kemPlink Auto Detailing / THE PADDOCK

How to Remove Scratches from Car

noreply@blogger.com (ogie) — Thu, 27 Mar 2014 03:43:00 +0000

Edited by Maniac, Ryan Rodgers, BR, Estella the Farmer and 2 others

Scratched car paint can be caused by a number of reasons. Car accidents, juvenile behavior, poor parking and parking lot mishaps are all common occurrences. Scratches detract from the appearance of the car, but paying a body shop for a new paint job or even a small touch-up can be costly. Use these steps to remove paint scratches on your car without a professional.

Determine if the scratch is actually a scratch.

Many times what appears to be a scratch is actually a raised line of material from an impact. This occurs when your car contacts another bumper or any object whose coating is softer than your car paint. These imperfections require much less work to remove.

Establish the depth of the scratch.

Your car has 4 main layers: clear coat, color, primer and steel. If the scratch is only as deep as the clear coat or color, it will be much easier to remove. If you can see a different color or steel, the scratch is deep and might not be able to be repaired

Prepare the vehicle.

Wash and dry the car thoroughly. If the car is dirty during scratch repair, more scratches can be created.
Spray the scratched area with water.

Sand the scratch.

Wrap 2000-grit sandpaper around a sanding pad and begin sanding in the direction of the scratch (usually horizontally).
Periodically rinse the area with water.
If the scratch is deeper than the clear coat, use 1500-grit sandpaper initially to level the surface and then 2000-grit sandpaper to remove the scratches made by the coarser sandpaper.

Polish the area.

Apply rubbing compound to the scratched areas.
With a buffer pad, spread the compound around the area that is dull from sanding. Do not turn the buffer on yet.
Turn the buffer on its lowest level and move it around for approximately 10 seconds.
Increase the speed to 2000 RPM and buffer for 1 minute. You should be moving the buffer from side to side and then moving downward slowly.
Continue until the dullness has faded. This might take up to 5 minutes depending on the scratch and your speed.

Wash the area.

Use clean water and a towel to remove the leftover compound residue from the paint surface.

Apply car wax to your vehicle to seal the paint.

Finished.

MAINTAINING YOUR CAR'S PERFECT SHINE

noreply@blogger.com (ogie) — Sun, 22 Dec 2013 11:03:00 +0000

MAINTAINING YOUR CAR'S PERFECT SHINE

If you've finished the six steps to The Perfect Shine, you'll need to do some light maintenance to keep it looking great. If it's a true show car (toy), keep it covered. Even while it's neatly tucked away in the garage, you should keep your car covered. This keeps dust and pollutants off of the beautiful finish, and the wax won't evaporate as quickly (yes, wax evaporates).

Next, plan to do a quick detailing on your car after each outing. Choose a good detailing spray containing no protection or a carnauba wax detailing spray. A good detailing spray will restore shine. A carnauba detailing spray will replenish the wax lost through evaporation. Quick detailing will normally take no more than 5 to 10 minutes.

You can apply a fresh coat of P21S wax as often as you like. I recommend reapplying wax monthly, or whenever you want your car to look its very best.

etween washes and after washing, I recommend using Sonus Acrylic Spritz Quick Detail Spray 16.9 oz. or Sonus Carnauba Spritz. Both products will restore shine and protection. The Sonus Carnauba Spritz contains the same grade carnauba wax as P21S 100% Carnauba Wax . If you keep your car garaged and covered, this is a great detailing spray to maintain the concours finish. If your car is a daily driver, use Sonus Acrylic Spritz, which contains polymer protection.

The Klasse sealant glaze protection will last 5 to 6 months. Plan to repeat The Perfect Shine process two to three times a year to keep your car's paint in perfect showroom condition.

HOW THE PERFECT SHINE WORKS

There's no particular magic to this classic car polishing process; however, at least two of the ingredients are key. Finish preparation is the most significant function of the process. The paint finish must be refined through several grades of polish. This is how jewelry makers create gems of radiant beauty.

The key ingredients are Klasse All-In-One Polish and P21S 100% Carnauba Wax . The reason these two products work together, where others do not, is actually pretty simple. Klasse is an acrylic resin coating. It's not a petroleum- or water-based product. It's an acrylic. When it dries, it dries hard. Most synthetic sealants are polymers based on the element silicone.

To my knowledge, all polymer sealants are based on an emulsion system containing petroleum distillates. As a result, even the mildest petroleum distillates remove polymer sealants. Zaino Show Car Polish is the only polymer sealant that I'm aware of that can be successfully layered (a new application of Zaino Show Car Polish does not remove previous applications).

Likewise, carnauba waxes contain petroleum distillates. In waxes, petroleum distillates are used to soften the carnauba, which is rock hard in its raw form, so it can be blended into a paste or cream. The P21S Carnauba Wax formula uses a highly refined petroleum distillate, much the same as that used in the manufacture of cosmetics (i.e., lipstick wax). The solvent content in P21S Carnauba Wax does not affect the cured Klasse sealant glaze. By conducting side-by-side durability tests, I have proven Klasse remains solidly intact.

How to Use Car Detailing Wax

noreply@blogger.com (ogie) — Sat, 21 Dec 2013 15:40:00 +0000

There’s an art to applying car detailing wax. It will do a great job at putting the finishing shine on your vehicle and protecting it from the elements, but you need to know how to put it on your car.

Tools and Materials

Car wax
Damp sponge
Toothbrush
Microfiber cloths
Orbital sander with buffing attachment

Step One - Selecting Your Wax

There’s a very wide range of car detailing wax on the market. You can choose a natural car wax with carnauba or a synthetic car detailing wax. Research the products and select the wax that’s right for your needs and your car. Do you want a bright finish for a short time or do you prefer a wax that will last several months and offer strong protection? These are among the factors that will influence your choice. Where possible use a non-abrasive wax.

Step Two - Preparing Your Vehicle

Before waxing your vehicle you need to prepare it properly. Give it a through wash with good car shampoo and allow to dry. After that, go over the body with clay to pull out the deep dirt. When you’ve done that, use a good polish as the final step before waxing.

Don’t apply wax when the weather is very cold or extremely hot. Put your car in a shaded spot before applying car detailing wax so the wax doesn’t dry too quickly on the finish.

Step Three - Applying Wax

Have a clean, damp sponge. Dip it in the wax and put a piece of wax about the size of a half dollar into the sponge. If you’re using liquid wax, pour an amount of about that size onto the sponge. Rub the sponge in circles on the car body. These circles should be small. You need to go section by section on the car body. Each section should be quite small. Don’t do the entire hood at once, for example.

Try to avoid getting wax into the seams between pieces of metal. If you do so, remove it with an old toothbrush before it has time to harden. After you’ve finished applying wax to one section of the car body, move on to the next section. Continue until you’ve covered the entire car body with wax.

Step Four - Buffing

When it’s time to buff car detailing wax you have two choices. You can buff it by hand or use an electric buffing pad. If you’re buffing by hand, make sure you use a microfiber cloth rather than cotton. The fibers on cotton can actually scratch the clear coat, which won’t happen if you use a microfiber cloth.

Start with the section where you first applied the car detailing wax and move along the vehicle section by section. Shake the cloth out regularly to remove the wax and stop buildup. When you’ve finished hand buffing, inspect the entire vehicle to check the finish. Complete the car detailing wax job by a final rub over all the bodywork with a clean microfiber cloth.

With an electric buffer, move over the surface from the point you first applied the wax and finish by rubbing with a microfiber cloth.

Automotive Detailing Supplies and Equipment

noreply@blogger.com (ogie) — Tue, 09 Aug 2011 02:32:00 +0000

Proper car detailing starts with the right detailing supplies. Whether you are just washing your car on the driveway or an experienced professional auto detailer, you are going to want to have the best of the best to work with. The supplies you use will depend on the level of experience you have.

The variety of automotive detailing supplies on the market is sometimes a little overwhelming, so lets look at some basic jobs you would normally do to a car. This applies to both the do-it-yourselfer and the professional.

As an example, let see what you might need for a basic Wash and Dry. You will need the following supplies to properly wash and dry your vehicle
• 2 wash buckets, with a grit guard or tray for each
• Micro fiber wash mit or Micro fiber covered sponge
• Micro Fiber drying towel
• Tire brush
• Wheel cleaning brush
• Water filtration ( optional )
• Drying Blower ( optional )

Most of the detailing supplies are not available at your local automotive supply store, often you will need to purchase them online or find a wholesaler in your area. Finding all the products and equipment from one location is often difficult, but if you find a local wholesaler that carries a wide variety of brands, you can easily get all the supplies you need.

If you are looking to purchase your detailing supplies for home use and are not getting into detailing other vehicles professionally, then a good start would be to check out some local detailing shops. There are professional auto detailers in every major city, and I bet there are a lot more then you think there are. Most of the detailers in the business love what they do, and if you contacted them to discuss detailing, I am sure they would love it. You should ask if you can buy some of the product they use, you will probably get a better deal then if you went and tried to find everything you need yourself. You will probably find that each detailer has a brand or line of products they prefer over others, this is either from experience or what they learned with. Many experienced detailers usually stick to a specific brand for the majority of their products. They will use other suppliers as well for all the specific function products that only select manufacturers produce.

Other detailing supplies that you can buy at your local automotive hardware store are the simple tools and products. Micro fiber cloths and towel are now very common. A few years ago, you would not be able to find a single micro fiber cloth anywhere but specialty stores. Micro fiber drying towels and polishing cloths are the standard for all your auto detailing jobs, don’t get anything else to wash, dry, buff or clean with. The characteristics of micro fiber make them non-scratch and super absorbent. You can also find decent cash wash soap and brushes at your local automotive supply store too. Never use dish soap on your car, only use car wash soap designed for automotive purposes. Dish soap will strip all the protective layers you apply to your car, such as wax, sealant, trim sealers and detailer sprays. Only use it if is your intention to prepare the car for paint correction and polishing, in that case, you want to remove all those waxes and sealers.

Use a Rubbing Compound on Paint

noreply@blogger.com (ogie) — Tue, 26 Jul 2011 00:31:00 +0000

Rubbing compounds are effective at restoring painted finishes.

Flag this photo

Rubbing compound is a loosely defined term referring to a growing group of polishes that are designed to remove minor damage, imperfections or oxidation, generally from automotive-type finishes. Rubbing compounds can also be used to remove layers of built-up wax from cars and boats, before recoating with new wax. For best results, use rubbing compound on paint when the temperature is at least 50 degrees, and out of direct sunlight if possible.

