khrome at play

Protective Skins for Your Gadgets

2012-11-06T22:37:00.004-08:00

I've owned enough gadgets and have been through so many different types of cases, offering different levels of protection, that I know exactly what I'm looking for now. I want to share with you two excellent protective skins but before I do that, I need to explain that these are for a certain demographic of user. These are for people that are already careful with their gadgets and just need something lightweight and scratch resistant. If you work in a harsh environment, or tend to drop things, these aren't for you, as they do not offer any shock protection. However, if you want to be able to throw your device into your purse or slide it into your pocket without worrying about it, these are perfect.

ZAGG InvisibleSHIELD

Nintendo DSi XL with ZAGG InvisibleSHIELD

Taken from their FAQ - "The invisibleSHIELD - ZAGG's customized, patented flagship product is tough. Created from a resilient film that was first used to protect U.S. Military helicopter blades from high-speed damage, the invisibleSHIELD is your personal electronics defender. This rugged film wraps around consumer electronics and keeps them functioning and looking great, just like the day they came out of the box. Featuring ZAGG's exclusive Nano-Memory technology, the invisibleSHIELD has unique properties that provide self-healing qualities and unrivaled abrasion resistance. Custom designed for thousands of devices, including mobile phones, digital media players, laptops, GPS devices, handheld gaming systems, watches, digital cameras ad more, millions of invisibleSHIELDs have been sold with ZAGG's Lifetime Replacement Guarantee."

I am a fan of anything mil-spec, so this product immediately caught my attention back when there were only decorative silicone skins available. The lifetime replacement is hassle-free - it can be requested right from your account on their website, and you just have to pay for shipping. This is great for me, since I tend to walk into walls while holding my gadget out in front of me. :P Note, you must purchase the product from their website in order to qualify for the replacement guarantee.

The InvisibleSHIELD has what they call an "orange peel texture" and a slightly tacky feel. It offers more assurance that you are not going to drop your device, especially those with smooth, matte finishes like the Kindle Fire.

They provide a screen protector which is the same orange peel texture, claiming that it is anti-reflective, but I cannot confirm that. I prefer "real" anti-reflective screen protectors since I tend to use my devices outdoors a lot. So I cannot say I recommend InvisibleSHIELD for screens since I haven't tried it.

Check out this impressive scratch test video to get an idea of the kind of beating it can take, which is considerably a lot more than your device would take, in your purse or pocket.

Skinomi - Brushed Metal Series


Nintendo 3DS XL with Skinomi Brushed Aluminum skin.


Comparison of skin and real brushed aluminum.

One drawback to ZAGG is that gaming consoles are not their highest priority. So it's a toss-up whether or not they are going to come up with a template for your gaming device. It turned out to be a good thing because that's how I discovered Skinomi. Skinomi offers a clear skin that sounds really similar to ZAGG but also offers decorative, textured skins with the same durable strength.

From their website - "TechSkin is the next generation of clear protectors for your devices. It is the toughest scratch protection film in the world made of the same material used to protect luxury cars, military aircrafts and NASA space shuttles. TechSkin has the ability to resist some of the highest level of abrasion. Durability combined with "self healing" technology makes TechSkin truly scratch-proof......Our film material also contains a patented acrylic adhesive that separates us from the competition. Unlike other clear film protectors, our extra thin layer provides additional protection against lubricants, oils, UV rays, and corrosion."

I was pretty upset that the Nintendo 3DS XL was only available in silver in Europe but after I installed Skinomi's Brushed Aluminum on a blue 3DS XL, I was MORE than pleased with the results. The template is slightly smaller than the device, allowing a bit of color to peek through, making for some pretty nice accents. My blue/silver 3DS XL now reminds me of Babylon 5 or R2-D2. :-) The texture is amazing close to real brushed aluminum, as shown in the picture. But it's a bit lighter in color, almost white, under some lighting. I think a red 3DS XL would look great with their black Carbon Fiber skin. Aside from Brushed Metal and Carbon Fiber, Natural Wood skins are also available.

Both ZAGG and Skinomi skins come in sections (ZAGG, with different levels of coverage available) which allows for a little flexibility. I chose not to install the sides on my 3DS XL because I prefer the matte black look on those parts.

The following is a breakdown of the layers of a Skinomi skin:

Links:

- http://www.zagg.com/
- http://www.skinomi.com

QR Codes for Babylon 5 Mii Characters

2012-10-17T03:08:00.000-07:00

I was getting impatient trying to figure out how to get my Mii's on www.miicharacters.com so I'm just going to post them here instead. I'll figure out that site later.

I tried using the "Mii from Photo" feature for all of these but it didn't work that well, so I just imagined how I would draw each character, then tried to find the elements in Mii Maker that matched. I know there are probably better ways to construct these guys so I've set these to copying "allowed."

