Fox paint brush range

There’s plenty of variety in the Fox range – they even do mini rollers.

The Fox range is indeed extensive, and growing, and as you can see from the amount of brushes in the box I was sent, there is indeed a brush for pretty much every imaginable occasion.

All brushes have synthetic bristles, making them ideal for use with water-based paints, but as is the way with most modern synthetic bristled brushes, they are also designed for use with oil-based paints.

Personally, my main point of focus with a paint brush range is always aimed at how the standard, straight-cut brushes perform. Yes, it’s nice to have sash brushes, laying-off brushes, all different sizes etc. etc. but you really don’t ‘need’ them. I write more about this point in my ‘Buying paint brushes’ guide – 95% of the time, you only ‘need’ three brush type/sizes for DIY, so with this point in mind, this guide is mainly concerned with how the standard Fox straight-cut paint brush performs.

Using the brush

On initial inspection, the straight-cut brushes are of a very traditional design, with a nice wooden handle, steel ferrule, and the distinctive orange bristles are shaped beautifully – so A1 for appearance.

The Fox was great for cutting-in a precise, straight line, as required with features such as picture rails.

My first run-out with Fox paint brushes was to use a 2 inch (50 mm) brush for applying emulsion, and I would say that it passed the test with flying colours. In other words, you could hold plenty of paint with each brush load, you could cut-in an accurate straight line, and you could achieve a good flat finish with no brush marks.

I also opted for trying the 1.5 inch (38 mm) brush with water-based gloss and I was able to achieve very crisp, sharp lines, when cutting-in, but what was most impressive was the beautiful flat finish I managed on doors and window sills.

What about oil-based paint? Well, I ran a completely unscientific test on a panel door, by painting adjacent panels, one with the Fox, one with the DIY favourite – a Harris, and one with a Hamilton. I’d like to report some sort of huge difference, but I couldn’t really single out any brush for providing the best finish – honestly, all were good.

So what can I/we conclude?……I’m a brilliant painter with any brush!……mmm maybe not…….All brushes are the same!……errrr definitely not (note I didn’t use any real ‘cheapos’ in the test!)……..Or maybe it’s simply the case that the Fox fits well into the range of comparative brush designs on the market.

The Foxy conclusion

The Fox is a good ‘solid’ brush, and a great go-to brush for your brush box. It feels good in the hand, it provides a good finish, it cleans out well, it doesn’t shed bristles all over the place, and after a month or so of testing, it hasn’t fallen to pieces.

My favourite sizes – 2 inch, 1 inch and a fitch. Why these sizes – check out my ‘Buying paint brushes’ guide.

I think it compares well in performance with most other good quality synthetic bristled brushes. It could even be argued that the finish it provides is as good as that produced by a Purdy, a Rembrandt or other top of the range options – some may argue differently on this point, but what can’t be argued with is the value for money provided by Fox paint brushes.

I know there are always fluctuations in prices, but you’ll generally find that whether you buy a little set, or single brushes, Foxes are cheaper than Harris or Hamilton brushes, and definitely cheaper than Purdy.

As mentioned earlier, I’m not one for having every size of brush – as pictured above, there are three sizes that I go for with paint brushes and those would be the Foxes I would recommend.

It’s also worth mentioning that Fox paint brushes are British made, so it’s nice to support something from ‘home’ for a change.

Whether you’re a pro or DIYer, buying some Foxes for your brush box is definitely a worthwhile investment – to check out the deals available, go to Mypaintbrush to view the whole range! Also, do pay a visit to my friends at Traditional Painter for a few more views on the Fox.

The post Fox paint brushes appeared first on Julian Cassell's DIY Blog.

Redback kneepad design

Redback knee pads from both sides – everyone clear where your knee goes…….?

A Redback kneepad is essentially a rubbery honeycomb design that helps spread your weight across the pad when kneeling down, therefore offering greater protection than traditional knee pad designs. They’re shaped to fit around your knee, which provides good comfort levels, and the large holes in their structure ventilate the pad so your knee area doesn’t get too hot.

Wrapped around the honeycomb pads are an abrasive resistant cover, and if there’s any uncertainty about where to put your knees, they even label them, to make sure there’s no doubt about orientation or positioning. Some might say a bit OTT, but I’d rather say foolproof, and I never have a problem with explicit instructions.

