Tokyo was still the same city I love. CoCo Ichi remains as my favourite curry, Misudo donuts are delicious as ever and Doutor’s Italian sandwiches are still my go-to choice. It was good to be back. And yeah, the trains were as annoyingly crowded as ever.

On my previous visit, I had come to the realisation that old age has quietly transformed me into a museums person. This time, I intended to embrace it fully. Unfortunately destiny stepped in as usual. That one library museum I missed last time due to being closed? Closed again, this time until late January. An aviation museum I was particularly excited about? Closed until March 2027! A scenic observation spot I had found for a perfect Tokyo skyline photo? Closed until the end of 2027!!! At that point, Japan wasn’t just saying no to me; it was making me schedule calendar reminders. The trip even started with a flight that was delayed by seven hours!

Fortunately, we live in the future, and our benevolent AI overlords came to the rescue. With a little help from generative AI, I found new destinations to explore: a bonsai museum, a railway museum in Saitama, and other spots previously unknown to me. Problem solved. Enthusiasm restored.

While I was in Japan, headlines back home were dominated by a racism scandal that started with mocking Asians by members of the True Finns Party. Usually, outside the Baltic Sea region, people know absolutely nothing about Finland. Japan, however, is an exception. Many people do know. For the first time in my life, I felt genuine shame about being Finnish. The cruelty, small-mindedness, and sheer stupidity of my fellow countrymen made me furious. The attack, in all its senselessness, was personal. On the way home, at Finnair check-in, I stood behind a group of cheerful young women with their Moomin decorations, heading to Lapland to see the Northern Lights. I couldn’t help but wonder why scaring off visitors like them would ever benefit my homeland. It is said that "against stupidity the gods themselves battle in vain."

Japan is experiencing an influx of tourists and immigrants, and with it, also a noticeable rise in nationalistic sentiment. Annual visitor numbers are now almost ten times what they were when I moved there. Popular destinations like Kyoto are filled well past capacity. During the year-end holidays, NHK news showed tourists waiting in line for hours just to see the snow monkeys of Jigokudani.

The trick, however, is simple: step a little off the postcard locations and the crowds evaporate.

We were supposed to visit Tsushima island in 2023, but heavy snowfall forced a last-minute change of plans. This time we tried again – and succeeded! Tsushima is one of those places even many Japanese have never visited, historically among the poorest corners of the country. One might therefore assume this would place it safely beyond the reach of international tourism. Not quite!

Tsushima is less than a two-hour ferry ride from Busan, South Korea’s second-largest city. On a clear day, you can even see the skyscrapers on the horizon. While the island certainly doesn’t suffer from overtourism, it was still interesting how many visitors there were. Most signs are bilingual, in both Japanese and Korean. I loved the relaxed atmosphere of the archipelago, and it reinforced my own official Japan travel advice: the best parts are outside the big cities, somewhere in the middle of nowhere. For example, we had a small incident with our rental car, and while waiting for help, a local gentleman invited us onto his property to show us his traditionally built stone-roofed house. How nice was that?

Recommending Japan remains effortless. With the yen as weak as it is, I occasionally felt like I was getting away with something. Five euros for a genuinely excellent lunch. In Finland, that won’t even buy you a Hesburger, let alone dignity. I hope that I get to go soon again, but the next time, I’ll be wearing my khaki project manager pants. I’ll identify the museums in advance, verify the opening hours from multiple reliable sources, and plan the schedule for maximum efficiency and minimum cost using a professional project management tool. So macht man das!

I usually don’t publish videos, but the Shinjuku cat deserves an exception.

My in-laws came to visit Finland – possibly, but hopefully not, for the last time. Finland in autumn isn’t exactly known for its irresistible charm; it’s dark, moist, and has the mildly sweet scent of decomposing leaves. So, hopping on a week long excursion to Portugal was an easy choice.

Portugal had been on my bucket list for a while, and October turned out to be the perfect time to go. Not too many tourists and the weather was warm enough for shorts. Like a Finnish July with better food and less sleet. Delicious food wasn’t a surprise, but the pastries… caramba! I knew they’d be good, but I wasn’t prepared for this level of sugar-driven obsession. Every breakfast was a failed attempt to even a modest level of self control. I decided to enjoy life for a week and to have a serious discussion with my pancreas later.

My partner, a master travel planner, handled the logistics as always. I mostly just followed commands, hauled the bags, and took tons of photos. We took a guided tour to picturesque Sintra, and to my surprise, the guide turned out to be a former hockey player and an NHL fan. Discussing ice hockey in Portugal is as likely as finding a sauna in the Sahara, but I’m happy to take all the chances I get.

We had a driver to take us from Lisbon to Porto, sightseeing along the way. I quickly realized that Portuguese drivers are operating on another level of spatial awareness. A camel might not make it through the eye of a needle, but a Portuguese driver could thread a car through it! I’m genuinely glad we didn’t rent one; I would have had an anxiety attack before even leaving the garage.

The train ride back was… an experience. It was packed to the brim, sweltering at 50°C, and half an hour late. The only relief came from a vent blowing faintly lukewarm air, which I took turns using to cool my armpits, with little success.

Portugal itself, though, was fantastic. I could easily retire there. The place just oozes history: Moorish castles perched on high hills, old coastal forts that once guarded the edges of the known world, and more churches than cafés! What’s fascinating is how the same history can look so different depending on who’s telling it. Ask a Portuguese person, and it’s a tale of discovery, adventure, and glorious empire. Ask a Brazilian, and it’s... somewhat less glorious.

