Supplies to Make a Decorative Bee Skep with Rope:

-Cardboard

-Hot glue

-Untreated sisal rope

-Scissors

Cut Cardboard to Size

Start making your bee skep by cutting a piece of cardboard in a rectangular shape that is wider than it is tall. The size you cut your cardboard will depend on how big you want your final skep to be. This skep started with a piece of cardboard that was approximately 12 inches wide by 8 inches tall. Use hot glue gun to run a bead of hot glue (keep your fingers clear!) down the ling edge of the cardboard and glue the edges together. Once the hot glue has set, you’ll now have a cardboard tube.

Mold Top of Cardboard

Cut 5-7 slits  around the top of the cardboard tube about 2 inches deep. Once the slits are cut, push them down and let them overlap on each other.

Glue the cardboard flaps down leaving a small opening at the top. This will create a rounded top on your cardboard top.

Create a Rope Loop

Cut a piece of rope about 5-6 inches long and glue the ends In the opening so it makes a loop sticking out of the top.

Begin to Wind the Rope

Once the loop is in place, start wrapping your rope around the outside at the part of the tube you’ve just glued together. That is the top. The large open end will be considered the bottom. Glue it with hot glue it to the cardboard.  Only press the rope down into the hot glue when the hot glue has cooled down to only being warm, not hot (watch those fingers so they don’t get burned!). Squirt a little hot glue out, let it cool for a few moments and then press the rope into it, keeping your fingers clear.

Glue to the Bottom and Secure the End of the Rope

Continue to glue the rope all the way to the open end of the cardboard tube,and trim and glue the final end down.

There you have it! A cute DIY decorative bee skep that adds a bit of naturalist and  vintage style to your summer decorating. A grouping of these in various sized would be so cute on a summer mantle or hanging in a display. If you are looking for more bee projects, check out how to make this sweet  decoupage bee dish.

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Hostas…Of Course

It’s an obvious choice, right? yes, unless you have a ton of deer or rabbits, then you are just planting a never ending wild life salad bar on your dime .Let me start off by saying I love my Hostas. I have A LOT. The thing I love about Hosta’s is they are great filler, blocking out weeds,and mine have come about after 17 years of dividing. They just keep making more. They are the gift that keeps on giving! I am lucky they do well in my Chicago area zone 5a, Midwest area. I have about 30 different varieties. They grow really well here and I don’t have any issues with deer, just Mice and voles eating the roots, but my plants are big enough they normally recover from a few winter nibbles.

Most people don’t know that Hosta will grow in anything from full shade to almost full sun. In full sun though, the leaves fry a little bit, so you have to keep them really well watered in the hot ,hot days of summer. August Moon and Elephant Ear Hosta really do the most. The August Moon is almost 3 feet high by 4 feet wide and every year he just gets bigger.

Ferns

The Midwest has over 90 native ferns, so it’s very easy to pick a variety to mix and match. Everything from the very common landscaping Ostrich fern to the Sensitive fern and Northern Maidenhair fern.

For a non-native fern, the Japanese Painted fern is a popular choice.

Other Shade Plants

Along with Astilbes, Coral Bells have a ton of varieties and some can even tolerate part sun as well. from lovely greens to rich purples, they have delicate towers of flowers that make nice bouquet fillers.

Lungwort

Lungwort loves shade and even dappled shade in a wooded type area. It adds interest to an area where many flowers don’t show color,  divides well and produces pretty pink flowers in the spring.

Also did you know Daylillies also do fine in full shade, even though they love full sun the most? I love to use them between my Hosta and my Coral bells.

Redbuds

Redbuds love dappled shade and are great understory trees. One of my favorite shade trees is my Forest Pansy this was how it looked in 2012

Jump forward to 2026, and it’s amazing how well it does in full shade under a large maple tree. the green Redbuds do just as well.

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Oakleaf Hydrangea

One shrub that does well in part shade is an Oakleaf Hydrangea. You can read more about growing an Oakleaf Hydrangeachere.

Save

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You’ll need just a few more supplies to create the topiary version of this project. For the base moss witches hat, ee this post for the instructions on how to create the Moss Witch’s Hat.