How to use Redbacks

Kneepads are simply slid into place in the knee pockets of your work trousers.

Redbacks will fit into nearly all types of work trouser, as long as they contain knee pockets.

Whether the knee pockets are top-loading or bottom-loading makes no difference, the Redbacks are simply inserted in place, and you’re ready for work.

As shown to the right, I always put knee pads in, trousers off, as otherwise they can be difficult to get in place. Bear in mind that they are meant to be a tight fit, but if there’s no way they’re going in, they can always be trimmed slightly to fit.

Do they work?

Yes, they certainly do, but they did need a bit of getting used to – like any ‘new’ design. The first thing you notice is that Redbacks are heavier than most other knee pads, so you do start thinking “….have I got to lug these around all day?……”. However, once they’ve been on for a while, and you actually get down on your knees to work, you find the pads are very comfortable, fit well, and provide a very good level of protection – there’s a real secure feeling of your knees being very well padded.

After a full week of ‘test-driving’, I can say that any early concerns about the Redbacks’ weight issue quickly dissolved, and I forgot I was wearing them – the ideal situation for any protective equipment.

One other great selling point in my view is that Redbacks can be put through the washing machine, so you don’t need to keep taking them out, and putting them back in – a small chore you may say, but one that has always wound me up.

Limitations

As always, even good products have limitations, and Redbacks are no different in this regard.

• By design, you need work trousers with knee pockets to use Redbacks (although I’m told they are going to produce a version with straps).
• Following on from above, Redbacks will only be effective if you’ve got ‘good’ work trousers i.e. the knee pockets are in the right place (an essential design issue with work trousers that, amazingly, seems to go by the wayside with many manufacturers). So this is not a criticism directed solely at Redbacks, but it is more important with a heavy knee pad so that you don’t suffer from the situaton where the pad slips below the knee, and you ‘fall’ off the edge of the pad when kneeling down (ouch).
• Price could be considered a limiting factor as they’re not an inexpensive option, but good products rarely are. They can be bought from independent suppliers, but you’ll also find them on Amazon.

If you’re on a budget, Redbacks may not be for you, and many would see them as a ‘trade product’ – a phrase I hate, because if it’s good enough for the trade, I don’t see why it shouldn’t be opened up to the DIY market. Therefore, if you want to treat yourself, Redbacks are a great investment for your DIY toolkit, as they quite clearly provide some of the best knee protection that money can buy.

The post Redbacks appeared first on Julian Cassell's DIY Blog.

Zinsser 123 uses

Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 does what it says on the tin…….well nearly, in my opinion!

Well if you read the side of the tin, Zinsser 123 claims to prime just about any surface, including ceramic tiles, aluminium, stainless steel, vinyl, melamine, plastic, wood, masonry…..and the list goes on.

Crucially, it is also a stain blocker, so grease spots, graffiti, and damp stains are further additions to the list of problems that 123 can seal.

Because it dries very quickly, typically in 30 minutes, means you can get on with your top coats in the same day.

Painting with 123

Zinsser 123 is water-based, and so it’s a pretty user-friendly product. In other words, it doesn’t produce overpowering fumes as it has a low VOC content.

It’s easy to apply with brush and/or roller and goes on much like a mid sheen emulsion paint, drying quickly in readiness for your top coats of paint. Clean up after work is simple because 123 is water-based.

Zinsser 123 limitations

The problem I find with Zinsser 123 is that although it does pretty much everything it says on the tin, in some cases, it doesn’t do it quite as well as Zinsser BIN. Here are a few examples:-

1. When priming a melamine shelf surface, I find that Zinsser BIN provides a very tough base coat that is less likely to chip than is the case with Zinsser 123.

2. For stubborn grease marks on a wall surface, BIN nearly always blocks out the mark, but with Zinsser 123, the mark can sometimes bleed back through subsequent paint layers.

3. With damp staining, the same as point 2 above really – you sometimes get a bit of bleed back through the finish, so BIN can be a better option.

When do I use Zinsser 123?

I find 123 is an excellent base coat when, as examples, re-decorating bathroom ceilings that may have been subject to condensation/mould problems, kitchen ceilings where cooking fumes have caused some staining, and living rooms where an open fire has caused some soot staining of the ceiling. Remember that before applying 123, you still need to clean down as best is possible in order to provide as sound a surface as you can.