The service culture felt oddly familiar: half the time people were nice and friendly, and the other half was pure “I just work here.” As a Finn, that made me feel right at home. Since I don’t quite look like the rest of the family, I got singled out a few times. The most memorable moment was in a supermarket when a security guard decided I looked suspicious just because I was idling next to my in-laws as they decided souvenirs. First time for everything!

Anyway, Portugal was great. Would recommend – five stars. Especially if you like sunshine, pastries, and mild chaos.

This summer, my wife’s friend kindly offered us to stay at their beautifully furnished apartment in the Alps. There are plenty of really hard choices in life, and going to Switzerland was definitely not one of them. Lucky us! We got to spend four nights in the the canton of Valais, then a day in Bern and the last one in Zürich

I’ve been exercising lately and figured I was in decent shape. Better than in ages, really. After all, we even started cycling this summer. Disappointingly, it turns out hiking muscles are different. Especially downhill. All that stomping on the Finnish flatlands hadn’t prepared me at all. My legs were wrecked already after the first hike, and after that, even the gentlest descent hurt. Recovery was… much slower than I’d like to admit. Getting older is not for the weak.

Still, it felt so good to be back. The mountains, the air, the faint sound of cowbells in the distance. People actually greet you on the trails. I had forgotten how nice that is.

Visiting Switzerland from the battered eurozone is more expensive than ever, so we did our best to keep costs down. Despite that, we managed a few culinary splurges, and even treated us on a spa visit (which we enjoyed, despite not really being spa people). As always, as good as the scenery and food were, the best part of the trip was seeing old friends again. Merci vielmal!

Costa del Sol of Spain is one of those places where everyone else seems to have already been, some multiple times, and a few have even moved there. Everyone except me, of course. Part of the reason is that traditional package holidays don’t really work for me and especially my partner who avoids the sun and beaches like a vampire. Fortunately, we finally took the plunge, and now I totally get why around 30,000 Finns call Coast of the Sun their home. Beautiful rugged landscapes, endless sunshine, warm breezes, delicious food and drinks, all at pretty tolerable prices. Southern Spain also felt less chaotic than the likes of southern Italy or Greece. And in Fuengirola – or "Fuge," as the “local” Finns apparently call it – near Málaga, you can find practically every basic service in Finnish. Very convenient in case you’ve been too busy sipping sangria to be actually bothered with the local language.

We scheduled our trip for the off-season in Europe, hoping to dodge the worst of the holiday hordes. My expectations weren’t exactly sky-high; from the moment we boarded the Finnair flight, it felt like we’d wandered into a local bingo club. Surrounded by a lively crowd of senior citizens, I felt like part of the youth despite my midlife crisis. In the end, the experience wasn’t as touristy as I imagined and we managed to get treats of some semi-authentic local culture as well. With a glammed-up flamenco lady pounding her high heels just two meters from me, the intensity of the performance made me feel like a deer in headlights. On the flipside, I felt more comfortable in a hammam, an Arabic bath, which we took on the last day before flying home. A brilliant brainwave of travel planning by my wife.

Our trip took us not only to Málaga, but also Granada, Ronda, and even squeezed in day trips to hike the Caminito del Rey and visit British-controlled Gibraltar. Each place was interesting and charming in its own way. We used public transportation to get around. On a train to Granada, my wife started chatting about how the gentleman sitting in front of us looked oddly familiar, at least from the side. I tried to calm her down by analytically referencing probabilities: the chance of her running into someone she knows on a regular Spanish train is, well, to put it politely, nonexistent. Since my wife never believes my theories, she jumped up to take a closer look, and sure enough, it was her former colleague who had moved to Spain a few years ago! Unbelieveable! It was just a coincidence that he happened to be in the same train, in the same car, seated just in front of us. Nuts! Thanks to this, we got a local guide for the evening and some great tips about Granada. This isn’t even the first time something like this has happened to us. Like the time we bumped into my wife’s old friend on a hiking trail in Switzerland and ended up spending the rest of the trip together. In a deterministic, materialistic universe, this is explained by something known as observational selection bias. For tinfoil-hat wearing kooks like me, such impossible synchronicities are proof of something far more interesting. A simulation? Metaphysical idealism? Or maybe even panpsychism? The truth is out there! 👽

All in all, the trip was yet another great success (except for the annual COVID we brought home as a souvenir). I was turned from a sceptic to curious: perhaps spending retirement days in Spain really isn’t that bad of an idea. I’ve been talking about buying a hut from Okinawa, but then again, there’s no typhoons in Spain. Please message me if you know anyone with a nice affordable holiday property available, muchas gracias! 😉

A new year, a new trip to Japan! It’s always just as exhilarating to be back. The food alone is good enough a reason to return; I usually prepare a “must eat” list in advance, leaving enough empty slots for improvised eating and family events. The trips would be a bliss if only the flights were not so long, the two extra hours really hurt. The older I grow, the more I dread the lengthy journey. I’ve never been able to sleep in economy class. Usually after 8 hours of being packed like a sardine, my back muscles form an alliance and start an outright mutiny against me.

Aging has also some unexpected perks; it's not just about waning health and increased backaches. It turns out, I've evolved into a museums enthusiast. Previously, I could spend endless hours wandering the streets and stores of Akihabara, but now, it just bores me. Instead, I noticed that the museums and historic sites have become the most captivating part of my trips. I also discovered that for a museums enthusiast, visiting Japan at the end of the year is the worst timing—everything seems to be closed!

