Junk Trades

George Harrison - What Is Life (Official Music Video)

2019-11-19T23:21:00.001-08:00

Disney Character Alarm Clock

2015-10-20T11:19:00.003-07:00

Check it out.

https://www.facebook.com/junktrades?ref=hl

Selling Silver Plated Flatware on EBay

2014-04-11T18:15:00.001-07:00

https://www.facebook.com/junktrades?ref=hl

Looking Like a Ripped Beast

2013-09-19T18:57:00.002-07:00

Not really. It's just an illusion of the pendulum but sometimes it's hard to get out of your own way. Like some cell phones, not all cameras have a nice clear image viewer in bright sunlight and can be difficult to see. I was doing a little guessing and hoping for the best or at least have a centered and focused shot. The results were interesting to say the least. Tip of the day: Make sure you wear clothing when listing.
I posted them anyway.

2013-07-21T10:34:00.000-07:00

Local Resellers Groups

I have been selling items online for many years now both on Ebay and Craig's List. Each has their distinct advantages and disadvantages .

Ebay is a good place to sell hard to find and unusual items even common pieces such as sterling flatware, dishes, dolls and scrap gold. It exposes it to a larger established following and most of the time they will pay for their item thanks to the strict rules ebay has in place for members.

Craig's List is a good place to sell large hard to handle and ship items like furniture, bikes, and lawn mowers or find a date with a lonely "BBW". It's anonymous, quick, free and well, not that reliable when it comes to buyers showing up. Sometimes they do show, but a lot of times I end up waiting around for nothing. They don't call, cancel or even email to let me know they don't want it anymore.. That's part of the problem with Craig's List. I just accept it as part of the deal. I've been burned so many times by these empty promises I've made it policy to hold nothing for anyone. I don't care how bad they want it and if they "guarantee" they will be here.

"Puhleeeez hold it for me!! I want it! I'll come out this weekend"

"Nope, sorry. First come first serve"

What do you want for nothing right?

https://www.facebook.com/junktrades?ref=hl

Ebay Buyer Scam?

2013-05-04T21:40:00.001-07:00

Scam? You be the judge...

I have sold items on Ebay since 1996. Over the years I have had users contact me wanting me to stop an auction format sale (end it early) with an offer of what they feel is a fair price. I never do. Not because Ebay doesn't permit it, but it's usually a good indication the item for sale will bring way more than the offer the user is presenting me.

It seems some of these disappointed buyers have found a clever new and very scummy way to attempt to get the item without paying full price even if it brings a higher price than they want to bid.

Here's how it works.

Say I list a painting for 50 bucks starting price. It eventually get's bid up to 175.00 and the auction ends in 18 minutes. If you've sold anything on Ebay you know sometimes the last minute of the sale is when all the action happens. Two bidders can fight over a piece down to the last 2 seconds. The deceitful high bidder will send me a message during the final hour with an apology similar to this

"Hi, I am currently high bidder on your painting. I typed in the bid box $17500 INSTEAD of 175.00 I'm at work and I can't fix it until I get home. I will only pay $175.00 that was what I wanted to pay and no more than that. I'm very sorry

-mister_shifty_dirtbag"

What does this mean? He will be the high bidder even if it brings $400.00 or more. I can't end a sale early in the last hour but I can cancel bids IF I'm home and I open the email before the sale ends. Otherwise, he wins the item. Now I usually wouldn't think anything about someone making a mistake like this, but when it happened again with a hauntingly familiar line of bullshit, I smell a rat. Now I'm not saying that an "accident" like this can't happen twice, but in my opinion, it is unlikely and too convenient.

What if the painting brought $192.00? The winning bidder already said he was only paying $175. If I tell him no and he cancels, the back up bidder may not respond to my second chance offer. Sometimes when an item is relisted it brings less. In fear of that and possible negative feedback, I just sell it to the scam guy for his bid of $175. It's dirty.

Even though I'm not obligated to sell it at his price the buyer could get nasty about it.

I have wonder how many sellers cave into their "Oops! I'm a typo dummy" story and sell their item at the lower bid price to avoid negative feedback or the backup bidder changing their mind.

My policy, if caught in time, is to cancel their bid and block them. I don't believe anyone is that simple. They can fix it immediately after bidding. The process is two step and ask BOTH times "your bid is" they have 2 chances to correct it. It's clear and very easy to read. If anyone else had a similar experience, I'd like to hear from you.

Angel Drives To Bayport

2013-03-25T15:03:00.000-07:00

She just likes it there...

Thrift Store Buying Etiquette

2013-03-20T19:38:00.000-07:00

A while back I caught up with a friend of mine to check out the some of the local yard sales and thrift stores in Hernando and Pasco County. The great thing about second hand stores, especially church oriented or ministry run industries, they recruit volunteers that have limited knowledge and at times can be completely clueless when it comes to pricing items as well as a steady stream of fresh merchandise stocked throughout the day.

It was a weekday that turned out to be one of the best days I've had in a while for the little I spent. We hit all the regular stops then went to a local charity thrift store.

At the counter was a showcase used for what they thought was the good merchandise. Things they consider high value or collectible enough to protect behind glass. In with the cheap sunglasses, old Avon perfume bottles, over priced common baseball cards and chipped plates that belong in the trash I noticed behind the counter was a bag of costume jewelry tucked in a box that had assorted gold filled or what appeared plated rings chains and rhinestone pins. I asked the clerk to see the box.

"Oh I was just getting ready to put that out"

Music to my giant floppy ears...

"Great, can I take a look?" I replied.

"I haven't had a chance to price it yet." She said.

Tip: (Here is a good time to turn on your nice guy charm that you usually waste on the hot girls at gas stations or the cute cashier at Walgreens. You know, the girls who could care less about you. Use all your powers that you've skillfully honed and developed through years of dealing with the opposite sex as a man relating to a beautiful woman...Even if she's 83 and on oxygen.

"That's ok dear, I just wanted to take a look. I like shiny objects....Maybe you can price it for me as we go if you like? I love your dress. Are those doilies on the sleeve? You smell really good. Is that maple bacon?" I said smoothly

After rolling her eyes at my cheese ball attempt at a compliment, she pulled the box out anyway.

It was a small box packed full of goodness. Now, I've been doing this long enough where I don't need a loupe to identify a gold wedding ring when it's in my hand. I can't always get the karat right, but through wear, weight, the obvious mark visible to the naked eye indicating the karat, and that distinct ringing sound a gold ring makes when it's dropped on the floor or counter gives it away 90 percent of the time. The other 10 percent I over pay for gold plate..

If you look too hard at a piece for a long time through a loupe or showing deep interest in a item, the price can sometimes go up or they won't even sell it to you with the excuse

"I need to look that up." It's best not to reveal your hand. You don't want to make them feel like they are making a mistake by selling it to you.

I put a brooch pin, a gold ring, some scrap bent earrings, and a bracelet that was most likely Bakelite on the counter.