In all the above cases, using the solvent-based Zinsser BIN is not really an option as it is incredibly difficult to apply evenly on large open surface areas, because it dries so quickly. The smell of BIN is also pretty hideous, so again, never ideal for large areas. 

So if you’ve got a wall or ceiling that needs priming, sealing, or a general stain blocking, I’d thoroughly recommend giving Zinsser 123 a go. With any small areas where stains still bleed through, you can still patch prime these with some Zinsser BIN before overcoating. You tend not to find Zinsser 123 in most of the DIY outlets, so take a trip down to your local decorating merchant, or you can always order it through Amazon.

The post Zinsser 123 appeared first on Julian Cassell's DIY Blog.

The following guide should help you address any such issues, as well as provide you with plenty more tips on achieving the best finish when painting a feature wall.

Painting tools and materials

The most popular tools for the job are rollers and paintbrushes. Without using good quality brushes, rollers and paint, you won’t get a good quality finish. Therefore, if you’re in any doubt about what to buy, there is plenty of information on this in my Decorating Buying Guides.

Also there’s absolutely no need to use any ‘special’ paint as you’ll find some manufacturers supply what they generally term as ‘Feature Wall Paint’. As far as I can tell, it’s an emulsion paint that has no difference in composition to any other emulsion paint designed for painting walls. However, the fact that the term ‘Feature Wall’ is on the front of the can seems to make the manufacturers add a few extra pounds onto the price!

So you can use ‘Feature Wall Paint’ if you wish, but you’ll literally be paying that little extra for absolutely nothing different.

Painting technique

Painting technique for a feature wall often needs a little tweaking if you’ve gone down the bold or accent colour route. The problem with such colours is that they can sometimes enhance more general painting problems:-

     1) Paint flashing

Flashing is a term used to describe the different shades or sheens of colour you sometimes see on a wall after painting. Incredibly annoying when it occurs, flashing is generally caused by one of two factors.

Make sure you keep a wet edge, to ensure no ‘dry’ overlaps between rolled and cut in areas.

Firstly, paint will often dry to a different colour on areas that you have filled during the preparation process. This can happen with any paint, but it’s normally much more pronounced with bolder colours. The solution is to ensure that you prime these areas with some of your feature wall paint (slightly diluted), before applying full coats to the wall. If it has been necessary to do a lot of filling, I then tend to actually prime the whole wall with a primer sealer. My primer of choice for this job is Zinsser 123, which pretty much guarantees me that I won’t get any such flashing issues.

Secondly, you can get flashing where you paint onto the edge of an already dried area of the same paint. This most commonly occurs at the join between the main rolled area of wall, and the edges of a wall where you’ve used a paint brush to ‘cut in’. Again, with lighter colours, you often don’t get this problem, but with darker colours, the issue can be very pronounced! It is therefore important to maintain a ‘wet edge’ (not letting one area dry out before joining with the other), allowing you to effectively blend this join.

     2) Number of coats

This was the third coat…..two more needed for perfection!

Normally, two coats of emulsion when re-decorating, is sufficient. On new plaster, one slightly thinned base coat (mist coat) followed by two full coats, is all that is required. However, with accent colours, you may get away with two coats, often three, sometimes four, and maybe even five for perfection!

With the feature wall shown here, I actually had to use five coats. Don’t ask me the exact scientific reason why such problems occur with dark colours, but it just does. You’ll also find that oranges and reds tend to be the biggest offenders.

Some feature wall tips

Good preparation is essential, as remember this wall will be the focal point in the room and any imperfections will be very obvious.

In an average sized room, you’ll generally need 2.5 litres of paint for the feature wall. This could seem excessive, but trust me, if you want the best finish, you do normally need those extra coats.

If you’re struggling to keep a ‘wet edge’, there’s nothing stopping two of you doing the job, one cutting in, and one rolling.

A mini roller can get you very close to the edge!

All rollers produce some degree of texture in the paint finish, and at the edge of the wall there will always be some sort of join between brush and roller strokes. Good tools and technique generally make the join unnoticeable. But, with some bolder colours, the way that both natural and artificial light ‘catches’ even the slightest imperfection, can be more pronounced, often leading to a ‘framed’ effect to the wall.

If you find you’re having this problem, try using a mini roller to ‘lay off’ gently over the cut in areas to blend the join more efficiently. The size of the mini roller, allows you to get just that little bit closer to the corner junction, than is the case with a large roller, and can help provide a completely seamless finish.

