Joe's Trippin'

BitterSweet Kandy

2016-01-23T22:22:00.001+04:00

If a place is going to be known for one thing something in particular, you'd think it'd do what it could to exemplify it. Let's say you want to be a party place, i.e. Ibiza or Koh Phangan, then you need to party. So logic would dictate, if you're going to be a place renowned for its holiness, then tranquil serenity should exude from every pore. Well, Kandy is famous for a temple, but it is anything but serene.

Just the geography of the place seemed enticing. A town surrounding a still lake,

surrounded but forested hills. The chirp of exotic birds fill the air while the occasional elephant saunters through the streets. Or at least that's what i had my hopes up for. The train ride from Colombo was great; scenic, cultural, fun. But it became pretty obvious from the moment we pulled into Kandy station that my delusions of restful ponderances were in no way based in reality.

It's not like Kandy is a chaotic Delhi-esque mess of motos, cars and cattle clogging the arteries

of the city. I suppose if talking on a relative scale, Kandy is pretty tame. Of course, walking around the traffic jam that is the lake road is another story. Somehow I thought that the city's history would amount to so much more. It was the last capital of the Sinhala kings. It was a colonized British city for a while. One would hope that somebody somewhere among the way would have left a mark. But modern day Kandy is just the second biggest city in its country, a transit hub and... oh... hosts the holiest site in the country.

The Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic is the centrepiece (rather only piece) of the

UNESCO World Heritage listing. It is said that an actual tooth of Siddhartha Gautama was brought to Sri Lanka and ended up here. Beyond the 'religious' significant of the tooth, it turned out to be quite the lucky charm bringing political fortune to whoever held it. While the place does draw in the faithful pilgrims, these days, it the tourism mother load!

Ok, yes, it is a pretty building. And sure, seeing faithful pray is cultural. But there is no

question how touristy it is. There's a separate line and shoe storage for white-folk, not to mention the somewhat hefty entrance fee. While it is unlikely you'll ever see the actual tooth, there are other things to see and do on site. But, to be honest, they're very ordinary. The museum is poorly lit, horribly displayed and frankly, uninteresting. The meditation centres are ghost towns. And the whole thing just feels... i don't know... fake somehow.

Kandy was... fine... i suppose. But it just wasn't what I had hoped it would be. Instead, it was more of what I expected. Just a city with an over-hyped site.

Clamberin' through Colombo

2016-01-19T12:29:00.000+04:00

I downright enjoy me a good city, especially a capital. Vibrant... lively... happenin'... capital cities have it all. Sadly, not all capitals are created equal. Despite a city's reputation, I try to give them a shot. People say 'stay away from Georgetown, Guyana', but I actually liked the place. General chatter around the forums is that Colombo, Sri Lanka is good for an airport and that's about all. And... well... they may be right.

Truth be said, Colombo actually surprised me at first. I'm not sure what I was expecting,
perhaps something more akin to the Indian, every man for themselves, live version Frogger, street crossings. But Colombo was definitely India-light. Relative calm and organization (notice I said 'relative'), nice green spaces and no real hassle for the white man who just wants to walk and doesn't need a freakin' tuk-tuk!! But, a lack of general chaos and a few parks just aren't reason enough to sing the praises of a city.

I guess the big draw of town are Buddhist related. Gangaramaya Temple is likely the leader
of the pack. However, chances are you're going to see much more impressive Buddhist sites in other parts of the country. The Seema Malaka temple in the middle of Beira Lake is nice, and rather photogenic. But it takes all of 6 and a half minutes to walk around the thing. And that's sort of how I felt in most of the "attractions" in town. There are churches and museums and such, but I just wasn't feeling it.

Instead of giving up, I decided to just people watch and I figured 'what better place than
a park?'. Sadly, the weather was rather uncooperative. It's hard to creep on people when there sprinting from covered spot to covered spot as if they were made of sugar. In the end, I just gave up. Crap weather and ordinary sights just wasn't enough to motivate me to leave my cool hotel. Speaking of which, while I don't usually recommend hotels and such the Cinnamon Red is an amazing, value for money place to stay. And the views are to absolutely die for!! (get a corner room)

Bottom line? Colombo is not the highlight of Sri Lanka. I get why so many people just pay for a taxi from the airport to their 1st destination, bypassing Colombo altogether. I suppose I'm glad I went. But I certainly have no need to go back.

'Divian Island Hoppin'

2016-01-16T18:45:00.002+04:00

Very few destinations are so closely associated with island paradise. The Maldives would not only fit that description, but be a contender for the global leader. Crystal clear waters, pristine beaches and those iconic overwater bungalows, this is the sort of place that make many beach goers drool. Sadly, for so long, it was simply out of reach for the average Joe (or JoesTrippin as the case may be) as costs of the most basic holidays easily reach well into the thousands of dollars. Luckily, things are changing.

When you think of Maldives, you think of extortionate expense... and for good reason. A quick
look on booking.com will show rooms on the private resort islands starting at $400-$500/night. If you want a famous overwater villa at a top end place, and that price shoots up to $4,000-$5,000 a night!! Then, there's the fact that the private resorts have no competition for goods and services. Diving, tours and water-sport equipment are all overly expensive. And the nail in the coffin is the transport to get to the islands. Private speedboats, or heaven forbid floatplane flights, easily add $100s if not $1,000s to the holiday. But some of that is changing.

Only a few years ago, the Maldivian government decided to diversify its tourism portfolio. What it

did was allow people on the residential islands open guesthouse for tourists. Maafushi was one of the first to embrace the change. At present, there are roughly 30 guesthouses and hotels on Maafushi (building still in full bloom), with pretty much everything under $100/night. OK... Maafushi is certainly not the prettiest of islands, actually i wouldn't even call it pretty. But with a market-ecomony, as opposed to resort monopolies, means using Maafushi as a base to explore afield is a smart option.

Diving is a highlight of the country, but costs can add up. While there the same fish, same
reefs and same water, Maafushi offers dives for almost half of the resorts. Diving not your thing? There's snorkelling, jet skiing, parasailing, night fishing, dinner cruises and pretty much every other diversion you can think off. All while not "cheap" certainly more affordable. Then there's the added bonus that the residential islands, like Maafushi, are services by dirt cheap public ferries.

Still have the need for some 5* pampering? Many of the resort islands offer access passes to their facilities (for a price). For about $50-$200 you can do a day-trip to any number of resorts including transport, all-you-can-eat buffets, open bars plus beach chairs, hammock and umbrella.

Bottom line...? Maafushi is not the idyllic tropical paradise you see in postcards. Actually, the island itself is rather unattractive. But with decent accommodation options at reachable prices, residential islands like Maafushi are opening up a destination previously impossible for even mid-range travellers. Give-and-take!

Taxin' Capital Transfer

2016-01-02T14:15:00.001+04:00

Capital cities. The glitz and glam of most country's showpieces, capital cities are usual a must-see for almost any destination. Not only do they house iconic buildings and culture oozing museums, but a diversity of people, foods and traditions. They are the sites of historical battles, triumphs and treaties. They are our transport hubs and our commercial centres. In the end, they are almost always the heart and soul of their country... well... almost always!

The Maldives is a country comprised of nearly 1,200 little islands congregating into spread out atolls in the middle of the ocean. Of these islands, only about 200 are permanently inhabited (not including private resort islands). The most populated and capital of the country is Male (MA-lay). But while Male is at the centre of commerce, near the major international airport and hub to almost all public ferries in the nation, a disproportionately low percentage of travellers actually step foot on the island. It is skipped over with seemingly great distain as holiday goers opt for ridiculously priced private speed boats directly from the airport island.

The fact of the matter is, Male ain't all that. It is an island that was never meant to hold that many people. The roads are packed, and highly disorganized. Development seems random at best. it is most certainly not the iconic holiday paradise that postcards mislead us to believe is ubiquitous. Actually, the capital island is such a mess, the government built a new island attached to the airport (Hulhumale) with the intention of moving many people off Male, kind of scrapping the capital island as is and starting anew.

For the average tourist, Male really doesn't offer very much. There is a mosque for those hoping for some insight into Islam (it does allow non-Muslims). But the mosque is hardly ornate. There is a park (remembering how densely populated the island is, it's a big deal) but it's just a park. The government building lack an ostentatious flare you come to expect from such buildings. And the national museum is way overpriced.

