Ketty Schott Design

Home party decoration

2016-01-26T10:51:00.001-08:00

Home party decoration easy

granny square stitch

2015-11-30T19:14:00.001-08:00

granny square stitch
How to make granny square asdf

blanket afghan

2015-11-30T18:53:00.000-08:00

blanket afghan

Cupcake Custom

2015-11-02T09:08:00.001-08:00

Cupcake Custom
I was invited to a Bunco party, and once I knew what Bunco was, I got the great idea to make cupcakes...

I started with fondant to make dice...

Then I cheated on the cupcakes, I used a box ! I ran out of time after making the dice, but I did make the Strawberry Buttercream.

And Ta Da I had cute cupcakes to take to the party. They were chocolate cake with strawberry buttercream. I think they came out very cute!! and the party was a blast. Thanks Jody

hats

2015-11-02T07:39:00.000-08:00

Afghan blanket

2015-11-01T13:16:00.000-08:00

SKILL LEVEL: Easy + (Level 3)

SIZE: One Size

About 39 x 59 in. (99 x 150 cm)

GAUGE:
14 hdc = about 4 in. (10 cm).
1 square = about 9 3/4 x 9 3/4 in. (25 x 25 cm).

When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. The needle or hook size called for in the pattern is based on what the designer used, but it is not unusual for gauge to vary from person to person. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make your swatch, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

Making a Gauge Swatch
NOTES:
1. 24 Squares are worked individually.
2. Each Square is worked 'Log Cabin' style, by beginning with a center square, then working 'logs' around the center.
3. Each Square uses 5 colors, beginning at the center with A. One side of each Square is worked with light colors and the other side with dark colors.
4. Squares are sewn tog following a diagram; be sure to turn Squares in the direction shown on diagram to make the 'arrow' effect.
5. To change yarn color, work last st of old color to last yarn over. Yarn over with new color and draw through all loops to complete st. Fasten off old color and proceed with new color.
6. If desired, work over yarn ends as you go to save having to weave them all in at the end.

AFGHAN
Square 1
Center
With A, ch 11.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across – you will have 10 sts at the end of Row 1.
Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), turn, hdc in each st across – 10 sts.
Rows 3-7: Rep Row 2, changing to C at the end of Row 7.

First Log
Row 1 (RS): With C, ch 1, work 10 sc evenly spaced along side edge of Center Square – 10 sts.
Rows 2 and 3: Rep Row 2 of Center – 10 sts.

2nd Log
Row 1 (RS): With C, ch 1, work 4 sc evenly spaced along side edge of First Log, work 10 sc evenly spaced across lower edge of Center – 14 sts.
Rows 2 and 3: Rep Row 2 of Center, changing to I at the end of Row 3 – 14 sts.

3rd Log
Row 1 (RS): With I, ch 1, work 4 sc evenly spaced along side edge of 2nd Log, work 10 sc evenly spaced along side edge of Center – 14 sts.
Rows 2 and 3: Rep Row 2 of Center – 14 sts.

4th Log
Row 1 (RS): With I, ch 1, work 4 sc evenly spaced along side edge of 3rd Log, work 10 sc evenly spaced across top edge of Center Square, work 4 sc evenly spaced along side edge of 2nd log – 18 sts.
Rows 2 and 3: Rep Row 2 of Center, changing to F at the end of Row 3 – 18 sts.

5th Log
Row 1 (RS): With F, ch 1, work 4 sc evenly spaced across side edge of 4th Log, work 10 sts evenly spaced across top edge of First Log, work 4 sts evenly spaced along side edge of 2nd Log – 18 sts.
Rows 2 and 3: Rep Row 2 of Center – 18 sts.

6th Log
Row 1 (RS): With F, ch 1, work 4 sc evenly spaced across side edge of 5th Log, work 14 sts evenly spaced across top edge of 2nd Log, work 4 sts evenly spaced along side edge of 3rd Log – 22 sts.
Rows 2 and 3: Rep Row 2 of Center, changing to G at the end of Row 3 – 22 sts.

7th Log
Row 1 (RS): With G, ch 1, work 4 sc evenly spaced across side edge of 6th Log, work 14 sts evenly spaced across top edge of 3rd Log, work 4 sts evenly spaced along side edge of 4th Log – 22 sts.
Rows 2 and 3: Rep Row 2 of Center – 22 sts.

8th Log
Row 1 (RS): With G, ch 1, work 4 sc evenly spaced along side edge of 7th Log, work 18 sts evenly spaced across top edge of 4th Log, work 4 sts evenly spaced along side edge of 5th Log – 26 sts.
Rows 2 and 3: Rep Row 2 of Center, changing to C at the end of Row 3 – 26 sts.

9th Log
Row 1 (RS): With C, ch 1, work 4 sc evenly spaced along side edge of 8th Log, work 18 sts evenly spaced across top edge of 5th Log, work 4 sc evenly spaced along side edge of 6th Log – 26 sts.
Rows 2 and 3: Rep Row 2 of Center – 26 sts.

10th Log
Row 1 (RS): With C, ch 1, work 4 sc evenly spaced along side edge of 9th Log, work 22 sts evenly spaced across top edge of 6th Log, work 4 sc evenly spaced along side edge of 7th Log – 30 sts.
Rows 2 and 3: Rep Row 2 of Center, changing to I at the end of Row 3 – 30 sts.

11th Log
Row 1 (RS): With I, ch 1, work 4 sc evenly spaced along side edge of 10th Log, work 22 sts evenly spaced across top edge of 7th Log, work 4 sc evenly spaced along side edge of 8th Log – 30 sts.
Rows 2 and 3: Rep Row 2 of Center – 30 sts.

12th Log
Row 1 (RS): With I, ch 1, work 4 sc evenly spaced along side edge of 11th Log, work 26 sts evenly spaced across top edge of 8th Log, work 4 sc evenly spaced along side edge of 9th Log – 34 sts.
Rows 2 and 3: Rep Row 2 of Center – 34 sts.
Fasten off.

Square 2
Work Center with A, First and 2nd Logs with B, 3rd and 4th with J, 5th and 6th with E, 7th and 8th with G, 9th and 10th with B, 11th and 12th with J.

Square 3
Work Center with A, First and 2nd Logs with C, 3rd and 4th with K, 5th and 6th with F, 7th and 8th with H, 9th and 10th with C, 11th and 12th with K.

Square 4
Work Center with A, First and 2nd Logs with B, 3rd and 4th with H, 5th and 6th with F, 7th and 8th with I, 9th and 10th with B, 11th and 12th with H.

Square 5
Work Center with A, First and 2nd Logs with D, 3rd and 4th with K, 5th and 6th with B, 7th and 8th with G, 9th and 10th with D, 11th and 12th with K.

Squares 6 and 20
Work Center with A, First and 2nd Logs with E, 3rd and 4th with J, 5th and 6th with F, 7th and 8th with G, 9th and 10th with E, 11th and 12th with J.

Square 7
Work Center with A, First and 2nd Logs with C, 3rd and 4th with K, 5th and 6th with F, 7th and 8th with G, 9th and 10th with C, 11th and 12th with K.

Squares 8 and 17
Work Center with A, First and 2nd Logs with D, 3rd and 4th with I, 5th and 6th with B, 7th and 8th with H, 9th and 10th with D, 11th and 12th with I.

Square 9
Work Center with A, First and 2nd Logs with C, 3rd and 4th with H, 5th and 6th with D, 7th and 8th with J, 9th and 10th with C, 11th and 12th with H.

Square 10
Work Center with A, First and 2nd Logs with D, 3rd and 4th with K, 5th and 6th with E, 7th and 8th with H, 9th and 10th with D, 11th and 12th with K.

Square 11
Work Center with A, First and 2nd Logs with C, 3rd and 4th with H, 5th and 6th with E, 7th and 8th with J, 9th and 10th with C, 11th and 12th with H.

Square 12
Work Center with A, First and 2nd Logs with B, 3rd and 4th with I, 5th and 6th with F, 7th and 8th with G, 9th and 10th with B, 11th and 12th with I.

Square 13
Work Center with A, First and 2nd Logs with B, 3rd and 4th with J, 5th and 6th with E, 7th and 8th with H, 9th and 10th with B, 11th and 12th with J.

Square 14
Work Center with A, First and 2nd Logs with B, 3rd and 4th with H, 5th and 6th with D, 7th and 8th with K, 9th and 10th with B, 11th and 12th with H.

Square 15
Work Center with A, First and 2nd Logs with D, 3rd and 4th with I, 5th and 6th with B, 7th and 8th with G, 9th and 10th with D, 11th and 12th with I.

Square 16
Work Center with A, First and 2nd Logs with B, 3rd and 4th with G, 5th and 6th with E, 7th and 8th with J, 9th and 10th with B, 11th and 12th with G.

Square 18
Work Center with A, First and 2nd Logs with D, 3rd and 4th with H, 5th and 6th with C, 7th and 8th with K, 9th and 10th with D, 11th and 12th with H.

Square 19
Work Center with A, First and 2nd Logs with C, 3rd and 4th with H, 5th and 6th with D, 7th and 8th with I, 9th and 10th with C, 11th and 12th with H.

Square 21
Work Center with A, First and 2nd Logs with D, 3rd and 4th with G, 5th and 6th with B, 7th and 8th with K, 9th and 10th with D, 11th and 12th with G.

Square 22
Work Center with A, First and 2nd Logs with C, 3rd and 4th with I, 5th and 6th with D, 7th and 8th with G, 9th and 10th with C, 11th and 12th with I.

Square 23
Work Center with A, First and 2nd Logs with B, 3rd and 4th with G, 5th and 6th with D, 7th and 8th with K, 9th and 10th with B, 11th and 12th with G.

Square 24
Work Center with A, First and 2nd Logs with C, 3rd and 4th with J, 5th and 6th with E, 7th and 8th with H, 9th and 10th with C, 11th and 12th with J.

FINISHING
Following diagram, sew Squares into 4 strips of 6 Squares each. Sew strips tog to make Afghan.
Border
From RS, join A with a sl st in any st along outside edge of Afghan.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, work sc evenly spaced around entire outside edge of Afghan, working 3 sc in each corner; join with sl st in first sc.
Rnd 2 (WS): Ch 1, turn, working through front loops only, sl st in each st around; join with sl st in first st.
Fasten off.
Weave in ends.

ABBREVIATIONS / REFERENCES

beg = begin(s)(ning) ch(s) = chain(s)
hdc = half double crochet rep = repeat(s)(ing)
rnd(s) = round(s) RS = right side
sc = single crochet sl st = slip stitch
st(s) = stitch(es) tog = together

source - Log Cabin Arrow Afghan

Cabled Long Cardigan

2015-11-01T13:07:00.000-08:00

SKILL LEVEL: Intermediate (Level 3)

SIZE: Small, Medium, Large, 1X, 2X, 3X

Finished Bust About 55 1/2 (61 1/2, 66 1/2, 72 1/2, 78 1/2, 84 1/2) in. (141 (156, 170, 184, 199.5, 214.5) cm
Finished Length About 43 1/2 (44, 44 1/2, 45, 45 1/2, 46) in. (110.5 (112, 113, 114.5, 115.5, 117) cm)

Note: Pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. To follow pattern more easily, circle all numbers pertaining to your size before beginning.

GAUGE:
18 sts + 20 rows = 4 in. (10 cm) in Honeycomb pattern with 2 strands of yarn held tog and larger needles.

When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. The needle or hook size called for in the pattern is based on what the designer used, but it is not unusual for gauge to vary from person to person. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make your swatch, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

Making a Gauge Swatch
STITCH EXPLANATION:
2/2 LC (2 over 2 left cross) Slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold in front of work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.
2/2 RC (2 over 2 right cross) Slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold in back of work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.
kfb (knit in front and back) Knit next st without removing it from left needle, then k through back of same st – 1 st increased.

PATTERN STITCHES
K1, p1 Rib (worked over an odd number of sts)
Row 1: K1, *p1, k1; rep from * to end of row.
Row 2: K the knit sts and p the purl sts.
Rep Row 2 for K1, p1 Rib.

Honeycomb Pattern (worked over a multiple of 8 sts)
Row 1 (RS): Knit.
Row 2 and All WS Rows: Purl.
Row 3: *2/2 RC, 2/2 LC; rep from *.
Row 5: Knit.
Row 7: *2/2 LC, 2/2 RC; rep from *.
Row 8: Purl.
Rep Rows 1-8 for Honeycomb pattern.

NOTES:
1. Cardigan is worked in 7 pieces, Back, 2 Fronts and 2 Sleeves in a Honeycomb pattern and 2 Pocket Linings.
2. Two strands of yarn are held together and used as one unless otherwise noted.
3. A circular needle is used to accommodate the large number of sts. Work back and forth on the circular needle as if working on straight needles.
4. This pattern contains the words, AT THE SAME TIME, in several places. Don't worry! This simply means that you will be doing 2 things at once – shaping both the neck and the armhole for example. Just keep careful track of where you are in the pattern and you shouldn't have any difficulty.
5. End with a WS row means that the last row you work should be a WS row, and the next row that you are ready to work will be a RS row.
6. When you see "– 12 sts" in the instructions, this lets you know how many sts you will have at the end of that specific row.

BACK
With smaller needle and 2 strands of yarn held tog, cast on 99 (107, 115, 123, 139, 147) sts.
Working back and forth in rows on circular needle, work in K1, p1 rib for 3 1/2 in. (9 cm), end with a WS row as the last row you work, inc 15 sts spaced as evenly as possible across last row – you will have 114 (122, 130, 138, 154, 162) sts.
Change to larger needle.
Row 1 (RS): K1, work Row 1 of Honeycomb pattern to last st, k1.
Keeping first and last st in St st (k on RS, p on WS) and rem sts in Honeycomb pattern, work until piece measures about 33 in. (84 cm) from beg, end with a WS row as the last row you work.
Shape Armholes
Bind off 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9) sts at beg of next 4 rows, 3 (4, 5, 6, 7, 8) sts at beg of next 2 rows, 2 (2, 2, 2, 4, 4) sts at beg of next 4 rows, then 1 st at beg of next 2 (4, 4, 6, 6, 8) rows – 82 (82, 84, 84, 86, 86) sts rem after all bind offs have been work.
Keeping first and last sts in St st and rem sts in Honeycomb pattern as established, work until armholes measure 9 (9 1/2, 10, 10 1/2, 11, 11 1/2) in. (23 (24, 25.5, 26.5, 28, 29) cm), end with a WS row as the last row you work.
Shape Neck and Shoulders
Mark center 24 sts for back neck.
Row 1 (RS): Bind off 8 (8, 9, 9, 10, 10) sts, work to center 24 sts, join another 2 balls of yarn and bind off center 24 sts for neck, work to end of row – 21 sts for right shoulder; 29 (29, 30, 30, 31, 31) sts for left shoulder.
Row 2: Working both sides AT THE SAME TIME, each side with 2 strands of yarn (2 balls of yarn on each side), bind off 8 (8, 9, 9, 10, 10) sts, purl to end of left shoulder; p2tog, purl to end of right shoulder – 21 sts for left shoulder; 20 sts for right shoulder.
Row 3: Bind off 7 sts, work to end of right shoulder; k2tog, work to end of left shoulder – 13 sts for right shoulder; 20 sts for left shoulder.
Row 4: Bind off 7 sts, purl to end of lefts; purl to end of right shoulder – 13 sts for each shoulder.
Row 5: Bind off 7 sts, work to end of right shoulder; work to end of row for Left Shoulder – 6 sts for right shoulder; 13 sts for left shoulder.
Row 6: Bind off 7 sts, purl to end of left shoulder; purl to end of right shoulder – 6 sts for each shoulder.
Row 7: Bind off all sts for right shoulder; work to end of row for left shoulder – 6 sts for left shoulder.
Row 8: Bind off 6.

