Jesse's Carpentry Tips

Clean Saw Blades, Router and Drill Bits, and Jointer Blades

noreply@blogger.com (Jesse's Tips) — Sun, 06 Feb 2011 20:07:00 +0000

Are your blades having a hard time cutting?
It could be that the teeth are dull.
It could be that the teeth are out of alignment.
It could be that the teeth are dirty. WHAT!!!
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What Types of Blades Are There?
The blades that I am talking about are blades that have a cutting edge:
Like
Circular saw blades, band saw blades, jig saw blades, router bits. drill bits, jointer blades, planer blades. This just names a few blades that are on the market. There are specialized blades and bits out there.

You might think that the teeth being dirty won't change how the teeth cut the wood. But believe me it will. Dirty teeth can and will cause burning of the wood, warping of the blade while cutting. Excessive heat buildup on the blades, and the most important of all these is that IT CAN SIGNIFICANTLY SHORTEN THE LIFE OF THE BLADE.

SAFETY TIP: When performing any of the following procedures. ALWAYS i do mean ALWAYS put safety first. This means wearing gloves, eye protection, and in this case a CHEMICAL APRON. Some of these chemicals are very harsh and will eye, nose, and skin irritation. Be sure to always read and follow safety directions on the container label. Always unplug power tools before cleaning.

Pitch Buildup
Different woods contain different amounts of sap. These woods will produce more pitch than others when cutting them. This makes it impossible to say when you will need to clean your blades. But as you start using your new blades in your power tools you will notice that the motor has to work harder to keep the blade turning to keep cutting the wood.

You will also notice the burning of the wood when the blade gets dirty. Once you notice that the blade is burning the wood. It is better to stop and clean the blade. This will save you time and money down the road because it will only get worse as you keep cutting.

Remember: That the more pressure in the cutting of wood can cause mistakes and injury.

When To Clean The Blades
There is no set time for you to clean the blades. This really depends on how much they are used, What type of wood you are cutting, and the age of the blade.

Hand saws, band saws, circular saws, jig saws, just to name a few of the many different types of blades there are. Any blade with teeth will get this resin buildup on them and cause havoc when trying to cut wood. Because with this buildup it will cause you to push harder to get the saw to cut. The more pressure that you have to use to get the blade to cut means less control that you will have on the cutting process.

How To Clean The Blades, and Bits
There are commercially grade cleaners that you can use that either wipe or spray on to the blades. Remember: That a lot of these commercially cleaners have fumes that can be harmful to the breathing and skin.

My Personal Favorites
I like to use just household brands when cleaning my blades and bits.
1. They are common to all areas.
2. They usually don't have fumes that require respirators.
3. They are usually will cause skin irritation so be sure and wear protective clothing, and eye protection.
4. Ajax, Comet, or S.O.S. pads are some of my favorites. They might take a little longer to clean the blade and teeth. But they are usually safe to use in the shop.
5. Also I use a brass cleaning brush that you can usually get in a hardware store. These brushes will get into the corners of where the teeth are joined to the blade. The brass will not rust or wear like normal brushes.

I always try to keep at two blades and bits around. This way if I don't have time to clean the blade, I can just change it out and use the other. But at the end of the day when I am through cutting I always go back and clean the blades or bits that are dirty.

After cleaning the blades and/or bits, I will dry them thoroughly and then wipe them down with a light lubricating oil to keep them from rusting. Then I swipe some , pint, quart, and gallon size freezer bags from the kitchen to put them in until I need them.

Then when i get ready to use them again, I will take them out of the bags, and wipe them down thoroughly before putting them to use.

TIP: I never handle any blades or bits without gloves. I use leather gloves to handle the blades and bits, for two reasons.
1. It is a safety precaution, it's really hard for the blade or bit to cut me with the gloves on.
2. Then there is the oil factor. My skin has oil in it. Which will rub off on to the blades which will make the pitch stick even faster.

Me I like to use ordinary kitchen cleaners that you can find in the stores. One good one is S.O.S. pads these work great getting rid of the pitch, resin, sap, or my popular work gunk that gets on your blades. Get an old toothbrush, or if you want to go high-tech you get an old electric toothbrush that you don't use anymore. This will clean the edges of the tooth. These work just as good as those commercial cleaners and don't cost near as much.

Not to mention cost of some of these cleansers, then you have to battle the fumes they put off while using them. S.O.S. pads or Comet, or Ajax cleansers don't give off fumes so you can pretty much use them anywhere. Some of these commercial cleansers will stain, eat, and otherwise damage surfaces so be very careful when using them.

Then after you get them clean you will need to use a light oil or lubricant on the blades and teeth to keep them from rusting. Cleaning carbide tipped blades or regular hard steel blades are the same.

Keeping your Workplace Clean

noreply@blogger.com (Jesse's Tips) — Fri, 08 Oct 2010 20:22:00 +0000

A clean workplace is a must, especially concerning the air. Letting the dust into the air can and will
cause you breathing problems probably a lot sooner than you think. Breathing in these dust particles
can coat your lungs and you can't get it out. This will lead to you not being able to continue in the
woodworking field.
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A dust collection system is a good way of keeping your workplace clean and on top of the debris that
is sure to appear. But a lot of woodworkers would rather have new tools opposed to buy cleaning
equipment. That's until they start shoveling money out for breathing medication and equipment because they breathed in dust particles. This can lead to dust asthma. Once you have it you can't get rid of it.

Habits to keep you Healthy
Dust will not only cause you breathing problems, but also get into your eyes, ears, nose, throats, and
will cover everything in the shop. It can also cause allergies to the skin, my dad became allergic to
cedar. He had remodeled his house and trimmed it out in cedar. Only to have to tear it out because of
allergies.

