8DCj99szSk1-5ehVr86jffnn-rrWQ-pO9ChSL8eHcwz1bwYua0T1pgJYtbcFmspLrdrOb7K58mVeTt0VQAmye5pUT0CPAU4shChusYBmVjUmOD7udKfeswTeQuCztWOzzQWM2WRSDjByPOvxR7d3Vh-Kv0/s800/001-(2).jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU10GrY2ETC_3w-Ly84HrQFSjJFGqSI8wZK8DCj99szSk1-5ehVr86jffnn-rrWQ-pO9ChSL8eHcwz1bwYua0T1pgJYtbcFmspLrdrOb7K58mVeTt0VQAmye5pUT0CPAU4shChusYBmVjUmOD7udKfeswTeQuCztWOzzQWM2WRSDjByPOvxR7d3Vh-Kv0/w300-h400/001-(2).jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>University of Minnesota Extension</i></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br />While bulbs are available at the nurseries, here is a fun and easy Holiday Gift idea. You can pot up some favorite spring bulbs and create an indoor garden for winter flowering. <span><a name='more'></a></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /><b>When Choosing the Bulbs:</b><br />1.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>consider that different bulbs bloom at different times<br />2.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>bigger is better, so choose good quality, bigger bulbs<br />3.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>make sure they are firm and clear of a mold/mildew<br />4.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>leave the paper-like covering on the bulbs when planting. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /><b>Planting your Bulbs:</b><br />1.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>your pot should be at least 6 inches (or deeper) with drainage holes<br />2.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>fill the clean pot with 1/3 new potting soil<br />3.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>the hairy root end of the bulb goes in the soil with the tip or nose of the bulb pointing upward<br />4.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>gradually add more potting soil around the bulbs – make sure bulbs continue to stand upright – stopping about ¼ to ½ inch from top to leave room for watering</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFso6C8r8z2u7R65yOzTgkU8qngyIDBXEPa7ud4xXSn1CnC3BL92_GACiVfsjdng4D9Ix-3XvzCwn2g-s_00_zzCljQ-evcdsRIHmEkQeDD4n-eiWDxBDg9aMkEgssxxV-7ZAhwO8ePWlw8I4oGWYtnZHa8E2BMcsG42mtQaycKFTl-xExgZwYq_6oH5A/s800/tulip-bulbs-pot.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFso6C8r8z2u7R65yOzTgkU8qngyIDBXEPa7ud4xXSn1CnC3BL92_GACiVfsjdng4D9Ix-3XvzCwn2g-s_00_zzCljQ-evcdsRIHmEkQeDD4n-eiWDxBDg9aMkEgssxxV-7ZAhwO8ePWlw8I4oGWYtnZHa8E2BMcsG42mtQaycKFTl-xExgZwYq_6oH5A/w300-h400/tulip-bulbs-pot.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-family: arial; font-size: small;">University of Minnesota Extension</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><b>Give them the cold treatment:</b><br />1.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>bulbs need 12-13 weeks of cold treatment at 35º to 48ºF<br />2.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>if you place in refrigerator, cover with plastic bags that have some breathing holes<br />3.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>if using cold frames, cover pots with 8-10 inches of soil and then with 8-10 inches of mulch<br />4.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>don’t allow bulbs to freeze</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTT7FKKehB_Y6XqLPhUnwCcmX-Ld5cZ5YhqZgE4hwA_SjmygOJKbdBQMQ-D6lNEd6OaTpPDNxUla2IgoJWUGNINC3_dhfGiwRg8bFru47hnFyfN5wUAxvY4E8Bo1CUp6Is9Z-aL5vuvnuk4ru_kMV2NECZ4tlOp6UcBMUu_wK5BNYZkDAl-gdLpsF6mQo/s293/014-1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="293" data-original-width="220" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTT7FKKehB_Y6XqLPhUnwCcmX-Ld5cZ5YhqZgE4hwA_SjmygOJKbdBQMQ-D6lNEd6OaTpPDNxUla2IgoJWUGNINC3_dhfGiwRg8bFru47hnFyfN5wUAxvY4E8Bo1CUp6Is9Z-aL5vuvnuk4ru_kMV2NECZ4tlOp6UcBMUu_wK5BNYZkDAl-gdLpsF6mQo/w240-h320/014-1.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-family: arial; font-size: small;">University of Minnesota Extension</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><b>How many bulbs:</b><br />1.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>generally, about 6 tulips bulbs, 3 hyacinths, 6 daffodils or 15 crocuses will fit into a 6-inch pot <br /><br />So, if you planted your pot of bulbs October 1st, bring the pots inside right after the Christmas Holiday.<br />1.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>place in sunny window and bulbs should flower in around 3-4 weeks<br />2.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>after the leaves and shoots emerge, move out of direct sunlight and once they start flowering move to a cool location at night to prolong the bloom</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br />For more tips: <a href="https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/growing-bulbs-indoors">https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/growing-bulbs-indoors</a></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8498367531054994251.post-88803299668870452982023-09-28T01:00:00.001-06:002023-09-28T01:00:00.149-06:00Ants and Aphids Have Each Other's Back by Angelica Elliott<p> </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0hhlFm6dIIzVowawW2sE9O9b1tA_trsRabUrP_Mghn8ZYdRQ7tBgElOXlFcxn9HV5EiiOTxbfhI8pQSaxqI7bIJKiEPN5jMXRq2Sd6sTJCCSzsD2D0p58hQINNME_C5tH7Cw6YCIUriEU9Q8XHFznT2aL63bTD0FjVGsUBj3k1Cq1Yxs7dzLVEY2A8l73/s5724/pexels-petr-ganaj-17818753%20(1)%20(002).jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5724" data-original-width="5504" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0hhlFm6dIIzVowawW2sE9O9b1tA_trsRabUrP_Mghn8ZYdRQ7tBgElOXlFcxn9HV5EiiOTxbfhI8pQSaxqI7bIJKiEPN5jMXRq2Sd6sTJCCSzsD2D0p58hQINNME_C5tH7Cw6YCIUriEU9Q8XHFznT2aL63bTD0FjVGsUBj3k1Cq1Yxs7dzLVEY2A8l73/s320/pexels-petr-ganaj-17818753%20(1)%20(002).jpg" width="308" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: x-small;"><i>Photo: Pexels</i></span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 12pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Late last summer, something
strange caught my attention while weeding around a Cosmo plant. I noticed a
black blob on the plant's main stem. As I got closer to inspect, I realized it
was a thick colony of black aphids (family Aphididae), and from my experience,
where there are aphids, there will likely be ants. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 12pt;"><span></span></p><a name='more'></a><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 12.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 12.0pt; margin: 12pt 0in;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">It is no surprise to find ants hanging around with the
aphids. The ants purposely corral the aphids under leaves and keep them out of
the sight of potential predators like lady beetle larvae, lacewings, and more.