POCKET LININGS (Make 2)
With smaller needle and just one strand of yarn, cast on 25 sts.
Work in St st (knit on RS, purl on WS) until piece measures 10 in. (25.5 cm) from beg, end with a WS row as the last row you work.
Slip sts to a st holder.

LEFT FRONT
Note: Both the Left and the Right Front have knit in pockets. To add the pockets, you'll simply bind off some sts on the Front – this makes the opening edge of the pocket. On the following row, you'll work across the pocket lining sts, thus joining them to the Front. The lining will be sewn down later, when you sew the Cardigan together.

With smaller needle and 2 strands of yarn held tog, cast on 57 (65, 73, 81, 89, 97) sts.
Working back and forth in rows on circular needle, work in K1, p1 rib for 3 1/2 in. (9 cm), end with a WS row as the last row you work,, inc 9 sts as evenly spaced as possible across last row – you will have 66 (74, 82, 90, 98, 106) sts.
Change to larger needle.
Row 1 (RS): K1, work Row 1 of Honeycomb pattern to last st, k1.
Keeping first and last st in St st and rem sts in Honeycomb pattern, work until piece measures about 22 in. (56 cm) from beg, end with a WS row as the last row you work.
Join Pocket
Next Row (RS): Work 24 (32, 40, 48, 56, 64) sts, bind off next 25 sts for pocket, work to end of row.
Next Row: Work 17 sts as established, work across 25 sts of one pocket lining from st holder, work to end of row – 66 (74, 82, 90, 98, 106) sts.
Keeping first and last st in St st and rem sts in Honeycomb pattern, work until piece measures about 28 in. (71 cm) from beg, end with a WS row as the last row you work.
Shape Neck
Neck Dec Row (RS): Work as established to last 2 sts, k2tog – 65 (73, 81, 89, 97, 105) sts rem.
Keeping first and last st in St st and rem sts in Honeycomb pattern, rep Neck Dec Row on every RS row 21 (25, 29, 33, 33, 37) more times AT THE SAME TIME, when piece measures 33 in. (84 cm) from beg, end with a WS row and beg to shape armhole as follows:
(Note: You will be continuing the neck shaping AND shaping the armhole at the same time. This isn't hard to do – you just need to keep careful count on where you are in the pattern st, and in the various shapings. You may have an app for this – but if not, pencil and paper will work fine!)
Shape Armhole
Bind off 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9) sts at beg of next RS row 2 times, then bind off 3 (4, 5, 6, 7, 8) sts at beg of next RS row, 2 (2, 2, 2, 4, 4) sts at beg of next RS row 2 times, then 1 st at beg of next RS row 1 (2, 2, 3, 3, 4) time(s).
Keeping first and last sts in St st and rem sts in Honeycomb pattern as established, work until armhole measures same as Back armhole, end with a WS row as the last row you work – 28 (28, 29, 29, 30, 30) sts rem when all shaping has been done.
Shape Shoulder
Bind off 8 (8, 9, 9, 10, 10) sts at beg of the next RS row, 7 sts at beg of next RS row 2 times.
At beg of next RS row, bind off rem sts.

RIGHT FRONT
Cast on and work as for Left Front to Join Pocket.
Join Pocket
Next Row (RS): Work 17 sts, bind off 25 sts, work 24 (32, 40, 48, 56, 64) sts.
Next Row: Work 24 (32, 40, 48, 56, 64) sts, work across 25 sts of one pocket lining from st holder, work to end of row – 66 (74, 82, 90, 98, 106) sts.
Keeping first and last st in St st and rem sts in Honeycomb pattern, work until piece measures about 28 in. (71 cm) from beg, end with a WS row as the last row you work.
Shape Neck
Neck Dec Row (RS): K2tog, work to end of row – 65 (73, 81, 89, 97, 105) sts rem.
Keeping first and last st in St st and rem sts in Honeycomb pattern, rep Neck Dec Row every other row 21 (25, 29, 33, 33, 37) more times, AT THE SAME TIME, when piece measures same length as Left Front to armhole, end with a RS row as the last row you work.
Shape Armhole
Bind off 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9) sts at beg of next WS row 2 times, then bind off 3 (4, 5, 6, 7, 8) sts at beg of next WS row, 2 (2, 2, 2, 4, 4) sts at beg of next WS row 2 times, then 1 st at beg of next WS row 1 (2, 2, 3, 3, 4) time(s).
Keeping first and last sts in St st and rem sts in Honeycomb pattern as established, work until armhole measures same as Back armhole, end with a RS row as the last row you work – 28 (28, 29, 29, 30, 30) sts rem when all shaping has been done.
Shape Shoulder
Bind off 8 (8, 9, 9, 10, 10) sts at beg of next WS row, 7 sts at beg of next WS row 2 times.
At beg of next WS row, bind off rem sts.

SLEEVES (make 2)
With smaller needle and 2 strands of yarn held tog, cast on 59 (59, 59, 67, 67, 67) sts.
Beg with Row 1, work in K1, p1 rib for 3 1/2 in. (9 cm), end with a WS row as last row worked, inc 7 sts as evenly spaced as possible along last row – 66 (66, 66, 74, 74, 74) sts on last row worked.
Change to larger needle.
Row 1 (RS): K1, work Row 1 of Honeycomb pattern to last st, k1.
Keeping first and last st in St st and rem sts in Honeycomb pattern, work 6 more rows.
Inc Row (RS): Kfb, work to last st, kfb – 68 (68, 68, 76, 76, 76) sts.
Rep Inc Row every 8th row 0 (1, 3, 1, 5, 7) time(s), working increased sts in St st until you have increased enough sts to work them into the Honeycomb pattern, until piece measures 18 in. (45.5 cm) from beg, end with a WS row as the last row you work.
Shape Top of Sleeve
Bind off 4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5) sts at beg of next 4 rows, 3 sts at beg of next 4 rows, 2 sts at beg of next 8 rows, then 1 st at beg of next 14 (16, 20, 22, 24, 28) rows – 10 (10, 10, 12, 14, 14) sts rem after all bind offs have been worked.
Bind off.

FINISHING
Sew shoulder seams.
Sew in Sleeves. Sew side and Sleeve seams. With RS together, fold Pocket Linings in half and sew cast-on edge to bind-off edge of pocket opening on each Front. Sew side edges of Pocket Linings closed.
Pocket Edging
From RS with smaller, shorter needle and 2 strands of yarn held tog, pick up and k25 sts along bind-off edge of pocket opening.
Work in K1, p1 rib for 6 rows.
Bind off in rib.
Rep for opposite pocket.
Sew sides of pocket edgings to Fronts.
Mark for 5 buttons spaced evenly along Left Front edge with first at beg of neck shaping and last 5 in. (12.5 cm) above lower edge.
Frontband
From RS with smaller needle, and 2 strands of yarn held tog, beg at lower edge of Right Front, pick up and k283 (291, 299, 307, 315, 323) sts as evenly spaced as possible up Right Front, around Back neck and down edge of Left Front, ending at lower edge of Left Front – 283 (291, 299, 307, 315, 323) sts.
Work in K1, p1 rib for 3 rows.
Buttonhole Row (RS): Continue in K1, p1 rib, binding off 3 sts at each button marker.
Next Row: Work in K1, p1 rib, casting on 3 sts above bind-off sts of previous row.
Work 2 more rows in K1, p1 rib.
Bind off.
Sew buttons opposite buttonholes.
Weave in ends.

ABBREVIATIONS / REFERENCES

beg = begin(s)(ning) dec = decreas(e)(s)(ing)
inc = increas(e)(s)(ing) k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 together p = purl
p2tog = purl 2 together rem = remain(s)(ing)
rep = repeat(s)(ing) RS = right side
St st = Stockinette stitch st(s) = stitch(es)
tog = together WS = wrong side

source - Chillingworth Cabled Long Cardigan

Cabled Rectangles Poncho

2015-11-01T12:54:00.000-08:00

SKILL LEVEL: Easy + (Level 3)

SIZE: One Size

Finished Circumference at neck edge About 25 in. (63.5 cm)
Finished Circumference of lower edge About 98 in. (249 cm)

RECTANGLES (make 2)
...Row 9: K1, p2, k4, p3, k4, p2, k1 tbl, p1, 2/1 LPC, p2, 2/1 RPC, p1, k1 tbl, p2, k4, p3, k4, p2, k1.

GAUGE:
10 1/2 sts + 12 rows = about 4 in. (10 cm) in Cable pattern.
One Rectangle = 17 x 32 in. (43 x 81.5 cm).

When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. The needle or hook size called for in the pattern is based on what the designer used, but it is not unusual for gauge to vary from person to person. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make your swatch, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

Making a Gauge Swatch
STITCH EXPLANATION:
2/2 RC (2 over 2 right cross) Slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold in back, k2, then k2 from cable needle.
2/1 LPC (2 over 1 left purl cross): Slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold in front, p1, then k2 from cable needle.
2/1 RPC (2 over 1 right purl cross): Slip 1 st to cable needle and hold in back, k2, then p1 from cable needle.
pfb (purl into front and back) Purl next st without removing it from left needle, then p through back of same st – 1 st increased.

NOTES:
1. 2 Rectangles are worked separately, then sewn tog following a diagram to make Poncho.
2. Each rectangle is worked in Cable pattern following written instructions or by reading a chart. When working from chart, read RS rows from right to left and WS rows from left to right.

RECTANGLES (make 2)
With straight needles, cast on 39 sts.
Set-Up Row (WS): (K3, p1, pfb, p1) twice, k2, p1 tbl, k3, p1, pfb, p1, k3, p1 tbl, k2, (p1, pfb, p1, k3) twice – you will have 44 sts.
Cable Pattern
Row 1 (RS): K1, p2, 2/2 RC, p3, 2/2 RC, p2, k1 tbl, p3, 2/2 RC, p3, k1 tbl, p2, 2/2 RC, p3, 2/2 RC, p2, k1.
Row 2: (K3, p4) twice, k2, p1 tbl, k3, p4, k3, p1 tbl, k2, (p4, k3) twice.
Row 3: K1, p2, k4, p3, k4, p2, k1 tbl, p2, 2/1 RPC, 2/1 LPC, p2, k1 tbl, p2, k4, p3, k4, p2, k1.
Row 4: (K3, p4) twice, k2, p1 tbl, (k2, p2) twice, k2, p1 tbl, k2, (p4, k3) twice.
Row 5: K1, p2, k4, p3, k4, p2, k1 tbl, p1, 2/1 RPC, p2, 2/1 LPC, p1, k1 tbl, p2, k4, p3, k4, p2, k1.
Row 6: (K3, p4) twice, k2, p1 tbl, k1, p2, k4, p2, k1, p1 tbl, k2, (p4, k3) twice.
Row 7: K1, p2, 2/2 RC, p3, 2/2 RC, p2, k1 tbl, p1, k2, p4, k2, p1, k1 tbl, p2, 2/2 RC, p3, 2/2 RC, p2, k1.
Row 8: Rep Row 6.
Row 9: K1, p2, k4, p3, k4, p2, k1 tbl, p1, 2/1 LPC, p2, 2/1 RPC, p1, k1 tbl, p2, k4, p3, k4, p2, k1.
Row 10: Rep Row 4.
Row 11: K1, p2, k4, p3, k4, p2, k1 tbl, p2, 2/1 LPC, 2/1 RPC, p2, k1 tbl, p2, k4, p3, k4, p2, k1.
Row 12: Rep Row 2.
Rows 13-96: Rep Rows 1-12 seven times.
Row 97: Rep Row 1.
Row 98: (K3, p2tog, p2) twice, k2, p1 tbl, k3, p2tog, p2, k3, p1 tbl, k2, (p2tog, p2, k3) twice – 39 sts.

Bind off.

FINISHING
Assembly
1. Lay Rectangles side by side onto a flat surface, with cast-on edges at bottom and bind-off edges at top.
2. Following diagram, bring the top of the first Rectangle towards the second Rectangle and sew bind-off edge of first Rectangle to side edge of second Rectangle.
3. Bring the lower portion of the second Rectangle towards the first Rectangle and sew cast-on edge of second Rectangle to side edge of first Rectangle.
Neckband
Rnd 1 (RS): From RS with circular needle, pick up and k74 sts spaced as evenly as possible around neck edge.
Place marker for beg of rnd.
Join by working the first st on left hand needle with the working yarn from the right hand needle.
Rnds 2 and 3: Purl.
Rnd 4 (Decrease Rnd): [K2, k2tog] 18 times, k2 – 56 sts.
Rnd 5: *K1 tbl, p1; rep from * around.
Rep Rnd 5 for 3 in. (7.5 cm).
Bind off.
Fringe
Cut about 200 strands of yarn about 12 in. (30.5 cm) long. For each fringe, hold 4 strands of yarn tog and fold in half. Use crochet hook to draw fold through lower edge of Poncho, forming a loop. Pull ends of fringe through this loop. Pull to tighten. Rep to attach fringe spaced about 2 in. (5 cm) apart all the way around lower edge of Poncho. Trim fringe evenly.
Weave in ends.

ABBREVIATIONS / REFERENCES

beg = begin(s)(ning) k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 together p = purl
p2tog = purl 2 together rem = remain(s)(ing)
rep = repeat(s)(ing) rnd(s) = round(s)
RS = right side st(s) = stitch(es)
tbl = through the back loop tog = together
WS = wrong side

source - Cabled Rectangles Poncho

blanket

2015-11-01T11:29:00.000-08:00

SKILL LEVEL: Easy + (Level 3)

SIZE: One Size

About 42 x 52 in. (106.5 x 162.5 cm)

GAUGE:
9 sts + 16 rows = about 4 in. (10 cm) over Garter st (k every row).

When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. The needle or hook size called for in the pattern is based on what the designer used, but it is not unusual for gauge to vary from person to person. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make your swatch, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

Making a Gauge Swatch
NOTES:
1. Six Strips are worked, then sewn tog following a diagram to make the Blanket.
2. Each Strip is worked in simple Garter st (k every row). You will be working with 2 colors of yarn on Rows 3-10. When changing color, twist yarns on WS to prevent a hole from forming in your work.
3. Yarn color is changed by following the written instructions below or by following a chart. When working from chart, read RS rows from right to left and WS rows from left to right.
4. All slip sts should be slipped as if to purl.

STRIP I (make 3)
With A, cast on 15 sts.
Rows 1 and 2: With A, sl 1, k to end of row.
Row 3: With B, sl 1, k2; with A, k to end of row.
Row 4: With A, sl 1, k11; with B, k to end of row.
Row 5: With B, sl 1, k5; with A, k to end of row.
Row 6: With A, sl 1, k8; with B, k to end of row.
Row 7: With B, sl 1, k8; with A, k to end of row.
Row 8: With A, sl 1, k5; with B, k to end of row.
Row 9: With B, sl 1, k11; with A, k to end of row.
Row 10: With A, sl 1, k2; with B, k to end of row.
Rows 11 and 12: With B, rep Rows 1 and 2.
Rows 13-204: Rep Rows 1-12 sixteen times.
Rows 205 and 206: With A, rep Rows 1 and 2.
With A, bind off.

STRIP II (make 3)
With A, cast on 15 sts.
Rows 1 and 2: With A, sl 1, k to end of row.
Row 3 (RS): With A, sl 1, k11; with B, k to end of row.
Row 4: With B, sl 1, k2; with A, k to end of row.
Row 5: With A, sl 1, k8; with B, k to end of row.
Row 6: With B, sl 1, k5; with A, k to end of row.
Row 7: With A, sl 1, k5; with B, k to end of row.
Row 8: With B, sl 1, k8; with A, k to end of row.
Row 9: With A, sl 1, k2; with B, k to end of row.
Row 10: With B, sl 1, k11; with A, k to end of row.
Rows 11 and 12: With B, rep Rows 1 and 2.
Rows 13-204: Rep Rows 1-12 sixteen times.
Rows 205 and 206: With A, rep Rows 1 and 2.
Bind off with A.