My father-in-law had planned and booked us a family trip to Tsushima and Iki islands. I did my share by studying the history and geography of the islands by playing Ghost of Tsushima on PS5. I was so pumped I might’ve accidentally taken flight. Unfortunately, the divine winds intervened, just like with the Mongolian fleet 750 years earlier. We had to scrap our plans due to heavy winds and snowfall. I felt… deflated. Fortunately we were able to pivot quickly, and headed towards Lake Biwa region instead. I got to explore the Sekigahara battlefield and Hikone castle, both truly fascinating visits. My wife and I also spent an extra night in Kyoto because I insisted on indulging in more historic touristy activities.

Now, I have an unpopular opinion that I can't keep to myself any longer. Kyoto is stunning; it can be compared to the likes of Rome, Athens, or Cairo. Spared in WW2 by almost like a divine intervention. Then, why, oh why, for the love of everything beautiful, is Kyoto's skyline marred by an atrocity that belongs in the Las Vegas Strip?! In a city with Zen gardens where the placement of every single stone is thoughtfully considered? Why? I’m talking about the Kyoto Tower. ひどい! Please take it down! And while you’re at it, scrap that impractical maze called Kyoto central railway station too! It's an eyesore!

I might not be on Kyoto's welcome list for a while. 😁

While we were enjoying our January 1st in Tokyo, Noto peninsula was hit by a strong earthquake. It’s been a while since my phone’s quake alarm has gone off the last time. Earthquakes are one thing I will never get used to. A tragic event for those who lost their lives or homes. A good reminder why I shouldn’t take our annual trips for granted, or complain too much about flying in coach.

That’s it, thanks!

Bonjour France! After a bout of serious procrastination, the lucky victor of our annual "where should we go for holidays?" lottery turned out to be the promised land of stinky cheese. We thought we were clever by dodging the peak European holiday season, but alas, no one had told us about the Rugby World Cup. It turns out we weren't the only visitors to this fine country after all. Tant pis. I guess you can't stroll into France and expect to have it all to yourself. Anyway, go Brave Blossoms (they’re the national rugby team of Japan)!

To be perfectly honest, I wasn’t overly thrilled before the trip: I don't speak a word of French and I hadn’t driven in France much, so my primary concern was just how we'd manage. Turns out that we managed pretty well: I was even able to buy pain au chocolat in French when things got really desperate! The plan was to embark on a road trip in Normandy and, after that, rendezvous with friends from my wife's Zürich days in Paris. Especially Paris, the City of Light, strikes me as dirty and chaotic. They say it's the world's most romantic city, but to my nose, it's more eau de pee and cigarettes, and there are too many rats and humans living on the streets.

Paris may not be a well-oiled machine, but it is unquestionably a work of art — a colossal gallery of life and culture! The art museums, especially the Louvre, are nothing short of extraordinary. I'd never experienced such a highbrow art overdose (and very, very sore feet) as during our extended weekend in Paris. Enjoying the company of our old friends was the highlight of the trip.

I might not be Paris's biggest fan, but Normandy, with its postcard-worthy landscapes, is a whole different story. I was excited about visiting the World War II battlegrounds, and the trip to the monastery island of Mont Saint-Michel turned out to be even more breathtaking than I had imagined. Honfleur, a quaint fishing village along the English Channel, felt like something straight out of a movie. The road trip was a relaxing breeze. French roads are in good condition, and people drive with a sense of civility (except in Paris, which is a hell hole). We managed to avoid major traffic snarls and simply relished the drive, the views, and our quirky weird little rental car. Nope, we didn’t get a French car, we got something better: a Chinese Volvo knock-off SUV called “Lynk & Co”. The name alone is a mystery. Who is this Lynk character, and who are the company they're keeping? I’ve never driven such an oddball before. The car has technically all the latest features, yet everything feels so haphazardly designed. Lynk and their company didn’t try to actively murder us (although their parent company does sponsor murder), thanks for that, but they did try to drive me nuts and get me ticketed in the process. No cigar, Lynk, I’m not your Co.

Service in Normandy was top-notch everywhere we stayed. People are friendly, helpful and things just worked. After Paris, it felt like visiting a foreign country. If the worst thing about France is the coffee, then the best thing is undoubtedly the food. For instance, we dined in a pescatarian restaurant called L'Hippocampe, and I absolutely adored it. That's saying something, considering what an unapologetic carnivore I am. I’d also like to give a shout-out to the Vietnamese restaurants we frequented: thanks to their French connection, the Vietnamese places seemed to be particularly good.

French pastries deserve a honorary award. We grabbed our breakfasts from bakeries like the locals, and that seemed like an efficient and mouthwatering albeit unhealthy way to kick-start the day. It was also rather fascinating to observe the French love affair with baguettes. I now have a whole sub-category of travel photos labeled “French people casually carrying baguettes in every day life situations”. I might need to consider adopting this French best practice.

All in all, the trip was a triumph. The pinnacle was spending a couple of days with friends and immersing ourselves in high culture. The low point was the COVID we both got upon returning home. It was our first rodeo, and an experience I don’t wish to repeat anytime soon.

Hope you enjoy the photos. I tweaked the order a little bit so that I could end with my favourite picture.

