Joe's Trippin'

A Nearby Distant Second

2013-05-12T23:37:00.002+05:00

It has been said that close only counts in horseshoes and hand-grandades (and maybe global thermonuclear devices). There can be little dispute that the indigenous cultural and touristic heart of Ecuador is the town of Otavalo. It would make sense that others would want a piece of the monopolized pie. Nearby, there is such a place. Heralded as the new Otavalo, or even "City of Peace" by UNESCO the tiny of village of Cotacachi is trying to make a name for itself.

On first impressions it's easy to see the comparisons with Otavalo. The pastel colonial architecture city surrounded by farmland and hills is almost carbon-copy. But with more speed-bumps per capita than any other village on Earth (made up statistic), Cotacachi is trying to establish itself as a more laid-back place (whether you like it or not). However, while the architecture in Otavalo would never be described as impressive, in Cotacachi it's even less so. And considering the village is a fraction the size of the already small Otavalo, there's obviously less to see.

Much like Otavalo, the market in Cotacachi is well touted. But, as the town is much smaller, so is the market. There is the main road in town to flaunts it's leather goods, but the feel of the place is it's just trying too hard. Congested on the weekends and deserted any other time, it fails to strike a happy middle ground. Cotacachi is far too forced. It is inorganic, manufactured and contrived.

Being a short, somewhat pretty hop on public transport from Otavalo, it's super easy to visit. Cotacachi is cute enough to grab a lunch on the weekend when stuff's actually open. However, even with the infrastructure (aka hotels and cafes) to host travellers, it's the sort of place where you'll need a good book or films on your laptop to fill the completely uneventful stay. Cotacachi is not a place to avoid, but time could be better spent elsewhere.

Free Fallin'

2013-05-09T03:28:00.001+05:00

Ecuador sure tries to milk its tourists, both domestic or international, for cash. Having to pay $5 for the privilege of hiking on half-assed maintained trail in Mindo. Paying over 5 times the cost of a bus to take a train, which takes 4 times longer, from Quito to Latacunga. And don't get me started on the $2,000+ you'll have to part with to see the Galapagos Islands. Everywhere is money... money.. money! So it's a real treat when you can get something for free.

Frankly, the thought of seeing another freakin' waterfall just doesn't do it for me. I've seen more than my fair share, some better than others. Having read a few reviews online of the Peguche Waterfalls, outside the town of Otavalo in the Ecuadorian highlands, i was hardly motivated. "The falls are fine, but nothing special" seemed to be the general consensus. But after 2 days of rain during my visit to Otavalo, and no sign of letting up, i figured, "Why not? I've got nothing better to do." First impressions weren't great. A couple half-built tacky souvenir shops blasting thump-thump music in an attempt to draw in the masses like a seafaring siren. I was almost ready to turn around and head back. I'm glad i didn't.

An exceptionally well maintained cobble-stoned pathway awaits visitors

once past the clutter of the entrance. Under the thick canopy the wonderfully atmospheric trail, complete with moss-covered stone walls trimming, winds its way through the forest. A variety of suspension or wooden bridges help traverse the inevitable river crossings. With the chirping of birds, the rushing of the river and drip-drop of rainfall, it was all rather serene. Not at all what i had expected.

At the end of the trail, the falls themselves are... well "...fine, but
nothing special." The 18 meter high falls were made especially full with the rain that had dampened the rest of my weekend, the projectile-style mist fogging up my camera lens from a fair bit back. Climbing up to viewpoints on either side get you a little more up-close and personal with the torrent. Perhaps a little too close putting the 'splash zone' at Seaworld to shame on the day i visited. And if the actions of locals are any indication, the lookout points make for great stolen moments as make-out points. But,frankly speaking, at the end of the day, it's just another waterfall.

There is more than just the falls to see. Down a little side path, next to
the river, a couple of naturally fed, though artificially built, pools camouflage well with the surrounding nature motif. It's true the entire site can be a little overrun (gross understatement) on weekends, or the huge Intirayami (summer solstice festival). But some random rainy Monday afternoon when i was there, i had the place all to myself. Shockingly, the nearly 30 minutes i spent hanging out at the pools, not a single other person came wandering by. It was as if i had unknowingly booked my own private session. It was absolutely wonderful and a great consolation prize for a weekend getaway that had otherwise been a total washout (literally)!

The falls at Peguche are never going to make anyone's bucket list of 100 places to see before they die. But, with a little extra time when passing through Otavalo, the 30-40 walk out of town (7 minute bus, 5 minute taxi) is certainly worth it. It's rare to get something for free in Ecuador, let alone a place with such great potential.

Not so Lindo Mindo

2013-04-29T00:08:00.003+05:00

Getting away from the hustle and bustle of the big city is always big on my 'to do' list. But recently it's been a bit of a struggle. With work keeping me chained to Quito, i was going a little batty. So, with a bit of schedule re-shuffling magic, i managed to score myself an actual 'weekend'. The only question was where to go. Not wanting the strain of overnight buses or the expense of domestic flights, i opted for the easy get-away to the cloud forest of Mindo.

Immediately, the choice paid off. The drive from Quito to Mindo is one of the prettier
ones i've been on in a while. The road itself clings haphazardly to the hillside all the while peering out onto the towering hills and plunging valleys. The thick virgin vegetation, having successfully smothered the terrain, seems to have its sights set on reclaiming the intruding paved thoroughfare. It's only 2 short hours to get to Mindo from the capital. Sadly the beautiful trip had to end. As i rolled into the tiny town of Mindo, i had no idea the best part of the trip was behind me.

The actual town of Mindo, with population hovering around 3,000, is nothing short of ugly! A
prime example of unsustainable tourism, there are likely more half-built hotels, internet cafes and restaurants than actual houses. On the weekends, the poor little town is so overrun with Quito holidayers, that the place better resembles a broken down old mule than a premier eco-tourism destination. Touts and tour companies hungrily scour through the crowds anyone wanting to part with their money for tubing, bird watching, zip-lining and of course taxis to any of those sights. I have nothing positive to say.

While Ecuador may not be as cheap as some neighbouring countries, Mindo takes overpricing to a whole new level. Although there are a couple budget accommodation options in town, normally mid-ranged places (overpriced at $20+) disappoint. Trying to find something to eat under $7 or $8 is a struggle. Everyone and their neighbour has a 'butterfly house' or 'bird sanctuary' in their backyard, for which they charge $2-$5 to see. That's not to mention the absolutely absurd notion of paying $5 to go hiking on trails, each with their own entrance fee. But luckily it's not the town of Mindo people come to see.

Surrounded by the 14,000 hectare Mindo-Nambillo Protected Forest,
the area is famed for its biodiversity. Boasting one of the highest per KM bird counts in the world, Mindo is a Mecca for bird watchers. Swarms of butterflies cloud the air around the rich variety of plant species. Hiking trails (all which charge a fee) allow for an up-close and personal commune with nature, albeit on a slightly manufactured scale. But whatever, for a guy who's been stuck in the congested, mildly polluted capital for longer than i would like, it was good to get some fresh air into my lungs and the buzzing of relentless traffic out of my ears.

I guess, as the saying goes, if you can't beat them, join them. If i had to part with some hard earned cash just to go for a stroll in the woods, i might as well get the most bang for my
buck. As far as trails go, all the ones in Mindo are pretty much the same. A fairly well marked, cleared off paths through the trees. But the Santuario de Cascadas (sanctuary of waterfalls) has the most to offer, by far. They say, "getting there is half the fun". In the case of the SdC, getting there is most of the fun. The 530 meter long Tarabita, zips you 100+ meters above the forest floor to the trails on the far side of the valley. While a small metal cage, haphazardly attached to a steel cable relying on the expertise on Ecuadorian engineering may not sound to alluring, the staff said it was safe. Why would they lie?

Provided you survive the Tarabita crossing, the well-marked

trails on the far side lead you to a series of waterfalls (perhaps better described as 'water-stumbles'). Rickety bridges straddle babbling brooks (which turn into blabbering brooks after heavy rains). Waterholes make for great natural swimming pools. Although on the weekends, there can be more swimmers than swimming places. It's really not such a bad place.

As far as city getaways go, Mindo was just fine. But it's hardly the premier eco-tourism destination it makes itself out to be. If you're a birder, Mindo is certainly a great place to check off "been there, seen that"species in a collectors book. But other than that, the town can be skipped by the average traveller.

Battlin' for Middle Earth

2013-04-04T20:39:00.000+05:00

For whatever reason, 'we' as an individualist, Western society (yes, i'm from Canada) have this incessant need to categorize, classify and compartmentalize. Demographics and regionalization are comprised of tick-boxes and imaginary boundaries in the sand. So, it would seem only natural that we divvy up our world in the same fashion. We have invented some arbitrary measurements of latitude and longitude to carve up the planet into bite-sized chunks. Few of these lines actually make any sense, except for the Equator.

The Equator is more than just a line dividing the planet into equal northern and southern hemispheres. It is the point at which weather patterns change, toilets flush in opposite directions and most importantly, you can stand an egg on its end. While the Equator runs through a dozen countries or so, there is perhaps nowhere easier to see it than just outside Ecuador's capital in a tiny tourist trap called Ciudad Mitad del Mundo.