Difficulty:: Moderately Easy

By Guide Fisher

Instructions

Soap
Bucket
Sponge
Clean, soft cloths or towels
Rubbing compound

Suggest Edits

- 1
  Select a rubbing compound approved for the surface, such as metal or fiberglass, and paint type, like acrylic enamel, lacquer or clear-coat finish.
- 2
  Wash the painted surface with soap and water to remove dirt. Dry the washed surface with soft towels, or allow the surface to air-dry.
- 3
  Apply 1 tsp. of rubbing compound to a clean cloth, according to the manufacturer's instructions. Some compounds call for a damp cloth while other compounds can be applied with a dry towel.
- 4
  Rub the compound into the paint in short, circular motions, approximately 10 to 12 inches in diameter. Allow the compound to set on the paint according to the manufacturer's instructions, as some types of compounds need to be allowed to dry before being wiped from the surface.
- 5
  Remove the compound, with a clean section of the cloth, by rubbing in the same circular motion used to apply the compound.
- 6
  Continue applying and removing the rubbing compound in 12-inch sections, until the entire surface has been covered. To be sure no sections are missed with the compound, overlap the already rubbed section with fresh compound by approximately 1 inch. Use a clean area of cloth each time you apply compound to the paint, changing out towels as needed.
- 7
  Inspect the entire surface for any areas you may have missed with the compound. Touch up any missed spots as needed.

Car Tire Cleaning Tips

noreply@blogger.com (ogie) — Wed, 13 Jul 2011 08:21:00 +0000

Keeping your tires clean can lengthen their lifespan and keep you safe on the road. Cleaning your tires involves much more than spraying them down with a hose; several car tire cleaning techniques can keep your tires in optimum shape. Pay attention to the wear and tear on your tires. Any visible degradation or noticeable wires sticking out of the surface indicate a need for new tires. Keep your tires in working order and free from obvious defects that could diminish performance.

Spraying down the car tires with water removes surface debris. For best results, use a garden hose fitted with a pressurized spray handle. Once you've wet the tires completely, leave the water for several minutes to loosen surface debris. Scrub the tires with a wire brush to remove stubborn debris and brighten the white lettering of the tire company logo.

Automotive supply shops sell special soaps made specifically for cleaning car tires. Use these soaps instead of a regular soap, which might contain tire-damaging acids. Also avoid wheel-cleaning sprays that claim to finish the job more quickly; most contain hydrofluoric acid that will damage the rubber. Used according to the manufacturer's directions, tire soap will help remove surface dirt and debris from your tires. Use a stiff brush coated in the soap to remove debris from the treads.

Ozone and ultraviolet (UV) light degrade car tires by breaking down the hydrocarbons in the rubber. To prevent tires from cracking or losing elasticity, coat tires with a special protectant once they have dried after you wash them. Automotive supply shops carry UV protectant sprays with varying degrees of strength. When shopping for a spray, avoid products that contain raw silicone oil or formaldehyde, which will eat away at the rubber of your tires. A car care specialist or mechanic can recommend the best brand for your tires.

Autos: Cleaning Tires: 3 Tire Cleaning Tips of the Pros

Insure on the Spot: The Importance Of Tire Maintenance

Photo Credit tire treads close-up image by Kathy Burns from Fotolia.com;

How Often Should You Wax a Car?

noreply@blogger.com (ogie) — Fri, 08 Jul 2011 06:09:00 +0000

how often should you wax a car?

Help your car maintain its showroom shine with regular waxing. But first, figure out how often you'll need to wax your car. Certain factors will tell you when you need to wax your car, but to be sure, you can perform a bead test.

Frequency of Waxing
- It is recommended that car owners wax their vehicles about once every 2 to 3 months, according to Web-cars.com, or more if the car is exposed to tough conditions. Extreme amounts of rain, or road salt in cold climates, can necessitate more waxing.
The Bead Test
- A good way to tell if it's time to wax your car is by the water bead test. Sprinkle some water on your car, and if the water beads that form are more than 1/2-inch in diameter or if it doesn't bead up at all, it's time to wax the car.
Applying Wax
- To properly apply wax to your washed and dried car, use a clean, dry cloth and put on a thin layer of wax with a circular motion. Be sure to do this in a shaded area because if the wax gets too hot it may dry too fast and become difficult to remove. Once the wax is dry, gently buff it off with a clean, dry cloth.
Don't Overwax
- Don't try to apply a thicker coat of wax in the hopes that you won't have to wax as often, Web-car.com advises. It will only be more difficult to buff off the wax.
Fixing Problem Spots
- If there are hazy spots or streaks mist the area with distilled water and a 1/2 tsp. of isopropyl alcohol, then wipe the area clean.

By Valerie Clark, eHow Contributor

Remove Yellow Stains From Chrome Rims

noreply@blogger.com (ogie) — Tue, 05 Jul 2011 04:34:00 +0000

Chrome rims add visual appeal to cars, motorcycles and trucks. To maintain the lustrous shine of chrome rims, vigilance is needed. Because the wheels of a vehicle are in constant contact with the ground, rims get dirty. Sometimes yellow stains appear on the chrome as the beginning stages of rust. Fortunately, these stains can be removed with a little work.

Difficulty:: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Chrome wheel cleaner
Polish soap
Bucket
Hose
Roll of paper towels
Baby oil
Cotton cloth
Fine steel wool

Suggest Edits

- 1
  Take the bottle of chrome wheel cleaner and squeeze out some of the liquid onto the chrome rim. Be certain that you cover the entire affected area that you will be working on. Rub the area with a cloth rag in a circular motion. Repeat on any additional affected areas.
- 2
  Use a small chunk of fine steel wool for more stubborn stains that won't come off using a rag. For the really stubborn or long-set stains, allow the chrome rim to sit for 2 to 3 minutes after spraying. Do not allow the cleaner to dry on the chrome rims.
- 3
  Wet a slightly abrasive sponge with water from a hose or bucket. Apply the polishing soap to the wet sponge in a circular fashion and build a good lather.
- 4
  Apply the soapy sponge to the areas that were treated with the chrome cleaner. Rub the chrome rims using the same circular motion that was used applying the cleaner. Start on the area that was cleaned first. Work your way to the other areas in the order used for cleaning.
- 5
  Use a dry cloth or paper towel to remove the soap suds that are left over. Running water from a hose could also be used for this task. If using water, dry the chrome rim completely with a towel or cloth.
- 6
  Apply some baby oil on a soft cloth and rub over the entire rim. This will give the chrome rim a beautiful showroom shine.

Cleans Water Spots Off Cars & Windows

noreply@blogger.com (ogie) — Tue, 28 Jun 2011 03:48:00 +0000

Water spots can be a problem on cars from the hazy stains they leave. They can result from acid rain and remain after rainwater dries off the car. They can be unattractive on the body and paint job, but they present a bigger problem on the windows as they can impair vision. Success in cleaning these spots off the car depends on how long you wait and how hard the stains are.

Glass Cleaner
Glass cleaner may get some of the softer, easier water spots off the windows but not the harder spots. At the very least, the glass cleaner removes other dirt and debris from the car so you can easily see the hard spots better. Apply the cleaner from its spray bottle to the entire surface and then wipe it away using clean cloth towels. Use glass cleaner without ammonia; this means you should avoid most household cleaners. You can use basic soap and water in place of glass cleaner for the car body.

Alcohol
Rubbing alcohol can get water spots off if you apply it and clean the car immediately after the rain. It works best if you mix it with water and vinegar, making sure the solution is at least 70 percent alcohol. Apply the alcohol to the rag first and then rub the rag across the surface. Use a very soft cloth and don't rub the surface too hard as you may cause abrasions. Alcohol dries and evaporates quickly, so let the car dry in the shade.

Commercial Compounds
A number of commercial rubbing compounds are designed to remove the spots completely; some even advertise as keeping them away afterward. Many of these compounds require a special brush-like applicator that rubs the compound onto the car. You then must rinse the car off to remove the compound. You may need to do this process multiple times to completely remove all the water stains.

Orbital Buffer
While brush-like applicators are usually recommended for applying rubbing compound, an orbital buffer can be effective. This works especially well because it can apply the compound to the surface quickly before it dries, which is a concern as that can scratch the windows. Use a buffer with a terry cloth bonnet since it is the one of the softest available. Only use the buffer on glass surfaces; using it on the car body can singe your paint job

Recommended Auto Glass Cleaner:
Sprayway Glass Cleaner
Stoner 92166 Invisible Glass
No Touch GS8 Auto Glass Stripper (See all Automotive Glass Cleaners)

Tips to Clay Bar Your Car

noreply@blogger.com (ogie) — Tue, 21 Jun 2011 08:47:00 +0000

If you are new to the world of auto detailing, clay bar car will sound odd if you are unfamiliar to this process. There are 4 specific areas of proper paint care when it comes to the paint on your car:
• Washing
• Cleaning
• Polishing
• Protecting

I don't consider myself an excellent detailer by any means, but I have a good amount of experience sanding, buffing, and waxing cars. One thing I have never tried, however, was using a clay bar to clean the paint's surface.

Honestly, I've always considered the "clay bar treatment" a gimmick- promising an easy way out of doing labor intensive work, and patently dismissed it. Well, I've become a believer. Last weekend, I was trying to rehabilitate the paint on my Subaru and among it's problems was massive overspray caused by careless spraying of motorcycle parts by me a while ago. Ironically, it was the same black paint I used on my Crown Victoria- a single stage black urethane, and it is really sticky.

I tried a couple different polishes and cleaner waxes with little success. Rubbing compound and a high-speed buffer was the next step, and if that didn't work I would have to wet-sand the whole car to get rid of it. That's a lot of work.

Clay bar is advertised to remove surface contaminates- tar, water spots, rail dust, and overspray- so I thought it was worth a try. And I'm happy I did; it works very well. I bought a box of Clay Magic at Autozone for about $16, and the it included a small brick of clay and a spay bottle of "Clay Lube" (probably soapy water).

Spray a section of paint, and start scrubbing with the clay. It feels like there is a lot of drag on the clay at first as it picks up all the junk off the paint, but once the surface is clean, it glides across smoothly, and the paint feels smooth as glass. The clay, however, will be black with all the junk from your car, so just turn it over or knead it like silly putty to expose a fresh section. It also does a good job cleaning up plastic trim, headlight and taillight lenses, and probably your glass, too, though I didn't try that.

Clay bar will not remove scratches or swirl marks, though. You will still need your buffer for that stuff. But this is a great way to clean your paint and prep it for polishing and waxing. I'm a fan.

Instructions

1 First, you want to wash your car completely with a recommended car shampoo. This will remove any wax that may help seal in the contaminants on the paint. Regular car wash is made not to strip wax, so it may not be as effective. Put your hand in a zip lock bag and run it over the surface. It will feel like sand paper. These are the contaminants sticking to your paint.

2 Next, Make sure your car is parked in the shade and it's surface is cool to the touch. You can now take the clay bar out of the container and divide it into 3 or 4 pieces. This is so you will have spares in case you drop the clay on the ground (the clay will pick up dirt and grit if dropped, rendering it useless). Knead the piece of clay until it gets softer and then flatten it.

