Today, I’m celebrating all of my hard work and hitting my goal, yay me! This post is me going out of my comfort zone to share my 3-D body model. Here goes.

I’m right where I want to be physique wise for the holidays. I lost 2 more inches from my hip area which means my biggest problem is that I don’t have very many bottoms to choose from in my closet. I need to make a sewing plan.

Over the past two years, every time I would make a muslin or test a pattern my measurements would change. I’ve been starting over and starting over again because one-half inch makes a huge difference in fit. That is entirely the reason why I haven’t been blogging. I’ve been learning pattern drafting skills, working out and testing patterns.

Which means it is time to hold steady for a hot minute and start sewing a “real” wardrobe. I have been living in workout clothing for quite a while now.

These are my saved sizes in Lakala’s website to show my progress over the past two years. What this chart doesn’t show is thighs. I started with 47″ saddlebags and I’m down to 39″ in that spot.

These are screenshots from Lakala’s new program which generates a personal 3-D body model based on user measurement input.

How it works: I converted my measurements from inches to centimeters and plugged all the numbers into their free program, Order a dummy.

They quickly sent my personal 3-D model via email. I believe they call it a 3D mannequin or dummy.

It continually rotates 360 degrees on-screen, click here to see it.

The idea is that you can see how Lakala is able to generate sewing patterns from your measurements for a perfect fit. They really do a wonderful job. They have excellent drafting, good selection of styles to choose from and I’m always pleased with the fit of a Lekala pattern. Visit their webstite at https://www.lekala.co/

Too cool. I’m so happy with Lekala’s new feature. This is an exact copy of my figure at this point in time!

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Lower Waisted Pencil Skirt

Pattern Description: Self drafted, close-fitting, lower waisted, slightly pegged pencil skirt with facing, back slit and exposed metal zipper. 17” length.

Fabric Used: Sequins galore cotton/lycra sateen

Fabric Source: www.emmaonesock.com

Drafting Notes: I skipped my natural waist and drafted for my belly button level as the waist. The only drafting error was at the waist but that was due to wanting to snug up the fit in the fashion fabric which has 10% widthwise stretch. I also ended up with a bump on my outer thigh because after I brought the waist in ½” on each side I didn’t taper it all the way down to the lower hip correctly. Fixed it, no problem.

S/A ½”
3” Facing
Extended back seam to ¾” to give extra room for the zipper
Hem 1 ½”

Back slit 3” with 1 ½” s/a

Sewing Notes:
7” Exposed metal zipper
Hook and eye

Interfacing: Pro-woven Fusible Light Crisp from fashionsewingsupply.com

Likes/Dislikes: I wanted to make a skirt to sit just below my belly button to see how it compares to wearing a skirt with a full waistband at my natural waist. I ended up liking this better from the standpoint that my top didn’t feel like it needed to be tucked in and I was comfortable while sitting. I think everything looks proportional so I’m happy with this skirt experiment.

I thought I would line it but ended up just pinking the seam allowances and calling it good. I did use twill tape as stay tape in the facing seam to stabilize it and to keep the fabric from growing while wearing the skirt.

As far as the exposed zipper, I didn’t top stitch it but feel it pulls outward too much when wearing the skirt which detracts from the couture treatment. I’ll fix that and be sure to top stitch the next time I use this zipper application method.

Let’s talk about the fabric. Can you say to die for? It is a stretch poplin sateen so the sequins are printed right onto the fabric. I can’t imagine the stress of inserting an exposed zipper into actual sequin fabric but I’m sure someone has done it. This fabric has a luscious sheen to it, very classy both to the look and touch.

My friends, Sherril and Jennifer, helped me style this outfit while we were in Vegas on our July baby sewing friend birthday weekend getaway. The top I intended to wear had to be changed last minute because I spilled something all down my front. Photo shoot jitters? No, I was brushing my teeth and ruined my own outfit LOL! But that’s ok, not to mention typical for me. We had a good laugh and worked it out.

We found a loading dock type of enclosure in which to do our photo shoot and it made for a perfect light box. Love the fun murals!

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I love Textile Studio Patterns.

Their designs are classic, elegant and timeless.

Skirt Wardrobe 1103 -Pattern Review

Pattern Description: Now you can create those simple and pricey skirts you see in ready-to-wear. This pattern contains 3 pull-on skirts: An a-line, a four gore and a six gore.

Fabric Used: Triacetate/poly blend from Fabric Mart. It is a bit heavier than the fabric suggestions but worked perfectly for the formal look I was going for.

Suggested Fabrics: Each view has suggestions. I made View B: This 4-panel skirt drops from the hip with a slight flair. Designed for soft draping rayons and lightweight knits.