Back in 1936, some dude named Luis Tufino did a few
calculations and figured out exactly where the Equator ran. The Ecuadorian government loved the idea and built a little monument marking the place. Unhappy with the early monuments understated-ness, the regional government upgraded to the 30-meter tall one seen today around 1980. But here's the kicker. Although Dr. Tufino's math is better than mine will ever be, he actually miscalculated the equator by several hundred meters. So, in actuality, the hordes of tourists and sightseers enthusiastically straddling the yellow painted line on the concrete thinking they have one foot in either hemisphere are actually just straddling some random yellow painted line on the concrete.

In the last few years, it is the development around the monument

that helps Cuidad Mitad del Mundo deserve its 'tourist trap' status. With a seemingly endless supply of tacky souvenir shops, unexciting cafes cranking their thump-thump music and half-assed pavilions (some free, some not), the area is less about geography and more about a money-grab. On the bright side, it's one of the easiest places to try a local delicacy, Guinea Pig.

Is Mitad del Mundo a tourist trap? Absolutely. Should it be avoided? No. Despite its geographic inaccuracy and overbuilt nature, it's still a cute place to take a tacky picture to impress your geographically challenged friends. There are even concerts and other such event to up the 'fun' level. This coupled with the fact it's a super easy side trip from Quito, it all makes for an entertaining afternoon.

Resurrectin' Easter

2013-03-31T07:22:00.001+05:00

I remember an innocent time. A time when the commercialization of Easter meant hunting for brightly coloured eggs which hopefully were found before the summer sun made finding the still lost rotten eggs mildly easier, though less pleasant, to rediscover. A era when children would savagely devour chocolate rabbits while laughing at the gradual disfigurement of the poor little bunny. OK... perhaps my childhood was a little disturbing, but that ain't nothing compared to Easter in Ecuador.

The UNESCO listed historic old city of Quito has been drawing an ever increasing number of international, and domestic, tourists to wander its aged streets. Founded in the 16th century, Historic Quito is often called the best-preserved and least altered historic centre in Latin America. With a history such as this, logic would clearly dictate that any event of culture or tradition would take place here. And with countless churches and monasteries, it would stand to reason that any occasion of religious significance would also happen here. Thus is the case of the festival of Jesus de Gran Poder.

The Good Friday procession commemorating the death and rebirth of Jesus Christ
is not unique to Quito. Actually, the tradition started by the Guild of Great Power in Seville (Spain) in 1477. But for anyone who just happens to stumble across the procession, it would seem like a odd mix of KKK rally, gay pride parade at the opening of an S&M conference. I'm sure the the pointed, purple cloaks wore by the faithful have some significance or another, but it's all just a little too Eyes Wide Shut.

But beyond the fashion statement, it's the acts of penance carried
out by the devout that the hordes come to see. Some strap themselves to logs, others carry massive crosses, a few wear actual crowns of thorns and there's even the odd self-flagellator. Bondage is the name of the game as the faithful beg for forgiveness for some unknown sin or ask for some favour or another. Literally thousands of costumed zealots take part in the procession every year, and at least double as many voyeurs come to stand by the road-side and cheer them on.

Actually, it's not nearly as gruesome as some might make it out
to be. Easter in the Philippines, where people actually crucify themselves, or Ashura in parts of the Muslim world where people actually cut and whip themselves are both much 'worse'. Jesus de Gran Poder in Quito is more like a costume party with the occasional drop of blood is spilt. After all, what's a religious party without a little blood? If in the area, the procession is most certainly worth checking out, but it's hardly one of those "fly around the world to see" kind of events.

Cleanin' Up in Baños

2013-03-20T19:26:00.001+04:00

Throughout my travels, i have from time to time had the unfortunate 'opportunity' to witness the saddening effects of irresponsible mass tourism. Places like Panajachel, Guatemala or Vang Vieng, Laos simply make my skin crawl. The plague of oblivious parasitic 'travellers' more concerned with Happy Hour than history have shaped once beautiful places into backpacker ghettos. I as warned about Baños de Agua Santa. So i took some precautions on my visit there.

The town of Baños de Agua Santa is beautifully set on the edge of the Ecuadorian Andes and the Amazon Basin. With the nearby, and rather active volcano Tungurahua, the added benefit of natural hot springs is a certain draw. If you add to that waterfalls in the middle of town, it's certainly a winning formula. Rumour has it on weekends and holidays, the tiny town becomes inundated with local tourists wanting to take part in the myriad of adventure activities available. The air filled with thump-thump club music, putt-putts of rental 4x4s and screams of bungee jumpers. If all that is on the weekend, there's a good argument to visit mid-week.

Frankly, the actual town of Baños is nothing special. Most businesses in town are either hotels,
cafes, internet shops or tour agents. The people are not overtly friendly. And it's hardly what you might call off-the-beaten track. That said, there is a certain charm to it. It is surprisingly chilled, whereas similar destinations around the world might mean being hassled every few metres to join whatever tour, it doesn't happen in Baños. And there are a lot of tours to join. White-water rafting, bungee jumping, mountain biking, zip-lining and all other adventure type activities are up for grabs. I was just looking for a simple hike or maybe a bike ride outside town. Sadly, the weather was less than co-operative when i was there.

On the bright side, the biggest attraction in town is not weather dependant. The natural mineral springs
which bubble up in and around the village are said to have healing qualities. And with the Picina de la Virgin having 3 different temperature baths, how could one resist. While the setting is pretty with the mountain backdrop and being underneath a waterfall, the actual springs themselves are little more than a glorified swimming pool filled with brown water. Even still, for a couple bucks, a nice soak can't be beat.

I went in expecting the worst. But, the town was not as bad as it could have been. There are enough hotels away from the centre that even on the weekends, you can get a bit of peace. While i have no real desire to check the place out on a weekend during a national holiday, i'm already planning another mid-week visit when hopefully i'll have a little better weather to explore the place more.

Akko is OK

2013-03-03T22:15:00.001+04:00

Maybe it's just me, but when i think of Israel, i think of old. At the very least dating back to biblical times. So when i hear of a place that claims to be one of the oldest, continuously inhabited cities in the region (although lots of places claim this) my interest is peaked. If you couple this with a UNESCO World Heritage listing and being the holiest city for followers of a religion, the seaside town of Akko sounded like the exact sort of place i'd want to be.

There are records that the city of Akko (aka Acre) dates back to the (at the very least) 10 centuries BC. But the port town didn't really gain prominence until the 12th/13th century as the capital for the Crusader kingdom of Jerusalem. The heavily fortified walls, plus the seaside location, made it pretty easy to defend. The place fell out of favour for a while before giving it another shot in the 18th century as the regional capital of the Ottoman empire. This combination of crusader and Ottoman influence does make walking the streets interesting.

A variety of mosques, churches, Khans (marketplaces) and forts hang around
every corner of the meandering alleyways. The walkable old town has been mostly restored and there are sign posts everywhere pointing to sites of interest. Personally, it was a little too fake for me. 'You are here' maps and signs mostly in English never let you forget that the place is a tourist trap. Many of the cool looking Khans are completely closed off and most things that are open charge admission fees. The one bright side is the market. Lining, and damn near clogging the streets an endless array of stall compete for customers. Many of the stalls sell cheap, Chinese crap, but a few jewels vend fragrances, spices and yummy little bites to eat. Kind of how a ancient market should be.

In the centre of it all is the heavily restored Akko Citadel (Hospitaller Fortress).
Probably the best value for admission money, the tower vaulted ceiling and stone staircases are of mild interest. And the use of lighting in some of the deep, dark parts of the building make for ok photos. The good news is, for those pinching pennies, at least the grounds (Enchanted Garden) are free to enter. After all, that where the visitor's centre is. There are a variety of other sites in old town, like the Templar Tunnels, the aforementioned Khans and museums. There even a number of museums and monuments to prisoners. All at a price. As for the 'new' town, it's really nothing special at all. The seaside promenade is nice enough to stroll along, if the weather is on your side. And there are couple of park to watch old men playing cards (or what-have-you) as they have since forever. But generally speaking, if not for the Old Town, there would be little to no reason to visit Akko at all.

But the other big attraction in town (well actually just outside town) is the
holiest place for followers of the Baha'i faith. The gardens in Akko surround the final resting place of Mirza Hussein Ali, later known as Baha'u'llah (Glory of God), the prophet founder of the Baha'i religion. The gardens are shrine are open the public, but frankly they pale in comparison to the far more impressive gardens terraces in nearby Haifa. Even still, they make for a pleasant walk around, although i wouldn't recommend walking to the gardens themselves from Akko.

Akko wasn't exactly what i was expecting, but i can see the appeal to cruise ship day-trippers. And the Baha'i gardens are a let down after Haifa's. However, Akko is super easy to get to for a day trip from Haifa and the one-two punch of old city and gardens make it worth the effort.

BaHaifa

2013-02-25T08:32:00.000+04:00

When thinks of Israel as the Holyland, a few rather related religions pop into mind, Judaism, Christianity and Islam. But there is yet another, somewhat lesser known, religion which calls Israel "home". The port city of Haifa and the surrounding area, in the northern part of Israel, is a place of pilgrimage for followers of the Baha'i faith.