Final thoughts

Most of the points I’ve described here can be applied to your painting technique as a whole, and are not just limited to feature wall painting.

If paint isn’t your ‘thing’, do check out my guide on how to wallpaper a feature wall, in order to get the best effect.

For some inspiration on choosing colours and schemes, UKTV provide some good further reading on feature walls.

The post Painting a feature wall appeared first on Julian Cassell's DIY Blog.

Rembrandt brush range

Rembrandt with stubby short handle.

As with most paint brush ranges, you get different sizes, but with the Rembrandt angular sash brushes, you also get different handle designs with short stubby options as well as longer handled versions – more on this point later.

The basic quality of build is as robust as paint brushes get, the pretty yellow bristles make them easily identifiable, and the semi-oval angled design is the key factor in how the brush actually performs.

Why the angle?

Why indeed?……which has always been my general opinion of angled brushes as I’ve always had (and I stress had!) the feeling that this was a gimmick that convinces consumers that you have to have an angled brush, as it will make it easier to cut in into corners. Well, quite frankly, decorators and DIYers have managed for very many years, using a traditional straight cut brush, without a problem, and I can remember in the distant past trying what must have been a ‘first generation’ angled brush, finding it difficult and slow to use, as well as providing a pretty poor finish – in hindsight, what should I have expected from what was basically a straight cut brush which someone had hacked bristles off at far too acute an angle.

The Rembrandt angular sash brush however, bears little resemblance to earlier generations of angled brush, and instead, I found it to be a beautifully designed tool for applying paint. The slight angle of cut and taper on the bristles certainly makes it easy to get into corners and cut in, in a straight line.

Rembrandt in use

Rembrandt with long handle – my preference.

I gave both the stubby and long handled versions a run out to see which I preferred. I thought I’d be opting for the compact nature of the stubby design, but in practice I actually found the long handled version seemed to be better balanced, and sit more comfortably in the hand. The stubby would come into its own when space is limited – such as between shelves in a wardrobe, for example.

Cutting in wall colour to ceiling using a Rembrandt with a long handle.

As you can see from the photo bottom right, I actually used it with an incredibly strong colour, so that any mistakes in cutting in would stand out like the proverbial.

I honestly have to say that I think the brush design made it very easy to cut in a precise straight line.

I’m not saying you have to have a Rembrandt to cut in accurately as the job can be done perfectly well with a good quality straight cut brush, but I suppose it’s a bit like driving an automatic car compared to a manual one – in both cases you’ll get to where you want to, but the ‘automatic’ Rembrandt simply requires less effort.

Keeping the angled bit aside, I think it’s also worth mentioning that the quality of the bristles, with the oval design, not only seem to allow you to hold quite a lot of paint on the brush when you load it, but also provides and excellent finish as you distribute the paint on the wall surface and lay it off.

Where to buy

Therefore, all said, I have no hesitation in recommending the Rembrandt range. They’re not a cheap option (quality never is!), but I also don’t think they’re particularly expensive, and if you’ve been using let’s say, ‘average’ quality brushes up to now, you’ll definitely see the difference when you try using a Rembrandt.

Rembrandts have come across the pond from the States, like many of the top quality paint brush options, and so you won’t find them on the shelves of DIY sheds, or even most trade suppliers. However, you can purchase Rembrandts at mypaintbrush.co.uk where you can view the full range, along with a number of other quality decorating products, which may also catch your eye. On your next DIY home decorating project, consider giving a Rembrandt a go, you won’t regret it!

The post Rembrandt angular sash brushes appeared first on Julian Cassell's DIY Blog.

How do Grip It fixings work ?

Once the Grip It fixing is positioned snugly in the plasterboard, you turn the little screws to open up the flaps inside the wall.

At the required fixing position, you drill a hole which has a diameter that must be the exact size specified for the fixing. For example, the blue 25-2 fixing shown to the right requires a 25mm hole. You can use a spade bit or holesaw, but be sure to drill as precise a hole as possible.

Continue to follow the guidelines on the pack about gently tapping the fixing in to the correct depth (a little depth gauge is provided), but make sure you don’t tap too hard, or you will lose the fixing inside the wall! After this, the clever bit comes, as you then use a screwdriver to open the flaps at the back of the fixing. These flaps prevent the fixing from pulling back through the plasterboard, and are the main reason that these little beauties can be used to hold such substantial weights.