Last time we did the road trip with my parents, and this time we were accompanied by my in-laws. Our journey took us to cozy Pärnu, bustling Riga, academic Tartu and good old familiar Tallinn. The last time we were greeted by sleet and gloom, this time we got lucky with summer-like weather even though it was early in the season. It was sunshine (almost) all the way. We even managed to avoid doing extreme sports (despite my partner’s wishes), so fortunately this time no one suffered a concussion and I didn't need to run around trying to find a doctor with smelling salts.

It was an interesting moment in history to visit the Baltics, given Russia's war of conquest in Ukraine and not so thinly veiled intentions to invade the Baltic countries next. Wherever there was an Estonian or Latvian flag, there was a Ukrainian flag next to it. While most of the world has turned a blind eye (simultaneously funding the Russian war machine), Latvia and Estonia are supporting Ukraina’s struggle more per capita than anyone else. Due to the tense situation, NATO is visibly present in the Baltic region. For instance, we met an Italian armoured company while on the highway, and there were Polish officers stationed in the same hotel in Tartu. I don't get easily spooked by someone being bigger than me, but the Polish brass caused a serious case of size-based intimidation when sharing an elevator ride with them: these guys are all two meters tall and look like professional wrestlers. 😳

Ice Hockey World Championships 2023 were hosted again in Riga, Latvia and Tampere, Finland since the original host Russia wasn't an option. There were a lot of international hockey fans in Riga. Latvians themselves are probably just as passionate about the sport as we Finns are, so it was fun to enjoy the atmosphere even if I didn't get to go to any of the games. Unfortunately our hotel room neighbours were of the kind who like to celebrate a win until 8am. Fortunately, however, my wife complained to the hotel reception. As a result we got a free upgrade to the top floor and I got some nice sunset photos. Thank you hotel (and my wife)! 😄

That’s it again, thanks!

This time I’m happy to report that a lot had actually changed in Japan since the last visit. Many of the changes can even be considered improvements! Japan is finally transitioning to a cashless society (with a cacophony of innovatively named payment services like R-Pay, Line-Pay, and of course Pay-Pay). Self-service is now the norm when ordering food in restaurants or paying purchases in a konbini. For a Finn the opportunity to completely avoid human contact is always a major enhancement. Mother Nature might be happy that the excessive use of plastics is finally coming to an end, yet to me the biggest delight was that the impending robot revolution seems to be finally coming true. This is the Tokyo I envisioned I was moving in to as a young man! For example, when eating out here in Finland, the food is still served by meagre meatbags, while in Japan your delights arrive on wheels served by something that calls themselves “Beru-chan” (ベルちゃん). 🤯 Our beloved robot overlords, please save the humankind! 🤖

COVID-19 isn’t front page news in Finland at the moment, but in Japan it is still a major topic in the evening news. Many facilities require a temperature check when entering and literally everyone is still wearing a mask even though it’s not necessarily required. The only exception are tourists, who for some reason cannot be bothered with a mask. As a fellow tourist that upset me quite a lot: when in Rome, is it really that hard to behave? Fortunately there was much, much less tourists than before. If you want to beat the crowds, the best time to travel is right now! But please be kind and wear a mask. 😷

Some things are same as always. CoCo ICHI still serves delicious katsu curry, and Kua Aina’s burgers remain the best. Morning trains are as packed as ever and no matter how full the train is, no one dares to sit next to me. Babies still stare at me with fear and fascination like I was a tengu (maybe I am?). We met a lot of family and friends and it was really good to see that everyone was still doing well. The highlight of the trip was a family visit to Hiroshima where we spent a couple of nights. My wife’s uncle invited us for a road trip to Hōfu which was really nice – a part of the country I hadn’t visited yet. We also got to experience a proper blizzard, a rare experience in Hiroshima region. All in all the whole visit was really relaxing and I hope it won’t take another three years and a global pandemic until the next time. じゃあまたね

That’s it again. Thanks!

Two and a half years! That's a long time to hide under a rock. Although I traveled a lot in my previous life, I hadn't been anywhere since the COVID-19 crisis started. As a high risk person I've been particularly overcautious about getting exposed to crowds. One consequence of self-isolation was that we hadn't seen my wife's family at all during the whole pandemic. When I heard that my in-laws would be visiting my wife's brother and his family in New Jersey, USA, I finally mustered some courage. After all, the infection rates have been down for a while. It was a perfect opportunity to crash the party and see the whole family together - first time since 2015. Plus, my wife had given a long-forgotten promise to show me the neighbourhoods where she grew up. I'm glad we got to go, because it was such a fun trip!

It was my first visit to New York - The City That Never Sleeps! An ideal place for someone struggling with insomnia. I've been to many capitals, but never before to the "Capital of the World". New York City with all its skyscrapers has similar wow!-factor as Tokyo or Hong Kong, but for me the most striking aspect was the huge contrast of human life. People truly come in all sizes, colours, genders and beliefs. When everyone is unique, even a country potato like me blends right in.

In USA, there are those who have a lot - and those who don’t have any Earthly possessions at all. The disparity is shocking. Meanwhile here in Finland everyone’s taxed to somewhat equal poverty, and apparently that makes us so very happy. To each his own, I suppose. It was enthralling to just watch the people. Thanks to Pride-month there was even some extra colour on the streets. I noticed one unifying theme from the melting pot, though: no one understood my English! Porque diablos! I got so frustrated that at one point I made my wife do all the talking. NYC is worse than Liverpool!