FINISHING
Following diagram, and alternating Strips I and II, sew Strips tog to make Blanket.
Weave in ends.

ABBREVIATIONS / REFERENCES

k = knit rep = repeat(s)(ing)
RS = right side sl = slip
st(s) = stitch(es) tog = together
WS = wrong side

source - Neck's Best Thing Graphic Blanket

Poncho

2015-11-01T11:16:00.000-08:00

SKILL LEVEL: Easy (Level 2)

SIZE: One Size

Finished Length About 14 1/2 in. (37 cm), not including cowl
Finished Circumference at Lower Edge About 79 in. (200.5 cm)

GAUGE:
4 sts = about 5 in. (12.5 cm) with larger hook and A over pattern; 7 1/2 sc = 4 in. (10 cm) with smaller hook and B.

When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. The needle or hook size called for in the pattern is based on what the designer used, but it is not unusual for gauge to vary from person to person. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make your swatch, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

Making a Gauge Swatch

STITCH EXPLANATION:
picot Ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook.
V-stitch 2 dc in indicated stitch or space.

NOTES:
1. Poncho is worked in joined rnds beg at neck.
2. Cowl collar is worked around neck edge of completed Poncho.

PONCHO
With larger hook and A, ch 56; join with sl st in beg ch to form a ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in same st as joining and in each ch around; join with sl st in first sc – 56 sc.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in same st as joining, sc in next st , *2 sc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around; join with sl st in first sc – 84 sts.
Rnd 3: Ch 3 (counts as first dc in this rnd and in all following rnds), dc in each st around; join with sl st in top of beg ch.
Rnd 4: Ch 3, dc in same st as joining (first V-st made), ch 2, sk next st, sc in next st, *ch 2, sk next st, V-st in next st, ch 2, sk next st, sc in next st; rep from * to last st, ch 2, sk last st; join with sl st in top of beg ch – 21 V-sts, 21 sc and 42 ch-2 sps.
Rnd 5: Ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in sp between 2-dc of first V-st, *ch 4, (sc, ch 3, sc) in sp between 2-dc of next V-st; rep from * around, ch 4; join with sl st in first sc – 42 sc, 21 ch-3 sps and 42 ch-4 sps.
Rnd 6: (Sl st, ch 3, dc) in first ch-3 sp (first V-st made), ch 2, sc in next ch-4 sp, *ch 2, V-st in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, sc in next ch-4 sp; rep from * around, ch 2; join with sl st in top of beg ch.
Rnds 7-16: Rep last 2 rnds 5 more times.
Fasten off.

FINISHING
Edging
From RS with smaller hook, join B with sc in any sc along lower edge of Poncho, *picot, sc in next ch-sp, picot, sc in sp between 2 dc of next V-st, picot, sc in next ch-sp, picot, sc in next sc; rep from * around omitting last sc; join with sl st in first sc – 84 picots. Fasten off.
Cowl
Rnd 1: From WS with smaller hook, join B with sl st anywhere along neck edge of Poncho. Working along opposite side of foundation ch, ch 1, sc in each ch around; join with sl st in first sc – 56 sts.
Rnds 2-12: Ch 1, sc in each st around; join with sl st in first sc.
Rnd 13: Ch 1, sc in same st as joining, *2 sc in next st, sc in next 10 sts; rep from * 4 more times; join with sl st in first st – 61 sts.
Rnds 14-16: Rep Rnd 2.
Rnd 17: Ch 1, sc in same st as joining, *picot, sc in next 2 sts; rep from * around; join with sl st in first st – 30 picots.
Fasten off.
Weave in ends.

ABBREVIATIONS / REFERENCES

beg = begin(s)(ning)   ch(s) = chain(s)
ch-space = space previously made dc = double crochet
rep = repeat(s)(ing)   rnd(s) = round(s)
RS = right side   sc = single crochet
sk = skip sl st = slip stitch
sp(s) = space(s) st(s) = stitch(es)
tog = together   WS = wrong side

source - Poncho With Cowl

Shawl

2015-11-01T11:11:00.000-08:00

SKILL LEVEL: Intermediate + (Level 4)

SIZE: One Size

About 27 x 55 in. (68.5 x 139.5 cm)

GAUGE:
11 sts + 4 rows = 4 in. (10 cm) in pattern.

When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. The needle or hook size called for in the pattern is based on what the designer used, but it is not unusual for gauge to vary from person to person. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make your swatch, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

Making a Gauge Swatch
STITCH EXPLANATION:
BPDC (back post double crochet) Yarn over, insert hook from back to front then to back, going around post of indicated st, draw up a loop, (yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook) twice. Sk st in front of the BPDC.
FPDC (front post double crochet) Yarn over, insert hook from front to back then to front, going around post of indicated st, draw up a loop, (yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook) twice. Sk st behind the FPDC.
FPSC (front post single crochet) Insert hook from front to back then to front, going around post of indicated st, draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops on hook. Skip st behind the FPSC.
lg-shell (large-shell) Work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in indicated st or ch-sp.
picot Ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook.
sm-shell (small shell) Work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in indicated ch-sp.
V-st (V-stitch) Work (dc, ch 1, dc) in indicated st or ch-sp.

NOTES:
1. Shawl is worked back and forth in rows beg at center back neck.
2. Shawl is worked with 2 colors. To change color, work last st of old color to last yarn over. Yarn over with new color and draw through all loops on hook to complete st. Proceed with new color. Fasten off old color.

SHAWL
With A, ch 5.
Row 1: Lg-shell in 5th ch from hook (beg ch counts as dc, ch 1), ch 1, dc in same ch – 1 lg-shell, 2 ch-1 sps, 1 dc at beg of row, and 1 dc at end of this row.
Row 2: Ch 4 (always counts as dc, ch 1), turn, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, lg-shell in ch-2 sp of center lg-shell, ch 1, 3 dc in beg ch-sp, ch 1, dc in 3rd ch of beg ch – 1 lg-shell, two 3-dc groups, 4 ch-1 sps, 1 dc at beg of row, and 1 dc at end of this row.
Row 3: Ch 4, turn, 3 dc in first ch-1 sp, ch 1, 3-dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, lg-shell in ch-2 sp of center lg-shell, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in turning ch-sp, ch 1, dc in 3rd ch of turning ch – 1 lg-shell, four 3-dc groups, 6 ch-1 sps, 1 dc at beg of row, and 1 dc at end of this row.
Row 4: Ch 4, turn, 2 dc in first ch-1 sp, dc in each dc and ch-1 sp to center ch-2 sp, sm-shell in center ch-2 sp, dc in each dc and ch-1 sp to turning ch-sp, 2 dc in turning ch-sp, ch 1, dc in 3rd ch of turning ch – 1 sm-shell, 28 dc, and 2 ch-1 sps.
Row 5: Ch 4, turn, 2 dc in first ch-1 sp, FPDC around each dc to center ch-2 sp, sm-shell in center ch-2 sp, FPDC around each dc to turning ch-sp, 2 dc in turning ch-sp, ch 1, dc in 3rd ch of turning ch – 1 sm-shell, 36 dc, and 2 ch-1 sps.
Row 6: Ch 4, turn, 3 dc in first ch-1 sp, *ch 1, sk next 3 sts, 3 dc in next st; rep from * to 3 sts before center ch-2 sp, ch 1, sk next 3 sts, lg-shell in center ch-2 sp, **ch 1, sk next 3 sts, 3 dc in next st; rep from ** to 3 sts before turning ch-sp, ch 1, sk next 3 sts, 3 dc in turning ch-sp, ch 1, dc in 3rd ch of turning ch – 1 lg-shell, ten 3-dc groups,12 ch-1 sps, 1 dc at beg of row, and 1 dc at end of this row.
Row 7: Ch 4, turn, 3 dc in first ch-1 sp, *ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * to center lg-shell, ch 1, lg-shell in ch-2 sp of center lg-shell, **ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp; rep from ** to turning ch-sp, ch 1, 3 dc in turning ch-sp, ch 1, dc in 3rd ch of turning ch – 1 lg-shell, twelve 3-dc groups, and 14 ch-1 sps.
Rows 8-19: Rep last 4 rows 3 more times – 1 lg-shell, thirty-six 3-dc groups, and 38 ch-1 sps at the end of Row 19.
Rows 20 and 21: Rep Rows 4 and 5 – 1 sm-shell, 164 dc, and 2 ch-1 sps at the end of Row 21.
Change to B.
Row 22: Ch 4, turn, 2 dc in first ch-1 sp, *FPDC around next st, dc in next 3 sts, FPDC around next st, sk next st, V-st in next st, sk next st; rep from * to 3 sts before center ch-2 sp, FPDC around next st, dc in next 2 sts, (dc, ch 2, dc) in center ch-2 sp, dc in next 2 sts, FPDC around next st, **sk next st, V-st in next st, sk next st, FPDC around next st, dc in next 3 sts, FPDC around next st; rep from ** to turning ch-sp, 2 dc in turning ch-sp, ch 1, dc in 3rd ch of turning ch – 20 V-sts (10 across each diagonal side edge).
Row 23: Ch 4, turn, 2 dc in first ch-1 sp, dc in next 2 sts, BPDC around next st, *dc in next 3 sts, BPDC around next st, sk next st, V-st in ch-1 sp of next V-st, sk next st, BPDC around next st; rep from * to 3 sts before center ch-2 sp, dc in next 3 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in center ch-2 sp, dc in next 3 sts, BPDC around next st, **sk next st, V-st in ch-1 sp of next V-st, sk next st, BPDC around next st, dc in next 3 sts, BPDC around next st; rep from ** to 2 sts before turning ch-sp, dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in turning ch-sp, ch 1, dc in 3rd ch of turning ch.
Row 24: Ch 4, turn, 2 dc in first ch-1 sp, FPDC around next st, sk next st, V-st in next st, sk next st, *FPDC around next st, dc in next 3 sts, FPDC around next st, sk next st, V-st in next ch-1 sp, sk next st; rep from * to center ch-2 sp, (dc, ch 2, dc) in center ch-2 sp, **sk next st, V-st in next ch-1 sp, sk next st, FPDC around next st, dc in next 3 sts, FPDC around next st; rep from ** to 4 sts before turning ch-sp, sk next st, V-st in next st, sk next st, FPDC around next st, 2 dc in turning ch-sp, ch 1, dc in 3rd ch of turning ch – 24 V-sts (12 across each diagonal side edge).
Row 25: Ch 4, turn, 2 dc in first ch-1 sp, dc in next 2 sts, BPDC around next st, sk next st, V-st in ch-1 sp of next V-st, sk next st, BPDC around next st, *dc in next 3 sts, BPDC around next st, sk next st, V-st in ch-1 sp of next V-st, sk next st, BPDC around next st; rep from * to center ch-2 sp, lg-shell in center ch-2 sp, BPDC around next st, sk next st, V-st in ch-1 sp of next V-st, sk next st, BPDC around next st, **dc in next 3 sts, BPDC around next st, sk next st, V-st in ch-1 sp of next V-st, sk next st, BPDC around next st; rep from ** to 2 sts before turning ch-sp, dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in turning ch-sp, ch 1, dc in 3rd ch of turning ch.
Row 26: Ch 4, turn, 2 dc in first ch-1 sp, FPDC around next st, dc in next 3 sts, *FPDC around next st, sk next st, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch-1 sp of next V-st, sk next st, FPDC around next st, dc in next 3 sts; rep from * to center ch-2 sp, lg-shell in center ch-2 sp, dc in next 3 sts, FPDC around next st, **sk next st, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch-1 sp of next V-st, sk next st, FPDC around next st, dc in next 3 sts, FPDC around next st; rep from ** to turning ch-sp, 2 dc in turning ch-sp, ch 1, dc in 3rd ch of turning ch.
Rnd 27: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, picot, sk first ch-1 sp, sc in next 2 sts, FPSC around next st, sc in next 3 sts, FPSC around next st, *sc in next 2 sts, picot, sk next ch-1 sp, sc in next 2 sts, FPSC around next st, sc in next 3 sts, FPSC around next st; rep from * to 2 sts before center ch-2 sp, sc in next 2 sts, picot, sk center ch-2 sp, sc in next 2 sts, FPSC around next st, sc in next 3 sts, FPSC around next st, **sc in next 2 sts, picot, sk next ch-1 sp, sc in next 2 sts, FPSC around next st, sc in next 3 sts, FPSC around next st; rep from ** to 2 sts before turning ch-sp, sc in next 2 sts, picot, sc in 3rd ch of turning ch; working in ends of rows across long straight top edge, work 2 sc in end of each row all the way across; join with sl st in first sc of this rnd. Fasten off.

FINISHING
Weave in ends.

ABBREVIATIONS / REFERENCES

beg = begin(s)(ning) ch(s) = chain(s)
ch-space = space previously made dc = double crochet
rep = repeat(s)(ing) RS = right side
sc = single crochet sk = skip
sl st = slip stitch sp(s) = space(s)
st(s) = stitch(es) WS = wrong side

source - Shawl

Dog Sheep Sweater

2015-11-01T11:05:00.000-08:00

SKILL LEVEL: Easy + (Level 3)

SIZE: Varies

Dog size S (M, L, XL)
Finished Neck Circumference 11 1/2 (15, 18 1/2, 20 1/2) in. (29 (38, 47, 52) cm)
Finished Chest Circumference 16 1/2 (20 1/2, 25 1/2, 29 1/2) in. (42 (52, 65, 75) cm)
Finished Length 13 (14 1/2, 17 1/2, 19 1/2) in. (33 (37, 44.5, 49.5) not including hood

Note: Pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. To follow pattern more easily, circle all numbers pertaining to your size before beginning.

GAUGE:
9 sts + 11 rows = about 4 in. (10 cm) in Fleece pattern.

When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. The needle or hook size called for in the pattern is based on what the designer used, but it is not unusual for gauge to vary from person to person. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make your swatch, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

Making a Gauge Swatch

STITCH EXPLANATION:
Puff (worked all in one st) Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st, yarn over and draw up a loop, (yarn over, insert hook in same st, yarn over and draw up a loop) 3 times, yarn over, draw through all loops on hook.
sc2tog (sc 2 sts together) (Insert hook in next st and draw up a loop) twice, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook – 1 st decreased.

NOTES:
1. Sweater is made in 2 pieces: Back and Underpiece.
2. Pieces are worked in a textured pattern stitch that gives the look of fleece.

BACK

Ch 24 (32, 36, 40).

Begin Fleece Pattern

Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across – you will have 23 (31, 35, 39) sts.

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 3 sts, *Puff in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * across – 5 (7, 8, 9) Puffs at the end of this row.

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.

Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, Puff in next st, *sc in next 3 sts, Puff in next st; rep from * to last st, sc in last st – 6 (8, 9, 10) Puffs.

Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.

Rep Rows 2-5 for Fleece pattern 4 (5, 7, 8) more times, then rep Rows 2-4 once more.

Place a marker on each end of the last row worked.

Shape Top and Hood

Row 1 (Decrease Row-RS): Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog – 21 (29, 33, 37) sts.

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 2 sts, Puff in next st, *sc in next 3 sts, Puff in next st; rep from * to last 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts – 5 (7, 8, 9) Puffs.

Row 3: Rep Decrease Row – 19 (27, 31, 35) sts.

Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 3 sts, *Puff in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * across – 4 (6, 7, 8) Puffs.

Row 5: Rep Decrease Row – 17 (25, 29, 33) sts.