3 Take some spray detailer or clay lubricant and spray it on a 2 foot square area and on the clay itself. More lubricant is better. Work the clay across the surface in a back and forth motion using moderate pressure until it begins getting easy to glide across the surface. Once it glides then you can move on to another area. You can use the zip lock on your hand to check to see if it is smooth enough for your liking. Every now and then you should knead the clay and refold in order to create a clean clay surface.

4 Once you are satisfied with the area you are working on, move on to another 2 foot square area. Continue this until you have completed the entire car. Keep in mind that this is not a quick job. It may take you 4 or 5 hours to do it properly, but it will be well worth the time. Nothing makes your paint as smooth and shiny as a clay bar detailing.

5 Make sure to buff your car with a polish and a wax in order to seal in all of your hard work and to help seal out paint contaminants and debris.

Things You'll Need
• Car Shampoo
• Clay Bar (Meguiar's, Mother's, 3M, etc.)
• Clay Bar lubricant (Meguiar's Spray Detailer, etc.)
• Paint Polish (to remove excess clay on paint)

Recommended Clay Bar :
1. Meguiar's G1001 Smooth Surface Clay Bar
2. Mothers 07240 California Gold Clay Bar
3. Wolfgang Elastic Poly Clay

How to Compound & Buff

noreply@blogger.com (ogie) — Sat, 18 Jun 2011 05:53:00 +0000

Most automobile owners want the exteriors of their vehicles to be clean with a buffed shine. Rain, snow, oxidation and ultraviolet light can all have detrimental effects on surface paint, producing a hazy or fogged appearance. By using cutting compounds and polishing wax, surface paint can be restored to look like new again. A vehicle owner who learns how to properly use an orbital buffer, compounds and waxes can perform a partial or full polish restoration with professional-looking results.

Instructions
1.Mix a solution of dish-washing soap in a bucket of warm water. Use a washing mitt. Remove all grime, oil and oxidation. Dry with clean towels. Use a crescent wrench to bolt a cutting pad onto an orbital buffer, or install a Velcro pad. Use a medium cutting pad to start with. Select a small area of the surface to perform a test run.

2.Apply a smear of medium-grit cutting compound to the cutting pad. Turn on the orbital buffer; if the buffer has a variable speed control, set the knob for 1000 to 1500 rpm. Run the buffer from side to side over the surface, keeping mild contact with the paint -- do not push the buffer pad into the paint with excessive pressure. Switch the movement to up-and-down buffing strokes, then pull the buffer away from the paint.

3.Wipe the compound residue off with a microfiber towel and examine the surface. You should be able to see your reflection in it, with no haze or oxidation. If the surface appears deeply fogged, switch to the heavy cutting pad and heavy-grit compound and buff over the same area. Depending upon your results, use the pad and compound that worked best and run the buffer over a larger section of about 2-by-3 feet.

4.Use side-to-side movements, then up-and-down strokes. Always keep the buffing pad spinning and moving -- do not let it sit in one area, where it can burn the paint. Lighten the touch of the buffer around sharp edges and seams. Wipe down each section with a microfiber towel and examine the surface. Re-buff any areas that seem heavily oxidized. Change to a clean cutting pad if the old one loads up. Take frequent breaks if you are buffing the entire vehicle. Use a dab of cutting compound on a microfiber towel to get any areas that the buffer could not reach.

5.Remove the cutting pad from the buffer and install a polishing pad on the sponge backing. Apply a liberal amount of polishing wax on the pad, and using the same procedure, buff the wax into the paint. Remember to use side-to-side, then up-and-down movements with the buffer. Wipe down each section you polish with a microfiber towel and inspect the results. You should be able to see a crystal clear reflection of your face in the paint, particularly with a darker color.

6.Change the polishing pad if the old one loads up. Use some polishing wax on a microfiber towel to reach any spots the polishing pad missed, such as the corners of the side panels, or in and around door handles. Use clean microfiber towels to wipe away all wax residue after you have finished the entire buffing procedure.

Things You'll Need
• Liquid-washing shampoo: Detailer's Pro Series Xtreme Foam Formula Auto Shampoo
• Washing mitt
• Bucket
• Towels
• Crescent wrench
• Porter Cable's buffer
(with cloth or sponge backing pad)
• Microfiber towels
• Cutting compound (fine, medium and heavy grit)
• Cutting pads (fine to heavy)
• Polishing pads
• Polishing wax
• 3M Swirlmark Remover

Recommended product of Car Wax & Sealant to use :

Top 3 Waxes

Top 3 Spray Wax

1. Surf City Garage 100 Speed Demon Wax Detailer Spray
2. FLITZ Speed Waxx
3. Meguiar's G14422 Ultimate Quick Detailer

Essentials to start an Automotive Detailing Business

noreply@blogger.com (ogie) — Thu, 16 Jun 2011 09:59:00 +0000

Starting your own detailing business is a rather simple process. There are some caveats and information you should be aware of before you move ahead on it. The first one being, is it something you like to do? I ask this because the work involved in detailing a vehicle is labor intensive sometimes. That is unless you plan to build a business and hire all your staff, detailers, etc. In that case, there is no labor for you in the actual polishing, and detailing processes.

What is Automotive Detailing?

Auto detailing is basically performing an extremely thorough cleaning of a vehicle, inside and out. As well as paint restoration and correction. The primary focus of an auto detailer is the paint. Most people associate detailing services with fixing the paint and making it look like new, removing all the imperfections, scratches, swirls, stains, oxidization and more. Many people detail cars for pure enjoyment, some do it as a full time business or are employed as automotive detailers. Either way, there is a general dedication among most professional detailers to acquire the best finish they can on vehicles. An experienced detailer has a wide range of knowledge of the materials, paints, and fabrics in all makes of cars and trucks. They also have a wide range of chemicals used to clean, treat, protect and make any vehicle shine above the rest. They use their knowledge and understanding of the varied surfaces to rejuvenate and protect the entire vehicle. An automotive detailer also has to be able to experiment and learn new techniques, especially as new materials become common among newer vehicles. Painting process, sealants, clear coats, fabric all change over time within the automotive world and a good detailer needs to keep up with these changes.

Starting a New Detailing Business

Starting a detailing business is no different then starting any other small business. There are locations to consider, but generally most new detailers start out of their house or garage. Many also incorporate a mobile server, which requires a few more resources and tools. For starting a new business from home and to work out of the garage, you will need to get a few things sorted out. First, you need to check with your local government on the laws for running a home based business. There are a lot of tax breaks and rules you will need to follow. Paperwork and proper records are probably the biggest part of it. You will also need a business license or registration, depending on the start, country or area you live. Giving you specific information on what forms to complete and where to go would be useless, every area is different. Start with your local city or town government website and go from there. Once you have the paperwork in order , it is time to acquire your startup material and tools.

The Tools and Equipment to Start a Detailing Business

Generally you will not need everything when you first start out, but you will need to have enough product, tools and supplies to meet the basic requirements of detailing a vehicle. The basic things you will be doing are engine, interior and exterior detailing. You will need to have a reasonable budget to start up and buy all your products. You will need at least the following items to be able to do a complete detail of a vehicle
* Vehicle Washing Buckets
* Washing Brush or preferably a micro fiber wash mitt
* Drying towels ( micro fiber only )
* Standard garden hose and spray nozzle
* Vacuum for interior work.
* A variety of spray bottles for your chemicals and cleaners
* Carpet brush - for removing stains, etc.
* Wax applicators
* Rotary or Dual Action Machine Polisher
* 3 to 8 polishing pads for the polisher
* Detailers Automotive Clay Bar
* A variety of polishes, heavy, medium, light - 1 of each to start
* A glaze type, finishing compound
* Wax or sealant product
* All purpose cleaning agent, water soluble
* All purpose detailer spray
* Tire cleaning and detailing product
* At least 30 to 50 small micro fiber cloths for cleaning and buffing

That should get you started with enough tools and products to complete a full vehicle. There are a lot more products you can buy and if you want to experiment and have the budget for it, great, get it all. As you work on vehicles and use the online resources , you will find that you want to try new products. When you have specific problems or issues with vehicles is when you end up picking up new items.

What's Next?

Now you need the customers. Well, if you are just starting out from your home, start spreading the work around to your friends, relatives, etc. You will probably have to show them what you can do, either with pictures or in person. I would recommend doing a few things at first. Go to your local automotive wrecking yard and get your self a used hood, preferably black ( best to practice on ), then set it up in your garage on a bench. Then tape off sections, about 8 sections. Then start using your products on each area, seeing what they can do, etc. Take pictures before and after everything you do. Use those pictures to advertise. Then once you get a section look good... scratch it up. Take your shoe, sand paper, a key, anything. Then see if you can remove the damage. Practice on the hood before you practice on a car. Next, you will want a car to work on. Detail your families cars for free, or start with your own. It really does not take long to figure out what works and what does not work. This also gives you the opportunity to see what other products you are missing.... say a leather cleaner and protectant, or an engine brush, a wheel brush, a trim detailer, glass cleaner, etc.... this list can go on for a long time.

I only briefly highlighted the basic things to start into the automotive detailing business, please take the time to look at all other resources as well. I hope I have provided you with some additional information you can use.

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED CAR WAX:

Top 3 Waxes
1. Meguiar's A-2216 Deep Crystal Carnuba Wax
2. Surf City Garage 150 Barrier Reef Carnauba Wax
3. Meguiar's M2611 #26 Yellow Wax Paste

Top 3 Sealants
1. Surf City Garage 701 Shine-On Sealer and Glaze System
2. Wizard's - Supreme Seal Paint Sealant (12oz) : 11500
3. MEGUIAR"S SYNTHETIC SEALANT 2.0

So what is the best car wax maintainer? Whether you use a Carnauba wax or a sealant, the best way to maintain that “just waxed” look is to use a spray wax. With an “easy on - easy off” application, these products will maintain the highest gloss without re-waxing every time. Spray waxes are applied and taken off with microfiber towels like Surf City Garage's Nano-Detail Polishing Cloths (3/pack) or Meguiar's X2020 Supreme Shine Microfiber - Pack of 3

Top 3 Spray Wax
1. Surf City Garage 100 Speed Demon Wax Detailer Spray
2. FLITZ Speed Waxx
3. Meguiar's G14422 Ultimate Quick Detailer

The High End Car Wax reviews

noreply@blogger.com (ogie) — Mon, 13 Jun 2011 08:35:00 +0000

Definitive Wax Marble “Brough & Howarth”

You've just put a new set of $38,000 tires on your Bugatti Veyron after getting the $21,000 service and replacing the $12,000 set of wheels. You've had her hand washed by a pro, but you want that little something special to finish the job and make the paint look as much like a black hole as your wallet does. Brough & Howarth have the answer: a $37,000 canister of car wax.