Aside from offering the aphids protection, the ants also transport aphids from
plant to plant. In return, the aphids feed the ants, providing enough food for
their colony.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 12pt 0in; text-align: left;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9BOvNXh-Bh7XD43igFu06wuJ1hqhUSwV6zbUg-YHksG-mgCU9U3xJFAvLpbiDSXwR8PHgCyyh8UAw09SMt_GsKBoCKUDJBLPK6RSomg4yYxGhmznnkR8TkDgJ7QU9YWaU4VsuXW9Fx_7s7QiUi0LX6eb2licA4gZVPRNyCKWkK3IRnJuytoe9-bc6u1vE/s1841/Ants%20and%20Aphids%20(002).jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1841" data-original-width="1166" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9BOvNXh-Bh7XD43igFu06wuJ1hqhUSwV6zbUg-YHksG-mgCU9U3xJFAvLpbiDSXwR8PHgCyyh8UAw09SMt_GsKBoCKUDJBLPK6RSomg4yYxGhmznnkR8TkDgJ7QU9YWaU4VsuXW9Fx_7s7QiUi0LX6eb2licA4gZVPRNyCKWkK3IRnJuytoe9-bc6u1vE/s320/Ants%20and%20Aphids%20(002).jpg" width="203" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: x-small;"><i>Photo: Angelica Elliott</i></span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><div><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: medium;">After sucking the sap from plants, the aphids secrete a
sweet honeydew-like substance that ants love to feed on. Any residual honeydew
left behind after the ants and aphids have moved on will result in a black,
sooty mold and fungus. The plant's appearance may also be affected and potentially
carry disease</span></span><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: large;">.</span></div><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 12.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 12.0pt; margin: 12pt 0in;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">The adult female aphids can have offspring without the
need to mate. They mature into adults in about 8-10 days, hence why they
populate so quickly—the more, the merrier for the ants. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 12.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 12.0pt; margin: 12pt 0in;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: large;">Sources:</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 12.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 12.0pt; margin: 12pt 0in;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><a href="https://www.britannica.com/animal/aphid">https://www.britannica.com/animal/aphid</a><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 12.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 12.0pt; margin: 12pt 0in;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7404.html#:~:text=Young%20aphids%20are%20called%20nymphs,of%20foliage%20on%20deciduous%20plants.">https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7404.html#:~:text=Young%20aphids%20are%20called%20nymphs,of%20foliage%20on%20deciduous%20plants.</a></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 12.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 12.0pt; margin: 12pt 0in;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://extension.umd.edu/resource/aphid-parasitoids">https://extension.umd.edu/resource/aphid-parasitoids</a></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 12.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 12.0pt; margin: 12pt 0in;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://www.heartspm.com/farming-aphids-herder-ants-a-k-a-farmer-ants.php">https://www.heartspm.com/farming-aphids-herder-ants-a-k-a-farmer-ants.php</a></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 12.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 12.0pt; margin: 12pt 0in;"><o:p></o:p></p>Nancy Shepardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16795094471545524992noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8498367531054994251.post-70458896118935755122023-09-25T01:00:00.001-06:002023-10-12T07:48:44.585-06:00 Simple Propagation From Cuttings by Jeffrey Blake<div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span style="background-color: white;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizLDz29ywX9Zoc1ZHZ94U78aYr46r-aCT50XHY0Je19sYrGlpZD8zhRu40x5u6Wv7wh3ElAhB12nxxet7KJKz2LZkmhXHgesl8kO6awBzjPefSUmJT4KeCDcvebzoV9fGY3FPgwtKiU5QiEuabqTZDoT2VR4Qq2B8FHmH-2hTs7jFqIEyH9NtZ62vHpHI/s900/dreamstime.com.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizLDz29ywX9Zoc1ZHZ94U78aYr46r-aCT50XHY0Je19sYrGlpZD8zhRu40x5u6Wv7wh3ElAhB12nxxet7KJKz2LZkmhXHgesl8kO6awBzjPefSUmJT4KeCDcvebzoV9fGY3FPgwtKiU5QiEuabqTZDoT2VR4Qq2B8FHmH-2hTs7jFqIEyH9NtZ62vHpHI/w266-h400/dreamstime.com.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Photo: dreamstime.com</span></i></td></tr></tbody></table><br />Last season, a neighbor brought over a basket of herbs and vegetables including some very fresh Rosemary sprigs. Since I like to grow my own herbs, I immediately took a 4-5 inch section of a Rosemary sprig and prepared it to propagate in my garden. Now I have a healthy plant in my raised bed – that I use when cooking. And now this season, I have been looking for opportunities to create a few more Rosemary plants. I am sharing here the steps I took to propagate a cutting from my new plant. You can use these generic steps to propagate almost any plant that doesn't have a woody stem.<span><a name='more'></a></span></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span style="background-color: white;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span style="background-color: white;">1.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Select and cut a sprig from your plant that is about 4-6 inches in length and is in a growth spurt. Ideally, use a very sharp clean blade so as to not harm the mother plant. These young sprigs are ready to propagate and be able to form roots when placed into the ground or a pot. Don't even try to use woody stems – they mostly don't work. <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSC4Fy8rFMgwLMErg740WDrv4isw6mEbnqmqfOefMPLRKJRvfHbaEwuTk8XhwG6BixMFKZIG4koGgDA-r_o1SGdJW2hhO4sCjfARJzG2R_Xtrtcu_MGGqueYfZ7ryVr8R8JXCucJB0IEaZPLc5RSTpTYfyEInGzZGB5zuzors721I0TqSczhVs2hGJgmE/s640/%231.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="481" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSC4Fy8rFMgwLMErg740WDrv4isw6mEbnqmqfOefMPLRKJRvfHbaEwuTk8XhwG6BixMFKZIG4koGgDA-r_o1SGdJW2hhO4sCjfARJzG2R_Xtrtcu_MGGqueYfZ7ryVr8R8JXCucJB0IEaZPLc5RSTpTYfyEInGzZGB5zuzors721I0TqSczhVs2hGJgmE/w241-h320/%231.jpg" width="241" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Photo: by author</i></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: arial;">2.</span><span style="font-family: arial; white-space: pre;"> </span></span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Trim or pull off leaves from the bottom ½ to 2/3 of the sprig. Each of those locations have meristematic tissue which will grow roots after planting. And I usually trim off any stem at the very bottom up to below the first trimmed leave node. </span><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span style="background-color: white;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinsO-SbyJIpWScl0wHuGiSkIn9Moo2wlkIxhFs8HzerUMJYlaSV0qYopvSqWQcogXAFfQCNwSDIfEqZGVTK6fx9Ih_T2oFKKJF3ROWYxo4o5NvEuxnUV_Jxt7eWuBLuxVR3U8G8HfhfAb9HLxcTknSlF-OKJi1sjLUMonvSiXYmGosvOWhTaelZwS5eiM/s1920/%232a.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1920" data-original-width="1440" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinsO-SbyJIpWScl0wHuGiSkIn9Moo2wlkIxhFs8HzerUMJYlaSV0qYopvSqWQcogXAFfQCNwSDIfEqZGVTK6fx9Ih_T2oFKKJF3ROWYxo4o5NvEuxnUV_Jxt7eWuBLuxVR3U8G8HfhfAb9HLxcTknSlF-OKJi1sjLUMonvSiXYmGosvOWhTaelZwS5eiM/w240-h320/%232a.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: small;">Photo: by author</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: arial;">3.</span><span style="font-family: arial; white-space: pre;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: arial;">Next, trim off any flowers or large leaves. I sometimes cut large leaves in half. The key point here is to have energy go into developing root structure and not into producing leaves and flowers. </span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span style="background-color: white;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmggk8Xq72bIIrEUCMGdmjuXFDGOVA1JLVyaeUjzNGAFTPlSoQcU1W5nWDUCASp0wNfxf_RnjBqTeVirp5gfQUxgOs6jcu9325D2WBsTKuDp1oedRX6zqdHzwNo91MaiXiK1P2zeD9zb9ObIgrv8nQt_DpovGAFvCI691oKwcvWkQDYQsMOoIgUv-XbyM/s640/%233.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="481" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmggk8Xq72bIIrEUCMGdmjuXFDGOVA1JLVyaeUjzNGAFTPlSoQcU1W5nWDUCASp0wNfxf_RnjBqTeVirp5gfQUxgOs6jcu9325D2WBsTKuDp1oedRX6zqdHzwNo91MaiXiK1P2zeD9zb9ObIgrv8nQt_DpovGAFvCI691oKwcvWkQDYQsMOoIgUv-XbyM/w241-h320/%233.jpg" width="241" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: small;">Photo: by author</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: arial;">4.