Still, that's not a reason to avoid the island full-stop. People are just as friendly and helpful here as the resorts. Actually, most people on Male are actually Maldivian as opposed to the largely imported resort workers. There is lively market. And... immmm... there's pavement. There's something you don't get at the resorts!!!

Ok, fine. Male is not the biggest attraction of the country. And globally, the island would not even make the tourist map. But there's something just wrong about avoiding such an important part of a country. While overwater villas and coral reefs are the reason to come the Maldives, there is no reason to skip over the country's capital.

Likin' La Villa Loca

2015-12-02T23:48:00.001+04:00

Baby Bear really knew his stuff. Things were never too hot or cold. They weren't too hard or soft. He always managed to combine the two to get it just right. Tourism can be a bit like that. Visit a place in its peak, and it overcrowded and noisy. But see that same place in the off-peak and it's dead as Goldie Locks would have been if she actually walked into a bear's den. Villa de Leyva can be one of these too much or too little kind of places, that is unless you time it right.

Villa de Leyva is a tiny town, nestled in the leafy hills about 3 hours north-ish from Bogota. At first, the town might not seem like much. It was never really on any major trade route, nor were there mining fortune made in the area. So the town was built to be pretty, lived in and that's about it. But the thing is due to the fact that there was no reason to exploit the place, it pretty much laid dormant for 400 years. Largely untouched, Villa de Leyva is considered one of the best preserved colonial towns in Colombia, if not the greater region.

These days, though, the town is anything but untouched. Being so close to the capital, Villa has become a favourite weekend getaway for Bogota-in-anian-ese looking to getaway from the city. That means that if you come here on a Friday or Saturday night, the tacky touristy streets have more people that cobblestones and blaring thump-thump music bellows out of every restaurant, hotel or internet cafe. It is loud, crowded and obnoxious.

The alternative is to visit on a weekday. While normally i'd be all.. like... "Cool! I get the place to myself!!" it's kind of a double edged sword. Because while the place is darn near deserted, that also means many of the cafes and restaurants are closed to, or at the very least have limited operations. It's all a bit feast or famine.

So i guess the trick to enjoy Villa de Leyva is the yin/yang the place. That is to say, try to get the best of both worlds. I rocked up on a Sunday, surfed the crowds, got my fill of thump-thump music then as the sunset, the weekenders evacuated the place like rats off the Titanic. The next day, i had it all to myself. For that reason, I quite liked Villa de Leyva and would go back if ever in Bogota again.

The Good, the Bad & Copacabana

2015-11-24T23:03:00.000+04:00

Sometimes you need to take the good with the bad. For those who travel to the Taj Mahal in India, you are forced to deal with the city of Agra. You want to visit the Pyramids? Good luck with Cairo. One of the major draws of Bolivia is Lake Titicaca (i immaturely giggle as i write it). Sadly, to see the lake, you're all but forced to use Copacabana as a base.

It has long been a popular route for travellers to cross, overland, from Peru to Bolivia. While there are a couple transit options, by far the most popular choice is through the village of Copacabana. The crossing itself is pretty uneventful. The 2 or 3 bus companies that do the crossing have it down to a science. Just move along like sheep and in short time you have a couple extra passport stamps and you're ready for Bolivia.

The problem is, the first stop is the town of Copacabana. I often speak of terms like "mass tourism" or "sustainable tourism". These are conflicting trends which have a dramatic impact on local culture, environment and economy. Copacabana is a prime example of unsustainable tourism. Virtually every single building in town is for tourism purposes. Whether a budget hostel, hole-in-the-wall cafe, travel agent or exchange office this place is built for the sole purpose of making sure backpackers don't have to think or integrate in any way, shape or form. There is nothing cultural or beautiful about the town. It is artificial and ugly.

As is the case with other such places in the world, horrible little towns like Copacabana are

generally a means to an end. Nobody in the right minds would choose to visit Aguas Calientes in Peru. But it just so happens to be the gateway to Machu Picchu, so there's little other choice. The thing is, Copacabana is the launching pad to Lake Titicaca. While this might not be the popular opinion, Lake Titicaca is more product of excellent marketing branding than an actual attraction. It is by no means the most beautiful lake in the world.

It wouldn't even make a Letterman Top 10 list. But everyone's about "the Highest Navigable Lake" in the world as if that's a thing. Just because you make up some ridiculous title like 'it's a church built by a left-handed, blond architect on a Tuesday of a leap year' does not make the church any more impressive. It's not that the lake is ugly. But Lake Titicaca, as a body of water, is overwhelmingly underwhelming. Just ask the armanda of travellers who almost instantly fall asleep as soon as they step on a tour boat.

There is, however, good news. Lake Titicaca is more than just a lake, there's actually stuff to

see and do on the lake. Without question the biggest draw is the Isla del Sol (Sun Island). Jutting out of the lake, a few hour boat ride from Copacabana, Isla del Sol is a breath of fresh air at 4,000 metres above sea level. There are no cars on the island. People are still largely fishermen and farmers. The place is a stark contrast to the depressingness of Copacabana (although the island does not seem immune to rapid growth). Even better, the island is more than just a place to get away, it a destination in and of itself.

Arguably the biggest draw on the island is the series of Incan and very pre-Incan ruins scattered

around the rugged terrain. Extremely well maintained stone paths criss-cross their way from one end to another, passing by most points of interest. The hike is, quite literally, breath-taking. Do keep in mind though, if hoping to do the north-south trek in a day, you have to maintain a pretty steady pace to catch the last boat. While the overall trip is a nice one, one thing did irk me (and downright pissed off others). You are asked to pay for tickets at several points along the path. I have no problem financially contributing to the upkeep of the trail, but some sort of all island ticket can't be that far a stretch, can it?

So to sum up, I hated Copacabana with every fibre of my being. Lake Titicaca produced more yawns than gasps. And Isla del Sol is a jewel in the rough getting roughed over. With all that said, it is an easy trip and some of the views along the trail on the island are kind of pretty. Plus a friend of mine swears by the spiritualness of the place. So i guess there's that.

Death Defyin'

2015-11-13T18:36:00.000+04:00

I don't usually seek out danger, although frequently I show how end up there. Whether being bombed in Yemen, detained in Afghanistan or shaken-down in Somalia, my travel destinations often involve a bit of risk. But when I had some time in Bolivia, how could I possibly resist a place called "The Death Road"?

Officially known as the North Yungas road, this stretch of road (60 km outside La Paz) was given the morbid title of Death Road back in the '90s. It became famous for having the most fatalities per kilometre anywhere in the world. Some estimates say that between 200-300 people every year were killed trying to traverse the rather poorly planned and even more poorly maintain transport corridor. Starting at La Cumbre Pass (4,650 metres above sea level) and ending at Coroico (1,200 m.a.s.l.) the road is barely wide enough for one way traffic, let alone 2-direction large transport traffic. If coupled with poor visibility and landslides, it is clear to see why so many lost their lives here.

These days, however, most of the traffic has been diverted to much safer passages. This leaves

the road to thrill seekers, mostly of the mountain biking variety. Tours of adventurers leave out of La Paz for the relatively easy day-trip. For the most part, it's all downhill, and there isn't much pressure to go to fast if you don't want. Luckily our guides let us pouch the limits and i'm not sure we could have gone any faster. It doesn't take an expert to do the road, but you should be somewhat comfortable on a bike. One girl on the tour took a nasty spill and broke her collarbone. Apparently, it happens a lot.

The trip is certainly a pretty one. And it is generally a fun day out. But it's not really the Edge of Death journey with a "i'm going to die" feeling i was sort of hoping for. Still, if in the region, it's probably a must-see and I'd still recommend it.

Peace on High

2015-10-31T14:25:00.002+04:00

Paris, Rome, Berlin, London, Amsterdam... it's kind of hard not to think of the amazing capital cities when travelling through Europe. Quite often these centres of transport, commerce and tourism are the major highlight of the country, or at least that's what the flash-packing "8 countries in 10 days" tours would like you to believe. The thing about South America is the capitals most certainly not the main draws. Colombia's great, but Bogota is worth a miss. Venezuela has several things to see, but Caracas is not one of them. And who's ever heard of Brasilia? Bolivia has even upped the ante by having 2 capitals. Sadly, the increase chance ends in double the disappointment.