Row 6: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 4 sts, *Puff in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * to last st, sc in last st – 3 (5, 6, 7) Puffs.

Row 7: Rep Decrease Row – 15 (23, 27, 31) sts.

Row 8: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, Puff in next st, *sc in next 3 sts, Puff in next st; rep from * to last st, sc in last st – 4 (6, 7, 8) Puffs.

Sizes S and (M) ONLY

Row 9: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.

Row 10: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 3 sts, *Puff in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * across – 3 (5) Puffs.

Row 11: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across – 15 (23) sts.

Row 12: Rep Row 8 – 4 (6) Puffs.

Place a marker on each end of Row 12.

Row 13 (Increase Row): Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, 2 sc in each of next 2 sts, sc in each st to last 3 sts, 2 sc in each of next 2 sts, sc in last st – 19 (27) sts.

Row 14: Rep Row 8 – 5 (7) Puffs.

Row 15: Rep Increase Row – 23 (31) sts.

Row 16: Rep Row 8 – 6 (8) Puffs.

Rows 17 and 19: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.

Row 18: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 3 sts, *Puff in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * across – 5 (7) Puffs.

Row 20: Rep Row 8 – 6 (8) Puffs.

For Size S ONLY, Row 20 is the last row you should work before jumping down to ALL SIZES below.

Rows 21-24: For Size M ONLY, rep Rows 17-20 once more.

Size L ONLY

Row 9: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.

Row 10: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 3 sts, *Puff in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * across – 6 Puffs.

Row 11: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across – 27 sts.

Row 12: Rep Row 8 – 7 Puffs.

Place a marker on each end Row 12.

Row 13 (Increase Row): Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, 2 sc in each of next 2 sts, sc in each st to last 3 sts, 2 sc in each of next 2 sts, sc in last st – 31 sts.

Row 14: Rep Row 8 – 8 Puffs.

Row 15: Rep Increase Row – 35 sts.

Row 16: Rep Row 8 – 9 Puffs.

Rows 17 and 19: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.

Row 18: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 3 sts, *Puff in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * across – 8 Puffs.

Row 20: Rep Row 8 – 9 Puffs.

Rows 21-28: Rep Rows 17-20 twice more.

Size XL ONLY

Rows 9-12: Rep Rows 1-4 – 6 Puffs.

Row 13: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across – 27 sts.

Row 14: Rep Row 8 – 7 Puffs.

Place a marker on each end of Row 14.

Row 15 (Increase Row): Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, 2 sc in each of next 2 sts, sc in each st to last 3 sts, 2 sc in each of next 2 sts, sc in last st – 31 sts.

Row 16: Rep Row 8 – 8 Puffs.

Row 17: Rep Increase Row – 35 sts.

Row 18: Rep Row 8 – 9 Puffs.

Rows 19 and 21: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.

Row 20: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 3 sts, *Puff in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * across – 8 Puffs.

Row 22: Rep Row 8 – 9 Puffs.

Rows 23-34: Rep Rows 19-22 three more times.

ALL SIZES

Row 21 (25, 29, 35): Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.

Row 22 (26, 30, 36): Ch 1, turn, sc in first 3 sts, *Puff in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * across – 5 (7, 8, 8) Puffs.

Make Ear Openings

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, turn, sc in first 5 (7, 8, 8) sts, ch 4 (5, 5, 5), sk next 3 (4, 4, 4) sts, sc in next 7 (9, 11, 11) sts, ch 4 (5, 5, 5), sk next 3 (4, 4, 4) sts, sc in last 5 (7, 8, 8) sts.

Size S ONLY

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, Puff in next st, sc in next 3 sts, (Puff, 2 sc) in next ch-4 sp, sc in next st, Puff in next st, sc in next 3 sts, Puff in next st, sc in next st, (2 sc, Puff) in next ch-4 sp, sc in next 3 sts, Puff in next st, sc in last st – 6 Puffs.

Size M ONLY

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, Puff in next st, sc in next 3 sts, Puff in next st, sc in next st, (2 sc, Puff, sc) in next ch-5 sp, sc in next 2 sts, Puff in next st, sc in next 3 sts, Puff in next st, sc in next 2 sts, (sc, Puff, 2 sc) in next ch-5 sp, sc in next st, Puff in next st, sc in next 3 sts, Puff in next st, sc in last st – 8 Puffs.

Sizes L and (XL) ONLY

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, Puff in next st, sc in next 3 sts, Puff in next st, sc in next 2 sts, (sc, Puff, 2 sc) in next ch-5 sp, sc in next st, Puff in next st, (sc in next 3 sts, Puff in next st) 2 times, sc in next st, (2 sc, Puff, sc) in next ch-5 sp, sc in next 2 sts, Puff in next st, sc in next 3 sts, Puff in next st, sc in last st – 9 Puffs.

ALL SIZES

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *sc2tog; rep from * across – 12 (16, 18, 18) sts.

Fasten off.

DERPIECE

Ch 16 (16, 24, 28).

Begin Fleece Pattern

Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across – 15 (15, 23, 27) sts.

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 3 sts, *Puff in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * across – 3 (3, 5, 6) Puffs.

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.

Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, Puff in next st, *sc in next 3 sts, Puff in next st; rep from * to last st, sc in last st – 4 (4, 6, 7) Puffs.

Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.

Rows 6-9 (13, 17, 21): Rep Rows 2-5 for Fleece Pattern 1 (2, 3, 4) times.

Row 10 (14, 18, 22): Rep Row 2.

Place a marker on each end of last row worked.

Shape Top

Row 1 (Decrease Row-RS): Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog – 13 (13, 21, 25) sts.

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 4 sts, *Puff in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * to last st, sc in last st – 2 (2, 4, 5) Puffs.

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog – 11 (11, 19, 23) sts.

Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, Puff in next st, *sc in next 3 sts, Puff in next st; rep from * to last st, sc in last st – 3 (3, 5, 6) Puffs.

Sizes S and (M) ONLY

Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.

Sizes L and (XL) ONLY

Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog – 17 (21) sts.

Row 6: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 2 sts, Puff in next st, *sc in next 3 sts, Puff in next st; rep from * to last 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts – 4 (5) Puffs.

Row 7: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog – 15 (19) sts.

ALL SIZES

Row 6 (6, 8, 8): Ch 1, turn, sc in first 3 sts, *Puff in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * across – 2 (2, 3, 4) Puffs.

Row 7 (7, 9, 9): Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across – 11 (11, 15, 19) sts.

Row 8 (8, 10, 10): Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, Puff in next st, *sc in next 3 sts, Puff in next st; rep from * to last st, sc in last st – 3 (3, 4, 5) Puffs.

Row 9 (9, 11, 11) (Increase Row): Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, 2 sc in next st, sc in each st across to last 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in last st – 13 (13, 17, 21) sts.

Row 10 (10, 12, 12): Ch 1, turn, sc in first 4 sts, *Puff in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * to last st, sc in last st – 2 (2, 3, 4) Puffs.

Row 11 (11, 13, 13): Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, 2 sc in next st, sc in each st across to last 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in last st – 15 (15, 19, 23) sts.

Place a marker on each end of last row worked.

Row 12 (12, 14, 14): Ch 1, turn, sc in first 3 sts, *Puff in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * across – 3 (3, 4, 5) Puffs.

Row 13 (13, 15, 15): Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.

Fasten off.

FINISHING

Hold WS of Underpiece and Back together, matching markers. Beg at top of Underpiece, sew sides of Underpiece to Back, leave the space between markers unsewn for leg openings, then sew remainder of Underpiece to Back. Note that the lower portion of the Back remains unsewn, this is the Back Flap.

Leg Edging

Rnd 1 (RS): From RS, join yarn with a sl st anywhere on edge of leg opening, ch 1, work 20 (20, 24, 24) sc evenly spaced around opening; join with sl st in first sc – 20 (20, 24, 24) sts.

Rnds 2 and 3: Ch 1, sc in each st around; join with sl st in first sc.

Rnd 4 (Decrease Rnd): Ch 1, *sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc; rep from * around; join with sl st in first sc – 15 (15, 18, 18) sts.

Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in each st around; join with sl st in first sc.

Fasten off.

Rep around other leg opening.

Weave in ends.

ABBREVIATIONS / REFERENCES

ch(s) = chain(s) ch-space = space previously made

rep = repeat(s)(ing) rnd(s) = round(s)

RS = right side sc = single crochet

sl st = slip stitch sp(s) = space(s)

st(s) = stitch(es) WS = wrong side

source - Dog Sheep Sweater

scraft

2015-11-01T10:51:00.000-08:00

SKILL LEVEL: Easy (Level 2)

SIZE: One Size

About 7 1/2 x 70 in. (19 x 178 cm)

GAUGE:
1 pattern rep = about 3 3/4 in. (9.5 cm). Note: One pattern rep consists of (ch 2, 3 hdc, sc, ch 2) and 6 hdc.

When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. The needle or hook size called for in the pattern is based on what the designer used, but it is not unusual for gauge to vary from person to person. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make your swatch, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

Making a Gauge Swatch

NOTES:
Scarf is worked in one piece in an easy eyelet pattern.

SCARF
Ch 25.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across – 24 sc.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Row 3: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), turn, hdc in next 2 sts, ch 2, 3 hdc in next st, sk next 2 sts, sc in next st, ch 2, sk next 2 sts, hdc in next 6 sts, ch 2, 3 hdc in next st, sk next 2 sts, sc in next st, ch 2, sk next 2 sts, hdc in last 3 sts – you will have 2 pattern reps at the end of Row 3.
Row 4: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), turn, hdc in next 2 sts, ch 2, 3 hdc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2, hdc in each st to next ch-2 sp, ch 2, 3 hdc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2, hdc in last 3 sts, working the last hdc in top of the turning ch.
Rep Row 4 until you have just about 3 yd (3 m) of yarn remaining.
Next Row: Ch 1, turn, sc in each hdc, ch-2 sp, and sc across – 24 sc.
Last Row: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Fasten off.

FINISHING
Weave in ends.

ABBREVIATIONS / REFERENCES

ch(s) = chain(s) ch-space = space previously made
hdc = half double crochet rep = repeat(s)(ing)
sc = single crochet sk = skip
sp(s) = space(s) st(s) = stitch(es)

source - Easy Eyelet Scarf

hat

2015-11-01T10:46:00.000-08:00

Designed by Teresa Chorzepa.

SKILL LEVEL: Easy (Level 2)

SIZE: One Size
Finished Circumference About 19 in. (48.5 cm), will stretch to fit a range of sizes.
Finished Height About 9 in. (23 cm)
NOTES:
1. Hat is worked in one piece in joined and TURNED rounds. To turn when working in the round, simply turn your work, just as when working back and forth in rows

GAUGE:
1 pattern rep + 8 rnds = about 3 3/4 in. (9.5 cm). Note: One pattern rep consists of (ch 2, 3 hdc, sc, ch 2) and the 6 following hdc.
When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. The needle or hook size called for in the pattern is based on what the designer used, but it is not unusual for gauge to vary from person to person. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make your swatch, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.
Making a Gauge Swatch

STITCH EXPLANATION:
hdc2tog (hdc 2 sts together) (Yarn over, insert hook in next st and draw up a loop) twice, yarn over and draw through all 5 loops on hook – 1 st decreased.

NOTES:
1. Hat is worked in the rnd one piece in joined and TURNED rounds. To turn when working in the round, simply turn your work, just as when working back and forth in rows.
2. Top knot is made separately, then sewn to Hat.
3. If you find it difficult to join the beg ch into a ring without twisting the ch, Rnd 1 can be worked as a row, then joined into a rnd, as follows: Leaving a long beg tail, ch 61, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across; join with sl st in first sc – you will have 60 sc. Use beg tail to sew gap at base of first row closed. Proceed to Rnd 2.

HAT
Ch 60.
Taking care not to twist ch, join with sl st in first ch to make a ring.
Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in each ch around; join with sl st in first sc – 60 sc.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st around; join with sl st in first sc.
Rnd 3: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc in this rnd and all following rnds), turn, hdc in next 2 sts, *ch 2, 3 hdc in next st, sk next 2 sts, sc in next st, ch 2, sk next 2 sts, hdc in next 6 sts; rep from * to last 9 sts, ch 2, 3 hdc in next st, sk next 2 sts, sc in next st, ch 2, sk next 2 sts, hdc in last 3 sts; join with sl st in top of beg ch – at the end of Rnd 3 you will have 5 pattern reps.
Rnds 4-12: Ch 2, turn, hdc in each st to first ch-2 sp, *ch 2, 3 hdc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2, hdc in each st to next ch-2 sp; rep from * to last 2 ch-2 sps, ch 2, 3 hdc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2, hdc in each st to end of rnd; join with sl st in top of beg ch.
Shape Crown (top of Hat)
Rnd 13: Ch 2, turn, hdc in next 2 sts, *ch 2, 3 hdc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2, hdc in next 2 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 2 sts; rep from * to last 2 ch-2 sps, ch 2, 3 hdc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2, hdc in next st, hdc2tog; join with sl st in top of beg ch.
Rnd 14: Rep Rnd 4.
Rnd 15: Ch 2, turn, hdc2tog, *ch 2, 3 hdc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc in next st, hdc2tog; rep from * to last 2 ch-2 sps, ch 2, 3 hdc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2, hdc2tog; join with sl st in top of beg ch.
Rnd 16: Ch 2, turn, hdc in next st, *ch 2, 3 hdc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc in next hdc; rep from * to last 2 ch-2 sps, ch 2, 3 hdc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2, sk last st; join with sl st in top of beg ch.
Rnd 17: Ch 2, turn, *hdc in next ch-2 sp, hdc in next sc, hdc in next ch-2 sp, sk next st, hdc in next st; rep from * to last 2 ch-sps, hdc in next ch-2 sp, hdc in next sc, hdc in next ch-2 sp, sk last st; join with sl st in top of beg ch – 20 hdc.
Rnd 18: Ch 2, turn, *hdc2tog, hdc in next st; rep from * to last st, hdc in last st; join with sl st in top of beg ch – 14 hdc.
Rnd 19: Ch 2, turn, *sk next st, hdc in next st; rep from * to last st, sk last st; join with sl st in top of beg ch – 7 hdc.
Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing.

FINISHING
Top Knot
Crochet strands (make 7)
Ch 11.
Row 1: Work 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 10 – you will have 20 sc and a ch-10.
Fasten off.
Knot ch-10 end of all 7 strands together, then draw knot through top of Hat. Sew knot to inside of Hat.
Weave in ends.

ABBREVIATIONS / REFERENCES

beg = begin(s)(ning) ch(s) = chain(s)
ch-space = space previously made hdc = half double crochet
rep = repeat(s)(ing) rnd(s) = round(s)
RS = right side sc = single crochet
sk = skip sl st = slip stitch
sp(s) = space(s) st(s) = stitch(es)

source - Easy Eyelet Hat

Grandstand Cowl

2015-11-01T10:37:00.000-08:00

SKILL LEVEL: Easy (Level 2)

SIZE: One Size

Finished Circumference About 38 in. (96.5 cm)
Finished Height About 9 in. (23 cm)

GAUGE:

8 sts = about 4 in. (10 cm) in Garter st (knit every row).

When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. The needle or hook size called for in the pattern is based on what the designer used, but it is not unusual for gauge to vary from person to person. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make your swatch, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

Making a Gauge Swatch

STITCH EXPLANATION:

PATTERN STITCH
Seed St (worked over an even number of sts)
Row 1: *K1, p1; rep from * to end of row.
Row 2: P the knit sts, and k the purl sts.
Rep Row 2 for Seed st.

NOTES:
1. Cowl is worked in one piece in bands of Garter st (knit every row), Seed st, and a simple slip st pattern.
2. Always slip sts as if to purl.

