Kathy and Brian - The Wandering Warners

Goan Strollin' To The Indian Ocean

2012-02-12T09:55:00.000-08:00

On our second full day in Goa we wandered from Vivenda dos Palhacos down to the beach, a 20-minute walk.

We passed some beautiful houses along the way.

And some modest dwellings as well. It looks and feels very much like the Caribbean or Mexico. Of course, the Portuguese-style architecture and even some of the names contribute to that along with those palm trees.

And healthy signs of construction - note the bamboo scaffolding and supports.

We were struck by the irony of this sign.

And the oddly colorful trash providing gourmet fare for the peaceful porcines.

And finally, a glorious beach on a beautiful day. More about our time at the beach to follow...

As we wandered back we saw an even more intriguing sign. Had it advertised any quick cures for Delhi Belly we might have followed up.

We felt quite comfortable wandering along the roads here, the only place in India we did.

And finally back at the "House of Clowns", another good Trip Advisor find that proved to be a very pleasant place to stay.

Domestic First Class Air Travel: An Oxymoron?

2012-02-11T17:11:00.000-08:00

As United seems apparently bent toward moving everything toward a cash-trumps-all policy rather than rewarding regular customers with upgrades - that's an understandable business decision and good luck to them - perhaps it's time for some pro-active sour grapes.

One good step is to read - savor - a travel article in the New York Times titled Whatever Happened to First Class?

Nah, you're not missing that much as you squeeze into the back row right in front of the lavs.

Market Wanderings In Panjim Goa

2012-02-11T06:44:00.000-08:00

After lunch, our friendly guide cheerfully escorted us through a couple of open markets. Although they were starting to shut down for the day, it was still interesting.

Even though the surroundings were simple, the seafood was laid out artistically, with an eye to presentation.

These two ladies kindly agreed to have their photos taken.

In fact, they invited another friend into the next photo.

From there it was a short stroll to the fruit-and-vegetable market, which looks as abundant as those we've visited in many other places.

Behold! If only we could remember what the guide told us about it. It looks like a ridge gourd, also known as Gosalem, good for stir-fry, and, when dried, luffa, the source of the luffa sponge. How about that?

Lunch In Panjim Goa: Viva Panjim

2012-02-10T07:58:00.000-08:00

Our guide steered us to Viva Panjim for lunch. Who are we to argue with Trip Advisor, Fodor's, and the New York Times?

Excellent food and service at bargain prices.

Haley is nursing her Delhi Belly back at the hotel today, Kathy is struggling onward despite it, and Brian is in the early stages of it. We know, therefore, that we can't blame Viva Panjim for our afflictions, and it's a joint we'd happily enjoy again another time.

Goa: Panjim Wanderings

2012-02-10T07:47:00.000-08:00

On our way to lunch our guide takes us on a stroll through a neighborhood of Panjim that reveals the Portuguese influence and reminds us again of Goa's uniqueness within India.

A Quick Tour Of Goa

2012-02-10T07:36:00.000-08:00

Goa is the smallest Indian state by size and the fourth smallest by population. It is also by far the richest state in India. That was obvious to us as we toured with an experienced guide on our first full day there.

Goa was a Portuguese colony from the 1500s right up to 1961, and more than 26% of its residents are Catholics - lots of churches to see here. We started our tour with a hilltop view of several of them below.

That photo was taken from another church that's in the process of restoration.

An interesting detail: Clam shells were used to construct windows, giving a translucent effect to the interior of the church.

As the morning progressed we got a look at some larger churches.

And we got to view the "relics" of Saint Francis Xavier, who died in 1522 - oh goody...

Between that and a gruesome crucifix, we're looking forward to being back out in the sunshine.

But first, just one more church just across the way...

Our guide tells us there's no amplification allowed in this church, due to worries it might cause that sagging balcony to collapse. We immediately use our "inside voices" and walk on tiptoes...

These gravestones are in the middle of the church. Our guide says that as people walk over these shallow graves the belief was that the evil spirits disappear. The skull and crossbones is to warn people to stay away from the graves of those who died from cholera.

Just one last church...

It's almost lunchtime.