Admittedly, arriving into La Paz is a bit of a treat. The city is built into a valley better resembling

a bowl of dancing fairy lights. It's one of he few times i can remember a the travellers on a bus saying "wow" in unison. Sadly, it is quite literally all downhill from there. La Paz is a congested, dirty city. The downtown area, where most travellers stay (as that where the "attractions" are) is largely unattractive. The so-called highlights, like the Calle de Brujas (street of witches) or even the cathedral, are very ordinary at best. To make matters worse, being near 4,000 metres above sea level and full of hills, even a simple walk to the corner store becomes a Herculean effort.

I guess to be a little bit positive, La Paz does have a few cute-ish streets (those not ruined

by cobwebs of power lines). A few, like Jaen Street, have even been touristified. Plus, La Paz is a good place to stuff your face at some above average restaurants at very reasonable prices. There are tour agencies everywhere making onward travel a breeze. Not to mention a myriad of accommodation to suit pretty much any budget (although the mid range stuff is not exactly value for money). I guess one could say, La Paz is practical enough to suit some traveller needs. But that hardly makes it a world class destination in and of itself.

One could get outside the centre to fill the time. The Valle de Luna (Valley of the Moon) is an

often hyped attraction. But it's a pain to get to and it is shockingly small. After the first few minutes you have a feeling of, "this is it?". And then there's a place where people are just dying to go... the cemetery (bad pun... just live with it). However, seeing tourists snap photos of grieving people certainly left me a little uncomfortable. And then when you start seeing eviction notices on the tombs... it's actually quite sad.

Luckily, there's a way to rise above it all. Modelled after the city of Medellin, Colombia, La Paz's

public transport system is probably the biggest highlight of the city. A series of cable car lines criss-cross their way up and down the valley edges. The system has revolutionized public transport, enabling greater access to the city centre for those in outlying areas of the city. But it has also booted tourism. The views of the surrounding mountains and the barrios (slums) themselves are nothing short of spectacular. This cheap and practical solution to traffic congestion is possibly the single greatest reason to visit La Paz.

Bottom line is, La Paz is almost impossible to skip during a visit to Bolivia. It's the most logic base for visits to the Salt Flats, Lake Titicaca or the Death Road. Not to mention it is likely going to be your point of entry and/or exit if flying into the country. But if trying to decide whether to spend an extra day in the city or somewhere else in the country, my vote is for any other place than La Paz.

Poor Little Prince

2015-10-28T17:31:00.000+04:00

On January 12th, 2010 an estimated 230,000 people lost their lives in a 7.0 earthquake that ravaged Haiti. While some parts of the country were relatively untouched (like Cap-Haitien), the capital of Port-au-Prince bore the full brunt of the tremor. 5 years later, the Haitian capital is still licking its wounds, trying to recover from the edge of decimation.

Some 5 years later, the effects of the earthquake are still brutally evident. The downtown area,

which was most heavily affected, still has half crumbling buildings and partially built roads. Port-au-Prince better resembles a war ravaged city than a Caribbean capital. USAID and other such relief emblems are splattered around every one-time doorway or make-shift juice stand. Any other country with the resources to do so probably would have patch over the scars by now. But Haiti has long been a poor country and bouncing back from the earthquake will take generations.

There is, however, no other greater symbol of the devastation than Port-au-Prince's Notre Dame

de l'Assomption Cathedral. Built between 1884-1914, the once mighty building was the crowning jewel of architectural achievement in the country. Sadly, the place of pilgrimage and worship was all but levelled, leaving little more than a skeleton as a reminder. It's worth asking around to find someone with keys to get inside, although a "contribution to rebuilding" would be required.

With all that said, Port-au-Prince is by no means dead. On the contrary, there is a lot of life. Perhaps nowhere is the

more obvious than the market area, especially around the Marche de Fer (Iron Market). The dizzying unplanned covered "alleyways" twist and turn in every direction, all leading to a unmistakable red building. On one half is the truly bizarre voodoo market, arguably the tourist highlight of the city. This is the first place you get a glimpse into a vibrant artist scene in the city. Other dedicated street exhibit some of the most unique, if not a little dark, artist expressionism anywhere in the world.

Truth be known, you could probably even confine your visit to the areas of Petionville with it's bars and restaurants and clubs and wonder what everyone is on about. Or you could gawk at the sprawling tent cities and barrio slums. This is a city with a lot of faces.

Fact of the matter is, with extortionately expensive hotels and some of the worst value for money I have ever experienced, I didn't plan to stay long in the city. There might be a dimension to the place i've totally missed out on. Frankly speaking, though, I really don't feel a need to go back and explore that option. Port-au-Prince, though not the hellhole it has the reputation of being, is certainly not a regional highlight.

Bustin' a Cap

2015-10-23T17:04:00.001+05:00

Financially speaking, Haiti is poor. While it's poverty ranking will vary depending on which index you choose, it doesn't really matter if you're 11th or 24th, bottom line is poor is poor. And when your capital city is flattened in an earthquake killing 100s of thousands, where does the population turn for jobs, security and a better life? In the case of Haiti, the answer is probably Cap-Haitien.

Despite the fact Cap-Haitien was pretty much untouched by the 2010 earthquake, on first

impression (especially after crossing from the Dominican Republic) the impoverishment of Cap-Haitien is immediate. The crumbling infrastructure, the shanty towns tumbling downhill to erode into the river and the general cleanliness can all be a shock to the system. Frankly, any tourist that comes here is likely heading off to the UNESCO listed Citadelle Lafferiere. But given half a chance, if you manage to scratch under the surface of Cap-Haitien a bit, you can start to see that what it lacks in money, it kinda, sorta makes up for in culture.

There was a time, oh so many moons ago, when Cap-Haitien was the place to be. It served as

the capital of the French colony of Saint-Domingue in the 18th century. Then is was the capital of Roi Christophe's short-lived Kingdom of Northern Haiti for part of the 19th century. Today, the faded and crack colonial facades of the buildings are reminiscent of New Orleans' younger, crack-addicted, cousin with a hangover. And the port would be better suited as a backdrop to Pirates of the Caribbean. But there's no question the city is still alive.

Perhaps nowhere in town is more vibrant than the central Marché. This is not some Disneyfied
tourist market to pick up postcards or handicrafts. This, instead, is a place to buy fruits & veg or pots & pans or things that I'm sure don't even have names in English. True, you spend half your time stepping over puddles, playing chicken with wheelbarrows or staring down overconfident rats, but that's part of the fun of the whole experience.

I wish i could say Cap-Haitien is a hidden gem or diamond in the rough. The truth is the town is... well.. just rough. Other than using it as a base to explore the surrounding ruins, the only real reason this place would even be part of a travel itinerary is if you're a Chilean UN peacekeeper or Guyanese salty sea-captain. But the under-hyped draw of San-Soucci palace and Citadelle Laferriere is a flame beaconing only the most intrepid travellers. As such, Cap-Haitien is one of those "well, if there's no other choice" destinations.

Seein' the Citadel

2015-10-13T20:01:00.000+05:00

Very few people would ever associate Haiti with the word "tourism". A long standing reputation as the poorest country in the western hemisphere combined with the devastating 2010 earthquake, mention Haiti tourism and the uninitiated would almost certainly ask "Why?". But considering Haiti has one of the greatest, man-made attractions in the Caribbean, I have to ask "Haiti tourism... why not?"

The tiny town of Milot is not the attraction I'm speaking of. A couple meandering streets, simple

shops and a church or 2 is really nothing to write home about. Actually, Milot might even be more about getting there than being there. Hoping in a tap-tap (a pick-up truck turned shared taxi bus thing) is a great way to get up close and personal (very close and personal) with the locals. But it only takes a few seconds once arriving in Milot that you become very aware of the tourism draw of the place.

The second you step off the tap-tap, every local with a motorcycle will start screaming "Palais...

Palais...". Despite the ordinariness of the town, this was the place Henri Christophe (self-proclaimed King of northern Haiti) decided to build his masterpiece palace. Sans-Souci Palace, or what's left of it, is a pretty cool ruin. The palace was meant to be a showcase of the power and ingenuity of the black race. And it certainly was a site to see. Sadly, King Henri only got to live in it for about 7 years before a stroke led him to commit suicide in the palace, and his son/heir was killed by revolutionaries only a few days later. Depressingness aside, the roughly 200 year old building isn't even the main attraction in the area.