</span><span style="font-family: arial; white-space: pre;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: arial;">Prepare your pot using potting soil. In my experience, almost anything can work. The mixture should be loose, well-draining and have plenty of oxygen movement for newly forming roots. Be sure to pre-moisten the soil before inserting your cutting. </span></span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: arial; font-size: large;"> </span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span style="background-color: white;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4JOaJzde8lOibOzGtA-bUzS3Vz1Dn9c4A2LLGvMb50l8efBzqfIdxb2g66ECQhNGq0DJlUpIuLeEFmwqTZSCNEGc_NuW5sgmZBaYqbNKLPqyDkrrWhGwHIfLv4gT6XPL6cztOORtX2KTIraC7FyLw04g-w1wYTF8oJ1lXx6LJy9vFXHDz40XYZDQlDKo/s640/%234a.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="481" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4JOaJzde8lOibOzGtA-bUzS3Vz1Dn9c4A2LLGvMb50l8efBzqfIdxb2g66ECQhNGq0DJlUpIuLeEFmwqTZSCNEGc_NuW5sgmZBaYqbNKLPqyDkrrWhGwHIfLv4gT6XPL6cztOORtX2KTIraC7FyLw04g-w1wYTF8oJ1lXx6LJy9vFXHDz40XYZDQlDKo/w241-h320/%234a.jpg" width="241" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: small;">Photo: by author</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: arial;">5.</span><span style="font-family: arial; white-space: pre;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: arial;">To help the cutting to start developing roots – you can dip the stem into some rooting hormone. This is optional but it often helps. </span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span style="background-color: white;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtarq_Uj4pv_KJ6WkJrlB0MGsAWm6TcYCpmLDPujHpn1sTTUt3bgSLMzU0I_fC_9ndOCUi-YUM2NvL8XcX2wllFQ3G1x-T7cGS4CtxsIq6pVp2o6NAkpcIGhHfDrOFBXgrQrdyG1iwqHQkAaCzqPAfAeGucu2kSZXXPMoAmSnZZEuWiSHek4HuCHe5D28/s640/%235.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="610" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtarq_Uj4pv_KJ6WkJrlB0MGsAWm6TcYCpmLDPujHpn1sTTUt3bgSLMzU0I_fC_9ndOCUi-YUM2NvL8XcX2wllFQ3G1x-T7cGS4CtxsIq6pVp2o6NAkpcIGhHfDrOFBXgrQrdyG1iwqHQkAaCzqPAfAeGucu2kSZXXPMoAmSnZZEuWiSHek4HuCHe5D28/w305-h320/%235.jpg" width="305" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: small;">Photo: by author</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: arial;">6.</span><span style="font-family: arial; white-space: pre;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: arial;">Next, carefully create a relatively deep hole about the size of your finger. Place your cutting in the hole and snug up the soil around the cutting. </span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span style="background-color: white;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHRNpORk6RgRYE0o8GAFP5aqipIVhZRbH6xpPAFsVvNNtgSnx2aykiiMFFsd7P_U4lloKz_jGMtcsD5iwZwp4lVOTVc-FX7GyFXaGggZZxqiKj2wT58zce9FS1nmSw0G2UT3sHO_A7vIpz9fVkS7lQ8V5cnpX2pWcMjG1XSUwNn9Nu-UyzBkaUauZB_VE/s2059/%236.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2059" data-original-width="1920" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHRNpORk6RgRYE0o8GAFP5aqipIVhZRbH6xpPAFsVvNNtgSnx2aykiiMFFsd7P_U4lloKz_jGMtcsD5iwZwp4lVOTVc-FX7GyFXaGggZZxqiKj2wT58zce9FS1nmSw0G2UT3sHO_A7vIpz9fVkS7lQ8V5cnpX2pWcMjG1XSUwNn9Nu-UyzBkaUauZB_VE/w298-h320/%236.jpg" width="298" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: small;">Photo: by author</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: arial;">7.</span><span style="font-family: arial; white-space: pre;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: arial;">Keep your new planting in a indirectly lit area that is not too hot. It’s not ready for direct sun. Some gardeners place a plastic bag over the planting but I have had success without. Check your new plant on a regular basis and ensure that the soil does not dry out. You can check to see if roots are developing by giving the plant a gentle tug. This process can take 2 weeks to a month depending on the plant. </span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span style="background-color: white;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjvUxhlTYXm_-7X-sDXRSv8F2nCmHeal1YPuGZbR62Af3moe6i_GKU1h-I3vwZ66E2vyRH8luqnK1i6wro6iNpyHmwAn5qthBqr0rU5pd_ZnocaZHp2RkfDz068wyzf5QWrLzg6QxILnZmCjk6P80xuLQOemc8BK5Z3mmlYzOyzrLfqb6qd-rN06pPPAw/s1920/%237.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1452" data-original-width="1920" height="242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjvUxhlTYXm_-7X-sDXRSv8F2nCmHeal1YPuGZbR62Af3moe6i_GKU1h-I3vwZ66E2vyRH8luqnK1i6wro6iNpyHmwAn5qthBqr0rU5pd_ZnocaZHp2RkfDz068wyzf5QWrLzg6QxILnZmCjk6P80xuLQOemc8BK5Z3mmlYzOyzrLfqb6qd-rN06pPPAw/w320-h242/%237.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: small;">Photo: by author</i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></span></span></div><div><br /></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8498367531054994251.post-45866201528752912622023-09-21T01:00:00.012-06:002023-09-21T01:00:00.145-06:00Preparing For Winter by Gregory Engel<p><span style="font-family: arial;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-size: large; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw8WKX8cxKGZnWH0oYBsl2DiPLoMXpqEKDLYClF-1X_ZLudYObNOEnFJfAp3xA_da2XRgHpZ8SFrjTza3lh1F1d_gTEmHZP6l-_ufzhKoHW-8r5mbICjxrB18RG6q2zrh4e9Yi3Qd4BJ6jc6Mbe9VMQeFIsHAGs_11Ti9QeBjYq88gYphlAbI2OUbmFXg/s800/pexels-photo-370922.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="545" data-original-width="800" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw8WKX8cxKGZnWH0oYBsl2DiPLoMXpqEKDLYClF-1X_ZLudYObNOEnFJfAp3xA_da2XRgHpZ8SFrjTza3lh1F1d_gTEmHZP6l-_ufzhKoHW-8r5mbICjxrB18RG6q2zrh4e9Yi3Qd4BJ6jc6Mbe9VMQeFIsHAGs_11Ti9QeBjYq88gYphlAbI2OUbmFXg/w400-h272/pexels-photo-370922.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Pexels: Richard Fletcher</span></i></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><span><span style="font-size: medium;">The end of summer is approaching and we're already experiencing cooler days and cooler nights. Flashes of yellow are appearing in the Linden tree outside my home office window and I'm busy harvesting the vegetables. Just as we plan next summer's garden during the winter, perhaps even begin seedlings inside while there is snow on the ground outside, we need to begin to prepare our garden spaces for winter as the harvest winds down and we move into fall.</span><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></span></span><p></p><a name='more'></a><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><b><u>Clear the Space</u></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Any the debris from plants that have displayed signs or symptoms of disease, such as squash plants infected by a powdery mildew fungus or Aspen trees infected with the Marssonina Blight, needs to be removed and disposed of in the garbage rather than the compost bin. The fungus overwinters in plant debris and disposing of the plant material in the garbage can reduce the possibility of an occurrence the following spring and summer.</span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAxfn-X33tEprkJv5kt74Ma2UtcTNeQszSi4QN6YYjZvCTR2ravfjUWfHhZe-GnOAsKHrWyjAnvRpG3O6bSbXF-t56Kzxyqg4YaODQEAgVgooK3gRvzmLkqw_KWtKb7qzNvVJmprwWFqEbmTu6sOUcn1-lvp15eTKozXGKMxoyh8rjKOPaL4cI4cDnoTY/s730/download.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="730" data-original-width="730" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAxfn-X33tEprkJv5kt74Ma2UtcTNeQszSi4QN6YYjZvCTR2ravfjUWfHhZe-GnOAsKHrWyjAnvRpG3O6bSbXF-t56Kzxyqg4YaODQEAgVgooK3gRvzmLkqw_KWtKb7qzNvVJmprwWFqEbmTu6sOUcn1-lvp15eTKozXGKMxoyh8rjKOPaL4cI4cDnoTY/w400-h400/download.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span>Powdery Mildew on winter squash<br />(Utah State University Extension)</span></i></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9GyBAoCzdqUIwkY7SFd_R7vTpC6UtDgaJgiwuSMGZuNRv_y5xSMgNpFnHlNUODq-WJe9xCi0ADE4ro7caeVvNmtBlIAL5HbNTa05rvqD63D68TOrxZtP-A2LdER0bUeZYhC7t9Njh8QXa94J966Ta0bbZms4UtpfrEhW6ldlFR1GKMTS84UqQDG1UMrM/s636/download-1.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="636" data-original-width="623" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9GyBAoCzdqUIwkY7SFd_R7vTpC6UtDgaJgiwuSMGZuNRv_y5xSMgNpFnHlNUODq-WJe9xCi0ADE4ro7caeVvNmtBlIAL5HbNTa05rvqD63D68TOrxZtP-A2LdER0bUeZYhC7t9Njh8QXa94J966Ta0bbZms4UtpfrEhW6ldlFR1GKMTS84UqQDG1UMrM/w391-h400/download-1.png" width="391" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><i>Even though I have the Aspen trees in my yard treated<br />for the Marssonina fungus in the spring, it will still<br />show up on several branches by the end of the summer.