Joe's Trippin'

I Don't Want a Freakin' Camel Ride!!!!!!

2012-01-25T13:17:00.011+04:00

Alright, I all makes perfect sense. Several 5,000 year old geometric shapes in the middle of a desert are an undeniable tourism draw. A culture of trading will most certainly continue a trend of trying to get the best price for their wares. Sadly, uniformed buyers throughout the ages have paid whatever local merchants have asked, as they are clueless about local economic valuation. These are all logical. I totally understand how and why and who. But that does NOT mean i want a freaking camel ride around the pyramids!!!!!

I have been to Cairo a few times now. And from the second i stepped off the plane several years ago on my first visit, i serious disliked the place. How is it that airport officials will lie to you saying "It's impossible to get a taxi for 50 EP, you need to pay the 100 EP for the airport service"? Yet the moment you step outside, you can get 50 EP without even trying. From arrival at the airport to departure Cairo is a messy, noisy, dirty stay full of hassle and lies. Without question, some of the sites available are world class, but i question whether it's all worth it.

I have stood across the road from the Egyptian Museum, waiting a chance to brave the anarchy and chaos that are Cairo roads. "Hello, my brother. Where are you from?" comes the seemingly hospitable greetings of a random local. "Canada." I reply. "Oh really? My brother lives in Canada! What is your job?" he continues. "I am a teacher" i answer, not feeling the need to go into the specific details. "So am I!!! Where you go?" he segways, as we are clearly now soulmates. "I'm heading across the road to the museum" as i state the obvious. "Oh no! The museum is closed today. But i know a private papyrus museum around the corner. Come with me" How stupid does he think i am? I can clearly see tourists entering the building which is merely across the bloody road!!! And how does somebody so boldly and unethically lie so freely right to my face? But this is only a minor example of the crap you put up with in Cairo. I'm not even going to start on the disgusting sexually aggressive behaviour unsurpassed anywhere else in the world.

And then there's the pyramids. Although countless similar structures dot the

general area, pretty much everyone is heading to the Cairo suburb of Giza. Getting there is half the battle. Taxi drivers generally refuse to use a meter (thus giving a fair price), yet will somehow refuse to take you for a negotiated price that is anything less than double. Then, as you approach the Ancient World Wonder, there is an unavoidable stop at the driver's cousins camel stable. "No, my friend. The Pyramids are 15 kms away. It is impossible to walk there. You must pay many entrance fees equalling $50." First of all, i can see the Pyramids, they are 600 meters away. Second, the admission is 60 EP, not $50. Once actually on the grounds of the Pyramids it's impossible to make it more than 10 meters without the constant hassle of someone trying to sell you something. In the event you are foolish enough to agree for XX pounds for a camel ride for you and the wife, at the end of the ride the driver tells you it was British Pounds, not Egyptian pounds and it was the price per person. Liars and cheaters the lot of them.

Admittedly, it is completely unfair to judge an entire population on the actions of a few. On the contrary, i have some amazing Egyptian friends. And in the end, these guys are just trying to make a living. To be fair, if some idiot tourist is willing to pay $50 for a glass souvenir of the pyramids made in China, it's their own damn fault. Sadly, for the average tourist, this is the Egypt you are exposed to. If it wasn't for the fact i had an extended lay-over to some place MUCH better, i wouldn't have gone back to Cairo at all. And i will do everything in my power to ensure i never have to return again.

Harassed in Harar

2012-01-24T00:14:00.018+04:00

They say, "You never get a second chance to make a first impression". But i do my best to give a place the benefit of the doubt. If a first inkling of a place leaves something to be desired, there is something to be said about allowing a place another opportunity to 'wow'. But what if they screw up chance #2. And then chance #3, #4, #5 to #infinity are squandered, perhaps it's time to give up. Such was the case on my visit to Harar in eastern Ethiopia. From the second i arrived to the moment i left, it was nothing but hassle.It all looked good on paper. Harar is a UNESCO listed old city, walled in between the 13th and 16th centuries by the Muslim population to protect (the self proclaimed) 4th holiest city in Islam (actually only holy to Sufis). With over 80 mosques, the city is said to have a uniquely Muslim feel. Although Ethiopia is 65% Christian (various denominations) and 33% Muslim, you never really get a feel for the separation. Added to this, the city is famous for its hyena men (who are not hyena/man hybrids, but men who feed the hyenas). To top it off, although well known in tourist circles, is only a third tier destination after the tribal south and historical north. This means you get an historical city with a unique religious feel with hardly any tourists but plenty of hyena. Sounded right up my alley. That was until i got out of the public mini-bus.

The second i stepped out of the mini-bus, one guy wanted a tip for opening the door (note he only asked me, not the local passengers). Then another guy wanted a tip for getting my bag off the roof. Another guy wanted a tip for catching the bag from the guy on the roof and handing it to me. Then another guy wanted a tip to show me to a hotel when i already knew where it was. Then another guy wanted.... Ahhhhhhh!!! I fought them off and headed to the hotel. After checking out the simple, but cheap (with no water), room i headed back down to reception to pay. In the 2 minutes it took me to look at the room, there was already another "tour guide" willing to offer me his services to walk around the city or show me the hyenas. "Only 200 Birr"! Are you freaking kidding me? That means you earn more than i do!!! I decline as politely as i can while on my last nerve, and head off to explore the old city.

Once actually in the old town, it's kind of nice. The mostly pedestrian alleyways bend and hook in seemingly random directions. It's almost guaranteed that you'll get lost. But it's a walled city, how lost can you get? Kids greet you with "Hellos" but then it's quickly followed by "Money?". I had thought that the concept of responsible tourism had finally sunk in. But there still seem to be morons out there promoting the practice of idiocracy by showering children with pocket money. It does nothing more than encourage a culture of begging and create a reason for truancy for school. There were even pebbles thrown at me when i refused to pay (luckily their aim sucks). Then, once you emerge into a main square, the "tour guides" smell the blood of an unaccompanied foreigner, and circle the wagons. "Hyenas..." "Rimbaud's House..." Perhaps if i had just hired someone for the get-go, i could have avoided the endless hassle.

The one saving grace of the place are the magnificently beautiful women. The promised differences between Muslims and Christians was not immediately apparent as nobody opted for the "I am (insert religion here)" forehead tattoos. But it didn't matter. The wonderfully colourful clothes seemed to sparkle as the women went about the market, bargaining and haggling for dinner supplies. While they are VERY anti-camera, i was lucky my hotel had a balcony overlooking the Christian Market.

Harar was my first Ethiopian town outside Addis. And although i had planned to spend a couple days there, i was left with such an immediate negative impression, that i was ready to leave the next morning for the peace and serenity of Somaliland. Luckily, the rest of Ethiopia was not at all like this. All the beauty and mystery of Harar was lost in the uncomfortable feel of the place. Harar was, without question, my least favourite place in the Ethiopia by a long shot.

La Bella, Lalibela

2012-01-20T20:32:00.019+04:00

Honestly, i almost wept the day the "New 7 Wonders" of the world were announced. How in the hell does the 72nd tallest statue, a mere 80 years old, not even recognized by UNESCO make the list? Or how does a pyramid which is not even the most impressive in it's own country, never mind the world, get the honour? These make it while the largest religious building in the world, Angkor Wat, gets brushed to the sidelines or the cradle of western philosophy, the Acropolis, doesn't make the final grade. And how in the HELL did the magnificent rock-hewn churches of Lalibela not even get mentioned in the whole proceedings?

The village of Lalibela, in Northern Ethiopia, served as the country's capital in the 12th and 13th centuries. The founder and then emperor, St. Gebre Mesqel Lalibela, had visited Jerusalem and, being a devout Christian, was saddened that the holy capital had been captured by Muslims. He was determined to build a new Jerusalem in his homeland of Ethiopia. Endevouring on a mighty project, he began to build a series of churches which eventually numbered 13 churches in 4 different groupings. But what makes these churches so unbelievably spectacular is they were carved out of the rock. Not "of" rock or "on" rock or even on the rock "face", but they are negative rock impressions as the devout builders dug in the rocky mountain terrain. While they may not be as ornate as the buildings at Petra, Jordan, the churches of Lalibela are 3D, not just engravings. And the interiors are larger than the misrepresented hovels of Petra.

True, the rather unattractive awnings put in place to protect the churches is a bit of an eyesore. But the churches are magnificent. While it is not compulsory to take a guide, they sure come in handy navigating the 3 groups (the 4th is kind of far away). Bobbing and weaving in and out of secret passageways and doorways only to emerge at a wonderful building is all part of the jaw dropping experience of Laibela. The Northern group and Eastern group seem to get the most pilgrims (Lalibela is one of the most holy sites in the country who still make pilgrimages there today). But it is, in my opinion, the Western groups Bete Giyorgis (St. George) which is the star of the show. With it's unmistakable cross formation, visible from above it is easily the most impressive of an already impressive site

Arguably, what puts Lalibela heads and shoulders above most other world monuments is the fact it is a living place. Priests and pilgrims still flock to the site, some seemingly as old as the stone churches themselves. No time of the year is more spectacular for people watching than Orthodox Christmas. I timed my visit to be a few days before Christmas itself (as it gets rather busy for Christmas). Spectacularly splendid, being at the churches as the devout arrive is nothing short of magic. Early mornings are filled with the chantings of parishioners as endless rows on rows of draped faithful make their rounds. It is easily one of the best experiences i have ever had.