Called "Definitive Wax Marble," the white-and-grey marble cube runs a cool 24,000 British pounds, or about $37,000 USD. The company claims the wax to be the rarest and most expensive in the world. Definitive Wax Marble is sourced from Athens, Greece, made of refined fruit oils, local Greek beeswax, and imported canauba wax from northern Brazil.

Brough & Howarth think the investment in a car's finish is well worth the price of entry, however, particularly for the rare and vintage collector. Some of these vehicles are valued at over GBP1m and are pieces of art in their own right, so the correct car care methods are critical in maintaining their value," says Jason Brough, Brough and Howarth's master polisher. "You can put a GBP5,000 bespoke, tailor-made suit in the washing machine and it would clean it. But you wouldn't, would you?"

Definitive Wax Marble is so exclusive, it's not even for sale. It's only available as a wax treatment through Brough & Howarth. Just the one pot of the wax exists.

The latest Definitive Wax Marble wunderpot is due for its own special unveiling soon at a "prestigious" London spot. Those with the cars and the cash to make use of this service probably already have an invitation. As for myself, I just wonder what $37,000 car wax smells like.
Price : £ 24,000 / $ 37,000 USD

[Brough & Howarth]

Zymol Royale Glaze

It was originally formulated to protect the finish of the Bugatti Royale, a rare late 1920's ultra-luxury car (only about half a dozen were built) so meticulously crafted and exquisitely engineered that today it is considered a work of art. Suitable for all paint types and colors. Royale Glaze contains 70% Brazilian No.1 White Carnauba by volume, which is the absolute highest quality available anywhere! Ingredients: Contains white carnauba sap, Montan Evergreen Oil, Sunflower Oil, Cantaloupe Oil, Coconut Oil, Honeydew extract, Strawberry extract, Propolis (derived from bees) and pure glycerin. Royale Glaze contains 70% Brazilian No.1 White Carnauba by volume.
Price: $8,415.00
Zymol Royale Glaze
- Features
• Contains 70% Carnauba Sap/Wax by volume (100% White).
• Refilled at no extra charge, for life.
• Ingredients derived from nature include sunflower, honeydew and cantaloupe oils.
• Provides protection that polishes do not.
• Greater protection with increased depth of shine and reflection.
• No harsh chemicals or abrasives.
• No white residue or buildup along seams

Swissvax SP10155500 Crystal Rock Paul Dalton's Carnauba-Glaze

Product Features
• Concours-wax with over 76 percentage Vol. of pure ivory colored Grade one Carnauba wax from Northern Brazil
• Special development for Paul Dalton in Great Britain, one of the most famous automobile detailers in the world
• Produces a streak-free gloss and enhances the paintwork surface with best beading characteristics
• Proverbial ease of application
• Prepare the paintwork with Cleaner Fluid prior to the wax application
Price: $1,265.00

Crystal Rock has been developed by Swissvax in partnership with Paul Dalton, probably the most renowned car detailer in the world.
With 76% by wax volume of pure Brazilian ivory carnauba wax, this wax has one of the highest Carnauba contents of any wax on the market. In effect, it coats a car’s paintwork in a smooth and glossy, yet tough and protective, water repellent film and even brings a shine to white and silver. A layer of ‘Paul Dalton’s Crystal Rock Wax’ can last up to 6-12 months and can be ‘topped up’ with additional layers for even more protection.
The waxes come in a satin pouch with a certificate personally signed by Paul himself.
Approx 76% Carnauba wax by volume.
Please Note: As with any premium wax your paintwork should be prepared and ready to accept the wax. For this product use a clay bar (if required) followed by Swissvax Cleaner Fluid as a pre-wax cleaner, before first applying any Swissvax Wax as the wax will not bond to bare paint surfaces.

Ideal Application:
Apply by hand or foam applicator pad with only a light pressure to form a uniform film. Leave for 10 minutes.
Buff off with a premium Microfibre cloth, turning occasionally to use a clean surface.
Try not to touch the paintwork for a minimum of 3 hours and if possible leave the car in the sun. During this time the luster will continue to deepen. A second buff may be beneficial at this time.
For best results (depending on vehicle usage):
After 1-3 months; simply wash, dry and just re-wax.
Then after 6-8 months; repeat the full treatment with Cleaner Fluid preparation and then wax.
Note that discounts do not apply to this product
Size: 200ml

Zymol Atlantique

Features
Contains 60% Carnauba Wax by volume (100% White).
Based on the formula for Ralph Lauren's 1937 Bugatti Type 57SC Atlantique. Used to Win at Pebble Beach Concours d'Elegance.
Ingredients derived from nature include cinnamon bark, sunflower and clove oils.
Provides protection that polishes do not.
Greater protection with increased depth of shine and reflection.
No harsh chemicals or abrasives.
No white residue or buildup along seams.
Price: $1,350.00

Zymol Atlantique Glaze (226g) - Description
Zymol Atlantique Glaze(wax) is based on a custom formula developed for Ralph Lauren's 1937 Bugatti Type 57SC Atlantique. Like many Zymol-prepared cars, the Bugatti won "Best of Show" at the Pebble Beach Concours d'Elegance in 1990. The protective ingredients in Atlantique are clove, coconut, cinnamon bark and sunflower oils. Suitable for all paint types and colours. Atlantique contains 60 percent Brazilian No. 1 White Carnauba by volume.

You may also wish to consider the following waxes containing higher levels of carnauba for increased durability, added depth and reflection; Zymol Vintage Glaze and Zymol Royale Glaze.

Zymol waxes are actually "enzymes" that turn into wax when exposed to air during application on your paint surface.

How to Apply Car Scratch Remover

noreply@blogger.com (ogie) — Thu, 09 Jun 2011 08:05:00 +0000

Anatomy of a scratch
Swirl marks are the light, often circular scratches that can result from washing or drying your car with a dirty cloth, using an overly abrasive polish, or using a drive-through car wash that hasn't been well maintained, among other causes. In addition to the scratch removers we tested, a cleaner/wax or some car polishes can be used to smooth out the marks.

Deeper, more noticeable scratches are harder to correct. Those that haven't penetrated the paint's clearcoat layer can be made less noticeable by using one of the better products in this group. Scratches that expose the primer or metal underneath, however, must be repainted. You can try using touch-up paint, but a professional is most likely to provide the best results.
You will find it easy to remove a scratch in your car's paint with car scratch remover. Inevitably, at some point in time, the glossy paint job on your car will become damaged by scratches. You can save money over taking your car to a professional by applying these simple steps.

Step 1 - Wash Car
Park car in a shaded area. You will want to mix water and soap into your bucket. Be sure to read instructions for use on back of soap container on how to mix with water. Ensure you select a soap that is gentle, yet strong enough to cut through any grime you have picked up from your travels. A good soap can be purchased at your local automotive supply and accessory store. Wash car thoroughly using the soft bristled brush.

Step 2 - Dry The Car
Hand dry the car with the soft towel. This enables you to remove any remaining dirt and debris and ensures the surface will be ready for Step 3.
Step 3 - Prepare Buffer and Pad
Attach the polishing pad to the buffer. When the pad is securely in place, apply the scratch remover compound to the center and outer edge of the pad. Be sure not to over saturate the pad with compound.

Step 4 - Apply Compound
Place the pad against the scratched area of your car's paint. Before starting the buffer, move the pad and buffer in a circular motion over the scratch to allow the compound to get into the scratch.

Step 5 - Buff the Area
Set your buffer at approximately 1400 RPM and turn it on. Move the buffer in a back and forth motion over the scratch. Check the scratch after a period of time to see if it is still visible. Continue to buff until the scratch is no longer visible.

Step 6 - Wipe Area
Once the scratch is gone, use the second soft towel to wipe away any excess scratch compound. The area is most likely glossier and more revived than the rest of the paint. Move on to Step 7.

Step 7 - Buff Entire Car
Remove the wool buffing pad from the buffer and put on the foam buffing pad. Proceed to buff the entire car. Once you are done, use the soft towel again and wipe down the area to move any pad debris.

Step 8 - Apply Wax to Car
After you are done buffing, you will now need to apply the wax to your paint's surface. A high quality wax will ensure you get an even and lustrous shine. Your local automotive supply and accessory store stocks a wide variety.
Step 9 - Buff Car to Shine
With the foaming pad in place, buff the entire car thoroughly leaving no waxed spots untouched. You now have a scratch free and beautifully shiny car again all on your own.

Preventing scratches

• Wash your car once a week. Dirt on the paint can easily lead to scratches.

• Don't slide objects across the paint. Even grocery bags can cause scratches.

• If you wash a car by hand, don't use an abrasive cloth such as one with synthetic fibers. We suggest a clean sponge or sheepskin mitt.

• Hose off any dirt or grime before you begin washing, and frequently rinse the sponge or mitt in clean water. If it drops on the ground, don't use it until it has been thoroughly cleaned.

• Dry the paint with a clean chamois or terrycloth towels.

• Wax using microfiber towels or soft all-cotton cloths, such as cloth diapers

Tools and Materials Needed
• Hose
• Water
• Soap (designed for cars)I use Meguiar's G7101 Gold Class Wash Shampoo
• Bucket
• Soft Bristle Car Brush
• Soft Towel(for drying)
• Soft Towel (for compound)
• Scratch Remover Compound I use Meguiar's G10307 Scratch X 2.0
• Buffer (variable cycle)
• Wool Polishing Pad
• Foam Buffing Pad
• Car Wax. I recommend :
Zymol Carbon Wax (See all Car Waxes) , Meguiar's , 3M Paste Wax (See all Car Waxes) , Swissvax Crystal Rock

Car Polishing and Waxing

noreply@blogger.com (ogie) — Tue, 07 Jun 2011 09:04:00 +0000

Polishing and detailing your vehicle can be a daunting task. With a little bit of knowledge and the right tools, you can bring the paint and exterior finish of your car back to a better then new look. You can get that show room shine and finish yourself without having to invest the money for a professional detailer to do it for you. Although I am a detailer, I am kinda telling you now not to come see me…. I might loose some business, but that is ok.

Paint Surface Preparation

The first thing that you are going to want to do is prepare the surface for polishing. An improperly cleaned paint surface will have dirt, grim and build up that will cause further scratching when you go to polish it. First step is a proper wash and dry. Use only car wash soap, 2 bucket system. This is having a soap and water solution in one and rinse water in the second. Before each pass, you rinse your mitt, then gather the soapy water, wash a small section, then rinse again. This helps keep the wash mitt clean. Wash the car from top down only. Change your water if needed half way through the process. Next is to use some detailer’s clay and lubricant. This removes the road grim, rail dust that builds up on your. If you run your hand along the surface and it feel rough, you need to use a clay bar. Once that step is complete, you will then need to remove the wax or sealant that was from the previous detailing session. You can use dish soap in this case only, a dawn type soap will remove this build up. Or a paint cleaner polish will also work well.