Instead, it's a nearby marvel which shares the UNESCO listing with the palace that totally steals
the limelight. The cherry on the top of this cultural listing is, in actuality, a fortress on a hill. The Citadelle Laferrière is referred to by locals as the 8th wonder of the world. The MASSIVE structure is depicted on local currency, stamps, postcards and pretty much every other shop in northern Haiti. Built around the same time as the Sans-Souci Palace, the citadel has held up remarkably well. This is probably due to the fact that, despite being a cornerstone of establishing security during the time of independence, the citadel never actually saw battle. Although, a history of earthquakes have not be so kind to the battlements.

The views from the citadel are amazing. And why wouldn't they be after an 11km trail leading up

to the 900+ meter peak where the fort is perched. And there is no question that numbers will impress... 365 massive canons... walls 40 metres high and 3 metres thick... 10,000 m2 of area... enough food & water storage for 5,000 troops for a year... But one can't help think of the estimated 20,000 workers and the 15 years it took for them to built the giant structure in (let's just say) less than ideal working conditions.

I'll be the first to admit it, i became travel jaded a long time ago. It's hard not to be. I've been to

well over 100 countries (i've lost count), i've seen the oldest and the biggest and the highest and the most ornate of almost every kind of attraction you can think of. These days, I typically walk past a cathedral or Central Plaza that would normally be a highlight in most other travel itineraries. While Sans-Souci Palace was a bit blasé, I was certainly impressed by Citadelle Lafferiere. The fact that few people know about it, and even fewer visit it is absolutely astounding to me. Who cares about some overcrowded, mediocre beach in the Dominican Republic? Hop the border to Haiti and rediscover a real attraction on the island of Hispaniola.

Survivin' Salvador

2015-10-03T15:47:00.001+05:00

Major cities in Brazil, like Rio or Sao Paolo, have a rather notorious reputation for violence. But there is a place that even locals in these major cities fear. If you mention to a hotelier or restauranteur that you're going to Salvador... and they freeze in their tracks. "Oh my God! Be careful!! It's very dangerous there!!!" Of course mentioning, "It's ok, I live in Caracas" it would somewhat mollify their anxiety. However, with overcautious guidebooks finally agreeing with nervous locals, my interest in Salvador was certainly piqued.

Dating back to 1549, Salvador was actually the first colonial capital of Brazil. What that

means for tourists is there is a wonderful old city complete with towering cathedrals, pastel building and cobblestoned pedestrian streets to wander around. There are a myriad of hotels, restaurant and tour agencies to satisfy most tourist needs. However (and here's why folks warn you about the place) Salvador is also home to one of Brazil's highest murder counts and listed in the top 20 murder rates in the world. Some statistics even show an explosion of violence of over 400% over the last decade. It's no joke.

With that said, the local government, trying to stay on the tourism gravy train, is doing its best to maintain some sense of security. There are 24/7 police on literally every corner in the old city and the beach/shopping area. Cameras track your every move. If it weren't for all the tourists, I'd think I was in a police state.

But life goes on. while Salvador may not have the laid-back feel of other parts of the country,

you can't hold back the Brazilian joy for life. There are plenty of festivals and random processions to stumble upon. With that said, i found Salvador a little boring. With such a highly concentrated tourist area, it's tough to get away from the crowds. The tourist market is a joke. The beaches are very ordinary (although there are trips outside town to some of Brazil's best beaches). Frankly, a few square blocks of, albeit, pretty colonial architecture can only hold my interest for so long.

I can often measure my interest in a place by the number and variety of pictures I took.

Looking through my Salvador folder, there weren't that many pics to choose from. Colonial Salvador is pretty. It's arguably one of the major highlights of Brazil. The problem is, I'm just not the type of traveller who enjoys being penned up in a little corral like a sheep. And that's the feeling i got from Salvador. I'm not saying avoid the city, on the contrary it's probably a place not to be missed. But I left feeling a little empty. It's not what I expected.

Sweeter, Paolo's may Vary

2015-09-21T01:30:00.000+05:00

Brazil has done a pretty good job at branding itself with iconic imagery. Whether it's beaches, jungle or parties, we have some sort of picture in our heads when we hear the word "Brazil". However, "Business City" or "Cultural Capital" are unlikely to be included in this knee-jerk association test. But why not? Brazil's business and cultural capital, São Paolo, has a lot to offer.

Ok, I'll admit it, São Paolo lacks the visual appeal of Rio. There are no dramatic rocky

outcroppings and access to beaches involves a minimum 30 minute drive. This is not a city where stunning half-naked women or chiseled men pop into the local Cafe covered by more sunscreen than actual swimwear. On the surface, São Paolo is just a city with roads and buildings and buses and such, just like any other city. But if you dig a little deeper, São Paolo just might have what you didn't know you were looking for.

São Paolo does a fine job of mixing the old with the modern. A prime example of this is the

Luz Station in the centre of the city. Built over a hundred years ago (remember in the Americas, 100 years is "old") the station manages to mix an old-style architecture with modern transport functionality and there's even a museum to boot. Maybe it's just the traveller in me. I find train stations somehow romantic and nostalgic. Though not a major world wonder or anything, I quite enjoyed the station.

But to really earn the title of 'Culture Capital of Brazil', São Paolo needs a lot more than a cool

train station. And that it has. A dizzying myriad of museums and theatres are scattered around the city; including the central Theatro Municipal. Rumour has it São Paolo has a kick butt social scene. Not just parties and vomiting, but like high-class socialite stuff to do. Sadly, as i was visiting São Paolo during Christmas... the theatres and most of the museum were closed (sad face).

São Paolo has sooooo much more. Formula 1 races... its own Carnival... fashion weeks...

food festivals... and so on and so on. Sadly, as i was visiting São Paolo during Christmas... none of this stuff was on. So, i had to settle for the São Paolo Municipal Market. It turned out to be not a bad place to end up. Sure the restaurants are overcrowded (especially on a holiday or weekend), but you don't really need to buy anything to eat. Just walking up and down the aisles, taking in the mind-boggling array of scents and smells, you'll put on 5kg.
If all hustle and bustle ain't your thang (sorry), then do like the locals and head to the park.

Walking... cycling... roller-blading... little-red-wagoning... Whatever "ing" you're into, Ibirapuera Park's got it going on. It's a big place with lots to see and do. There's an auditorium and a museum and a botanical something or other... but who cares. Just sit. Chill. Take a load off and watch São Paolo happen. Though not a brass as Rio's catwalk-beach scene, São Paolo puts on its own peacocking park outfit bonanza.

Look, São Paolo's got a lot going on for itself. It does get a bit of a bad rap for being dangerous. But let's face it, Latin America 14 of the top 20 countries with the highest murder rates, Brazil included. But as long as you have of ounce of common sense, any aware traveller will be just fine.

I was pleasantly surprised by São Paolo. And I think anyone else who goes will be equally surprised. São Paolo ain't half bad. With that said, if i were on a once-in-a-lifetime holiday and I had to pick between São Paolo and "that other famous city", I'd probably go to the other place. But if you can figure in São Paolo into your travels, you won't be disappointed.

Rollin' Down to Rio

2015-05-03T20:06:00.000+05:00

Where do i even start? I tend to explore regions of the globe rarely seen by tourists. More often than not, i am one of the few (if not only) traveller in town. But every once and a while i go mainstream. I'm used to writing about places no one really knows about, and perhaps hearing about for the first time. Rio de Janeiro is not one of those places.

There are a few "world capitals". These iconic cities which are leaps and bounds ahead of their regional brethren. New York, London, Istanbul or Tokyo instantly jump into mind if thinking about their respective continents. When it comes to South America, nothing compares to Rio. Culture, beauty, landmarks or nightlife, whatever it is that floats your boat, Rio's got it.

So, Rio's got beaches. It's got a bunch of them. But, for the most part, locals and tourists alike head one of two of the big beaches: Copacabana and Ipanema. On a weekend, or God forbid a holiday, these beaches are packed to the rafter with some of the most beautiful people on Earth in a competition to wear as little as legally possible. But the beaches are crowded, noisy and not as pristine was one might hope.

Rio's also got a statue. 90 years ago a couple guys built a 30 meter tall statue on Corcovado mountain. They called it Cristo Redentor and now it's supposedly on of the New Seven Wonders of the World. It's a nice statue and all, but hardly compares to The Leshan Buddha. The views from Corcovado are nice, but you can get similar views in many parts of the city. It is incredibly crowded, and totally overpriced. Frankly, I was not impressed at all.