Goa Comings And Goings

2012-02-09T08:04:00.000-08:00

After overnighting at the Hilton Janakpuri, and despite the last-minute complication of discovering Kathy's wallet had been stolen, the five of us managed to make it to DEL in reasonable time to catch our Jet Airways flight to Goa, connecting through Mumbai (BOM).

We had previously flown Jet from Delhi to Jaipur, and would return to DEL in a few days. Jet was our third choice after Air India and Kingfisher. However, since both of those airlines were experiencing significant labor problems to the point of canceling flights, we were quite happy we chose Jet and would again. Competitive prices, decent service, free meals on the longer flights, and clean and (reasonably) comfortable planes added up to good travel experiences. All in all, the product puts US domestic carriers to shame.

On the way, we had to re-clear security at BOM and that was quite unpleasant, especially as we were still highly concerned (okay, a bit traumatized) at the theft of Kathy's wallet. At Indian security check points, men and women go into separate lines and women are searched in privacy in little curtained booths. Accordingly, the ladies in particular can't keep an eye on their belongings as they travel on the conveyor belt through the X-Ray.

Before they could be searched, Elly and Haley were made to return to the Jet counter at some distance away as the boarding passes they presented were not deemed acceptable to the security employees until they were stamped by Jet employees.

They also demanded new baggage tags (which they stamp) and an employee dramtically ripped the tag off our computer/electronics bag and placed it on the floor, leaving Brian wondering if he would stand there all day. Eventually the employee simply placed a new tag on the bag and stamped it, Ellyn and Haley returned with the passes newly stamped by a bored employee who hadn't bothered to look at them, and we were off to Goa. What a relief to find out on our return that we simply walked from one plane to another and didn't have to go through all this again. That was the one check point in all of our travels in India that made the TSA look good.

It was a pleasantly warm day when we landed at GOI (Dabolim Airport) after our brief flight, and a driver arranged by our hosts at Vivenda dos Palhacos (House of Clowns)was there to greet us. We'd reserved this property after reading the glowing reviews on Trip Advisor and we weren't disappointed.

Even as we drove in from the airport we noticed the cleanliness and beauty of the surroundings. As we gazed out the car window on the four-lane expressway we could imagine ourselves in Florida, the Caribbean, or maybe Southern California. No wonder so many people, both Indians and foreigners, recommended we visit Goa.

Vivenda dos Palhacos is located up an inauspicious little lane, but the welcome was warm, the brother-and-sister hosts were charming, and we enjoyed the ambience of the property, including the whimsical running chicken sculpture.

A Driver's License From The US State Department

2012-02-08T14:13:00.000-08:00

A certified letter from the US State Department arrives today. Inside are Kathy's enhanced driver's license, still in its now-tattered protective sleeve. Also in the envelope are an already-expired Continental Airlines Platinum Elite card and a $100 certificate for the Daily Grill restaurant, a gift from Tom.

Thank you US State Department. Thank you, kind thieves, for dumping these cards in plain sight. Thank you to whomever turned them in at the US Embassy in Delhi.

It could all have been much worse.

Riding The Rails From Agra To Delhi

2012-02-07T07:56:00.000-08:00

It was early in the morning, it was cold, and we didn't know for some time that the porters had deposited us at the right place to board our train when it finally arrived two hours late. It was also during this day, somewhere between the train station and our hotel that somebody cut open Kathy's day-pack and removed her wallet.

Ah, memories...

Even Tom was cold enough to borrow Ellyn's sweater.

A wizened little beggar woman limped around cajoling people for money. We gave her sandwiches from our hotel box lunch instead and she immediately dropped her cane, sat down on the platform, and devoured them. We wanted to leave her with a little dignity - dignity? - so we took this photo unbeknownst to her.

A little hint for train travelers in India - never look down at what lies on the tracks if you've just eaten, are eating, or are thinking of eating. 'Nuff said.

Finally we're on the train. Oh my but we're all happy.

Well, reasonably happy, at least when we find a blanket that comes with this sleeping compartment.

A lot to see out the window when we're not sleeping, although it's not very pretty. One of our memories of India is the litter that lies almost everywhere. While that may sound mean, Indians themselves are well aware of it.