Depending on the size of fixing you have used, either a bolt or screw is inserted in the central hole of the Grip It fixing, to hold your chosen fitting in place.

Grip It fixing sizes

There are four sizes of Grip It fixings, and you simply choose the one that best suits the loading you require.

Grip It fixings come in a range of 4 sizes. The company literature states that for the smallest option you can achieve a maximum shear load capacity of 50 Kgs, and with the largest fixing, it goes up to a massive 180 kgs.

They do halve these figures with a suggestion for shear ‘safe’ loading, but that still means 90 kg for their largest fixing.

For those of us who have trouble picturing that sort of weight (which includes me), we’re looking at nearly 4 standard bags of cement, or about 1400 eggs, or around 25 X-Box 360s, or nearly a whole Usain Bolt. Quite staggering really, and certainly greater than equivalents in the market place.

Uses and limitations

I’ve literally only just come across Grip It fixings, at Grand Designs Live last week, but I did have a very good ‘play’ with them, asked a lot of questions, did the demo, and spent the last couple of days with some further experimentation. So, my conclusions go like this…..

• First up, they do work, no doubt about it, but because plasterboard is so easy to damage, you really have to be careful when making your hole, as any crumbly edges need to be avoided.
• I think they rely on some form of fixing plate (as supplied with most TV brackets for example), or fitting that clamps tightly against the wall (a hook for example), in order to provide a really secure anchoring point. In other words, if you just use the Grip It fixing with a screw or bolt on it’s own and hang, for example, a heavy picture directly from it, I’d imagine this could distort the position of the fixing in the wall and therefore compromise strength.
• With regards to price, they are a little more expensive than other options, but Grip Its do take heavier loads, so I’d say they’re really good value for money. And of course, you can reuse them! Most hollow wall fixings may only be used once, but with Grip It, you just rotate the little screws to ‘close’ the flaps and pull it out the plasterboard.
• I think that they’re primary use would be in stud walls where the vast majority of the area below the plasterboard is a void, as with drylined (dot and dabbed) walls, I’d be a bit concerned about hitting the edge of dabs of adhesive too often, so I’d be more likely to use extra long plugs and screws in these cases, and fix directly to the blockwork.

All said, I think Grip It fixings do present a viable option when trying to create a secure fixing point in stud walls. I’d always try and fix into the wooden studs if possible, but let’s face it, they’re rarely in the ‘right’ place. I’m not sure I’d feel confident to hang really heavy stuff off them yet, as I need more evidence, demos, and real life examples, to convince me of their astounding loading capabilities. To me, it feels a bit like that advert they used to show with the bloke dangling on a section of wall from a helicopter, held only in place by the strength of some wallpaper paste – you just sort of think …..really?!

Grip It are a British company, the fixings are made in Britain, and it’s great to see how these guys have clearly worked hard to get a great idea to the market. Therefore, I do hope that one day they’ll be able to crush any of my reservations about they’re really heavy-duty uses, as if they can convince a ‘new product cynic’ like me, they’ll be able to convince anyone!

Grip It fixings are available in plenty of independent retailers, as well as with the big boys like Wickes and Amazon.I’d recommend giving them a go!

For more information check out the Grip It website.

The post Grip It fixings appeared first on Julian Cassell's DIY Blog.

1. Buy in advance

If you’re planning a weekend of DIY, buy your equipment and materials the week before. Otherwise you lose half of Saturday down at your local DIY shed, which you’ll be regretting by eleven o’clock on Sunday night. So, if you think a particular job is going to take the full weekend, don’t waste half a day before you start.

Always make sure your spare batteries are charged before starting work.

2. Charge batteries

In a world of battery-operated power tools, make sure you have everything that needs charging up sorted the day before you start work.

3. Get ahead

Again, if you’re working a weekend, try and get a time-saving job out the way on the Friday evening. For example, if you’re decorating, look around the walls of the room the night before and fill any large, deep, holes. The filler will dry overnight, so you’re then ready to crack on in the morning. The alternative would mean filling the holes on the Saturday morning, then having to wait for it to dry all day before you can continue to do anything else.