We stayed a couple of nights in Manhattan and most of the time in New Jersey: a huge thanks to my brother-in-law and especially his wife for their hospitality, and to our niece for all the origami and Super Smash Bros. lessons! In addition to living “goro goro life” in the “Garden State”, we also did a little family road trip to Washington DC where we spent two nights. For the duration of our stay I tried to embrace the American way to the best of my abilities. I ate too much junk food, changed lanes without using the turn signal and dragged my wife to see the new Top Gun movie in a local theater - which was totally an awesome experience! Great movie, reclining seats with a possibility of ordering burgers to the show, and it cost only five bucks!

As a closing remark, here are some observations:

• New York smells like marijuana! Everyone and their mother is a stoner! Even on work breaks! Whoa, dude!

• Customer service in New Jersey is almost hostile. It reminded me of Russia. We managed to buy a cup of coffee from Dunkin’ Donuts so that the customer service person didn’t utter a single word during the transaction. That would be considered an accomplishment even in a Finnish cafe.

• However when New Jerseyites do speak, they really sound like in the Sopranos. So cool! 😎

• Washington DC felt surprisingly relaxed given that it is the capital. I was pointing my zoom lens at that white building in the city center, and only at home did I realize that someone with a rather large sniper rifle had been looking back. Oops. 😳

• It was so fascinating to hear real Southern American accents spoken live! I’ve only heard it in tv before. There was a gaggle of fancy ladies in the same hotel in Washington. They sounded just like in the Gone with the Wind. Bless your heart dear.

Anyway, here are some photos, y’all.

It's kind of funny that after such a successful trip my topmost feeling is just relief.

Even though I hate flying in general and airports in particular, and air travel is currently perhaps more unpleasant than ever before, we didn't experience any major difficulties during our trip. I was certain that I'd catch the bug despite all the vaccines and face masks, yet we managed to stay healthy the whole time. Having a near-death experience and arguing with the insurance company about a hospital bill the size of an average mortgage would've been a nightmare ending for the summer. Despite my fears everything went smoothly and we had so much fun experiencing the American Dream. Which, by the way, is a gigantic shopping mall in New Jersey.

That’s it again. Thanks!

The spring is almost here! At least it should be, according to the calender. It’s April and it snowed today again. Oh dear. It’s not just the spring; everything else seems to take an eternity this year as well. A post-Brexit delivery I ordered took five weeks to arrive from UK thanks to all the added bureaucracy. Our new couch was delayed by additional two months. I’m currently holding my breath waiting to see which one I get first: the COVID-19 vaccine or a Playstation 5 I ordered half a year ago. It’s not looking pretty for the Sony Corporation since my first jab is already scheduled. Losing against the stagnant EU and Big Pharma is quite an embarrassing underachievement for a tech giant.

With all the waiting, it’s going to be yet another long year. Which is great, because it is slowing down my aging.

Happy anniversary! It’s over a year since I started working from home. Crazy times. As a “person with a predisposing condition for severe COVID-19”, I am fortunate that I can work remotely from my own lair and minimize all unnecessary contacts. Instead of early mornings and endless travel, I get to slouch on my own comfy chair, wear fat pants and munch snacks in meetings. Life could be worse! Like it probably is for those people whose work actually matters – i.e. health care, public safety, transportation, logistics etc.

It’s easy to sum up a whole year with two words. Nothing happened. The honeymoon period of remote work ended fast, and days have blurred together ever since. It’s like living the Groundhog Day again and again. The only variation are the lunch menu and the direction of our day walks. One noteworthy thing did occur, though: we finally bought a house. Spending all the time at home listening to the noisy upstairs neighbours drove me ̶a̶l̶m̶o̶s̶t̶ completely mental. In the end they got evicted (after trashing their place) and we ended up buying a place of our own. There’s only two ways I’ll ever move back to an apartment building: either I go deaf or dead. Now my only upstairs neighbours are magpies and squirrels: oh the bliss!

Although I decided to share the accumulated photos in two batches, I haven’t taken this few pictures in a decade. All the sitting at home has somewhat smothered my passion for photography, but also rekindled my love for first-person shooters. Perhaps I should start a blog about schooling the (mostly Russian) youth in the ancient art of Counter-Strike instead. Ence (and others), I’m still available! 😉

I haven’t seen the autumn colours of Lapland (known as ruska in Finnish) since I was a little a child and I’ve never driven through the whole country myself: two itches I wanted to scratch. Since travelling abroad was heavily discouraged (because of COVID-19), my wife and I decided to postpone our summer vacation until early September and single-handedly rescue the domestic tourism industry with our meagre contribution by venturing through the whole nation.

Just as we were planning on the exact dates, the Norwegian border got closed for tourism due to increasing number of infections on their side: jævla! If I can’t see the Arctic Ocean, then I don’t want to go at all! Besides, ruska appeared to be late this year and the weather forecast looked gloomy. After a short pow-wow we came up with an alternative plan, ready for immediate implementation: eastern Finland! The next morning at 6:30am we were already on the road to north, heading towards Koillismaa instead. The region we visited is close to the Russian border and near enough to Lapland to do some serious reindeer spotting. The master plan was follow the border, and visit as many national parks as we could on the way.