John Sheridan

Susan Ivanova

Michael Garibaldi

Stephen Franklin

Delenn

Londo Mollari

G'kar

Lyta Alexander

Lennier

Vir Cotto

When One-Size-Fits-Most Eyeglass Frames Never Fit

2012-06-26T15:22:00.000-07:00

I hate shopping for new eyeglasses. With over 300 million unique faces in the world, you'd hope that there would be a wider variety of fit and form. Contrary to what frame designers believe, one-size-fits-most doesn't fit a lot of people, especially those with a flat or narrow nose bridge. Most Asians fall into this category which reduces our selection of frames by practically half because we are limited to metal frames with nose pad arms. Plastic frames, being the trend these days, means there's even less of a selection of metal/rimless frames. One website sought to help solve this problem by testing Asian-friendly plastic frames. You can find them here at Eyewear Envy. They have done a fantastic job but unfortunately I didn't see anything I wanted there.

Luckily, I found a video on YouTube showing how nose pad arms can be added to plastic frames. I couldn't find a local repair shop that offered this service but the company that made the video, All-American Eyeglass Repair, has a fast and convenient mail-in repair service. Not only did they add functionality to my frames, their selection of colored titanium nose pad arms blend in with the frame, making them look like they belong there.

So if you have trouble finding frames that fit - frames that don't constantly slide down your nose or ride on your cheeks - I highly recommend either of the two solutions above.

...Or have someone make you an Opti-Grab a'la Steve Martin in "The Jerk." :-)

Handmade Jewelry

2010-11-24T22:18:00.000-08:00

Before I go into my topic for this entry, I want to apologize for the lack of posts this year. This has been a very hectic and stressful year, with many changes in my life as well as in my hobbies and interests. I still have a few photography-related blogs I need to post, which was the hobby-of-the-moment in 2009. But this year, I went back to my first love, music. I'm hoping to put together some videos to share soon.

But on to subject of handmade jewelry. I have two online stores to share with you, just in time for the holiday season.

Bernardini Designs
http://www.artfire.com/users/bernardinidesigns
http://www.etsy.com/shop/pbsnaps

Pat Bernardini of Bernardini Designs is a multi-talented artist that enjoys working with different mediums and loves to learn new techniques. From her bio:

Background in fine art and photography. Compulsive crafter including furniture making, fish decoy carving, jewelry design, photoshop, quilting etc. etc. Love to learn new techniques and to create one of a kind jewelry items combining vintage components with contemporary and reproduction findings.

In her store, she sells photography prints as well as jewelry. If you read some of the descriptions of the jewelry, you'll find that she can hold on to a component for years until she finds just the right piece to go with it. The results are timeless fashion pieces with personality and soul. She is inspired by the Victorian and other classic eras, and especially by the jewelry of Frida Kahlo.

LongLocks HairSticks
http://www.longlocks.com

I've actually known of LongLocks since before I started this blog and can't believe I haven't mentioned it yet. If you are tired of trendy hairstyles and want to go for a classy, clean look, hairsticks are the way to go. Susan Maxwell makes some of the best on the 'net. Toppers can be crystals, gemstones, glass, silver, and at one point she was making her own beads out of polymer clay but I don't know if she still does. Her stick finishes almost rival the beauty of the beads. They include foiled, marbled, mineral leaf, one that looks like it's sugar-coated, and others. Most designs are one-of-a-kind and come with a certificate. If you already own a particulat design, it's possible to have it duplicated. Or if you are having them custom made for a bridal party, then they can of course be duplicated.

My hair is no longer long enough for hairsticks so I haven't bought any in a while. But you can see my collection in my gallery as well as different updo styles. (Not all the sticks are by LongLocks, though.)
http://www.loopfree.net/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=19438

Photos by khrome: (top) Victorian Black Poppy Necklace by Bernardini Designs; (bottom) Strawberry Tea by LongLocks Hairsticks

Nutcracker Greeting Cards - Battle of the Mouse King

2009-12-10T03:29:00.000-08:00

This year, I continued with the Nutcracker theme for my holiday greeting cards, with another scene from the story - the battle of the Mouse King. I had decided last year that I wanted the next character I showcased to be the Mouse King but that was all I really knew. I made a rough sketch but as I started making the card, the design kind of evolved on it's own. The whole process was organic, much different from what I'm used to. In the end, I was happy, and surprised, with the results - surprised because I had so much doubt in the beginning.

So without boring you with my whole thought process of how I got here, here is my card and how I ended up making it. The type of card is called a View Master card, though I didn't know that's what it was called when I made it. Basically, you have a disk with images on it that is attached in the center to another piece that has a window. As you turn the disk, the image in the window changes. On the other side of the disk, I put a quote from the Nutcracker by E.T.A. Hoffman.