4. Plan your order of work

Ideally write it down, but whatever you do make sure you’ve planned out the right order of work for the project you are carrying out. The other reason I’d advise writing it down is that it gives you a very satisfying checklist to tick off as you achieve each task, but long before this, it helps you picture the work involved. This allows you to estimate how long it will take, and visualise all the different tools and materials you need, so you don’t forget anything.

5. Check your tools

It’s often the case that you get ready to start a job, grab your tools that have been in the shed, and find something is missing, you haven’t got the right size, or you really need a new model of a particular tool. So, do this check the week before you start, so you can add to your shopping list if necessary.

Always buy the best quality tools you can afford. For example, having a good quality tile cutter that can cut straight, thin, pieces will save you hours, and hours, and……hours.

6. Buy quality

Cheap tools don’t really work, cheap materials often result in you using twice as much than is necessary to do the job, and both cheap tools and materials don’t normally last very long. Spend a bit more on quality whether it be a tin of paint, paint brushes, or power tools. Using quality tools and equipment always, always saves time.

Check out my ‘Buying Guides’ for loads more information on what I’ve found to be the best tools and materials for DIY, which as a rule means they’re also the most time efficient.

7. Clear the area

Clearing the area, or room, you are working in will always increase the speed with which you accomplish any DIY job. For example, if you’re decorating a room, get everything out, if at all possible. It then becomes so easy to spread dust sheets, gain access to all areas, and have no obstacles to trip over or work around.

8. Clear people

If people are around, that normally means you’ll get distracted. In other words, get the kids out of the way with friends so you can concentrate solely on the job at hand.

9. Avoid the phone

Don’t look at your mobile, and only take calls in emergencies e.g. the friends you’ve just left your kids with have realised why you wanted them out of the way, and want to give them back!

10. Don’t cut corners

Cutting corners such as using one coat of paint instead of two can lead to an inferior finish, but cutting corners by using too few fixings than required for a job, can lead to far more dangerous results altogether. So always do a proper job, get the best finish, and always be safe.

If you put into practice some, or even all of these tips, I can almost guarantee that you’ll save time on your next DIY job. Also, if you’ve got any time-saving tips you’d like to share, do feel free to add them to the comments below – I’d love to hear about them!

The post The top 10 DIY time-saving tips appeared first on Julian Cassell's DIY Blog.

The story behind this piece of art begins with an olive tree. In the last few years olive trees have crept into gardens across Northern Europe, as it became clear that they ‘could’ survive away from their established roots in the more southern European climate. However, the relocation of an old olive tree is not always successful. If the worst does happen, you can either dig out the dead tree, dripping tears down your spade handle as you mourn the loss of both such a beautiful plant, along with the fortune it cost, or…… you can improvise.

Therefore why not use the framework offered by the tree as part of the support for growing pumpkins! Think of the space you save in the garden, by being able to grow several pumpkins in an area of land that would usually only be able to yield one or two!

The real DIY aspect of the ‘pumpkin tree’ is in making the additional support to create the rounded shape of the crown. Basically, lengths of rebar (steel rods usually associated with reinforcing concrete!) are bent to  curve over from branches on either side of the tree, creating a super strong rounded frame. The rebar is held in place by simply binding it onto the olive tree branches using some wire. After that, with a bit of training of shoots, you let nature take its course and up she goes.

One final point about the variety of ‘pumpkins’ being grown here is that they are actually petit marrons, a type of squash, commonly grown in France, and indeed where this tree was created. If I hadn’t seen this with my own eyes, I wouldn’t have believed that such large examples could be grown without dropping before maturity, but the plant strength is clear, and to grow larger ones there’s nothing to stop you supporting the weight of the pumpkin on a branch, or suspending it in a netting bag from a section of rebar (although this does rather ruin the effect).

So if you’ve got a dead olive tree, and want to add a bit of fantasy to your garden, why not give a pumpkin tree a go. Just watch out for falling pumpkins come harvesting time!

The post Pumpkin trees appeared first on Julian Cassell's DIY Blog.

Colour Republic – Complete interior refurbishment specialists, based in Brighton.

What makes Colour Republic stand out from the crowd is that they can cater for all building and renovation needs at whatever level. They’re just as proficient at simple property maintenance as they are with more specialist services, such as building bespoke bedroom furniture, or even providing some unique wall art.

I’ve been lucky enough to get hold of Colour Republic owner Rob, prise him away from his busy schedule, and grill him for his opinions and advice on a number of DIY topics. So sit back and enjoy some top tips from a top pro!