COWL
With A, cast on 38 sts.
Rows 1-10: Work in Garter st (knit every row).
Row 11: With B, k1, *sl 1, k2; rep from * to last st, k1.
Row 12: With B, k1, *p2, sl 1; rep from * to last st, k1.
Rows 13 and 14: With A, work in Garter st.
Rows 15-26: Rep Rows 11-14.
Row 27: With B, work in Garter st.
Rows 28-36: With B, work in Seed st.
Rep rows 1-36 for 3 more times – you will have worked Rows 1-36 a total of 4 times.
Bind off.

FINISHING
Sew ends together. Fold piece in half lengthwise and sew long edges together to make a double-thick Cowl.
Weave in ends.

source - Grandstand Cowl

Wedding Gloves

2015-11-01T10:31:00.000-08:00

SKILL LEVEL: Intermediate (Level 3)

SIZE: One Size

Finished Circumference About 8 in. (20.5 cm), stretched, will stretch to fit a range of sizes.
Finished Length About 7 1/2 in. (19 cm)

GAUGE:

32 1/2 sts = about 4 in. (10 cm) with smaller needles over K2, p2 Rib, stretched.

When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. The needle or hook size called for in the pattern is based on what the designer used, but it is not unusual for gauge to vary from person to person. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make your swatch, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

Making a Gauge Swatch

STITCH EXPLANATION:
sk2p Slip 1 as if to knit, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over – 2 sts decreased.
yo (yarn over)
An increase that also creates a small decorative hole (eyelet) in the fabric, worked as follows:
1. Bring yarn to front, between the needles.
2. Take yarn to back, over the right needle. This creates the new st. You are now ready to proceed with the next st as instructed.

PATTERN STITCH
K2, p2 Rib (worked over a multiple of 4 sts)
Row 1: *K2, p2; rep from * to end of row.
Row 2: K the knit sts and p the purl sts.
Rep Row 2 for K2, p2 Rib.

NOTES:

1. Gloves are worked flat in ribbing and an easy lace pattern.
2. Ribbing on Gloves allows them to easily stretch to fit a range of sizes.
3. The first and last st of each row is worked in Garter st (k every row) as selvedge sts. These sts will ‘disappear’ into the seam when the Gloves are sewn together.
4. We suggest that you wind this yarn into balls by hand, rather than using a ball winder.
5. To prevent yarn from becoming tangled, slip ball into a ziplock bag. Zip bag, leaving an opening just large enough for the strand of yarn to emerge.

RIGHT GLOVE
With larger needles, cast on 65 sts.
Knit one row.
Begin Lace and Rib patterns
Row 1 (RS): K1 (for selvedge st), place marker (pm), p3, k1, yo, k4, sk2p, k4, yo, k1, p3, pm; work in K2, p2 Rib to last st, k last st (for selvedge st).
Rows 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10: K1, work in K2, p2 Rib to marker, slip marker (sm), k3, p13, k3, sm, k last st.
Row 3: K1, sm, p3, k2, yo, k3, sk2p, k3, yo, k2, p3, sm; work in K2, p2 Rib to last st, k last st.
Row 5: K1, sm, p3, k3, yo, k2, sk2p, k2, yo, k3, p3, sm; work in K2, p2 Rib to last st, k last st.
Row 7: K1, sm, p3, k4, yo, k1, sk2p, k1, yo, k4, p3, sm; work in K2, p2 Rib to last st, k last st.
Row 9: K1, sm, p3, k5, yo, sk2p, yo, k5, p3, sm; work in K2, p2 Rib to last st, k last st.
Row 11: Cast on 4 sts, turn and k these 4 sts, k1, sm, p3, k1, yo, k4, sk2p, k4, yo, k1, p3, sm; work in K2, p2 Rib to last st, k last st (for selvedge st), then cast on 4 sts – 73 sts.
Rows 12 and 14: K1, p4, work in K2, p2 Rib to marker, sm, k3, p13, k3, sm, p4, k last st.
Row 13: K5, sm, p3, k2, yo, k3, sk2p, k3, yo, k2, p3, sm; work in K2, p2 Rib to last 5 sts, k 5.
Row 15 (Dec Row): K1, k2tog, k2, sm, p3, k3, yo, k2, sk2p, k2, yo, k3, p3, sm; work in K2, p2 Rib to last 3 sts, k2tog, k last st – 71 sts.
Rows 16 and 18: K1, p3, work in K2, p2 Rib to marker, sm, k3, p13, k3, sm, p3, k last st.
Row 17: K to marker, sm, p3, k4, yo, k1, sk2p, k1, yo, k4, p3, sm; work in K2, p2 Rib to last 4 sts, k4.
Row 19 (Dec Row): K1, k2tog, k1, sm, p3, k5, yo, sk2p, yo, k5, p3, sm; work in K2, p2 Rib to last 3 sts, k2tog, k last st – 69 sts.
Rows 20 and 22: K1, p2, work in K2, p2 Rib to marker, sm, k3, p13, k3, sm, p2, k last st.
Row 21: K to marker, sm, p3, k1, yo, k4, sk2p, k4, yo, k1, p3, sm; work in K2, p2 Rib to last 3 sts, k 3.
Row 23 (Dec Row): K1, k2tog, sm, p3, k2, yo, k3, sk2p, k3, yo, k2, p3, sm; work in K2, p2 Rib to last 3 sts, k2tog, k last st – 67 sts.
Rows 24 and 26: K1, p1, work in K2, p2 Rib to marker, sm, k3, p13, k3, sm, p1, k last st.
Row 25: K to marker, sm, p3, k3, yo, k2, sk2p, k2, yo, k3, p3, sm; work in K2, p2 Rib to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 27 (Dec Row): K2tog, sm, p3, k4, yo, k1, sk2p, k1, yo, k4, p3, sm; work in K2, p2 Rib to last 2 sts, k2tog – 65 sts.
Row 28: Rep Row 2.
Rows 29-38: Rep Rows 1-10.

Cuff
Change to smaller needles.
Row 1: Work in K2, p2 Rib to last 3 sts, p2, knit into front and then back of last st – 66 sts.
Row 2: P2, k the knit sts and p the purl sts to end of row.
Continue in K2, p2 Rib for 10 more rows.
Bind off in rib.

LEFT GLOVE
With larger needles, cast on 65 sts.
Knit one row.
Begin Lace and Rib patterns
Row 1 (RS): K1 (for selvedge st), work in K2, p2 Rib over next 44 sts, pm, p3, k1, yo, k4, sk2p, k4, yo, k1, p3, pm; k last st (for selvedge st).
Rows 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10: K1, sm, k3, p13, k3, sm, work in K2, p2 Rib to last st, k last st.
Row 3: K1, work in K2, p2 Rib to marker, sm, p3, k2, yo, k3, sk2p, k3, yo, k2, p3, sm, k last st.
Row 5: K1, work in K2, p2 Rib to marker, sm, p3, k3, yo, k2, sk2p, k2, yo, k3, p3, sm, k last st.
Row 7: K1, work in K2, p2 Rib to marker, sm, p3, k4, yo, k1, sk2p, k1, yo, k4, p3, sm, k last st.
Row 9: K1, work in K2, p2 Rib to marker, sm, p3, k5, yo, sk2p, yo, k5, p3, sm, k last st.
Row 11: Cast on 4 sts, turn and k these 4 sts, k1, work in K2, p2 Rib to marker, sm, p3, k1, yo, k4, sk2p, k4, yo, k1, p3, sm, k last st (for selvedge st), then cast on 4 sts – 73 sts.
Rows 12 and 14: K1, p4, sm, k3, p13, k3, sm, work in K2, p2 Rib to last 5 sts, p4, k last st.
Row 13: K5, work in K2, p2 Rib to marker, sm, p3, k2, yo, k3, sk2p, k3, yo, k2, p3, sm, k5.
Row 15 (Dec Row): K1, k2tog, k2, work in K2, p2 Rib to marker, sm, p3, k3, yo, k2, sk2p, k2, yo, k3, p3, sm, k2, k2tog, k last st – 71 sts.
Rows 16 and 18: K1, p3, sm, k3, p13, k3, sm, work in K2, p2 Rib to last 4 sts, p3, k last st.
Row 17: K4, work in K2, p2 Rib to marker, sm, p3, k4, yo, k1, sk2p, k1, yo, k4, p3, sm, k to end of row.
Row 19 (Dec Row): K1, k2tog, k1, work in K2, p2 Rib to marker, sm, p3, k5, yo, sk2p, yo, k5, p3, sm, k1, k2tog, k last st – 69 sts.
Rows 20 and 22: K1, p2, sm, k3, p13, k3, sm, work in K2, p2 Rib to last 3 sts, p2, k last st.
Row 21: K3, work in K2, p2 Rib to marker, sm, p3, k1, yo, k4, sk2p, k4, yo, k1, p3, sm, k to end of row.
Row 23 (Dec Row): K1, k2tog, work in K2, p2 Rib to marker, sm, p3, k2, yo, k3, sk2p, k3, yo, k2, p3, sm, k2tog, k last st – 67 sts.
Rows 24 and 26: K1, p1, sm, k3, p13, k3, sm, work in K2, p2 Rib to last 2 sts, p1, k last st.
Row 25: K2, work in K2, p2 Rib to marker, sm, p3, k3, yo, k2, sk2p, k2, yo, k3, p3, sm, k to end of row.
Row 27 (Dec Row): K2tog, work in K2, p2 Rib to marker, sm, p3, k4, yo, k1, sk2p, k1, yo, k4, p3, sm, k2tog – 65 sts.
Row 28: Rep Row 2.
Rows 29-38: Rep Rows 1-10.

Cuff
Change to smaller needles.
Row 1 (RS): Purl into front and back of first st, work in K2, p2 Rib to end of row – 66 sts.
Row 2: K the knit sts and p the purl sts to last 2 sts, k2.
Continue in K2, p2 Rib for 10 more rows.
Bind off in rib.

FINISHING
Sew sides of Gloves from ribbed wrist edge to thumb, then sew remaining sides above thumb.
Weave in ends.

ABBREVIATIONS / REFERENCES

dec = decreas(e)(s)(ing) k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 together p = purl
rep = repeat(s)(ing) RS = right side
st(s) = stitch(es)

Boutonniere

2015-11-01T10:26:00.000-08:00

SKILL LEVEL: Easy (Level 2)

SIZE: One Size

About 3 1/2 in. (9 cm) across

GAUGE:
Exact gauge is not essential to this project.

NOTES:
1. Flower, Leaf and Stem are crocheted separately, then sewn together.
2. Flower and Stem are worked in joined rnds with RS always facing. Do not turn at beg of rnds.
3. Use the colors that match our photograph, or use colors of your choice from the yarn package.

FLOWER
With hot pink, or color of your choice, ch 7.
Join with sl st in beg ch to make a ring.
Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 3 (beg ch counts as first dc), work 2 dc in ring, ch 9, * 3 dc in ring, ch 9; rep from * 4 more times; join with sl st in top of beg ch-3 – you will have 6 ch-9 sps.
Rnd 2: Sl st in next dc, ch 1, sc in same dc, (9 dc, ch 2, 9 dc) in next ch-9 sp, * sk next dc, sc in next dc, sk next dc, (9 dc, ch 2, 9 dc) in next ch-9 sp; rep from * 4 times more; join with sl st in first sc – 6 petals.
Rnd 3: Ch 1, *sc in each of next 9 sts, (sc, ch 2, sc) in next ch-2 sp, sc in each of next 9 sts; rep from * 5 more times (once for each petal); join with sl st in first sc.
Fasten off, leaving a 12 in. (30.5 cm) long yarn tail.
Thread yarn tail into blunt needle and weave through sts of Rnd 1. Pull to gather and knot securely.

LEAF
With pea green, ch 10.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each of next 7 ch, work 3 sc in last ch; turn to work along opposite side of foundation ch and sc in each of next 8 ch – 19 sts.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn.
Working through back loops only, sc in each of first 9 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in each of next 9 sts – 21 sts.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn.
Working through back loops only, sc in each of first 10 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in each of next 10 sts – 23 sts.
Row 4: Ch 1, turn.
Working through back loops only, sc in each of first 11 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in each of next 11 sts – 25 sts.
Fasten off.

STEM
With pea green, or color of your choice, ch 3.
Join with a sl st in first ch to make a ring.
Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 1, work 3 sc in ring; join with sl st in first sc.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each st around; join with sl st in first sc.
Rep Rnd 2 until piece measures about 1 in. (2.5 cm) long.
Stem Cap
Rnd 1: Ch 1, work 2 sc in each st around; join with sl st in first sc – 6 sts.
Rnd 2: Rep Rnd 1 – 12 sts.
Rnd 3: Ch 1, *sc in each of next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * twice more; join with sl st in first sc – 15 sts.
Rnds 4 and 5: Ch 1, sc in each st around; join with sl st in first sc.
Fasten off, leaving a 12 in. (30.5 cm) long yarn tail for sewing.

FINISHING
Weave in ends.
Sew Leaf and Flower into stem cap.
With sewing needle and thread, sew bead to center of Flower, and pin back to WS of Boutonniere.

ABBREVIATIONS / REFERENCES

beg = begin(s)(ning) ch(s) = chain(s)
dc = double crochet rep = repeat(s)(ing)
rnd(s) = round(s) RS = right side
sc = single crochet sk = skip
sl st = slip stitch st(s) = stitch(es)
WS = wrong side

source - Boutonniere

Fascinator

2015-11-01T10:22:00.000-08:00

SKILL LEVEL: Easy (Level 2)

SIZE: One Size
About 6 in. (15 cm) across

GAUGE:
Exact gauge is not essential to this project.

NOTES:
1. Flowers and Leaves are crocheted, then glued to comb.
2. Corkscrew Flowers are worked in joined rnds with RS always facing. Do not turn at beg of rnds.
3. The Fascinator uses only the green color from the B yarn package.

SMALL CORKSCREW FLOWER
With A, ch 8.
Join with a sl st in first ch to make a ring.
Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 1, work 12 sc in ring; join with sl st in first sc.
Rnd 2: *Ch 12, sc in 2nd ch from hook, 2 sc in each of next 10 ch, sl st in next sc of Rnd 1, sc in next sc of Rnd 1; rep from * to last sc, ch 12, sc in 2nd ch from hook, 2 sc in each of next 10 ch, sl st in last sc – 6 petals.
Fasten off.

LARGE CORKSCREW FLOWER
With A, ch 10.
Join with a sl st in first ch to make a ring.
Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 1, work 16 sc in ring; join with sl st in first sc.
Rnd 2: *Ch 16, sc in 2nd ch from hook, 2 sc in each of next 14 ch, sl st in next sc of Rnd 1, sc in next sc of Rnd 1; rep from * to last sc, ch 16, sc in 2nd ch from hook, 2 sc in each of next 14 ch, sl st in last sc – 8 petals.
Fasten off.

ROSEBUD
With A, ch 5.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across – 4 sc.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn.
Working through back loops only, 3 sc in each st across – 12 sc.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn.
Working through back loops only, 2 sc in each st across – 24 sc.
Row 4: Ch 1, turn.
Working through back loops only, *sc in each of next 4 sts, ch 3; rep from * to last 4 sts, sc in each of last 4 sts.
Fasten off.
Coil the piece into a spiral rosebud, then sew a few sts through the base to secure.
With sewing needle and thread, sew gray glass bead to center of flower.

LEAVES (make 3)
With pea green from B yarn package, or color of your choice, ch 10.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each of next 7 ch, work 3 sc in last ch; turn to work along opposite side of foundation ch and sc in each of next 8 ch – 19 sts.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn.
Working through back loops only, sc in each of first 9 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in each of next 9 sts – 21 sts.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn.
Working through back loops only, sc in each of first 10 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in each of next 10 sts – 23 sts.
Row 4: Ch 1, turn.
Working through back loops only, sc in each of first 11 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in each of next 11 sts – 25 sts.
Fasten off.