Now, it would be a safe assumption that such a spectacular site, most certainly on the radar of every traveller in the region, would be sadly ruined by mass tourism. But what is possibly the most amazing thing about Lalibela is it is not. It is common for such a place to become overrun with tourist shops, touts and scammers. Typically, 1 or 2 families (or dominant tribe) will have a monopoly over all goings-on in the village. But Lalibela is different. While tourism is most welcome it is handled with grace. Guides MUST be accredited and "amateurs" are quickly scolded by others if they try their luck. But above all, Lalibela is actually 9 village melded into one. While only 2 of these villages have churches, there is profit sharing among all 9. The pricey ticket, 350 Birr, is valid for 3 days (though few stay that long). While the village is not devoid of hassle (this is Ethiopia after all), it is one of the most hassle-free places in the country.

But the village has more to offer than just a couple of well-managed churches. The lively market in town, although a challenge to walk up and down the slopes, is oodles of fun. Best on Saturdays, it's still a fun place to visit any other day of the week. And for those wanting a bit of an escape, several of the hotels in town offer lovely gardens to lunch in while a myriad of birds vie for attention (Seven Olives is recommended). Views over the wonderful landscape while sipping on a rather strong Ethiopian coffee is a great way to relax after all the sightseeing.

I have, admittedly, become quite jaded over my 20 years and 100+ countries of travel. It is difficult to impress me. I don't know if i got up on the right side of bed, or perhaps my coffee was laced with happy-pills, but i simply cannot say enough about Lalibela. Spectacular buildings, spiritual pilgrims, lovely nature and all of it (relatively) hassle free. Screw the New 7 World Wonders farce, Lalibela is on my 7 wonders list.

Gondar Today, Gone Tomorrow

2012-01-15T20:48:00.014+04:00

Tales of Camelot are ingrained into the minds of nearly every romanticist. The splendour and intrigue, set among the pageantry of castles and courtyards, have made for the setting of novels and scripts throughout the ages. But it always seems a little too true and parables are dismissed (and rightly so) as nothing more than fairy tales. But set in the mountains of northern Ethiopia lies what could possibly be the closest thing to Camelot that has ever graced the Earth, Fasil Ghebbi.

Back in the day, let's say 1636, then Emperor Fasiladas seeing that Gonder had promise, opted to move his capital to the area. And why not? Surrounded by fertile land, on the crossroads of several major trading routes linking the greater region and only a stone's throw from Lake Tana, Gondar was the perfect storm for empire building. And build an empire they did. But as opposed to conquering and exhausting the treasury with pointless battles, Gondar let the riches come to them (for the most part). The little agricultural settlement grew into a metropolis (60,000+ people), and with their riches came castles, royal baths and religious buildings. For more than a century the capital grew in reputation, as well as pomp and pageantry, before inevitably falling due to infighting (which most empires do). But today, the UNSECO listed site still has plenty to see.

At the heart of the modern city sits the Royal Enclosure. The walledoff compound, once the stomping grounds of emperors, now fills with wide-eyed tourists. And almost right at the entrance gates is the main attraction. Fasilidas Palace, built by the founding emperor, stands high above the 70,000 m2 compound, 32 meters high to be exact. Entering via the stone staircase, you are immediately transported back to a time of grand banquets and eloquent balls. The massive rooms, used for various functions, and surrounding gardens are easily the highlight of a visit. But the site is by no means a one-hit wonder.

Various buildings are scattered about the large site, all included for the 100 Birr entrance fee. True, the buildings are more impressive for there sheer size as opposed to intricate detail, but here and there are a few little accents of artistry for those more focused on the smaller things. How long you spend in the complex is certainly a personal thing. Some travellers may spend hours, all in a half daze, soaking up the history of the place. While others may be more than happy to quickly breeze through snapping up a few photos as evidence of their visit. Personally, i found the complex quite peaceful (certainly if compared to the rest of the town) if you can find your own little spot. Sitting under the shade of a tree in the garden, off the path of the invading tour groups, isn't such a bad way to spend an afternoon. Unfortunately, unlike a ticket into Lalibela, the Gondar admission ticket is only valid for 1 day.

Also rather unfortunately, once out of the Royal Enclosure, you are left with the "modern" city of Gondar. Occupying forces from Italy, and liberating bombing of the British have left their marks. Although not a horrible place, it leaves much to be desired. The surprisingly busy streets, and lack of sidewalks, make Gondar a less than ideal place to wander around. And perhaps more than most other places in the country, it is difficult to walk more than a few metres without someone trying to sell you something. More often than not a guided expedition to the Simien Mountains, for which Gondar is the usually hopping off point. As a city, is was one of my least favourite in the country.

It is no surprise why Gondar is one of the main tourist destinations for travellers to the region. UNESCO quality site easily accessed by plane, or even the elite public transport SkyBus, make a visit to Gondar a no-brainer. And for those wanting to head into the beautiful Simien Mountains, it makes for a logical place to launch an expedition. Gondar may have hit it's peak in the 17th century, but the tourism industry is still going strong.

A Blue Nile Shower

2012-01-13T14:04:00.010+04:00

Sometimes we need a bit of a reality check, a kick in the pants to remind us just how small we really are. Sure, we got to the moon or invented Twinkies or whatever major advancement by mankind, but there's a seemingly instinctual reason why we seek to be awed by the power and glory of nature. While in northern Ethiopia, i set out to do just that.

While Lake Tana may not rank in the chronicles of “World's largest lakes”, it has a far more significant claim to fame. The outlet of Lake Tana is the birthplace of the Blue Nile. This same river, later downstream in Khartoum, Sudan, combines with the White Nile to form the Nile River. This waterway is unquestionably one of the most important (if not the most important) body of water throughout human history. But, as the lake squeezes into it's slimming river form, it's actually rather undramatic. That is until it reaches some 32 km down river, near the village of Tis Abay. It is here that the sluggish river explodes into one of the most beautiful waterfalls in the region, the Blue Nile Falls. Or well, it used to. That was before some guys came along and built a huge dam to block most of the water.

Nowadays, it takes a bit of luck to see the falls in their former glory. Depending on the rain fall or the hydroelectric needs at the time, the falls can be anywhere from not bad to virtually non-existent. On the day i visited, in early January, it was certainly at the low end of the impressive-ness scale. Even the locals said, “it's not much more than a shower”. But even without the grand finale, the days opening acts made it worth while.

As one get to town, they are immediately shown to the park entrance (where a fee is paid). Although guides are offered, they aren't really necessary.There are 2 options of how to reach the falls (or lack there of). To the east is the 17^th century Portuguese Bridge. Set in a nice little valley, it's a pretty little structure. From there, the obvious (although unsigned) footpath leads you through a tiny village where you are sure to be accosted by young girls trying to sell whatever given souvenirs they happen to have in stock (usually scarves) Once past them, the path inclines a bit until reaching a zenith. From here it's all downhill (literally) Fortunately, for those not wanting to break too much of a sweat, a newly constructed suspension bridge makes for quite a short cut to the falls. Depending on the water level, you can get surprisingly close to the cascading water, or chose to sit with some local women for a cup of local coffee.From this point, the path follows the western route (or boat route).
Much easier than the eastern path, the flat terrain eventually leads to the Blue Nile itself. Here, motorboats await tourists to ferry them across for 10 Birr. There are also the more simple tankwas which make the crossing, but apparently, tourist are forbidden from taking this. After not more than 2 minutes, the path on the other side of the river lead back to the starting point in the village. The whole thing won't take more than 90 minutes, including substantial break to catch your breath which you expertly mask as photo ops.Most hotels and tour companies in Bahir Dar of the falls trip as a half-day excursion. For those feeling a little more adventurous, public buses ply the way for a fraction of the price (although more time). For me, the bus trip was almost half the fun. Locals in their traditional garb and various tattooing patterns overload the antiquated transport on their way to sell their sugar cane or pottery in the next village. It's an anthropological dream. However, while catching the bus in Bahir Dar is easy, getting back requires a little more skill. There are FAR more people than places and the embarkation procedure can get rather aggressive. Local boys can fight for your seat, for a price. Alternatively, you can pay a few Birr more to get on the bus up the road, ahead of the locals. This may seem unfair, but frankly it's the only possible way to do it.

Even if the falls are uncooperative on the day of your trip, heading out to the area while in Bahir Dar is still worth it, if for nothing else than the people watching opportunities.

Beholden to Bahir Dar

2012-01-10T22:59:00.016+04:00

The fact of the matter is, sometimes travelling is downright exhausting. Fighting with taxi drivers, searching for a hotel preferably not featured in a Quentin Tarantino film, all while fighting off a stomach bug brought up by something which may not have been entirely dead at the time of ingestion. Frankly, there are time when you need a holiday from your vacation. Luckily, if travelling through north-western Ethiopia, there's just a place to fit the bill. The totally chillaxed lake-side town of Bahir Dar.

Bahir Dar (translating as "Sea Shore") is a great little town. Wide, palm lined streets with little traffic is a novelty in Ethiopia. With the exception of around the bus station, the touts which plague most other tourist destinations in the country are all but missing. And the local affinity for dining on second story floor removes one from beggars glances, while still allowing for clandestine people watching. True there is nothing to see or do in the town itself. There is little of architectural relevance or cultural significance. It is pleasant to stroll along the lakeside boardwalk. Although the LP claims it's hassle, or even dangerous, i saw nor heard no evidence of this. But for those wishing to do a little more than relax, the fact that Bahir sits on the shores of Lake Tana might be appealing.