<br />Photo: Gregory Engel</i></span></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">In general, plant material that does not show signs of infection can be effectively composted. Since composting is a rich topic in its own right, be sure to do your research to understand the best practices for composting in Colorado. (See CSU Extension Fact Sheet 7.212 - "<a href="https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/yard-garden/composting-yard-waste-7-212/">Composting Yard Waste</a>")</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><b><u>Pruning and Protecting</u></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Trim back perennials to about 2-3 inches above the soil surface. This promotes new growth in the spring. Consult the Colorado Master Gardner GardenNotes #612, "<a href="https://cmg.extension.colostate.edu/Gardennotes/612.pdf">Pruning Cuts</a>" for how and when to prune bushes and trees. A note of caution about lilacs, however, and a lesson I learned the hard way. Lilacs should only be pruned immediately after they're done flowering in the spring. The buds for next year's flowers form right after this year's flowers have finished blooming. Pruning lilacs in the fall removes all the flower buds set to bloom next year!</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Know which of your plants will need to be protected from freezing temperatures and animals. The Aspen trees in my yard, for example, attract deer, elk, and rabbits during the winter. To protect them I wrap the base of the tree up to about 4 feet from ground level or surround each tree with sheep fence. This keeps the elk, in particular, from damaging the main trunk. Although they will still chew on the branches. It's a fair trade, in my opinion.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">If you have roses, hill up soil around the base of roses and apply a protective mulch layer. I also make sure there is a protective layer of mulch over areas of the garden and yard that have flower bulbs or root systems vulnerable to freezing. Mulching will also help control spring weeds.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><b><u>Irrigation</u></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">In Colorado, it's a safe bet that you'll need to winterize, or "blow out," your lawn irrigation system. According to PlantTalk Colorado, the frost line along Colorado's front range is generally three feet. Every irrigation system I've had to maintain was buried between 6 and 12 inches, so there is every possibility of freeze damage water is left in the system.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Drip systems typically just need the water drained from them. Once upon a time, I used to leave the drip lines in my raised beds to be blown out with the rest of the system. I found that this often resulted in damage to the drip line. My current practice is to detach them, drain them, and store them away for the winter before blowing out the entire system.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK2ljvvRJFL0PVhryW_3p1ZvMov_zkI2PxUFiXKjSiQM2u_6JXbvXQ_4XenMoZGSAoBG2xgB4HUGsMn6IOz4ZWvMir4MFi0Q66R8BMnTO6CAkTBHeiZ76Zpr1Z_bUuMNXO5pEseuRB9lboaP3XQNKy91_NtSACQVKDULvOuYqoX8hi79O4tWwrj_z-mlM/s624/download-2.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="624" data-original-width="468" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK2ljvvRJFL0PVhryW_3p1ZvMov_zkI2PxUFiXKjSiQM2u_6JXbvXQ_4XenMoZGSAoBG2xgB4HUGsMn6IOz4ZWvMir4MFi0Q66R8BMnTO6CAkTBHeiZ76Zpr1Z_bUuMNXO5pEseuRB9lboaP3XQNKy91_NtSACQVKDULvOuYqoX8hi79O4tWwrj_z-mlM/w300-h400/download-2.png" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><i>The peas and spinach (except for a few stragglers)<br />have had their season and I still have a tomato plant <br />with fruit to ripen. But once the tomato is done, I'll<br />pull up the drip lines and stow them away for the winter.</i></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><b><u>Tools</u></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">I enjoy woodworking and have many fine tools for working with expensive hardwoods. The tools we use in the garden should receive the same care and respect. Clean and store your garden tools such that they are ready for next year’s garden season. Tighten any loose bolts, sharping any cutting edges, and oil any moving parts.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><b><u>Preparing for Next Spring</u></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">The growing season depletes the nutrients in the soil so it's important to add organic matter to garden beds as part of the winterization process. Adding compost, manures, or other slow-release fertilizers can help to rebuild the soil nutrient profile and prepare your garden for spring planting. Regardless the choice, take care not to over till the soil. Tillage upsets the soil tilth and soil microorganisms, thus making the soil more susceptible to compaction and less suitable for supporting plant growth. Over tillage can also lead to weed seeds being distributed throughout the depth of the tilling and result in existing weed seeds being redistributed to the soil surface each time the soil is tilled.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">One last thing to note about "winterizing" - it's a verb, an action. Winterizing continues throughout the winter season. It's important to hand water any plants in your yard that need winter irrigation. Colorado winters can be very dry and plants often need additional moisture in order to survive the winter. When you do winter water, be sure to do it during a time of day that will give the water a chance to soak into the soil rather than freeze on the surface.</span></div><div><br /></div></div><p><br /></p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8498367531054994251.post-52866039936114118772023-09-19T01:00:00.001-06:002023-09-19T06:08:33.662-06:00Are you ready for next year's hail storms? by Terry Rintala<div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge0mfyzff1ItruZBJd-4LOLNkxcj8T0JtZf81DU7xHJRBY5aCS-PDmyzoOJz1RxNlxCTA5I7uA8buL0YrybNMWXVDtekPnBfsgw9DtSrJSHctbSiIB7NoM6WSfc-JFjtBev9JCV3WDHtQR27oFc6k86F-fjj88PauimE0kSs-gBspFj5zkYKNohGAIl0g/s1920/hail.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="1920" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge0mfyzff1ItruZBJd-4LOLNkxcj8T0JtZf81DU7xHJRBY5aCS-PDmyzoOJz1RxNlxCTA5I7uA8buL0YrybNMWXVDtekPnBfsgw9DtSrJSHctbSiIB7NoM6WSfc-JFjtBev9JCV3WDHtQR27oFc6k86F-fjj88PauimE0kSs-gBspFj5zkYKNohGAIl0g/w320-h240/hail.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>All photos by the author</i></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br />If you have lived in Colorado for any length of time, you most likely have been in or around a hail storm. </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">For gardeners in the state these can be very upsetting and traumatic events. Mainly because they can show up with little to no warning, sometimes weather services will show you that there is the threat of a hail storm during a weather incident (usually heavy rain). But in my experience, its usually 30 mins or less (if you happen to be watching the weather). I know several people that have lost most of their crops due to these storms.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span><a name='more'></a></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">I am a vegetable gardener, with a fairly large garden footprint in a raised bed setup. It is about 14' X 48'. I have had to try to protect my garden vegetables many times at various stages of growth over the decades from these damaging storms.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Many times, it was running out with 20+ large tarps, and bamboo sticks to prop up the tarps, so as not to break the plants from the weight of the tarps. Doing this in a very hurried fashion with short notice, was very stressful and many times not 100% successful. </span></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEdWuS0UEXht7jM_5hiXH0SLJkhXkJbUS61ZzO6yNUIQu3Xfbe9I8PSTV-XD5HMmpfuDZVepoa9h9OdVv3t__Ft2wVsHASkkBkIiXAveBZDAMVn4I2GI9ndgbdNpV-v_tJkz5kSyRgMFVZ5Wqgh0423sAQLkYzRArL9WK1BHQ-qZq55iNgbDPx6PaZ6pM/s1920/thumbnail_20190621_132152.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1920" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEdWuS0UEXht7jM_5hiXH0SLJkhXkJbUS61ZzO6yNUIQu3Xfbe9I8PSTV-XD5HMmpfuDZVepoa9h9OdVv3t__Ft2wVsHASkkBkIiXAveBZDAMVn4I2GI9ndgbdNpV-v_tJkz5kSyRgMFVZ5Wqgh0423sAQLkYzRArL9WK1BHQ-qZq55iNgbDPx6PaZ6pM/w400-h225/thumbnail_20190621_132152.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">After enough of these episodes driving us crazy, I decided to mitigate the problem (although it may have been overkill) but it’s a problem no more. Using a minimal number of materials, and some quality hail cloth, I covered the entire garden. And, also, got some (13%) shade protection along with it. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUYOmrsyz73n96vTyAEyO2J5pAbPlheLsHq7M508LJ9wWoj5mp4gcS0A8jo_uRpfnkMvTafVzzh7_WBdXj9T-R2lVvet90HOofXEKZNmgwhaw8mvcZTz9CksGSBmfcrXNA7Cl1drM8z9Gll0yd6eBb21FEOOXcZqCsMfiYQk21C37gWbQ1Aq7Rl1k9k3s/s1920/thumbnail_20220528_201641.