FINISHING
Weave in ends.
Wrap flat top edge of comb with tulle, pulling up loops of tulle between the teeth of the comb.
With sewing needle and thread, sew Leaves to comb.
Layer Corkscrew Flowers, with smaller on top. With sewing needle and thread, sew rhinestone bead to center of layered Flowers, then sew Flowers to comb. Sew Rosebud to comb.

ABBREVIATIONS / REFERENCES

beg = begin(s)(ning) ch(s) = chain(s)
rep = repeat(s)(ing) rnd(s) = round(s)
RS = right side sc = single crochet
sl st = slip stitch st(s) = stitch(es)

source - Fascinator

Bridal Bag

2015-11-01T10:15:00.000-08:00

SKILL LEVEL: Easy + (Level 3)

SIZE: One Size

Finished diameter About 5 in. (12.5 cm)
Finished height About 9 in. (23 cm)

GAUGE:

22 1/2 sts = about 4 in. (10 cm) over slip st pattern on Bag Body.

When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. The needle or hook size called for in the pattern is based on what the designer used, but it is not unusual for gauge to vary from person to person. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make your swatch, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.
Making a Gauge Swatch

STITCH EXPLANATION:
***************************************************************************
M1P (make 1 st as if to purl) An increase worked by lifting the horizontal strand lying between the needles and placing it onto left needle. Purl this new stitch through the back loop – 1 st increased.
Sk2p Slip 1 st as if to knit, knit the next 2 sts together, pass slipped stitch over – 2 sts decreased.
S2kp (slip-2-knit-pass slipped sts over)
A centered double decrease worked as follows:
1. Insert right needle as if to k2tog, and slip the next 2 sts from the left needle to the right needle.
2. Knit the next st.
3. With tip of left needle, lift the slipped sts (the 2nd and 3rd sts on right needle) up and over the knit st and off the needle – you have decreased 2 sts.
****************************************************************************
STITCH PATTERN
K1, p1 Rib (worked over an odd number of sts)
Row 1 (RS): K1, *p1, k1; rep from * to end of row.
Row 2: K the knit sts and p the purl sts as they face you.
Rep Row 2 for K1, p1 Rib.

NOTES:

1. Base of Bag is worked first, then sts for Body of Bag are picked up on Base. The Handle is worked separately.
2. Body of Bag is worked in a slip stitch pattern with 2 colors of yarn.
3. Base and Handle are worked with 2 strands of yarn held together.
4. A circular needle is used to accommodate the large number of stitches on the ruffle edge of the Bag. Work back and forth in rows on the circular needle as if working with straight needles.
5. Flowers and leaves are worked separately, then sewn to Bag.
6. Inside support for the Bag is created with cardboard and an empty soft drink bottle.

BASE
With straight needles and 2 strands of B held tog, cast on 70 sts.
Row 1 (WS) and all WS rows: Purl.
Row 2: *Sk2p, k11; rep from * across – 60 sts.
Row 4: *Sk2p, k9; rep from * across – 50 sts.
Row 6: *Sk2p, k7; rep from * across – 40 sts.
Row 8: *Sk2p, k5; rep from * across – 30 sts.
Row 10: *Sk2p, k3; rep from * across – 20 sts.
Row 12: *Sk2p, k1; rep from * across – 10 sts.
Row 14: *K2tog; rep from * across – 5 sts.
Cut yarn, leaving a long yarn tail.
Thread yarn tail through remaining sts and pull to gather.
Knot securely.

BODY
From RS with A and straight needles, pick up and k87 sts as evenly spaced as possible around outside edge of Base.
Note: When working Rows 1-8 of pattern, slip all sl sts as if to purl. Do not cut yarns between color changes, carry unused color up the WS of the work.
Row 1 (WS): With A, k1, p1, *sl 5 wyib, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.
Row 2: With B, knit.
Row 3: With B, k1, p to last st, k1.
Row 4: With A, k1, sl 3 wyib, *insert needle under the loose strand of Row 1 and knit the next st bringing st out under strand to catch strand behind st; sl 5 wyib; rep from * to last 5 sts, end knit next st under loose strand, sl 3 wyib, k1.
Row 5: With A, k1, sl 3 wyib, *p1, sl 5 wyib; rep from * to last 5 sts, p1, sl 3 wyib, k1.
Rows 6 and 7: With B, rep Rows 2 and 3.
Row 8: With A, k1, *knit next st under loose strand of Row 5, sl 5 wyib; rep from * to last 2 sts, end knit next st under loose strand, k1.
Rows 9-96: Rep Rows 1-8.
Cut A.
Row 97 (Increase Row WS): With B, (p29, M1P) twice, p to end of row – 89 sts.

Ruffle Edge
With B, work in K1, p1 Rib for about 1/2 in. (1.5 cm), end with a WS row as the last row you work.
Change to circular needle when working Row 1.
Row 1 (RS): K1, *p1, M1P, k1; rep from * to end of row – you will have 133 sts.
Rows 2, 4, 6 and 8: K the knit sts and p the purl sts as they face you.
Row 3: K1, *p2, M1P, k1; rep from * to end of row – 177 sts.
Row 5: K1, *p3, M1P p, k1; rep from * to end of row – 221 sts.
Row 7: K1, *p4, M1P, k1; rep from * to end of row – 265 sts.
Row 9: K1, *p5, M1P, k1; rep from * to end of row – 309 sts.
Row 10: Rep Row 2.
Cut B.
With A, knit 2 rows.
Bind off.

FINISHING
Twisted Cord Handle
With 2 double pointed needles and 2 strands of B held tog, cast on 5 sts.
Knit the 5 sts. Do not turn work.
Rows 1-4: Slide sts to other end of needle and knit them, pulling yarn tightly across the back of the work, (do not turn work).
Row 5: Slide sts to other end of needle, k1, sl next st to cable needle and hold in front, k2, k1 from cable needle, k1.
Rep Rows 1-5 until piece measures about 15 in. (38 cm) from beg.
Bind off.

Rose
With B and straight needles, cast on 37 sts.
Rep Rows 1-8 of Ruffle (109 sts total).
Bind off.
Coil the piece into a spiral rose, then sew a few sts through base to secure.

Leaves (make 3)
With A and straight needles, cast on 15 sts.
Row 1 (RS): K6, s2kp, k6.
Row 2: K6, p1, k6.
Row 3: K5, s2kp, k5.
Row 4: K5, p1, k5.
Row 5: K4, s2kp, k4.
Row 6: K4, p1, k4.
Row 7: K3, s2kp, k3.
Row 8: K3, p1, k3.
Row 9: K2, s2kp, k2.
Row 10: K2, p1, k2.
Row 11: K1, s2kp, k1.
Row 12: K1, p1, k1.
Row 13: S2kp.
Fasten off.

Weave in ends.

Assembly
Cut a 15 in. (38 cm) length of the wider ribbon. Press each end of ribbon 1/4 in. (.5 cm) to WS.
With sewing needle and thread, sew long sides of ribbon to inside of Bag at base of ruffle edge, with one short (folded) end of ribbon at each side edge of Bag.
Leave folded ends of ribbon unsewn. This sewn in ribbon will become the casing for the drawstring.
Sew sides of Base/Body tog to make the Bag, leaving the ruffle edge unsewn.
Sew rose and leaves to Body.
Beg at one open end of casing, draw narrower ribbon through the casing for drawstring. Trim ribbon ends.
Sew ends of Handle to sides of Bag at base of ruffle.
Slip cardboard circle into bottom of Bag. Cut soft drink bottle to about 6 1/2 in. (16.5 cm) high. Apply masking tape over the cut edge to keep it smooth.
Slip bottle into Bag.

ABBREVIATIONS / REFERENCES

beg = begin(s)(ning)   k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 together p = purl
rep = repeat(s)(ing)   RS = right side
sl = slip   st(s) = stitch(es)
tog = together   WS = wrong side
wyib = with yarn in back

Wedding Bouquet

2015-11-01T09:56:00.000-08:00

SKILL LEVEL: Easy (Level 2)
SIZE: One Size
About 14 1/2 in. (37 cm) long

GAUGE:
Exact gauge is not essential to this project.

STITCH EXPLANATION:

2dcCl (2 double crochet cluster) [Yarn over, insert hook in indicated chain and draw up a loop, (yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook)] twice in same chain, yarn over and draw through all loops on hook.

NOTES:
1. Two flower chains are crocheted using yarn colors as desired or to match your special color scheme.
2. Foam ball is cut in half to make the base of the Bouquet. Flower chains and other trims are glued or pinned onto the base.
3. Purchased bouquet holder is embellished, then finished Bouquet is attached.
4. This project is meant to bring a handmade touch to your special day. Use the colors and trims that you love, then use this pattern as a general guide for how to create your Bouquet.

FLOWER CHAINS (make 2 – 1 with pea green yarn and 1 with hot pink)
Chain 4, *work a 2dcCl in 4th chain from hook, chain 3, slip stitch in same chain; (chain 3, 2dcCl, chain 3, slip stitch) 3 times all in same chain – flower made. Chain 9.
Repeat from * to continue making the flower chain, working until almost all yarn has been used.
Fasten off.

FINISHING
Cut foam ball in half (a serrated kitchen knife works well for this). Set one half aside – you'll need just one half for the bouquet.
Lay half ball flat side down onto a work surface.
Arrange both of the flower chains over the half ball, leaving the lower edge of ball uncovered. When you are satisfied with the arrangement, pin in place as follows: slide a pearl bead onto one straight pin, then insert pin through the center of one flower, then into foam ball.
Repeat until every flower has been pinned in place.
Squeeze a small amount of craft glue onto paper plate or a small piece of foil.
Use a toothpick to apply glue to one organza rosebud.
Glue rosebud to lower edge of foam ball. In same way, glue remaining rosebuds evenly spaced around base of ball.
Dip one end of a beaded stem into glue then insert into foam ball, spaced between organza rosebuds.
Insert remaining beaded stems spaced evenly around between organza rosebuds.
Hold plant stakes together with points facing in one direction.
Insert pointed ends of stakes through center of bouquet holder.
Insert pointed ends gently into center of base of foam ball to create a hole, then remove.
Apply a small amount of glue into the hole then re-insert the stakes.
Allow to dry.
Glue one end of white satin ribbon to plant stakes just below bouquet holder. Wrap ribbon around stakes, covering stakes evenly, to base. Trim end of ribbon and glue in place.

source - Wedding Bouquet

Bow Tie And Wedding Cummerband

2015-11-01T09:49:00.000-08:00

SKILL LEVEL: Easy + (Level 3)

SIZE: One Size

CUMMERBUND
Finished Width About 4 1/2 in. (11.5 cm)
Finished Length About 42 in. (106.5 cm), length is adjustable

BOW TIE
Finished Length About 16 1/2 in. (42 cm), length is adjustable

GAUGE:

39 sts + 28 rows = about 4 in. (10 cm) over Diagonal Wave Rib.

When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. The needle or hook size called for in the pattern is based on what the designer used, but it is not unusual for gauge to vary from person to person. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make your swatch, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

Making a Gauge Swatch
STITCH EXPLANATION:
*************************************************************************
M1P (make 1 st as if to purl) An increase worked by lifting the horizontal strand lying between the needles and placing it onto the left needle. Purl this new stitch through the back loop – 1 st increased.
3/3 RPC (3 over 3 right purl cross) Slip 3 sts to cable needle and hold in back of work, k3, then p3 from cable needle.

STITCH PATTERNS
K1, p1 Rib (worked over an odd number of sts)
Row 1 (RS): K1, *p1, k1; rep from * to end of row.
Row 2: K the knit sts and p the purl sts as they face you.
Rep Row 2 for K1, p1 Rib.

Diagonal Wave Rib (worked over a multiple of 6 sts + 3 additional sts)
Rows 1 and 3 (RS): P3, *k3, p3; rep from * to end of row.
Rows 2 and 4: K3, *p3, k3; rep from * to end of row.
Row 5: *3/3 RPC; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.
Rows 6 and 8: P3, *k3, p3; rep from * to end of row.
Row 7 and 9: K3, *p3, k3; rep from * to end of row.
Row 10: Rep Row 6.
Row 11: P3, *3/3 RPC; rep from * to end of row.
Row 12: Rep Row 2.
Rep Rows 1-12 for Diagonal Wave Rib.
**************************************************************************
NOTES:

1. Cummerbund is worked in one piece; Bow Tie is worked in 3 separate pieces.
2. Both Cummerbund and Tie have simple ribbed bands that can be easily adjusted for fit by placement of snaps or by making the bands longer or shorter.

CUMMERBUND
First Side Section
Cast on 11 sts.
Work in K1, p1 Rib for about 6 in. (15 cm), end with a WS row as the last row you work.
Row 1 (Increase - RS): Work in rib as established over 3 sts, place marker (pm), M1p, work in rib as established to last 3 sts, M1p, pm, work in rib to end of row – you will have 13 sts at the end of this row.
Row 2: Work in rib to first marker, slip marker (sm), working increased sts into pattern, work in rib as established to next marker, sm, work in rib to end of row.
Row 3 (Increase): Work in rib to first marker, sm, M1p, work in rib as established to next marker, M1p, sm, work in rib to end of row – 15 sts.
Rows 4-27: Rep Rows 2 and 3 – 39 sts at the end of Row 27.
Rows 28-30: Rep Row 2.
Row 31: Rep Row 3 – 41 sts.
Rows 32-39: Rep Rows 28-31 twice – 45 sts at the end of Row 39.
Row 40: Rep Row 2.
Center Section
Row 1 (RS): Work in rib as established to first marker, sm, work Row 1 of Diagonal Wave Rib to next marker, sm, work in rib to end of row.
Row 2: Work in rib to first marker, sm, work next row of Diagonal Wave Rib to next marker, sm, work in rib to end of row.
Rep Row 2 until Center Section measures about 13 in. (33 cm), end with a WS row as the last row you work.
Second Side Section
Row 1 (Decrease - RS): Work in rib as established to first marker, sm, p2tog, work in K1, p1 Rib to 2 sts before next marker, p2tog, sm, work in rib to end of row – 43 sts.
Rows 2-4: Work in rib to first marker, sm, working decreased sts into pattern, work in rib to next marker, sm, work in rib to end of row.
Row 5 (Decrease - RS): Work in rib to first marker, sm, k2tog, work in rib to 2 sts before next marker, k2tog, sm, work in rib to end of row – 41 sts.
Rows 6-8: Rep Rows 2-4.
Rows 9-12: Rep Rows 1-4 – 39 sts.
Rows 13 and 14: Rep Rows 5 and 6 – 37 sts.
Rows 15 and 16: Rep Rows 1 and 2 – 35 sts.
Rows 17-40: Rep Rows 13-16 for 6 more times – 11 sts remain. Remove markers and continue in rib as established on these 11 sts for 8 in. (20.5 cm) or to desired length.
Bind off.

FINISHING
Check the fit of the Cummerbund to determine placement of snaps. With sewing needle and thread, sew 2 snaps to each end of First and Second Side Sections.
Weave in ends.

BOW TIE
Bow
Cast on 21 sts.
Row 1 (RS): K1, p1, k1, pm, work Row 1 of Diagonal Wave Rib over next 15 sts, pm, k1, p1, k1.
Row 2: Work in rib to first marker, sm, work next row of Diagonal Wave Rib to next marker, sm, work in rib to end of row.
Rep Row 2 until piece measures about 19 in. (48.5 cm) from beg.
Bind off.
Knot
Cast on 8 sts.
Row 1 (RS): K1, p2, k2, p2, k1.
Row 2: K the knit sts and p the purl sts as they face you.
Rep Row 2 until piece measures about 3 in. (7.5 cm) from beg.
Bind off.
Neckband
Cast on 7 sts.
Work in K1, p1 Rib until piece measures 15 in. (38 cm) or desired length.
Bind off.