Rio has also got a cable car. Sugarloaf mountain juts out into the sea taking up a dominant place on the Rio shoreline. Naturally, you'd want to exploit something like that. And that's what they did. You wait in line for ages to overpay for a ride to mid station where there is little more than tacky fast-food shops and super expensive souvenir stores. Then, you get to wait in line some more to get the next cable car to the top. Yes, the views are very nice, especially around sunset. But, again, you're fighting crowds and emptying your pockets. I was not terribly impressed.

Here's the thing, Rio's got free stuff too. I know everyone wants a photo with their
arms mimicking the big statue or is too lazy and needs a cable car. But for those willing to sweat it out for 40 minutes or so, a hike up the Dos Irmaos is worth it. Despite visiting around Christmas at peak climbing hour, there were really many other people on the top with me. Not only are there great (and free) views over Ipanema, but the ride through and views of the surrounding fevela (slum) offer an interesting perspective as well.

Rio's got non-mountain related stuff too. You could check out the funky Escadaria Selaron. A

bohemian-esque tiled stairway in a funky area with backpackers and bars. There are free guided tours of the downtown area with plenty of photogenic buildings to check out like churches and theatres and banks and libraries and stuff. I quite liked the Royal Portuguese Library, although it feels a little strange going to a museum to look at book. The interior is wonderful although most of it seems closed off (at least at the time of writing)

Failing all that, Rio's also got parks. While Rio might not be the most green city ever, there

are plenty of green spaces to check out. While most seem to head to the botanical gardens, i opted for the Parque Lage. Previously a private estate of a wealthy industrialist and his actress wife, the grounds of the park are lovely. Easy hiking trails lead around wonderful period buildings or through the tress or to fish ponds. And for those wanting a challenge, the start of the trail to the Corcovado starts here. This was actually one of my favourite parts of the city.

I feel like i've been listing things, yet haven't even scratched the surface. I'm no usually a fan of popular destinations and mass tourism makes me queasy, but it's hard not to like Rio. It's got something for pretty much everyone, it's got famous stuff and free stuff. If you're looking for a 5* getaway or of rough-and-tumble commune with funky locals, Rio's got it. Heck, i'd even go so far as to say, Rio is a place i'd go back to. Now isn't that saying something?

Lawrence of Guiana

2015-04-21T19:26:00.000+05:00

Every Hell has its guards. And while Hades had Cerberus, the not-so-ficticious hell of the Iles de Salud also had its gatekeeper. 10s of thousand of prisoners were sent to the colony of French Guiana to unburden mainland France from the cost of maintaining them. But, before they got to Iles de Salud, the first port of call was St. Laurent du Maroni.

Modern day St. Laurent du Maroni is nothing to get too excited about (i guess it wasn't back

in the day either). Sure... it sits on a the delta of the Maroni river and that's kind of nice. Ok... there's a bustling market on weekends. Alright, there's a church or whatever. And i guess, any overland traveller will have to at least pass through St. Laurent as it's where the "ferry terminal" is to cross over to Suriname. There are even a couple half-assed nature camps in the area which is actually where I stayed (cool CouchSurf). But even if you add up all these factors, they wouldn't really be enough to draw travellers to town. But hat St. Laurent lacks in modern day pizazz, it more than makes up for in gruesome history.

The French found it difficult to dump its prisoners directly to the Iles du Salud, so they opted for a

mainland dump. That dump, established in 1858, was the Camp de la Transportation (oddly enough the town itself wasn't established until 1880). This prison camp was little more than a stopping ground for most, few people stayed here very long. It doesn't mean they didn't get their fair share of Hell. Torture was common. Executions were public. Death was all around. It wasn't until 1946, when the French penal system was abolished, did the prison actually close down. While the prison at St. Laurent didn't feel as heavy as someplace like Auschwitz, it is still a place of sadness.

Getting into the, now, museum can be a chore. Tours are scheduled (tours 8am, 9:30am, 11am, 3pm & 4:30pm Mon-Sat, 9:30am & 11am Sun) and are seemingly mandatory. I, however, did not want to wait nor take the extended tour. Luckily, for a couple Euros, the guide offered to give me a quick run through on my own so i could snap some pics and get a feel for the place. For me, that really was enough to fill my desolation for me for the day as I needed to catch a ferry back to Suriname.

Frankly, Camp de la Transportation pales in comparison to Iles du Salud. Not to mention a similar camp in Central Europe would see few visitors. But in an attraction deficient Guianas region, St. Laurent is pretty much a must-see.

Hauntin' Memories

2015-03-03T03:28:00.000+04:00

Mankind has a history of doing some pretty bad crap to each other. Wars, genocides, torture... Sometimes humans are not very nice to other humans. There's a place just 11km off the coast of French Guiana which is a standing testament to such unniceness: The Islands of Salvation (or Iles du Salut in French)

Back in the day (circa 1763), after some battles and treaties and such,

France finally gained control of the area now known as French Guiana. Settlers were lured there with the promise of easy riches, ripe for the picking. But... it wasn't quite like that. As a matter of fact, French Guiana really sucked. The regional indigenous tribes, the Amerindians, were very aggressive and, as an added bonus, disease hit the area something fierce. Damn near everyone died. The survivors said "screw this, we're heading off shore." They came to 3 small islands, 11 kilometres off the coast. It turned out not to be paradise (no beaches, terrible currents, hot as f***), but it was way better than the mainland. It earned its name of the Islands of Salvation.

Jump ahead around 100 years, French Guiana and the Iles du Salut have changed dramatically.

With the abolition of slavery in France, the local economy collapsed without the free labour. French Guiana needed to serve some sort of purpose to the Motherland, so France decided "Hey, we got a place were damn near everyone dies... Let's send our worst convicts there". Convicts were shipped into the port of St. Laurent du Moroni, and if they were one of the lucky few who lived thus far into the trip, they were moved on to

end their journey (and more often than not end their lives too) on the Iles du Salut. The most famous of the island's guests was Papillon writer Henri Cherierre. Prison conditions here were horrible. Disease was rampant. The hospital was more of a morgue than a place of healing. While numbers are tough to pin down, most estimates say 80,000 people died here. If 'hauntings' are real, then this place would have some seriously pissed off ghosts. It was hell on Earth.

These days, it's a picnic grounds. Both locals and the handful of international travellers

catamaran their way to the islands. Some just want to dip their toes in the ocean (remember the crazy currents), some come to picnic and a very few stay the night. That's right, the island that was the grave of 10s of thousands making it the ideal setting for a Wes Craven horror film, has been converted into a hotel/restaurant. The place is horribly over-priced (even for French Guiana), but i guess you're paying for the experience. You can swing in a hammock in the halls, stay in the officers' building or the guard's quarters. I couldn't help it. Every time my flash went off as I wandered around taking photos in the dark, i thought "Please don't let there be a ghost..."

Pretty much every tourist to French Guiana (all 124) will end up on the Iles du Salut. This is a big reason most come to this part of the world to begin with. It certainly is an interesting day-trip and a cool (but over-priced) overnight. I say, if you're coming all the heck to way to French Guiana anyway, why wouldn't you shell out the extra couple Euros to stay? Besides, who doesn't want to go to sleep with the nagging feeling you will likely be murdered in your sleep by a homicidal vampire-zombie-prison guard-ghost? Sweet dreams.

Spiceless Cayenne

2014-11-24T05:53:00.001+04:00

I quite like Europe. Who doesn't? With some of the most spectacular cities, landmarks, history and food to be found anywhere on Earth, it's easy to see why so many tourists flock there. Of course, you get what you pay for. Europe ain't cheap. Luckily, South America (relatively speaking) is on the cheap side. So what happens when you drop a bit of the E.U. into South America...? South American standards at European prices.

French Guiana is a French territory in South America. It's citizens have French passports,

they speak French, they use Euros... this isn't France-like, it is France. Back in the day, Guyane (as it's known locally) was France's attempt at a staging post to settle the region. Thing is, pretty much everyone died due to the horrible conditions. So, France decided, "if it's not good enough for settlers, let's send criminals", and the area became a dumping ground for France's prison bound citizens (more on this in later blogs). Today's capital, Cayenne, is an almost inevitable stop for the handful of tourists that make it to this remote corner of the globe.

The thing is, someone needs to tell the locals that while Guyane is technically part of France,

it is by no means French standards. To my absolute shock (actually i had done my research and expected it) Cayenne was CRAZY expensive. The cheapest room i could find anywhere near the centre was €60! Now if i were visiting Paris, that would be one thing. But in this dump, the shower leaked, the tv only had 6 channels (all French), the WiFi didn't reach the room and there was literally a mushroom growing in the room. €60??? And the ridiculous overpricing didn't stop there. Food, transport, entertainment and any other basics were at or even above European prices. Unbelievable!!