Finally we're off the train at Delhi's main railway station and unwillingly pressing the flesh in massive crowds. One can readily imagine having one's pack cut open here? Or was it an "inside job" at a security check point? Below is our only photo of the downright ordeal of making our way from the station over to the Metro Train station. Believe us, the crowds became much worse.

Never did a hotel look so good when we finally arrived back at the Hilton Janakpuri. Of course we didn't realize until the following morning that Kathy's bag had been cut open and her wallet removed. Sometimes ignorance is bliss and tomorrow's another day.

About Those Regional Jets

2012-02-06T08:44:00.000-08:00

The planes are relatively small and the pilots often seem very young. We recall one experienced "mainline" pilot on FlyerTalk writing that he tried to avoid them himself.

Unfortunately, an interview with a regional-jet pilot that we just read doesn't necessarily reassure us.

Read it here and decide for yourself.

The Truly Awesome Taj Mahal

2012-02-05T12:32:00.000-08:00

Our entire Indian adventure probably started with a book written for children more than 70 years ago.

When Brian was about 10 years old he eagerly read and re-read a special Christmas present, the Complete Book of Marvels, the travel adventures of Richard Halliburton. Halliburton was a dashing young fellow from a "good" family who made a fortune writing and lecturing about his publicity-seeking travels to exotic locales in the years before his disappearance at sea in 1939 during what was to be his final effort of self-publicity, sailing a junk across the Pacific Ocean to the Golden Gate International Exposition in San Francisco.

Among Halliburton's many exploits, which include swimming the length of the Panama Canal as the S.S. Richard Halliburton for a tonnage charge of 36 cents, climbing both the Matterhorn and Mount Fuji, and claiming to cradle the infant Dalai Lama (yes, the current one) in his arms when he visited Tibet, he wrote of his visit to the Taj Mahal. He describes hiding in the shadows of a tree when the guards closed the grounds for the night, and then wandering about, communing with the dead princess and swimming in the lily pool. What romance for youngsters, but now we're dodging and honking our way through overcrowded Agra in our van, ironically in an effort to reach it before its closing time more than seven decades later.

Our driver picks up a guide pre-arranged by mobile phone, we're dropped off and board little electric vans to take us to the main entrance, we hand over tickets and are wanded and frisked by serious security guards, and finally we're standing at the Great Gate, the entry to the grounds and the mausoleum itself.

Our guide is excellent, even as he tells us some stories that we read later are probably myths. No, recent research indicates that Shah Jahan was not trying to built a duplicate mausoleum in black marble for himself across the Yamuna River.

His son did depose him, but not because his father was driving

the empire into bankruptcy with a new building project.

Likewise, there is no evidence that Shah Jahan killed or maimed the architects or builders to ensure they never duplicated his memorial.

All that aside, we have finally arrived. The beauty of this nearly 500-year-old "monument to love" exceeds our expectations. Here is a place we can accurately apply an over-used word: Awesome!

We do what we usually despise and pose, but we're doing it to prove to ourselves that we're really there than to show off to anybody else.

Now let's get out of the way.

The Great Gate is truly impressive in its own right as we turn around to look at it.

Is this where Richard Halliburton swam?

One last pose...

The details are magnificent as well.

As the sun falls lower on the horizon, we take in a few more striking views from the large open area surrounding the mausoleum, including another look across the river at the supposed foundations of Shah Jehan's black Taj Mahal.

Our guide tells us the Taj Mahal is so spectacular on moonlit nights that the grounds are open during the Full Moon. We'll have to settle for these views.

The Great Wall of China, The Great Pyramid of Khufu at Giza, Ephesus, Rome, the Acropolis and the Parthenon, and now the Taj Mahal. Wow! How very fortunate we are.

Taj Mahal Or Bust

2012-02-05T08:06:00.000-08:00

When Brian originally e-mailed Mr. Sinha, the owner of Four Wheel Drive India, he wrote that "We are interested in transportation from Jaipur to Agra and a visit to the Taj Mahal before being dropped off at the hotel we have reserved in Agra."