"Well, what do you think for these pieces?" I asked

She shuffled them around on the counter like she was playing Checkers and said,

"Twenty five"

There was still 10 or 12 pieces of junk costume but salable.

"What about the whole box?" I said

She dumped it out on the counter, more shuffling...thinking...shuffling..."Thirty five?" she said with uncertainty.

"Ok...I'll take it." I said.

Tip: (If you find yourself in this lucky situation, don't try to negotiate it down lower for the extra 6 or 8 bucks. Asking for a lower price on something that is already dirt cheap so you can boast about it later to other dealers and friends, especially if you know you're going to make 8 or 10 times more than what you paid for it is just cheap and tacky. Pay for it and leave before some other dealer or wannabe dealer armed with Pawn Shop Reality TV or Antiques Road Show "knowledge" walks up and chimes in on how cheap it is or ask to look at it before you've even paid for it to squash the deal.)

I've had this happen. "Squashing the deal." It's frustrating and rude. Usually motivated by jealousy or complete amateur ignorance. Anyone with common courtesy understands etiquette dictates you wait your turn in silence.

I have little patience for this dirty tactic..On the very rare occasion this imposition does happen,
I will sometimes stop what I'm doing, turn and face them squarely. Stare at them directly in the eye, blank face, emotionless and silent, ignoring comments, questions, and nervous laughter until it feels so awkward and uncomfortable, they eventually drift way defeated.

(Assuming he's not 6 foot 8 with facial and neck tattoos and looks like he's out on parole...)

Or you can ignore them entirely and talk loudly over them like they aren't even there. This is equally effective.

The box yielded a few pieces of 14kt gold, and a good lot of assorted rhinestone jewelry that brought over 300 after commissions.

This is a thrift store that I donate to all the time. I give way more than I take from this store so it's nice to get it back every now and then.
To sum it up:
Keep your eyes open. Pay attention to details. Be nice. Wait your turn and respect others. If you like what they bought or have interest in it, ask in the parking lot after they leave...Even better, get there first.

Trash Time. Angel Destroys Stained Glass Lamp Shade

2013-02-05T14:46:00.002-08:00

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Ep-afp_aB0

Reframed Auction Results

2013-01-30T22:38:00.000-08:00

In order to make it worth while to have an auction company pick up items I had to sell, I would sometimes include valuable items I really liked. Beautiful antiques with sentimental attachments. Pieces with fond memories and interesting stories behind them that I have had for many years. I would do this to pad the sale and distribute the cost evenly and ideally pushing the average lot price higher. ORRRR, I just needed extra cash that particular month so I hastily sold off some expensive shit that I never use and was just collecting dust.... It's one or the other.

When the sale was over and those "cherished" items bring way less than I thought they should have, I felt like punching myself in the face repeating "WHY did I sell that? WHY did I sell that!!?" That just happens sometimes. The crowd didn't want it, things fall out of fashion, one buyer wanted it really bad but no competing bidders were there to run up the bids. It's not the auctioneer's fault. That's just the business.

The good news was, thanks to all the other unusual and under appreciated lots, surprisingly the sale brought 30 percent or more than I was expecting. Pieces that should have sold for 350 brought 800. Some paintings that I offered out 2 years ago for 25 bucks brought 150. THAT is the double edged sword of the auction. Pretty sweet when duds explode.

Take the good with the bad. You will get burned on a small margin of the pieces you consign if you don't put reserves on them. You should know that going in. Reframe it and have a price range you will be happy with after the commission and other fees are deducted.

I personally don't put a reserve on anything unless the auction house suggest it. The piece is there to be sold to the highest bidder, not to be displayed and priced like it's in a shop window at the mall. It's unfair to the auction house and the buyer. Sell it. Take your lumps or show a profit and occasionally a potential massive profit. Either way, don't look back or whine about the pieces that should have brought more.

Remember, most of the world record prices in the art world were set at auction. It dictates the market and creates excitement.

If you have something to sell, be prepared to lose or jump for joyous joy joys when that ugly painting of the sailor smoking a pipe in your grandmother's hallway brings fifteen thousand dollars at auction. (You know, the painting you wanted to dump for cash at the church craft and junk sale last year but your husband talked you into letting a competent auctioneer look at it?) Don't be that person. Get an opinion.

Pop Some Tags

2013-01-25T10:21:00.004-08:00

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QK8mJJJvaes
It's the weekend dammit! Get out and pop some tags!!

10 Things You Should NOT Buy for Quick Resale

2013-01-19T18:54:00.000-08:00

I've been doing this a long time and while a lot has changed in the business, some things over the years haven't changed much at all. One of them is dealers buying and carrying stock that is hard to move. They will often buy things just because they are old or they think they are collectible. Maybe it was because it was very cheap and the shrewd seller told them it was valuable...(Fish on!!)... I still see these hard to sell items show up in shops and markets. Now I understand that they may have gotten them from an estate buy out or in box lots from an auction, but that doesn't mean they will sell fast and they take up valuable space in the booth.
The following are a few things I found very hard to sell

1) Platinum rim dishes from the 50's and 60's.
This stuff was elegant and lovely during it's day. That was then. Unless you have a mint condition complete set with little or no wear on it, generally, it doesn't sell quicklyThere is little to no value in micro flashed on platinum trim and most of what is out there is single pieces or partial sets. I still get calls from people trying to sell me their dishes. Unless it's a desirable name like Tiffany or it service for 12 with all the serving pieces, avoid it.

2) Norman Rockwell prints and calendars.
These items were produced in the millions. They are all over the internet. If you go to a completed listing of sales on EBay, you will see lots of red. Most of it is under 10 bucks and doesn't sell.

3) Bradford Exchange limited edition plates.
Sold in over priced shops and mail order to collectors who like their plates with Dorothy and Toto or a clown transferred on the front with a limited edition number on the back guaranteeing that their thoughtfully machine crafted heirloom plate is number 47,89999 out of ONLY 250,000,000,000,000,000. Well, maybe not, but they produced these by the boat load and I've seen dealers struggle to get five bucks for plates that originally sold for fifty. A recent search of completed sales on EBay of just plates there were 16,368. Most unsold. When items are abundant, buy CHEAP, I mean super cheap, even better, completely avoid them. I've passed on these plates for 50 cents.

4) Single pieces of silverplated common flatware.
Rogers Brothers. A name you will see on lots of silver plate. Common patterns and available in most thrift stores and antique malls can be picked up for around a quarter each. Serving pieces are a better buy if all of the plate is intact and boxed sets with service for 8 or more in clean condition is a better investment.

5) Silverplated miscellaneous tea service pieces.
Staying with the silver plated theme, try to avoid over paying for common single tea service pieces. An odd sugar, a plain teapot with wear through on the plate, a damaged footed tray, a less than fancy 1970s plated waste bowl. Unless it is Victorian, covered with grape vine, cupids, or a desirable pattern, most of the odd pieces don't sell quickly. Stick with the good patterns and the big wonderful impressive shiny silver plate.

6) Beanie Babies.
... Glorified dog toys.