This is especially true if you cut a lot of pressure treated wood. This type of wood will last a long
time, but the chemicals can cause you lots of problems. In some cases wood dust can lead to cancer. It is some very nasty stuff and you should take care in the wood shop to protect yourself.

Using shop vacuums can be extremely useful in cleaning the shop. This only helps after the fact. In
other words the dust is already in the air. They can be used for short periods of time. But you will
always have to keep cleaning the filter to keep it operating a peak performance. Another drawback of
using vacuums is that the filters are usually coarse. This means that they won't catch the micro fine
particles that usually does the damage to your eyes, nose, throat, and lungs.

Complete Stationary Dust Systems
You might want to look at a stationary cleaning system to keep those dust particles under control.
There are many to choose from and you should do research on them before making a purchase. This will be easier on your pocketbook and probably get you the best machine for your money.

If you're like me you get different wood magazines that are full of different ads for different kinds
of dust collectors. You will want to be aware of your power concerns for these types of machines. The
more powerful ones will draw more power from your shop. In most cases this will not be a problem. But in others you might have to invest in some electrical work also. That is the case in my shop. My shop was wired back in the early 1950's. So I would have to have some electrical work performed to get my wiring up to date in order to handle the extra power consumption.

But having said that, it is still wise to install one in your shop for health reasons alone. The
stationary dust collection system will also help keep the dust collected as it is created. You can set
up different working areas for routing, sanding, planing, and other areas.

There are so many different types of dust collectors on the market, and me not knowing what type of
shop that you have. There is no use in telling you about one or two. It would be best to talk to
different manufacturers and make up your own mind.

But no matter which one you decide on getting or just using your vacuum to clean with as I do. You
should never do any type of woodworking without a respirator, eye and ear protection. The better the
respirator the better off you will be. If it's nice outdoors then I will move my work outdoors. But I
still use a respirator even outside.

(ALL WAYS PUT SAFETY FIRST IN EVERYTHING YOU DO).

Jesse Auburg Online Marketing Entrepreneur
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Making Wood Working Plans Work for You

noreply@blogger.com (Jesse's Tips) — Sat, 25 Sep 2010 19:43:00 +0000

If you are like me I can't draw a bucket of water. But in order to be a good woodworker you should be able to draw and read plans correctly. This will give you time to actually think about what you are wanting to build. It will save you a lot of time and material to be able to read plans and know what is required in a project.

I know if you are like me you want to get in there and start cutting wood. I love the smell of freshly cut wood. Then to start putting the project together. But if you do then you will make mistakes that can end up costing time and money.

So let's take it one step at a time, and learn to do it right.
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First of all if you can't draw very well, then not to worry. There are a gazillion different plans out there from simple book shelves, to building tool sheds, massive tree houses, and everything in between. Most of these plans cost very little to obtain online. There are a lot of plans that are free also. Depending on what type of plans that you are looking for, it might be better to do a little searching online to see if there are any out there.

There are software programs out there where you can build the project on a computer before you invest money for the materials. Even some of these programs are free. Such as Google Sketchup. It is very versatile and easy to learn. You can use it to build the project and can even put the measurements into the drawing so that you can have your own plans.

If you don't want to go through all that, most all the plans will come with cut lists, and list of materials, and give step by step instructions on how to build the project.

You can even buy the projects in kits. This is where they will send you everything that you need for the project. All you furnish is the tools to build it and the time. But these kits can cost you almost as much as the projects themselves by the time that you pay for shipping and handling. But most usually they are still cheaper than specialty tools that you might need to purchase to complete the same project yourself.

These projects can increase the value of your home, like adding a extra room to your house. By building a tool shed, patio furniture. A gazebo, patio, porch, deck, and many more projects. You can build them for between a third to half price as to buy them. New cabinets in the kitchen. A bathroom makeover is a good way to increase the price of the home. Greenhouses is another project that people are getting into. Build a bar-b-que station for your grill and prep table, drawers for utensils.

Plans will make it possible for an someone with intermediate skills to build complicated projects. Because they take all the guess work out of designing the project. This doesn't detract from the builder at all. Because someone might be able to design projects but be able to build the projects.

If you are new to woodworking, then I would suggest that you start with a simple project. This will give you experience working from plans. Once you have this one built then go to something a little more complicated. This way you can work yourself up to the more elaborate projects. The more complicated the design the more the plans are going to cost. After you have some experience in building these projects you will be able to determine what it takes to go after the big projects. Also remember that the more complicated the plans the more specialty tools you are going to need.

The specialty tools will be an added cost that will have to be factored into the project. For woodworkers just starting out this can be a major investment. Not only do they have to learn about the more complicated plans, but they also have to learn how to use these specialty tools correctly and safely. This can be a large learning curve for some woodworkers.

There is a lot of difference from setting up a 45* degree miter cut, and a 33* compound miter cut. The more complicated the plans usually the more complicated the cuts. The woodworker is going to have to know these different cuts to get the project to look like the design.

Not only working from plans, after awhile you will probably be able to improve on designs of projects. Find ways to do the same things in the project a different way to save time and maybe material. These plans will only improve your woodworking skills.

Besides building some project for yourself or a loved one will mean a lot more than just going and buy the piece from a store. Because it tells them that you were willing to put forth the effort to build it.

No matter what you want to build like I said. If it is a birdhouse, bookshelves, furniture, tables, to a log cabin. There are plans on the internet, some for free and the more complicated plans will increase the cost of the plans. But this cost is usually be minimal compared to having someone design a particular project for you to build.

Always remember to put safety before any project. If you don't have the right tools for the job then you should put the project on hold before trying to complete it. No project is worth losing eyesight, hearing, or limbs.