What with language barriers and all that, it was only after our mediocre but leisurely lunch stop at a tourist-trap type place along the road that it dawned on our driver we actually wanted to visit the Taj Mahal today, before it closed at 6:00 p.m.

From then on it was pedal-to-the-metal. These brief videos provide good examples of our entire drive through Agra as we approached one of the world's most famous buildings. In the second, you can hear Tom say, "This is pure chaos." In both you can hear our driver making good use of his horn.

On any future trip to Disneyland, Mr. Toad's Wild Ride will never feel quite as wild to us.

Jaipur To Agra: People-Watching

2012-02-05T06:56:00.000-08:00

We drew closer and closer to this jeep-like vehicle with three hangers-on.

When they finally unloaded, we realized the hangers-on had more room and fresh air than the other occupants. It couldn't help but remind Brian of the Clown Car Act he saw at the circus many years ago.

Driving From Jaipur To Agra: Chand Baori Stepwell

2012-02-05T06:34:00.000-08:00

After looking at train and plane schedules, we decided to rent a car and driver to take us from Jaipur to Agra. Our vehicle of choice was a Tempo Traveler, the most comfortable - and roomiest by far - of our entire trip.

Our driver picked us up at the Pearl Place Guest House promptly at 10:00 a.m. We realized early on that his English was limited - still much better than our Hindi - but he was as safe a driver as advertised. We'd requested some sightseeing along the way to the Taj Mahal and our first stop was a famous stepwell.

Stepwell is a reasonably self-descriptive word, being a well or pond over which quite elaborate steps are built. Chand Baori is one of the deepest - arguably the very deepest - stepwells in India, being about 100 feet deep, about the size of a 13-story building. It's shaped something like an inverted pyramid and presents a spectacular example of 9th century architecture.

We hired an on-site guide, who showed us around for a very reasonable price. It's somewhat dizzying - one website compares Chand Baori to one of M.C. Escher's lithographs - and it was a fascinating place to wander around on this sunny day.

Incidentally, the sign just below reveals that "Chand Baori Stepwell" is redundant, since baori is one of several English spellings of the Hindi word for stepwell, others according to Wikipedia being bawdi (Hindi: बावड़ी) or baoli (Hindi: बावली).

It was a trek for the common people to retrieve water, but it allowed the royal family living on top to enjoy the equivalent of flush toilets, still a rare commodity for some folks here 12 centuries later.

Jaipur By Tuk Tuk: Good Luck!

2012-02-04T07:10:00.000-08:00

Tom finalized the arrangements last night with the driver who remembers Ellyn's friend who stayed at the same hotel and hired him. This gentleman, like all too many of his fellow citizens, endured leprosy, but is friendly, cheerful, and helpful throughout our day with him and his partner.

This is one of many reasons we just love to travel with Tom and Ellyn, not to mention Haley. Would we ever have ventured into the chaotic traffic of Jaipur in that unstable little "auto rickshaw" known both in India and Thailand as a tuk tuk (sometimes hyphenated as tuk-tuk)?

No, we'd never do anything that foolish, but here we are, and having a ball...

A little bit of shopping was naturally on the agenda. We were driven to Vishnu Gems, and visited the manufacturing department first. We then enjoyed a very pleasant sales pitch from Mr. Singh before walking away with a few baubles for the ladies in our lives.

Then it was time for more tuk-tuking to a vegetable market for a walk-through.

We even stopped by the headquarters of a band that was assembling for a performance. Naturally we let them know we were former band teachers.

A few more market scenes to gaze at before climbing back into our tuk tuks.

We learned from one of our guides along the way that those sacred cows wandering around freely actually have owners to whom they return at night.

A Tootsie Pop is the reward to this young fellow for his proud pose.

Often the scenes aren't as happy.

We've been riding around in our tuk tuks for awhile and there's some chance that Ellyn-in-The-Middle is feeling just a leetle bit squashed by now.

One more stop and Tom talks to a spice merchant.

Many if not most trucks on the road are decorated. A very common sign on the back reads Honk Horn. Drivers use their horns profusely when overtaking (what we call passing). Despite the almost non-stop honking we found very little angry honking; the horn toots are signals.