7) Rocking chairs and single dining side chairs.
"Sittin on tha front porch huggin mah piller in Gramps ol' rocken churrrr"
Charming but the damn things just don't sell. I've had one rocking chair in 20 years that sold for 250 bucks only because it was a decent Mission oak chair. All of the other 1950s maple, turn of the century Shaker style, period Victorian platform rockers or Hitchcock rockers eventually went to auction just to get rid of them. Some dealers may disagree with me, and I know a couple, but even they wouldn't buy my rocking chairs for 20 bucks. Oh the irony

8) Fenton milk glass.
I like Fenton art glass. Great company still in business that produces decorative hand made glass for the masses. Some of the Crest lines are very popular with collectors. However, the milk glass doesn't sell very fast. There is tons of it out there. Rose bowls, candlesticks, console bowls and much more. If you like the milk glass, try to stick with bigger and harder to find pieces like epergnes and pitchers.

9) Movie cameras and projectors

8 mm movie cameras, movie projectors from the 50's and 60's are hard to resell. They are not quite decorative enough to put in your office or living room. They always look like they belong in the media center or school library. Don't confuse these common 8 mm cameras and movie projectors with the Mitchell movie cameras of the 30s and 40's. BIG difference in price and desirability.

10) Floor model sewing machines

Often seen in yard sales and thrift store over priced. The owners like to brag how their mother used it in the 1960s and it STILL WORKS! Doesn't matter. Most of them don't bring squat. They are a piece of heavy, cumbersome, ugly furniture disguised as a disguised sewing machine. The table top portable models like the Singer Feather weight sell for more money and much quicker than a Kenmore in a table. Even the vintage Singer treadle sewing machines with fancy open iron work base, tiger oak veneer flanked with drawers don't bring what they are worth and often less than a good table top machine.

December's Embers

2012-12-27T23:19:00.000-08:00

Everything runs in streaks in this business. What was once hot is now lukewarm. The end of the year review reveals the bad buys and what should I spend less on or completely avoid in the future. When you're flipping for a quick profit, price generally doesn't matter as much. Long term investing though is a different story.

I held on to Victorian furniture for years. I bought it at fair prices when the market was hot. I took it to shows and turned down great offers on some of it thinking the prices would continue to steadily rise. In fact, just the opposite happened. Over the past 12 years, the prices of average to better quality pieces have steadily declined. This isn't including the Blue Chip Victorian like Belter, Meeks, Herter Brothers or the best Horner . Even though they have dropped in price, those names seem to hold steady for the top tier pieces. Some of those offers I turned down I would now gladly take half of what I was originally presented.

Looking back, I should have sold off more of the better pieces 10 years ago when prices were better. Sometimes holding everything and waiting for the prices to rise is just wishful thinking. It might take decades. A better way of collecting furniture would have been diversification. Decorating in a eclectic style mixing high quality 50's-60's and 70's designer pieces with Victorian and Mission furniture would be a nice balance when selling. Mid Century Modern has only increased and still strong.

So now it's time for a fire sale on the Victorian pieces I have left. I'm letting them go. I might get burned on one or two single pieces, but sold as a lot, I should break even or show a small profit. If I had not waited so long to sell, I could have easily doubled the numbers I will probably get. We'll see.

Happy Holidays

2012-12-23T20:39:00.001-08:00

Merry Christmas

"Get me down. This is stupid"

Ivory

2012-12-20T18:20:00.001-08:00

Ivory. It's been used centuries for carvings, objects of art, jewelry, inlay on furniture, miniature paintings, boxes, the list is long. By definition, "The teeth and tusks of animals" or dentine. I'm specifically referring to elephant and walrus tusk. Whales tooth for Scrimshaw is usually just call "Ivory whale's tooth". (go figure)

This is for those who can't tell the difference between ivory, bone, and plastic. It's great when you're buying from someone who can't identify ivory, unless it's plastic priced like ivory. I still see it all the time "Real ivory carving" that is actually made from bone.

Elephant Ivory.

Can grow up to 8 feet long. Asian and African variety sometimes sold in tusk form all the way down to small rosette motif earrings. This is the easiest to spot due to the distinct cross hatching that is nearly impossible to reproduce. The overall appearance of antique ivory should have a warm caramel color over a light creamy yellow to yellow white. Cool to the touch and dense. Heavy in hand. The cross hatching diamond pattern should be visible on any carved piece. African ivory has darker lines. Asian ivory has the same pattern with lighter colored almost beige off white lines. The obvious subject matter, dragons, immortals, Netsukes, etc. would be an indication of origin.

Netsuke. (Pronounced "Net-skee")

Chinese and Japanese ivories are probably the most copied from very convincing resins and plastics. These will have no lines, have a greasy feel to them, the decoration is dark and sometimes they will even have mold lines. The color is even with no variation, often grey-beige.

I don't recommend doing this but I know some people just won't be able to sleep at night if they don't know what they own. So if you're still not sure if the piece is ivory or plastic, there is a test you can use on a inconspicuous area of the piece. If it's not a collectible piece of jewelry, CAREFULLY heat the tip of a needle and touch the piece where it's not visible. It will sink into plastic. It will not do anything if it's ivory.

19th Century ivory Okimono

Note: I watched a dealer push a pin completely through the face from the back of a reproduction plastic mask giving it three nostrils. Do at your own risk. It will ruin plastic.

Walrus:

The tusk of a walrus are often found carved as mortals, Nesukes, Okimono, Chinese figures etc. Very popular in the late 19th century. Surface of antique walrus ivory has a warm caramel color a little richer and slightly deeper than elephant's ivory with swirls and faint irregular lines unlike those of the elephants. If polished down it will be lighter cream shades. Cool to the touch and very dense and smooth.

Bone:

Easy to spot. Very porous, open grain, light white color. Light in weight Small black specks are usually visible to the naked eye. There is a lot of quickly and often crudely carved figures and jewelry sometimes sold as "Real ivory" by uniformed dealers. Buy with caution. Generally ivory will be more collectible but there are high quality beautiful contemporary works that can be sold legally.

Plastic:

This is a double edged sword. I have found real ivory necklaces in with junk jewelry. Lots of jewelry is out there that looks like ivory made from, celluloid, resin or plastic. Plastic beads will be even in color, light in weight, the cheap variety will even have mold lines. Celluloid made an attempt on some pieces to include the lines that ivory has but it is symmetrical even and thin. Dresser sets from the 20's used Celluloid that resembles ivory. Collectible in it's own right yet not convincing as ivory.

Celluloid dresser set 1920s -30's

I don't buy or trade in new ivory. I will buy pre ban antique ivory and sell it through good aution houses. Due to restrictions, be aware that sites like Ebay don't allow the sale of some ivory though there is always ivory for sale on ebay. I don't know how they determine what is deemed acceptable, but I have had two pieces removed that were clearly antique. I have also seen clever "Pachyderm" wording to get pieces under the radar. I'm not suggesting it.. jus sayin... If it is a good piece of antique ivory, it is best to sell through a quality auction house, your shop or locally and only trade in antique pieces. The new ivory looks much better on the elephant.