Although not on any lists of "World's Largest Lakes" and not terribly deep (a maximum of 15 metres), Lake Tana is not a bad body of water. Size, in this case, most certainly doesn't matter. It is here that the Blue Nile river is born. It's easy enough to head to the mouth, or more interesting the Blue Nile Falls near the village of Tes Abay. The Blue Nile, later down stream (in Khartoum, Sudan), combines with the White Nile to form the historically crucial Nile River. One of the more interesting things about the lake is the way people get around. Ancient papyrus/reed boats are still in full use on Lake Tana. Although not endemic to the area (they've been used in Egypt, South America and the even Corfu) the tradition is still interesting to see. If you want, you can even pick up some fresh fish.

But the main attraction, which brings the tourists in, is what you can find on the 37ish islands which dot the lake. A number of the islands are graced with Orthodox monasteries, each dating back some 300-400 years. Little putt-putt motorboats ply the lake bringing travellers and pilgrims alike to any one of the dozen or so buildings. It's slow going, and some of the islands are quite far away. Frankly, there is little to no need to see all (or even more than a couple) of the monasteries. It's best to pick and choose, preferably the closer ones. The easiest to access are Ura Kidane Meret (on the Zege peninsula not an island) and Kabran Gabriel (only open to men). Each monastery now charges admission which is another reason to only pop into a few. While the buildings themselves are quite simple, some of the mural work is rather exquisite. The trip makes for a pleasant half-day+.

Bahir Dar offers something few other places in Ethiopia do, relaxation. Including the option of staying at the fancy-pants Kurfitu Resort & Spa. On top of which, with a few interesting day trips, relaxation need not turn into boredom. Heck even the drive in from Addis Ababa is a pretty one. True, it may not be the most spectacular part of the country, but i'd have to say it was one of my favourites.

A Bit Addis and a Bit a Dat

2012-01-09T13:57:00.010+04:00

For most travellers to or from the West, it seems logical to add the capital of whatever given country to whatever given travel itinerary. And why not? Capitals are usually the cultural, social and economical centres of the country, more often than not with some of the greatest highlights and sites in the region. However, this is not entirely true for most countries in Africa. Sure African capitals usually have the most money, and sure they often have the most clubs and such, but they are rarely the highlight of the country. This is most certainly true for the Ethiopian capital, Addis Ababa.

Addis (as it is most commonly referred to) has all the things a city of about

4 million should. Banks, hospitals, hotels and transportations options are all located in the places they should be. There is reasonable infrastructure, a decent nightlife and a fair number of dining options (although not exactly world class). Not to mention there are more churches and mosques than you can shake a stick at (not that you should shake anything at these places), plus a number of museums. Beyond that, the city houses the African Union (AU) headquarters, as it did the AU predecessor the OAU. NGOs and charities operating in the greater region often base themselves here too. It makes sense. Addis has become the region airline hub, it has a decent year-round climate, it has been politically stable for some time (a major feat for Africa) and it's wonderfully green. Plus it's a great place to pick up visas for onward travel in the area. However, while it may be a necessary evil to use the Bole International airport as a gateway into the region, there is really very little reason for the average tourist to spend much time there.

Considering the splendour of the rest of Ethiopia's natural, cultural

and historical diversity, Addis simply pales in comparison. There are no landmarks of note, few architectural high points and you need to pay to get into a number of the parks. The churches and cathedrals in the city are nice enough, and it is interesting to see the fervour with with Orthodox Ethiopians practice their faith. But really, once you've seen one, you've seen them all. To make matters worse, simply walking through the streets is an awful lot of hassle. In a country with a combination of rampant poverty and uninformed, bleeding heart tourists, the poor see foreigners as walking ATMs (DO NOT give money to beggars, it does NOT help). Touts and wheeler-dealers seek to squeeze anything out of your wallet possible. Plus there is a high incidence of pickpockets as 2 guests at my hotel sadly found out. Even with all it's trendy cafes and such, Addis can be tiring.

Arguably the single greatest attraction in the city is a market called

Merkato. Often touted as the largest open air market in Africa, Merkato is rather large. Covering an area over several square kilometres, there are some 7,000 shops, stalls and street matts employing around 13,000 people. Those are certainly big numbers. And the history of the place is interesting. Basically, the Italians (back in the day) didn't like mixing with the locals at St. George Market (just down the road). So they told the locals they had to do their business somewhere else. Thus, the Addis Merkato was born. But, having lived in the Middle East for a while, plus living along the Silk Road for ages, i found the Addis Merkato exceptionally under-whelming. It felt more like a shopping area than a market (if you get the difference). It did not feel exotic at all. While there were a few places to buy souvenirs (mostly made in China), it was in large part a place to pick up plastic wash basins and rope and such (also made in China) There was plenty of hassle and this is where the tourists were pick-pocketed (i mentioned earlier). I was not impressed.

Addis is not a bad place, but it's not a good place either. It's just a place. Get your visas, get you guide then get out.

Whale of a time with Djibouti-ful Sharks

2012-01-06T16:17:00.010+04:00

The tiny African country of Djibouti is hardly what you might call a hotbed of tourist activity. Frankly, Djibouti City leaves much to be desired. But there is one saving grace for the country. It is arguably the best place in the world to swim with Whale Sharks.

Whale Sharks are not whales. And they're hardly even sharks. An ancient species, originating some 60 million years ago, it is actually quite unique. So unique it is the only species in it's genus. It is a filter feeding shark which dines mainly on itty-bitty plankton. But all that science stuff is hardly the reason to seek them out. These bad boys are huge! Measuring up to 13 meters long (although there are claims of larger) and weighing 21 tonnes, this is the biggest fish in the world. It is a rare and unique opportunity to swim with these spotted giants. Although i had seen them before (in SE Asia), i had to take the chance to try to get a little closer.

Every year, between October and January, these gentle giants flock

to the Bay of Ghoubbet in Djibouti (clearly they haven't read the traveller reports on the country). There is no need to SCUBA, as with a bit of luck, you can snorkel with them. Dive companies, such as Dolphin Excursions, will take enthusiasts out for the day. It's an early-ish start, around 7:30 am. Launching from the colourful and busy Fishing Port, it's a roughly 2 hour slow boat ride out to the bay. The boats are comfortable enough, with free water (but coffee and such are available for a small fee). Once at the location, you leave the big boat for the smaller dingy and head off for what amounts to a hunting expedition without guns. As you scoot up and down the coast line, the captain keeps his eyes peeled for tail fins near the surface. Once spotted it's a full-on guerilla mission to suit up, jump in the water and chase down the poor creature.

Although Djibouti may be the best place to spot Whale Sharks, there are no guarantees. The captains spoke of days when they saw 10 or 12, others when they didn't find any. On my day, things were looking bad. The first attempt failed to find any. But the second attempt, after lunch, we spotted one who quickly descended to the depths. We gave up. On the way back to the big boat, we spotted another, more co-operative shark. I was able to swim along him for some time before he descended. As i surfaced to look for the boat, the captain pointed to another one nearby, but by the time i got there, it was little more than a shadow in the low visibility of the bay.

We sometimes need to be reminded how small we truly are. With a little bit of luck, the opportunity to swim along the graceful giants of the sea is definitely worth the $70 tour fee. It is a 'magical' experience making up for the necessity to stay in Djibouti.

Blow it out your Djibouti!

2012-01-03T19:42:00.011+04:00

Ok. Maybe i'm a bit immature (or a lot... whatever!), but i can't help smile every time i say the word Djibouti. I have these tremendous flashes of the pomp and circumstance of a KC and the Sunshine band final chorus. However, from the very moment i entered the tiny African country of Djibouti, the laughter died. I did not wish to “shake” anything.Djibouti as we know it (although this may be the first time you've heard of the place) has a common recent past as many other colonial regions. The French came, screwed stuff up and kind of remain around when it benefits them. From 1897 to 1967, Djibouti (or then French Somaliland) was fully Frenched up, complete with baguettes, berets and cafes. But after a brief stint of being part of Somalia, Djibouti gained independence in 1977. But foreign presence has remained heavy. The French, the US and others use this as a “strategic” location. Plus there's the fact it's the largest port in the area. All element lending their worst (or so it seems) to local custom.The thing is... Djibouti sucks. Some will disagree and you have that right. But for me, Djibouti easily moves to the bottom 5 countries i have ever been to. First of all, it's expensive. I don't mind paying European prices for European quality in Europe, but why the HELL is Djibouti so expensive??? Just to get there will cost a small fortune. Visas can cost between $40-$80 depending how/where you get it. Flights are ridiculous costing $300 to any nearby hub to fly anywhere else. Then there's the hotels, $35 for a shoebox with a shared toilet, serious?? $200 for a day trip to see a stupid freakin' salt lake, are you insane??? $3 for a juice??? The country is WAY overpriced, and not at all value for money.On top of that, there is little to see of do in the city. True, the colonial architecture can be nice enough in places, but how long does it take to walk up and down 6 streets? The Grand Marche (main market) is more a transport hub than a market. It is of little interest other than to those who have nothing else to do.

But the thing that really gets me are the people. It's impossible to walk more than 5 metres without someone trying to sell you something or show you to his shop or beg for money or offer a tour or lure you into a questionable establishment or pull whatever scam of the day he choses, “Mister... Mister...” “Hey, buddy” “Are you from Germany?” GET OUT OF MY FACE!!!! It's the sort of place you do not want to leave your hotel room.