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="1920" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUYOmrsyz73n96vTyAEyO2J5pAbPlheLsHq7M508LJ9wWoj5mp4gcS0A8jo_uRpfnkMvTafVzzh7_WBdXj9T-R2lVvet90HOofXEKZNmgwhaw8mvcZTz9CksGSBmfcrXNA7Cl1drM8z9Gll0yd6eBb21FEOOXcZqCsMfiYQk21C37gWbQ1Aq7Rl1k9k3s/w400-h300/thumbnail_20220528_201641.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><span style="font-family: arial;"><div style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;">This is the product I purchased: </span></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://green-tek.com/anti_hail_screens/" style="font-family: arial;"> Green Tek</a><span style="font-family: arial;"> with Combined Clear Net 13% through a local distributor called: </span><a href="http://www.americanclayworks.com/catalog/" style="font-family: arial;">American Clay Works Catalog</a><span style="font-family: arial;"> Call and ask for it by the 13% hail cloth name. This link has the specifications of the various fabrics available: </span><a href="http://www.americanclayworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/ACWSupply_11_Fabrics.pdf" style="font-family: arial;">Fabric Specifications</a></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">You can also buy Anti-Hail netting here: <a href="https://www.greenhousemegastore.com/products/anti-hail-netting?_pos=1&_psq=hail+netting&_ss=e&_v=1.0">Green House Megastore</a> </span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">and these clips to hold it down: </span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: large;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoB1WbLO84C-j8UNCBxKx9vHLT5A1s24BOuflprCkxi6x9cvNi6-gw6exl3o697b15CwvSGCYhqg-mp4c0yFpXRIsKjcMGwNQNaZDhpQNIiXTbqghvWbnAO6I0ylMrF5oxdMG-S-8wWQfGPKFkgtLPuzxd_ZHS3jKBvRufAV0SnzsgWezOu6dzFPZjLAE/s1122/Screenshot%202023-09-13%20at%2011.51.26%20AM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="248" data-original-width="1122" height="142" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoB1WbLO84C-j8UNCBxKx9vHLT5A1s24BOuflprCkxi6x9cvNi6-gw6exl3o697b15CwvSGCYhqg-mp4c0yFpXRIsKjcMGwNQNaZDhpQNIiXTbqghvWbnAO6I0ylMrF5oxdMG-S-8wWQfGPKFkgtLPuzxd_ZHS3jKBvRufAV0SnzsgWezOu6dzFPZjLAE/w640-h142/Screenshot%202023-09-13%20at%2011.51.26%20AM.png" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2B1z4w_BRyr02uk7-mD62iTuj8YLrtQ2zadjLtypnGJedj5_WludXKJ-ra2l94uFGGY6VEbmx_rKYeKUPXdQcDJqzelPscjsBbnJ2ssdbwWVRXJvEsbqzJd1BlGa97bZwal8E33gAAXgCll3G80dZxOsri4T385SrOaMZiACJybQlLNvduMQaGOCBAoM/s720/sc-clipit_1.webp" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="720" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2B1z4w_BRyr02uk7-mD62iTuj8YLrtQ2zadjLtypnGJedj5_WludXKJ-ra2l94uFGGY6VEbmx_rKYeKUPXdQcDJqzelPscjsBbnJ2ssdbwWVRXJvEsbqzJd1BlGa97bZwal8E33gAAXgCll3G80dZxOsri4T385SrOaMZiACJybQlLNvduMQaGOCBAoM/s320/sc-clipit_1.webp" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">I will say it’s not the least expensive material in the world, but the hail protection and shade benefit are totally worth it. I’ve also noticed that during heavy rainstorms, the mesh size of the cloth tends to diffuse the raindrops so that there is less splash back on the plants below which also helps their health.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Photos from a neighbor's garden that is using the same hail cloth on individual raised garden boxes. They used PVC pipe fashioned as arches over the garden boxes: </span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZyL_zcEw5_HjfYZnYDYBLrrEwQaJlZ2dzVDxMpzfPrEIlfspq_audGEG_5nQmCBbWfQmx7xM9bVzLxI72-MVgzKWCiAMK7s2Cai_Bbn5k_erHmjt6NRFRahv8IVLFyT3ZA63Q-ue9GCpKj5J-5HEqTYp-eTSODdN-eerX-DA4Q3JxtpHloWCsZnpw8Ec/s1920/thumbnail_20170525_154242.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="1920" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZyL_zcEw5_HjfYZnYDYBLrrEwQaJlZ2dzVDxMpzfPrEIlfspq_audGEG_5nQmCBbWfQmx7xM9bVzLxI72-MVgzKWCiAMK7s2Cai_Bbn5k_erHmjt6NRFRahv8IVLFyT3ZA63Q-ue9GCpKj5J-5HEqTYp-eTSODdN-eerX-DA4Q3JxtpHloWCsZnpw8Ec/w400-h300/thumbnail_20170525_154242.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEincEK_LWrLha1pcIpfztCvY6F0UXMHH0cLQXSTNjbw3wjc6lK6A3Tn65vxFpMwn8psCAy-0TWRiuTMmn_UAHPbaTQWlPxB7gWcDCasxwlKUQtstZkV5k2NZZHy3VPPpG_b5QCObIhQIerWpgkpcQpMj-FZrPewydUBT43hzVnKCIOv-BSNkGuxJak4vAg/s1920/thumbnail_20230909_101316.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1920" data-original-width="1440" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEincEK_LWrLha1pcIpfztCvY6F0UXMHH0cLQXSTNjbw3wjc6lK6A3Tn65vxFpMwn8psCAy-0TWRiuTMmn_UAHPbaTQWlPxB7gWcDCasxwlKUQtstZkV5k2NZZHy3VPPpG_b5QCObIhQIerWpgkpcQpMj-FZrPewydUBT43hzVnKCIOv-BSNkGuxJak4vAg/w300-h400/thumbnail_20230909_101316.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><span style="font-family: arial;"><div style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;">I have had my cloth on for 4.5 years now, and I see no real wear and tear from rolling it up in the winter or from the sun.</span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">"Now, when it hails, I drink a tall glass of water and smile."</span></div><div><br /></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8498367531054994251.post-81413675144438932402023-09-14T01:00:00.009-06:002023-09-14T01:00:00.144-06:00Protecting New Plants from the Summer Sun by Sue Parilla<p> </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_9N4DvIDWHtlgqbpGbZHMrmmgex21cW66lH8mBqmevTAKohpO-3EC7abZX9DiQVTEbhWv-xDxqDu8X1K6VcVgfPzHvQ4-KtA_6w2CVKRlUdEPumd2D5QIr5UuGV0p5mqAmFlTTkKPNhVuDcuS2lMXzU4tpXqTwraMxomuzbJApwrSlpGpakSJ4cZSP3Ev/s1431/Sue%201.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1073" data-original-width="1431" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_9N4DvIDWHtlgqbpGbZHMrmmgex21cW66lH8mBqmevTAKohpO-3EC7abZX9DiQVTEbhWv-xDxqDu8X1K6VcVgfPzHvQ4-KtA_6w2CVKRlUdEPumd2D5QIr5UuGV0p5mqAmFlTTkKPNhVuDcuS2lMXzU4tpXqTwraMxomuzbJApwrSlpGpakSJ4cZSP3Ev/s320/Sue%201.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: x-small;"><i>Photo: Sue Parilla</i></span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">I had a few clusters of winter sown <i>Aquilegia caerulea</i>
or Rocky Mountain columbines that I had not yet planted. I knew they were crowded in their current
container and wanted to get them in the ground. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><o:p> </o:p>If you must put a plant in the ground during the hottest
days of the summer, there are some steps you can take to improve the chance
that your new plant will survive this less than ideal time for transplanting. The
hot Colorado sun will roast a newly planted flower or shrub. Giving it a little
shade for its first couple weeks in the ground will give its roots a chance to
settle in to its new digs.</span><span style="font-family: arial;"> </span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span></span></span></o:p></p><a name='more'></a><p></p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">As with all plants, you must first <span class="MsoHyperlink"><a href="https://jeffcogardener.blogspot.com/2019/05/hardening-off-and-transplanting.html">harden
it off</a></span>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You would do this at
any time during the growing season, but you’ll need an extra step in the
planting process when the temperatures are over 90 degrees. During the
hardening off phase, keep your yet-to-be planted plant out of the direct sun.</span></div><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU5xEGk1ELSJ6qjOSYW7EXwuLxCFP7wauLz6VErFqS9Ikui3LOMjmBB5iyP6tMuvgb5OIQYEM837KMtOk-wnmVS85kIRtkyXFjqHymIxVgsjyu3S8oX0CSS3qfnnOlG2sLkzEncTq09jJBBqlxHQnKF8aqThLy50oH9VsB5YY2pb5tQ_8QgoHggWTtX_H3/s1428/Sue%202.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1071" data-original-width="1428" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU5xEGk1ELSJ6qjOSYW7EXwuLxCFP7wauLz6VErFqS9Ikui3LOMjmBB5iyP6tMuvgb5OIQYEM837KMtOk-wnmVS85kIRtkyXFjqHymIxVgsjyu3S8oX0CSS3qfnnOlG2sLkzEncTq09jJBBqlxHQnKF8aqThLy50oH9VsB5YY2pb5tQ_8QgoHggWTtX_H3/s320/Sue%202.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: x-small;"><i>Photo: Sue Parilla</i></span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: arial;">To provide sun protection, I cut a rectangle of chicken wire
into a tall cylinder using the pointy edges of the chicken wire to fold in on itself
to secure its shape. </span><span style="font-family: arial;">I placed a scrap of
cover cloth over the southwest facing side of the cylinder to block the strong
afternoon sun. [Any light colored, light-weight open-weave fabric should do.] I
use short pieces of wire to affix my cloth to the chicken wire.</span><span style="font-family: arial;"> </span><span style="font-family: arial;">You can even use a bent paperclip.<br /></span></span><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Within this wire cylinder, my flowers were getting just a
little morning sun and lots of ventilation.