1. Are you finding that there are any particular decorating trends at the moment?

50 Shades of Grey! Creams are out and shades of grey are in. But these aren’t your cold greys of the 80’s but warm greys that have undertones of purples, browns and greens. It’s surprising just how warm and neutral these greys can be.

2. Have you any top tips for a DIY enthusiast who wants to fit their own kitchen?

Plan, plan, plan… And then plan again! Many of the failed kitchens we see are down to poor planning whereby people have gone in head first and try and make it up as they go along. This often shows in the finish with compromises they have had to make in the latter stages. Have a good idea of all the finishes before you start, items such as flooring can have an impact on the height you install your kitchen worktops for instance. A Lino floor can be just a few millimetres thick where as a tiled floor can be as much as 30mm. It’s no good getting to the flooring stage and then finding your choices limited because your appliances no longer fit due to increased floor height.

It is a good idea to draw your complete kitchen out on the walls before you start to make sure everything will fit.

In addition, really think about how you are going to use your kitchen when it’s finished, and what function each area will have. Don’t just put in as many units as you can but envisage what each unit will have stored in it.

A recent project form Colour Republic showing how effective a marble tile floor can be in the right surroundings.

3. For me, tiling has changed a great deal in recent years with the popularity of larger heavier tiles, wet rooms, and underfloor heating. What advice would you give to a DIY enthusiast who fancies following one or more of these trends?

You’re right there has been a big step forward with the huge range of products and styles now easily available. This has also brought a much more challenging side to tiling which can now be very technical indeed. It’s no longer simply a case of sticking tiles to a wall or floor, there can be extensive prep work involved to ensure your tiling lasts and is safe.

Different tiles require different handling, different prep work and different adhesives, but don’t despair, help is on hand as there is a huge amount of info available on the internet to research your project before you start.

It’s sad to say but don’t always trust the advice you receive off retailers as it is often lacking; seek advice from professional tilers who are often willing to share information via internet forums. Lastly with regards to wetrooms, there are no short cuts as the consequences can be devastating.

4. Taking into account size, bristle type, and affordability, if you had to recommend three paint brushes to the keen home decorator, what would they be?

Easy! Whilst we use a huge range of brushes of all shapes and sizes for various tasks, you still can’t beat a multi pack box of Purdy Monarch Elites as a good ‘all rounder’ set to get you started. They are easily available, well priced and come with the sizes you need. They are synthetic blend bristles and will work in oils, water-based and hybrid paints. On the subject of brush sizes it’s always worth mentioning that it’s easier to paint a straight line with a large brush as opposed to a small one. It’s often a misconception that a smaller brush gives you greater control but in most cases the opposite is true.

5. In answering questions for both amateurs and pros on the Ultimate Handyman Forum, it’s very clear that you keep bang up to date with new products and tools on the market. Is there one particular ‘new’ product that stands out as a must for DIY?

That’s a tough one. Many of the tools I would suggest are just too expensive for occasional DIY use to warrant the outlay. Product wise I highly recommend the Krud Kutter range of products – although not that new as they have been in the UK market for a few years now – I’m constantly finding new uses for their products, which just ‘work’.

6. I often want to tap people on the shoulder in a DIY store, and suggest that the item they have in their hands would in my opinion hinder, rather than help the DIY project they are about to embark on. In your opinion, are there any such products that have you imagining the worst when you peer into someone’s basket at the checkout?

Those ‘easy’ skim fillers or crack filling paint which are supposed to make your walls super flat and do away with plastering. They don’t!! A horrible horrible product. You would never catch a tradesman using such products and there is good reason for that. They cause more problems than they solve. Don’t even contemplate buying that rubbish. Did I mention how much I hate them?

7. Assuming a reasonable level of DIY/building knowledge, do you think a homeowner can project manage their own large refurbishment project, in which they themselves want to carry out a proportion of the work?

It’s very possible. The key to this, assuming you have hired good tradesmen, is seeking and listening to their advice especially at the planning stage before the works start. They are the professionals and even when you might not understand why things are done in a certain way or which may seem odd to you, there is often a very good reason for it. Work with your tradesmen not against them. You’ll also find they are willing to help you with the areas you intend to tackle yourself, we often spec. and supply materials to our clients for this reason and in some cases lend them the tools to carry out the works.