Now it would be one thing if there was something in town to warrant the expensive visit.

But Cayenne is boring as. There are a few colonial buildings, but most are in disarray and the best ones (planned for restoration) are behind tall walls. The people are not particularly friendly. The weather is unbearable. And did i mention it's expensive? There are a couple of beaches in the area, but they're hardly spectacular. On the bright side, if you're there at the right time of year, you can see nesting sea turtles. The one saving grace of the town is the market where you can get a "cheap" bowl of Vietnamese Pho. But it's still not much of a market, especially when compared to Stabroek Market in Georgetown.

I did not like Cayenne. I have no desire to go back to Cayenne. I do not recommend visiting Cayenne. Sure, if you want to check it off some travel list to regale other travellers during bragging competitions, go for it. Otherwise, save your money and go anywhere else on Earth!

My Crossings to Bear

2014-11-17T07:48:00.000+04:00

Maybe it's just me. Somehow, i seem to remember that crossing a border actually meant something. It was some sort of magical, imaginary line that transported you to a new and exotic land. But these days it feels like more of a chore than a Harry Potter-esque adventure. Whether it's just some airport formality or, even worse, lining up for hours at the Peace Arch to go from Canada or the US, crossing just aren't what they used to be. But travelling trough the Guianas offers something a little different.

Travelling between Guyana, Suriname and French Guiana you quickly come to notice how remote the region is. Some of the least visited countries on Earth means there's really no tourism to speak of. And being being coastal countries with expansive waterways it seems only natural to forget about building a bridge and simply use a ferry. This means crossing borders in the Guianas means crossing a river.

There are 2 basic options: scheduled big ferry or zippy little speedboat. Catching

the big ferries is actually a bit of a pain. There are obviously far more people around, so there lots of hurrying up just to wait. Sadly, it's a bit of a necessary evil as taxis and buses really only come to meet the 2 ferries a day. None of the border towns are places you want to hang out longer than absolutely necessary. And God forbid if you aren't the first person off the ferry at the other side. Good gravy.... the lines can be long. But even still, the short jaunt across the river is pleasant (as long as it's not raining) There might even be a chance to spot a river otter or 2.

Alternatively, you can hop on one of the little speed boats that line the immigration area.

Not only do they make the crossing more quickly, but they leave pretty much immediately and you won't have to wait in the immigration line at the other side. Sure they're more expensive, but it might just be worth it. Frankly, these river crossing are not a "100 things to do before you die" kind of thing. What they are is something just a little bit different. When travel starts to become routine or ordinary, sometimes an experience which is just a tiny bit different can make a big difference.

Capital Paramour

2014-11-09T23:04:00.000+04:00

In theory, it is best practice not to prejudge. Going somewhere with preconceived conceptions will more often than not taint the actuality of an experience. One advantage of travelling to remote locations where few others go is there's really no information out there to besmirch the good name of a place. Suriname is one of the least visited countries on Earth, so i really had no idea what to expect of its capital, Paramaribo.

The first thing you notice is it's hot... damn hot. As a fat, hairy Canadian i dare say too hot. The town is littered with casinos, bringing with them all the negative aspects of immorality and sinfulness. As soon as i arrived, i was ready to leave. But then, we drove into the UNESCO listed Historic Inner City. The dutch colonial town is a white-washed departure from the rest of the city. Verandas and pillars hem in the streets in a throwback to a time long since past. This is a different Paramaribo, and an absolute gem.

Beyond the multi-storeyed houses, the town has several other architectural highlights.

The town hall, complete with lighthouse-esque tower, is just one building surrounding the central park. The presidential palace and other buildings make for a nice 360 spin around the park. Just across the street, the old fort and surrounding post office and other building have a feeling of colonial Williamsburg or similar theme park. It's not really spectacular, but it is in many ways, the best capital in the region.

Besides the old town, there isn't really much other than the casinos to check out.

The market was touted as being "incredibly exotic" or "chaotic". However, if compared to the awesome Stabroek Market in Georgetown (Guyana) or some of the Laotian markets in French Guiana, the one in Paramaribo was quite ordinary. There are, of course, a smattering of typical churches and even atypical mosques and synagogues (right next to each other). But they're nothing you wouldn't see in almost any other capital. Did i mention it was hot? It's tough to get motivated to wander around exploring when your shoes get all squishy from the sweat. Heck, you sweat off a couple pounds just crossing the street to get your 14th bottle of water.

On the bright side, the river does make for a natural cooler as the sun starts to go down. And with the few expat herded into a rather small area or town, there is a surprisingly good range of restaurants to eat at. While pricey, you can find value for money at several of the smaller eateries. It may seem counter-medical research, but nothing helps rehydrate more than a giant bottle of Parbo beer!

Besides the capital, i found it difficult to get motivated to see anything else in Suriname. While it is renowned for its eco-tourism, the extortionate prices will simply way out of my price range and impossible to justify. The are better and much cheaper trips in Venezuela, Colombia, Ecuador and pretty much anywhere else. While i liked Paramaribo, i was highly disappointed with Suriname. It was easily my least favourite of the 3 Guyanas.

Goin' with Plan 'D'

2014-10-13T07:15:00.000+05:00

They say, "Getting there is half the fun." Quite often this is true. As the great sage Miley Cyrus would say, it ain't about what's on the other side, it's the climb. But from time to time, a trip has absolutely nothing to do with the destination, instead, it's all about the journey there. I had no intention of visiting Lethem, Guyana. Yet, due to a wild set of circumstances, that's exactly where i ended up.

Venezuela is an absolute mess. For reasons far too numerous to get into in a simple travel blog, let's just say the economy is in a free fall melt down. For travellers, the greatest impact can be seen in the fact that airlines have all but stopped coming to the country, as they are unable to exchange any money made in the country into foreign currency due to government currency controls. All i wanted was to visit neighbouring Guyana. One would think a land crossing would be easy enough, but the rather long border does not have a single, legal border crossing. The only flight between the 2 countries (Puerto Ordaz-Georgetown with Conviasa) is impossible to book. The ferry which once went to Trinidad & Tobago has long since ceased. Not o be deterred, i managed to find a flight to Aruba, from where i could connect to Guyana. Sadly, due to institutionalized corruption throughout the country, my seat was sold to someone on a waiting list before i even got to the airport. With no other possibility of a flight, i was left with the long overland route through Brazil.

Even trying to get a bus in Venezuela is a Herculean task. There are 2 options: pre-book a ticket weeks in advance at a private terminal, or fight with the masses for a day-of-sale ticket at the public terminals. Having been previously stranded in Ciudad Bolivar for days trying to fight at a bus station, i wasn't looking forward to a crack of dawn mad rush at the remote Occidental Terminal in Caracas, so i tried my luck at a private one in my neighbourhood. By some miracle of miracles i managed to get the last seat on a night bus leaving the same day to Puerto Ordaz, a city half way to my destination, the Brazilian border. And to double the luck, the schedule would have me arriving at 5 or 6am, just in time to fight for seats to Santa Elena de Uairen on the border itself. Unfortunately, that's where the luck ran out. Half way into our 10 hour journey, the bus broke down (a common occurrence as they are unable to import parts into the country) My arrival was not at 5 am, but at 11. All seats to Santa Elena were sold out. But i was not to be stopped.

Fortunately, the one thing Venezuela is good for is filling in the failings of the system. With few reliable transport options, a sub-systems of "piratas" has emerged. These are random guys with mini-bus type things who hang out at stations waiting for enough stranded people to head out to where the most demand is. The buses are uncomfortable, significantly more expensive than the comfy 'bus camas' (a problem on a 12 hour journey) and being undocumented they are frequently stopped at any and all military checkpoints along the way. Even the most superficial research on travel to Venezuela will show that it is here that foreigners are strip-searched and robbed, not by criminals, but by police looking for hard currency. But with no other options, i had to try my luck on a 'pirata' hoping to avoid 'piratas' in military uniforms.