The city of Haifa itself is rather ordinary. Sure it has all the amenities one

would expect from the third largest city in the country. Life centres around the sizeable port which has been in operation for nearly 3,000 years. But the city does not dwell on its past. A couple highly regarded universities as well as a high-tech industry keep the city on the cutting edge. The 137m Sail Tower acts a blending of the past and future. However, while there is certainly the cool, ritzy part of town, much of Haifa feels pretty downtrodden and generally rundown. So much so that locals even had to warn me about places i shouldn't go at night. And keep in mind, i'm a big, hairy scary looking dude. Frankly, if this blog entry were just about the city of Haifa alone, i'd say it would be an easy miss. The are really no redeeming qualities and time could be better spent elsewhere in the country. However, it is the Baha'i that have literally changed the landscape of the city.

I am by no mean a theologian, so excuse this religion in a nutshell synopsis.

The Baha'i faith is one of the world's newer religions. Although it calls guys like Moses, Jesus, Mohammed and even Buddha as its messengers, Baha'i wasn't really a religion until the mid-1800s. But with an estimated 7.5 million followers, this is hardly a backwaters faith. Some call it an off-shoot of Islam, but that's kind of like saying Christianity is an off-shoot of Judaism. It all started in Iran where a guy calling himself the Bab (gate) started to amass a following. this freaked out local Islamic leaders and the Bab was exiled. Some stuff happened, blah... blah... blah.. and the Bab was buried in Haifa.

The 19 terraces carved into the Haifa hillside, which now surround the Bab's Shrine, are nothing short of spectacular. They are the manifestation of serenity and symmetry. Worthy of a UNESCO listing, the shrine is even open to the public. Although many of the terraces themselves are off limits, you can take a guided tour from the top down. Money is not charged. And tips are not welcomed. They have no intention of extorting money, but simply sharing their faith. Not only a highlight of Israel, but of the world.

In terms of tourism, there is no doubt that the Baha'i terraces save Haifa's butt. Sure there are attempts at other things, like the so-called Festival of Festivals in December, bringing together all 3 religions , Judaism, Christianity and Islam (note the Baha'i snub) but it is the single worst festival i've been to in my life. Haifa is a city. Some will like it, i certainly did not. But the Baha'i Terraces transcend any negativity the city itself may project. For the Terraces alone, Haifa is a must see.

Holy!

2013-01-28T10:44:00.000+04:00

The holiest of the Holies. The centre of the universe (or close to it) for countless religious followers. The well-spring of movements would have had the most profound impact on our history, culture and entire belief structure. Books about of events that occurred in Jerusalem have come the moral foundation for billions of people around the world. There is no place like this on Earth. Jerusalem is most definitely one of a kind.

Today's Jerusalem is a vibrant city caught in the cross-hairs of the politics of
the world. Jerusalem is the capital of Israel. But the Palestinians want Jerusalem as their capital. With Palestine's growing recognition by more and more countries, Jerusalem is in the middle of political (and sometimes military) campaigns. It can be tense. But somehow, walking around the streets of "downtown", it's a really easy vibe. Clean, functional (mostly), familiar downtown is an easy place to be. The level of English in the city is native-like, if not native. All the big names are here: MacDonald's, Pizza Hut and all the others. New Jerusalem wouldn't be too out of place if you moved it to anywhere USA. But the thing is, it's not the "new" Jerusalem the faithful come to see.

The old city of Jerusalem is an absolute treat. Until about 150 years ago, there
was no new Jerusalem. The meandering alleyways through the Muslim, Christian, Jewish and Armenia quarters abound with shops, bakeries, butchers and tailors (just to name a few). It has an old world charm that defines the criteria of UNESCO listings. Barters, deals and scams have been perfected here over 1,000s of years. While tourism has now clogged the main arteries, it is super easy to diverge into side alleys of peace and tranquillity transporting you back to a time long since past. Frankly, the old city of Jerusalem is a lot more touristic for my tastes. I tend to prefer places like Sana'a Old City in Yemen. But I have to admit, I was impressed with the place. It is easy to see why nearly 3,000,000 tourists a year visit the city. But the crazy thing is, as cool as the old city is, the city as a whole isn't even close to the main attraction. It is, instead, a case of the tress outshining the forest.

Regardless of your religious persuasion, Jerusalem is the centre of the holy
world. The top two religions in the world (by numbers) can trace much of their history here, Christianity and Islam. And when you throw in Judaism, nearly have of the world's religious followers have a reason to make a pilgrimage to Jerusalem. For Jews, there is no holier place. Only one remnant of Solomon's temple of the temple mount, it's often referred to as the Western (or wailing) Wall. This is the closest that Jews are allowed to the actually Temple Mount itself (visiting the temple mount is punishable by Kareth. Personally, i had mixed feelings about visiting the place. While i tend to observe from a distance, many visitors were disgustingly intrusive of the praying faithful. But not even a few idiots could ruin the awe inspiring nature of the place.

The one thing everyone knows about Jerusalem is that it's right in the middle

of a real estate battle. And nowhere is more highly contested than the Temple Mount. The holiest place in Judaism happens to also be the 3rd holiest place in Islam. It is the place that the prophet Mohammed ascended to heaven. The highly recognizable Dome of the Rock sits on the foundation stone, the place where the world began. It also happens to be one of the more restricted places for sightseers to visit (surprise, surprise). There are specific hours tourists can visit. But, as is often the case, non-Muslims are not allowed to enter the holy buildings, including the Dome of the Rock itself. Still, wandering around the gardens is nice and it's always bustling. Not just with tourists, but with the religiously devout, here to attend a reading or teaching or one sort of the other. But, it is here that security seemed to be the tightest. And the was unrest as a group of young Jewish-israelis stood outside the main entrance chanting. While nothing came of it (this time), it has the feeling of a powder keg ready to go off.

Well, we can't leave out the Christians. The Church of the Holy Sepulchre is
the one-stop shop for Christian redemption. It is here that most believe the Jesus of Nazareth (aka Christ) was crucified and entombed and later (as the story goes) resurrected. It is a great site of pilgrimage, and boy do they come. Denominations seem to be left at the door as all Christians unite on this site. Of greatest importance seems to the stone, near the doorway, where Christ's body was supposedly first laid when he was removed for the cross. The ebb and flow of weeping faithful is tidal. Services seem never ending as chanting and incense fill the air. Frankly, the church itself is ordinary, and the masses of groups is a little overwhelming. But one cannot question the significance of this site. There is no other like it on Earth.

I haven't even begun to scratch the surface of the places to see and
the things to do in Jerusalem. The reoccurring theme in this entry is that there is no other place like Jerusalem of Earth. And it's true. With a mixture of modern and ancient, political turmoil, holy reverence for half the world's faithful, there is no wonder Jerusalem has been at the forefront of world news for 1,000s of year. This is little doubt it will continue to be for years to come. I am glad i got to go. Jerusalem may even be a place where i'd return. That's about as big a compliment as i can give a place.

A Christmas Visit

2013-01-12T23:06:00.000+04:00

I am not a religious man. I've read the books, well, maybe not cover-to-cover but i know enough about each. Some people call me a war-tourist. I've lived in Iraq and Yemen. I take holidays in Somalia and Afghanistan. However, i don't go to these places to celebrate the tragedy, but to search for the glimmers of hope. Despite my non-spirtual-affilliation or over-whelming desire to relish in misery, when in Jerusalem, you HAVE TO visit Bethlehem.

Super quick history lesson: So there was this young Jewish couple from a city
called Nazareth. They were told to travel to a town called Bethlehem for taxation census purposes. So Joseph travelled to Bethlehem "To be taxed with Mary his espoused wife, being great with child" (Luke2:5). Mary has the kid. They name him Jesus who grew up to start a religion called Christianity (you may have heard of it). So in the village of Bethlehem, a super short bus ride from Jerusalem, you can visit the birthplace of Jesus Christ. The Church of the Nativity, supposed built on the very place the "manger scene" occurred some 2,000+ years ago. The church is surprisingly understated. But that's how churches should be; a place to worship your God, not to worship the building. ANd, oh boy, do they come here to worship. It can be tough to find a moment of solitude. Even if you aren't religious, there is no question the profound significance this site has on the history and culture of the world. There is almost no place on Earth to so iconic.

While the Church of the Nativity would be a draw anywhere in the world, it is its location which is almost a bigger draw. The psuedo-country of Palestinian Territories is one of those geo-political enigmas. Should it be recognized? Is it an independent country? Is it part of Israel? One things for damn sure, Bethlehem is VERY different from Jerusalem. Crossing the "border" (aka the Fence), you enter a different world. Some tourists come here to just to see the wall dividing much of Palestine and Israel. I however, chose not to visit the wall. I was there to speak my horrible Arabic and have a nice shawarma. The old alleyways radiating out of the Church are wonderful old world. It's a shame most visitors skip the alleyways and get dropped off directly in front of the church.

There are a couple other minor sites in the area, but other than the church and
perhaps the market, there's not much else to do in Bethlehem. But Bethlehem does not need all the bangers and whizzers to wow the masses. It's got a pretty important church. One cannot disagree with the radical effect on the culture on the world. And the politics occurring here are at the forefront of nearly every news broadcast in the world. But Bethlehem is also a great place to wander around with a little Natacha Atlas playing in the background. Maybe not as old school as Yemen, Bethlehem is a taste of Arabic culture. Despite their issues, they are still welcoming to strangers. Bethlehem is a must visit for so many reasons.