The trip itself was a success, even if we had to skip many interesting places along the way. We did tons of hiking: nothing is more energizing than long walks in autumn forests! My wife also insisted on trying white water rafting, an idea I vehemently resisted. Conveniently the only rafting option still available was the most challenging one: I was genuinely concerned I’d have to snorkel her from the bottom of a river after a big bump. As usual, I was worrying for nothing. Who would’ve known rafting can be so much fun?! Now I need to do it again!

Tourism is absolutely critical for the economy of the northern part of the country and I am worried what kind of havoc the next winter will wreak. Especially the smaller businesses will be in trouble. I hope we helped at least a little bit. Many foreign visitors who visit Finland are those who have already seen everything else on this planet, so they are usually quite well off. One British lawyer or dentist brings more money than 10+ stingy Finns, especially if these particular Finns are of the type who pack their own Mettwurst sandwiches, happily drink just tap water, and stay in the cheapest hostel run by some old lady who accepts cash only большое спасибо! Sorry, but we enjoy the economy class. 😳

At the time of writing this blog entry, the whole north is covered in incredible autumn colours and the Norwegian border is open again despite even higher COVID-numbers (Thanks ❤️❤️❤️ Sanna 🤬). Oh well. You win some, you lose some… 😭

New year, new blog posting! Version 2.0, to be exact. I had to scrap the first draft after realising it was an exact copy from previous years. My wife and I recently completed our annual trip to Japan, and I apparently repeat the same things on every visit. This time we had planned our travels around the New Year's festivities. The only difference was that on this occasion Finnair granted us a free upgrade to the business class. Yay, my own flying cocoon with an endless supply of wine! Kyllä kiitos!

Travelling to Japan feels like going back home – it really does. I take tons of photos, browse through the electronics stores of Akihabara, eat katsukarē in Coco-Ichi, replenish my garments at Uniqlo and do a lot of day walks wandering around Tokyo and its surroundings, usually visiting the same favourite locations. It just feels good to be back. The only unwelcome exception to the ordinary was that my regular Indian restaurant in Meguro had closed down. I was shocked and felt a twinge of guilt: their business clearly depended on my continued support. Hot damn.

To spice things up, we flew for a couple of days to Taiwan, also known as Formosa or formally the Republic of China. It was my first visit there, so I didn’t know much about it except for the semiconductor industry. “Beautiful Island” turned out to be quite a fascinating place! The busy streets, vibrant lights and strange odours caused a sensory overload for someone who is used to the dark solitude of the Nordic winter. Taiwan is a mishmash of Chinese culture influenced heavily by Japanese, Korean and global elements. Taipei might look a bit ragged compared to Tokyo, but things work almost in a similar orderly manner as in Japan. Some rules in Taipei were even stricter than those in Tokyo: I took a sip of water in the subway and I was lucky I didn’t get ticketed! If I had a chance, I would definitely like to visit Taiwan again. The temperature was very warm even in the middle of the winter (although my wife complained “you’re the only one here walking around in a t-shirt”) and the food (for those parts that I dared to experiment) was surprisingly tasty.

Anyway, here’s again an overload of travel photos:

Taipei, Taiwan

Tokyo, Japan

Except that Britain didn’t leave. Again. Déjà vu. Poor Boris had to ask for yet another postponement. Now he wishes he was dead in a ditch.

There was one naïve fool who actually believed that Brexit would be real this time: me! I had to participate two trainings held in England, so the trips were scheduled well before the Brexit deadline to ensure smooth travels for alien scum like me. My first visit was to Manchester area in the beginning of October, and Surrey region to the south of London a couple of weeks later.

I had never visited Northern England before so I combined the first trip with a little bit of solo travel and sightseeing. My destination of choice was the picturesque Lake District, a relatively short drive from Manchester. The Lake District, also known as the Lakes or Lakeland, is a mountainous region in North West England and it is arguably the prettiest corner of the country. The area is ideal for relaxing in the atmosphere of the countryside and doing outdoors activities like hiking. The only downside is that it tends to rain a bit on the British Isles, and on the West coast in particular. I got only one semi-decent day for wandering: slogging knee-deep in the mud is just not for me. On a positive note, I had more time for exploring the local cuisine and ale in the pub. You know you’ve done something right when you gain a kilo or two in a weekend you dedicated for exercising.

My second visit to UK was more work-heavy and I didn’t have time for sightseeing, except for a little excursion to London. All the local colleagues were well versed in the twists and turns of the Brexit saga so it was interesting to listen to their musings, and everyone seemed to be taking it all with a sufficient amount of British humour. "Why does Britain like tea so much?” -”Because tea leaves."

Anyway, without further ado, here’s some snaps.

Unfortunately it turns out I arrived a whole decade too late! Ever since the 2010 eruption of Eyjafjallajökull, the tourism has increased almost exponentially. Iceland is currently Europe's most expensive country due to the mass tourism, and in my opinion the return value for what you pay for is rather meagre. You really cannot blame the Icelanders though; the people are coming regardless of the service you provide, so why bother? Who would say "nei!" to free money?

For me, Iceland was the land of endless tourist caravans. A visit to each nature attraction starts with the same race for a parking space. Now I understand why rental car damage waiver makes sense in a country with population density of 3.4/km2. If you want to hike in untouched nature far away from the maddening crowds, Iceland is currently not the best choice. If you brought your selfie stick and are willing to wait in line to get your Instagram snap in front of yet another overcrowded waterfall, Iceland is ideal. In my humble opinion Northern Scandinavia has rather similar scenery but much better people-to-reindeer ratio.