Exterior Automotive Paint Surface Diagnosis

Polishing the car’s paint surface requires a little diagnosis first. You need to determine that type of paint, single or dual stage, thickness and condition of the paint. Look for the type of scratching, can you catch you nail on it ? if so, then it’s deep and you might need some paint to fill that in first. Filling and wet sanding a scratch is a little more work, but may be necessary if the scratch is through the clear coat and/or paint layer.

Automotive Paint Polishing Process

Once you have determined the level of damage to the paint surface, you can select the tools and products to complete the job. Product selection will be varied, each paint brand, color and type will react differently to polishes you apply, some paints and clear coats are harder then others and need a heavier cut to do the same job as a mild cut on a different car. You should start out with a mild cut and a mild pad, if you do not get the results you want, move to the next heavier pad or product. Start mild and move up to the heavier cuts until you find the combination that removes the scratches and marks in the paint surface. Then work back to the mildest cut and glaze to complete the process. This normally takes between 2 and 4 passes on a single vehicle to go from a dull, scratched surface, to a crystal clear, rich, deep color finish.

Waxing and Sealing the Paint

Once you have polished the paint and removed the imperfections, scratches, halo’s, swirls, etc. Then you can wax or seal it. Waxing a car works very well to improve the look, as does a sealant, however, a sealant will last longer. Expect a good wax to last 4 to 8 weeks, were a sealant can last you 3 to 12 months. Environmental factors and how often you wash your car affect how long each of them will last.

Anyways, detailing your car and polishing it properly will help protect the paint and keep it looking new for years to come.

Recommended Scratch Remover product:
Meguiar's G17216 Ultimate Compound

3M PERFECT-IT 3000 DETAIL BUFFING COMPOUND/POLISH-AUTO

Automotive Interior Detailing Process

noreply@blogger.com (ogie) — Mon, 06 Jun 2011 05:34:00 +0000

Cleaning and detailing the interior of a vehicle is something that is often neglected by most people. Most of the time people only clean out the garbage, vacuum it quickly and go. The odd time they will shake out the floor mats, but that is the extent of most people’s idea of cleaning the interior of a car. Interior Detailing is a lot more involved and specific.

The interior of your car is a confined space that gets just as much traffic as your entire house might, but accumulates more dirt usually. You are in and out of your car all the time, tracking in dirt, dust, animal hair, odors, etc. You might even have kids who track in 10 times more dirt it seems at times. Eating in your car usually always results in crumbs or spilled drinks and fries. Lets look at the detailing process to fully detail the interior of your car.

First Steps to Interior Detailing

The first task will be to remove all the garbage, papers, etc in the car. Removing all personal items such as shoes, purses, glove box contents, stuff in the trunk, everything. By removing all loose items, from all compartments, floors and seats, you give yourself the room you need to get to all the surfaces to clean and treat them. In some cases, you might also want to remove the front seats, or back seats too. If you have liquid spills that got into the floor, or under the seats, then removing them will make it easier to get to the stains and clean them up. The next step in your preparation is a thorough vacuuming. Make sure to get all loose dirt and particles with the vacuum as you can. The more you can suck up with the vacuum, the less you have to wipe up with a cloth.

Carpet, Fabric and Upholstery Detailing

Detailing your carpet and fabric can be done both by hand or with a machine. Most Detailers use an “extractor” , which is just a fancy word for steam cleaner. The difference in this case is that an extractor is usually smaller, has smaller attachments and is designed specifically for automotive purposes. What this machine does is super heat water and a cleaning solution, then with high or medium pressure is sprayed from a nozzle into the carpet and fabric. Similar to a home steam cleaner, the unit also sucks the solution out of the carpet, along with the dirt and grim. These extractors also have a higher sucker power then a traditional steam cleaner and can remove nearly 100% of the cleaning solution from the fabrics. The machines make fabric cleaning fast, easy and very efficient. The other alternative is to use a carpet cleaner, a cloth and do it all by hand, but you can expect less impressive results. Deep cleaning the fabric by hand is quite a bit harder, but still effective.

Leather, Vinyl and Plastic Detailing

The other surfaces in your car are usually one of the 3, or a combination of each. Cleaning and detailing these surfaces can be done at the same time or individually, depending on the product you choose. Several all-in-one cleaning products on the market today are safe for all interior surfaces. A professional detailer will usually choose a product like this so that they can save time and still effectively clean and detail all interior surfaces at the same time. Some special care might be needed for stains, leather and clear plastic surfaces, but generally, an all purpose detailing cleaner does very well. I will cover how to care for leather in a more detailed post later. Once these surfaces are clean from dirt and stains, you will want to treat them with a protectant and detailing spray. Most detailers refer to this final step of the interior as the detailing stage, where you will use a product that brings out the finish in the surfaces. Usually most people look for the shine or gloss from these products, but most of the time you can dilute the product with water and apply it different ways to attain the shine that you want.

Glass Surface Detailing

One of the last steps in detailing the interior of your vehicle is to clean the glass. I would recommend you leave this step for last, most of the other products you use on the interior might leave a residue or overspray on the glass. Use a good glass cleaner formulated for automotive care. Do not use ammonia based cleaners, like windex, these usually leave a film behind that you cannot see and eventually makes the glass look hazy. Clean both the interior and exterior surfaces of the glass, use a micro fiber towel and you should be left with a crystal clear window. I would also use the same product on the dash gauges and any clear or polished plastic in the interior, it should remove all residue and finger prints left behind.

Car Care recommended products:
Meguiar's Complete Car Care Kit
Zwipes 6-Piece Microfiber Dusting Kit
ToplessAddict Protect and Clean Convertible Tops, Interior Fabrics and Carpet Ultimate Car Cleaner
Zwipes Microfiber

Car Washing Tips

noreply@blogger.com (ogie) — Fri, 03 Jun 2011 08:36:00 +0000

Cleaning a car is a piece of cake, right?

It is if you follow the procedures suggested by the Kemplink Auto Detailing. While it's the most basic procedure in car care, it does require some thought.

Research shows that 52 percent of American car owners wash their cars less than once a month, with 15 percent never washing their cars. An estimated 37 million cars smell because of interior garbage, according to a consumer survey conducted by the International Carwash Association.
To get started, you must have the right supplies for the job:

* finish-safe Wheel Cleaner

* a soft brush like Gardena 987 Soft Bristle Car Wash Brush
;

* a 3- to 5-gallon bucket;

* liquid car-washing shampoo example like Meguiar's G-12664 NXT

* a hose with pistol-grip nozzle, if possible;

* car-washing mitts or soft all-cotton towels;

* several all-cotton towels or Synthetic Drying Chamois.

Give the car a good rinsing from top to bottom, including the wheels and inside the fenders. Always clean the tires and wheels before washing the body, and don't use the same mitt for both. This way you'll avoid contaminating the vehicle's paint with debris from the wheels and tires.

Use a good tire cleaner with a stiff brush to improve the appearance of your tires. Next, clean the wheels with a wheel cleaner that removes the brake dust, which often blackens the front wheels.

To wash the body, use a product sold specifically for automobiles; household cleaners can strip the wax from the paint and damage the finish. Starting at the top, wash one section at a time, thoroughly rinsing away the soap before moving on to the next section. Work your way down toward the front, sides and rear of the vehicle.

To rinse, start at the top, and let the water cascade down the surfaces of the vehicle. To avoid water spotting, dry with a chamois or similar product.

Then follow up by waxing, which not only protects the finish but also makes subsequent washing easier. Before proceeding, use a car cleaner to remove contaminants embedded in the paint.

Once the surface is clean, apply the wax, following the manufacturer's instructions.

Recommended Product :

Top 3 Waxes

1. Meguiar's A-2216 Deep Crystal Carnuba Wax
2. Surf City Garage 150 Barrier Reef Carnauba Wax
3. Meguiar's M2611 #26 Yellow Wax Paste

How to Polish a Glass Windshield

noreply@blogger.com (ogie) — Wed, 01 Jun 2011 10:31:00 +0000

General wear from the elements can make your windshield dirtier than you might think. Mineral deposits, road oils, pollution and a variety of other agents can leave your glass windshield feeling gritty and rough. In these cases, an ordinary glass cleaner will not suffice. You will need to polish your windshield.

Things You'll Need

• Diamond Fast - Cerium Oxide Glass Polishing Compound

• Peak Microfiber Glass & Windshield Cloth

• Griot's Garage 10765STDCRD 6" Random Orbital with 10' Cord
(optional)
• Griot's Garage 10665 3" Glass Polishing Pad, (Set of 3)

Instructions

o Assess the current state of your windshield. Windshields that are grittier or scratched will likely need a machine polisher to return them to their "good as new" state, while mildly damaged windshields may be able to be polished sufficiently with a little elbow grease.

o Purchase a glass polishing agent made specifically for windshields. These products can be found at some auto supply and hardware retailers.

o Buy or rent a machine polisher if indicated by the condition of your windshield and/or the polishing product you choose. These can also be found at hardware stores, as orbital polishers have a variety of functions beyond auto detailing. Purchase at least one glass polishing disk to go along with your machine polisher.

o Read the manufacturer's instructions that come with the glass polishing agent for proper application. Most polishers are applied in a circular pattern over the entire windshield, allowed to dry and then rinsed off with water.

o Go over the windshield with a clean microfiber cloth to give it a final buffing and remove any residue there might be. The windshield should shine like new and be smooth to the touch when you are finished.

Tips & Warnings

If you get polish stuck in the cracks around your windshield, you can use a soft toothbrush to get it out gently.

Shallow cracks in your windshield (one's that don't catch a fingernail) can sometimes be polished out.

You may need to go over the windshield several times with the glass polish to get it to the desired smoothness.

You can purchase glass polishing kits like the one from Proper Auto Care to get most of the products you need in one package (see Resources below).

Whether a glass windshield is for an automobile, a motorcycle or a boat, you can use the same techniques to polish it.

Never work in direct sunlight when trying to polish a windshield.

Don't let the polishing agent come into contact with any of the painted surfaces on your vehicle.

Recomended Car Care :

Stoner 99011 Premium Glass Cleaning Kit
Meguiar's G1016 Smooth Surface Clay Kit
No Touch GS8 Auto Glass Stripper - 8 oz.

Easy way to wax a car

noreply@blogger.com (ogie) — Mon, 30 May 2011 05:44:00 +0000

It is good to get your car waxed every now and then. But you don’t really want to go to an auto spa. That could cost you well over $40 for one wax. Instead, learn how to wax a car yourself. Just need about an hour for time and your car can look just as good as if you took it to an auto spa.
Waxing gives your car natural shine and helps to protect the paint. When applied, the car wax forms a thin transparent layer over the car paint surface. The car wax covers minor scratches, stone chips and other damages, making them less visible. The wax also "seals" the paint, preventing water from contacting the bare metal exposed in deep scuffs, chips and scratches, slowing down the corrosion process.
For best results, a car wax needs to be reapplied regularly. From my observations, a good-quality car wax stays on the car for about three-four months.