The chicken wire design also provides protection from rabbits who enjoy
eating tender seedlings. If I’m
concerned about animals eating my plants, I leave the chicken wire cylinder in
place, but remove the shade cloth until the plant is less appealing to the
critters.</span></div><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"> </span></o:p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZtrNb1OECg--Fd3d2A6CWJ6AQHO-dsKREhzqZ0sm2KLKC3shq851dHjuOt3EWXguwVmUILQFL12Bwegfkl2MP2q7wCuccKB2ZI2oQpIZnVvulEWIRiLaxbyifnkClLbU31CdwfmqQwXA-TZ0d1ftDOKaT1qtoHL1wifN7SF1jyBckdEg0wCIp5dXJHjNj/s1280/Sue%203.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZtrNb1OECg--Fd3d2A6CWJ6AQHO-dsKREhzqZ0sm2KLKC3shq851dHjuOt3EWXguwVmUILQFL12Bwegfkl2MP2q7wCuccKB2ZI2oQpIZnVvulEWIRiLaxbyifnkClLbU31CdwfmqQwXA-TZ0d1ftDOKaT1qtoHL1wifN7SF1jyBckdEg0wCIp5dXJHjNj/s320/Sue%203.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: x-small;"><i>Photo credit: Kenton
Seth © 2012 I Need a Cup of Tea blog</i></span><o:p></o:p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr></tbody></table><p class="MsoNormal">
</p><div style="text-align: left;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbsKAxLQbslFOgw-R0fgZOOYSRtrN2UCZM2jKkJ6PYgD8mOtJS77h4JTa51AydIoBN-C9UxYxPKStvTY4-rRXeLtLwL2O_rHRWQC3Xy1Zzc65NNHUG6hzL34B75HqRqiWqriRRvjDHhn-aztWUP6lKWImbM-XtG4PRpxveHQkDnaf8yO3mmZU11Xtx7CqI/s3154/sue%206.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3154" data-original-width="3034" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbsKAxLQbslFOgw-R0fgZOOYSRtrN2UCZM2jKkJ6PYgD8mOtJS77h4JTa51AydIoBN-C9UxYxPKStvTY4-rRXeLtLwL2O_rHRWQC3Xy1Zzc65NNHUG6hzL34B75HqRqiWqriRRvjDHhn-aztWUP6lKWImbM-XtG4PRpxveHQkDnaf8yO3mmZU11Xtx7CqI/s320/sue%206.JPG" width="308" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: x-small;"><i>Photo credit: Kenton Seth © 2012 I Need a Cup of Tea blog</i></span><o:p></o:p></p><br class="Apple-interchange-newline" /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr></tr></tbody></table></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The idea of shading a plant from the sun for its first
couple weeks seems logical, but the idea didn’t occur to me until I read Kenton
Seth’s </span><span class="MsoHyperlink" style="font-family: arial;"><a href="https://kentonjseth.blogspot.com/2012/10/plantingestablishing-drylandxeric-plants.html">blog</a></span><span style="font-family: arial;">
years ago when he was using a “Stireman design” shade cloth for new
plantings. He works in Fruita, so he
knows what it’s like to plant in the full summer sun.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim7Rlp0SodqpaduoBYCs2iIhF3OyJcFBkGQV5ZErXi9c2TdtgWPFFn-faNFeqrh4-p0zHlTr5G4OtWNUUSmZxk2Zwadrw2KNVMbx1ZPZn9PbVFe2V5LRUL6gzQHMlm75Pn48-cHpaLak9iRGxTbjbKMF8koTYE6GUydDMhxOhQ7Zn5vMp6d37N6856YpOK/s1920/sue%205.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1920" data-original-width="1440" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim7Rlp0SodqpaduoBYCs2iIhF3OyJcFBkGQV5ZErXi9c2TdtgWPFFn-faNFeqrh4-p0zHlTr5G4OtWNUUSmZxk2Zwadrw2KNVMbx1ZPZn9PbVFe2V5LRUL6gzQHMlm75Pn48-cHpaLak9iRGxTbjbKMF8koTYE6GUydDMhxOhQ7Zn5vMp6d37N6856YpOK/s320/sue%205.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: x-small;"><i>Photo credit: Kenton Seth © 2012 I Need a Cup of Tea blog</i></span><o:p></o:p></p><br class="Apple-interchange-newline" /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr></tr></tbody></table></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><p class="MsoNormal"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhujr0Y0z_U5_Yc6bl6a1amirJop84dvV1xP9IYDW6--pfUecoXkvBsEtlZCuyiYEUQG8g26f2AVNr_fp1_C7aC9b3a1Zmz8HqjXi85GVFGD3yEeRrwaY35U4msrfKObEMBfbvNnrhOKcn1U_xC8uigjlFFtpyqKPNx-gJ9yeC3VLzHJz9nYdeKP0tg90C5/s1431/Sue%204.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1073" data-original-width="1431" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhujr0Y0z_U5_Yc6bl6a1amirJop84dvV1xP9IYDW6--pfUecoXkvBsEtlZCuyiYEUQG8g26f2AVNr_fp1_C7aC9b3a1Zmz8HqjXi85GVFGD3yEeRrwaY35U4msrfKObEMBfbvNnrhOKcn1U_xC8uigjlFFtpyqKPNx-gJ9yeC3VLzHJz9nYdeKP0tg90C5/s320/Sue%204.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-family: arial; font-size: small;">Photo: Sue Parilla<br /><br /></i></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">I left the shade cloth on the chicken wire for two weeks and
watered the flowers often. After taking
the cloth away, I kept an eye on the plant to see if it showed any signs of
stress and continued to water it daily. You can water less if the temperature
eases or if we get any amount of rain. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: medium;">A month and a half later, the columbines are doing well.</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal">
</p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">It is important to pamper your newly planted plants for at
least a month so they will survive and live a long life in your garden.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"> </span></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"> </span></o:p></p>Nancy Shepardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16795094471545524992noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8498367531054994251.post-26422803502209273622023-09-07T01:00:00.001-06:002023-09-07T01:00:00.144-06:00Composting with Worms: Vermicomposting by Sue Zirbes<p> </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisvGnhN393So32oU6hJS-BgqwAw0BxCnL1ZTdAqm5fnjhVQJyPCQxnrzw3sm4j9mL8fDadjgE1xv9bRpDowFtOkWwkzTN6n9jTZGSJt8IwP86Jf7uGIxjqG-HcRqWCEgMAlyXIlgFjEMxE1SBf2NKaOdCjUJYUDlqQYMzdyO9XX-EJsjkE4vBy2f-oMHtu/s1280/pexels-sippakorn-yamkasikorn-3696170.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="853" data-original-width="1280" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisvGnhN393So32oU6hJS-BgqwAw0BxCnL1ZTdAqm5fnjhVQJyPCQxnrzw3sm4j9mL8fDadjgE1xv9bRpDowFtOkWwkzTN6n9jTZGSJt8IwP86Jf7uGIxjqG-HcRqWCEgMAlyXIlgFjEMxE1SBf2NKaOdCjUJYUDlqQYMzdyO9XX-EJsjkE4vBy2f-oMHtu/s320/pexels-sippakorn-yamkasikorn-3696170.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: x-small;"><i>Photo: Pexels: Sippakorn Yamkasikorn</i></span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p class="Body"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">When I was in Germany, I watched my family deposit their food
waste in special buckets that were collected and used for community
composting. It’s nice to know that food
waste is going back into food production.
One convenient method to do this with your own food waste is to have a
worm bin in your garage. It’s easy to do
and it’s not even smelly. Your worms
will eat the food and process it into worm castings (poop) you can use to
compost your garden. The garage is a
good home for your operation because the worms need to be shielded from the cold.</span></p><p class="Body"><span></span></p><a name='more'></a><p class="Body"><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggwyugV75_IMPMLZWOJ6pXBWbEZOQkYmSsWHppNgE_k2E9PYdKc8ReKXEKbMo-AbDRl80FLq0f-wugsvxl0JHTTWzQeXIY9fQL3VhkhEXuucmfXwg7_iTx5un6agPw5fFY6xjbajOGcYtVek_8NFJqfg5dIIxQBkZNpvPpIhZQGWc9EHOs-v6is6KXBJy6/s1280/worm.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggwyugV75_IMPMLZWOJ6pXBWbEZOQkYmSsWHppNgE_k2E9PYdKc8ReKXEKbMo-AbDRl80FLq0f-wugsvxl0JHTTWzQeXIY9fQL3VhkhEXuucmfXwg7_iTx5un6agPw5fFY6xjbajOGcYtVek_8NFJqfg5dIIxQBkZNpvPpIhZQGWc9EHOs-v6is6KXBJy6/s320/worm.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: x-small;"><i>Photo: Epic Gardening</i></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><p></p><p class="Body"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Having the right healthy worms is the most important aspect of
vermicomposting.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Red wigglers are the
standard worms used for producing compost.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Worms are available on the Internet, and if you have gardening friends,
you might find a local source of worms.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Next you’ll need a container.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You
can find bins specifically designed for vermicomposting on the Internet or you
can easily make your own from a bucket or a plastic or wooden box. You might
have an appropriate container in your home already that you can repurpose.