Maybe i'm being a little hard. It seems like a logical conclusion that a place where there's nothing to see, the people are horrible and everything costs an arm and a leg, would not be the sort of place i would enjoy. I don't want to use the word “hate”, but i really, really, really, really, really, really, really don't like Djibouti.

A Berbera Bereft

2012-01-02T15:25:00.013+04:00

This may come as a bit of a surprise, but the self-proclaimed Republic of Somaliland is not exactly a profusion of pleasurable places to peruse. After visiting the capital of the republic, Hargeisa, or some ancient rock paintings at Las Geel, then the only place left to check out is the fishing port of Berbera.

Berbera used to be something really cool. Berbera has always been

a port. I believe "Since forever" would be an appropriate scientific term. So when the colonial powers were deciding who would get what piece of the African pie which they took upon themselves to do, Berbera flourished. The era certainly left it's mark. The city is overflowing with colonial period architecture virtually un-restored since that period. The years after the Europeans pulled out, they left the artificially created borders. This did not bode well for the local Africans. War followed. Varies wars of various people fighting over the same thing, land. Berbera did not fair well. With Somaliland told to unite with Somalia, years of “bad times”. More war arose. Berbera is a bit like a mule beaten over the years, but still battling on. But the people here, too, have aged liked the architecture. I've long been a believer that people make a place memorable for me. People make a country, not buildings.

I was pleasantly surprised by my experience in Hargeisa. The people

were kind, honest and genuinely curious. Nobody really wanted anything but a handshake and a “hello”. I found Hargeisa welcoming. Not Berbera. With the exception of island folk, coastal fishermen are rarely a congenial sort. Distant and borderline surly were my impression of the people here. I guess a few rotten apples spoil the lot, right? Well, people here specifically told me, in English, “We no needs Canadians tourist”, “We no needs Christians”, “do your business, go away!”. The waiter seemed annoyed that i had ruined his nap with my presence in his restaurant. “Menu?”, i asked. “No menu” the waiter answered with great indifference. “What do you have?” i asked logically. “We have fish.” he said with as much distain as his indifference would allow. Gone was the rock-star sensation of walking around the block. Berbera was gritty.

But there is an attraction. Once you get past all the garbage and overwhelming stench of sunbaked fish heads lining the path, Berbera opens up to you. The beaches are long, impossibly long. And they range from surprisingly clean to borderline pristine. Frolicking on the beach, baring too much in some sort of swimwear designed by Speedo's European design team would be considered somewhat disrespectful to locals. But you can get far enough from anybody that it won't matter. Do keep in mind, though, the long natural “pier” topped with a lighthouse at the end, is an active military zone, and they don't take too kindly to visitors.I get it. You make all the effort to get to Somaliland, and you want

to see more than just Hargeisa. But i'm not sure it's worth it. Firstly, all hotels will tell you that you must go escorted at all times when outside Hargeisa. This is only half-true. What they fail to tell you is if you go to the main police station (not the central station) in Hargeisa, and you are lucky enough to find the Commissioner, he can give you permission to use public transport. If you go escorted, it could cost as much as $189. Public transport is around $5 (depending on vehicle and position in that vehicle). There is an International airport at Berbera, and Jubba air will transport you there from Hargeisa if you have a reservation with them. But again, i'm not sure it's worth it. I figure, if in the area with extra time, why not? But it shouldn't be a primary destination, not yet.

A One-Horse Hargeisa

2012-01-01T14:57:00.016+04:00

There are some cities that leave you speechless. There are others that will have you lulling your family to sleep as you drone on soporifically at the dinner table. But then there are cities like Hargeisa, the capital of the pseudo-country of Somaliland.

That's not to say there's anything wrong with Hargeisa. On the contrary, i actually kind of liked it. But how much can you say about a city with

essentially 1 street? However “tourist attractions” are not what Hargeisa is about. It is instead the “tourist attentions”. Times have been rough on Hargeisa, Somaliland and indeed Somalia over the last couple decades, and it shows. The toll of decades of war and unrest are obvious on the city's face. There is a lack of basic infrastructure, abject poverty is rampant and security remains unsure. But things are getting better. Somaliland has done remarkably well in establishing all the criteria for an independent nation. They have a functional government, their own currency and even a large advertising, neon-esque screen lighting up the town's main square (or dare i say only square). Little by little in world is taking notice. Somaliland is increasingly popular for well-worn travellers and the NGO world is starting to set roots. But foreigners are still quite a novelty.

But there inlays the appeal. “Hello white man!” is shouted from nearly every little nook and cranny as you wander freely through the streets and markets.

This is not the hard-core war-zone some people may expect. In fact, if not for the occasional security check in and out of town or the odd traffic cop, you wouldn't notice any such armed presence as you would in Yemen or Kurdistan. These are no decapitating, kidnapping, bomb-planning pirates. These are good honest folks genuinely happy, and curious, to see you. There are none of the false conversations to try to sell you something like you'd find in Ethiopia. Just people who want to ask you name and maybe touch your white skin. But the overwhelming theme i had in the conversations with locals was they feel the international community has turned their collective backs on Somaliland. “Please, tell friends 'bout Somaliland. Here is peace and security. Come to Somaliland. Please tell them!” These people just want to be noticed. They merely want approval from the world for the great job they've done maintaining peace and stability in a region notorious for it's anarchy and chaos.

But for those who might need more motivation than merely being a

spectacle, there are a couple things to occupy a day in Hargeisa. The market is fun enough to wander around. And the camel and goat market, just outside the centre, is a great place to... well... check out goats and camels (keep in mind these are mostly desert folk and don't take too kindly to photos). The war memorial (with a MiG jet acting like an angel on a christmas tree) is rather sobering in it's bloody depictions. But possibly the coolest site are the endless rows of money changers. The thing is, Somaliland's currency is kind of funny. Although the exchange rate tends to fluctuate a lot, when i was there US$1 = 5,800 SlSh. Not such a big deal you might think. Perhaps i should mention that the largest bill they have is the 500 SlSh (that's about $0.09) So the changers sit on massive piles of bills, like some sort of Duck Tales opening credits. Exchanging becomes so ridiculous that people LITERALLY take their money away in wheelbarrows!!!

There are a surprising number of excellent value for money hotels in

town, namely the Oriental Hotel. Plus there are a couple of adequate eateries around the centre. It can be a bit of an issue if you plan to leave town. Technically, all foreigners must have an armed guard outside Hargeisa as they take foreigner safety rather seriously. This can be expensive. However, if you visit the Police Headquarters (not the central police) 2km outside the centre, the commissionaire may grant you a travel permit, free of charge, avoiding the whole guard nonsense.

Hargeisa will never become a major tourist destination. But it is important to realize that there is a possibility for tourism. It is true that everything could change tomorrow. So be sure to check before coming to the region. But I was asked many times by the locals to tell you something, so here it is, “Here is peace and security. Come to Somaliland.”

Overlandin' to Somalia

2011-12-27T20:08:00.015+04:00

That's right. It's not a type-o. You read correctly. Somalia (although maybe i should say Somaliland)! This is not an analogy of some hypothetical Herculean task, it is merely an account of one traveller's (namely me) journey from Harar, Ethiopia to Hargiesa, Somaliland via public transport. Oh sure... you coooouuuld fly it, but where's the fun in that?

It's an early start. I turn on the lights which seems to rudely interrupt a social gathering of kitten-sized cockroaches who then looked at me in disgust before scurrying away (actually size of cockroach may have been embellished for dramatic effect). Apparently i wasn't invited to their party even though they were using my budget hotel room as their club house. There's no water, as is a common occurrence in Harar, so i have a quick water bottle shower and pop in some chewing gum. After all, who am i trying to impress? It's a sunny morning, as is often the case in this part of the world with the current global axial tilt. I find a place for some eggs and coffee before heading to the dirt lot referred to as a “bus station”. Bus and taxi touts shout the names of any number of cities, most of which i had never heard of. But eventually, i found transport heading in my direction.There is no direct transport from Harar to Hargeisa, Somaliland. Instead, there's a hop-scotch multi-leg approach to even get to the border. First stop is the rag-tag town of Jijiga. These are largely unchartered waters. While Harar is a secondary tier destination on the tourist trail, Jijiga is so far off the radar, it might as well be Mars. Mini-buses and taxis leave whenever full, so i paid my 40 Birr ($2.30) and crammed into the 15 person mini-bus with 25 other people.

The drive, for the most part, is pretty enough. Although i'd hardly use the

words stunning or superb (like the over-zealous LP writer). The roads are good, but may not be for the faint of belly. The driver bobs and weaves his way along the winding road, dodging (or at times aiming for) a myriad of camels, donkeys and villagers who are under the impression the road is merely a convenient pedestrian thoroughfare. Although if the incessant honking of the driver is any indication, he disagrees. Possibly the prettiest part of the drive is of 14 km stretch of canyon. As the car passes through the Dakhata Valley (or Valley of Marvels) gentle stone giants overlook your passage. Eventually,

after about 2 hours (assuming there are no punctures, break-downs or camelcides), you arrive into the town of Jijiga. The bus station is a crazy one. The sights, sounds and smell overwhelm you as you step out of the bus. It doesn't take long to find transport to my next destination, Wajaale, the tiny village straddling the border between Ethiopia and Somaliland. Few foreigners make it this way, so a big white man is certainly the novelty, never mind a goatee-sporting, pony-tail-sproating, earring-wearing oddity which is me. But the curiosity is innocent, although mildly annoying as once the bus has filled, it takes a while to disperse the crowd of onlookers who, lacking any real entertainment, are forced to gawk at the back-pack toting freakshow.