If your car hasn't been waxed in a very long time, first, it make sense to take it to a local detailing shop, or you can visit your dealer (e.g. for an oil change) and ask for one of those detailing packages they offer. What they do, they buff the car with an electrical buffer using a special polishing compound with mild abrasive to remove light scratches, hard stains and other impurities of the paint finish. Then they wax the whole car. After your car has been detailed, you can simply re-apply wax every three months or so to keep it shiny.

Preparation

First pick out the right kind of wax. If you get a nonabrasive one, it is compatible with just about any kind of paint. And abrasive paints work for cars without shiny exteriors and dark surfaces.
After you got your wax, you’ll want to wash your car fully. Dish detergents should never be used for washing the exterior. They will strip your car of paint, leaving the outside naked.
You’ll want to use one of those commercial car washing products. Scrub carefully and make sure your car is thoroughly dry before using the wax you picked out.

Applying Car Wax

To know how to wax a car, you’ll need a high standard wax, a soft sponge, as well as a soft washcloth or towel. You might also want a cloth baby diaper for removing wax just in case. Waxing will go well so long as the surface of the car is cool. Make sure your car is parked in the shade. Before you begin, test your wax in a place that is not easily visible to make sure the substance won’t mess up the paint.
You’re going to start out with a little bit of wax on your sponge, and this is how to wax a car: start at the very top and work the sponge down. You’re going to do one part at a time, applying one thin layer of the wax on the cool surface in clockwise circular motions.
Try not to get the wax on places like the rubber door seals and black window trims. Wax will damage those places if you’re not careful.
Now you’re going to let the newly applied wax to haze. After that you’ll remove the wax. You’ll do this with an opposite, counter-clockwise motion using a dry washcloth.
Move from one section to the next and save the bottom for last. There is dirt left on the bottom parts. This is an essential part of how to wax a car.
When you’re finished, get rid of wax from the matte paint in places like the bumper and rubber door seals. With a new cloth, go over the car again to get any leftover wax.
To wax your car you will need some good quality wax (e.g. Carnauba wax), a small soft sponge and a clean soft cotton towel. Your car must be very clean and dry. I usually wax my car right after washing it at a coin car wash; the whole process of washing, drying and waxing takes about an hour.
Make sure to choose the right product - you need the wax with no abrasives. Read the product label and test it on some small area first.
Park your car somewhere in a shadow - usually it works better when the car surface is cool to the touch. Work on one section at the time, for example, on one fender or door.

If you use liquid wax, shake the bottle well before use. Apply small amount of wax to the sponge and spread it evenly on one section of the car. It's good idea to start from the top and do the bottom panels last because there is always some dirt left at the bottom.

You want to make a thin, even layer of wax. Try not to touch unpainted plastic and rubber surfaces (e.g. weatherstrips) with wax - it will leave white stains on them.

Allow the wax to haze (takes about a minute or two). Then buff it to a perfect shine with a clean soft towel, rotating it frequently - clean part of the towel works best.

After the whole car is done, clean the wax from unpainted plastic and rubber surfaces. A window spray cleaner will work well for this purpose.

I recommend to wax your car regularly - once in every three-four months. I tried many products and non of them stays permanently. Any car wax needs to be re-applied regularly.

Tips
When wax is applied regularly, the car’s surface is protected. The wax creates this thin coating that not only covers flaws in the paint, but protects the paint from wear. The effects of waxing generally lasts up to three months, so if you know anything about how to wax a car, make sure to keep it up every three months.
If you have to remove wax, use a different cloth so that you don’t end up re-waxing. This also helps to prevent streaking.
Be sure to cleanse out all your washcloths. It is a good idea to use fabric softener so that your towels and washcloths are soft for the next waxing.
One helpful tip to remember when you want to know how to wax a car is to bring your car to a detailer if the hasn’t been waxed it in a long while. After that you’ll be able to continue wax treatments at home.

Recommended product of Car Wax & Sealant to use :

Top 3 Waxes

Top 3 Spray Wax

1. Surf City Garage 100 Speed Demon Wax Detailer Spray
2. FLITZ Speed Waxx
3. Meguiar's G14422 Ultimate Quick Detailer

The Best Car Wax Reviews

noreply@blogger.com (ogie) — Fri, 20 May 2011 05:47:00 +0000

Waxing is a necessary step in maintaining your car. Washing removes dirt and grime on the car’s surface while Polishing removes paint aberrations like swirls and light scratches. Waxing on the other hand preserves your paint. It seals the paint from the outside world. Although it may not seem obvious the cars paints are filled with little holes which dirt and water can penetrate to form rust.

It is important for a car to be waxed to protect its paint from being damaged by the elements. Waxing twice a year will insure that your paint will survive the seasons. If you want longer lasting rust-free paint and a fresh look on car for your years to come then it is vital that you should wax.

Best Car Wax

Listed below are the three best car wax that are economical and widely available.

Meguair’s Hi Tech Yellow Wax

This Meguiar’s car wax product provides the best value and is widely available. Unlike the Pinnacle Souveran this paste wax product is a blend of yellow Carnauba, polymers and silicones. This makes it a synthetic wax as opposed to natural carnauba waxes.

Best suited as a car wax for black or darker colored cars the Meguiar’s Hi Tech Yellow Wax is known as Meguiar's M2611 #26 Yellow Wax Paste 11 oz.
to professional car detailers. It has taken a backseat to Meguiar’s own NXT 2.0 but the Meguiar’s #26 is the choice of professionals for black cars.

If you have a daily driven black car you may want to get this as it is priced well below $20 dollars. You can even find it for as low as $8 dollars online.

FX SynWax ( Product #20016 )

The MOTHERS 20011 FX SynWax Paste - 11 oz.
entry into the market. Instead of Carnauba wax the FX SynWax contains custom engineered polymers that bond with paint. The effect is protection especially with UV damage. This product is easy to remove and provides a shine that is durable.

Turtle Wax Super Hard Shell
( Product No. T-123R, T-222R, T-223R )

Coming in both Liquid and Paste forms the Turtle Wax T-223 Super Hard Shell Paste Wax. 9.5 oz.
is the most recognizable car wax in the world. Turtle Wax claims that it can last up to 12 months which is true for well maintained vehicles rarely parked in direct sunlight. Easy to apply and remove the Turtle Wax Super Hard Sell is a great product for those wanting a proven car wax.

3M Show Car Paste Wax

3M Show Car Paste Wax, 10.5 oz Can
have gained popularity among car enthusiasts. They are highly rated as a car wax company and offer a whole range of products to choose from. They carry Liquid, Paste and even Spray on Car waxes which are considered top notch. The versatility of 3M Wax and Quality that they have gained reputation for make them one of the best auto paint care companies out there.

Mothers Wax

Mothers started out with a polish for magnesium and aluminum tires back in the 70s. Today they offer a broad range of products and are best known for their carnauba based car wax. They offer a whole range of products based on this material. Their famous kit the Mothers 05500 California Gold Carnauba Cleaner Wax Paste - 12 oz
offers a complete carnauba wax based solution to providing the best protection for High End paint jobs

Turtle Wax Ice Liquid Polish

Arguably this is the most famous wax brand that ever existed. Turtle Wax has reached legendary status. It is like the Colgate of car waxes. Although they have met fierce competition from powerhouses like Meguiar’s and MOTHERS, Turtle Wax remains the most recognizable car wax brand. Their omnipresent green bottle of Turtle Wax Super Hard shell provides protection that lasts for 12 months. Turtle Wax has been innovating and has introduced new products lines like Turtle Wax T-468 Ice Liquid Polish, 16 ounces
.

Zymol Wax

Riding the success of its Creame Wax product, Zymol has created a product portfolio that spans the entire car care range. The Zymol Creame Wax
is a unique product because it actually is what they call a “zhyme” that turns into wax and bonds to your paint. This product contains probably the highest amount of wax by volume in all car wax products.

They also have specialty products like the Zymol Detail Aerodynamic Wax
which is meant for non metallic exterior surfaces like fiberglass and composite materials like ABS and polyurethane. This brand has a loyal following among some niche high end cars.
If you have some money maybe you can try the most expensive of Zymol wax, Zymol Royale Glaze

ChemicalGuys Wax

ChemicalGuys offers among the most unique products that act like car waxes. Although they use the word polish their products like E-zyme
which 59% by volume pure Brazilian grade number one non-bleached all natural carnauba palm wax from Northern Brazil and grade number one yellow carnauba wax gives E-zyme Natura the ability to shine like no other wax.. They however go one step better with ingredients in their wax that contain, “extra optical enhancers.” ChemicalGuys products are usually applied in layers and provide among the strongest reflective properties available in car wax products.
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The Best Polisher by costumer review

noreply@blogger.com (ogie) — Mon, 25 Apr 2011 05:11:00 +0000

Advanced Tool Design Model ATD-10511 7-Inch Polisher

Amazon.com Widgets

43 of 43 people found the following review helpful:
4.0 out of 5 stars Very solid product, March 13, 2008
By Michael James Wamback "Mystic Raven" (Venice, CA USA)
This review is from: Advanced Tool Design Model ATD-10511 7-Inch Polisher (Automotive)
Drive a classic 76 Trans Am - and get lots of scratches and chips on the bumpers from street parking. Wanted a decent polisher for removing occasional scratches and periodic repainting of bumpers. Was very impressed with this product. Seems nice and solid, 11 amp motor has lots of power. Very basic in terms of what comes with it - but for about $60.00 you don't expect a lot of extras. (Besides, extra pads and such are readily available at your local auto store for a few dollar.) Not unusual of polishers of this quality to be $150.00 to $250.00 or more. Slow start is a great feature. A bit on the heavy side - but I consider that a plus as it means less plastic. Comfortable to work with and speed seemed smooth. Tried it on a few scratches on my rear panel and it took them out with a bit of rubbing compound with almost no effort. If you want a quality product for home use and don't want to spend a fortune, then I would definitely recommend this polisher. Not much in the way of instructions, but not much assembly required and it was pretty easy to figure everything out. Since this is the first polisher I've used, I really have little to compare it to, but I am very happy with it and expect that you will be as well. Can't wait for my next full day off so I can grab this tool and give my car a great all-over detailing.

24 of 24 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars heavy, loud, powerful, helps develop `Popeye' arms . ., August 18, 2009
By trebe
This review is from: Advanced Tool Design Model ATD-10511 7-Inch Polisher (Automotive)
This buffer has plenty of power to get the job done, and appears to be well worth the money. Some minor assembly is required. There is a `manual' but it does not contain any instructions, instead it mostly covers general safety. Assembly is fairly simple. You first attach the curved top handle, either with or without, the straight side handle. The handle can be installed for either right or left hand operators. The buffer is top heavy, so installing the side handle is highly recommended.