Cheap Can Opener

2012-12-16T14:08:00.000-08:00

Power failure, computer shut down mid sentence, *poof text vanished, two lengthy blogs gone, lost files, electric can opener broke, bought cheap replacement at dollar store, brand new dollar can opener makes wonderful holes but doesn't open anything. Should be called a can holer... Blogs coming soon.

Collecting Mistakes Part 2

2012-12-04T20:09:00.001-08:00

So you like vintage match books or American Art Pottery. Maybe your grandmother left you a Maxfield Parrish print or a French doll and decided you wanted to add to the few pieces to the ones you already have. You've developed an interest in some item and now you want to collect it.

Good! The first thing you should do as a new collector is get informed. Know what you're gathering and why. It's important to know what makes a piece valuable and collectible. There are books on nearly every collectible imaginable. A wealth of resources exist and many of them are free. Libraries, shows, collector groups, shops, dealers. There's no excuse to be uninformed. If you're reading this post, you have access to the singles greatest resource available to you, the internet. Google and EBay will answer 98 percent of your collecting questions. Get familiar with both.

Mistake : No Direction

The first mistake many new collectors tend to make is to buy anything that fits the criteria with no plan or direction. The initial excitement of finding a piece in a shop compels them to make a rash decisions. Emotionally based impulse purchases "Ohh!! I have one of those!"

Let's take Hummels for example. I've seen large collections of these. There are millions in existence and continued to be made to this day. Figurines, plates, postcards, plaques, Christmas collection, Limited Editions, ornaments, Collector clubs. It's a mind blowing list. A new collector could end up with a large variety of these things including common and even repaired pieces that will likely never show a return on their investment. When the shelves are full of dozens even hundreds of figurines, they realize the early part of what they own consist of common easy to find and hard to resell pieces that they paid too much for.

Remedy: Focus

Specialize in a specific area. STUDY and LEARN what makes a piece more valuable than others. Know why a Crown mark Umbrella Boy Hummel with blue umbrella is much better than the Last Bee mark Umbrella Boy Hummel with the Brown umbrella. Don't buy everything that has the name of your collectible on it. Magazines, Hummel calendars, plates that rarely appreciate...yuck!

Collect the best you can afford. Resist the urge to buy low end common items. Pass on the repaired pieces. If you must have them, buy only if they are dirt cheap (10 to 15 percent of the value) Think of repaired chipped or cracked pieces as a windshield for a car. Would you buy a windshield for your car if it had a crack in it? Even at 80 percent off? There are some exceptions to the rule with damages. Some rare high end glass, some Flow Blue and Majolica and scarce high end pottery. Pieces that are used for parts. There are always buyers who don't mind some damage if the price is right. Think cheap. I'm talking about common mass produced items. Roseville, McCoy, Clocks, wristwatches, prints etc. Build a quality collection from the start and it will only appreciate and be easier to sell in the future.

Mistake: Keeping Everything

It is easy to love what you collect, but don't let it overwhelm you with clutter. Keeping doubles, common items, worthless beyond repair pieces, and dust catching entry level stuff for marginal sentimental reasons is not the best way to build a collection. It takes the room that a quality piece could fill and it ties up your cash. Volume is good thing if it is quality.

Remedy: Cull

When I was 15, I took a course in black and white photography. I was impressed with one of the instructors ability to consistently produce perfect images. They were beautiful. His office walls were filled with incredible pictures, many with honorable mentions or awards from shows. His portfolio was page after page of perfection and professional quality photographs. He was very good. I asked him how long it took him to learn to do this.

"How many years did it take you to stop shooting bad pictures?"

"I still do it all the time" He quickly answered.

"These are all great though" I said.

He said something that stuck with me to this day.

"Never show average or bad pictures to anyone. EVER. Discard them immediately. Don't even keep them around. Throw them away. If all you keep are very best, your client will think that is all you can produce. The best."

Common sense right? As profoundly simple as that sounds, few people actually follow through with it. Fortunes and great names have been built on that very premise. Tiffany, Rolls Royce, Rolex, etc. you won't find a $99. diamond ring at Tiffany. You expect the best and that is all you will see there.

It can be applied in many areas of your life. Including your collection. Learn to cull. Don't fall in love with every piece of crap out there, and yes, there is a lot of crap to buy. Reject the inferior quality pieces and upgrade when you can. Sell off and trade up. You don't have to keep all of it JUST because it says "Roseville or Rookwood or Seth Thomas or Pez" on it, or what ever you may be collecting. Ford made the GT40 but they also made the Pinto. You get the idea. There's a finite amount of space for your collection. Fill it with quality even it it takes years to trade up. Keep only the best. Even if you're gathering common items, save the very best example of it. Crisp detail, rich or correct color, no damage. No apologies.

Finally, the main thing to remember is enjoy collecting. For some the hunt is the most rewarding part. That is what it is really all about if monetary return is not your priority. Buy smart, and buy what you like. Have FUN doing it. If you can do both, even better.

Collecting Mistakes. Part 1

2012-11-25T11:43:00.000-08:00

First let me say, you should always collect what you truly enjoy and like, after all, you have to live with it every day.

Conversely, I don't think that buying what you like or love is always the best advice if you ever want to pass it on as a family heirloom or sell it some day as an investment. Let's be real here, not everyone has the same refined good taste you may or may not have. Eventually you might have to part with your six hundred assorted antique flat irons and find your family says "Thanks but I'll just take one or two" or worse you need some cash quickly. Try to get liquid with the three hundred fifty seven Beanie Babies you over paid for at the peak of the market. Be prepared to cry or rip their heads off with your teeth when you find out most of them are only good for dog toys when sold 4 for 1.00.

You hear it all the time on segments of TV morning news or collector shows, magazines etc. "Buy what you love". But what if you like manhole covers, balls of old yarn, boring clear common Mason jars, red pencils, or rail road spikes?

If the only criteria for your collection is "I WUV it"! and you aren't concerned with value, investment potential, resale, or desirability then yes, buy what you love. That's what it all about...(Sorta)

If you have the love for the item, the drive and commitment to build a quality collection, and most importantly, buy smart, you can also end up with a nice little nest egg when done properly without filling your house with hard to sell trash.

I can't tell you how many times I've received calls over the years from collectors ready to part with their accumulations. Always exciting but equally disappointing sometimes.

I went to a house in Citrus County in the mid 1990's. She lived a few blocks away from a large flea market which she attended regularly buying items. Over three decades she managed to build a collection that filled her modest home.

"I have a house full of stuff I need to get rid of" she told me over the phone.

Normally, when I enter a house it's natural for me to look at the objects for sale along with the stuff that isn't for sale. I will immediately spot the things that I'm interested in, taking mental notes and formulating offers in my head. If you're an antique dealer, you know what I'm talking about. You're initially drawn to the items you want to buy spotting the "gems" straight away.