Outside and Inside of the card:

The card in motion:

Materials Used:

SU Kraft Card Stock
SU Vanilla Card Stock
SU "Sens du Temps" stamp
SU "Bella Toile" background stamp
SU "To the Nines" DSP
SU Chocolate Chip Classic Ink Pad
Gold Encore Ink Pad
"Mouse King Battle" original artwork by Me
Holiday sentiment stamp
Gold mini-brads
SU Pop-up Glue Dots
Aileen's craft glue

Tools Used:

Ink Daubers
Fiskars Ultra ShapeExpress with circle and oval templates
EK Success Circle Scissor Plus
Crop-a-Dile II Big Bite Punch
Tablet PC
Injet printer
Photoshop CS2
"Starry Night" font by Laura Ashpole

Creating the Artwork

To create the artwork, I first made a mockup of the card so that I would know where the window would be and what part of the disk would be showing through it. Once I made my mockup, I put a pen through the window and kept it there as I moved the disk. I did this for the top and bottom of the window. From that, I determined my measurements:

Then in Photoshop, I created a file with each of the characters I wanted on the disk - each character in their own layer pairs. This was done at a higher resolution than the finished artwork because it's easier to get rid of data than to create data from thin air, should I make the graphic too small.

I copied the file, and in the copy set up the guides for the disk, merged the pairs of character layers, and placed them around the disk. If you do this and are going to use a background color on your disk, make sure the color extends past the dimensions of the disk. This is called "bleed", and it's to ensure that if you don't cut out the artwork in a perfect circle, that there won't be any white crescent-shaped edges where the color didn't reach.

I then created the back of the disk, which has a quote from the book, shaped in a spiral. I printed the front and back disks on to Vanilla Card Stock, cut them out, and daubed the edges with Chocolate Chip ink to hide the white cross-section of the paper. Then I glued the backs and fronts together. The quote says:

My Philosophy About Digital Artwork

once using the software becomes intuitive

Creating the Card

I first cut my card stock in half, then scored each piece down the center. Using a plain sheet of paper to mask the left side, I stamped the Bella Toile background stamp with Gold ink. I then cut the oval window out.

I used a dauber to sponge gold ink at the corners of the cards, then cut strips of DSP and glued them to the card

I stamped clock faces on Kraft Card Stock, without including the clock hands, then cut ovals in the top half of the clock. In the story, the battle takes place at midnight, and the hands were permanently fixed at 8:17. Making individual hands would have been a pain - that's how I came up with the oval window idea to take up that space.

With a lightly-inked dauber, I used a sort of flicking motion to color the inside of the ovals. I then used a rubbing motion with the dauber to apply color to the outside edges of the clocks. This will give a nice gradient on the inside - it doesn't matter if color goes past the line because it will get covered in the next step (this only works if your next ink is opaque.)

I stamped an extra clock face and cut right along the outside edge of the circle. This circle was used as a mask. I placed the mask over the real clock, and daubed Gold ink around the edges, making sure to extend past the dimensions of where I will cut the outer circle.

I then cut out the clocks. They are looking pretty good at this point but kind of flat.

To add dimension, I used a dauber with Chocolate Chip ink to "flick" more ink along the edge of the clock.

I used Glue Dots to affix the clock faces to the cards.

I punched a 1/8" hole in the center of the disks and secondhand clock, separately, so I could make sure they were centered. And finally, assembled them with a gold brad.

Sewing Project #11: Aprons for Mom

2009-12-08T23:00:00.000-08:00

It has been a while since I've sewn, so it was really nice get back into it with this easy apron project. This was actually a request from my mom - she had one particular apron that she really liked so she asked me to copy it but she wanted me to add a cellphone pocket on the chest. Her apron just resembles a large bib on the front and back, that ties on the side. It was so un-inspiring that I procrastinated for 6 months before making it. My friends and I dubbed it "the lead apron" because it resembles the cover they put over you at the dentist to protect you when they take x-rays. :-) I suggested to my mom a nice, vintage-style apron but she liked the practicality of hers. The back 'bib' kept her from getting the chills when she went outdoors.

I took the apron with me and had it for several months. Eventually, my mom needed it back but all I had done was write down the measurements. I had never drafted my own pattern before and thought this one would be easy. But as the end of the year came, more projects piled in and I just wanted to get it done. After searching sewingpatterns.com, I found this versatile apron pattern - Simplicity 4987. View 3 most resembled my mom's apron.

My mom's apron is shorter and has rounded corners, but I liked how the straight bottom made it look less "lead-like". View 3 is also a lot longer than her apron, so I shortened it to right below the pockets. Her apron was also unlined - the ones in this pattern are lined, which I liked. Better to keep the chill out, right? :-)

My mom had given me a cute cotton fabric with yellow print, with jugs of daisies all over. She wanted me to make two aprons but unfortunately she had the fabric cut in two 1yd pieces. Because it wasn't continuous, I could only make one. So I dug around my stash and found enough rose-patterned fabric leftover from the empire-waist dress I made (6th project.)

Aprons finally done!

For the Daisy Apron, I wanted to put lace on the outer edge, which was similar to my mom's current apron. I used a nylon lace since my mom would be in the kitchen most of the time and nicer lace would probably just get limp and ratty. I did not put lace along the bottom because both my mom and I are short, so I wanted to accentuate the vertical, not the horizontal. I used a pale plain yellow cotton for the lining, and Forest Green grosgrain ribbon to match the leaves on the flowers.