Create Your Witch’s Hat Base

You’ll first want to create your witch’s hat from the earlier directions. Create a hole in the base of the hat before gluing it to the top. I found by carefully cutting a small hole in the base was the best way. It just needs to be big enough to fit the dowel rod through. Some foam may be soft enough to gentle press it in.Add glue to the dowel rod and insert through the hole that was created and about 4 inches into the foam layer. Add extra glue around the base and let dry. When creating your witch’s hat, you can decorate it with dried flowers on the brim now or wait until your topiary is put together.

Create the Base of Your Topiary

Add blocks of floral foam onto your pot of choice, packing them in tightly and making sure they are at least 8 inches deep. Drizzle the top with white craft glue and tuck the Spanish moss inside and over the top filling the top of the container.

Don’t add glue to the end of the dowel opposite of the moss with hat. Just push into the center of the floral foam. making sure it’s atleast 6 inches into the foam. This will allow you to remove it later if you jsut want to use the base on it’s own.

Add Dried Flowers to the Base of the Dowel Rod

Once the glue is dry, start inserting sturdy dried flower stems into the Spanish moss covered foam. A drop of white glue can be added to help hold it in place. Arrange the dried flowers around the base of the dowel filling in the entire area.

Continue adding dried flowers until it looks right. Tip: place longer stems to the inside of the planter and shorter stems toward the outside.

Add Dried Flowers to Your Hat Brim

Use white craft glue and dried flower heads to decorate the brim of the hat if you haven’t already.

Decorate with the Witch’s Hat Dried Flower Topiary

Use your topiary as a centerpiece or focal point for your soft and pretty Halloween and late fall decor. After Halloween carefully remove the dowel rod and use the base as a dried floral arrangement on it’s own!

This would be so pretty grouped together with 3 sizes of arrangements!

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Cover Your Work Surface

The one thing about working with moss is that it can be really messy. Covering your work surface with a drop cloth or tarp will make clean up much easier!

Create Your Witches Hat Cone

Start by using a piece of flexible cardboard or card stock to create a cone for the top of your cone to bring it to a point. You can see a template here to create a cone. Glue the the top of the cone to the bottom.

Cut out the Moss Shape from the Adhesive Sheet Moss

Adhesive moss sheets can be found online or at the craft store. Measuring this can be a little tricky depending on the height and width if your cone. The easiest way is to lay your cone out on one side on the back of the moss and use a black permanent marker to trace along the arc of the cone. Cut out the adhesive moss with old scissors while the backing is still on it. At this time, trace out the circle and cut the round out for the base of the hat. One on the top and the other on the bottom. If you want a slight bend to the top if your witches hat, create that bend after the moss is adhered.

Adhere the Moss Sheet to the Cone

Remove the backing from the moss and carefully roll the cone on the moss sheet on the right side with the adhesive side up. Add the moss to the top and the bottom of the base if the witches hat.

Glue to Two Witch Hat Pieces Together

If you are going to create a topiary, wait on this step as you need to add holes for the dowel rod before gluing them together. If you are just creating a floral witch’s hat topiary, proceed with this step. Use white craft glue to adhere the top and bottom of the moss covered parts together. Let dry. You can cover the seam with a ribbon, or add your dried flowers to create a floral witch’s hat.

Add Your Dried Flowers to the Witches Hat

Use white craft glue to adhere your dried flower heads onto the brim of the witches hat and decorate! If you don’t want moss directly on the surface you are going to display it on, use can use pieces of fabric instead of moss.

See this post to see how to turn the moss witches hat into a topiary.

For more fall inspiration, see how to make a decoupaged floral pumpkin.

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Trace And Cut Out Your Leaf Shapes

Print out our oak leaf template below to the size you would like each leaf, and cut it out of the paper. You can also free form, or trace around real leaves as a template. Use those oak leaf templates to trace sound the shape onto the felt with a pencil or marker. Cut out each felt leaf with scissors. We were able to get 2 leaves out of each piece of 12 x 12 inch felt.