Jesse Auburg Online Marketing Entrepreneur
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Dangers of Woodworking

noreply@blogger.com (Jesse's Tips) — Sun, 04 Jul 2010 14:24:00 +0000

When people go to school and get started the first thing they are taught is tool and wood safety. There are a lot of risks associated with working with wood and wood products and tools. From cutting a 2x4 to hammering a nail into wood.

There are a lot of people that haven't went to school to learn the basics of woodworking and they have lost fingers, eyes, and hearing by not following safety first.

When using these safety precautions always keep in mind that there are many more dangers when working with tools, wood, stains, and paints.
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A lot of the symptoms will become apparent when first contact has happened. But many of the dangers will come later in life because inhaling the fumes and particles. These can cause severe lung and respiratory problems later in life. Once these get into the lungs they are there for life. There will be no getting rid of them short of a lung transplant.

So keep this in mind when working with any type of wood tools, or wood itself. These tips will give you a chance of becoming a good weekend carpenter, or a full blown professional. Many people have had their careers cut short because of injuries and death. They also have had them cut short because of breathing problems and also becoming allergic to certain types of wood.

One of the most important safety factors to consider is never getting in a hurry to start or finish a project. This will and can cause bodily injury. Not to mention ruining good wood and having to start over again or repair the mistake. This will cause you to lose time and money. (Using a broom to clean up the dust and sanding dust will stir up the particles into the air again. So it's best to use a vacuum with a hepa filter.)

1. Always know what the tool your using is to be used for.

2. Never use a tool for any other use than it was intended.

3. Always wear eye, ear, and breathing protection when in the shop. This will reduce the chance of having exposure to unsafe air and noise pollution. (Micro dust particles can stay suspended in the air for long periods of time.)

4. Never have open flames in the shop for any reason. (Dust particles in the air and on the floor are very explosive.(Especially when handling treated lumber))

5. Always have adequate ventilation in your shop. (Or do the work out side.)

6. Always unplug power tools before working on them. (Like changing blades or bits.)

7. Always make sure pneumatic tools have been emptied of nails, and staples and the air supply is disconnected.

8. Never let cuttings collect on the floor or table.

9. Always sand your wood outside in the open or have a good collector hooked up to collect the dust particles.

10. Never assume that you are indestructible when working with wood, stains, paints or tools.
(Wood fibers that are sanded can be inhaled, get into your eyes, and ears)
(Tool edges are usually made of hardened steel therefore they are very brittle and chip if misused.
(Saw blades especially when they have carbide tips can sling these tips off while running. They are traveling at a high rate of speed.)

11. Never wear loose clothes, jewelery, or have loose fitting safety equipment.
(Saw blades can create a lot of air movement when running. This can potentially suck clothing into them.)

12. Never operate any tools without first reading all the safety information that comes with the tools.

13. Never run your hands over wood. Most woods no matter how smooth they feel can have micro splinters on the comers and face of the

material. These can be very dangerous. Especially if working with treated lumber.

14. Never cut treated lumber in an enclosed building. The fumes and sawdust can be harmful.

15. Safety equipment:
a. Full face shield is the best, at least safety glasses.
b. Either ear plugs or ear mufflers.
c. A good respirator, at least a solids particle mask. (Preferably at least one micron mesh.)
d. A carpenter's apron.
e. A set of good leather gloves.
f. A good set of shoe or boot protection. (Preferably with steel toes.)
g. If in construction a safety hard hat will be required.
h. Vacuum style collector.

We will be covering more safety rules to learn for individual hand and power tools later.

These by far are not all the safety rules that need to be adhered to. But it will be a start to build on. Be safe and keep building for a long time.

Basic of Working With Wood Putty

noreply@blogger.com (Jesse's Tips) — Thu, 17 Jun 2010 03:00:00 +0000

If you are novice and you want to work with different types of wood. Chances are that you are going to have use wood putty (filler) at some time. Most people who have worked with wood for long time have found out that wood putty can be a big help in certain situations.

But often novice woodworkers try to use it and the project turns out less than appealing. As with anything you need to learn the basics of using wood putty as with anything to get the best results.
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They either used the product wrong or used the wrong product for the application. Or even both could have been done. There are two different types of wood putty or filler. There is a solvent based and water based wood putty. On some jobs they can be used interchangably but on some projects the woodworker will have to choose which one to use.

The water based wood putty is probably the easier of the two to use. This is because the drying times are usually longer than with solvent based wood putties. But mainly you will choose one over the other usually the one that works best for you.

There is a nitrocellulose-base putty and it dries fast, and you will need acetone or thinner to clean it up. People usually don't like to use it much because of fumes. You will need to work with putty in a well ventilated area. Absolutely no flames near the work. If this dries before your done working with it then you will have to sand it down and start again.

The other is a gypsum-based putty and it can come in two forms. One is a powder and you mix to the consitancy of pancake batter. It is usually easy to clean with just plain water. If you let it dry then you will need to sand it down and be sure to wear a mask and eye protection because of the dust.

The second form of water-based wood putty comes in small batches in plastic containers. This has to be closed at all times. If air gets in it will dry then you will have to follow the directions on the container to remix if possible.

Before you start using the putty you must clean the wood where it is to be applied. Make sure that all dust and foreign matter is removed. This will unsure that a good bond between the putty and wood will take place.

Also once you have finished puttying the wood, do not bend it or put it under stress. Wood putty is very brittle when dry. It will break out very easily and then you will have to start over again.

Also when you have a large area or deep damage to putty. Lay the putty in layers. This will ensure the putty dries thoroughly an even. Lots of people putty the whole area at once then let it dry the appropriate time. But when they go to work with it. They find that the putty is still wet underneath.