One thing I learned from adding lace is that when you get to the part in the pattern where you have to sew the side ties to the front or back, you will need to do the lace first THEN the ties. Otherwise your ties will end up on top of the lace.

My mom, modeling the Daisy Apron:

For the Rose Apron, I didn't have enough fabric for all the pockets so I used a pink fabric with faint swirls - same one I used on the Empire Dress. I thought the pink at the bottom looked too bare so I played around with some Sage satin ribbon. At first, I thought I'd put a horizontal stripe near the top of the pockets. But that whole horizontal-making-short-people-look-shorter thing kept bugging me. I suddenly had the idea to do a trellis-like pattern over the pockets. I really liked how it came out! First, I drew a diagram on graph paper so I would know how to space the ribbon. Then using the grid on the cutting board, marked on the front of my fabric where the ribbon should go. I sewed all the ribbon with the ends going passed the seam line so when I sewed the lining to the front, the ends were neatly tucked inside.

Trellis-like pattern on Rose Apron:

As far as things that can be improved in this pattern - the pattern requires you to sew the back and front seperately, outside-in, then flip it inside-out through the shoulder seam. Then you join the shoulder seam. The inside seam is suppose to be slip-stitched. i thought it was better to stitch through all layers, about a centimeter from the seam, so it has a double-stitched appearance. I thought this made it more durable by having all layers sewn together, rather than just one side machine-stitched. I also double-stitched the pockets.

In the end, I loved how the aprons came out (so not "lead-like") and so did my mom. I'll probably make her a few more, and myself one too - but the more stylish View 5 or 6. :-)

Holiday Shopping

2009-12-05T04:00:00.000-08:00

It's that time of year again for holiday shopping! I thought I'd write about a few of my crafty friends, if you are into handmade, self-published, or making gifts yourself. I always find it's nice to give people gifts that are unique and/or handmade, while at the same time you are supporting an individual that you can actually talk to instead of a corporate store.

Steampunk Cuff Links by LilVoodoo's Curios

These beautiful steampunk-inspired cuff links were made by my guildie, Sean. Each one is one-of-a-kind and crafted from salvaged parts. One picture cannot do these little gems justice, as they change color under different light sources and angles, so I've included here a few shots of the set I bought from him.

From his site:

From steampunk jewelry to spiritual talismans, each of our pieces are hand-made and one of a kind.

Looking for something unique and don't see it here, let us know. Whether its a piece of jewelry, gris-gris bag or a little this-and-that in a bottle, we aim to please.

Be sure to click on the "Sold" link to see his past work. They sell fast, so you have to check his store often.

http://www.etsy.com/shop/LilVoodoo

Children's Book by Pamela Strange

"The Only Way To Get To The Backyard Is Through The House" is the first, self-published, work by my friend, Pam.

From Goodreads:
Follow the adventures of Buddie the Cocker Spaniel as he learns that there is more than one way to reach the backyard! This book, geared towards 2 to 5 year olds, teaches concepts such as "in", "through", and "around".

I bought this book for my niece, who really enjoyed it. I'm planning to buy another one for my other niece who is soon to be 2 years old.

Pam enjoys doing readings at book stores and public libraries. She loves to engage her listeners and be interactive, rather than straight reading. She periodically does signings, as well.

Pam contracted Anna Measures to do the illustrations for her book. Here are both Pam's and Anna's biographies from Xlibris:

Pamela Strange has a degree in English Literature from University of South Florida. Her career has been in Information Technology. She is currently employed by Fielding Graduate University based in Santa Barbara, CA. Pam loves dogs, and loves that they love unconditionally. She enjoys reading positive fiction, and aspires to write in that genre as well as Mysteries and Picture Books. She has had the privilege to have been inspired by many loving pets – including Buddie! To all who are young-at-heart from 2 to 102 , may Buddie´s story bring you joy and inspire you. As you find your path, it might even teach you a preposition or two along the way!

Anna Measures - Illustrator Anna Measures lives in Oxnard, California. She currently works as a designer of children´s products and is available for freelance llustration work.

You can order "The Only Way To Get To The Backyard Is Through The House" from:
http://www2.xlibris.com/Bookstore/bookdisplay.aspx?bookid=35568

And you can keep up to date with Pam's news at her website:
http://www.strangewriter.com/

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Make a Cedar-lined Wardrobe Trunk out of a Wine Crate

2009-06-15T00:16:00.000-07:00

In an earlier post, I talked about the problems I ran into with the Silkstone Wardrobe Trunk and the ideas I came up with to solve them. This worked pretty well for a while but as my fashion collection grew, I ran into a new problem - the Silkstone wardrobe simply did not have enough hanging space. Not only that, but the width of the space was not enough for my "poofy dresses" and I cringed everytime I closed it, knowing that they were getting squished every which way.