Begin Stitching Down the Center Of The First Leaf

After laying out what order you would like your leaves to be in, using an embroidery needle and doubled up embroidery floss (color of choice, but using a contrasting color makes the stitches pop more), being stitching down the center of the first leaf. We used a simple and basic running stitch. Hand-stitch down the entire length of the first leaf. When you reach the end of the first leaf, add a second leaf so there is some overlap, and stitch over it until the end.

Begin Stitching the Second Leaf Down the Middle of Your Fall Leaf Garland

At this point, we did an embroidery thread change with a different leaf color, making sure we went through first leaf so they were attached in another place. You’ll want to do this at the top of each leaf whether there is a color change or not. If you do a color change or your thread runs out make sure to knot the end of the thread.

Continue Stitching And Joining The Felt Leaves Together

This will begin creating layers of your leaves together. We made ours as long as our faux fireplace mantel which was about 20 leaves. When you add the last leaf, make sure to go back and stitch a loop on the back of the first, middle and last leaf to hang it from the back.

Glue Any Loose Felt Leaf Parts Together with Felt Glue

Using Felt Glue or Hot Glue, use a dot of glue to glue any loose parts together so the rustic garland with hold together when hung up. Once the glue is dry you are ready to hang you fall garland! How great would this also look as a fall wreath like this paper and twig wreath made with paper leaves?

Decorate With Your Fall Felt Garland

We paired our garland with a string garland made of wooden beads for a fun look. It’s such a simple project, but so pretty. You could make a larger one into a table runner if you were feeling ambitious! Over our faux mantel we decorating it with a collection of vintage wooden antelopes and a really cool MCM lithograph. It really has a warm and cozy fall vibe. The pillowcovers are from Amazon. They look pink in the picture but are tan and blue in person.

Little things can be so impactful with decorating for fall! With any project like this make sure to keep it out of reach of kids or pets and away from heat or flame.

Enjoy your fall decorating! If you love this project, make sure to pin it to Pinterest, and if you make it please share it one social media, we would love to see how it looks in your home! Make sure to grab the template below to trace your leaves with! If you love fall crafting make sure to see how to make this air dry clay floral pumpkin.

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Supplies for Painting Hydrangeas

To paint these easy flowers you are going to need :

-8×10 black canvas (or a white canvas painted black)

-Acrylic paint (craft paint is fine) in dark brown, dark hooker’s or Hauser green, medium sap or light Hauser green, lime green, cream and titanium white

– A filbert brush or round brush and that’s it! (Note: I’m using a 4 filbert brush. For a more delicate petal, pick a small paintbrush, or for a larger canvas to keep it in scale, for larger petals use a larger brush. If you want to paint blue hydrangeas, use Cobalt blue, cerulean blue, lavender purple and titanium white paint).

Grab supplies here for how to paint a hydrangea

Determine Flower Painting on Canvas and Underpaint the Flower Head

The first step in painting your hydrangea flower heads is determining how many and placement. I decided on three beautiful clusters of flowers and centered them slightly overlapped on the outside edges. You can pre- sketch your placement with a pencil, or just go for it with this easy process. The first step is to use the dark brown paint as a base color to create a blobby outline and then paint it in.

Paint with Green Paint Next

For my painted hydrangeas below, I decided I wanted to paint white hydrangea flowers with a green undertone. Just pick varying shades of paint that get progressively lighter if you want to paint different colors of hydrangeas. I love gathering a bunch of beautiful hydrangea flower for a vase, so this project gave me the perfect excuse! With the dark green paint, use the brush to make short marks all of the way around the outside of the brown blobs. Make them kind of blobby to avoid hard edges.

Fill the Center of the Flower with Green Paint Lines

Once the outside of the brown blobs are filled with the green paint lines, fill in the center with more random green paint lines.Make sure to still leave some of the brown paint peeking through. Let dry.

Paint Small X Patterns for Flower Petals

For the first stroke on the next layer, use the medium green paint to make an “x” pattern. make small x’s all over the hydrangea flower , overlapping with the dark green but not completely covering it. Also add some single strokes to create some individual petals with each color around the edges and in the middle to add variation

Repeat with the Light Green Color

Once the medium green is dry, repeat the same process with the light lime green color. Make sure to let the paint dry between each layer of your hydrangea petals so they don’t get muddy. Hard paint edges are better with this project.