Upon arrival at her house, I was shock at the immense volume crammed in it. Every wall had cabinets or home made shelves built on them. One wall had floor to ceiling shelves filled with nothing but reproduction cobalt blue glass with a few old pieces mixed in. There were, dolls, cracked crocks, clock parts, reproduction advertising trays, plastic toys from the 1980's, canning jars with no lids, faded prints, cheap fishing poles, lamp bases with no shades..It was sensory over load. Too much to take in at one time.

In this house packed with stuff, there was nothing, just nothing jumping out at me. The closer I looked at her stuff, the more I realized most of it was junk. A lot of it damaged. Some of it still had faded tags. ".25 cents, $2.00." Chipped glass, reproduction carnival glass from the 1970s, clocks with replaced quartz movements, common platinum rimmed plates from the 50's, partial sets of dishes, naked Barbie dolls, stacks of sheet music... Depressing and coated in dust. I just wanted to leave... It looked like the tail end of a yard sale on a Sunday with all the leftovers. Clearly the woman put a lot of time, cash and years of effort gathering this stuff. Thousands of pieces, but none of what I saw had resale value with out apologizing for it, even at flea market prices. I saw WORK! Lots of work with minimal returns for the amount of time involved cleaning and selling it.

From talking with her I found out she tried to stick with a 5 dollar maximum spending limit. It's a shame, but unless the house was already picked over by another dealer, there was little value in her "collection". She wanted to sell all of it as a lot of course.

"Make me an offer an take it all"! She said.

Being cordial I found a few things that I made an offer on hoping she would refuse. I told her the collection was too big for me to handle and referred a local guy. I really didn't want any part of it.

On the other side of that coin, I've gone into houses and even mobile homes and found collections that got my heart literally pounding in disbelief...Sometimes the contents were worth more than the homes they were kept in.

One of the best calls I've ever been on was in a double wide trailer in a low income area. The lady said she had some things "I would like"... She wasn't kidding.

The outside of her run down mobile home was a hidden partially by two very large arborvitae bushes. It needed paint and landscape work to clear the overgrown bushes I had to duck under just to get to the half covered sidewalk scattered with rusty lawn mower parts and barrels, and plastic flower pots tipped on their side.

I knocked on the door and could hear the shuffling of what sounded like slippers on a sandy linoleum floor come to a halt.

"Yes?" replied a small voice behind the thin aluminum trailer home door .

"Hi, it's Bill. You called me about some items you had for sale."

The door slowly opened and there stood a frail lady, maybe in her late seventies, pale and slightly hunched over, wearing layers of clothing in the middle of the Summer with long grey hair tied back. She squinted as if to look at my shoes, smiled and said,

"Come in"

Inside was a dingy yellow time capsule. A faded haze of dust, aged vinyl, and tobacco colored film indicative of neglected old trailers. Everything looked to be what it was originally sold with in the late 1960s including the brown wood panelling and tan curtains with tea pot motif sagging in the window.

First thing I noticed was a, completely out of place, large mahogany drop front secretary with a shell carving on the drop front lid. Over that hung a well done Impressionist style painting of a beach scene flanked by bronze French torchieres. "Wow" I thought.

She was leading me to the front of the trailer where the "good stuff" was kept. I was so preoccupied with the incredible stuff on the walls as I followed, I almost plowed into her from behind as she shuffled along.

At the end of the hallway there was a sheet that covered a doorway. When she pulled back the dirty sheet to the side, the light from the large bay window that dominated the wall illuminated the room revealing no less than 10 assorted reverse painted and leaded glass lamps. I couldn't believe my eyes. It was like I was entering Oz...

"This can't be....Really? In HERE?" I thought to myself.

One of the lamps had a peacock reverse painted on the inside, she had the palm tree Handel lamp I recognized immediately with the correct base. I was stunned. There was silver overlay vases on footed trays, a table with 5 or 6 mesh hand bags from the 1920s. These are the calls we all dream about as dealers. Years of fresh, untouched merchandise, hidden away by in a run down home for sale by the original owner or family. I was keeping cool with my "Meh... yeah this stuff is ok I guess...I've seen better though" attitude.

While on the inside I was really thinking "HOLY SHIT! HOLY SHIT! YESSSSS!!" I wanted to run out in the parking lot and do back flips. The more I looked the more excited I got. Period furniture, high end art glass, Steuben, Loetz, Belleek tea service, sterling silver trinkets, Handel lamps, Tiffany silver, jewelry and paintings. Angled in the corner, was the very best French vitrine (scenic painted curio cabinet) I've ever seen. Big wide, bombe, ormolu mounts, FILLED with fairy lamps, miniature bronzes, carved ivory, painted plaques and jewelry, big allegorical scenic shell cameos in fitted cases, the kind of quality I've only seen in magazines and auction catalogs at the time. The lamps were all on knock out period furniture or French painted tables.

I realized I wasn't saying very much to her in my state of awe as she sat there, grinning at me, in the only chair that wasn't covered with stuff. I looked at the table next her "Mahogany?" I blurted out as I inspected it closer.

"That's a Spider leg table" she said pointing at it with a thin, white, bent finger.

"What kind of price are you looking for on that? I asked.

"Six fifty" She immediately replied.

I like it when a seller knows exactly what they want for their stuff. Negotiating a price is not as romantic and fun as these reality shows make it seem. It's a daunting and sometimes stressful task. A part of the business that's expected though not always necessary. You can easily insult someone if you cut the price too low on their objects of affection. If I did counter offer it was usually followed with an explanation.

The tabled was nice, but the most I've ever seen them priced was around 300.

"How about the palm tree lamp?"

"$2500" she said.

"What did you want for the curio cabinet?" I inquired

"I'll take five thousand"

...Five grand.."ugh" That's when a sinking feeling began in me. The prices were spot on retail and some much more. The lady was sharp and she knew what she was doing. I began to think she had no real intention of letting anything go at prices where I could make something on them. These were show and shop prices so now I was more interested in the story behind the glory. How she acquired all this stuff and why she hadn't sold it off to raise her standards of living just a little.

It was already apparent the women collected the best she could afford and had an eye for quality. Turns out the meat of the collection was inherited. Her mother at one time bought and sold antiques. That's the best way to learn. See it. Live with it. She followed in her mother's foot steps and continued adding to it over the years. She even asked ME if I had items to sell. I also found out I wasn't the only dealer that had been there. There were many over the course of years and they left with little to nothing.

In the end, I did manage to buy a few small pieces. One was the Belleek Nautilus shell on coral, a Tiffany sterling punch ladle, a large Imari bowl on a stand and other choice perfume bottles. I kept in contact with her for many years buying a piece here and there. She didn’t like selling it, but loved to show it off.

If it's not yet obvious to you what I am getting at between the two calls, that same desire and passion you feel about your collecting should be just as exciting to the dealers and buyers you're showing it to when you go to sell it. Excitement. Passion. Interest. They should want to own it and not feel like they are taking on a ton of work to show a decent profit. There are many buyers for this level of quality. At the risk of getting too lengthy here, I'll go over some ways to build a good collection in a part 2 soon to follow.