It's about another 2 hours to the border. As you reach the bus station-type-area in Wajaale, there is a bit of a sense of “OK... now what?” But fear not, the border is about 500 along the main road. If you want, kids with wheelbarrows

will facilitate your crossing for 10 Birr ($0.57), so i dismiss any personal objections to child labour laws, and pick out the least scrawny looking one. Just before crossing the roped off road (super high tech security in these parts) Ethiopian immigration is a small white building on the left. The officer does his best to look like he's done this before, snapping photos and taking fingerprints. Once done, Ethiopian customs may ask to see in you bag. It's 100m or so along no-man's land until a similar procedure in Somaliland. Duck under the even less high-tech rope and head for the brightly painted building on the right. Once done, prepare for a fight with drivers, in the car-park behind immigration, who are likely the only dishonest people in the country. 1 place for the ride in a shared taxi to Hargeisa should not cost more than 120 Birr ($7). They'll tell you you are too fat and need 2 places or your bag is too big and needs to be paid for to offset the delicate arrow-dynamics of his 197? “shitmobile”. Stand your ground.

Somaliland is hardly the most developed county on Earth, a fact made immediately apparent by the roads (or lack there of). The bucket of bolts called a taxi does it's best to negotiate the mildly-worn dirt path through the desert in a general direction of Hargeisa, the Somaliland capital. Eventually, the desert is bisected by one of the only sealed roads in the country. It's smoother sailing from there. The driver stops at what is likely his cousin's mini-restaurant for a quick bite, before continuing onwards. A couple security checks may along the way were shocked at the white dude wedged into his half-a-seat space. They demand my passport and turn to some random page pretending to know what they are doing or looking for. But if staring at my Turkish visa, upside down, for 2 minutes might show, the guard likely can't even read. Other than that the checks are quick enough, unless you opt for the additional strip search at a bargain price.

Soon enough Hargeisa is in sight, although it's not much of a site. The driver didn't drop me off anywhere of note, nor had any intention of bringing me anywhere i wanted to go (without more money). Luckily, Hargeisa only really has 1 street (Independence Road) so you are never too far from anything of importance. While the driver told me my hotel was 10km away, a local dude was nice enough to show me the way, which in reality was only a couple hundred metres away. It was a long day. As i took a much needed shower, the accumulated dust of the day washed away. I was refreshed and ready for the next challenge, dinner.

Talkin' bout a Revolution

2011-12-19T12:55:00.013+04:00

Logic might dictate, that a normal person with R&R from their job in Iraq might seek out something a little on the tame, serene or pampering side. I've been called a many things in my time, but logical or normal are not leading exemplars to describe me. With a final destination being the Horn of Africa, i was forced to transit somewhere on route. Given the choices of boring Dubai where i'd need a visa to merely go to some overpriced mall to shop, or Cairo in the midst of a bloody revolution, my abnormal logic needed no time to make a decision.

I had been to Cairo before, honestly i'm not a huge fan. On top of the

chaotic streets belching equal amounts of exhaust and noise, the place is overrun by tourists and the incredibly aggressive touts that hover like African killer bees with PMS. Funny thing is, bloody revolutions tend to scare off the masses. I breezed through the Cairo airport, a building used to dealing with thousand of travellers at a time, not hundreds. After the inevitable heated arguement with the taxi driver to try to get a reasonable price into town, he becomes your new best friend. “Look Habibi, Mubarak house” my driver points out as we pass the ousted leader's home. “Mubarak bad?” i ask. “Very bad!!” comes the reply as he curses Mubarak in Arabic with what i can only assume is an armpit infestation of fleas from 1,000 camels. “Tahrir ok?” I ask about the square that has seen some of the most memorable images of the revolution. “No problem, Habibi”

In general, little remains of the mass encampments and 1,000,000

man marches which brought Tahrir Square into the spotlight of the world's media. Sure there are a couple tents still up and a few people whinging about the new military dictatorship, but things leading up to my visit had calmed considerably. But when a situation remains a tense pressure keg of pissed off youth with nothing else to do, it's ready to explode at anytime. And that's exactly what happened as i made my way to Tahrir. Things had progressed from rock throwing and name calling (with the occasional camel mounted beating) to full on warfare. Hardhats were the newest fashion as a group started attacking a number of buildings surrounding the square,

the main target (at least one easy enough to access) was the “Institute D'Egypte” Molotav cocktails rained on the building like sugar canes at a Santa Claus parade. The army responded by throwing massive stones chipped of the burning building down on the crowd below (hence the hardhats) But even among the chaos and destruction there was a nonchalant-ness about the crowd. Pretzel sellers worked the hungry crowd as families would pose for pictures with the anarchy as a backdrop. I felt “safe”. Locals would happily chat to me as none of their anger is aimed of foreigners. The whole scene became a little boring and i was ready to leave. But then it got interesting.

Perhaps there was some arbitrary line that was crossed. But even

as the Prime Minister was making a televised speech saying how they would not use violence, the word was given for the army to change from the defensive to the offensive. Craned water cannons pushed the crowd back far enough to make a little elbow room. Then the tear gas. Then the cane wielding soldiers. Goal number one was to fight fire with fire, literally. The few remaining tents, many merely impromptu field hospitals, were burned. The crowds half scattered, half fought back. The soldiers charged, beating anyone slow enough to be caught. I came to a truly bona fide and sudden realization. I really need to work on my over-the-shoulder while running for my life photography.I made it to my hotel, which i specifically chose for it's proximity to the square. Things in the square were secured, as i'm sure the fight moved on somewhere else. I went to Burger King (which i hadn't had in a million years) then headed back to the airport to catch my flight to Somalia via Ethiopia. But more on that later.

Holy, Erbil!!

2011-11-26T14:07:00.010+04:00

For those familiar with guidebooks and other such travel paraphernalia, a common theme of recommendations should be obvious. You can damn near bet your bottom dollar that for any given city in any given country somewhere in the "recommended sights" section will be a cathedral, church, mosque, temple and what-have-you place of religious worship. And why not? They are almost always the most impression architectural site in the city. Well, Erbil (Iraq) may be the exception to the denomination migration.

Perhaps surprisingly, even with Erbil's 8,000 years of history, there isn't much in the way of ancient buildings. And considering it was never an important city, few interesting buildings were ever built. If you couple this with the fact that the former regime wasn't exactly generous with the Kurdish population, it pretty much equates to there is jack all to see other than the Citadel. But there is one new contender vying for the most photogenic honour.

Smack dab downtown, only a stone's throw from the Erbil Citadel is the

Jalil Khayat Mosque. By far the biggest in town, it is also, arguably, the city's most impressive. So using my connecting to the Muffti family (kind of like the religious teamsters in Erbil) i finagled myself an invite inside. The privately funded mosque is hardly ancient, it was finished not more than 20 years ago, but beggars can't be choosers. The interior is certainly ornate. However, if you have visited the Blue Mosque (or any other mosque) in Istanbul, Jalil Khayat pales in comparison. There is little time work, except outside, and most of the details seems to have been stencilled. But many windows were imported from Saudi and closely resemble Yemeni design. It was unclear if non-Muslims are allowed to visit under normal conditions (remember, i was invited by a big-wig) But there's no harm in trying. Just don't go during prayers. Even if you don't get inside, the outside is interesting enough in it's fusion of Arabic and Turkish architectural styles.

Not to be outdone, the Christian Assyrian population in the Erbil suburb

of Ainkawa, have their own unique building. St. Joseph's Church was finished in 1980. Built in the style of a Babylonian ziggurat, the church is certainly eye-catching. The interior is very ordinary, but have the fun of visiting the church is getting in the gate. Due to violence against minority religions (Christianity being one of them), security is taken fairly seriously. "Where from? Christian? Gun?" is the likely breakdown of the interrogation procedure just to get in. Sadly, no pat downs.

Perhaps neither of these building is particularly life changing. Nor would they make a bucket list of "places to see before you die". But they are both cool enough, and with a day or so to spare in Erbil, they could help pass the time.

Charmed by Koya

2011-11-20T17:27:00.015+04:00

It really is such a shame. Most travellers to the Iraqi Kurdistan region only know the town of Koya as a place to swap taxis along the "safe" road from Erbil to Sulaymaniyah, largely due to somewhat superficial reporting in a certain guide book. But for those who plan to merely transit this town, they are most sorely missing out.

Perhaps a good start would be to put things in perspective. Koya is never going to win a international tourism award for best anything. In general, the town is non-descipt. Generally speaking, it is a ramshackle collection of ordinary houses and shops which are nothing to write home about. But the setting is nice. Pressed up on a jagged hill hillside that gently melts into a vast valley, roughly half way between major centre of Erbil and Suly and only a stone's throw from the largest lake in the region, Lake Dukan. But it is not the town in it's entirety that is the attraction. For those in the know, this town has some awesome hidden gems.

In order to get your bearings, the best place to start in town is the central

citadel. Although it clearly pales in comparison to the wonderful Citadel in Erbil, it manages to hold it's own. The one in Koya was never really a place of residence. It was, instead, the true definition of a citadel, a fortress. The heavily fortified walls are fun to ramble along as you make your way from tower to tower offering 4 corners of views over the town, mountains and valley. There aren't any official visiting hours, but there is always a guard on hand. If the gates are locked, try knocking. It worked for me.