Stoned Rose

2013-01-04T22:23:00.000+04:00

It seems everyone these days has a Bucket List. This is a list of 10, 50 or 100 places around the world that one absolutely HAS TO see before they kick the bucket (aka die). Some of these places are perhaps lesser known or maybe they're smaller scale. But if the New 7 Wonders or Smithsonian or any other major lists are any indication, the stone city of Petra is most assuredly on nearly everyone's must see places.

Dating back 2,000 years, the magnificent capital of the Nabataean Empire is

unquestionably one of the highlights of the world. The tremendous facades carved into the rose-red stone would be a feat these days, never mind 2 millennia ago. Easily the biggest draw in Jordan, up to 1,000,000 visitors a year have visited the site. It's the sort of place that has a new and amazing site around every corner. Any description here could go on ad nauseum. Frankly, with so much information out there, i don't have anything new or insightful to add. With that said, it's tough to talk about the place without mentioning the main places to see.

Entering through a Siq, a deep shaft acting as a dramatic corridor into the

ancient city, the first place you come upon is a doozy (title picture). The so-called Treasury (al Khazneh) has been featured in a number of movies, the most famous of which is likely "Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade". As the rumour goes, bandits used to hide the bounty in the urn at the top of the structure. But while the Treasury is impressive, in my opinion the most incredible ruin is al Deir (Monastery). Perhaps it's the reward at the end of the 800+ steps one has to climb to get there, but coming finally coming around the corner at the top to see the place is something special. Plus there are the added bonus of fewer tourists and magnificent views over the surrounding valleys from the nearby hilltop. One might argue that the smaller less visited ruins are more interesting as there is a very real possibility you'll have them all to yourself, without shutter-happy sightseers and money-hungry merchants. But the grace and beauty of the Treasury and Monastery are undeniable.

But Petra has its drawbacks too. The first one is the admission cost. At an

astounding 50 JD ($70) for a day ticket and an absolutely ridiculous 90 JD ($125) for day-trippers from Israel or Saudi, Petra is without question the most expensive site of its kind in the world. One can come up with a bunch of reasons for it but in comparison Chitzen Itza is $8, the Pyramids in Giza are $10 or the Taj Mahal is $15. The nearby town of Wadi Musa (much like Agra) is not interesting and can be quite the ripoff. But, similar to the Pyramids in Giza, it's the constant hassle from vendors and merchant wannabes that can be exhausting. Fore-warned is fore-armed. Knowing what to expect can make a visit manageable.

At the end of the day, the negative drawbacks of ridiculous admission costs or hassle simply can not outweigh the magnificence of the site. With a combination of natural beauty, history and architectural flare, Petra is certainly a world wonder and quite possibly one of the greatest sites on the planet.

Yawn-man

2012-12-28T23:06:00.002+04:00

Capital cities should provide thrills, chills and farcical spills. They should generate the kind of excitement that makes the hairs on the back of your neck stick up. Entertainment... cuisine... culture... history... Capitals cities should have it all. Amman does not.

It's not that Amman is a place, it's merely a... functional place. Amman is the
sort of capital where you catch a place or go to court or attend university. It's a place with the standards of developmental requirement deemed necessary to be proclaimed "an Urban Centre". There are banks and roads and malls. Sure there are a couple of minor attractions, and Rainbow Street is as close to you'll come to a nightlife in the Middle East. But there is nothing spectacular about Amman. But a paperweight doesn't need to be pretty, it just needs to do its job. Amman is the paperweight of Jordan. And it does it well.

The good news is, for those in town for a day or so, the "attractions" of the city
are all close together. The downtown area may not be much to look at, but it is here the city began. This is made more than obvious a restored Roman Theatre dating back nearly 2,000 years. Personally, i preferred the adjoining (but free) Odeon.At the time of writing, the entire square was in he midst of some sort of construction-type endeavour. It was unclear if they were trying to improve the place, or make it look worse for dramatic effect. The hike up to the citadel is equally as mildly entertaining. The hilltop offers nice views over the valley and downtown area. The citadel ruins themselves (dating back to the Bronze Ages) are better than some "rock-in-a-field" ruins i'd seen recently. The citadel here, is less interesting but is better organized than day-trip Jerash. These two sites, along with a couple mildly interesting mosques, there's not a whole heck of a lot to see in town. I was taken to the Starbucks, the new Burj Mall, then to a Sisha Cafe on Rainbow Street. It's what the locals do, an they seem happy enough (except for the occasional protests)

There's nothing wrong with Amman. It's fine (if you have a car). But, it's expensive, generally unattractive and uninspiring. It's fine if passing through, but there's absolutely no reason to spend any more time than necessary. There are bigger and better things to see out there!

You Bet Jerash

2012-12-24T00:10:00.000+04:00

Do you know how many generations there have been? Do you have any idea how many empires have come and gone? And here's the thing, damn near all of them have left something behind. Ruins are nothing new. Pretty much anywhere you go (except the New World) can you find ruins. I've seen a million. Some are better than others. There are a bunch of factors that can make ruins cool: historical relevance, setting, reservation/restoration, organization. Jerash has none of these.

Of the many empires in the world, the Greek and Roman certainly left there
share of ruins. There freaking everywhere in Europe, and damn near everywhere in North Africa and the Middle East. It really gets to the point that, "you've seen one, you've seen them all!" The thing about Jerash, just north of the capital Amman, is that Jerash is rather ordinary. One of its biggest claim to fame is being the birthplace of the late, great mathematician Nicomachus. Woo Hoo!! Gotta see that!!! And guys like Hadrian briefly passed through the city. But despite its nearly 3,000 year run, there is noting terribly interesting about Jerash. Either past or present.

Sure, Jerash is fairly well pieced together. But there are almost as many newly

fabricated pieces as there are original pieces. and if you've been to Balbaak, Palmyra, Ephesus, the Acropolis in Athens or colosseum in Rome, Jerash could never compare. But beyond the lack of historical relevance, state of preservation or grandeur, the place is also horribly organized. There was no signage anywhere. The tourist office is out of the way. The only display is in a dark tunnel where the "caretaker" was either unwilling or unable to turn on the lights. there were guides around although it was tough to see the difference between the official and unofficial guides. A sign of bad site management.

Costing 8 JD ($12) ain't cheap either. Prices like that can be found at Chitzen Itza or the Great Wall of China. Jerash is neither of these. Don't get me wrong. Jerash is a solid 6 or 7 on the cool oldness scale. If you've already been to some of the bigger ruins, Jerash will thoroughly unimpress. But, if you're a ruin virgin, then Jerash will do the trick.

Findin' More Than a Fort

2012-12-21T17:56:00.002+04:00

I do not enjoy the products of Disneyfication. This could be defined as taking something that is pure and true and making into something a glossed over to shadow its former beauty. Far too often do i visit some location of historical relevance only to find it altered into some overproduced, shiny tourist trap where you aren't allowed to touch anything. But Yemen is the last place on Earth you'll find anything Disneyfied. Yemen is raw life.

The area in and around the Haraz mountains of Central Yemen bear testament to majesty of Yemeni landscape. And the thing is, most of it remains unseen by tourist eyes. Yes, the area around Al-Hajjara is beautiful. Views from Kawkaban are great. But I was on some back road, shortcut between Tawila and Hababa. There was barely any local traffic, let alone an open-aired, double decker tour bus with someone emphatically pointing while screaming something about "And now on your left..." The death defying road hangs precariously over sheer drops. There are no guardrails in this part of the world. Breathtaking!!

But then, when you think it couldn't get any better, you happen upon a fort
which has been standing guard for several hundred years. Al-Zakatain fort is one of those places i didn't know about, had never heard about, and have not been able to find any information about, even though my job in Yemen had connections with the Ministry of Tourism. Al Zakatain is the sort of place that is sooooooo far off the beaten track, that the places off the beaten track haven't even heard about it. No ticket booths. No souvenir shops. No concession stands. Just a fort left to deteriorate under the weight of some former glory. The caretaker/squatter Mohammed and his wife seemed shock to have visitors. "But nobody comes up here" they said confused by my presence. For some pocket change Mohammed was more than happy to open doors and let us poke around. No safety procedures here, as Mohammed is more likely to encourage you closer and closer to the drop-of-certain death he insisted would make better picture.

Now Zakatain Fort may lack the grandeur of other forts. The history which

took place here perhaps does not measure up to the events of elsewhere. But for me, Zakatain provided something so much more important. I felt a sense of discovery. I'm fully aware that I was not the first person to have ever set eyes on the fort. Heck, for the few tourists visiting Yemen, the short jaunt uphill from Hababa is fully doable. But for a moment, just a moment, it felt like i found this place and it was mine. In an ever-spreading guidebook-led sheepish tourist culture, i had the opportunity to capture to explorations of Marco Polo or those like him. I know someplace like Zakatain may not impress some. Even i have been bored with similar places i've visited in the past. But i had my own moment at Zakatain. You're more than welcome to try the same thing, but i guess that sort of defeats the purpose of exploration. So perharps you're better off finding your own "Fort Zakatain".