That is when I thought that a wine crate would lend itself nicely to being a wardrobe trunk. Some of them already come with hinges and latches, eliminating half the work. At first I thought to line it with scrapbook paper but then decided to go with cedar veneer for several reasons.

Aromatic cedar gives off a scent that is a natural repellant of moths, silverfish, and other insects that cause damage to fabrics. It is resistant to bacteria and fungus. Wood in general also absorbs moisture yet allows contents to breathe. Given these properties, I thought a cedar-lined trunk would be the perfect place to store my growing vintage fashion collection. BUT, some websites have said that the oils from cedar are acidic and can cause fabric discoloration, so it's recommended that you hang a piece of acid-free tissue on either end of the pole to seperate your garments from the wood (which I haven't done yet. :-/ ) Cedar comes in red and white varieties. From what I understand, the red variety is more aromatic and is the type you'd want to pick if you are interested in it's bug repelling properties.

There are different types of cedar linings available. There are thin planks which are usually used to line a regular closet, and there are veneers. After determining the layout of my trunk, I decided to go with both - veneers for the side of the box and planks for the shelf. (Planks are expensive though - had I not already had some left over from my real closet, I probably would not have done the shelf. You can always go with other wood types for the shelf too.)

Wine crates also come in different shapes and sizes, and made from different woods or particle board. Some have rope handles, some have sliding tops instead of hinges and latches, etc. Most of the time they are inexpensive - I bought mine for $10 from eBay. Avoid shipping charges by trying to find one locally. I chose the particular box I got because of it's depth - it orignally held 6 wine bottles. But there are flatter ones that hold 3 bottles that would make great doll carriers. You might want to choose a box that has inserts oriented a certain way because the grooves can be used for shelves (once again, less work for you to do.)

Finally, choose your finishing touches. Woodworking stores sell decorative and functional hardware such as handles, corners, clamps, knobs, etc. I got my hardware as well as my veneer from Rockler Woodworking and Hardware.

Veneer can be applied two different ways - I used the simple method using wood glue to make an adhesive backing and an iron to adhere it. If you'd like to use the traditional method with contact cement, there are many places on the web that explain how to do it - I have not tried it myself. To make a trunk exactly like the one I did, you will need:

Materials:

a wine crate with hinges and a latch
aromatic red cedar veneer
cedar closet liner plank
Titebond II wood glue
3/16" wooden dowel
varnish
eight metal corners (match color with latch and hinges)
handle

Tools:

disposable sponge brush or roller brush to apply glue
ruler
pencil
drill with 3/16" drill bit
screwdriver (for handle)
hammer (for corners)
blade to cut veneer with (I used a drywall blade but I think you can use an X-acto #11 blade too)
saw (to cut plank)
iron (you will most likely get glue on the iron - if you have a really nice iron, you might want to consider getting an old used one for crafts.)
sandpaper

1. Measure inside areas of the box and cut veneer to size. Label the back sides of the veneer so you don't forget where they go.

2. Measure width of box and add 2mm and cut dowel to that size. Varnish the dowel.

3. Cut cedar planks to fit grooves

4. Apply two coats of glue to the inside of the box AND on the back side of the veneer. Allow the first coat to dry fully. The second coat can be dry enough to be tacky to the touch to procede to the next step.

5. Set your iron setting to "Cotton". Align the veneer on the case and iron it until it adheres.

6. Measure and mark where you want the dowel. Drill only partway into the case, not all the way through. Carefully insert dowel into the holes - you may have to bend it slightly. You can apply wood glue if you'd like but I found that mine was pretty snug without it.

7. Sand edges of veneer until they are flush with the box.

8. Apply the rest of the hardware according their instructions.

And there you go! As you can see, I left the inside of the lid uncovered because I thought the text added character. But you can cover it veneer if you'd like, or put hooks to hang hats, belts, and purses, or glue a mirror on it - whatever you'd like!

New Album: Barbie Photography

2009-06-13T17:28:00.000-07:00

I have added a new album at My Gallery - it's for my Barbie Photography. Read more about it in the album description. Here is a little sampler of what you'll find there:

Taking photos of Silkstone Barbies was somewhat challenging. With only 6 points of articulation and lack of ball joints, I had to get creative in other ways so the dolls wouldn't look like they were "just there". My goal was to make the dolls look alive, not like inanimate objects. What I found was that this was easier to do with some Silkies than others. With the right facepaint and limb structures, certain dolls lent themselves to a variety of good angles. And especially through facepaint, conveyed personality and attitudes when photographed from certain angles.

Silkstone Wardrobe for the Obsessive Compulsive

2009-04-19T04:18:00.000-07:00

When I first got my Silkstone Wardrobe Case, I ran into a few issues regarding space and organization. In this blog, I list the problems I encountered and the solutions I came up with to fix them. I didn't do an indepth how-to like I usually do for my blogs, partly because it would be too long, and partly because I don't think anyone really wants to know. Of course, if you do have a question, you can leave a comment and I'd be glad to explain something in detail.

None of these ideas require you to make any modifications to the case itself, if you are worried about harming the collectability and value.