I'm not entitled to fly in Iceland, moan about the crowds and expect the rest of the world to stay at home. A family from Beijing, Berlin or Boston have the same right being there as a grumpy geezer from Finland. I'm just saying that being stuck in crowds was not my cup of brennivín. Iceland is like the Phuket of the North: most of the people there are originating from elsewhere. There's nothing wrong with Polish people serving Chinese tourists American food, but I personally would prefer having my Polish culinary experience in Poland.

I left Iceland with mixed feelings and an empty wallet. We did quite a lot of hiking, and the nature is just as gorgeous as it looks in the pictures! Mother nature also blessed us with (mostly) good weather. We joined a walk on the glacier and took a boat ride to the edge of Vatnajökull; the guides were really nice and these were the definite highlights of the trip. At the same time I was really annoyed about people posing in front of absolutely everything and that rules like "No drones" -prohibition applied only to those visitors who actually would bother with the rules.

Disclaimer: I didn't wake up early in hopes of capturing dramatic “post card” sunrises at any of the locations. Everything is already done much better than what I could’ve possibly achieved in one week with my skills.

…will make you nauseated, tired and grumpy! Year 2019 has not been great for my photography hobby. Camera gear gathered dust on the shelf while I spent most of my free time just by being sick. I was too busy feeling gross at home to run around and shoot stuff; the only exercise I got was the 10 meter interval training from the bottom of the couch to the toilet seat.

I’ve never made a big fuss about it, but I’ve had a serious case of a chronic illness known as Crohn’s Disease since I was in my late teens. Although the disease made my life a living hell when I was young, surgeries and medication have kept the inflammation mostly in control since then. I was able to live a normal life for the last decade. Perhaps due to all the mental stress, things took a turn to worse in the end of the last year. I had a so called flare up. Dr. Crohn was back with a vengeance, this time with a new set of symptoms.

I had forgotten how it is to live on the terms of a sickness. It literally STINKS! Although I didn’t have severe pain this time, I had to plan everything with the proximity and availability of a toilet in my mind. Business trips are particularly challenging; there was one visit to Zürich last May I was scared if I can make it back home on my own at all. Fortunately I was able to get a level upgrade to business class. Sitting in the first row just in front of an exclusive toilet made the return trip a bit easier (for me, not necessarily to the other passengers).

The progressive tax rate in Finland is absolutely bonkers, so I refuse to use private doctors. Although I am grateful that there’s free public health care, holy mother of god does it have A LOT to improve! The specialists themselves are excellent, but getting help is a chore. Things happen on a glacial pace when you finally do get care. After months of waiting I finally gained access to a new medication, and the initial results are fortunately encouraging. Unfortunately that sweet stuff costs worth of a small car every year! At least I’m finally getting some return on all the tax money. The downside is that for the time being, we are permanently stuck living in Finland.

Every time I visit Japan I notice again how much I love that country (disclaimer: as long as I don't have to actually work and commute there). One contributing factor to the on-going love affair is the onsen. It is hard to imagine a better stress relief than sitting in a hot spring bath with a towel on your head, while snow is gently covering the surroundings in a white blanket. Lucky me: I got to experience Japan’s substitute for sauna multiple times again as we made a family trip to Kusatsu, Gunma Prefecture. I loved it! When it comes to hot springs, Kusatsu is legendary. It was considered Japan’s best spa already during the Edo Period (1603–1868). Beautiful scenery, hot baths, good food, and the place even smells like home (to be specific, like my man cave). I enjoyed the bathing so much that I'm sure I was a snow monkey in my previous life.

My wife did a huge job bringing Finnish Christmas to Japan. We brought some bread and ingredients with us, and she spent a whole day preparing various dishes. The end result was impressive! She conjured all the essentials from rice porridge and mixed fruit soup to rosolli, casseroles, salmon, pastries etc. Even the ham (sourced from Japan) tasted like the real deal; the only thing that was missing was my favourite mustard which I forgot home. Everyone politely pretended like they appreciated the Finnish food while I was actually enjoying it. We had the fundamentals of Japanese Christmas cuisine as well (fried chicken and a cake), so all in all it was a very nice family Christmas.

As usual, I did a lot of walking around the city with my camera. It’s interesting to just wander around and make observations. Some things keep changing, some remain always the same. Some changes are positive (like the super fast immigration at Narita Airport), some changes are tragic (the closure of my favourite doughnut shop). Some things that should change unfortunately don't (excessive use of plastics everywhere). In the end of the day, the best thing about our visits to Japan is meeting family and friends, and doing ごろごろ without a hurry anywhere. I hope that those things never change.

This time it was really hard to return back to Finland.

Mom’s ailing health was one contributing factor why I decided to move back to Finland. She got her final diagnosis in May. I had expected bad news, but it was still a shock. Nothing could be done. Nothing could've been done even if the disease had been found earlier, but at least I would've moved back sooner. Instead, unknowingly, I prioritised my previous job and project.

It was heartbreaking to see how my mother had to bid farewell to everything that mattered to her. First it was the long walks in the forest; nature had always been so important to her. Then driving around in her own car, the symbol of her freedom. Then her apartment, whose balcony renovation she never got to see to completion. Ultimately she had to say goodbye to her friends and close ones. It was a harsh lesson in the impermanence of everything. Life is a paradox: at the same time we try to hold on and learn to let go.

I loved my mother very much and I feel great gratitude for everything she did. One couldn't hope for a better mom. She did her very best to raise her children properly: she taught me honesty, accountability, fairness, and also caring and kindness, and she was always there to listen and help when I had worries. Kiitos!