Ennui in Mawheet

2012-12-17T15:58:00.001+04:00

One of the problems with being in one place too long is you start to run out of travel highlights. The things that make a place special or unique. Revisiting is nice, but i'm big on new experiences. I'd been in Yemen quite a while having done 2 contracts there. And i'd been around the country a fair bit. So it was getting to the point where secondary sites were all that was left. Hence, i made a plan to visit Mahweet.

Only about 2 hours North-West of the capital Sana'a, Mawheet not
so many tourists make it out to see. It's not because it's dangerous, unknown or difficult to get to, it's just there are so many other cool places to see. The drive up is a nice one, if you take the back road from Hababa it can be down-right stunning. But once you arrive into town, it's all very blase. Mahweet lacks the views of Kawkaban, or the setting of al-Hajjara. Mahweet is not the quiet mountain village Yemen is so famous for. Instead, the constant buzz of motorcycles and generators fill the air. On first impression, Mahweet is actualy not terribly nice at all.

The town is not without it's charms. A nearby lookout does give pretty views
over the valley (if it's not fogged in). But the jewel in the slightly worn crown is the hilltop al-Masn'ah Fort. The old walled city overlooking the newer town is the real draw here. A complete pedestrianized (with a few cows) labyrinth of narrow alleyways have many hidden secrets. Some of the stone work is lovely. With few foreigners out this way, kids seem to come out of the woodwork to act as impromptu guides. And without the corruption of irresponsible tourism, it is honest to goodness hospitality. However, the old city here just doesn't compare to others in the in country. This is probably why it is not a major highlight of the country. Even still, the old city is pleasant enough to stroll around for 30 minutes, an hour if you want to do it twice. But that's about it. The good news is the one hotel in town, is excellent value for money, so if bored or unimpressed, you could always settle in for the night saving energy for explorations elsewhere.

Mahweet is not a bad place. It's just not a country highlight.
Frankly, if it were in Oman or any of the Gulf States, it would be the #1 tourist destination. But in attraction rich Yemen, it falls by the weigh-side. One thing of note, Mahweet was the first place in Yemen since Seiyun/Shibam that i had a mandatory police escort. Once they found out we were in town, they parked outside the hotel and walked with us everywhere. It was not asked for, nor did they ask for money. My guess is our friends at the tourist police in Sana'a made a call to make sure nothing happened to us. Overall, Mahweet wasn't a bad place. If you have tonnes of town to kill while in country it might be worth a visit. Otherwise you time would be much better spent elsewhere.

No Hobbits, just Habb

2012-12-13T12:16:00.002+04:00

My planning skills have not been up to snuff recently. The plan was to bring some of my staff to the "green city" of Ibb with a side trip to Jibla. Frankly, neither place is terribly exciting, but beggars can't be choosers in the new Yemen with limited travel opportunities. With some time to kill, i arranged an extra excursion to some fort i had heard about. Expectations were low. It was just to waste a little time really. Who woulda thunk it'd be one of the coolest places in Yemen?

If you mention Hasn al-Habb to most Yemenis outside of Ibb, chances are they've never heard it. And frankly, why would they? The "Fort of Grain" (as it translates) is not on any of the tourist brochures. It doesn't make a mark in the history books. And, unlike many other architectural or historical highlights of the country, it isn't on the money. So when someone mentioned it to me in passing, i didn't think much of it. It's impossible to find info on it. I was the guest of a member of the government on my visit to Ibb, so he offer to drive me the 30 minutes or so outside of town to check the place out. I'm so glad i did.

Trying to find any reliable information about the imposing fort is tough. Locals
seemed to agree that it predated Islam in Yemen. But got most of its use around the Ottoman period. Since then, it has simply fallen into disrepair. To be honest, most of the buildings on the site are ordinary. They are not big or ornate or historically relevant. There's a simple mosque, and a couple of houses or military buildings, but nothing is kept up. There are a few donkeys around if that gets you excited. One thing, it is fun to climb in and out of the old granary-storage-type-areas (it is the Fort of Grain, remember?) However, for the most part it's not about what's in the fort, but where the fort is.

The views over the green country-side below are nothing short of amazing.
And arguably better than places like Kawkaban or al-Hajjara. Sudden cliff faces and surely fatal falls await you around every corner. The highlight being the Lord of the Rings-esque walk to the top of the fort (title picture). It is a 360 panorama of views. This is not what you would expect from a Middle Eastern country. The surrounding country-side is filled with farms (mostly Qat) Ibb gets the most rain in the country, and possibly even the entire Middle East region. As such, the vegetation shoots down any misconceptions anyone may have of sweeping dune and desert wasteland.

Nobody comes here. Even locals rarely visit it. There are passing mentions in a couple guidebooks, but i don't know any foreigners who have visited the site (i'm sure there are a few). If in the Ibb area, Hasn al-Habb is DEFINITELY worth the detour.

Har-az-stounding

2012-11-30T14:31:00.000+04:00

So, you think you know the Middle East. Lawrence of Arabia-esque sweeping sand dunes cover seemingly endless expanses of nothingness only to be interrupted by ridiculously tall skyscrapers built on made made islands housing indoor ski hills in 40C weather. To be fair, after decades of erroneous media portrayals, one could hardly be blamed. Sure, there are some part of of the region that may fit this description. But the Haraz region of Yemen could not be any more different.

About 2 hours south-west of the Yemeni capital, Sana'a, the Haraz region is
not at all what you may expect from the Middle East. A lush, green fertile land shrouded in mist spans out over mountain peaks and ancient stone villages. When tourism existed in the country, the Haraz mountains beaconed to hikers to wander its hills and valleys. The multi-leveled terraces of various agricultural delights in more reminiscent of South-East Asia than the English Patient. At an altitude of well over 2,000 meters night can be rather cool and crisp. And being miles away from any remnants of urbanization the air is fresh and clean. The place, both literally and figuratively, takes your breath away.

While nearly every hilltop or rocky outcropping sports its own cute little clump
of ancient stone houses, the jewel in the regional crown is undoubtably al-Hajjara (title picture). What the tiny village may lack in population or infrastructure, it more than makes up for in grandeur. Gentle stone giant dangle precariously over a precipice. The single village gateway opens up into a exclusively pedestrian tangling of quasi-pathways formed more by the fact that they're spaces between houses than by actual design. Curious eyes peak out from every window and hidden corner as, although this was once a tourist Mecca, few foreigners make it up here anymore. Al-Hajjara is a special place.

There are several other villages of note in the region. It is virtually impossible
to visit the area without at least stopping in Manakha (above). This is the transport hub of the district and the largest of all nearby villages. With a couple "restaurants" and hotels, it is also the place with the most tourist facilities. However, it is a bit of a hole and your time is much better spent elsewhere. Another village of note is Hutayb. An important location for the Tayyibi Ismalilis (a sect of Islam), the pretty tomb of Hatem bin Ibrahim al-Hamidi (the 3rd di'a of the religion) along with the overall feel of the pilgrimage site is unique in the region. Easily reachable by road, or multi-hour hike, it's certainly worth a stop.

The question I get all the time is "Is it safe?" Well, 'safe' is a relative term.
Thailand is rated as the 2nd most likely place where tourists will die. Is Thailand safe? Red24 lists Mexico as having one of the highest chances of kidnapping in the world. Is Mexico safe? Well, I would never use the word safe for Yemen, and the Haraz region is no different. There have been foreign abductions here. And the Houthis, a group leading the charge in anti-Amercanism, is rampant in the region. I was the personal guest of the Sheik of the area. He, along with his dozen or so heavily armed body guards, ensured our safety. But the chances are you are more likely to be 'killed by kindness'. The overwhelming hospitality of the people was astounding. We were not permitted to pay for anything. Virtually the entire village (well... the men anyway) turned out for huge banquet dinners in our honour. It was a great experience.

Haraz is the sort of place that can change your entire world view. It will dispel any preconceived receptions you may have had about the regions geography, typography and just about every other '-ology'. With great views, fresh air and wonderful people, it is not only a special place in Yemen, but possibly the world.

Mosquing the Problem

2012-11-22T11:42:00.000+04:00

It never ceases to amaze me, the things we do in the name of religion. We have gone to war for religion. Killed for religion. Sacrificed for religion. And built astounding monuments for religion. More often than not, any city entry in a guide book will most assuredly point you in the direction of a nearby mosque, cathedral, synagogue or temple. They are places where the devout masses congregate to pay homage to their deity. Of course, Sana'a is no different. The shiny new Saleh's Mosque in the Yemeni capital, though, somehow seems a little unholy.

Opened in 2008, Saleh's Mosque is unquestionably the new kid on the block in
a city older than history itself. And it certainly is grand. With 6 minarets reaching 100m into the sky, 4 small (20m high) domes surrounding a central huge (40m high) dome, the building can be seen from nearly anywhere in the city. As you approach the building, it's grandeur becomes more and more apparent. Sprawling gardens and parking lots are laid to accommodate the possibility of 44,000 worshipers. Massive doors swing open, even to non-Muslims (one of the few mosques non-Muslims can enter in the country) to reveal spectacular halls. Children play. Families picnic. Words like lavish and opulent seem insufficient to describe the interior. The complex was designed to rival some of the grandest mosques in the world, a bridge between Yemen's cultural heritage and strive for modernity. Clearly, no expense was spared on the mosque. Wherein lies part of the problem and almost distain by the local population.