Weekly Buy Pass $20.00

2012-11-15T17:49:00.000-08:00

Each week I will feature a quick list of items in a fixed price range to buy or pass on. This is strictly a general guide that I use to make a prompt decision while I'm out buying. It's not set in stone... it is something that works for me. Some of you may buy selected items that I marked as "PASS". If you have a shop to stock and don't mind holding merchandise for a long time, you could buy the "PASS" items to keep shelves full or you may have a client list that is searching for a specific pattern or piece to add to their collection. This list is for a quick turn around. To buy profitable pieces for a short term sales or a "flip".

Everyone has 20 bucks. Let's go spend it...or not.

More CAMERAS! Twenty dollars is a hard number to work with. Generally vintage cameras are worth less than twenty or waaaaay more. Not much grey area. Though there's big profits on the under priced mistakes being sold. Here's a few to look for.

Nikon F2 Photomic 35mm Professional

A true 1970s classic. Nikon produced a broad range of high quality 35mm SLR cameras. 20 bucks is super cheap for this model in clean condition. This is one that will still bring $150+ depending on condition. Always check the lens for spots and the shutter speed for smooth and accurate operation. The best way to do this is set it on 1 second. Click the shutter and listen to the action. The sound it makes should take exactly one second. No more, no less. Some older cameras will get stuck for 1 1/2 to 2 or even 3 seconds in that mode. This will affect value. Also don't overlook wear to high spots. These were popular field cameras for the professional and many of them will show bag wear and rubs. Original lens caps and cleaning kits are good signs to see in the bag. The owner cared for it.

Pentax K-1000 w/ after market lens

Great starter camera. It came with all the basic features necessary that other entry level 35 mm SLR's of the day had to produce professional looking images in the right hands. However, if the lens is replaced with a cheaper version of the original 50 mm, has excessive wear and shows its age, this drops the value significantly. They can be bought on Ebay from $6.00 to $30. in this condition. Put your money into something else.

Graflex Press Cameras

Worth $100-$250, (model specific) in good clean condition $500+ if minty with all the books, accessories, plates and original case. Why is it in with the "$20 Buy" items you ask? If they were left in grandpa's estate to the kids, sometimes they don't even know what it is or it just looks like an old Polaroid to them when closed. If they don't know how to open it, often times it's donated or dumped at estate sales. I found 2 of these cameras within 4 months of each other both closed and under 20 bucks. One looked like an attempt was made to open it with a screw driver, the other was in a box of tools. The inside is usually well preserved. The bellows should be free from mold rips and tears and the track should slide and lock smoothly. Even if you don't use this camera, it looks cool open and displayed in a library or office.

Kodak 1920s-30s Folding

Eastman Kodak vintage folding cameras. Although they look neat and add an air of nostalgia and history to a room, no one uses these pieces of crap. You can't find film for them, and if you did, they take terrible grainy images and are really only good for decoration. Okay..A little harsh on our little Kodak folding camera, but for some reason, new dealers, and some uniformed shops regularly over price these common cameras. If it's mint condition, you can pay 5 bucks...and sell it for 6. or 10. It' WON'T bring $125. as I have seen these priced sometimes. It just won't. With that said, there are some harder to find accordion cameras with RED bellows that sell for $40-$200. Buy those.

Vintage Wood Cameras 1880- 1910

Wood Studio cameras by Kodak and other makers are highly collectible even if they are slightly battered. They don't necessarily need to be complete to fetch strong prices due to the cross over appeal to decorators for large format cameras with period wood tripods. Unlikely the large plate models to be found in the twenty dollar range but sometimes smaller versions turn up found dirty, unappreciated and neglected in a box at yard sales.

Brownie Box Cameras

No...Just say no...

Collectible Cameras 1930s-80s

2012-11-11T23:03:00.001-08:00

This is a broad subject and impossible to cover in a few paragraphs. I'm not talking about digital cameras, but instead the common SLR (Single Lens Reflex) 35MM cameras made between 1920-1985. Though most people consider these cameras obsolete, some are still very collectible and can command thousands of dollars.

Most of what you'll come across at sales are the 1970s -1980s cameras like Canon, Pentax, Minolta, and Olympus. Great names in their day but as a rule, most of the common entry level bodies with 50MM lenses sell for under $50. on the secondary market.

For example, the Pentax K-1000 35MM in good clean working order can be bought online between 20.00 and 50.00 I see them over priced in shops, with some extra accessories, for 150.00 and more. They are also still sitting there collecting dust when I go back 2 months later. The Minolta, Canon, and Pentax cameras that are functioning properly with clear lenses should be bought for resale 10 bucks or less...Really. Some people think a lot of these cameras and would be insulted by an offer of ten bucks but the reality is, they just don't bring much anymore.

Below are a few examples of $10 to $50. (Camera, case and lens only)

Try not to pay more than $5 or $10 for any of these in clean working condition. If they have ANY issues, pass on them unless they come with a bag full of lenses and filters. Market not strong on these.

Pentax K 1000 $10 $50 .

Yashica FX-2 $10-$50

Minolta SR t 101 $20 $50

Olympus OM-10 this one sold for $6.99 with free shipping

Canon AE-1 $5-$30

Now for the opposite end of the spectrum. Say "BIG cheese!"

Most of the better name in photographic equipment came out of Germany. The important name not to be confused or compared with the cameras above is Leica. Some of the rare models still bring 10,000 to 18,000 in minty condition. There are even confirmed sales over 20,000 for the Leica 1 A Anastigmat f3 of which there are only 150 in existence.

The main two rules that apply here are:

1. Like new to excellent condition on common cameras.

2. Rare cameras should be acquired regardless of condition though poor and damaged will factor into the pricing. Rare Leica models have seen their values increase disproportionately to common ones.

Things to look for: That little hockey stick shaped piece of metal on the left side of the lens when you're facing the camera. If you're lucky enough to find one of these at a garage sale and the owner recites the story of how much grandpa admired it because his dad gave it to him when he was a kid...Home run! "That's been in my family since the 1930's"

The early cameras had a simple rectangular streamline bodies with 50mm lenses. If you do pick up one of these rare models, don't rush to dump it on Ebay. Do your research. Serial numbers and lenses make a world of difference in the price. They are in such demand there are copies of rare cameras out there. Contact a professional and get at least two opinions. Dealers will show immediate interest and may offer a high price. Don't be tempted by the first offer. It's amazing what collectors will sometimes offer beyond book value.

Below are a few examples of Leica:

Leica 111B $900.

Leitz 3.5mm F/3.5 Summaron M Leica $350.

Leica 1 A Elmar Fu 50MM 1926-30 $1500 - $4500

Leica 1 (B) Compur with Elmar $3000-$7000

Leica 111g 1956-60 $800-$2200 Leica

As stated condition is everything. Collectors and dealers often first ask if the lenses have mold in them. This is a problem with all older cameras if stored in area of extreme temperature swings. Look for spots on the inside on the lens when back lit. If sandwiched between the lens, it will have to be professionally corrected.