Blessed yet again by the travel Gods, i was not strip searched. Instead, the 12-hour trip went off surprisingly well despite the blaring music and rock-hard bench seating. I even had enough time to grab breakfast before hoping in a shared taxi for a short hop to the border. Luckily, being privileged with the gift of foresight, i had already secured a visa for Brazil (which Canadians need) weeks before. I knew well not to trust in the reliability of Venezuela. After crossing the border it was only a matter of a shared taxi to Boa Vista (on the Brazilian side) where i could transfer to a 4 hour bus ride to Bonfirm where i swapped for a shared taxi which took my to the Guyanese border town of Lethem. 3 buses... 3 shared taxis... 2 international borders... and nearly 40 straight hours of travel later, i had arrived!

The thing is, Lethem is nothing to write home about. The three dirt roads which comprise the town are lined with warehouse sized shopping centres, hawking cheap Chinese goods to the few cross border shoppers. There is nothing to see or do in town. While a couple farmhouses outside town try to promote themselves as eco-tourism getaways, they are overpriced farm stays. As such, the first place i went was the airport to see when the next available flight to Georgetown was. Seeing as i had to wait until the following day, i checked into the least overpriced hotel for me first shower in days and the first nights sleep in a bed for ages. The journey, at least for 1 night, was over.

Zoomin'... Zoomin'... Zoomin' Down the River

2014-10-05T21:35:00.000+05:00

Yes... i liked Guyana. I actually quite liked it. However, in terms of actual touristic type stuff to do, there isn't really much of that. Sure there's Kaieteur Falls, but it's kind of overpriced for a half day tour. OK, there's the nature lodges, but you can stay in the Amazon elsewhere for half the price. Georgetown is kind of funky, but it only has half a day of 'real' highlights. So with some time to kill, i headed up river to the village of Bartica.

Roads suck in Guyana. There's no denying it. Sure, they're better than they used

to be, but that doesn't make them "good". So, for a country rich in river ways, ferries just make sense. There are the big, slow vehicle ferries, but the best way to get around are the speedboats. I wasn't sure how the trip would go with off-putting guidebooks words like "bone jarring" but i actually found it quite the opposite. While sure, skipping over the occasional wake might make a window seat into a SeaWorld-esque splash zone, the ride is surprisingly comfortable.

The scenery is nothing really to write home about. It's not really a jungle adventure where you're hemmed in by thick virgin rainforest. Instead, most of the riverside vegetation has been clear-cut and makeshift docks with rotting ships litter the banks. But it's still a pleasant trip.

So, logic would dictate, if it isn't the journey that's the highlight, it must be the destination.

Well, that's not entire true either. Bartica is a sleepy little village with 8 streets (only 1 of interest). There aren't any architecturally significant sites or spectacular views. It's just a village. While true, you could pay through the nose to visit a old Dutch fort (actually only the gate) a little further upriver, as a solo traveller it just wasn't in the budget. About the only thing to do was walk around for 8 and a half minutes and find a place for lunch. Hardly a thrill-a-miute life changing adventure.

I suppose if the journey is ordinary and the destination is boring, it would certainly mean it's just a cheap getaway. Unfortunately, this just isn't the case. At a set (non-negotiable) 2,500 GYD (US$12) each way on the ferry, plus the mini-bus from Stabroek market in Georgetown to Parika, it makes for a $30+ day trip. Although even the most basic of research would reveal Guyana is not a budget destination.

Perhaps it was just the fact that i travelled by boat (which i don't do so often) Maybe it comes down to the feeling of being the only tourist in town. It could just be going off-the-beaten track in a place that's already way off-the-beaten track. But i enjoyed my day out to Bartica. I'm not sure i'd recommend it to those on a time crunch, but i'm glad i went.

A Recoverin' Kaieteur-a-Fallic

2014-08-25T08:57:00.001+05:00

That's it. I need help. Please tell me there's some kind of support group for WA -- Waterfallics Anonymous. Not only have i handed over countless US$ to visit falls around the world, but i have sacrificed a great deal of blood, sweat and tears in Herculean effort to see them. And what's the point? Most of them are exactly the same, and some are downright terrible (like El Salto de Limon in Dominican Republic) But every once and a while, there are some falls worth the effort. Kaietuer would fall into the latter category.

I love when places need to keep adding subcategories to a record to try to be number 1. How's
this one? Kaieteur Falls, in western Guyana, claim to be the Highest... Single... Drop... waterfalls in the world. No such thing. The World Waterfall Database does have a "single drop" category, but ranks the 226 meter drop of the falls as #134. But who am I to ruin a good misinformation campaign? Either way, the falls are pretty. Best part is that while there are some half-hearted warnings from the guide to stand 3 meters from the edge, there are no guard rails in this part of the world. Get as close as you dare!! Get too close and it won't matter if it's #134, it's a long way on an express ride down.

There are 2 ways to get to Kaieteur: an expensive, arduous, sweaty, muggy week-long hike,

or a short, easy flight from Georgetown. Damn right, i flew! At the time of writing, Air Services Limited had the best deal in town at 29,000GYD. A guide meets you at the plane to show you around for an hour or so. They provide a tiny bottle of water (bring more) and a sad excuse for a snack (bring more). But what can you expect for the price? If you can, sit on the right of the plane (not the pilot side). It has the better views both arriving at the falls and when leaving.

For the most part, the flight itself is pretty uneventful. Generally speaking, the land is just flat and
green. Miles and miles of flat... and green! But then suddenly it's a scene from Indiana Jones. You enter a canyon with towering walls plastered with (for the most part) virgin forest. Sure there are a couple mining or timber camps along the way, but it's pristine enough. The pilot should definitely crank the theme from Jurassic Park or something. It almost feels like an adventure. That is, except for all the tourists. But i remained hopeful that a T-Rex would eat them all. It feels like the sort of place where it could actually happen.

Fact is, Kaietuer is expensive. And it's in a country that's expensive to get to. If you've got the extra cash, go for it. But if trying to pick just one, Angel Falls blows Kaietuer out of the water. For the same amount of money you pay for the half-day trip to Kaietuer, you can go to Venezuela and see Angel Falls 3 days/2 nights, all flights, accommodation, food and guides paid for. Angel Falls wins hands down for value and awesomeness. Still, Kaietuer is really nice. And it's got a classic photo op of standing on that rock with no guardrails and nothing but 226 meters of mist before a sudden stop.

A hot cup of G-Town

2014-08-24T08:55:00.000+05:00

It's not really on the way to anywhere, it's sort of at the end of the world. Getting here is either wearing or pricey. It doesn't really have any famous monuments to visit. It's as hot as H-E-(double hockey sticks). It is not only expensive, but slightly overpriced. It's dirty. It sometimes smells rather foul. And it has a reputation for being dangerous. This, for some, could sum up to a rather unappealing place to visit. But for me, i freakin' loved Georgetown.

Ask most people where Guyana is and they might guess... Africa. According to the World Bank,
Guyana (formerly known as British Guiana) is one of the 25 least visited countries on Earth (top 10 if you take away island nations). It's just over 40 years old as an independent nation with Georgetown as it's capital. Georgetown is a bizarre Afro-carribean/Amerindian/British fusion. It's where reggae meets high tea. Various architectural gems are scattered throughout the town, but High Street is a glorious living museum of unique buildings, homelessness and honking cars. This city is definitely alive.

Without question, the absolute jewel in the crown is the magnificent Stabroek Market.

Dating back more than 150 years, this is the heart of the city in more ways than one. The intoxicating aroma of fish, chilli and marijuana fill the labyrinth of stalls selling everything from watches to shoes to... well... marijuana. But more than just a place to buy stuff, Stabroek is where you come to go somewhere else. This is the main terminus for mini-buses to to all parts of the city and beyond. It's also the main port where not only cargo ships but large ferries and faster speed boats whisk passengers away to parts up river. It is is where it's all happening.

There are plenty of other cool buildings to check out. The 1894 St. George Cathedral claims to be

one of the tallest wooden churches in the world. It's nice and all, but there are so many cool buildings in town. The Georgetown City Hall (title picture) is something straight out of Disney. Half shiny castle, half grimy haunted house, it's a treasure. Along the sewage canal, you can see the High Court or St. Andrew's Kirk or any other number of funky buildings. Plus, there are a handful of lovely houses (now embassies) on the way to the Sea Wall. While Georgetown might lack 1 specific grand sight to see, it has a whole bunch of cute ones instead. Close enough.