There are even a couple shrines in town. The most popular being a Christian shrine (Mar Behnam) just to the north as you pass the city's check-point from Erbil. Heaving with local picnicers in the summer, i was surprised to see people braving the cold to BBQ in November when i visited. But while the citadel is cool and the shrines can be fun, they are nowhere near as magnificent as the towns main attraction.

The old market and adjoining old town are amazing. Although not as big as

the one in Suly or as busy as the one in Dohuk, it offers something no other market in Kurdistan does, history. It may sound surprising when i say it's tough to find history in Iraq. But the fact of the matter is, anything old is being thrown to the wayside with preference for the new and shiny. But the market in Koya has been left in it's natural, pure state. Some of the doors and gateways date back to the 13th century and if you're lucky enough to stumble upon the stupendously undiluted central caravansary you are in for a real treat. There are even local artisans working in the decaying building hand-making items like donkey saddles for an absolute bargain basement price. Once outside the market, the ancient old town is a blessing of narrow meandering alleyways where the only traffic will be kids pushing each other around on impromptu 'scooters'. This is the Iraq i wanted to see. I just never expected it to be in Koya.

Getting to Koya is pretty simple. From the shared taxi garage (Koya Garage) near Majidi Mall in Erbil, 1 seat in a car costs 5,000 IQD and takes about an hour.

Koya may not appeal to everyone. No one here speaks English, there is a lot of garbage and hardly anything has been restored. But the rewards of the town astronomically outweigh the petty shortcomings. Best of all, you are guaranteed to be the star attraction as, while there are few tourists in Iraq, there is no one in Koya. One thing's for absolute sure, being only a short shared taxi ride away from Erbil, i'll definitely be going back.

Doublin' Up on Dohuk

2011-11-12T11:14:00.015+04:00

During my first visit to Iraqi Kurdistan several years ago, the city of Dohuk was where i broke ground. Although the town was nice enough, i remember a feeling of under-whelm-ment. Recently, with few viable options to get out of Erbil for a day or two, i opted to revisit the city. I'm glad i did.

I was shocked at how much the city has grown, although i guess i shouldn't be. With development running amuck all over Kurdistan at the moment, it should not have been a surprise to see the town expanding to the horizon. But there is still no question where the life of the city is. The central bazar heaves under the footsteps and bargaining of the locals. And visiting during a holiday meant it was even busier. However with a "been there, done that" feeling starting to set in, i headed out to find things i missed out on the first time (or that were new)

Having only been discovered in 2006, the Carsten Sculptures are

Zoroastrian ruins set in the hill around Dohuk, overlooking the Dohuk dam (although the dam wasn't there in Zoroastrian times). Located a short walk outside Dohuk, towards the dam, the ruins require a fair bit of imagination, and 500 IQD to enter. To get there, take the pleasant drainage ditch park located behind the Duski Hotel. Once at the end, follow the road along the river towards the dam. The ruins are up the hill to on the right. The office is well labelled in English. But for me, the reward wasn't the ruins, but the wonderful view over the dam below.

The other nice addition to the city is the Azadi (peace) Park and its adjoining

panorama (of the uncreative same name). Built just off the main road, the park is very popular with local families in the late afternoons. As is the common theme around the country, the green space comes alive with the screams and squeals of children as young couple attempt to steal away kisses hidden from the judging eyes of town elders. But, that sadly, other than the ruins and the park, there wasn't much else to attract my attention. The museum in town is the worst in the country. The amusement parks are just not my thing. But Dohuk has an advantage to travellers far greater than a few mediocre distractions. The city is possibly the best place from which to base yourself to explore other places nearby. It's easy to get to Zakho to see the Delal Bridge (6,000 IQD shared taxi o/w). A day trip to the Yazidi holy town of Lalish including the monastery at Al Kosh can be done for around 50,000 IQD. Or you could go north to Amediyah (25,000 private taxi o/w)

Dohuk is a place that is more than just a sum of its tourism parts. For those quickly passing through, it has enough to fill a day or so. For those with a little more time, it's an excellent base to explore the region. But for those slow travellers, Dohuk offers a very different experience than Erbil or Suly. Either way, no trip to Iraq would be complete without a visit to Dohuk.

Za-kho, Za-kho, Off to the Bridge I Go

2011-11-11T19:28:00.008+04:00

There's nothing wrong with Chumbawamba (of Tubthumping fame). They are one of many one-hit wonders that simply weren't able to parlay initial success into a full blown career. The Iraqi border town of Zakho is a bit like that. It is a one-hit wonder that will never really make it on the tourist radar.

Few overland travellers, entering Iraqi Kurdistan from Turkey, bother

to stop in Zakho. It's little wonder why. The town is nice enough and it's safe. And it's setting might even be called pretty with snowcapped mountains in the distance. There are plenty of hotel and cafe options, a rarity in Kurdistan. And plenty of user-friendly transport links (signs in English) to most places in the region. But "functional" is hardly a word used to pull in the tourist masses. The city is just that, a city. There is nothing unique or special about the place unless you're really into Transport spotting as there are more than a few trucks lining up to cross into Turkey.

However, the one thing Zakho does have is a bridge, the Delal Bridge to

be specific. Originally dating back to the Roman era, this 15.5 meter tall 114 meter long bridge is lovely. It doesn't really go to or from anywhere anymore, and the only traffic it sees is that of excited cross border shoppers looking for a photo op. Even the river below is more of a babbling brook (although the water is surprisingly clean for this region) But none of that matters. For bridge-o-philes, the Delal Bridge is something special. And even for laymen, the bridge makes for an interesting diversion and distraction from the otherwise dull border town.

I'm not sure the Delal Bridge warrants a stay in Zakho. The town is fine and might break up a long travel day to/from Turkey. But there are places much higher on the Mediocrity Scale in the country.

Divine Lunchin'

2011-11-05T23:06:00.016+04:00

Allow me to begin by saying that despite the title of this blog entry, it has nothing to do with restaurant critiques or Iraqi recipes. My idea of a great meal is not about service or even menu selection, but it is instead about the company one keeps. So i was not about to turn down my most recent lunch invitation.

Perched on top of the "Upside Down Mountain" (Jabal Maqlub), 20 KMs

north of Mosul sits Mar Mattai (St. Matthew's Monastery). Dating back to the 4th century A.D., Mar Mattai is yet another example of Iraq's magnificent, diverse history. St. Matthew (not to be confused with the Biblical Apostle) bounced his way around the region, performing miricles like curing an Assyrian King Behnam's daughter, Sarah, of leprosy. The saint used many of the caves on Jabal Maqlub as a temporary home, eventually the monastery was built to make life a little more comfortable. But more pertinent to the hero of our story, me, it was the place that i was invited to have lunch. A recent graduate of the seminary located at the Mar Mattai site extended the offer from the Mar Mattai's sitting bishop for lunch. And as the old saying goes "When a Bishop is invitin', it'll be excitin'" Ok, it might not be that old a saying.

The monastery and seminary are in full swing, or at least as swingin' as the

current climate in Iraq will allow. With around 8 full-time students on premises and pilgrims visiting all the time, the building is alive. The bishop was a nice guy. Lunch was great. But beyond the opportunity to ingest my recommended daily caloric intake was the chance to learn like the days of yesteryear. In our days of internet and instant access to any information we want with the click of a button, we have forgotten how knowledge was passed throughout the centuries. Academics used to actually seek out sages and scholars to learn first-hand the events which have defined the passage of time. It beat the heck out of a National Geographic documentary.

For the average traveller, there's good news and bad news about a visit to Mar Mattai. The good news is anyone is welcome. Beyond merely visiting, you can stay in the rooms for a day or week or as long as you wish. There are basic toilet and cooking facilities. The bad news is, it's in the middle of nowhere. There is no public transport, meaning a private taxi will run around $100.

Mar Mattai is a beautiful building. And the setting on Jabal Maqtub overlooking the Ninevah Plains is awesome. And the monks are friendly. The place has every makings of a great destination, if it weren't for the difficulty of reaching the location. But for those with a few extra dollars to burn, or are lucky enough to snag an invite, Mar Mattai will be an unforgettable destination in Iraq.

Shaqlawan Sugar Coatin'

2011-10-29T20:46:00.015+05:00

There are those elitist travellers who preach some sort of gospel of not needing a guide book. Somehow, local knowledge will trump any research, blogs or convenient paperback book. After nearly 2 decades of living, working and travelling overseas, i can say that local knowledge more often than not... sucks! But let's be fair. Do you know the best hotel in your city? Do you know the best/cheapest way from A to B in your own country? My guess is "no". So when i asked locals in Iraq where the best place was for me to visit for the weekend, the almost unanimous answer was Shaqlawa. I should have know what to expect from local advice for travel.

Let's look at the bright side. While tourism remains in it's infancy in

much of Iraq, the mountain village of Shaqlawa (45 minutes north of Erbil) has taken to tourism like a duck to water. Without question there are more hotels in this town per capita than anywhere else in the country. And honestly, it can be tough to find affordable accommodation outside the major centres. There are a plethora of restaurants, serving mostly the same menu. And there's even fairly easy public transport from Erbil with both buses and shared taxis up for offer (although the station in Shaqlawa is poorly located). The reality is, Shaqlawa is the closest thing you'll get to a tourist trap in Iraq. Shops hawk the same sweet wares. Buildings are all new (including ancient churches that have been built over). But locals swear by the town as a great destination to BBQ and escape the torturous heat common in the desert basin around Erbil. But frankly the town is nothing special.