EDIT: If you are a BFC Member, I posted detailed instructions on how to make these at barbiecollector.com in the Doll Customization forum. I'll add them here later when I have time.

Lined Jewelry Drawer

Problem:
I didn't like the jewelry scratching against the wood bottom of the drawer, getting mixed up and tangled.

Solution:
The velvet fabric is actually glued to a thin piece of cardboard, cut to the size of the drawer, not glued to the drawer itself. The cardboard keeps the fabric from bunching up.

Sundries Organizer

Problem:
Stockings and gloves would get mismatched and sometimes it was hard to keep things from popping out of the drawer while closing it.

Solution:
I made this organizer out of balsa wood. It's made up of 2 large strips (they form an "X" from corner to corner) and 4 smaller strips which intersect each leg of the "X". I notched the strips so that they all interlock with each other. A Dremel is a good tool to have for this project.

Shoe Rack

This is what the shoe rack looks like out of the drawer

Problem:
I used to keep the shoes just standing in pairs in the drawer but I tended to knock them over when taking them out. When they got mixed up, it was hard to tell which pairs went with what, especially with the black shoes. I ended up having to dump them all out each time.

Solution:
These shoe racks are also made of balsa, and notched to interlock, similar to the sundries organizer. I was kind of experimenting with numbers which is why the drawer on the left holds six pairs of shoes and the one on the right holds eight. As you can see, the heel takes up less room than the front of the shoes, so I should have made these off center to make better use of space.

Extra Garment Rack and Shelf

Problem:
I ran out of space on the original rack, plain and simple.

Solution:
Since I only need one doll slot, I decided to turn the other one into more storage space. I made a structure that would fit the space exactly which would hold the pole, and the top could serve as a shelf. The structure is made of basswood and the pole is a 3/16" wooden dowel. Other tools you will need: a saw, wood glue, paint, drill, paper to line it with.

You can also make a tall structure which could hold two poles, or one with many shelves - whatever configuration you need. If you don't need to carry your doll in the case, you can convert both doll sections to storage. One thing to note is that the depth of that side is not as big as the left side of the case, so that side is not good for poofy dresses or skirts.

Hat Boxes

Babs, holding her hat boxes

Problem:

Like real hats, I wanted a way to store hats so they wouldn't get smashed, and without tossing them into a drawer or out in the open on a shelf

Solution:

I made these hat boxes from round paper mache boxes, eyelets, scrapbooking paper, acrylic paint, and yarn. Measure the circumference of your hat, buy the appropriate size box, and then use a Dremel or saw to cut it down to the right height. The yarn is woven through the eyelets in such a way so that it tightens on the lid when the handle is pulled.

Garment Bag

Can you believe there are four petticoats in this garment bag?

Problem:

Petticoats took up way too much room on the garment rack.

Solution:

After being frustrated with petticoats, I put them in a ziplock and hung them with a clip-style hanger. That worked out so well I decided to design a simple garment bag. It is made of one piece of fabric for the back, two for the front, and a zipper. You do not have to hang the petticoats on the hanger inside of the bag - just simply put them in the bag itself. If I were to do it over, I would make the bag longer (mine is 6.5") because then you can overlap the petticoats all the way down the bag. That will make the bag take up less room, width-wise.

How to Make a Humidifier for Your Ukulele Case

2009-03-14T04:36:00.000-07:00

These are instructions on how to make a tin humidifier for your ukulele (or other wood instrument) case. I designed this metal version after watching a Uke Minutes on Ukulele Underground on how to make a humidifier out of a Pez dispenser. The principles are the same so check out the Uke Minutes for more info, including the ideal humidity levels for your instrument.

NOTE: I don't have a hygrometer yet so I haven't tested how well this humidifier works. Once I get that that info, I will post it here.

My version is made from a 2 inch round tin, metal eyelets, and wet floral foam - all of which you can get at any craft store. Craft tins come in different shapes and sizes. If you are worried about the lid coming off of a round one, I'd recommend the rectangular hinged one, below. Eyelets also come in a variety of colors like silver, bronze, brass, and copper. The eyelets and eyelet setting tools I used are actually for scrapbooking - I bought them from my friend's Stampin' Up catalog.

The exact materials and tools I used here are:

2 inch round tin
13 silver colored eyelets
wet floral foam
drill with 1/8 general purpose drill bit
eyelet setting kit
sharpie or other marker
a quarter coin
cardboard box
cutting mats
knife
water
teaspoon

1. Remove the cover from the container. Use a marker to mark where the holes should be.

2. When I made the prototype, I had a problem with the drill bit slipping. So I added this step - using the eyelet setting tool and a hammer, hammer each marker spot so that the drill bit will have a starting point. Of course, if you are adept at handling a drill you can skip this step.

3. Put the lid on top of a hard cardboard box or other surface you don't mind getting holes in. You don't want to drill holes in your table when the drill bit bursts through the tin. Drill all holes.