If indoors ain't your thing, you could always try the SeaWall. Georgetown is largely below

sea level. A large dyke-turned-promanade plus a series of canals through the city keep the townsfolk from having to swim to work at high tide. The dyke is now THE place to be as the sun goes down. The cooling sea breeze almost makes you forget you sweated off 5kgs just walking here from downtown. Unfortunately, the "beach" is filthy and smells kind of bad. A new hotel development is looking to make some huge changes, even importing white sand to make their own damn beach!! It was suggested that the SeaWall is not the safest of places once the sun goes down.

Georgetown makes a fair effort of trying to be green. I don't mean it's into recycling (God forbid).

Instead treed off pedestrian areas cut through main thoroughfares. And parks... there are plenty of those. Popular with families in the late afternoon, the parks are a great place for people watching. Failing that, several of the parks have manatee pools where the gentle sea cows will literally eat out of your hand. But buildings, seawalls and parks are not what make Georgetown.

Georgetown and Guyana as a whole are all about the people. Friendly, fun-loving and generally

authentic are just a few words that pop into mind when describing the people of Guyana. Pretty much everyone i met, from taxi driver to shop attendant, made an effort to welcome me, something rare in these days of mass tourism. I was even lucky enough to find myself in the middle of Guyana's Emancipation Day. There were some magnificent clothes on show for the occasion as everyone (mostly the women) were dressed to the nines. And while the white guy in the sweat soaked t-shirt kind of stood out in the crowd, i somehow felt welcomed.

I get it. Most people won't exactly fall in love with Georgetown. Actually, the few tourists i met in the region were even avoiding Guyana as a whole. Such a shame! Georgetown is BY FAR the most interesting capital in the region. Plug your nose and don't carry to much cash, this place won't be hidden for long.

A Tomb with a View

2014-07-07T06:40:00.001+05:00

Since when did the act of casting a vote in an election become tantamount to some sort of cult initiation? I kind of get how back in the Dark Ages an uneducated and untravelled populous could somehow buy the line of their leader being sent from God. But how does it still happen today? While i've seen the physical remnants of Lenin, Ho Chi Minh and Mao, it was Turkmenistan's devotion to Turkmenbashi which took the cake. And while Venezuela is a few rungs down the ladder from total goo-goo-gaa-edness, it's not that far behind.

Hugo Chavez rocketed to mass popularity in 1998. At the time, Venezuela was an

absolute basket case. 100% inflation, mass poverty... since his death in 2013, Venezuela has become an even worse basket case with soaring inflation, the highest murder rate in the world and unrealistic currency controls. But i'm not here to talk about the politics. While Chavez, the man, can be quite polarizing, i'm actually quite indifferent. I fully understand why the current ruling party wants to ride his coattails as long as they can, building a religious mythology around his memory. I will never understand why people buy into it. I visited the make-shift shrine at the Cuartel de la Montaña in central Caracas where the former leader has been laid to rest. Seeing people weeping uncontrollably, losing the ability to walk as they walk past the sarcophagus or the countless pictures of him seemingly mugging old women, is beyond me. Perhaps that's why i'm not religious myself.

From a tourism perspective, the actual shrine itself is quite ordinary. It certainly

lacks to pizzazz of Lenin, Mao or Ho Chi Minh's tombs. But, the views from the converted military fort are probably worth the trip up itself. Sadly, you can only visit the fort and tomb as part of a tour (free of charge). The fort, Cuartel de la Montaña is alright, was built in 1906. But, even as a museum, much of it is closed off to the public. Do keep in mind though, the neighbourhood (23 de Enero) is not a great one. It's best not to wander too far from the fort itself.

Now if the deification of one leader is just not enough, you're in luck as Caracas has a second

one. In the centre of town, in a very bizarre looking ramp-like extension on the Pantheon of Caracas houses the remains of who Venezuelans call, "the Great Liberator". Credited with leading the battles which put an end to Spanish rule just over 200 years ago, Bolivar is not only a national hero in Venezuela, but much of South America. Once you get over the "unique" external architecture, the mausoleum is actually quite nice (nicer than Chavez', but don't tell anyone) Plus the adjoining church is possibly the most ornate in the city.

Perhaps dead people aren't your thing, who am i to judge? But in the largely attraction-less city of Caracas, dead people are possibly the biggest draws. I wouldn't say sacrifice time elsewhere in Venezuela to come to the capital. But seeing as it's more often than not a necessary evil (it has the biggest airport), perhaps your own worship at the shrines of heros might be in order.

Wastin' Away on Margarita

2014-06-28T22:15:00.000+05:00

Living in Venezuela, there is surprisingly little to do in terms of interesting travel. Since i get (mostly) paid in local currency, most tours are simply unaffordable. Trying to access places like the Amazon are pretty much impossible by yourself. And public transport is substandard when trying to get anywhere "off-the-beaten" path. The means the only thing accessible and affordable is the beach. That's all anyone does here. That's all they talk about. I think i've made myself pretty clear over the years that i'm not a fan of beaches. If it's not a world class, pristine, magnificent beach, then it's just a bunch of sand next to water. Boring. The problem with islands, is they're surrounded with beaches. Also boring. But if you speak to any Venezuela, the Mecca for beach holiday getaways is Margarita Island. Out of nothing more than sheer peer pressure i had to visit.

With all that said, my opinion may be interpreted as biased. So, let me quote the Lonely Planet which tends to overhype everything; "While Isla de Margarita itself has some of the country's best beaches and enjoys a dramatic, mountainous interior to boot, its unchecked development, traffic-clogged roads and creeping urban sprawl has made something of a joke out of its tropical paradise reputation... if you come expecting a Caribbean idyll, you'll be disappointed." Geographically, the island is kind of ugly. It's largely flat, arid scrubland. The beaches are ordinary at best, most of which are actually unattractive and dirty. To top it off, it's overpriced and service is generally poor.

I wanted, at the very least, to get away from the tourist scene, so i headed to the lesser

visited northern shore and the town of JuanGriego. The town is just that... a town. It's a place where people drop their kids off at school, go to work, stop by the supermarket and go home. But this is not why the tourists don't come. The beach in town is very ordinary. It's mostly a fishing port, so an endless obstacle course of mooring lines cut into the already stunted beach line. Normally, this might mean a happening fish market, but not here. There is, however, one of Margarita's few Spanish forts, Fortin de la Galera. And the town is heralded as one of the best places to watch the sunset. But even JuanGriego was over-priced. A simple, run down shoebox of a room was 600 BsF. At the official rate, that's almost $100 a night!!! I've paid far less for far better in the country.

So i figured, 'to heck with it'. If i'm going to be overcharged for something ordinary, i

might as well go all in. I headed to the other side of the island and the much hyped El Yaque. But this was not just the other side of the island, it was a totally different world. While JuanGriego is a town with bustle local life, El Yaque is completely fake. This is not a village who won the beach lottery, it is instead the result of developers seeing dollar signs. There is no local life here, just hotels. But there not even 5-star cater to your every whim kind of places, just incredibly overpriced buildings. While the 600 BsF was pricey in JuanGriego,

the cheapest place i could find in El Yaque was 1,500 BsF. That's nearly $250!!!!!!! The big draw of El Yaque is the wind. It has become a beacon of windsurfing and kitesurfing enthusiasts. But what that means is the sea is choppy and the sand becomes little mini projectiles which adhere to sunscreen. While the beach might score a 6/10, the fact that it's littered with bottle caps, watermelon shards and plastic bags makes it closer to a 3/10. El Yaque is among the best the island has to offer, and it's very ordinary.

There are some islands which do have more than just beaches to offer, but Margarita i

not one of them. Possibly the biggest attraction is the Basilica de Nuestra Señora del Valle which in English is just some other church. Inside, though, is an icon of the patron saint of not only Margarita, but most of coastal Venezuela. Rumour has it that once upon a time a carving of the Virgin was the only thing that survived a massive storm on another island. That ensured its holiness and it was moved to Margarita. Other than that... there's a marshland which you can take a mini-boat ride in. The western part of the island is supposed nice, but with no public transport and unaffordable private transport (for a single travellers earning BsF) there's really nothing else of interest on the island.

On the bright side, if you're willing to exchange foreign currency on the illegal black market in Venezuela, Margarita can be a steal. Flight from Caracas for only $20.... the best hotel room (that's not saying much) for only $50... private transport for $15... then.. ok... i might be worth it. However, if you are earning Bolivar and have to spend half a months wages for a weekend on Margarita, it is absolutely not worth it. Locals always rave about what they know, which is often only their own small world. With soooooo many MUCH better destinations in the Caribbean, why would anyone actually choose Margarita? I certainly won't be going back.