This unit comes with the accessories to get started right away. For buffing, it has a wool pad, and rubber backing pad. For sanding, a Velcro backed hard plastic disc is included, but you will need to provide the sandpaper inserts. A special wrench for locking down the rubber backing pad is included.

Controls are pretty basic. There is a throttle switch on the bottom of the handle, with a lock button to keep the motor running. The speed control dial is on the top of the housing, and goes from 1 to 6 (maximum). The buffer starts to whine at around level 3, and gets screaming loud at full speed, when ear protection is definitely recommended. The amount of vibration will vary according to the task, and motor speed. When sanding or buffing fine dust is typically produced, so you may want to wear eye protection and a dust mask.

If you are into weightlifting, using the buffer on a vehicle may not be too difficult, but for those not so physically fit, managing the weight and vibration, could be a challenge. Because of the tool is about 18 inches long, your hands end up positioned about a foot apart, in order to keep the torque generated by the buffer under control. Just a little inattention can result in losing control, or dropping the buffer, and you don't want to hurt yourself, damage your paint job, dent your vehicle, or damage anything else.

The supplied wool buffer is quite thick, and does a pretty good job, but you do need to apply pressure for it to work. For the average sedan, buffing the hood and trunk should be the easiest. Things get harder when you do the sides, or curved or irregular surfaces, and have to both support the weight of the buffer, and apply pressure to the surface. Buffing non-flat areas usually requires changing angles, and varying the point of contact, and amount of pressure applied. Users will need to find the grip and techniques that work best. Buffing will require some finesse at times, and if your muscles are straining, this is when accidents can happen, or you can hurt yourself. Doing the roof can be tricky as well.

The listed weight of eight pounds, may not sound like a lot, but if you are bracing your body, locking your forearms, and squeezing hard on the handles for an extended period of time, you may find your muscles a bit sore, or in `shock' from the vibration, if you overdo it. Just go easy when using it for the first few times.

The pictured buffer has a blue plastic housing and black handle, but the unit also comes with an orange plastic housing. It has a ten foot cord with a twin blade plug, and comes with a set of spare brushes. The buffer does produce very good results, so if you have a strong back, and the upper body strength, it could be a very cool buy.

17 of 17 people found the following review helpful:
4.0 out of 5 stars Good Rotary Polisher, June 3, 2009
By A. Whidding "aw" (North Carolina)

This review is from: Advanced Tool Design Model ATD-10511 7-Inch Polisher (Automotive)
I initially bought the Porter Cable, but sent it back as it makes an awful lot of noise. I reluctantly bought the ATD next based on good reviews and what looked to be a good design in the pictures.

Unfortunately, I didn't realize the ATD is only a rotary and not dual-action (orbital). This probably explains the price difference from the PC as the quality here seems to be at least as good.

There are a few other things you should know that are not explained elsewhere -- like what comes in the box? Well there is a little assembly required actually, as the handles have to be attached. And then there are 2 disc plates. One is a 7 inch Velcro pad which simply screws on. It accepts the 8 inch Meguiar's pads, but not the new 2.0 pads which need a 6 inch plate like the PC. The 2nd plate comes with a wool bonnet attached as pictured. It's a little trickier to install, but not too bad with the supplied wrench. And that's about it! Well there are 2 replacement brushes for the motor (which I'm sure to lose before I need them). But there is no carrying case, no instructions (other than a safety booklet), no nothing.

And that's probably OK. The price is nice and the tool has worked well the first few times I've used it. I would recommend one other consideration though. You are going to need to buy pads for this thing. The wool bonnet can only do so much. I would take a look at the Meguiars Dual Action Complete Kit which includes a dual action polisher and a few pads to get you started. Sadly I didn't see it online until after I had used the ATD a few times, but next time...

Customer Reviews: 3M - Perfect-It Show Car Paste Wax

noreply@blogger.com (ogie) — Mon, 25 Apr 2011 04:39:00 +0000

Customer Reviews:
3M - Perfect-It Show Car Paste Wax, 10.5 oz.net wt. (39526)

Product Features

Shines and protects new and like new paint finishes, producing a deep rich high gloss, durable and lustrous
Ultra high gloss finish
Excellent for hand or machine use
Retards UV light damage and clear coat safe
10

Product Description
Product Description Shines and protects new and like-new paint finishes, producing a high gloss, lustrous, exceptionally durable "wet look" finish.

Costumer reviews about this product

Russ in Elk Grove :
I have been taking care of cars for over 40 years and this is my favorite wax. It is not as much work to apply as you might expect from a paste wax, and it is forgiving of being allowed to get very dry before buffing. It shines well and lasts a long time.

It is NOT, however, a polish. If you have oxidized paint, this will make it look worse, because it just improves your view of the cloudy oxidized surface. If your paint is oxidized, you need to use clay to polish off the oxidation before applying this wax.

excellent,

carlos

this wax is the only will you need to have is the best I've used for many years. no matter what other products promise this is the best out of 5 stars

This stuff is hot!,

Tommy (Charlotte, NC) -

Used it with my 3" orbital buffer. I started with my clean pre-owned Toyota buffed the surface with this then applied the Hang Glaze - buffed, the 3M Performance Wax - buffed (a synthetic non carnuba sealer) then 3M Show Car paste wax and buffed, and my car is gleaming! I am sure most pro orientated products will give similar results but I like this combination.

What Is The Best Car Wax?

noreply@blogger.com (ogie) — Tue, 12 Apr 2011 11:28:00 +0000

Here is our best stab at tackling the question, "What is the best car wax?" Send us your comments if you believe otherwise! Choosing the right wax or sealant is dependent on a couple of factors. Wax products usually are sold in liquid or paste form & contain blends of many waxes or just pure Carnauba wax. These products are generally less expensive and have to be reapplied more often. Polymer sealants, on the other hand, bond to the clear coat and last much longer. Although they cost more, we recommend these sealants because they give the same or better glossy finish with less work in the long run.

Top 3 Waxes

1. Meguiar's A-2216 Deep Crystal Carnuba Wax
2. Surf City Garage 150 Barrier Reef Carnauba Wax
3. Meguiar's M2611 #26 Yellow Wax Paste

Top 3 Sealants
1. Surf City Garage 701 Shine-On Sealer and Glaze System
2. Wizard's - Supreme Seal Paint Sealant (12oz) : 11500
3. MEGUIAR"S SYNTHETIC SEALANT 2.0

So what is the best car wax maintainer? Whether you use a Carnauba wax or a sealant, the best way to maintain that “just waxed” look is to use a spray wax. With an “easy on - easy off” application, these products will maintain the highest gloss without re-waxing every time. Spray waxes are applied and taken off with microfiber towels like Surf City Garage's Nano-Detail Polishing Cloths (3/pack) or Meguiar's X2020 Supreme Shine Microfiber - Pack of 3

Top 3 Spray Wax
1. Surf City Garage 100 Speed Demon Wax Detailer Spray
2. FLITZ Speed Waxx
3. Meguiar's G14422 Ultimate Quick Detailer

Proper Washing & Drying Technique

noreply@blogger.com (ogie) — Sat, 09 Apr 2011 00:52:00 +0000

Are you washing your car, or just damaging the paint?

Most of the swirl marks that disfigure your vehicle are likely caused by poor washing technique. Thorough weekly washes and careful hand-drying can be the best care you can give your vehicle. Improper techniques will cause unsightly swirls and scratches in the paint requiring compounding or polishing at the very least. You can eliminate these problems and save yourself extra work by following a few simple tips when washing and drying your vehicle.

Are you washing weekly or weakly?

Weekly washing is best because some contaminants quickly do serious long term damage to paint if they are allowed to remain. Two such organic compounds are bug remains and bird droppings.

These bio-hazards contain complex proteins that bond to the surface and organic acids that penetrate and break down the surface, eating into your clear coat if not removed promptly. Weak spots in the clear coat make your vehicle susceptible to corrosion and discoloration.

Another problem contaminant is brake dust. It contains metal shavings from the rotors and adhesives used in the production of brake pads. Try to picture the dirty plume of brake dust and roadway chemicals that travels along with a moving vehicle. This fog of chemicals shower the lower portion of your vehicle with a clinging, nearly invisible mist. Brake dust itself, is highly corrosive and very sticky. Washing your vehicle weekly will remove these contaminants before they have the opportunity to do unsightly permanent damage.

Wash Tools

First Never wash in direct sunlight. Pick a shady spot. Second it’s very important to choose tools that are gentle on the paint, yet still effective at removing contamination. As a rule of thumb, sponges and mitts that are plush or have a deep nap are better than flat weave towels or dense sponges. For example, a Natural Sea Sponge has numerous deep compartments where dirt and debris can accumulate. The natural fibers themselves will not scratch the paint and they will essentially pull contamination into the sponge’s openings, away from the paint. Always use the softer side of the sponge for washing. Rinse new sea sponges thoroughly before use to remove any shell fragments or sand.

Another option is a Sheepskin Wash Mitt. Sheepskin is extremely soft and plush. The fibers are gentle on the paint while the nap is deep enough to accommodate loose dirt and sand so they do not rub against the vehicle. Because sheepskin is natural, it does not last as long as a Microfiber mitts.However, for luxurious softness, you can’t beat the texture of sheepskin Microfiber wash mitts are another paint-safe option. Microfiber’s combination of polyester and polyamide make it capable of scrubbing the paint without scratching or swirling. It traps dirt and grit within the fibers rather than leaving them on the surface of your vehicle. Be sure to rinse the mitt frequently to release these particles.

Cotton chenille pads and mitts are also good choices because they clean easily and they last longer than sheepskin or natural sea sponges.

Proper Washing

1. Wash the wheels and tires first. If you splash wheel cleaners or dirt onto your vehicle, you can simply wash it off as you wash your vehicle. Use a cleaner that is safe for all wheels, like Wolfgang Tire & Wheel Cleaner. It is water-based and has no corrosive chemicals, which is safer for coated wheels and rubber. Agitate with a wheel brush to clean wheels without scratching. Wash each wheel and tire one at a time and rinse thoroughly before moving on to the next one. NOW EMPTY AND RINSE ALL CLEANING MARTERIALS including your Pinnacle Safe Scrub Bug & Tar Sponge and your wash bucket.

2. Now you’re ready to wash. Let’s start with clean water and a freshly rinsed

container and our Cobra Microfiber Wash Mitt. It’s important to use a car wash that is rich in lubricants. The purpose of the car wash is to remove contaminants and lubricate them so they do not scratch the paint as they slide off the vehicle. Dis

h detergents are not ideal because they remove protective coatings. P21S Bodywork Conditioning Shampoo, DP Auto Wash and Pinnacle Bodywork Shampoo are all fantastic choices. They do not remove wax and provide sample lubrication of gritty particles.

3. How do you prevent swirl marks? Use two buckets. Fill one bucket with soapy water and fill the other with clean water. Each time you’re ready to reload your sponge with soapy water, dip it in the clean water first, to rinse out the grit and contamination you’ve just removed from your vehicle.