When you sand the wood and filler or putty you will sand it just like wood. Now the putty will sand easier than wood and will fill up the sandpaper faster. I will not sand the whole area of putty at one time. I have found when you go back to the wood it will clean the sandpaper.

You can get putty in different colors, or if you want to you can get stains and stain the wood filler before you use it to blend into the wood. Normally wood filler is a yellow color and will dry to this color. It's great for yellow and white pine. Because it doesn't show up as bad. But if you are planning to stain this type of wood you will need to mix the stain into the putty first. After it dries it will not stain.

To mix stain into the putty you will want to use a piece of scrap wood to get the putty the color that you want before you use it on your project. Most of the time when wood putty is used the project is going to be painted. This eliminates the need to mix the stain into the putty.

A good practice to get in is to ask your local retailer where you buy your wood from to find out what putties are the best selling and what kinds people prefer. Then as you use it then you can make up your own mind as to which one you like the best.

A Tools List for Homeowners

noreply@blogger.com (Jesse's Tips) — Fri, 14 May 2010 20:58:00 +0000

Whether you're a beginner or a master carpenter. You should have some tools at the home for projects that are going to crop up when you own your own home.

This includes, shutting off the water, changing faucet valves, fixing loose fixtures, removing faceplates on electrical plugins, and wall switches for painting, or fixing water leaks under the sinks, tightening screws on cabinet handles, drawer handles, and such. When you are a homeowner, then you become responsible for all the repairs.
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So here's my list of tools for homeowners.
You don't have to buy all these tools at once, you can pick these tools as you need them, because some of these tools can be very expensive.

Tools: You will need one large tool box, metal or wooden that you can lock.
Have a 16 ft. tape measure. (A yard stick works good on a lot of jobs).
Have a 16 oz. claw hammer. With either a wooden or metal shank.
Have a cat's paw, nail puller.
Have at least three sizes of flathead screwdrivers, a no.1 head, a no.2 head (the most common) and a no.3 head
Have at least three sizes of phillipshead screwdrivers, also no.1, no.2 (most common), and a no.3 head
(You can purchase a combination screwdriver, it will have multiple interchangable heads)
Have at least two pair of pliers, a small pair, and a large pair.
Have at least three pipe wrenches, the sizes are optional. but you should have a 12 inch, 18 inch and 24 inch pipe wrench.
Have at least two adjustable wrenches. The popular ones are 10 inch and 12 inch.
Have at least two pairs of channel locks pliers. These pliers are adjustable and will fit multiple sizes of pipes also.
Have a flashlight or emergency light source. With extra batteries
Have at least one utility knife with extra blades.
Have a putty knife.
Have a set of wood chisels.
Have a hack saw, and combination 10 or 12 point wood saw. (also a keyhole saw)
Have a 2 ft. level. (NOTE: A 4 ft. level doesn't hurt either).
Have a small and large carpenter square. (A tri-square and speed square wouldn't hurt either).
Have a 3 ft. step ladder (never use the top step of the ladder).
Have a 6 ft. step ladder (never use the top two steps of the ladder).
Have an extension ladder, length depends on how high your roof edge is. (Usually a 16 ft. will suffice).
Have a chalkline with either blue or red chalk.
Have several carpenter pencils.
Have a good heavyduty electrical extension cord.
Have a good electric or battery powered 3/8" drill with a set of bits.
Have a good flat shovel, and round point shovel. (What they call a sharpshooter works really good).
Have a good iron rake, and hoe, and yard rake.
Have a set of small sawhorses. (Optional)

This will just about do it for my list of tools that you should have around your home. By no means is this list even close to being finished. If you are anything like me when it comes to tools, then your list as with mine just keeps growing. But with this list you should be able to tackle just about any job in and around the home.

Using tools safely:
NEVER LET CHILDREN USE TOOLS WITHOUT ADULT SUPERVISION.

You should have a hardhat, safety glasses, gloves (leather, cotton, and rubber), hearing protection, and rubber or plastic apron, (for painting, staining, and chemicals).

Always read and understand all instructions, precautions, and directions on any materials that can cause health problems.

Jesse Auburg Online Marketing Entrepreneur
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Jesse’s Online Computer Services

How to Restore Kitchen Cabinets.

noreply@blogger.com (Jesse's Tips) — Wed, 21 Apr 2010 10:00:00 +0000

So you have finally decided that the kitchen cabinets are sucking all the light out of the kitchen. You don't know if you need to replace the cabinets, or just restore them.

If you cabinet cases and doors are still sound, you can just restore them. By just cleaning them thoroughly and repainting them. This should take only a week-end to do the job. Will be a lot easier on the pocket book, and you will have the satisfaction of knowing that you did the job yourself.
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There are several ways to clean off the old paint.
1. You can buy paint remover and most of them work pretty well.
   a. Be sure to read all safety and directions.
   b. You will probably have to invest in some safety equipment, such as a respirator, goggles, rubber gloves, and apron.
   c. Be sure to use adequate ventilation when using any chemicals.
   d. No open flames should be used around these chemicals.

2. You can scrape the paint off with a paint scraper.
   a. You can use a heat gun to heat the old paint, and it will come off pretty easy and fast.
   a. I wouldn't recommend using your wife's hair dryer for this operation. It usually won't get hot enough.

3. Or you can use a combination of both techniques. To strip off the paint and lightly and any blemishes that you find.

First: You will want to prep the room, this consists of removing the doors from the cabinets. Then removing all hardware off of the door, such as hings, and handles. You will also need a some kind of drop cloth to protect the floors and walls if you are using chemicals, so they won't come into contact with either the floor, or walls.