Layer a Creamy White Paint on Top of the Green Paint

At this point, I wanted to warm my painted hydrangea flower blooms up, so I used a cream paint to repeat the process of painting the petals. If I had wanted to keep them green, I would have stayed in the green color family (same for a blue hydrangea use varying shades of paints in the blue and violet color family ).

Add Highlights with Titanium White

To add highlights to my hydrangea flower head and give them more depth, I then used titanium white paint to make my x-pattern, but I kept them near the top of the flower petals. This will give a slight shadow effect to your flowers.

Paint the Hydrangea Leaves

Once your flowers are painted, you can add you leaves. Hydrangea leaves have serrated edge, so the messier you are with your leaf shape the better. A little trick to painting leaves is to paint a rough leaf shape with thicker paint and then while the paint is still wet, use the other end of your paint brush to scrap leaf lines into the paint. The more imperfect the better! Then you can use those lines to add highlights on the leaves between.

And there you have it! You’ve painted an easy and beautiful cluster of hydrangea flowers! I knew you could!

Now that you’ve created a beautiful painting of a bunch of hydrangeas, check out this post on the easiest way to frame them! Do you love real hydrangeas? See how to make them last and dry them here.

For more painting tutorials, see how to paint an easy sunflower with one brush!

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Supplies for Painting Custom Mugs

-Plain mugs

-Multi-surface or glass/ceramic paint (not the kind to go in a kiln)

-Markers intended for ceramic painting/marking if desired

-Stencils

-Tape or spray adhesive

-Make up sponge or sponge pouncer

-Fine line brush

Prep and Clean the Mug

Wash the mug and remove any dirt and oils so the paint sticks onto the surface. Let dry.

Place the Animal Stencil

Place the stencil on the mug and adhere with tape or stencil adhesive if needed. Place at least two inched down from the top and out of any drinking area that might touch liquid, as the paint may not be food safe. Use a makeup sponge to pounce the multi-surface paint or ceramic paint onto the surface, coating it evenly. A sponge brush can also be used. It’s important to pounce the paint and not brush it so it doesn’t bleed underneath the stencil.

Free Drawing on Mugs

Using a think brush, plain mugs can also be painted on or drawn on with special ceramic markers, just as this faux cross stitch holiday, initial mug.

Remove the Stencil

Remove the stencil while the paint is still wet and clean up any paint or stray marks with a cotton swab. Let dry and cure according to the directions on the paint bottle prior to using or washing. Some paints air dry over an extended amount of time and others need to be baked in an oven to be permanent.

Sometimes You Need to Start Over

If the stencil needs to be redone make sure to remove the paint with soap and water before it dries on the mug. Repeat the steps from the beginning.

You can find fun animal stencils here. My painted DIY animal silhouette mug project was featured in the Idea Notebook of May’s Issue of Country Living! It is really a dream come true. It’s such an easy project too. This is green horse mug didn’t make it in the publication, but all of them turned out so cute, it doesn’t matter. He was one of my favorites next to the pig and sheep mug. I love how fun the colors are. You can see the project mugs in the magazine.There are also a lot of other fun and really do-able projects for your home. My DIY animal stencil mugs are in their ideas section.

Image used with permission from Country Living Magazine

As I mentioned earlier, you can also print out templates for the DIY animal mugs on the webpage or purchase the stencils linked above. The best thing about this project is you could resize the animals and do it on decorative plates, pillows or even t-shirts with the right paint.

*This was posted Via Jennifer Rizzo. com

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To Create this Dried Flower Embellished Project you’ll Need:

-A reproduction copy of your vintage image, don’t use the original copy

-Dried pressed flowers

-Glue Dots

-Cardstock

-Frame 

Create a Reproduction Print of Your Photo or Artwork

Because the dried flowers florals stick partially right to the image, it’s best to use a reproduction print and not an original ( I reproduced my print by taking a photo of it with my phone and sending it to a photo center to print. ).