Oxygen is needed for the whole operation, so drill some holes in homemade
containers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you want to have your
worm bin outside, a commercially built worm bin might be a better choice.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="Body"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">So now your worms need an appropriate living situation provided
by bedding.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Many use the easiest one,
which is torn up newspaper with no color.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Other appropriate bedding choices and they can be mixed, are shredded
brown cardboard, wood chips, straw, coco coir, and peat moss.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Worms need a damp environment, so you will
use unchlorinated water to wet the bedding.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Instructions on the Internet tell you how you can dechlorinate your tap
water.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You want nothing toxic in your
bedding mix to provide a healthy home for your worms.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You should let your bedding sit for several
days before you add worms.</span></p>
<p class="Body"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Numbers of worms and size of containers are all very dependent on
the size of your household and the food wastes available.</span><span style="font-family: arial; mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="font-family: arial;">You want to feed your worms once a day,
amounts of food will depend on the number of worms and their bedding
environment.</span><span style="font-family: arial; mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="font-family: arial;">You want to feed
appropriately so the worm food is constantly being consumed and digested
quickly.</span><span style="font-family: arial; mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="font-family: arial;">This keeps the worm bin from
smelling bad.</span><span style="font-family: arial; mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="font-family: arial;">There are some very good
instructions on the web, including our own Plant Talk
site:</span></span></p><p class="Body"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><a href="https://planttalk.colostate.edu/topics/soils-amendments-composting/1622-composting-worm-composting/">https://planttalk.colostate.edu/topics/soils-amendments-composting/1622-composting-worm-composting/</a></span></p><p class="Body"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">If you are searching the Internet, look for
University and Government sites for good information.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Add “edu” to your search qualifications for example, "vermicomposting site:edu" and
you will tap into other states’ Extension Offices that present scientific
information.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="Body"><o:p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"> </span></o:p></p>
<p class="Body"><o:p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"> </span></o:p></p>
<p class="Body"><o:p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"> </span></o:p></p>Nancy Shepardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16795094471545524992noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8498367531054994251.post-25034591141487554842023-08-31T01:00:00.000-06:002023-08-31T01:00:00.149-06:00Black Swallowtails by Camille Paige<p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIql7kzk-p1VQCFy7_fjomDn9oQXwfXn_1uYTcyrdTNGWcnoQbNkSUxm21PcCiZ6AR2nB2D1omHrSg1799wfltdmxkB7JV1YCnlW5xaJ0FqdonFjximJlMa1fUmEvaMCIk15HKUPU_VcGf2B-wRdP_uLs-yRakPdDyEsibLGKHVoe65BpF-xj-ck_9Z0TE/s3024/Swallowtail%202.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3014" data-original-width="3024" height="319" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIql7kzk-p1VQCFy7_fjomDn9oQXwfXn_1uYTcyrdTNGWcnoQbNkSUxm21PcCiZ6AR2nB2D1omHrSg1799wfltdmxkB7JV1YCnlW5xaJ0FqdonFjximJlMa1fUmEvaMCIk15HKUPU_VcGf2B-wRdP_uLs-yRakPdDyEsibLGKHVoe65BpF-xj-ck_9Z0TE/s320/Swallowtail%202.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: x-small;"><i>Black Swallowtail, Papilio polyxenes. All photos by Camille Paige</i></span></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br />The
black swallowtail, Papilio polyxenes, is a large native CO butterfly with
distinctive adult and larval (caterpillar) forms. The adults are striking
butterflies with yellow spots lining the wings and blue spots and a “tail” on
on the hind wing. Females can be distinguished by their more pronounced blue
scales and smaller yellow spots.<span><a name='more'></a></span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc6p7qhiZsJ3uYIuAwcCupjWeDAIgrWMuzCmNmicOMu5RZj04dshiIVOwNlGowWgSBMxWfQmlrcr6bLFAlMOkSLFcjEW53MLzuVikTPHYvf5fPJQ5HyhykRXqj8JIZ6qqxBbqoG_51nrJ74c01wUMPnIXIldh_gs1R9priuOXHlpDX3gOw3DxjfY_pH6Eu/s3243/Swallowtail%201.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3243" data-original-width="2725" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc6p7qhiZsJ3uYIuAwcCupjWeDAIgrWMuzCmNmicOMu5RZj04dshiIVOwNlGowWgSBMxWfQmlrcr6bLFAlMOkSLFcjEW53MLzuVikTPHYvf5fPJQ5HyhykRXqj8JIZ6qqxBbqoG_51nrJ74c01wUMPnIXIldh_gs1R9priuOXHlpDX3gOw3DxjfY_pH6Eu/s320/Swallowtail%201.jpg" width="269" /></a></div><br /><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">The
adult female lays yellow eggs on plants of the Apiaceae/Umbelliferae family
(also sometimes referred to as the parsley or carrot family.) Eggs develop for up
to 10 days before hatching into a tiny, spiny reddish and black caterpillars with pale “saddlebag” coloration about halfway down its length. </span><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnnBR4NjMLwQiagvVk75ElJNRbnWRrHI_AUq_o3t2G27EaawmhUNCmEHlgoib8hFfonyY3Zsa3kg_4nwfbRJkBZcb-lW5XnODRi4GvjD85mG8hmr_-IRtNrXKK2n41Hibh7fpMFy0RkZlMZuawSKjtWsg2O51Hda8ucXh-603EG-2NQo0CmR3rtARKs86x/s3218/Swallowtail%203.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2427" data-original-width="3218" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnnBR4NjMLwQiagvVk75ElJNRbnWRrHI_AUq_o3t2G27EaawmhUNCmEHlgoib8hFfonyY3Zsa3kg_4nwfbRJkBZcb-lW5XnODRi4GvjD85mG8hmr_-IRtNrXKK2n41Hibh7fpMFy0RkZlMZuawSKjtWsg2O51Hda8ucXh-603EG-2NQo0CmR3rtARKs86x/s320/Swallowtail%203.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">The
caterpillar quickly gains mass as it feeds on the host plant, becoming a
beautiful black, white, and neon green striped specimen. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">As it reaches full
size, it will typically find a sturdy stem, branch, or other vertical scaffold
to support formation of its chrysalis. Depending on the time of the season, the
caterpillar will undergo metamorphosis over the following 10-20 days or
overwinter to emerge in the spring. You can provide overwintering habitat to
this species and many others by waiting to prune back dead growth until mid
spring.</span><o:p></o:p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcPMqOnM8Hd2GrCQ366rkipr8gcx6KyrpIBF6HegvRIqhfPLysPeMbmkWSlCT_uVvMx3zNsRIzkdw103XRTNwOJo_VCP9XjEkyUeH6SmYzmj70fnq8tYs4jg40vaa8aPAFML75vYvRgx1ra6EOgarIwoysS1ZJ-Q1BmcNV1YTCOaAAckec9a-_hCPzzwmX/s1107/Swallowtail%206.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="804" data-original-width="1107" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcPMqOnM8Hd2GrCQ366rkipr8gcx6KyrpIBF6HegvRIqhfPLysPeMbmkWSlCT_uVvMx3zNsRIzkdw103XRTNwOJo_VCP9XjEkyUeH6SmYzmj70fnq8tYs4jg40vaa8aPAFML75vYvRgx1ra6EOgarIwoysS1ZJ-Q1BmcNV1YTCOaAAckec9a-_hCPzzwmX/s320/Swallowtail%206.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">I
plant and allow dill to bloom and reseed throughout my garden to support these
guys and look forward to their visits every year. Additional host plants for
the caterpillars are carrots, parsley, and fennel. Adults feed on nectar from
flowers and some favorites include showy milkweed (Asclepias speciosa), purple
coneflower (Echinacea purpura), and blanket flower (Gaillardia aristata).</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"> </span></o:p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm8SfyA_Z9AcTUYZrMUWGOruNdPgJZvrQwUXHfky6koEJAUl0PFMMV6U4ATlI99vTxA1WxHs0-GOn-hT90XA3IYfzf5sb6sSovWRqD0VIVoxtyqV6-jUj2iMV-7MQffNWv3N3pxXS6AGwsB7j3RisnkDPAkbKs0Lh7jJqQscJzaFDdRRxd1XgcqaB1dJkW/s1244/Swallowtail%207.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1244" data-original-width="1136" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm8SfyA_Z9AcTUYZrMUWGOruNdPgJZvrQwUXHfky6koEJAUl0PFMMV6U4ATlI99vTxA1WxHs0-GOn-hT90XA3IYfzf5sb6sSovWRqD0VIVoxtyqV6-jUj2iMV-7MQffNWv3N3pxXS6AGwsB7j3RisnkDPAkbKs0Lh7jJqQscJzaFDdRRxd1XgcqaB1dJkW/s320/Swallowtail%207.jpg" width="292" /></a></div><br /><p></p>
<span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Fun fact! The caterpillars also glow under backlight.</span>Nancy Shepardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16795094471545524992noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8498367531054994251.post-67886975226259503212023-08-29T01:00:00.000-06:002023-08-29T01:00:00.171-06:00 Cold Frames - Making the Best Choice by Gregory Engel<div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="font-size: large; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKl6eanweF1AhOSYCYjdZ8nv8c8z83jHdS-QKUYn9iPCCAZL9LbzLAe59wbAZ0ar0Oni9iNJolcdAKCxT1pU3wJPnPSJiWo6H0Gavd_9ELyF29sbter3kX3O3_Av2bslG-f2Dsc_RjTsnAaR7kEEVofbencsT1yp23gYViwH28f9Sww4BTzpiLf1n5xGk/s300/Extension%20Umaine.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="225" data-original-width="300" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKl6eanweF1AhOSYCYjdZ8nv8c8z83jHdS-QKUYn9iPCCAZL9LbzLAe59wbAZ0ar0Oni9iNJolcdAKCxT1pU3wJPnPSJiWo6H0Gavd_9ELyF29sbter3kX3O3_Av2bslG-f2Dsc_RjTsnAaR7kEEVofbencsT1yp23gYViwH28f9Sww4BTzpiLf1n5xGk/w320-h240/Extension%20Umaine.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Photo credit: Extension, University of Maine <br /><a href="https://extension.umaine.edu/publications/2752e/">https://extension.umaine.edu/publications/2752e/</a></i></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">If you've gardened in Colorado for more than a few years, you know it's a challenging climate. Conditions vary from the drought days of the early 2000's to the unusually wet and cool spring and summer we've had here in 2023. Add to this a wide variation in elevation zones. More often than not, we wish for an extended growing season. A popular approach to achieving this goal is to set up cold frames structures that extend the growing season by creating a micro-climate favorable to either starting plants earlier in the spring or continue growing them late into fall, perhaps even throughout the winter.