You can get painters plastic at any hardware store, and blue painters tape to mask off the walls around the cabinets. Lay out the plastic on the floors.
(Me I like to keep the same hardware for the same door if I am reusing the hardware. You can do this by laying out the hardware as it comes off in the order that it was removed.

I put the hardware into little sandwich baggies and mark the baggie with an identifying number).

Second: Is to remove the old paint from the cabinets, and doors. Which method that you use will take time to do. If you use the paint remover, you will brush it on and let it sit. Usually for 30 to 45 minutes. (READ THE DIRECTIONS because they differ in times. It also depends on humidity, and temperature).

PS: You can also spray paint the cabinets and doors for a smoother finish. But I don't recommend this method unless you are planning to remove the cabinets and spray them outside.

If you take your time brushing the paint looks just as nice.

Third: If you use the chemical way, most of the time you will hav to use a cleaner on the cabinets to nutralize the chemical. (Usually just soap and water.) Then you have to them dry thorougly.

Fourth: You will then want to smooth the surface of the cabinets. Remove dings, and get them ready to prime.
   a. You will need to sand with a course sandpaper start out with 100 grit, this won't remove too much wood at one time, in case you are new to sanding.
   b. I recommend that you use a random orbital sander, with this sander you don't have to sand with the grain of the wood.
   c. You will want to work your way up to about 200 grit sandpaper as a finish grade.

Fifth: Now you want to prime all the surfaces with a good primer coat of paint. After you have painted all the sufaces. You will want to sand them down with 180 to 220 grit sandpaper. This is to rough the surface a little, in order for the finish coat will have a surface to adhere too.

Sixth: After the paint has had time to dry thorougly. It is time to reinstall the hardware. If you have a screw that is loose, or if you over tighten the screw, no problem you can take a tooth pick perferably a flat toothpick and insert into the hole and break it off flush with the hole and do it several times. Then reinsert the screw. This will add wood to the hole and you will be able to tighten the screw.

Then reinstall the doors and you will have a great looking kitchen again. There is no greater satisfaction than knowing that you done the job yourself.
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Jesse Auburg Online Marketing Entrepreneur
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9 Uses for Ashes

noreply@blogger.com (Jesse's Tips) — Wed, 21 Apr 2010 08:24:00 +0000

9 Uses for Ashes
In the winter months you can burn a lot of wood in the fireplace, or wood burning stoves. Most people when they clean out the fireplace, or wood burning stove, just dump their ashes in a heap till they cool off and dispose of them anyway they can. Instead of just disposing of those ashes, why not use them in your garden, or yard?

Uses for that Ash
did you know that ash even though it is burnt, it is still packed with mineral rich dust and nutrients that has practical uses.
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1. The ash is a great odor neutralizing agent, after all it is just carbon now, and carbon is used to clean the air and water that you drink, and many more uses. You can even use the ash on your pets when they have been too long without a bath.

2. You can enrich your compost, just mixed the ash into the pile of leaves, grass, and other compost materials. Let it turn into compost, it will add carbon to the mixture. It will enrich the nutrients, but be careful not to add to much.

3. Ash will also drive pests such as snails, slug, and other insects from the garden. You can also put a line of ash around your garden to stop them from getting into the garden.

4. You can use ash to melt ice on the driveway, and sidewalks, it will provide traction also. The best part of this is that it won't hurt the soil or plants, or the concrete like salt or de-icing agents will. It's a good way to go green.

5. If you have small water gardens or ponds in your yard, you can control pond algae, One tablespoon per 1,000 gallons of water, contains enough potassium to enhance aquatic plants that are in competition with algae, thus slowing it's growth.

6. You can make lye with ashes, which can be mixed with animal fat and then boiled to make soap. Adding salt will harden it as it cools.

7. You can use ash to also clean the soot from your fireplace doors. Just wet a sponge and dip it into the ashes. It will make the glass shine like new. You can also clean out the coffee pot with ash.

8. Tomatoes just love ash, you can use a 1/4 cup of ash when you are planting your tomatoes. Calcium loving plants will love you for it.

9. You can also use ash as a polishing agent for your silver, brass, and other metals. Just mix it into a paste and it is ready.

So just remember before grab that chemical to clean with or de-ice with, that maybe you already have the perfect agent already in your home or backyard. They can never harm your rose bushes, or flowers, or the environment.
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Happy Gardening and May All Your Plants Bloom Beautifully.

Jesse Auburg Online Marketing Entrepreneur
Jesse’s Carpentry Tips
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How to keep from hitting the wrong nail.

noreply@blogger.com (Jesse's Tips) — Wed, 07 Apr 2010 10:02:00 +0000

Hitting the right nail
Hitting a nail with a hammer seems like an easy thing to do! For a lot of people it is easy to hit the nail, unfortunately it's a finger or thumb nail that they hit.

Even experts can't drive nails correctly all of the time. If you look at carpenter's hands you will probably notice that one or two fingernails are black.

One way to eliminate this condition is to find someone that will hold the nail for you. Good Luck with that!!!
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Usually the first mistake that people using hammers make is that they grip the hammer to tightly. When you do grip the hammer to tightly, this will cause your hand to tire. Then you will loose the control that you need to strike the nail squarely leading to what is known as a ricochet.

When a ricochet happens, it usually bends the nail, or the nail flies off into the wild blue yonder if you are outside. Then you probably have a flat laying out there, or the nail can fly up and strike you in the face or worse the eye. Even if it doesn't stick you, it will certainly hurt when it hits.

If you are new to the hammer and nailing business. I would suggest that you use a pair of pliers to hold the nail. Do not grip the nail tightly with the pliers either. The harder you grip things the less control you are going to have.