She departed in peace and without pain. Somewhere, some day, we will meet again. Until then, lepää rauhassa äiti.

Fahr'n fahr'n fahr'n auf der Autobahn! After bidding farewells to Switzerland, I was stoked about the chance to drive through Germany. Although I worked in Bavaria, I had seen very little of the Bundesrepublik (Bavaria is the Texas of Germany anyway). Now I would get to see it all – at least as a green blur while blasting through it. Germany has some of the best road networks in the whole world so driving there is a bliss. Even though the highways don't have any speed limit at all and you're allowed to drive as fast as you please, construction zones and slower drivers often limit your pace. I was able to unleash the full power of my car only until I had reached the northern parts of the country. I actually enjoyed driving SO much that I purchased a souvenir: a picture of me in my car with my trademark stupid grin! Jawohl, there are speed cameras even in Germany, often purposely placed as traps right after the unlimited zones – to "maximise road safety". Scheiße!!

Since I wasn't in a horrible hurry, I decided to spend some time as a tourist on the way. The idea was to stay one night in Schwarzwald (the Black Forest) and next one in Northern Germany (I picked Hannover). I wanted to eat a Frankfurter in Frankfurt a.M., a hamburger in Hamburg and enjoy a Beck's in Lübeck (because no-one else ever has had the same idea). However I spent so long wandering in the Black Forest that I had to speed past Frankfurt. Hamburg was organising a city marathon without my approval and the running course rendered Altstadt and St. Pauli quarters inaccessible. Therefore I couldn't take a stroll on Germany's die sündigste Meile (the most sinful mile): - Reeperbahn. Perhaps it wouldn't have been that glamorous anyway since it was an early Sunday morning and I was driving a Volvo. I ended up spending the day in Lübeck instead, and that was a great decision. Lübeck is a lovely seaside city with a glamorous history as the capital of Hanseatic League - a merchant union that once dominated the Baltic Sea. I really enjoyed my day walking and dining in the old town of Lübeck.

The last stretch of the trip was through Sweden. I could've taken a direct ferry to Finland, but driving through Finland's beloved arch-rival was cheaper. I didn't have any time for sightseeing though. Not that it would've mattered: Sweden looks pretty much the same as Finland. The people are just prettier, wealthier and happier: in Sweden even the men know what abstract concepts like "moisturiser" or "manicure" mean. I tried to hide the fact that I was "en finne igen" - "yet another Finn" - but my cover was blown by the credit card I used. Every time I paid, the user interface switched automatically in Finnish. Pahus!

It's now been two weeks in Finland and I am already having a culture shock. After living with the Swiss and the Germans, it feels that people here don't have manners. I feel like an idiot every time I accidentally greet a neighbour or even a stranger. The Finns probably think that I'm either a drunk, a foreigner, or both. 

A minor update to my residence status: I moved to Finland!

When I got an opportunity to work in Japan in 2005, I almost didn't accept the offer. I don't remember what my excuses were (the real reason, anyway, was that I'm a coward), but fortunately a friend persuaded me to go. Which is convenient, because otherwise I would've regretted it dearly for the rest of my life! Back in 2005 I was not a seasoned traveler, just going to Stockholm or Tallinn was an ordeal, so I was worried how I would survive. My target was to endure in Tokyo for two years before running back home. Two years went by, then three, four, five, until I had stayed for almost a decade. During the years I met my wife and fell in love with her and the stunningly beautiful country. Now Japan is my other home.

In 2013 my wife got a job opportunity in Switzerland, so we decided to change the scenery a bit and move from Tokyo, Japan (over 30 million citizens) to St. Gallen in eastern Switzerland (with 75 000 Einwohner). I truly enjoyed the change of pace: life in Switzerland is slower and the nature is omnipresent. We had a really nice apartment next to the historic city center (Altstadt) so getting around was easy. In Switzerland, just like in Japan, things just work (I would say the same about Finland if the labour unions were not in a strike every other week).  We did some amazing hiking and skiing trips to the mountains, and we learned that anything tastes better if you eat it after climbing to the top of a mountain (however, the ultimate combination is simply some Italian salame with crackers and a can of beer)!  It took a while, but in the end we settled in nicely and the city and the canton started to feel like home. The only problem was that neither of our families lived in Switzerland, so over the years I started to feel home sick. When my wife was offered a position in Helsinki, we decided to pull the trigger.

Now that I have finally returned home, I am freaking out if I will be able to survive in Finland. My target is to last for two years. No more office with an Alpine mountain view. No more easy access to sweet delicious cheap German beer. No more just testing the maximum speed of my car on an Autobahn (strangely, it is limited precisely to 243km/h). No more feeling a little bit special as one of the very few Finns living in the town. Now I'm just a commoner, a country guy living in a city full of hipsters (I've always had an attitude problem towards Helsinki). It's funny how all my clothes are bought abroad, yet I still stand out like I'm straight out of rural Finland. Do I need a man bun to blend in? Anyway, I am mentally prepared to fight all the bureaucracy, brusque people and lousy customer service, but I am not sure if I will be able to survive the long winter any more.

After living in Finland for one week, I can already tell that the country has changed a lot in 13 years. I have definitely also changed, and not necessarily all to the better. Will I be able to endure Finland for two years? Time will tell. To stay positive, at least hockey is better here! ;)