Pattern Size: XS – S – M – L – XL – XXL.
The pattern pieces fit together beautifully. The skirt is bit snug at the high hip but that is because of the heavy fabric, not the pattern.

Alterations: None.

Design Changes: I lengthened to floor length.

Sewing Notes: S/A 1/2″, rolled serge hem

Likes/Dislikes: Love the fabric, wish I had more. The skirt pattern couldn’t have been easier and ran true to size.

Tried and True (TNT), One-timer, or Nix This Pattern? TNT. I love this full length and will make some maxi skirts for casual wear.

I wish Textile Studio still carried fabrics. I have at least two boxes stuffed full of Marsha’s rayons, wools and knits. I’m only now becoming more and more willing to cut into them.

Skirt Wardrobe

This pattern is no longer available, unfortunately.

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I love this pattern, it makes a great fabric canvas.

I made the tunic view E, shortened it and left off the neck ring.

Butterick 5528

Pattern Description: Close-fitting, straight tunic E has cap sleeves, stitched hem and neck ring.

Fabric Used: Cotton/Lycra Jersey – Heathered Charcoal Gray

Suggested Fabrics: Moderate stretch knits only

Pattern Sizing: Lrg-Xlg-XXl

Alterations: None

Design Changes: Several. I left off the neck ring, widened the neckline, shortened the hem line and experimented a bit. I wanted to see if notching out a wedge effect would tighten the hem area around my hips. I pinned out the desired amount and thought twice about what I was about to do.

Starting from the bottom, I serged five inches then took a hard turn and angled off the edge, creating a hip band effect. Worked nicely!

Sewing Notes: S/A 5/8″, Hem 1 1/4″

Likes/Dislikes: Like the basic design, one pattern piece for both front and back. How much easier can it get?
Dislike: the neck ring and original tunic length, it was too long for my taste. Actually, it was a dress. It wasn’t close-fitting and I don’t think the sleeves are cap sleeves either.  Strange pattern description!

Tried and True (TNT), One-timer, or Pattern Graveyard: Definitely TNT. I have three versions of this top and can visualize many more.

It is fun to make this pattern in different fabrics to create totally different looks.

Butterick 5528

Pattern information:

• reviews
• pattern

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My first Lekala pattern and I just love the outcome.

This was my test garment, however, it fit perfect without any alterations and quickly became a go-to dress for me. I have worn this dress three times already.

Lekala 5860

Inspiration Dress, Adrianna Papell

Pattern Description: V-neck dress with neck darts, lined bodice, empire waist and ruched skirt.

Fabric Used: Ponte Knit, bodice lined with Ambiance.

Suggested Fabrics: Tight silk dress fabrics from natural or mixed fibers

Pattern Sizing: Custom ordered to my measurements.
The pattern pieces fit together beautifully. The sizing was perfect!

Alterations: None except I did sew the front V closed so the two panels would not fall open.

Design Changes: Removed the sleeves and changed the armscye on the fly. The next sleeveless version would need the armscye redrawn properly as hits a bit low on me in front and the back isn’t quite right.

Sewing Notes: S/A 3/8″, Hem 1 3/4″

Likes/Dislikes: Like the neckline pleating and the ruching of the skirt side panels. Love the high waistline and overall design. It is very comfortable to wear as the neckline is not too low after sewing the two panels shut. I wanted to make sure there was no gaping each time I bent over.

The only dislike would be that the pattern instructions were in Russian and translated poorly. I tried to translate the pattern from Russian to English but had a hard time with the translators. As I had no idea what the instructions would have me do, I had to think about each logical step and forge ahead. I pulled a similar Vogue pattern and figured everything out.

I had to twist my brain around this one but I enjoyed the challenge.

Tried and True (TNT), One-timer, or Pattern Graveyard: Definitely TNT. I can see many more versions of this dress. I would like another one in ponte with sleeves. I saw a very similar dress with a ruffle around the neckline in a woven. Linen would be a good choice of fabric to try.

I am impressed with Lekala! I have enthusiastically ordered a few more and hope to enjoy more success.

Lekala 5860

The pattern designer’s website, pattern information:

• Pics
• Technical Details
• Design Pic
• Pattern Order Form

The post My First Lekala appeared first on Journey to Couture.

I’ve been working on my entry for the RTW & Designer Knock-off Contest 2009 hosted by PR.

I have been working through a few patterns to pull together the features I need to create my patio dress.