Even though the driving and traffic patterns are now making more sense, we're still more than happy to leave the driving to somebody else and keep our fingers crossed.

Jaipur Scenes

2012-02-03T16:17:00.000-08:00

Haley continues to be a photo opportunity for the locals.

We finally return "home" to the Pearl Palace Heritage - The Boutique Guesthouse, one of the very satisfactory small hotels we found online and enjoyed. It was definitely not a Holiday Inn Express.

Jal Mahal: The Water Palace In Jaipur

2012-02-03T16:10:00.000-08:00

The Jal Mahal Palace (Water Palace) was built as a retreat for the royal family in the late 18th century.

It was just a quick photo stop for us, and we couldn't resist more photos of perambulating pachyderms in passing.

People, cows, pigs, monkeys - new, exotic, and sometimes even disturbing sights everywhere we looked.

One of the monkeys had been riding around on the pig for awhile, but by the time we took the photo he'd hopped down. What a grandkid-pleaser that shot would have been.

Jaipur India: Amer (Amber) Fort

2012-02-03T15:52:00.000-08:00

Overlooking Maota Lake, the Amer (Amber)Fort is a palace fit for a maharaja and his family.

It was also the spot where we became aware of the Haley Effect, the desire of the local folks, especially young males, to have their photos taken with a tall and beautiful young blond woman. Haley attracted crowds, whether she wanted to or not.

Brian still regrets not charging 20 Rupees a photo - it would have easily paid for dinner.

Jaipur Sightseeing

2012-02-03T15:38:00.000-08:00

En route to other sites, we pass a fairly typical street scene.

Suddenly we're at the Gatore Ki Chhatriyan,a royal crematorium. The cenotaph in the middle was built in honor of the famous maharajahs who went up in smoke here. We find ourselves face to face with macaque monkeys and viewing an Indian version of the Great Wall.

Then we're driving again, with plenty of sights to see right out the car window.

Jaipur India - The Pink City - And Jantar Mantar

2012-02-03T14:22:00.000-08:00

Jaipur was an amazing first stop to tour after flying in from Delhi. Jaipur, Agra, and Delhi are the three cities that comprise the Golden Triangle, India's most famous tourist region.

Jaipur is known as the Pink City, supposedly because the buildings were painted earthy red in honor of the 1876 visit of the Prince of Wales.

One of the stops we made on our first day, touring with a private driver, was Jantar Mantar a collection of architectural astronomical instruments built by a maharaja in the 1700s.

Reflections On Airport Security By An Off-Duty Pilot

2012-02-03T12:25:00.002-08:00

Patrick Smith is an airline pilot who writes an excellent column for Salon, Ask The Pilot.

Today he reflects on airport security and ruefully admits to being Defeated by TSA.

Another Sehome Sunset

2012-02-02T17:08:00.000-08:00

As seen across magnificent Thunderbird Lake...

Home Sweet Sehome

2012-02-01T14:16:00.000-08:00

Finally. Home! We feel like ET.

And Kathy's citrus grove appears to have survived in the garage, despite the power outage that put our space heaters out of commission.

Meatballs, Turkey Tetrazzini from the freezer for dinner tonight. Pot roast tomorrow night.

Life is good.

Up And At 'Em At SEA

2012-02-01T08:03:00.000-08:00

We slept hard last night - Hurray!

After some comfort food in the SEA Doubletree restaurant, we were asleep shortly after 8:00 p.m. Kathy was thrilled that she slept through until 4:00 a.m. until Brian pointed out that her watch was still on Mountain Time. Still, sleeping through into 3:00 a.m. isn't bad either.

It's a rainy day in SeaTac, and we're looking forward to completing one simple chore - picking up a replacement cook top for our cracked Wolf Induction cook top - before driving home to Birch Bay.

Denver Layover

2012-01-31T11:02:00.000-08:00

Our United Express flight DRO-DEN actually made up for some lost time and we were walking toward the United Club by 10:45 a.m. We're relaxing here and it's not too crowded, which is a treat. Our DEN-SEA flight doesn't leave until 3:30 p.m. so we may head out of the club for a bite to eat.