Weekly Buy Pass $5.00

2012-11-03T00:03:00.001-07:00

Five bucks? Get over here, let's go!

Waterford Cut Glass Stems (singles)

Impressive on any table when set with fine china. This elegant crystal is highly collectible and is still being made today. There are a lot of good names in cut glass and crystal but I found Waterford to be the easiest to resell. There are lots of collectors for it. They make high quality hand cut crystal in lots of patterns and forms including lighting. It's unlikely you'll find Waterford glassware for 5 bucks IF the owner knows what they have. The green and gold foil or paper label is usually missing. With that said, I still find it all the time in thrift stores because the mark is hard to read or even find sometimes. Bowls, and single stems can be bought between 2-5 bucks. The common ship's decanter can be found unidentified for 20 bucks. They bring 60 to 75 on EBay. Stems, depending on pattern, 10-60 each. I have found several lamps in thrift shops that were over looked as just an old lamp. Look for the acid etched mark on the bottom and sides. They are often hard to find. Damaged stems are worthless if cracked or deep chips. Tiny rim nicks can be polished out if bought cheaply enough. Like sterling flatware and china, Waterford is collected by pattern. Identify the pattern online or in books before you sell it. If the bottom vases are stained a milky color have lime or water stains in them, stay away. It is next to impossible to remove and devalues the piece by 80 percent.

Lenox Etched Stem

Here's a case of a known brand that produces quality porcelain and crystal, but the desirability is not the same as Waterford. Lenox makes a fine product and their vintage porcelain is very collectible, but for me, I found the crystal very hard to sell. It's just not held to the same attention to detail and high standards as Waterford. Pass on it

Murano Art Glass Birds

Hand made art glass from the island of Murano Italy. Another item you probably won't find too many times for 5 bucks. Even people who don't collect Murano glass can appreciate the beauty in these hand made colorful pieces. They are out there though. I still find them at sales and on the shelves at thrift stores for 5 to 8 dollars. The reason is the Chinese copies that have flooded the market for the past 10 years. Some people can't tell the difference and price Murano as Chinese import. The Murano glass had paper labels that often washed off or were removed. Look for quality. Murano glass has richer deeper more vibrant colors. True reds and deep blues, crystal clear glass with copper or gold fleck finished with a neatly hand polished base.

Chinese Import Art Glass

Some of it is pretty good and could fool you into believing it's Murano, but most of it is cheap tasteless rip offs that contain high lead content. Wash your hands after handling and never use a art glass birds to eat with.. (jus sayin). These are pretty easy to spot once you know what to look for. Muted lackluster and sometimes murky colors. Machine ground bottoms, tool marks on beaks and tails. In general out of proportion and clunky. Avoid this junk. It's sent over by the boat load daily and can be bought at any Ross, Wal-Mart, or flea market.

Pattern Glass

Antique pattern glass is somewhat collectible. It was made in thousands of patterns. Snail, Alaska, Arched Fleur-De-Lis Basket weave. Too many patterns to name. It has crisp molding and some are whimsical Stags and Butterflies. I started out learning Depression glass and Pattern glass names and patterns. What I found was no matter what the book said regarding value of pattern glass, I was lucky to get 30 percent of the book price. I don't know where they came up with the prices but it was consistently high. So I went through the guides and focused on the high value pieces. Even then there wasn't much of a market for it. But it did eventually sell. Why am I telling you this bad news in the "Buy" section you ask? Abundance. I still see it on shelves mislabeled. It's 100 years old and it's marked as decorative plate or pitcher. It's a worthy pursuit to take some time and learn the high value pieces. Look for tureens, compotes, pitchers and covered syrups. Those are still sought after. Condition is everything. Chips and cracks should be avoided. Same thing with common pieces like salad and dinner plates that have lots of wear.

Pressed Glass

Cut glass wannabe. Large punch bowls with all the cups are the only thing I consider in pressed. It was never easy to sell. It's boring utilitarian glassware trying to look like something it's not. Buy it only if you're going to use it. Hard to move.

Desirable Furniture for Fast Resale

2012-10-27T08:56:00.001-07:00

When I first started in the antiques and junk business, I drove a station wagon. Not exactly the best mode of transportation for hauling junk but it worked. Most of my inventory was "smalls". Pottery, glassware, jewelry, prints and anything that would fit into plastic totes. I eventually made the transition from flea markets to the bigger antique markets in Atlanta. It was a real eye opener. Lots of furniture and decorator items. Needless to say there is only so much furniture you can pack into a Station Wagon. That didn't stop me from trying to jam as much wood in it and on it as I could.

Early on I discovered it wasn't necessary to buy large pieces to make quick profits. Small pieces of furniture, that are easy to carry, have good design and eye appeal is the key to high turn over. Below is a list of a few forms that are timeless and generally easy to sell.

French Arm Chairs.

Carved scrolling frames with cabriole legs, turned up feet and floral carved crest are great selling items. Decorators love to use them as accents in bedrooms, offices, dens and living rooms. They can be sold in singles or pairs. Neutral colored upholstery and needlepoint sell the best. As with all chairs, make sure they are not loose or poorly repaired.

Console Tables

Traditional styles Chippendale, French, Art Deco, Sheraton, or Victorian it doesn't matter. These tables are easy sells. They can be used in foyers, hallways, open walls with a painting or mirror hanging over it, behind sofas and even offices.

Demilune Consoles Stands and Cabinets

The compact size, function and decorative impact of these pieces keeps them in demand. The French and Italian inlaid tables always sold quickly for me. Check marble for repairs and proper fit. Lots of reproductions.

French and Victorian Footstools

These things are like cat nip to a cat. The lady dealers with shops (and good taste of course) loved them. I can't remember a time I had to bring one of these back from a show. They would always sell the first day. The thing to learn here is quality. There are lots of footstools out there. Some of them you can't give away. The ones you want to buy are the French carved Victorian footstools made between 1890-1920 from walnut or fruitwood. The kind with the curves and crisp carvings of flowers on the skirt and cabriole legs. If they are oval and have needlepoint or petit point, even better. Dealers and decorators eat them up.

Plant Stands

Again, another piece of small furniture that is easy to place in a room. Carved columns, Chinese rosewood stands with pierced shirts, ball and claw feet, barley twist stands or simple Regency stand with graceful tapering legs all sold well. They can be used to display vases, sculpture or plants.

Nesting Tables.

Nesting tables are great for display. They are versatile and come in lots of different styles. Good sellers. Check legs for damage.

These were my few of my best selling items at shows and auctions. Factors in pricing are dictaded by quality, rarity, condition and age. This post is only to make you familiar with forms. Items that sell well as opposed to tying up cash in pieces that don't sell as quickly

Weekly BUY PASS $50.00

2012-10-23T18:53:00.001-07:00

Fifty bucks? C'mon..That's enough.

Wood Carved German Novelty Clock with moving eyes.