FINISHING
Weave in ends.
Sew short ends of Bow together to make a ring.
With seam at center, flatten the Bow.
Wrap Knot around center of Bow. Sew ends of Knot together.
Slide Neckband under Knot until Bow is at center of Neckband.
Sew a few stitches through all layers to secure.
Check the fit of the Neckband to determine placement of snaps. With sewing needle and thread, sew 2 snaps to each end of Neckband.

ABBREVIATIONS / REFERENCES

beg = begin(s)(ning) k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 together p = purl
p2tog = purl 2 together rep = repeat(s)(ing)
RS = right side st(s) = stitch(es)
WS = wrong side

source - Bow Tie And Wedding Cummerband

Ring Bearer Pillow

2015-11-01T09:43:00.000-08:00

SKILL LEVEL: Easy + (Level 3)

SIZE: One Size

About 10 x 12 in. (25.5 x 30.5 cm)

GAUGE:

24 sts + 30 rows = about 4 in. (10 cm) in St st (k on RS, p on WS).

When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. The needle or hook size called for in the pattern is based on what the designer used, but it is not unusual for gauge to vary from person to person. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make your swatch, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

Making a Gauge Swatch
STITCH EXPLANATION:
****************************************************************************
M1P (make 1 st as if to purl) An increase worked by lifting the horizontal strand lying between the needles and placing it onto left needle. Purl this new stitch through the back loop – 1 st increased.
S2kp (slip 2-knit-pass slipped sts over)
A centered double decrease worked as follows:
1. Insert right needle as if to knit 2 tog, and slip the next 2 sts from the left needle to the right needle.
2. Knit the next stitch.
3. With tip of left needle, lift the slipped sts (the 2nd and 3rd sts on right needle) up and over the knit st and off the needle – you have decreased 2 sts.
****************************************************************************
NOTES:

1. Front and Back of Pillow are worked separately.
2. Front is worked in a slip st pattern with 2 colors of yarn.
3. Back is worked in St st (k on RS, p on WS) with one color of yarn.
4. Cord trim, flowers and leaves are worked separately, then sewn to Pillow.
5. If desired, tie ribbons to top of Pillow to hold rings.

FRONT
With straight needles and A, cast on 69 sts.
Knit one row.
Note: When working Rows 1-8, slip all slip sts as if to purl.
Do not cut yarns between color changes, carry unused color up the WS of the work.
Row 1 (WS): With A, k1, p1, *sl 5 wyib, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.
Row 2: With B, knit.
Row 3: With B, k1, p to last st, k1.
Row 4: With A, k1, sl 3 wyib, *insert needle under the loose strand of Row 1 and knit the next st bringing st out under strand to catch strand behind st; sl 5 wyib; rep from * to last 5 sts, end knit next st under loose strand, sl 3 wyib, k1.
Row 5: With A, k1, sl 3 wyib, *p1, sl 5 wyib; rep from * to last 5 sts, p1, sl 3 wyib, k1.
Rows 6 and 7: With B, rep Rows 2 and 3.
Row 8: With A, k1, *knit next st under loose strand of Row 5, sl 5 wyib; rep from * to last 2 sts, end knit next st under loose strand, k1.
Rows 9-112: Rep Rows 1-8.
Cut B.
With A, purl one row.
Bind off.

BACK
With straight needles and B, cast on 65 sts.
Work in St st (k on RS, p on WS) until piece measures same as Front.
Bind off.

FINISHING
Twisted Cord
With 2 double pointed needles and 2 strands of B held tog, cast on 5 sts.
Knit the 5 sts.
Do not turn work.
Rows 1-4: Slide sts to other end of needle and knit them, pulling yarn tightly across the back of the work.
Row 5: Slide sts to other end of needle, k1, sl next st to cable needle and hold in front, k2, k1 from cable needle, k1.
Rep Rows 1-5 until Cord measures about 56 in. (142 cm) long.
Bind off.

Roses (make 2: 1 with A and 1 with B)
With straight needles, cast on 37 sts.
Row 1 (RS): K1, *p1, k1; rep from * to end of row.
Rows 2, 4, 6 and 8: K the knit sts and p the purl sts as they face you.
Row 3: K1, *p1, M1P, k1; rep from * to end of row – you will have 55 sts.
Row 5: K1, *p2, M1P, k1; rep from * to end of row – 73 sts.
Row 7: K1, *p3, M1P, k1; rep from * to end of row – 91 sts.
Row 9: K1, *p4, M1P, k1; rep from * to end of row – 109 sts.
Row 10: Rep Row 2.
Bind off.
Coil the piece into a spiral rose, then sew a few sts through base to secure.

Leaves (make 4: 2 with A and 2 with B)
With straight needles, cast on 15 sts.
Row 1 (RS): K6, s2kp, k6.
Row 2: K6, p1, k6.
Row 3: K5, s2kp, k5.
Row 4: K5, p1, k5.
Row 5: K4, s2kp, k4.
Row 6: K4, p1, k4.
Row 7: K3, s2kp, k3.
Row 8: K3, p1, k3.
Row 9: K2, s2kp, k2.
Row 10: K2, p1, k2.
Row 11: K1, s2kp, k1.
Row 12: K1, p1, k1.
Row 13: S2kp.
Fasten off.

Assembly
Sew Front and Back together, leaving an opening for stuffing.
Stuff, then finish sewing closed.
Sew ends of Cord tog to make a ring. Pin Cord ring around outside edge of Pillow, looping extra Cord length at each corner of Pillow. Sew Cord in place.
Sew roses and leaves to 2 corners of Pillow.
Weave in ends.

ABBREVIATIONS / REFERENCES

beg = begin(s)(ning)   k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 together p = purl
rep = repeat(s)(ing)   RS = right side
sl = slip   st(s) = stitch(es)
tog = together   WS = wrong side
wyib = with yarn in back

source - Ring Bearer Pillow

Wedding Capelet

2015-11-01T09:36:00.000-08:00

SKILL LEVEL: Easy + (Level 3)

SIZE: One Size

About 14 x 40 in. (35.5 x 101.5 cm)

GAUGE:

1 Motif = about 6 in. (15 cm) across.

When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. The needle or hook size called for in the pattern is based on what the designer used, but it is not unusual for gauge to vary from person to person. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make your swatch, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

Making a Gauge Swatch
STITCH EXPLANATION:
***********************************************************************
rev sc (reverse single crochet) Single crochet worked from left to right (right to left, if left-handed). Insert hook into next stitch to the right (left), under loop on hook, and draw up a loop. Yarn over and draw through all loops on hook.
************************************************************************
NOTES:

1. 12 Full Motifs and 5 Half Motifs are worked separately, then sewn together following a diagram to make the Capelet.
2. We’ve provided a stitch diagram to help you make the Motifs.
3. Edging is worked around the outside edge of the Capelet.
4. Rhinestone beads are sewn onto Capelet with sewing needle and thread.

FULL MOTIF (make 12)
Ch 8; join with sl st in first ch to form a ring.
Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 1, work 12 sc in ring; join with a sl st in first sc.
Spoke 1
Row 1 (RS): Ch 12, sc in 2nd ch from hook, 2 sc in each of next 9 ch, sc in last ch, sl st in next sc of Rnd 1 – you will have 20 sc in Spoke 1 at the end of this row.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, working through back loops only, sc in each st to end.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, working through back loops only, sc in first 4 sc, (ch 3, sc in next 4 sc) 4 times, sl st in next sc of Rnd 1.
Spokes 2-5
Ch 11, sl st in 2nd ch-3 sp (from center) of previous Spoke.
Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, turn, sk sl st, sc in first ch, 2 sc in each of next 9 ch, sc in next ch, sl st in next sc of Rnd 1.
Rows 2 and 3: Work same as Rows 2 and 3 of Spoke 1.
Spoke 6
Ch 11, sl st in 2nd ch-3 sp (from center) of previous Spoke.
Rows 1 and 2: Work same as Rows 1 and 2 of Spoke 2.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, working through back loops only, sc in first 4 sc, (ch 3, sc in next 4 sc) twice, ch 1, sl st in tip of Spoke 1, ch 1, sc in next 4 sc, ch 3, sc in last 4 sc, sl st in first sc of Rnd 1.
Fasten off.

HALF MOTIF (make 5)
Work same as Full Motif through Spoke 3.
At the end of Spoke 3, sl st in next sc of Rnd 1, then sl st in tip of Spoke 1.
Fasten off.

FINISHING
Following the diagram, arrange Motifs onto a flat surface. With yarn threaded into blunt needle sew the Motifs together wherever the edges touch.

Edging
Rnd 1 (RS): From RS, join yarn with an sc in tip of any Spoke, *sc in each st and 2 sc in each ch-3 sp to next Spoke, ch 4, sc in tip of next Spoke; rep from * around; join with sl st in first sc.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each st and 5 sc in each ch-4 sp around; join with sl st in first sc.
Rnds 3-5: Ch 1, sc in each st around; join with sl st in first sc.
Rnd 6: Ch 1, rev sc in each st around; join with sl st in first sc.
Fasten off.
Weave in ends.
Beads
With sewing needle and thread, sew 1 large bead in the center of each Motif and, following diagram, sew 6 small beads along right edge of Capelet.
Use the small beads as buttons, buttoning them into the spaces between sts as desired.

ABBREVIATIONS / REFERENCES
Click for explanation and illustration

ch(s) = chain(s) ch-space = space previously made
rnd(s) = round(s) RS = right side
sc = single crochet sk = skip
sl st = slip stitch st(s) = stitch(es)

source - Wedding Capelet

The Barking Groom Tuxedo And Top Hat

2015-11-01T09:29:00.000-08:00

SKILL LEVEL: Easy + (Level 3)

SIZE: Varies

Small/Medium (Large)
Finished Chest About 18 (22) in. (45.5 (56) cm)
Finished Length About 15 1/2 (20) in. (39.5 (51) cm)
Finished Neck About 13 1/2 (16 1/2) in. (34.5 (42) cm)

Note: Pattern is written for smaller size with changes for larger size in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to both sizes. To follow pattern more easily, circle all numbers pertaining to your size before beginning.

GAUGE:

16 sc + 17 1/2 rows = about 4 in. (10 cm), with larger hook.

When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. The needle or hook size called for in the pattern is based on what the designer used, but it is not unusual for gauge to vary from person to person. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make your swatch, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

Making a Gauge Swatch
STITCH EXPLANATION:
*************************************************************************
rev sc (reverse single crochet) Single crochet worked from left to right (right to left, if left-handed). Insert hook into next stitch to the right (left), under loop on hook, and draw up a loop. Yarn over, draw through all loops on hook.
sc2tog (sc 2 sts together) (Insert hook in next st and draw up a loop) twice, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook – 1 st decreased.
**************************************************************************
NOTES:

1. Tuxedo is worked in one piece beginning at tails.
2. Sleeves are worked directly onto the Tuxedo.
3. Bow Tie, Boutonniere, and other details are worked separately, then sewn to Tuxedo.
4. Top Hat is worked in one piece and stiffened with cardboard.

Yarn colors for D yarn
Red (E)
Sparkling Peach (F)

TUXEDO
First Tail
With larger hook and A, ch 3.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next ch.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, work 2 sc in first st, sc in last st – you will have 3 sc.
Rows 3-13 (17): Ch 1, turn, work 2 sc in first st, sc in each st across – you will have 14 (18) sc at the end of Row 13 (17).
Fasten off.
Second Tail
Make same as first tail, but do not fasten off.
Join Tails
Next Row (WS): Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across second tail; from WS, sc in each st across first tail – 28 (36) sts.
Increase Row (RS): Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first sc, sc in each st to last sc, 2 sc in last sc – 30 (38) sts.
Rep Increase Row 3 more times – 36 (44) sts.
Next 6 (12) Rows: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Rep Increase Row 18 (22) times – 72 (88) sts.
Next 4 (6) Rows: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Shape Leg Openings
Next Row (WS): Ch 1, turn, sc in first 6 (7) sts, ch 16 (20), skip next 16 (20) sts for leg opening, sc in next 28 (34) sts, ch 16 (20), skip next 16 (20) sts for leg opening, sc to end of row – 40 (48) sc and 2 ch-sps.
Shirt Front
Notes: 1. Before beginning the shirt front, wind B into 2 separate balls. Use a separate ball of yarn for each section of color, do not carry color across WS of piece.
2. To change yarn color, work last st of old color to last yarn over. Yarn over with new color and draw through all loops to complete st.
Row 1 (RS): With B, ch 1, turn, with B, sc in first st; with A, sc in each st and ch to last st; with B, sc in last st.
Row 2: With B, ch 1, turn, sc in first 2 sts; with A, sc in each st to last 2 sts; with B, sc in last 2 sts.
Row 3 With B, ch 1, turn, sc in first 3 sts; with A, sc in each st to last 3 sts; with B, sc in last 3 sts.
Row 4: With B, ch 1, turn, sc in first 4 sts; with A, sc in each st to last 4 sts; with B, sc in last 4 sts.
Next 5 (7) Rows: Continue as established working 1 more st with B at the beg and end of each row.
When these 5 (7) rows have been completed, you will have 9 (11) sts worked with B at each end of last row.
Next 5 (7) rows: With B, ch 1, turn, sc in first 9 (11) sts; with A, sc in each st to last 9 (11) sts; with B, sc in each of last 9 (11) sts.
Shape Collar
Cut A, continue with B only.
Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, *sc in each of next 6 sts, sc2tog; rep from * across – 63 (77) sts.
Row 3: Rep Row 1.
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, *sc in next 5 sts, sc2tog; rep from * across – 54 (66) sts.
Rows 5 and 6: Rep Row 1.
Row 7: Ch 1, do not turn, work rev sc in each st across.
Fasten off.
Sleeves
From RS with larger hook, join A with a sl st anywhere along edge of one leg opening.
Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 1, work sc spaced evenly around leg opening; join with sl st in first sc.
Rnds 2-16: Ch 1, sc in each st around; join with sl st in first sc.
Fasten off.
Cuff
From RS with larger hook, join B with a sl st in same st as joining of Rnd 16.
Rnds 17 and 18: Ch 1, sc in each st around; join with sl st in first sc.
Rnd 19: Ch 1, work in rev sc around; join with sl st in beg ch-1.
Fasten off.

BUTTON TAB
With smaller hook and A, ch 10.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across – 9 sc.
Rows 2 and 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Edging
Ch 1, do not turn, work sc evenly spaced around outside edge of Tab join with sl st in first sc.
Fasten off.
Place Tab on Tuxedo back, just above where tails join. With sewing needle and thread, sew a bead to each end of Tab, sewing through both thicknesses to sew Tab to Tuxedo.

BOW TIE
With larger hook and C, ch 20.
Row 1: Hdc in 2nd ch from hook (beg 2 ch does not count as hdc) and in each ch across.
Rows 2-10: Ch 1, turn, working in back loops only, hdc in each st across.
Row 11: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Fasten off.
Tie
Ch 8, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across.
Fasten off.
Wrap Tie around center of Bow Tie.

BOUTONNIERE
Large Petals
With smaller hook and E, ch 16.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across – 15 sc.
Rows 2-8: Ch 1, turn, working in back loops only, sc in each st across.
Fasten off.
Tie a strand of E tightly around center of piece to make 2 petals.
Small Petals
With smaller hook and F, ch 14.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across – 13 sc.
Rows 2-8: Ch 1, working in back loops only, sc in each st across.
Fasten off.
Tie a length of F tightly around center of piece to make 2 petals.
Place small petals on top of large petals. With sewing needle and thread, sew a bead through the center of the stacked petals to attach the bead and sew the petals tog.