Pre-Arrange the Dried Flowers

Before adhering the flowers, arrange them on the photo to get the right layout. Once the flowers are placed on the glue dots, it’s hard to remove them without breaking. You can press your own dried flowers of buy them in packets online.

Adhere the Photo and Dried Flowers with Glue Dots

Using the glue dots, stick the image to a piece of cardstock. I centered mine so I could place the dried flowers around it. If you think you want to reuse the photo later, use reusable glue dots instead of permanent ones.

Place and Secure the Flowers

Use tweezers to place the flowers carefully if you find they are hard to handle without breaking.

Layer the Flowers for a Bouquet Look

It seemed to be an easier technique to stick the glue dots down first and then stick the dried flowers on top. Layer the flowers on top of each other and vary the colors and sizes. Once the flowers are pressed down, the custom vintage dried floral art work is ready to frame and display. 

My dried flower embellished photo returned beautifully framed with all of the dried flowers.  It’s really an heirloom.

I really love the end result. I displayed my framed art in the gorgeous wood frame on our fireplace mantel where our family can enjoy it. My kids have already asked who the people are in the photo, and it’s been fun to explain how they are related. I love that the flowers and gorgeous frame make it more special than just putting it in a frame and hanging it on the wall.

To press your own dried flowers for your projects, see this post here.

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Supplies for Creating Batik with Glue

Find  supplies here on Amazon

-T-shirt or fabric

-Paper or scrap cardboard to place between the t-shirt layers

-White kid’s craft glue (washable school glue)

-Stencils

-Paint brush

-Fabric paint or acrylic craft paint and textile medium (we used DecoArt brand)

-A bucket and warm water

-(optional) clean scrubbing sponge to remove the glue

Pre-wash Material of Fabric Items

Whatever material you’ve decided to create on, pre-wash the item to remove any sizing or chemicals that would prevent the fabric paint from sticking, Dry and then lay out on a flat surface. Place either paper or some flat cardboard between the layers of the shirt to prevent the fabric paint from bleeding through to the backside.

Paint the Glue on with the Stencil Design

The glue is going to replace the wax that would typically be used for the resist in batik. Dispense the craft glue into a small dish. Place the stencils onto the shirt and use the brush to paint the glue onto the shirt through the stencils.

We found it works better to paint on thinner coats and paint inward from different directions until the inner stencil area is completely covered. We collaged our stencils by layering them over each other, using a hair dryer to dry the glue between stencils so they wouldn’t smear the previous layer of glue. Once the stencil areas are “painted in” and once the design is finished, let the glue dry completely before moving onto the next step.

Paint Design with Fabric Paint

We used a. warm blue acrylic craft paint and textile medium mix to create a more sun print style of look, but you can also use one step fabric paint. While we stuck with one color, feel free to use as many colors as desired to create the traditional batik-style look. Paint right over the areas covered in dried white craft glue. We also painted a cute scalloped edge around the design to make it a little fancy.

Follow the Fabric Setting Directions

Some fabric paints need to be heat set to be permanent, some just need extra dry time of 24 hours or more. Make sure to follow the directions for which ever paint was used to make it permanent.

If you love the look of sun printing, see how to make faux sun prints (cyanotype printing) with gel plate printing.

Soak the Shirt and Remove the Glue Resist

Once the paint is set, soak the shirt in warm water for a few hours to loosen and dissolve the craft glue. It make take a few soaks and a little scrubbing to remove the glue.

We scraped at it, but a scrubbing sponge or even plastic card or old toothbrush can work. Once all of the glue covered areas are removed, rinse the shirt before laundering. If rinsing over a sink, make sure to place a catcher of some kind in the sink to keep the plasticky pieces from going down the drain, then discard the paint bits into the regular garbage.

Launder The Batik Glue Shirt as Normal

Once the shirt is done and the fabric paint is permanent, the shirt can be laundered as normal and super cute to wear!