8. Many of the DIY ‘time-saving tips’ I read about in books, magazines, or on the web are…..let’s face it…..bodges! Do you have a genuine DIY time-saving tip that would help my readers?

This might not be the answer you are expecting but any task can be reduced in time simply by clearing your work area and getting organised. Might be a bit of a boring answer but it’s true. You’ll get it done in half the time if you give yourself room to work.

9. Money is tight for many people at the moment. If a new bathroom is simply not an option for someone, have you any suggestions for a ‘makeover’ instead?

Accessorise. Just buying some nice matching towels, pictures and bathroom organisers can breathe new life in to a tired bathroom. A fresh lick of paint (colour matched to your new towels of course) and tidying up discoloured grout helps massively too. You don’t even have to regrout (a very time consuming job) as you can use professional grout colorants such as Mapei fuga fresca or Aqua Mix grout colorant (not to be confused with DIY grout pens).

10…and finally a ‘Quick fire 5’ – only one answer allowed Rob!

Makita or DeWalt? Makita.

Paint or wallpaper? I can’t answer that. That’s like asking which of your children you love most! Oh all right, wallpaper. Just don’t tell paint I said that.

Engineered wood floors or real wood floors? Engineered.

Mapei or Bal tile adhesives and grout. Mapei (Although Tilemaster are turning a few heads in the tiling industry right now).

Kitchens or bathrooms? Kitchens.

Colour Republic offer a complete decoration service, so from straightforward revamps with paint, to hanging speciality wallcoverings such as grass cloth and silks, Rob and his team can meet all your needs.

A massive thanks to Rob for sharing his knowledge – there’s plenty in there to help out in any number of DIY projects.

However, if you live in the South East, and you’re not in the DIY mood with an upcoming renovation project, I’d suggest it would be well worth your while contacting Colour Republic.

As well as being the boss, Rob is very ‘hands on’ with all the work, so you can be confident that right from the planning stage, and all the way through to completion, your project is being well looked after!

The post Colour Republic appeared first on Julian Cassell's DIY Blog.

Why do charcoal cooker hood filters need replacing?

New charcoal filter on the left – old charcoal filter on the right. Time for replacement I think!

Well, quite simply because they eventually get clogged up with grease, and therefore can no longer filter the air.

Designs of cooker hood filter vary, but the round ones shown here are commonly used by all the best known cooker hood manufacturers.

Most manufacturers will recommend changing charcoal filters every three to six months, but in practice, you can normally get away with replacing them once a year.

The photo shows an old filter on the right, and a new one on the left. As you can see, the old filter is completely blocked up, and trust me, it was very greasy to the touch!

How to replace charcoal filters

How to replace the filters in your cooker hood will of course be rather dependent on design, but the method shown below is a typical example – it’s always best to refer to the cooker hood manual if in any doubt.

First of all make sure that the power to the hood is turned off at the consumer unit.

	1. Undo the grease filters to expose the extractor unit inside the hood. On this design, they simply unclip. On others, you may need a screwdriver.
	2. A slight rotation of the filter releases it from the unit. Fit the new charcoal filter by aligning it with the ‘nibs’ on the unit and again, rotate it slightly to ‘lock’ it in position. Most fans have two filters, one on either side of the unit, some will just have one.

Once the charcoal filters are secured in the correct position, refit the grease filters, and you can then turn the power back on. Incidentally, the grease filters on your cooker hood are other items that need periodic maintenance, and as the name suggests, their primary function is to remove grease from the air as it is sucked up into the cooker hood.

The aluminium filters shown here can be washed in the sink with fairy liquid and rinsed before being replaced, or most can actually be cleaned in the dishwasher, but check your manufacturer’s recommendations. Some cooker hood designs will use paper grease filters – these can’t be cleaned, and will need replacing once they become clogged – this is again a very straightforward DIY job.

Where to buy charcoal cooker hood filters

First of all, you need to make sure that you’re buying the right design for your cooker hood by finding out the model number. With most cooker hoods, you’ll find this inside the hood, after you’ve removed the grease filters.

Once you’ve identified your model, I find that it’s best to simply do a bit of a price check on a few of the many ‘Cooker Spares’ sites on the net, and it’s also worth checking out our old friend Amazon, as they often come up with the best price!

The post Charcoal cooker hood filters appeared first on Julian Cassell's DIY Blog.