TOP HAT
With smaller hook and A, beg at top of hat, ch 2.
Rnd 1: Work 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook; join with sl st in first sc.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, work 2 sc in each st around; join with sl st in first sc – 16 sc.
Rnd 3: Ch 1, *sc in next st, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around; join with sl st in first sc – 24 sc.
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in each st around; join with sl st in first sc.
Rep Rnd 4 until piece measures 2 1/2 in. (6.5 cm) across.
Next Rnd: Ch 1, working in back loops only, sc in each st around; join with sl st in first sc.
Sides
Rnds 1-4: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each st around; join with sl st in first sc – you will have 20 sc at the end of Rnd 4.
Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in each st around; join with sl st in first sc.
Rep Rnd 5 until sides measure 3 in. (7.5 cm) from top of Hat.
Brim
Rnd 1: Ch 1, *sc in next st, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around; join with sl st in first sc – 30 sc.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, *sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around; join with sl st in first sc – 40 sc.
Rnd 3: Ch 1, *sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around; join with sl st in first sc – 50 sc.
Rnd 4: Ch 1, *sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around; join with sl st in first sc – 60 sc.
Fasten off.
Hat Band
With smaller hook and B, ch 20.
Row 1: Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across.
Fasten off.
Bow
With smaller hook and C, ch 5.
Row 1 (RS): (3 dc, ch 3, sl st) in 4th ch from hook, (sl st, ch 3, 3 dc, ch 3, sl st) in next ch.
Fasten off.
Tie a strand of B around center of Bow, then tie Bow to Hat Band.
Wrap Hat Band around Hat and, with sewing needle and thread, sew to Hat.

FINISHING
Tuxedo
Sew edges tog at center front of Tuxedo.
With larger hook and B, work 2 rows of surface sc, one on each side of front seam of shirt front, as follows.
1. Make a slip knot, but do not place it on hook.
2. Insert hook from RS to WS through crochet fabric at lower end of front seam.
3. Place the slip knot on hook and draw loop to RS (keep beg tail and working yarn on WS).
4. *Insert hook from RS to WS through fabric a short distance above last insertion location, yarn over, draw loop through fabric, yarn over and draw through both loops on hook (surface sc made); rep from * inserting hook, as desired, to create surface pattern.
5. Fasten off.
Note: To end a section of surface sc, remove hook from loop and take hook to WS. Insert hook from WS to RS, place loop on hook, draw loop through to WS. Cut yarn. Draw yarn tail through final loop and pull tight.

Edging
From RS, with larger hook, join A with a sl st anywhere along outside edge of Tuxedo.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, work sc evenly spaced around outside edge of Tuxedo; join with sl st in beg sc.
Fasten off.

Cummerbund
From RS with smaller hook, join C with a sl st at beg of lower front curve (on underbody of Tuxedo).
Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, work 36 (44) sc evenly spaced across lower front curve, sl st in side edge of Tuxedo.
Rows 2-4: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 6 (8) sts, hdc in next 8 (10) sts, dc in next 8 sts, hdc in next 8 (10) sts, sc in next 6 (8) sts, sl st in side edge of Tuxedo.
Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across, sl st in side edge of Tuxedo.
Fasten off.

Sew Boutonniere to Tuxedo near one edge of shirt front. Sew Bow Tie to center front of neck. Sew 2 beads at center front of Tuxedo, below shirt front, for buttons.
Roll cardboard into a cylinder and slip into Hat to determine how much the ends of the cylinder should overlap. Remove cylinder from Hat and tape overlap together. With tip of sharp scissors, punch a hole in each side of lower edge of cardboard for elastic. Tie one end of elastic to one of the punched holes. Place the cylinder on your dog to determine how long to cut elastic – this should be a comfortable length to go under the dog's chin.
When you've determined the correct length, tie other end of elastic to other punched hole and slip the cylinder back into the Hat.
Weave in ends.

ABBREVIATIONS / REFERENCES
Click for explanation and illustration

beg = begin(s)(ning) ch(s) = chain(s)
ch-space = space previously made dc = double crochet
hdc = half double crochet rep = repeat(s)(ing)
rnd(s) = round(s) RS = right side
sc = single crochet sl st = slip stitch
sp(s) = space(s) st(s) = stitch(es)
tog = together WS = wrong side

source - The Barking Groom Tuxedo And Top Hat

Say Woof To The Dress

2015-11-01T09:21:00.000-08:00

SKILL LEVEL: Easy + (Level 3)

SIZE: One Size

Finished Chest About 18 in. (45.5 cm)
Finished Length About 14 in. (35.5 cm)
Headpiece About 5 1/2 in. (14 cm) across

GAUGE:

Center Heart = about 5 in. (12.5 cm) across at widest + 4 in. (10 cm) tall from lower point to center dip at top.

When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. The needle or hook size called for in the pattern is based on what the designer used, but it is not unusual for gauge to vary from person to person. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make your swatch, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

Making a Gauge Swatch
STITCH EXPLANATION:

fan Dc in indicated ch-sp, (ch 1, dc in same ch-sp) 4 times.
sc2tog (sc 2 sts together) (Insert hook in next st and draw up a loop) twice, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook – 1 st decreased.

NOTES:

1. Dress is worked in 2 pieces: Back and Underpiece.
2. Both pieces begin with a Heart Center.
3. Headpiece is made with a crochet cord for the base. Flowers and Leaves are worked separately. Tulle is gathered and sewn to the wrong side of one Flower.
4. Dress and Headpiece are embellished with sewn-on beads.
5. The Dress is very flexible and can stretch to fit a range of sizes. Size of the leg openings can be adjusted to fit your dog.
6. Stitch diagrams are provided to clarify construction of the Dress.

Click for PDF of Back Stitch Diagram.
Click for PDF of Underpiece Stitch Diagram.
Click for PDF of Stitch Key.

Yarn Colors for C Yarn
Red (D)
Pea Green (E)
Sparkling Peach (F)

DRESS
BACK
Center Heart
With larger hook and A, ch 10.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each of next 3 ch, (sc, ch 3, sc) in next ch, sc in last 4 ch – you will have 10 sc, and 1 center ch-3 sp at the end of this row.
Rows 2-5: Ch 5, turn, 2 sc in first sc, sc in each st to center ch-3 sp, (sc, ch 3, sc) in center ch-3 sp, sc in each st to last sc, 2 sc in last sc – 26 sc, 1 center ch-3 sp, and a beg ch-5 sp in Row 5.
Rows 6-10: Ch 5, turn, sc2tog, sc in each st to center ch-3 sp, (sc, ch 3, sc) in center ch-3 sp, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog.
Row 11: Ch 5, turn, sc2tog, (ch 5, sk next st, sc in next st) 5 times, ch 5, sk next st, (sc, ch 5, sc) in center ch-3 sp, (ch 5, sk next st, sc in next st) 5 times, ch 5, sk next st, sc2tog – you will have 23 ch-5 sps all the way around the outer edge of the heart.
Fasten off.
Outer Lace
Rnd 1 (RS): From RS with larger hook, join B with sc at top center (inner corner) of center heart, working in chains at base of Row 1 sts, (ch 3, sk next ch, sc in next ch) twice; (ch 3, sc in next ch-5 sp) 23 times; working in chains at base of Row 1 sts, ch 3, sc in first ch, ch 3, sk next ch, sc in next ch, ch 3, sk next ch; join with sl st in first sc – 28 sc and 28 ch-3 sps.
Rnds 2-5: (Sl st, ch 1, sc) in first ch-sp, *ch 5, sc in next ch-sp; rep from * around, ch 5; join with sl st in first sc – 28 sc and 28 ch-5 sps.
Rnd 6: Sl st in next ch-5 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), 4 dc in same ch-5 sp, 5 dc in each ch-5 sp around; join with sl st in top of beg ch – 140 dc.
Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc in each st around; join with sl st in first sc.
Rnds 8 and 9: Ch 1, working in back loops only, sc in each st around; join with sl st in first sc.
Note: Place a marker on any st of Rnd 9 You will be sewing along this rnd later when joining Back and Underpiece.
Rnd 10: Ch 1, sc in first st, *ch 5, sk next st, sc in next st; rep from * to last st; ch 5; join with sl st in first sc – 70 ch-5 sps.
Rnds 11 and 12: (Sl st, ch 1, sc) in first ch-5 sp, *ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp; rep from * around, ch 5; join with sl st in first sc.
Rnd 13: (Sl st, ch 1, sc) in first ch-5 sp, ch 1, fan in next ch-5 sp, *ch 1, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 1, fan in next ch-5 sp; rep from * around, ch 1; join with sl st in first sc – 35 sc, 35 fans, and 210 ch-1 sps (including the ch-1 sps in the fans).
Rnd 14: Ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, (ch 3, sc in next ch-1 sp) 5 times; rep from * around; join with sl st in first sc.
Fasten off.

UNDERPIECE
Center Heart
With smaller hook and A, make center heart same as for Back.
Outer Lace
Rnd 1: From RS with larger hook, working in chains at base of Row 1 sts, join B with sc in 2nd ch before ch at center top of heart, (ch 3, sk next ch, sc in next ch) 3 times; (ch 3, sc in next ch-5 sp) 23 times; working in chains at base of Row 1 sts, ch 3, sc in first ch, ch 3, sk next ch; join with sl st in first sc – 28 sc and 28 ch-3 sps.
Rnd 2: (Sl st, ch 1, sc) in first ch-3 sp, *ch 5, sc in next ch-sp; rep from * around, ch 5; join with sl st in first sc.
Rnd 3: Sl st in first ch-5 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same ch-5 sp, 3 dc in each ch-5 sp around, dc in first ch-5 sp once more; join with sl st in top of beg ch – 84 dc.
Rnds 4 and 5: Ch 1, sc in same st as joining and in each st around; join with sl st in first sc.
Make Leg Openings
Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in first 10 sc, ch 18, sk next 14 sc for leg opening, sc in next 36 sc, ch 18, sk next 14 sc for leg opening, sc in last 10 sc; join with sl st in first sc – 56 sc and 2 ch-18 sp leg openings (for a total of 92 sts).
Note: Pause after Rnd 6 and try Underpiece on your dog.
If the leg openings are too small or too large, unravel Rnd 6, and adjust the number of chains you make at each leg opening.
Be sure to add or subtract a multiple of 4 chains from each opening.
Rnd 7: Ch 1, working in each sc and ch, sc in first st, *ch 5, sk next st, sc in next st; rep from * around, ch 5; join with sl st in first sc – 46 ch-5 sps.
Rnds 8-10: Rep Rnds 12-14 of Back outer lace – you will have 23 fans in Rnd 9.
Fasten off.

HEADPIECE
CORD
With smaller hook and A, ch 4; join with sl st in first ch to form a ring.
Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 1, work 4 sc in ring; join with sl st in first sc.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each st around; join with sl st in first sc.
Rep Rnd 2 until cord measures about 14 in. (35.5 cm).
Fasten off.

LEAF BORDER
With smaller hook and E, ch 41.
Row 1 (RS): Dc in 8th ch from hook (skipped 7 ch count as 2 base ch, first dc, and ch-2 sp), *ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next ch; rep from * to end – 13 dc and 12 ch-2 sps at the end of this row.
Row 2: Turn, *ch 3, sk next ch-2 sp of Row 1, place marker in next dc, then sc in the marked dc, ch 3 (counts as dc), turn, 4 dc in the last ch-3 sp made, ch 1, turn, 5 dc around post of marked dc, then sl st in top of the same marked dc, remove marker; rep from * across.
Fasten off.

SMALL POPPIES (make 2)
Large Petals (make 2)
With smaller hook and D, ch 16.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across – 15 sc.
Rows 2-8: Ch 1, turn, working in back loops only, sc in each st across.
Fasten off.
Tie a length of D tightly around center of each petal.
Small Petals (make 2) With smaller hook and F, ch 14.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across – 13 sc.
Rows 2-8: Ch 1, turn, working in back loops only, sc in each st across.
Fasten off.
Tie a length of F tightly around center of each petal.
Layer a small petal on top of each large petal. With sewing needle and thread, sew a bead through the center of the poppy, sewing all the way through to join the petals tog.

LARGE POPPY
With smaller hook and F, ch 5; join with sl st in first ch to form a ring.
Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), work 11 dc in ring; join with sl st in top of beg ch – 12 dc.
Rnd 2: Ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), sk next st, dc in next st, (ch 3, sk next st, dc in next st) 4 times, ch 3; join with sl st in 3rd of beg ch – 6 dc and 6 ch-3 sps.
Rnd 3: Ch 1, (sc, ch 2, dc, tr, dc, ch 2, sc) in each ch-3 sp around; join with sl st in first sc – 6 petals.
Fasten off.
Rnd 4: From RS, join D with a sl st in same sc as joining, ch 1, *sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, 2 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next tr, 2 dc in next dc, ch 1, sc in next ch-2 sp; rep from * around; join with sl st in first sc.
Rnd 5: Ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, 2 tr in each of next 6 dc, sc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * around; join with sl st in first sc.
Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in each st around; join with sl st in first sc.
Fasten off.

LEAVES (make 2)
With larger hook and E, ch 8.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, (sc, ch 1, sc) in last ch; working across opposite side of foundation ch, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in last 2 ch – 14 sts and 1 ch-1 sp.
Fasten off.

FINISHING
Dress
Notes:
1. When joining the Underpiece to the Back of the Dress, only a portion of the 'sides' are sewn.
2. Refer to the diagram before you begin sewing the pieces together.
3. The underpiece is smaller than the back of the Dress. When the pieces are sewn together, the Back will 'cup' slightly to create a better fit on your dog.

With WS of pieces tog, place Underpiece on top of Back with Center Hearts matching. You will be sewing the sides of Rnd 6 (leg opening rnd) of Underpiece to Rnd 9 (marked) of the Back.
The leg openings remain open. Referring to diagram, begin sewing about 1 in. (2.5 cm) above leg openings and sew to about 3 1/2 in. (9 cm) below openings.
Sew 6 beads spaced evenly along middle of Center Heart on Back. Sew 3 beads spaced evenly down middle of Center Heart on Underpiece.
Leg Opening Edging
From RS with larger hook, join B with a sl st anywhere along edge of one leg opening. Ch 1, sc evenly around opening; join with sl st in first sc.
Fasten off.
Rep edging around other leg opening.
Headpiece Assembly
Sew ends of Cord together to make a ring. Twist ring to make a figure '8', then sew a few stitches through center to secure.
With sewing needle and thread, gather one long edge of tulle. Draw up gathers so that the tulle is the same length as the Leaf Border. Sew gathered tulle to WS of Leaf Border, then sew Leaf Border to Large Poppy.
With sewing needle and thread, sew 3 beads to center of Large Poppy, then sew Large Poppy to Cord.
Sew a Small Poppy to each looped end of Cord.
Sew a Leaf to Cord at the base of each Small Poppy.
Tie one end of elastic to Cord, just behind one Small Poppy.
Try the headpiece on your dog to determine how long to cut elastic – this should be a comfortable length to go under the dog's chin. When you've determined the correct length, tie other end of the elastic cord behind remaining Small Poppy.
Trim elastic ends.

ABBREVIATIONS / REFERENCES
Click for explanation and illustration

beg = begin(s)(ning) ch(s) = chain(s)
dc = double crochet hdc = half double crochet
rep = repeat(s)(ing) rnd(s) = round(s)
RS = right side sc = single crochet
sk = skip sl st = slip stitch
sp(s) = space(s) st(s) = stitch(es)
tog = together WS = wrong side

source - Say Woof To The Dress