Here are the patterns I’ve been working with:

Simplicity 3918

I made view C but left off the lace and kept the shoulder ties. I wanted to see how the point at the front bodice would come together and I wanted to see how the shoulders were constructed. I’m definitely incorporating the circled portion of the front bodice into my patio dress. Simplicity 3918 is unfortunately OOP.

Simplicity 3503

I am presently working on view E to get that upper front bodice worked out with an FBA. I also plan to remove some fullness from the front skirt where it attaches to the bodice but want to make it once as drafted. I am using a knit but don’t want to gather out any of the focal design on my final dress. Simplicity 3503 is crazy popular on PR! I am sure it will become a top pattern this year.

BWOF 04/2005 #125 and #126

I have this bodice traced and altered and I L*O*V*E this style. The bodice is shared by these two dresses so I thought to give you a good look by including both dresses here. I am thinking of making #125 for the holidays but I kinda like it without the lace overlay as they did in #126. I wouldn’t care for a full length tulle skirt.

For now, I have a bodice muslin all worked out and intend to use the back for my patio dress.

It is nice having some new garments in my wardrobe! I’ll review them individually as I complete them and work through this entire process.

The hardest part of pulling out old patterns is running across styles I wanted to make back then but didn’t tackle. I’m so glad I saved my old BWOF when I moved!!
There are several pieces in the BWOF that I went ahead and traced for later… like this cute outfit, the twist top and cute skirt #115. Someday!

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I have a piece of cotton knit in my stash that is just waiting for the right project. It will be perfect for my interpretation of this beautiful Patio dress.
Here are closeups to show the pick stitching and amazing cutouts:

I plan on self-drafting the bodice. I will use an BWOF pattern from the 2005 wedding dress spread for the back. I’m thinking of another BWOF maxi dress pattern for the skirt but I need to check my pattern stash this afternoon to pull together my game plan.

This should be a fun project!

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I am intrigued by the fabric as well. It sure is interesting how the designer placed elements for effect. You have to look hard to see the cranes. In a way, the dress looks almost ombred.

The post Inspiration dress appeared first on Journey to Couture.

Here is my fun discovery with wovens. Let’s see if I can explain clearly. First, I slashed horizontally 1/4” above the waist mark but not all the way through the SA on the side seam, then overlapped the bottom over the top 1” to make a sway back adjustment. Then I corrected the CB seam by cutting straight down, effectively removing a wedge with the widest part 1” wide at the CB at the hem. Need that 1” back on the side seam, but not yet.

Next, I made 3/8” narrow shoulder adjustment to the back, but I didn’t cut a box and move the entire armscye over this time. Instead, I slashed vertically from top to bottom, then horizontally from the slash through the armscye about 2.5” from the side seam/bottom of armscye. I moved the shoulder in 3/8”. The bottom right piece pivots so the bottom hem gains the missing 1” and the armscye moves up 3/8”… effectively adding back there and completing the NSA.

I can’t believe this makes total sense to me and it looks good in pattern stage, however, I’m sure the sway back part is wrong and needs more thought. I can’t see how this made any difference except in center back length, ultimately, but maybe that is what it takes to correct the puddling problem at the lower back.

I need to cut a muslin next!

The post Back Fitting Experiment appeared first on Journey to Couture.

In all, it was a well drafted pattern with the exception of the arm and leg length. I have one of the tall kids in class but I still had to remove 4” from the sleeves and 3” from the legs. I wasn’t planning to put elastic at wrists and ankles so I shorted the pattern pieces with that in mind after quickly pin fitting him.

The instructions were crazy. If I had constructed the costume in the order given it would have taken me all month. It did take the better part of a few days as it was.

I grouped like tasks together like constructing all the spiney parts at once instead of at the point where it would be attached to a body part.

The instructions had the tail attached to the back bodice immediately but that sounded like a lot of wrangling at the machine to get around that tail. I constructed the body as much as possible before attaching the tail.

I knew the tail would be heavy so I wanted to keep it from pulling the back down and choking my poor little guy. I ran a length of 1/4” elastic from the inside tip of the tail and pulled it taut as I attached the tail to the back bodice. Then I measured his chest and cut 3/4” elastic to fit around his torso, bringing up the 1/4” elastic and attaching it. Once the contraption was pulled snug up under his armpits, voila! No more major tail problem.

I also knew the tail would get ruined from walking outside and I was right! I need to replace a large portion of the tail.

Warding off scary trick-or-treating brother to protect damsel with camera.


Thank heavens I will never need to sew another one of these, however, I do recommend it to others. It really turns out a cute costume! So many trick-or-treaters called out to DS to say how cool his costume looked. He even got double candy from a few houses because of the green and yellow Oregon Duck colors. Yep, that was the idea!

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