Then dip it in the soapy water and continue washing.
An even better option is the Grit Guard. This plastic grid sits in the bottom of a 5-gallon wash bucket and stabilizes the water. Contamination and particles settle to the bottom of the bucket and the clean wash water remains at the top.

2. Now you’re ready to wash. Let’s start with clean water and a freshly rinsed container and our Cobra Microfiber Wash Mitt. It’s important to use a car wash that is rich in lubricants. The purpose of the car wash is to remove contaminants and lubricate them so they do not scratch the paint as they slide off the vehicle. Dish detergents are not ideal because they remove protective coatings. P21S Bodywork Conditioning Shampoo, DP Auto Wash and Pinnacle Bodywork Shampoo are all fantastic choices. They do not remove wax and provide ample lubrication of gritty particles.

3. How do you prevent swirl marks? Use two buckets. Fill one bucket with soapy water and fill the other with clean water. Each time you’re ready to reload your sponge with soapy water, dip it in the clean water first, to rinse out the grit and contamination you’ve just removed from your vehicle. Then dip it in the soapy water and continue washing. An even better option is the Grit Guard. This plastic grid sits in the bottom of a 5-gallon wash bucket and stabilizes the water. Contamination and particles settle to the bottom of the bucket and the clean wash water remains at the top.

4. Always rinse your vehicle thoroughly before you begin washing in order to remove loose debris. Then begin washing at the top of the vehicle. Wash down the vehicle as opposed to front to back. Remember that the lower panels are dirtiest. You want to clean the

windows and the upper panels before cleaning the lower half of the vehicle so that you don’t transfer grit to the top h

alf of the vehicle. Rinse and reload your Sponge often to prevent cross-contamination. Rinse your vehicle frequently as you work, especially in hot weather.

For stubborn spots, like bugs or tar, use the Pinnacle Safe Scrub Bug & Tar Sponge to gently remove sticky contaminants without scratching. To soften the sponge, soak it in warm water for 3 minutes. Always use it with soapy water to lubricate the sponge. If you choose to use a spot cleaner, spray it on before washing and reapply wax to the treated area after you’ve dried the vehicle.

5. When rinsing, you don’t have to blast your car clean with the water hose. Free-flowing water (no nozzle) will allow the water to sheet off of your vehicle for a more thorough rinsing.

Drying

Never skip drying! Drying your vehicle after washing is necessary to prevent water spots. Water spots are caused by mineral deposits that etch the outline of a drop of water into your vehicle’s paint. All water has minerals, whether it’s from the hose or the sky. As the water evaporates, the minerals remain on the surface and they will eventually, invariably create water spots.

You can dry your vehicle in a variety of ways, but you want to make sure you do it quickly. The fastest way to remove excess water is with a California Water Blade. This is a “paint-safe” squeegee that pull 80% of the water off the surface of your vehicle. They are made of soft, medical-grade silicone so they will not scratch your paint or glass. Use the blade on the windows first, since water spots are most noticeable there. Or for a TOTALLY TURBO-CHARGED fast drying experience go with Metro Vac N’Blo for a flawless finish. This is the ultimate detailing tool, for clean up and dry down. This portable unit comes complete with a four piece micro-cleaning tool kit, shoulder strap and blower nozzle.

If you use a California Water Blade you still need to use a towel to remove the rest of the water. The Guzzler is a large 20" x 40" microfiber towel that is manufactured with awaffle-weave texture. This weave increases the surface area so the towel can absorb more water. It can absorb 7 times its own weight in moisture, and it’s completely nonabrasive. Microfiber towels come in a number of sizes and they can be altered for a specific purpose. For example, the Cobra Waffle-Weave Glass Towel will clean and dry glass without streaks. Microfiber is more absorbent than terry cloth or chamois, and it lasts longer.

Terry cloth towels are not recommended because the fibers can become matted and hard after repeated uses. They shed lint. They increase the chance of swirls. Compared to microfiber, they are not as absorbent and they don’t last as long. Never use bath towels that have been discarded from the house. They are probably not soft or paint safe. All Cobra Microfiber Towels are engineered to be LINT-FREE!
You may also use a genuine or synthetic chamois. The Prince of Wales Chamois is 100% leather and it’s extremely soft. Its luxurious texture makes it a pleasure to use, but it will not last as long as a synthetic chamois. Do not continue using it after it becomes hard.

Drying Tips

1. Dry the windows and mirrors first. A series of careful firm strokes with your California Water Blade will remove any remaining water.

2. Use the large The Supreme Guzzler to remove the majority of water from your vehicle. This towel measures 20”x 40” and it absorbs seven times its own weight in moisture. Go back over the vehicle with a smaller towel, like the The Guzzler(16”x 24”) to catch any water the large towel may have missed. This quick two-step process will leave your vehicle bone-dry and ready for wax.

3. Once the outside is dry, wipe down all your door jambs. Open the trunk and hood to wipe the jambs. Our Cobra Microfiber Starter Kit can get your vehicle dry and spotless with the best in LINT-FREE drying technology.

4. Dry your wheels using a towel or chamois that is designated just for this purpose. Don’t use this towel on your paint to avoid cross-contamination. You may also use this towel to wipe off surfaces under the hood. Wash this towel before you use it again.

The Finishing Touch

Use a spray wax or spray sealant like Mothers Showtime Detailer orWolfgang Deep Gloss Spritz Sealant to rejuvenate the shine of your existing wax. Skip this step if you are going to apply another coat of wax. The ultimate in finishing detail kits is the Pinnacle –Wolfgang Souverän Kit; two premium brands come together to make the ultimate detailing kit.

The Foam Gun Option

If the hose and bucket method isn't for you, there's the foam gun option.

The idea behind a foam gun is that it presoaks the vehicle in suds to start loosening grime and lubricating the paint right

away. And truth be told, it's a lot of fun to use a foam gun. Wolfgang has three foam gun options:

The Foamaster Foam Gun works with your water hose to deliver the soapy water to the vehicle. The Foamaster's tip helps boost water pressure to put a little power behind the delivery.
The Tornador Air Foamer HP is a high powered foam gun that works with any air compressor capable of producing 60-90 psi. The Tornador uses very little water so it's a good idea to hose down the vehicle first. Then let the foam fly! The Tornador create fluffy, air-filled foam.

The Foam Cannon HP work with a pressure washer. The Foam Cannon HP blasts a mixture of water and soap through the tip at a high pressure to release a lot of grime immediately. This foam gun uses less water than a hose, but packs a lot of pressure. The foam produced is not as light as the Tornador, but it clings very well.

Clean Water Makes for a Clean Car

If you’re taking all the precautions every time you wash your vehicle and you’re still getting spots and swirls, the problem may be the water.

No water is pure. All water has minerals and most has some form of sediment. If your car shampoo (or hair shampoo) doesn’t lather well and your faucets and fixtures tend to turn green, you’ve got hard water. If water will not sheet off your vehicle and you’re constantly battling water spots, you’ve got hard water. Hard water is mainly caused by calcium and magnesium, which can be removed with a water softener.

Sediment is another common enemy of any paint finish. Sediment is actually dirt and rust in the water line. Water treatment plants filter out sediment but more sediment can enter the pipes between the plant and your home. This is why household faucets have screens in them. If you have well water, beware. You most likely have sediment and hardwater.

A Clear Inline Hose Filter will clean and soften the water before it reaches your vehicle. Connect it to any standard garden hose hooked up to an exterior spigot. Insert a 5 micron sediment filter or a water softener cartridge to address your specific water problem. The filter is easy to install and its cost is nominal compared to amount of time and money you’ll save on paint care.

If you’ve got both water problems, get two hose filters so you can filter out sediment and soften the water before it exits the hose. The Deluxe Filter System includes everything you need to set up this simple, two-step filtration system. With a little preventative maintenance, your vehicle will rinse clean and have less water-related micro-marring.

Check out all the great tools and products we have to clean your vehicle right on our Washing page!

originally tips by autogeek

great thanx to autogeek

Gebyar Akhir Tahun 2009 menuju Tahun Baru 2010

noreply@blogger.com (ogie) — Mon, 14 Dec 2009 03:21:00 +0000

bagi netter, facebooker buruan datang mumpung ada diskon, BILANG SAJA KALO TAU KEMPLINK DARI MEDIA INTERNET

Diskon
10% untuk pengambilan FULL TREATMENT DETAILING khusus Facebooker, Netter. diskon sampai JANUARI 2010
hub. sdr ogie tlp 021 - 95649483
Kemplink on Facebook
buruan datang...HADAPI TAHUN BARU 2010 DENGAN MOBIL KINCLONG MENGKILAT
SEPERTI BARU....

kemPlink Auto Detailing / THE PADDOCK

How to Remove Scratches from Car

MAINTAINING YOUR CAR'S PERFECT SHINE

How to Use Car Detailing Wax

Tools and Materials

Step One - Selecting Your Wax

Step Two - Preparing Your Vehicle

Step Three - Applying Wax

Step Four - Buffing

Automotive Detailing Supplies and Equipment

Use a Rubbing Compound on Paint

Instructions

Car Tire Cleaning Tips

Hosing Down

Special Tire Soap

UV Protectant Spray

How Often Should You Wax a Car?

Frequency of Waxing

The Bead Test

Applying Wax

Don't Overwax

Fixing Problem Spots

Remove Yellow Stains From Chrome Rims

Instructions

Cleans Water Spots Off Cars & Windows

Tips to Clay Bar Your Car

How to Compound & Buff

Top 3 Waxes

Top 3 Spray Wax

Essentials to start an Automotive Detailing Business

The High End Car Wax reviews

How to Apply Car Scratch Remover

Car Polishing and Waxing

Automotive Interior Detailing Process

Car Washing Tips

Top 3 Waxes

How to Polish a Glass Windshield

Easy way to wax a car

Top 3 Waxes

Top 3 Spray Wax

The Best Car Wax Reviews

The Best Polisher by costumer review

Customer Reviews: 3M - Perfect-It Show Car Paste Wax

Customer Reviews: 3M - Perfect-It Show Car Paste Wax, 10.5 oz.net wt. (39526) <a HREF="http://ws.amazon.com/widgets/q?rt=tf_mfw&ServiceVersion=20070822&MarketPlace=US&ID=V20070822%2FUS%2Fscootermania-20%2F8001%2F63fa59e3-86b3-4b50-a91e-3985723105f6&Operation=NoScript">Amazon.com Widgets</A>

Product Features

What Is The Best Car Wax?

Top 3 Waxes

Proper Washing & Drying Technique

Proper Washing

Clean Water Makes for a Clean Car

Gebyar Akhir Tahun 2009 menuju Tahun Baru 2010

Customer Reviews:
3M - Perfect-It Show Car Paste Wax, 10.5 oz.net wt. (39526)