4. You no longer need the box. On a flat surface, place an eyelet upside down, turn the lid upside down and align one of the holes over the eyelet. On my particular tin, there was a lip on the outer edge which means the eyelet will just go through when I try to hammer it. So I used a quarter as a sort of mini anvil that can get under that lip. Try finding a flat part of the coin to place the eyelet because patterns on the coin can leave dents in the eyelet.

5. Place the eyelet setting tool into the eyelet

6. Hammer the end of the setting tool until the eyelet mushrooms out.

7. Use the hammer to flatten out the mushroom all the way

8. Using the bottom of the container, mark the wet foam block so that it's slightly smaller than the width of the container. Slice the foam block with a knife.

10. Press the bottom of the container into the sliced foam piece like a cookie-cutter.

11. Remove the scrap foam pieces and press the foam all the way into the container. It should pop in easily.

12. Pour water one teaspoon at a time into the foam until it can't hold anymore water. Make sure to let the excess water drip out. Shake it a little too, if you want. Mine held about 8 teaspoons of water.

13. Cover it and place in your case. That's it!

I haven't done this yet but I would recommend using a piece of velcro to adhere the humidifier to the case.

"The Nutcracker" Handmade Greeting Cards

2009-02-15T21:22:00.000-08:00

I have known of papercrafts such as stamping, cardmaking, and scrapbooking for a while but it wasn't until recently, when my good friend, Erica, became a Stampin' Up demonstrator, that I decided to try it. I'm forever hooked. :-)

For the 2008 holiday season, I made cards that were inspired by The Nutcracker Ballet, candy canes and puppet theaters. The image of Clara, the heroine of The Nutcracker, is my own design that I had made into a stamp. Normally you would hand stamp every card and color each one but I was running out of time in November so I cheated a little - I completed one picture with watercolors and colored pencils, then took a photo of it, printed it out on cotton paper, and sprayed with fixative. The fixative was so that the Crystal Effects glaze, a glue-like substance to give the image a 3D effect, wouldn't soak through the paper.

I used four different types of red paper for the stripes - I picked the pattern depending on who I was giving it to, for example my male friends got the diamond patterned one because it looked more masculine.

The puppet theater frame is made of polymer clay which I will go into more detail, below.

The materials below can be bought at the Stampin' Up website:

Very Vanilla Cardstock *
Red Riding Hood DSP *
Bella Rose DSP *
Bella Toile Background Stamp *
Chocolate Chip Classic Ink Pad *
Gold Encore! Ink Pad *
Cotton Paper
Matte Fixative
Winsor & Newton Watercolors
Prismacolor Colored Pencils
Crystal Effects *
Sculpey Polymer Clay
Dremel with Sanding Bit
Florentine Gold Liquid Leaf
my custom stamp

I really enjoyed this papercraft project and I hope to continue the Nutcracker theme by making a stamp of the other characters each year!

Clara, from Concept to Custom Stamp

Clara was inspired by the super cute, super expensive ball-jointed dolls from Japan that I will never be able to afford. :-) I spent a lot of time on the Volks website for inspiration. Once I had the sketch I wanted, originally on a 8.5"x11" paper, I digitized it, edited it in Photoshop to get it black and white with no gradients, then uploaded it to RubberStamps.net . I was so happy with the results that I had several more stamps made to give to friends. In the second order, someone had tested the stamps and didn't bother to clean it before sending it to me. But RubberStamps.net sent me out replacements stamps at no extra cost.

There are other companies on the web that make rubber stamps. They basically work the same way - you just upload your artwork and place your order. I'm pretty happy with RubberStamps.net - especially the excellent quality of their stamps (I love that they laser engraved the image on the top of the wood block instead of making a clear sticker) but I do want to try other companies. Here are a couple that have caught my eye (remember, I have not tried these companies so use at your own risk)

Tips for Preparing Your Artwork

Your first choice when digitizing should be to use a scanner. If you don't have a scanner, then take a photo in a brightly lit area with no flash
Always take a scan or photo at a high resolution. It's easier to get rid of extra information than to make up information if there is too little.
If you don't have Photoshop, you can use Gimp - it's free
The artwork must be black and white with no gradients. Even if you used black ink on white paper, you might still have gradients especially if you took a photo instead of using a scanner. Every picture is different so I can't tell you exactly how to get rid of the gradients but it will probably be a combination of converting to Grayscale, Levels, and Brightness/Contrast. Just experiment with those settings. It also helps to outline your original drawing with a black pen if you did it in pencil.
Every rubber stamp company is different - be sure to read their requirements for artwork. Keep your first digital copy high rez and use it to make the copy that you will send to each company according to their specs (use a different filename for each one.) That way, you will always have a high rez original to work from and you won't have to redo a lot of work.

Making the Puppet Theater Frame

To make the puppet theater frame, I first made a mockup of my card using regular printer paper. Since the top of the frame is curved, it's harder to gauge whether or not it will completely cover the edges of the paper, so a mockup made things a lot easier. I drew the outline of the frame right on the paper, and laid down a thin foundation layer of polymer clay. On top of the foundation layer, I arranged extruded pieces of clay to form columns and reliefs. I then baked it to create my original frame.