Some Other Fun Ways to Use the Batik with Glue Technique

-Use the stencils, but trace them instead of painting them in for a more traditional batik look

-Freehand a design

–Create a banner on canvas fabric

-Trace letters with tracing paper to create text

-Use on sweatshirts, pillows, tea towels and more

Have fun and experiment with this fun and versatile art technique of glue batik

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We are offering this workshop in our art studio in Lisle, so if you want to try it hands on with the materials included, you can find out more about the workshop, registration and our studio here.

Supplies for Kinusaiga Art

Find the supplies on Amazon

-Foam board. We used 1/2 inch pink foam board

-Double Stick tape (or 3M double sided sheet adhesive)

-Fabric Scraps

-Pattern

-Marker

-Craft knife

-Wood clay tool with a flat end or Popsicle stick for kids

-Scissors

-Wood Box (8×8)

-White craft glue

Before Starting Kinusaiga

A few things  to know before starting Kinusaiga. This is a slow craft. You’re meant to work section by section and take your time cutting and adding. This isn’t something to be rushed though. Enjoy all of it! Selecting the fabric, removing the adhesive and placing it. Start with simpler patterns with mostly straight lines. This is fun, relaxing and as your skill level improves, you can move to more complicated patterns. Enjoy the process!

Decide on a Pattern

When starting out using a simpler quilt pattern is a little easier. We used patterns from The Sewing Loft to create our projects. Not only are they great for quilters, but they work well for this project too. They have mostly straight lines and little curves which is great for beginners. Here are a few patterns that would work well

Cut the Foam Board to Size

We decided we wanted to mat ours in an 8 x8 wood frame, but these can be custom cut to any size desired. Using a pre-cut wood box made it easy to just pop it in a glue it to hold it in place. Measure and cut the foam  board to size so it just fits into the wood box frame.

Add the Adhesive Sheet

Cover the foam board with the double-sided adhesive film, leaving the top layer on. Make sure to wrap the edges in the tape sheet as well.

Transfer the Pattern to the Foam Board

There are several ways you can transfer the image to the top of the foam broad covered int he adhesive sheet. This can be done using transfer paper where the image is traced over the top and the carbon paper transfers the design. Or, a pin or other sharp tool can be used to make pin pricks along the pattern lines. This method takes a pretty long time and transfer paper is faster. Darken the lines with a black marker so they are easily seen. We used two designs. One that we hand drew and another we used the Sunburst pattern from The Sewing Loft.

Cut Along the Lines

Use a craft knife to carefully cut along the transferred lines, making sure to leave the top layer of paper on the adhesive. This won’t get removed until section by section when the fabric is ready to be added.

Plan the Fabric Layout

This is a good time to sort through and layout the fabric before cutting, especially when working with scraps.  Once you have your fabric set, it’s time to start creating! Jelly roll quilting fabric packs work well for this because there is a nice variety of fabrics to choose from without having to buy a ton of yardage.

Cut the Fabric for the Kinusaiga Art

This project works one piece at a time. Cut a piece of fabric slightly larger than piece to be worked on. This is important so that the raw edges can be tucked into the foam to hide them. If it’s too small, it won’t cover the section and if it’s too large the fabric will be too bulky to tuck all of it into the foam.

Start Removing the Paper on One Adhesive Section

Pick and cut a piece of fabric for the section to start on. Remove the paper off that adhesive section. The paper should pull away easily and the adhesive should be left on your block.

Press the Fabric onto the Adhesive

Press and smooth the fabric onto that section of the adhesive and then use the clay tool to press the edges into the foam until it’s all tucked in. Move section by section repeating the same steps. The clay tool we used is nice because it has a flat edge and a curved edge which worked well to tuck the edges in.

Tuck the Fabric Edges Around the Outside

Once the pattern is completed, tuck the edges around the outside and wrap to the back, taping down as needed. Don’t worry if they are a little short, they won’t show when popped into the wood box.

Add Glue to the Box to Frame

Add a small amount of glue to the inside of the box towards near where the bottom of the Kinusaiga piece will sit. This will make sure it is glued in the back and doesn’t mess up the front of the fabric.

Hang and enjoy your artwork! It’s fun to plan out the different fabric colors and patterns. I think you’ll find this becomes addictive and fun to make! Come take a workshop with us!

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