But if you are feeling brave, or you don't have a pair of pliers. Then use your thumb and forefinger to hold the nail about two thirds of the way up on the shank of the nail. Do not put your fingers against the surface that you are nailing. This way if you do miss the nail, the finger and thumb will be free to move.

Safety First
Before using any tools, always practice safety first. Always use eye protection. A full face shield is best, never trust glasses that are used for reading and such. These glasses are not safety rated and can shatter if hit. Safety goggles are a lot cheaper than having eye surgery.

When first striking the nail, use light hammer strikes until you get the nail bedded into the wood. Once you have the nail about a third of the way into the wood, then you can remove your fingers out of harms way. Then do not hit the nail full force. Always use controlled strikes, this will increase the chances of successfully driving the nail home with fewer strokes, and you don't take the chance of marring your surface.

Size of the nails
The size of the nail, dictates the size of the hammer usually. Some people when driving finishing nails, like to use combs, which is alright. But I still prefer the pliers method. If the nail is really small then I use a pair of needle nose pliers. When striking the nail, no matter what size it is, remember that if the wood you are nailing is a finished piece of wood, it will show hammer marks a lot easier than just a piece of two by four used for framing.

You can wear a nail apron to hold extra nails, if you are going to be doing a lot of nailing. But be careful when wearing one. Because most likely the nails, and things in the apron will be turned every which way. Some of these nails can be pointed toward you, if you bump into something hard or sit wrong, these nails can and will stab you. Also be careful when putting your hands into the nail apron, as the same thing will happen.

When nailing hardwood
When nailing hardwood, or boards that have knots in them, it can be very difficult to drive a nail, successfully. Always try to find a part of the board that doesn't have a knot to fasten to. But if that is not possible, then I would suggest that you predrill a hole just smaller than the nail that you are using. Also when nailing into hardwood, or knots, it is very easy to split the wood without predrilling the hole first.

When driving nails into hardwood or knotty boards, you might find it handy to dull the nail before driving it into the wood. A dull nail will push the wood out instead of the point pressing the wood back in on itself. You can dull the nail by striking the point several times with a hammer. You can also use a bar of soap to rub on the nail, this will coat the nail and make it slick.

Which hammer should I buy?
You should buy a hammer that feels the best to you. You don't need to buy the heaviest meanest hammer on the shelf. Tryout several hammers before you make you decision. A lot of the hardware stores will let you test hammers before you buy it. Usually all you have to do is ask.

When driving nails
When you are driving nails into wood, I have found that people want to drive the nail straight as they can. But actually you should be driving the nail in at an angle. This reduces the chance of the nail working itself loose over time. The greater the angle, the more force required to loosen the nail. This holds true for finish wood as well. You just have to be more careful when driving the nail home. In finish woods, I will use a nail set once I have the finish nail most of the way. This will hide the nail and won't mar the finish.

Avoiding OOPS
To avoid oops, when nailing into wood. Especially if it is finished wood, is to use a scrap piece of lumber with a hole drilled into it. Place hole over the nail and against the wood. This way if you miss the nail, or hit it will a glancing blow, You won't leave a half-moon indention in the finished wood, and creating a lot of extra work for yourself. If it is a small nail, you can use a piece cut out of a plastic milk container, drill a hole, or cut a vee into the edge of the plastic to cover the wood around the nail.

Pulling Nails
When pulling nails in lumber, I always use a scrap of lumber under the head of the hammer, or nail puller that I am using to remove the nail. This will spread the pressure out over a large part of the surface, so that I won't mar the finish.
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Restoring Hardwood Floors

noreply@blogger.com (Jesse's Tips) — Sat, 03 Apr 2010 03:29:00 +0000

Restoring your old hardwood floors to a like new condition, will bring back their color and shine. The basic steps to do it are very simple and usually easier than most people think.

You don't have to rip the floor out and start over again, unless when you step on them you fall through the floor. Which has happened to me on more than one occasion. But these floors were well past any hope of reclaiming. Most floors are just in need of a little T.L.C. Most people think that they have to sand the floor before they can refinish the floor. The only reason to re-sand a hard wood floor is to remove deep scratches or stains from the hard wood floor surface such as a grease or oil, lacquer, or some other stain that can't be removed except by sanding it.

There are products that can refinish a hard wood floor without sanding, and there are really good cleansers that can remove different types of stains. So check with a flooring specialist and be sure to show photos of the damaged areas. He might have advice on how to best fix the damaged area.
Hardwood floors can last a life time, in fact can last several lifetimes if they are taken care of properly. So don't just start ripping floors out and starting from scratch. Most business's dealing with floors will tell you to restore the floor instead of tearing it out. It will save trees by doing this and who doesn't want to save a tree or two. Not to mention the money aspect of replacing a hardwood floor. They are very expensive to replace, especially using exotic woods, or 3/4" or 7/8" hard wood.

Sanding the floor will be the trickiest part of the whole job. But with a little preparation and hard work, you can find the beauty that's hidden under all the years of abuse the floor has taken. Not to mention the satisfaction of being able to tell your friends that you did it yourself.

I hear of people talking about replacing their floors with bamboo to help save the earth, because bamboo grows fast and is a replenish-able resource. But if your floor just in need of cleaning, sanding, and refinishing. You are going to do a lot more hard work tearing out and replacing it with whatever type of flooring you choose. Not to mention the money that you could save. You can do a whole lot sanding before you need to replace it.

First Step:
Is to do some reading on restoring and refinishing hardwood floors, and talking with experts in the field to find out exactly what you will have to do to your floors. If you talk with experts take photo's of the floor especially any damaged places. They can and will usually tell you how to fix them. It never hurts to ask. You might get prices on an expert to sand and prep the floor for you.