As part of the Arab Spring in 2011, Ali Abdullah Saleh (the then president
of Yemen) was ousted in a popular revolution. This is the same guy who financed the mosque and narcissistically named it after himself. This reason alone would be enough for locals to turn against the building. But it gets worse. Costing an estimated $60,000,000, in a country deemed by Transparency International to be one of the most corrupt countries on Earth, one questions where the money came from. While this might not seem like a big deal in a western country looking to build a new stadium for the Olympics, the UN Development Index put Yemen near the bottom of the list. So really, the money could have been spent in much better ways. To rub salt in the wound, the family who owned the land, Beit Zuhra, initially refused to sell their land at ridiculously low price. Story goes, their son was then kidnapped and returned when the family finally agreed to settle. As if all that wasn't bad enough, the mosque is rumoured to be cursed, as there were repeated incidents during construction. It is nearly impossible for the religiously conservative local population to speak ill of anything remotely associated with their religion. But the distain in the eyes of many, when speaking of the mosque, is hard to hide.

There are worse stories in the world. The Pyramids of Giza were built on the blood of slaves. Ivan the Terrible of Russia blinded the architect of St. Basil's Cathedral. Time seems to have forgiven those transgressions. Considering most people don't even know the story of Saleh's Mosque, it seems its issues have already been forgotten. Frankly, in a city hardly teeming with tourist sites, the mosque will undoubtably draw in visitors, especially since it's open to non-Muslims. If in town, it's kind of hard to miss. Whether you choose to visit it, it light of its history is up to you.

Messed Up Massawa

2012-10-12T23:20:00.002+05:00

You'd think i'd know better. Logic would dictate that Red Sea costal Africa in the dead of summer would be scorching hot. Guidebooks will warn you against visiting the area in summer due to intense heat. Heck, even personal experience has taught me the the Red Sea coast in summer is like hell on Earth. So i have no idea what i was thinking by visit the Eritrean coast in August, namely the port city of Massawa.

Massawa is noted for its incredibly high summer humidity and its mean annual

temperature is one of the highest in the world. I've been around. I know hot. But Massawa in the summer is a whole other story. It's impossible to step outside without sweating through your clothes. To complicate matters, with very untrustworthy electricity (and limited generator capabilities) you can't even count on hiding inside your air-conditioned hotel room. One would wonder what the point of visiting an unbearably hot gritty port town in Eritrea would be. But the place isn't a total loss.

Arguably the biggest draw to Massawa is the 'getting there'. The road from the lofty, 2,300 meter high capital of Asmara nose dives to the sea in spectacular fashion. The scenery is lovely as you pass through tiny villages on the way down to the coast. Even better is if you can manage to get on the restored Italian train that goes about halfway down the hill. But the drive alone isn't much of a reason to visit.

Due to the very restrictive nature of the Eritrea travel permit situation,

Massawa is one of the few places you can even visit in the country. However, even if there were more places open to tourists, Massawa would still likely be a prime destination in the country. The architectural style, and indeed the general atmosphere of the place, are like nowhere else in the country. The predominantly Ottoman/Islamic building style set the town apart. The dirt covered back alleyways and deteriorating facades simply feel authentic. This is not a glazed over tourist trap trying to sell some sort of illusion of yesteryear, this is the real deal. However, due to the increased tourist presence and the general lack of sense in terms of responsible travel, Massawa is also the place where i unquestionably got asked for more more often, or got cheated for prices. Constant calls tries to lure you into shops for a "tea ceremony". It was certainly more than just the heat that made me uncomfortable in Massawa.

The thing is, even if you ignore the heat for a moment, once you've walked

around the old part of town for 30 minutes or so, you've seen everything. Sure there's a statue of a tank, an old airplane and the old palace is cool, but everything is super spread out. it is at this time i'd like to reintroduce the unbearable heat. Many (if not most) people come to this part of the world for the diving. While it can't really compare to diving in Egypt, it's not bad, maybe even above average. But the costs are sky-high. In fact, much of Massawa is disproportionately expensive. There are several hotels in town. While they are nice, they all have rather un-nice price tags more accustomed to wealthy diaspora and destination tourists. And as with anywhere else in the world, the hotel restaurants (the only real game in town) are equally as wallet draining. The good news was that the bus station was the one i had the least difficult at when trying to leave town. Because almost as soon as i arrived, i was ready to leave.

It's strange. Considering the seaside location, borderline magnificent drive, unique architecture and "abundance" of tourist infrastructure, one would think that a visit to Massawa was a no-brainer. And perhaps if i had had the chance to visit at any other time than the dead of summer, i might have come away with a different impression. But I did not enjoy my time in Massawa, and i couldn't wait to get back to the cooler (both in temperature and atmosphere) highlands

Carin' for Keren

2012-08-31T20:42:00.014+05:00

In some ways, Eritrea is an easy country to travel. After all, considering the majority of the country is off limits to visitors (or even locals), there isn't much need to plan where to go. Essentially, travellers are confined to a 'tourist triangle'. The top of the triangle (and the furthest north you could travel at time of writing) is the market city of Keren. So, with few other options on the table, Keren is exactly where i headed.

Although it's Eritrea's second largest city, Keren is hardly what you'd
call an urban environment. Located in a basin, surrounded by mountains, Keren is likely Eritrea's prettiest (at least the prettiest you're allowed to travel to). But the town itself isn't really much. You could literally walk from the north-to-south or the east-to-west in 30 minutes or less. The tiny bazar is diminutive in both size and experience. There's a pretty church or mosque or two, but i never have to see another church or mosque as long as i live. The city has a smattering of Italian colonial architecture, which is just as unspectacular as the stuff you'll find in the capital Asmara. In short, the city of Keren is ordinary.

But here's the thing, travellers don't come here for the city. And it's not
even for the provincial feel of the place. Instead, it's the kick ass camel and wood market. Early Monday mornings, the dry riverbed that makes up the downtown core of the town erupts in an explosion of colours, sounds and smells. Home to the Bilen ethnic group, villagers from the surrounding area all make it into the "big city" to sell their wares. While there is some plastic Chinese crap, a surprising number of handicrafts (namely pottery) poke up here and there. But it's the Bilen people themselves and local rural tradition that are the real draw. With large nose piercings and facial scarring, the people are wonderfully photogenic. Sadly, they seem rather camera shy. The LP suggests paying people to take their picture, but having seen the deplorable human zoos in the Omo Valley in Ethiopia or Northern Thailand, such behaviour is not something i condone and certainly not something i choose to participate in. Even still, the market is great (and for me the highlight of the country)

In the event you miss out on the camel market, there is a plan B.
Mariam Da'arit is one of those unique little attractions that almost become a guilty necessity. Mariam Da'arit is a baobab tree. In and of itself it may not sound so exciting, although baobab is fun to say. The story goes, that back in 1881, Vicar Apostolico Msgr Touvier made the hollowed out interior of the tree into a shrine. Then, as if to substantiate the 'holiness' of the site, in the 1940's rumour has it Italian soldiers took shelter in the tree during an English bombing raid. Although the tree was hit, they survived. If you're lucky enough to be in town on May 29th, apparently 1,000s of faithful make a pilgramage to the site, famous for it's fertility powers. Frankly other than that, the shrine is really little more than a tree.

Part of the charm of a tree out to Mariam Da'arit (about 20 minute walk out of town) is the walk to get there. Strolling past more traditional houses, and followed by throngs of giggling children, it is more like what i thought Eritrea would be. While i'm not entirely sure the destination at the end of the walk is superb, the walk itself most definitely is.

I can't remember the last time i liked something i was pretty much forced to do. With limited travel options in Eritrea, Keren is pretty much forced on anyone looking to travel around the country. But i kind of liked it. It may not have been a 'change your life' sort of place, but it certainly has it's moments.

Asmara the Eye Can See...

2012-08-24T21:13:00.014+05:00

I like being surprised. Sadly, it doesn't really happen much anymore. I went into the Eritrean capital of Asmara thinking that i knew what to expect. I'd been to enough regional capitals to have sensed a pattern on the flow of things in the area. But like i say, i like being surprised.

One thing's completely unsurprising about Asmara, it really doesn't have any

sites or attractions of any note what-so-ever. Reading any guidebook about the place, the overwhelming theme seems to highlight the Italian colonial architecture. Being an Italian colony for nearly 60 years (1890-1947), there was certainly enough time for the occupiers to make their mark. True, walking down the main street, Harnet Street, is it kind of like stepping back in time. Not only are there the faded facades of the buildings, but i loved that little Fiat 500s were used as driving school vehicles. But, frankly, some mediocre architecture and cute little cars are hardly enough to justify a major tourist draw.

One of the main reasons tourists come to Eritrea is to take the famous old Italian railway which used to run from Asmara to the port city of Masawa. Although it fell into disrepair, the eritrean authorities renovated it. But it only runs for tourist purposes and only if there are enough people to make it worth the trip. Unfortunately, it's hard to find info. The morons at tourism information are useless. My hotel kept trying to call, but got no answer. Even visiting the station a couple of times proved fruitless. In the 2 weeks i was there, i had no confirmation of the train going at all. But that's what i get for going to one of the least visited countries on Earth, in the off season, during Ramadan, while the Olympics are on, in a middle of a global financial crisis.