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span><a name='more'></a></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-DlDpw3n-VvmLNWK2SLZXOKQmOVf2ny7-lajCkeMhxV-RH_3LPXTDCpWLcsXHIxO1GFkKyY-F-9_TUFJenbeDNVfBprhzg4mtAcmFdyPsdWUTA_7MBFSs4FkEXjyHIxo-7OdGJGj0bjgr30eeDABlJMgqodlUwMM0gnuCpLyHqr0WMt35IxEaYyWvgow/s910/thumbnail_Pasted%20image%2020230816183849-1.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="685" data-original-width="910" height="301" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-DlDpw3n-VvmLNWK2SLZXOKQmOVf2ny7-lajCkeMhxV-RH_3LPXTDCpWLcsXHIxO1GFkKyY-F-9_TUFJenbeDNVfBprhzg4mtAcmFdyPsdWUTA_7MBFSs4FkEXjyHIxo-7OdGJGj0bjgr30eeDABlJMgqodlUwMM0gnuCpLyHqr0WMt35IxEaYyWvgow/w400-h301/thumbnail_Pasted%20image%2020230816183849-1.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: start;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Photo credit: WallpaperFlare.com</i></span></span></td></tr></tbody></table></span><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">This article is meant to compliment the excellent series of cold frame articles by Susan Perry from 2014 (see links below.) I really can't improve on what Susan has written. When you've made the decision to give cold frame gardening a go, she has all the details and troubleshooting laid out for success. This article will focus more on the up front decision part of cold frame gardening. I'll explore several aspects of things to consider when making the determination of whether to venture into this specialized approach to gardening.<span><!--more--></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy1-MbvsKC-oKFKtHeubZmzPPkaYteC0xDUpfa6ld0QrY9dER30kHqdY6wQKPqoS4I8lJ71TavITyLki9DfzSen4GNzAZGwRHraOHLhtC0FNg0BeGFKFDYt7Tf6RCcNOJJpXkrpF6NK2_xTRJN-gJ-N50uPRxTcMi0Z2UMoUTcAlX-hYPAIUdaE1kqwl0/s512/thumbnail_Pasted%20image%2020230816185731-1.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="397" data-original-width="512" height="310" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy1-MbvsKC-oKFKtHeubZmzPPkaYteC0xDUpfa6ld0QrY9dER30kHqdY6wQKPqoS4I8lJ71TavITyLki9DfzSen4GNzAZGwRHraOHLhtC0FNg0BeGFKFDYt7Tf6RCcNOJJpXkrpF6NK2_xTRJN-gJ-N50uPRxTcMi0Z2UMoUTcAlX-hYPAIUdaE1kqwl0/w400-h310/thumbnail_Pasted%20image%2020230816185731-1.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: start;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: x-small;"><i>Photo credit: CSU Extension - G&G Blog, September 2022</i></span></span></td></tr></tbody></table></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">As Susan's series of articles illustrate, cold frame gardening has a unique set of challenges to overcome in order to be successful. Here are a few things to consider when considering cold frame gardening.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /><b>•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Temperature</b> - As the saying goes, if you don't like the weather in Colorado, wait 15 minutes. It'll change. We can experience temperature changes that are both rapid and wide. The design of a cold frame is such that it will trap heat, but under the right conditions they can trap too much heat. It's important to have adequate ventilation. Until experience is gained, it's import to regularly monitor the internal temperature of your cold frame to prevent overheating or excessive cooling. Have a plan in place for extra protection to accommodate late spring and early fall frosts.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /><b>•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Sunlight</b> - Know where you can place your cold frame to maximize the fall and winter sunlight. Do you live in the shadow of a mountain or in a micro-climate that has a higher frequency of cloudy days? The larger context of geography will influence how much control you have over extending your garden's growing season.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /><b>•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Wind </b>- The front range can experience sudden and strong winds as cold air from the mountains drops to the plains, warming as it goes. I've lived in Colorado all my life and I occasionally need a reminder of this fact. After setting up my first cold frame with a nice fitting top, I left attaching the hinges for the next day, thinking the lid was heavy enough to stay in place. Sure enough, a strong wind storm over night picked up the lid and blew it onto a fence post. Lucky, I'd used Plexiglas rather then my original plan to use actual glass.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /><b>•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Elevation</b> - The elevation at which you build out your cold frames can significantly influence the viability of the cold frame micro-climate. What works for me in Golden (6,000 feet) probably won't work as well in Evergreen (7,000+ feet). It will be important to experiment and keep careful notes for what works for you.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /><b>•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Water and Soil </b>- Spring/summer 2023 notwithstanding, Colorado is best characterized as an arid climate. As with temperature, frequent monitoring of your cold frame to be sure it isn't drying out is important.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /><b>•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Pests </b>- The micro-climate you hope to set up for your plants will also be desirable to a variety of pests. Include with your temperature and humidity monitoring regimen frequent checks for insects, rodents, and fungal issues.•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Pests - The micro-climate you hope to set up for your plants will also be desirable to a variety of pests. Include with your temperature and humidity monitoring regimen frequent checks for insects, rodents, and fungal issues.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><u>References</u></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span><a href="https://csuhort.blogspot.com/2014/11/the-cold-frame-corner.html">The Cold Frame Corner</a></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span><a href="https://csuhort.blogspot.com/2014/12/the-cold-frame-corner-part-ii.html">The Cold Frame Corner (Part II)</a></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>C<a href="https://csuhort.blogspot.com/2014/12/cold-frame-corner-part-iv.html">old Frame Corner: Part III</a></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span><a href="https://csuhort.blogspot.com/2015/02/cold-frame-corner-final-installment.html">Cold Frame Corner: Final Installment (Part IV)</a></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span><a href="https://jeffcogardener.blogspot.com/2019/02/how-to-make-cold-frame-for-early-seed.html">How to Make a Cold Frame for Early Seed Start</a></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span><a href="https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/yard-garden/growing-plants-from-seed-7-409/">Growing Plants From Seed – 7.409</a></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span><a href="https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/yard-garden/vegetable-gardening-in-the-mountains-7-248/">Vegetable Gardening in the Mountains – 7.248</a></span></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /><div><br /></div></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><u><div><br /></div></u></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"></div><div style="text-align: left;"></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8498367531054994251.post-55159890235862702232023-08-23T01:00:00.000-06:002023-08-23T01:00:00.149-06:00Rocky Mountain Bee Plant by Megan Snow<p><b style="font-family: arial; font-size: large;"></b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL0HnFMbnsI-0dS7XQo1OFku4MutPHw847ejy2jwYVF5miJbm38M3Dwmyglt01KKSWyWYD-A7u7Dps9YOoWX2uabbiMN-YMfbCJMdHFviDvjdALhVRU_KNesZy8PnSLWVulDXNM55k4lFXdhmmgKSItdC-6WKo05A4NPnCaBsb2aq41SKYMzozx1cN0uE/s2560/thumbnail_IMG_2142.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2560" data-original-width="1920" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL0HnFMbnsI-0dS7XQo1OFku4MutPHw847ejy2jwYVF5miJbm38M3Dwmyglt01KKSWyWYD-A7u7Dps9YOoWX2uabbiMN-YMfbCJMdHFviDvjdALhVRU_KNesZy8PnSLWVulDXNM55k4lFXdhmmgKSItdC-6WKo05A4NPnCaBsb2aq41SKYMzozx1cN0uE/w300-h400/thumbnail_IMG_2142.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo by Author</td></tr></tbody></table><b style="font-family: arial;"><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">Common names:</span></b><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"> Rocky Mountain Bee Plant, Bee spiderflower, Stinking-clover, Toothed spider-flower</span><p></p><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><b>Scientific Name:</b> <i>Cleome serrulata</i> Pursh<br /> <br />I love my Rocky Mountain Bee Plant. The name caught my eye as I was looking for plants that attract pollinators to place next to my veggie beds in hopes of encouraging pollination.<span><a name='more'></a></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">It's a beautiful plant with purple blooms and boy does it attract the bees. It can survive in poor soil conditions and is drought tolerant. It's best to cut the plant down in the fall.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">My Rocky Mountain Bee Plants have grown well over four feet tall and at the height of its bloom, the plant is audibly vibrating from so many bees. I have had several neighbors stop to comment or ask about the plant because they have noticed the sound coming from my garden. My veggie beds have benefited from the plant more than I thought they would. I have seen a significant increase in bee activity since planting the Rocky Mountain Bee Plant and my veggies plants have been producing more than what I know what to do with. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">This plants produces hundreds of seed pods and is a prolific spreader. </span><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: large;">If you want to keep it under control, you can remove the seed pods in late summer. I have had good success with this process and it has not taken over my garden.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbcQSHqonVxkRkt5hjmbAcUbkSRPqZGCj8Om7-amTsgX57s0a6Xxr7rVkpTdDXvIWIV4llGZ2xRXnxukdodLJTJKWGXir77I9OwXvxYlFlW_J6MomqzVvjd1a1DNg5uwzxuG3rEeHe8gnwp8IdumV0R5hr64EnB7aqTgHDJx1pkjA51IT2NBI5IDf32q4/s1920/thumbnail_IMG_2069.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="1920" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbcQSHqonVxkRkt5hjmbAcUbkSRPqZGCj8Om7-amTsgX57s0a6Xxr7rVkpTdDXvIWIV4llGZ2xRXnxukdodLJTJKWGXir77I9OwXvxYlFlW_J6MomqzVvjd1a1DNg5uwzxuG3rEeHe8gnwp8IdumV0R5hr64EnB7aqTgHDJx1pkjA51IT2NBI5IDf32q4/w400-h300/thumbnail_IMG_2069.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Photo by Author</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">This plant may not be for everyone, but I have been enjoying it almost as much as the bees!</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com