Second Step:
Is to remove any existing covering that is on the flooring. Then you need to clean the floor with a cleaner specifically made for hard wood. Be sure to read and follow the directions on the label, these cleaners are very powerful. This will get all the dirt and debris out of the cracks, and wood grain. Use a cleaner that is non-toxic and earth-friendly. Make sure to have adequate ventilation when using these cleaners.

Even though some say there are no harmful fumes, why take the chance. Besides it gets very hot inside a closed up house, and some have fumes that are not very friendly. Make sure that heaters, and pilot lights in or near the area are turned off. Some of the cleaners are extremely flammable. You should probably invest in a respirator and protective clothing and eye wear while cleaning and sanding the floors.

Third Step:
Inspect the floor closely for any nails, if you find any reset them below the surface of the floor, and fill the holes with standard wood filler. Look for splinters sticking up. If you cut them off, be sure to fill in the void with a wood filler. DO NOT PULL ON THE SPLINTER THIS WILL CAUSE IT TO RUN WITH THE GRAIN OF THE WOOD. It will just larger and larger.

NOTE: If the splinter is really large, cut it off and replace the missing piece with a scrap of wood, then sand it back down flush. You can usually find small scraps of the species of wood that you have at a flooring store.

If the floor needs to be sanded to smooth any rough spots. Depending on how large the damage is or how many damaged areas there are. If you just have a few small areas that need to be smoothed before refinishing. Then look into getting a small palm sander and different grits of sandpaper, ranging from 100, stepping the grit up gradually till you get up to no less than 220 grit sandpaper. The higher the grit the smoother the finish is.

If the area is larger or you want to smooth the whole floor then you will need to get a commercial sander. This is where it gets down to you deciding on whether you do it, or get a professional to do it. These machines are hard to control, especially if you haven't used one before. It won't take long to damage a floor to where it has to be replaced if you are not careful. This is not to scare you off, just to warn you before you start.

When you sand the floor with a commercial sander, be sure to keep the sander level and running with the grain of the wood. (NEVER ACROSS THE GRAIN OF THE WOOD!) This is crucial, if you tilt the sander forward, backward, or to one side or the other. This will cause dips, gouges, and could burn the wood. These dips and gouges will take a lot of extra sanding to smooth out. Be sure to either clean or replace the sandpaper as often as needed. Usually when you notice that it is not sanding, or it is starting to burn the wood.

The sandpaper grit will start filling up with dust from wood & lacquer or urethane and this can cause burning marks on the wood which will have to be removed also. There is no way to tell you how long the sandpaper will last or when it will fill up with cuttings. You will just have to check the sandpaper belt often at first until you get the feel of how it is sanding the floor. Once you have the floor sanded to the finished grit. Then you will have to clean the floor again, using a little liquid dish soap and water will remove the residue from the floor. Then clean the floor with clean water. Clean the floor until you know it is clean. You don't want to have to stop in the middle of refinishing the floor because there was residue left behind. (This could even cause you to start over in some cases).

Liquid sanders are another option to sand with, but cannot be used on bare wood. These liquids will eat the lacquer off, leaving a residue that can be wiped away with a damp towel or sponge. Read the directions on the label well before using liquid sanders, because they may have more limitations and side effects.

Successful Staining

There are no shortcuts to staining applications, before staining find an out of the way place on the floor, or if possible a scrap of the same kind of wood and stain a small area. Let it set till it gets the right color. Then look at it and decide if it is the right color and sheen for your floor. You need to decide as to what type of stain you are going to use, also what color and either dull, satin, or high-gloss finish. Either oil-based stain, or Water-based stains. Water-based stains will usually dry quicker than oil-based stains. It also may take several coats of water-based stain to get to the color and sheen that you want. This is no hurry up and get it over with operation. The main mistake people make when staining is getting in a hurry.

High-gloss finishes are not really well suited for homes, because they reflect light really well. They can cause glaring, especially when the sun shines through a window. Which in some cases can be distracting. Also dull or satin finishes will not show scuff marks as much as high-gloss finishes.

DO NOT SHAKE THE CAN, THIS WILL RESULT IN AIR BUBBLES IN THE URETHANE!!! ONCE YOU START IT'S NOT WISE TO STOP UNTIL YOU HAVE FINISHED. IT WILL LEAVE AN OVERLAY MARK WHERE YOU STARTED AGAIN. Use a synthetic-based pad or preferably a brush to apply it with. Do not use steel wool because it will flake off in the finish. Before you start, plan exactly how you are going to apply it, DON'T PAINT YOURSELF INTO A CORNER OR YOU'RE GOING TO HAVE TO WAIT UNTIL IT DRIES!!!!!

Drying agents can be added to a stain to quicken up the drying process.

Once you have finished with the floor, you will need to maintain the floor. The maintenance depends more on the finish than the wood itself. If it is a high-gloss finish it will show dust, dirt, and scratches quicker than a dull, or satin finish. Light or natural colored stains and dull finishes don't show the dirt and dust as quickly as dark-colored stains and high-gloss finishes.

Keeping It Clean

You should dust the floor, by either using a lightly damp mop, or vacuuming, and always cleaning up spilled liquid immediately. This will keep the liquid from getting past the finish. You should clean you floors once about every two weeks, maybe more frequently on high-traffic areas. Do not use general or wood type cleaners on the finished floor, they can cause problems in the long time condition of the floor. Find a cleaner specifically formulated to your type of wood floors.

You should never use a wet mop on the floor, because water or detergents can get past the finish and cause the wood to swell up, and cause damage to the wood itself. The detergents will leave a residue on the floor and will cause scratches in the finish.

Now that you have floors that look new and great, you also have the satisfaction of knowing that you did it yourself, and saved a few trees in the process. Next time you're in the woods you will be almost able to hear them thank you.