But what was absolutely flabbergasting was the entire flow of the city. Unlike the hectic chaos and quasi-anarchy of cities like Addis Ababa or the pure hell of Djibouti, Asmara has an almost unnaturally chilled out feeling. It's surprisingly clean. It's also the sort of place where you can haphazardly saunter across the street without having to fear for your life. There is little to no hassle at all from locals in terms of schemers or scammers. And beggars are almost scolded by other locals when they try to target the few foreigners in the country. Almost most surprising was the social life of the locals. Harnet Street fills up every night with young people just wanting to be seen. The endless number of cafes, restaurants and bars overflow with patrons. While they don't order anything other than a bottle of mineral water for 5 friends to nurse over an hour (making it really hard to get a seat anywhere), they are still out. This is made all the more shocking considering Eritrea is one of the top 5 poorest countries on Earth and subsequently one of the least developed.

So there is nothing of interest to see or do in the city and the horrible exchange rate makes it disproportionately expensive. But, as the 6th highest capital in the world, the climate is usually comfortable (although rainy in the "summer"). Plus it's super laid back and stress free. The bottom line is with all 3 borders to neighbouring countries closed to foreigners and the port of Masawa not handling passenger ferries, anyone visiting Eritrea will have to enter via Asmara (not to mention it's where you get the mandatory travel permits). There might not be anything in town to make you stay, but there is also no reason to leave on the first bus headed anywhere.

Travellin' Eritrea

2012-08-17T12:11:00.013+05:00

Of all the places i have visited, very few have created as much interest as my recent trip to Eritrea. I'm not really sure why. With an estimated 80,000 tourists a year (mostly diaspora), the country does rank as one of the least visited non-island nations on Earth, but i've been to places even less visited. Eritrea also ranks as one of the poorest countries on Earth in terms of GDP per capita and one of the least developed according to the UNDP's Human Development Indicators, but i've been to poorer and less developed countries. Whatever the reason for the interest in my trip, i've decided to write an overview of the country.

VISAS - It is impossible to make an overall statement on visa procedures as they seem to vary tremendously from embassy to embassy. I got mine at the embassy in Sana'a, Yemen, where i am currently living and working. All i needed were 2 photos, scans of my passport and Yemeni residence visa (which they did at the embassy), a letter from my employer and $40. They told me it would take a maximum of 2 weeks, but it took 18 days.

But here's the thing, there seems to be a major shift in visa procedures. In the spring of 2011, while previously living in Yemen, i had planned a trip to Eritrea. At that time, the embassy itself was able to give out visas and the procedure took 2 days (however i was force-evacuated from Yemen and was unable to go to Eritrea at that time). But these days, it seems all embassies have lost the power to give out visas and now everything has to go though Asmara (similar to Turkmenistan or Iran). It is unknown if rejection rates are higher, but it certainly makes the visa procedure much longer.

TRAVEL PERMITS - Travellers to other regional destinations like Sudan or Somaliland will be very familiar with travel permits. Eritrea is not immune to these. Technically, you need a permit to travel anywhere outside of the capital, Asmara. But it really depends on what you want to do. There are no checkpoints, like in Yemen, and not a single bus driver asked me for one to get on the bus. The only reason for the permits is if you want to stay overnight outside the capital. And hotels do ask for them.

To get a permit, you need to visit the Tourism Information office on Harnet Street, across from the cathedral, in downtown Asmara. You tell the worker where you want to go and when you want to go there, pay your 20-40 Nakfa ($1.50-$2.50), then come back to pick up the permit when they tell you. Unfortunately, the workers at the tourism office are the most useless collection of individuals ever assembled under one roof. They don't actually provide any information. They have no suggestions on what to see, or where to stay. There are no maps (not even for sale). And they can't even tell you where you can/can't go in the country.

I met an Italian guy in the office (married to a local girl) who had been to Eritrea 6 times over the last 8 years. He said that 2012 was by far the most restrictive in terms of travel he has ever experienced. Places that were previously opened were now closed. He was unable, for the first time, to visit the village (north of Keren) where his wife is from. For the average tourist that wouldn't matter. What would matter is that ALL monasteries are currently off limits. And ruins, such as Qohaito, are only accessible for organized tours of 5 people or more. This essentially limits all travellers to the Keren-Asmara-Massawa triangle. But not even that's a guarantee, as an American traveller i met in the office had his permit to Massawa rejected (no reason given)

But most frustrating is waiting for the permits. As i wanted to remain a little flexible, i did not want to set my entire 2 weeks in stone. It's ok to add one place to the permit, go away, then add another place when you come back. My first permit (to Keren) was a piece of cake. I applied early Saturday morning, then by Saturday noon i had the permit. Great!!. But it was all downhill from there. Upon my return, i applied to go to Massawa on Tuesday afternoon. I was told that i could pick up the permit on Wednesday at 10:30 (the time told to everyone). When i got there, i was told it wasn't ready, and had to wait a few minutes. Whatever, it's Africa after all. An hour and a half later, it still wasn't ready and the office was closing for lunch. I has to come back at 2:30. It wasn't even ready then. I didn't get it until 4!!. I had already checked out of my hotel, but by 4 it's far to late to get a bus. So i was stuck in Asmara another day.

But that's not the worst of it. Upon returning from Massawa, i applied to go as far south as i was allowed, Dekemhare. I applies on the Friday, and was told to come back on Saturday morning (10:30). I was told because the moron worker had written in English, the permit was rejected. As the office was closed on Sunday, i was told to come back for a new permit on Monday (at 10:30). When i showed up on Monday, they had forgotten about it and said come back in the afternoon. When i returned later, i was told it still hadn't been submitted. They even told me they didn't have a phone to call head office, even though there's a phone right on the front desk which i know for a fact works. Essentially meaning they thought i was stupid enough that they could lie right to my face. Frustrated, i went right to the source, Mr. Santo at the tourism ministry, to finally get the permit. But as i was leaving on Tuesday, i was unable to visit Dekemhare. I ended up wasting 5 days in Asmara because of incompetence. It was very frustrating.

TRAVEL - Once you actually managed to get the permit, i found travel to be surprisingly civilized. Buses travel the main routes (it's not like you can go off-the-beaten path anyways) They are cheap, from 30-100 Nakfa depending on if it's public/private, bus/minibus. One huge surprise is they do not overload the buses like the do on the Chicken buses in Guatemala or any transport in India. They fill the seats, then that's it. But i damn near had a heart attack when i saw the organization of waiting for the bus. when you arrive, you put your bag or rock or empty coke bottle in a line. Then as each bus shows up, you stand next to your "marker", the driver writes a number on your palm and you get on the bus. It's nothing like the 'every man for himself' routine in neighbouring Ethiopia.

But here's the bad news. Demand FAR exceeds supply. It is not uncommon to wait hours for a bus. The LP said there were 30-40 buses a day between Asmara and Massawa. I went to the station at 7 am and waited until 12 (with 400 other people) not a single bus arrived. I was told the day before there had been only 4 the whole day. Eventually, a couple diaspora i had friended in line opted to organize a private mini-bus for themselves, me and 21 other 'new best friends' in line. Similarly, i had to wait 3 hours in Keren to get back to Asmara, and 2 hours in Asmara to get to Keren. Surprisingly, there was no wait in Massawa to return to Asmara. I didn't even bother trying to get to Dekemhare when it saw the unbelievably long line.

Travellers can rent a car, with driver or not, and of course there are organized tours. But with cost ranging anywhere from $70-$150/day, it was WAY out of my budget as an independent budget traveller.

MONEY - Although Eritrea is one of the poorest countries on Earth, i found it to be one of the most expensive. While i'm certainly no economist, nor an expert on the Eritrea economy, there are a few obvious reasons for the inflated costs. Firstly, the exchange rate. Much like Uzbekistan or Myanmar, the local currency (the Nakfa) is not accurately valued. This means the official exchange rate (15 ERN = $1) does not reflect the buying power of the dollar. However, unlike Myanmar or Uzbekistan, black market exchange is virtually non-existant.

When you enter the country at the airport, you have to fill in a currency declaration form stating how much cash you have on you. Any time you exchange money, it is deducted from this amount and stamped by the company. You can only exchange at hotels, banks and Himbol exchange. They do not actually count your money when you arrive (although they did when i left) and there is no minimum support fund requirements for the country. But the form has all but killed any black market. There are a couple guys hanging out outside the Ambassador Hotel downtown Asmara (i don't know the rate), but black market exchange incredibly risky and has serious consequences.

Another reason for prices are the ridiculous import taxes imposed on foreign goods. Namely alcohol, cigarettes and such. I found it incredibly difficult to eat for less than $10. Fast food is the name of the game at restaurants. A burger at a hole-in-the-wall was $7, pasta was $8, a small pizza was $12. Local food, if you could find it, was usually $15 or more. I tried a number of restaurants in Asmara, Massawa and Keren with the same result. I found one place with beans, eggs and bread for $5, but i got food poisoning. Hotels were much the same. While you could find a roach infested shit-hole with unusable shared toilets for $10-$15, i wasn't until the $30 range that you could find anything habitable. That said, for $50, places were quite comfortable with all amenities.