But all is not lost. Despite lacking in what most foreign tourist might deem

appealing, there are a couple places to make the trip worth while. For the main attraction in town, all you need to do is follow the hordes of weekenders and holidayers. The Cave of Raban Boya dates back nearly 2,000 years. A small, greatly deteriorated shrine remains hidden in a crevice of the large mountain back-drop of Shaqlawa. It's a short hike (not more than 30 minutes if you're in bad shape). But the trail is literally overflowing in the summer, especially on the weekends. Inside the shrine, a large stone is used as a

"Wishing Rock". If you make a wish/pray (same thing really) a slide down the rock 3 times, head first, your wish will come true. Locals swear by the power of this stone and is a major reason for the crowds. There are a couple other shrines tucked away into the hills, but none are as impressive (not that Raban Boya is impressive). Other sites include a couple churches. But even with ancient foundations, the churches are mostly new and uninspiring. The market downtown is famous for pomegranates and walnuts. And you can find a variety of sweets & treats to prove it. Not a great place for diabetics. And for those really wanting to live on the wild-side, there's an amusement park complete with rusty Ferris Wheel and partly functional bumper cars (or Dodge 'Ems for British folk). But remember, electricity is shockingly inconsistent in Iraq.

Shaqlawa just wasn't for me. But it does offer an escape for the summer heat, and is one of the few places outside the main cities with tourist facilities. If you manage to befriend a local in Kurdistan, Shaqlawa might be worth it. The BBQs are kind of fun and the setting is not that bad. But if on your own, i'm not sure the town is worth the effort.

Bearin' my Soles in Lalish

2011-10-23T18:36:00.016+05:00

I like the unique, the special and the uncommon. When you can mix that with unknown, uncharted and untravelled, it's almost a guaranteed winner. We've all heard of grand holy pilgrimage sites like The Vatican or Mecca, but few, if any, know about Lalish.

The village of Lalish itself, 60 km north-west of Mosul in Iraq, is rather indistinct. Although the setting is pretty enough, wedged into a narrow valley, there isn't much a village. Most locals, not from the immediate area, have a tough time finding it. However, if you happen upon a practitioner of the Yazidi faith, they'll know exactly where it is.

The Yazidi faith is often called an off-shoot of Islam. That's not entirely

true. While there are many elements of Islam in the belief, it's like saying Buddhism is Hindu. The Yazidism-for-dummies version would be a bit like this. God created an angel, Melek Taus (represented by a peacock), from his "light". God then created 6 other archangels. God asked Melek Taus and his brethren to bring him some dust, from which he created Adam. God told the angels to bow to the new creature (Adam) but Melek Taus refused. God thought this was cool and promoted Melek Taus to "representative of God on Earth". But here's the problem. This sounds a lot like the beginnings

of Islam, but replace Melek Taus with Jin Iblis. The BIG difference is, Muslims believe that because Jin Iblis refused the command of God he was banished to hell and became Shaitan (Satan). So for Muslims, they see the Yazidi as Devil worshippers. Worldwide, there are only about 600,000 Yazidi people. Yazidism is only inherited through birth, you cannot convert to the faith. Furthermore, Yazidi are forbidden from marrying outside the religion. This is taken very seriously as illustrated by the stoning death of a young girl when she fell in love with a Muslim. Normally, the village of Lalish is pretty empty, even though it's the Holy City of the religion due to the tomb of Sheikh Adi bin Musafir. But i'm not the kind of traveller who want to visit a couple of buildings. I, instead, opted to go during the biggest festival of the year, "The Feast of the Assembly"

Without question, visiting Lalish during a festival is the best time to go.

While there isn't much pomp or circumstance, the people watching is spectacularly spectacular. Many people are adorned with traditional clothing and jewelry. Elders gather to discuss current events, including the Prince of the Yazidi (middle photo above). The people are warm and friendly, and completely welcoming of foreigners (even during a festival) There are offers of help around every corner. This is genuine hospitality, as no gratuities are expected for guiding, food or anything.

But a visit outside of festival times is still worth it. In general, the

buildings and shrines are unspectacular and in desperate need of restoration. Inside many of the tombs and shrines you will find brightly coloured fabrics draped in many locations. Here, you make a wish/pray to God, then tie a knot in the fabric to have it answered. There is also a pillar where you throw a cloth hoping it sticks on top, if it does, you win a car (or something like that) There is also a shrine with a pillar where if you are able to reach around and have you fingers touch, you will have a long life. You can climb the stairs behind the main shrine for a view over the valley and houses below. There is no signage what-so-ever in the village, and you will have to pass security at the base of the hill. It is unlikely that you will need more than an hour or two to see and do everything, twice or even 3 times.

Getting to Lalish is tough. there is no public transport, meaning you will need a private taxi. A taxi and driver for the day will be 40,000-50,000 IQD from Dohuk, and 100,000+ IQD from Erbil. There are no tourist facilities in Lalish, and i didn't notice any in the nearby towns. Meaning this can only be done as a long day trip.

There are a few rules to follow when visiting Lalish to not offend locals:

1) Shoes are strictly forbidden inside the shrines/temples, and generally frowned upon in the village as a whole. Go barefoot.

2) The door thresholds are Holy are are not to be stepped on, sat on or leaned against.

3) Lettuce is apparently forbidden. But i was unable to confirm this.

4) Do not spit on the ground when in Lalish.

5) DO NOT speak of the Devil or ask about Shaitan.

6) There is no strict dress code, i saw locals with blue jeans and t-shirts. But as a general rule err on the side of "respectful".

G) Of note, there is no cell phone reception in Lalish (at least no Korek). So don't expect to call your driver when ready to leave.

Lalish of certainly unique, if not unspectacular. If you can arrange to be here for the first week of October (Feast of the Assembly) or April for New Year (Sar-Sal Eid) you'll definitely be in for a treat.

Al Kosh, of Course!

2011-10-15T21:12:00.011+05:00

Admittedly, one of the biggest problems with living and travelling "off-the-beaten track" is no one has bothered to beat a track for me. It's tough to find information on places to go and things to see in Iraq. A few years ago, the LP updated an Iraqi section in the Middle East guide. Sadly, it was thoroughly substandard. There are a couple blogs and such out there, but they're by travellers who go to the same places every time (oddly enough the ones suggested in the LP). And trying to rely on local info is tough as they rarely travel for fun to remote locations. So while i was in Lalish, in north-western Kurdistan, i opted for to stop by Al-Kosh (also written alqosh).

The village of Al-Kosh, like many places in Iraq, has a history older than

history itself. Some of the first mentions of the town come over 2,500 years ago. A predominantly Assyrian town, Al Kosh has a feel to it unlike any feeling i've got from any other town in Iraq. This is not your typical new-ish village with clothes shops, shawarma stalls and CD stores. Instead a myriad of fully pedestrian alleyways meander their ways past centuries old building, gateways and shrines. The are a number of hidden gems tucked away in the labyrinth of streets. One of the more surprising would be the Shrine of Prophet Nahum. The reason this shrine might surprise most is it's a Hebrew shrine, in Iraq (so much for your preconceptions). Although, if you want to go inside the very dilapidated building, you'll have to find the "keymaster" just up the street.

But being a majority Christian town, most of the sites revolve around

a Christian theme. The cemetery located in the middle of town has a fair number of interesting graves. There is no secret what religion the deceased are as crosses are seen at every turn. Swiss-cheesing the mountain backdrop of the town are a series of caves. Most of the caves were used as monastic, meditative, hermit-esque type purposes. And the Virgin Mary's Monastery is an impressive (although relatively new) building on the outskirts of town.

But there is no question what the real highlight of the town is. If

the Lord of the Rings characters were a bunch of Assyrian monks, the Rabban Hormizd Monastery would have been there home. Essentially carved into the face of the mountain, the monastery seems almost natural in it's surroundings (hard to photo as it blends in so well). Dating back to the 7th century, the complex is still in use today. As such, much of the structure is out of bounds. But the newly renovated church, as well as a few of the caves are open to wander around and hopefully not get lost. The building is impressive. Arguably the most impressive i've seen in Kurdistan. And the views over the desert basin are lovely. The best part is, there is hardly ever anyone up there, so you get the whole thing to yourself. It is not only the highlight of Al Kosh, but one of the hidden treasures of Northern Iraq.

History, alleyways, surprising shrines, cool cemeteries and magnificent monasteries, Al Kosh really has it all. It can be easily included on a day trip from Dohuk, and that's about the only way to get there as there are no tourist facilities or public transport options. I have yet to get really excited about a place in Kurdistan. But Al Kosh is about as close as i figure i will get.

Northern Exposure

2011-10-13T18:07:00.012+05:00

I'm not entirely sure what i was expecting. Having lived, worked and travelled to many areas above or near the Arctic Circle, i should have had a clearer picture. There is, of course, a difference between Arctic Canada and Arctic Norway, although it may not be astoundingly huge. But i still had to check out the north while passing through the Scandinavian country.

There was no pomp or fanfare, no fireworks or hula girls as my

overnight train, from Trondheim to Bodo, cross over the arbitrary Arctic Circle. It's not even a fixed arbitrary line as the Earth wobbles on it's journey around the sun. Arriving into the sleepy town of Bodo, things had not changed that much. There were no polar bears wandering the streets, houses were not made of snow and remarkably few people commuted to work on snowmobiles. But it was August. Actually, a rainy Sunday in August meaning even less was happening than usual. Bodo is a fishing town. And... that's about it. If it wasn't for the fact that it was the major launching port for trips to Lofoten Islands, it is unlikely that anyone would stop there. Yes, there are a couple museums. But the town lack any traditional architecture after being levelled in WWII. Still, it allows for bragging rights of breaching the Arctic Circle, it is the end of the Norwegian rail system and gives a decent insight to an ordinary town in Norway.