Jesse Auburg Online Marketing Entrepreneur
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Tool Inspection

noreply@blogger.com (Jesse's Tips) — Sun, 28 Mar 2010 18:10:00 +0000

Hello again, this article is to tell about your tool, how to clean them and keep them in shape so you can use them safely and in the correct way.

Always inspect your tools before you try to use them, no matter what the tool is. Like don't use a screwdriver that has a broken blade tip. Make sure that the edge tip is square to the shank of the screwdriver. If the tip is broken or worn down. It is time to repair or replace it.

You can either file a new tip to square it up, or if you are proficient with a grinder then do so. Just remember that using a grinder on a screwdriver will heat the tip up very quickly. If the tip gets hot enough it will take the temper of the steel. Which will cause problems, like stripping out the slots on straight slot screws, or the screwdriver will continually slip out of the slot.

No more than they cost nowadays, they can be replaced cheaply and quickly.

Chisels, are sharp when you buy them, you should treat them like a pocket knife. When your knife gets dull, you sharpen them on a wet stone, or some other kind of knife sharpening tool. You treat your chisels, the same way. You can get a wet stone very reasonably priced. Sharpen your chisels, before they get dull. If you get into the practice of sharpening your chisels regularly, you won't have to spend an hour or so getting the edge back into shape.

You can also hollow grind the middle of the face of the chisel, this reduces the amount of face that is dragging on the stone any one time. I personally don't use this method for the simple reason when you get to the edge of the hollow ground part of the face, all that will have to be ground down.

Always Put Safety First and Stay Safe

Jesse Auburg Online Marketing Entrepreneur
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How To Correct Small Blemishes And Defects In Your Woodworking Project

noreply@blogger.com (Jesse's Tips) — Sat, 20 Mar 2010 08:08:00 +0000

Instant Access To 14,000 Woodworking Plans & Projects
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While it is customary for wood to have defects like splits, cracks and knots, you may notice blemishes in your finished project like scratches, dents and gouges. These blemishes are inflicted on the wood from the machines you use to make your project. Even if you're making a plain piece like a pair of bookends, you'll want to remove these blemishes if you want your woodworking project to look its best. If you're making a larger piece, it becomes even extra important to remove these defects.

Wood putty is available in many colors and forms, and is the easiest method of repairing gouges and other minute defects on the wood's surface. While wood putty of all kinds are basically applied the same, there can be a difference in your treatment depending on the wood you are using. For illustration, if your wood has an open grain with bigger knots and large cracks, that will require a different treatment because the space that needs to be filled is larger. Dents can frequently be steamed out, while shallow dents and scratches may disappear under the sander. Occasionally a piece will split accidentally while you are routing. If you can find the chip, it may work to glue it in place and hold it securely by wrapping the piece in masking tape. If you can't locate the chip, it may be possible to make a new piece to glue in place. If possible, try to cut the replacement for the chip from the same board so the color and quality will match.

While applying putty, you will need a putty knife or a flathead screwdriver. Using the end of your tool, apply the putty to the cavity in the wood. Pack in as much putty as possible, and remember to leave the putty higher than the surface of the wood... It will shrink as it dries. When it is completely dry, you can do a little light sanding to bring the patch-up even with the wood surface. Be by all means and sand it the same way you did the rest of the piece so the texture matches. If the repair needs to be made in a very obvious place on your project, there are a few guidelines you may choose to follow. If the piece will be finished without any stain and you have it in mind to finish it with only a clear coat or an oil finish, it is possible to make your own putty out of glue and sawdust from your project. You may also mix the sawdust with an epoxy. Epoxy dries very quickly and won't contract like glue. If you plan to stain your project, you will need to use a water-based putty or wood filler. If you're lucky, the putty will match or dry slightly lighter than your wood. If this happens you can always touch it up as needed. Or, you can add color to the filler before you put it on your piece. If you elect to do this, check on a piece of scrap wood first to see if it matches.
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So until Next time May your days be filled with Sunshine and Joy

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Taking Care of your Tools

noreply@blogger.com (Jesse's Tips) — Sat, 13 Mar 2010 04:52:00 +0000

Usually the first thing that a trademan or handyman will learn is that they can't do much work if their tools are dull and dirty.

Before using or sharpening any tools, be sure to read and understand the manuels on how to use and take care of the tools. (If they come with one.)

It takes longer to repair a mistake than it does to sharpen tools. Usually with a tool that is already in good shape, it will only take a couple of minutes to resharpen it.

Always use the right tools for the right job. Never use a steel hammer on a screwdriver, chisel, or punch. These tools are hardened steel, they can break or chip when struck. Use a dead blow mallet or wooden mallet to strike these tools.

Use light strikes with the mallet. It might take more strikes this way, but you can control the amount of force so you don't drive it to far. You can always strike it again, but once you go to far into the wood. It is very hard if not impossible to back it up.

Make sure that your saw blades are sharp. If you don't know how to sharpen a hand saw, then it would be best to have a professional do it. If it's sharpened right, it can make it track to the right or left. Not to mention that it will probably take forever to get the wood cut.

Welcome to Jesse's Carpentry Tips

noreply@blogger.com (Jesse's Tips) — Fri, 12 Mar 2010 04:19:00 +0000

It has been my experience that most men learn to do maintenance work around the house either to save money or out of necessity. Of course this calls for finding the right tools and perhaps reading several how to books. The up side is that new skills are being learned that can be passed on to others that may be in need of some expert advice. This is the purpose of the blog to share with others tips and tricks that can save a lot of time, frustrations and energy when you know about them. So book mark this blog and come back often as we will be posting new information fairly often.

Sincerely,
Master Handy Man
Jesse Auburg