These collectible clocks were produced from the 1920s - 1940's and came in a variety of choices. Dogs sitting and standing, cats, a genie and a very rare scull. (Big $$ if you find the scull) Some are wood and some are composition. The eyes rotate. One indicating the hours, the other minutes. I've seen them listed as Oswald and Black Forest. $50.00 is actually cheap for these clocks. You can pay $100 and still make money. They sell between $150-$250 for the common dogs, $300 to $400 for the unusual ones. The wood clocks seem to be more desirable. Make sure they work and are intact and free from damage. Minor chips and light wear to finish is acceptable.

Wide Eyed Dog Wooden Doddo Clock, Tezuka, Japan, 1950's

These are a 1950s quickly carved wood dog clock with a cheap time piece inserted in the gut. Cute and somewhat collectible, but not the same caliber. Not worth 50 bucks for resale. That’s about what they will bring on a good day. $40. to $50.

Cast Iron Boxer Doorstop

The dog doorstop is a common site in antique shops and malls. Most of them are Boston Terriers made by Hubley. The Boxer however, is less common and if it isn't beat to death, cracked or repainted, they are easily worth $50.00 or more. The old doorstops have a good amount of scuff and flakes to the paint around the high spots. Ears feet, etc. worth $175-$225. If it has excellent paint with a nice patina and casting, these sell between $350.-$550. Absence of wear and poor casting is a good indication it's a reproduction. Watch for them, they are easy to spot.

Cast Iron Boston Terrier Doorstop (Standing)

There are a lot of this particular doorstop on the market. (The standing variety) This one should be passed on unless it's a 9 out of a 10. Just too many. Don't confuse this with the puppy of the same breed. ($200-$400)

(Note: I'm using the common dog doorstops as examples. Hubley made a large variety of doorstops and values range from $25 up to $4000+ and even more for the very rare. The Popeye just sold for $3300. The same Hubley 9-inch cast-iron Popeye figure in impeccable condition brought 17,250 at Bertoia's Auction in 2008. If you're interested in this area of collecting, there are several good books on the subject you should own)

Terriers by Marguerite Kirmse, Etchings

Keeping with the dog theme, etchings by Marguerite Kirmse can sometimes be found very cheap because her signature can be difficult to read making it hard to research for a novice dealer. Once you've seen it though, you never forget it. Her whimsical sentimental depictions of Terriers sell between $200-$400. So $50.00 is a bargain bargain! I have found them in antique malls marked "Dog Etching" for $25. to 75. Watch for foxing (mold spots) and fading. Original frame is a bonus.

Dogs Playing Poker Print

Tacky... A bad idea at any price.

Cut Your Losses

2012-10-22T22:16:00.001-07:00

Taking a hit on a piece you over paid for. Many dealers refuse to do it. Losing money is never an easy thing to do but sometimes you have to.

Maybe you were at an antique auction eyeing that unusual side table you thought might be a scarce Herter Brothers piece possibly commissioned for some millionaire in the 1870's. It was so beautiful surrounded by all the other junk at the sale. It looked like it was out of place. You had to have it.

It was a country sale with rows of trashy box lots lining blue tarps on the floor, low end china, chipped crocks, pine tables and rocking chairs. There's a good chance your piece is the sleeper of the sale. You thought you could pick up for two or three hundred bucks. Patiently you wait for your lot to come across the block just hoping no one else would notice it. Finally, the auctioneer gets to the table... He calls it a
"Nice nice fancy fancy ol table"

You fire off the first 25.00 bid. A few other bids quickly drive it up to 125.00 where it stalls on your bid of 125. You almost have it in your grasp...

"One twenty five, one twenny five, do I have one fifty...One fiddy... One fiddy... One fiddy? Last call...."

"YEP! *cough" A raspy voice cries out from the crowd.

You look to your left and it's an unlikely bidder sitting 4 seats down from you. The local woman Bertha Lubbs. Owner of Bertha's Burlap Boutique. Maker of fine hand made jackets, hats, dresses and undergarments fashioned from old burlap sacks.

"Why is SHE bidding on MY table!?? ...She doesn't even know the meaning of the word antique" you reassure yourself in disgust.

"I can't let that know nothing burlap peddling hack out bid ME!" You raise the bid to $200,

"I have two hunner, two hunner, now.... two fiddy, two fiddy, two fiddy" chants auctioneer.

"YEP! *cough *cough" barks the burlap queen.

"Ugh!....GAME ON!" You thought to yourself..."THREE HUNDRED!!" You yelled out glaring back at Burlap bag lady.

"Tree fiddy, tree fiddy, tree fiddy"

"YEP!! *cough "$400, "YEP!!" $450, "YEP! *cough *cough" $500, "YEP!!" $550!! YEP!!

"Six hundred?,,,,Six hunnerr? Anyone at six huuuunnnner....?" The auctioneer calls....
"SOLD!"
Slamming the hammer down at $550 plus your 10 percent buyer's premium you just paid $605. for a table you were only going to pay $300 for. But "So what" you thought "At least bag lady didn't get it."

Bertha could only shake her head in disappointment as she stepped outside to mow down another Marlboro "*cough * cough."

You reveled in your win... That is until you loaded the beast into your van and realized it was made from an old bar stool, piano legs and vintage lamp parts as it fell apart in your hands every time you moved it.

Maybe the Burlap queen doesn't exist, but over paying for pretty junk at auctions and sales is not uncommon. I've seen similar scenarios. It's easy to get carried away if you don't preview the sale and bid out of spite or from the heart.

It only gets worse when you get it home and notice how out of proportion and down right gaudy and ugly it is.

So now what? You just over paid for a bench made pig worth about two hundred bucks.

Do you try to get your money back? Probably won't happen soon. Could take years for that.

Do you offer it to Bertha? Of course not. Pride prevents you from doing that and she bought the following table lot for 75 bucks to display her burlap on.

Do you keep in your house telling everyone that inquires about it that

"Oh I just liked it and had a spot for it"?

Safe, but, then that damn table would remind you every day what a donkey you were at that auction.

Ultimately you have to accept the fact you have 600 bucks tied up in it. By keeping the table in the flip business, it will only cost you more money the longer you have it.

From a flip business perspective, the best thing to do is cut your losses. Dump it at a loss after you've tried selling it a couple times. Sell it for what ever someone is willing to offer and don't look back. (I have taken 50 percent losses on some pieces within days of buying a mistake just to keep the money working.) Reinvest the money you made and keep tuning it over. You'll make your money back in a few flips.

Another less painful way to sell it is by auctioning it again. Lumping it together with other dogs and dead inventory that are not moving will distribute the loss out evenly and could be profitable as an overall price. (When you add up the cost of everything you're giving to the auction to sell for you, including the ugly table, there can be a profit at the end if you bought most of it right. Even after commission.)

The trick is to not keep your cash tied up. Keep buying and selling. If you paid too much for a lamp, table or painting, unload it, learn from it and move on to the next buy.

Trash Time

2012-10-21T20:17:00.004-07:00

You can't sell everything...