But i was heading further north. Sadly, with the time i had, i couldn't head

to the crazy far, end-of-the-world north, so the town of Tromso would have to do. Seeing as the train ends in Bodo, i had to find alternative transport. Buses were ridiculously expensive and i didn't have time to hitchhike. So i had to settle for the very cool Hurtigruten. Tromso is the sort of place that claims a lot of 'records'. They have the northern-most university, northern-most cathedral not to mention the Northern light capital of the world. It's true, for a town of 65,000, Tromso has a lot going on. But in the end, it's a town of 65,000.

The Funicular in town offers spectacular views, but it's was raining when

i was there (a common meteorological infliction) so it was of little use to me. There are arctic botanical gardens, which suck in the rain. And Tromso is famous for it's shockingly good nightlife, which surprisingly is not that hopping on a raining Monday. All in all, i was underwhelmed. Still, Tromso is removed from the tourist trap of the south. Sure it isn't as flashy, but it seemed more Norwegian to me. Perhaps if i had been there in winter to see snow on the hills and a Northern Lights 'show', my impression would be different. But for a rainy mid-week visit, it had little to offer.

Maybe if the weather had been better, or maybe if i had come at a different time of year, or maybe if i had been there at another part of the week, or maybe if i had gone into the wild, i'd have more to say. But i didn't, so i don't. The trip north was more about the journey than the destination. For that reason alone, and that reason alone, i'd say do it.

Shippin' Norway

2011-10-07T21:30:00.014+05:00

Socializing with sexagenarians, taking out a mortgage to eat, freezing my ass off and flash-tourism are not usually "thang". But how could possibly turn down the opportunity to sail a bit of history. Norway is renowned for it's spectacular coastal beauty. When in the country, there may be no better way to appreciate it than hopping on the Hurtigruten.

Back in the day, around 1890s, it was darn near impossible to reach Norway's

arctic region. While rail, road and air all service the area today, this was not the case not that long ago. The only way to head north, was along the, largely, poorly charted waters. Enter the Hurtigruta ("express route"). A lot has changed over the years. The route from Bergen to Kirkenes, though still serving a small cargo need, is largely for tourists. Gone are the days of salty sea-dogs and swashbuckling. But that doesn't mean you can't sail a bit of history.

I figure, if you're gonna kick it, might as well kick it old school. With

a number of different vessels to choose from, i went for the MS Nordstjernen. The Hurtigruten website tries to wow you with phrases like, "rich in character" and "favourite for many enthusiasts". But that's just PR talk for 'old'. It's true the 1956 vessel lacks the hot tubs, bars and movie theatres some of the other fancy-pants boats flash around, but that's half the fun. But let's face it, i'm far from a hardcore cruiser and i'm kind of far from being a sexagenarian. My choice to hop on board was purely a practical one. Having reached Bodo, the end of the Norwegian train line, my only other choice for northerly travel was the extortionately expensive bus. If sleeping on deck and using the many port stops to stock up on food, the trip is not that expensive and is well worth it.

But the Hurtigruten is far from the only sea-board transport

available in Norway. There are a few other options that prove to be both economical (relative term for Norway) and nonstandard. The Flaggruten, operated by Tide, plies the route from Stavanger to Bergen for cheaper than buses and in less time than backtracking with a train. And this doesn't even begin to take into account the endless number of ferries that head up and down the fjords for both tourist and practical purposes, like the one to Lysebotn.

There is far more to sea based travel in Norway than just 'doing a tour'. Combining a series of boats for a combination of touristic enjoyment as well as practical transportation can prove to be both entertaining and economical. Although many of the Hurtigruten stops are short, 15 minutes in a place is better than zero. Get up close to the coast by boat. You won't regret it.

Norwegian Trainin'

2011-09-24T19:52:00.017+05:00

It is rare to find a great travel compromise. If you want great weather, you have to deal with crowds. If you want discounts, you have to travel off-season. If you travel on a budget, you have to sacrifice comfort. But Norway has one of these elusive compromises. You can see incredible nature, in comfort, at bargain prices. All you need to do is hop on a train.

Norwegian State Railways, or NSB, is a great way to see the country.

Trains are generally on time. They offer internet (although it's a little spotty at times). There is a dining car. They have a comfort class for the those who want a little pampering (free coffee and newspaper). There's even a sleeper train for longer hauls, like Trondheim to Bodo, with cabins (or pullman seats for the financially challenged). But beyond relative comfort, the trains are a blessing for their prices. Norway is far from being a cheap travel destination and transport makes up a major part of any budget. NSB has a solution.

If you are able to pay in advance, NSB offers significantly discounted

prices called Minipris. These budget fares start at 199 NOK (US$37) irregardless of the distance traveled. $37 might still seem expensive for a train ticket, but when considering the alternatives, it's a steal. For example, the nearly 10 hour journey from Trondheim to Bodo should cost 982 NOK (US$183) at full fare. But getting the Minipris automatically saves nearly $150. Couple this with the fact it's an overnight train and you also save a night's accommodation. With a dorm bed in a hostel costing around 250 NOK (US$50), this makes an overall savings of around $200! On a single trip!!!!!!!!!

While saving money and travelling in comfort would normally be enough,

in Norway you get a trifecta by throwing in some beautiful scenery. Regular routes, like Bergen to Oslo, are often touted as one of the most beautiful train trips in the world. Yes, it's nice (particularly at the Bergen end) but "most beautiful" might be an exaggeration. There are also a couple "tourist" trains, the most popular being The Flam Railway, often included in larger tours, like Norway in a Nutshell. While i took the Bergen-Oslo train, i wasn't interested in the over touristed Flam train. I, instead, opted for different one.

The Raumabanen, or Rauma Railway, is a very pretty trip. Shuttling between the beautiful port of Andalsnes and Dombas, the train ride is lovely. I could throw out statistics like, 114km or opened in 1924 but what's the point. This trip is not about history or geometry, it's about nature.

Andalsnes is beautiful. While the town itself is just a village, the

natural Fjord setting is memorable. Although skipped by the Norwegian Hurtigruten, plenty of other cruise ships make this tiny port a short stop. There are some excellent hiking opportunities from the village, as with most places in Norway. But Andalsnes isn't necessarily worth sticking around for too long. Buses meet up with the train to take people to the even more beautiful Alesund. But i said it once, i'll say it again, this train trip is not about the villages, but it is about the nature.

Now let's be fair, this is not the Qinghai-Tibet railway in China or the

Rocky Mountaineer in Canada. But it is a very beautiful trip. It is clearly geared towards tourists. There is a commentary in multiple languages and you get a free brochure as the trip starts. The special cars have extra large windows for your viewing pleasure and bathrooms for when you feel you need to wet yourself. Passing such landmarks as the Troll Peaks, Kylling Bridge and villages like Bjorli you are never far from a photo op. And the good news is, as a tourist train, it stops to get clear pictures (through glass that is).

The moral of the story is, if you want comfort travel at budget prices while taking in the beautiful scenery of Norway, one needs to look no further than the train.

Transittin' Trondheim

2011-09-03T19:56:00.010+05:00

My heart often goes a-pitter-patter when i hear things like "old capital". Almaty is cooler than Astana in Kazakhstan and Istanbul beats the pants off Ankara in Turkey. Formerly known as Nidaros, the city of Trondheim, Norway, does not exactly follow this pattern. To be fair, the capital was moved to Bergen (and later Oslo) nearly 1,000 years ago. Although the city lacks any of it's former capital luster, it's has a new, young life.

Built on the TrondheimFjord and sitting on the Nidelva river, the peaceful

waters surrounding Trondheim reflect it's nature, kind of. On the surface, Trondheim is just a typical lazy town. Semi-pedestrianized streets lined with boutique shops peeking out through trees is about a million miles away from the hustle and bustle of the big city. It is exactly what you'd expect out of a town with a population around 180,000. Fully functional with most of the amenities you'd need for daily life, is hardly a headline for any tourist brochure. A vibrant student population does breath some life into the town though. There is a bountiful plethora of cafes, bars and clubs for those so inclined. And, as is common for Scandinavian cities, parks and green areas abound with joggers, cyclists and loungers adhering to the "quality of life" mentality famous in the region. And while this makes for good living, it's hardly good tourist-ing.

The good news is the city is not without it's touristy-type highlights.

Like many Norwegian towns, Trondheim has it's own little old town. Across Gamle Bybro, the streets become largely devoid of traffic. Paved roads turn into cobble-stone street and the speed limit is set at "mosey". Many on the colourful river-side warehouse have been turned into shops and restaurants becoming one of the better (though expensive) places in town to grab a bite. A little further down the river the old Nidaros Cathedral and Archbishop's palace is a guaranteed stop on any Trondheim tour. Although, to be frank, a church is a church. And i've never been a fan of religious buildings that charge admission.

There are a couple other points of interest. A few museums are scattered about town ranging in themes from maritime to art to history to music. And for a decent view over town, Kristiansten Fort is easy to reach. But being there on a foggy, rainy day, i couldn't be bothered.

Trondheim ain't half bad. Be it's hardly a destination unto itself. It is an often used gateway to the arctic and a long stopover on the Hurtigruten cruise. And while it may not be worth coming all this way just for the town itself, if in the area, Trondheim is worth a day or two of your travel time.