OVERALL - While having some similarities to other regional capitals, Asmara is a very different. It has a similar climate to Addis Ababa, dues to their altitude, but Asmara is much more laid back (it's also a fraction of the size) And Asmara has none of the relentless hassle of Djibouti City. Actually, there was very little begging and no hustlers. Even if someone tried asking for money, locals would scold them as if it weren't allowed. That is except for the rather persistent "softee-masstika" (tissue and gum) kids at the bus stations.

Keren was much friendlier and more welcoming than coastal Massawa. In general, i found the Eritrean people to be quite friendly and helpful (except for those at tourism information). But friendliness alone is not a reason to recommend a place.

The countryside was quite pretty, although i wouldn't say spectacular. Sadly, the restored Italian train, arguably the biggest tourist attraction to the country, did not operate once during the 2 weeks i was there.

But the bottom line is, there is really nothing special to see or do in the country. The colonial Italian architecture is only for the most die-hard enthusiasts. The diving in Massawa is ordinary at best (not to mention crazy expensive). The ethnic Bilen (and others) are interesting to look at, but i was uncomfortable taking pictures. While the LP suggests paying them to take a photo, having seen the practice result in human zoos in Northern Thailand or the Omo Valley Ethiopia, this is not a practice i condone, and certainly don't participate in.

Eritrea is not a place that i would say "don't go" (like the dreaded Djibouti), but considering the pain-in-the-ass it is to get in and get around, the disproportionate expense and incredibly restrictive travel for little to no reward, i can't really recommend the place either. Eritrea is a place to go to say you've been there. That's about it.

Unhidden Heidelberg

2012-07-31T14:37:00.000+05:00

It goes without saying that WWII wasn't the most shining time in German history. But beyond the obvious human toll, the bombardment of the country permanently erased erased any number of architectural gems. While the country rebuilt, it just wasn't the same. History was lost forever. However, a few places managed to emerge unscathed from the war. Just outside of the modern transport hub of Frankfurt, the town of Heidelberg is just such a place.

Perched in the River Neckar in a steep valley of the Odenwald range,
Heidelberg's setting is surely a pretty one. However, while the city may have had cultural importance, with its university playing a big role in Lutheranism, strategically speaking, the place was of little to no significance to Allied forces. It generally lacked industrial noteworthiness and it wasn't much of a transport hub for Nazi forces. As such, the town and neighbouring villages were essentially untouched during the war. With its infrastructure largely in tact, it acted as a base of reconstruction for the region, its population growing by over 20% in a few short years after the war. What that means for tourists today is Heidelberg is one of the most unblemished Medieval towns in the country.

And, oh boy, do the tourists come! With around 3,000,000 day trippers
every year, Heidelberg itself could compete with the tourism numbers of entire countries. Of course, being on a short train trip from one of the largest transport hubs in the world, Frankfurt, couldn't hurt much. The narrow, cobble-stone streets quickly fill with tourist with their Starbucks or chocolate ice creams. Frankly, it can be a little overwhelming. With that said, once off the main streets and square, Heidelberg still has side alleys where you may be the only one around. While there may not be cathedrals or MacDonald's, the life on the side streets is more like life in Heidelberg. A place, stuck in time, where people go to work on their bicycles, trying to avoid the crowds.

Heidelberg will never make any arbitrary list of "1,000 place to see before you die". With that said, it might make a "easy top day trips from a boring city" list. Frankfurt is hardly a major tourist destination. If you do find yourself with a day or two to kill there, then a day-trip to Heidelberg is a no brainer. With a nice setting, charming side streets and a fairly cool castle, it makes for a nice day, even if you have to fight a million other day-trippers to see it.

Frankly Germany

2012-07-27T18:50:00.010+05:00

"The best laid plans of mice and men often go awry". I thought i had it figured out. For the first time in years, i had a job in a not so remote country, Ukraine. Cheap drinks, pretty girls and no stress were on order. But, as the quote says, things went awry. I was leaving Ukraine to another job off the end of the world again. But if things weren't all awry-ed enough, i somehow ended up in Germany for a few days. More specifically, Frankfurt.One would almost assume Frankfurt am Main was the centre of Europe is almost every way. With one of the most heavily used AutoBahn interchanges, one of the world's busiest international airports and one of the largest terminal train stations in Europe, it would seem all roads no longer lead to Rome, but to Frankfurt. If that wasn't enough, Frankfurt is the financial capital of Europe housing the European Central Bank. If that wasn't enough, Mercer's ranks Frankfurt as the 7th best city in the world to live (it's also ranked as the 10 most expensive). So, one would think that Frankfurt would have tonnes to offer up to tourists. Well, one should never assume, or you'll make a ASS or U and ME.

As Frankfurt's website proudly states, "Frankfurt is the smallest metropolis in the World" The city definitely has a very different feel from any other German city. While the city has its fair share of cathedrals and churches, it's skyline bares no resemblance to places like Munich or Hamburg. Here, skyscrapers are the name of the game with 2 of the 8 tallest buildings in Europe, including the 258.7 metre tall (300 m with spire) Commerzbank Tower. But i don't know. I don't come to Europe to see glass and concrete giants. Although multicultural (42% of Frankfurtites aren't German), the streets are flooded with ubiquitous bankers and Beamers. On the flip-side of the coin, the red-light district is enough to strike fear into any wide-eyed travelling family. Frankfurt is not the Germany in the tourist brochures. To me, the city barely fell European at all. But, all that said, Frankfurt is not without its charm.

It is a foregone conclusion that all tourists to Frankfurt will inevitably head to the city's Romer Square. The Romer is a medieval building which has been Frankfurt's Rathaus (city hall) for over 600 years. This is the type of building one comes to expect from Germany. The square is a meeting place for locals and tourists alike. A spot on a bench is prime real estate as cafes overflow into the public square. Nearby St. Paul's Church (seat of the first democratically elected Parliament in 1848) also makes for an interesting side note. But frankly, considering some of the far more impressive public square in Germany, let alone the world, not even Romer can save Frankfurt.

I'm sure once you get to know the ins & outs of the city, Frankfurt is a good place to live (if you can afford it). But for the average 2-day tourist, Frankfurt fails to impress. Due to its travel hub status, it seems like nearly anyone travelling through the region will end up here for a day or two. It's not the end of the world. But it would be really hard for me to recommend travellers go out of their way to visit the city.

Ooh-dessa

2012-07-19T15:00:00.013+05:00

It's funny the things you remember. From high school, i recall an introduction to film unit. We studied something called the Odessa Steps Sequence, from the Battleship Potempkin. At that time, the town of Odessa really meant nothing. But for visitors to the Eastern European country of Ukraine, Odessa is most definitely on the top of the "must visit" list.

At first glance, the port city of Odessa is nothing special. Typical grey, blocky Soviet era architecture fills the sprawled out urban environment. But slowly and surely, the charm of Odessa starts to show it's face. First thing of note are the pastel coloured trolley-trams which ply the often cobble-stoned streets. A scattering of orthodox churches, capped off with gleaming golden crosses, line the very green and leafy streets. But it's not until you reach the downtown "core" that Odessa really begins to show it's true colours. A myriad of public parks seemed to be placed strategically so that pedestrians can periodically take a load off, setting the tone for Odessa's laid-back feel.

Odessa lacks the big ticket attractions found in Kiev, but probably the first "site" of note will be Odessa's central cathedral. Although originally founded in the late 1800's, the one today is a rebuilt version after the Soviets destroyed the old one in the 1930's. Frankly, it's hard for me to get excited about yet another church. Especially one lacking in history and general impressiveness. But what i do like is the park which surrounds the cathedral. Somewhat of an artist's park, the encompassing area is full of painters vending their wares. A variety of kiosks and street carts sell a number of quick eats fuelling the hyperactive children whose parents hope burn off the sugar by running around. Heck, there are even pony rides and peddle cars for those who are looking for a little more excitement. Although not large in size, the park is full of character. Simply parking myself on one of the benches and watching Odessa happen around me was one of the highlights of the city. But clearly, there is much more on offer.

Deribasovskaya Street is wear Odessa comes alive. The pedestrianized street, in the heart of the centre, overflows with cafes and pubs. This is where locals and visitors come to meet and greet, enjoy a beverage or two, or simply strut their stuff in a constant runway show. Mixing in a spattering of Italian Baroque architecture, even more parks and pony rides or even the occasional art exhibit this is undoubtably the place to be and be seen. Groups of tourists are shepherded from building to building in a blinding flurry of photo ops. Surprising to some, the tourists are largely "locals", proving that Odessa has an intrinsic allure for everyone.

It impossible to talk about Odessa without mentioning the Black Sea. Serving as part economic lifeline and part entertainment centre, it is the seaside that first brought people here, and it is the seaside that keeps them coming. And leading down to the port are the steps i learned about so many years ago in that film class. While the scenes shot here in 1925 are heralded as a cinematic masterpiece, with the step sequence even copied by directors like Brian De Palma in the 1987 The Untouchables, the fact of the matter is, they're just a bunch of steps. While the port has some cool statues and the beaches have some very pretty girls, It all seemed like a lot of build up for nothing.

Odessa is my kind of town. A general laid-back feel with enough things to make it interesting. The people seemed friendlier than those in the east of the country, and certainly more so than those in the capital, Kiev. I can't really rave about the place as a global "must do before you die", but it does borderline as a destination, not just a place to visit if in the area.