I then used the original frame to create a mold. The mold is used to make more frames at a faster speed, for example the original frame took about an hour to make. Frames made from the mold only took 5 minutes. To make a mold, simply roll out a piece of clay that is larger than your object and press the object into it. Remove the object and bake the mold.

After I made the rest of the frames using the mold, I used a Dremel with a sanding bit to even out the edges and also sanded the back to make the pieces thinner. I then painted them with the gold liquid leaf.

Tips:

When making the original piece, make sure the details are deep, almost exaggerated because when you make a mold you will loose a some detail.
When making something from a mold, powdering the mold with cornstarch first will help it to release the clay easier. I used an old paintbrush to apply the cornstarch.

More pics:

Four different kinds of red paper to suit the personality of the recipient :-)

Closeup of Clara. You can kind of see the Crystal Effects glaze which I only applied in strategic areas to give her a more 3D appearance.

On the top, stack of baked frames. On the left, the original frame and mold. On the tray, frames made from the mold ready to be baked.

Learning to Knit - Inspired by Gothic & Lolita Bible Pattern

2009-01-08T11:00:00.000-08:00

Volume 4 of Gothic & Lolita Bible (US Version) was chock full of super cute stuff for winter and the holiday season. One pattern inspired me to learn how to knit - the Odekake Chocolat-Cat Kitty Muffler. My aunt taught me to crochet when I was little but no one I knew knew how to knit. I tried when I was little to learn from diagrams but either my newbie brain couldn't decipher it or the diagrams were crappy, who knows. So I've always had the belief that "knitting is hard". Nowadays, with the internet and youtube videos, learning to knit is MUCH easier. And turns out it's not hard at all!

This pattern was rated "intermediate" but I'm a beginner and I was able to complete it - here is what you need to know (hint - these are keywords you can search for if you are learning to knit):

How to read a knitting chart (in this case, a Japanese simplified knitting chart)

Japanese needle size conversion

How to knit and purl, the building blocks of knitting stitches

How to combine knit and purl to make do Stockinette Stitch and Rib Stitch

How to cast on, how to cast off

How to increase and decrease

How to join knitted pieces together

Here are a list of videos and sites that helped me put this together:

Reading a Japanese knitting chart
http://www.tata-tatao.to/knit/graphchart/e-index.html#index
Knitting Needle Sizes
http://www.knitting-and.com/wiki/Knitting_Needle_Sizes
Casting On with No Tail
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oKcPvdDcgxY
Stockinette, Rib, and other stitches
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1kjTWHWkJn4
Casting Off / Binding Off
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eEGsf99ep1k
Four ways to do a Join (see the user's videos for other tutorials)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L3rvJx3-9Xs
And this is the best site for hardcore analysis of the mechanics of knitting - things like why certain left-leaning or right-leaning increases and decreases are better than others. This is for people that are very meticulous and want every bump and imperfection out of their knitting.
http://techknitting.blogspot.com/

EDITED 1/15 - I recently found this excellent video on Continental Knitting which is the method of holding the yarn in your left hand instead of your right. It's much faster that way, and also makes more sense to people who are coming from a crochet background
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XuRLFl36tDY

About My Kitty Scarf

I used Bernat Cashmere Natural Blends in Petal. The yarn in the pattern, as far as I can tell, is not readily available in the US. My yarn called for a US Size 8 needle but I used 10 instead. The pattern said to use a Japanese Size 12 which falls between US 9 and 10. My scarf ended up slightly bigger than the pattern but that was fine with me - I used all the same stitch and row counts except for the length of the body of the cat. I made mine shorter since I'm a small person.

:-)

I made my own eyes from polymer clay, acrylic paint, and glossy varnish. I didn't put all the bling the pattern asked for - just a personal preference. Maybe I would if I dressed in loli more. My scarf is far from perfect - I could use help with finishing techniques -the back looks terrible.

Sorry, but I'm not going to post the pattern here since G&LB vol 4 is still in print. If you are interested in making this scarf pick one up at Amazon - they have the best prices.

Florist Bow Tree Toppers, Take 2

2008-12-23T01:42:00.000-08:00

This entry comes a little late but I figure I'd post it anyway. Last year I posted a blog about How to Make Florist Bow Tree Toppers. This year is my first year since I've gotten my own place that I've had anything bigger than a 3-foot tree. I now have a pre-lit, hypoallergenic (read "fake") 6-foot tree. I mentioned in my original post that I didn't have the measurements of the ribbon for a big tree, and now I do. So here it is (see original post for the complete instructions):

6-foot Tree Instruction Mods:

One spool of 30 ft wired ribbon, 6 inches wide, makes one bow with two tails
Measure 6 to 7 ft of ribbon, then start making your loops. I made 16 loops total on mine. You should then have 6 to 7 ft of ribbon left over for the other tail. You can trim the excess and make them even now or after tying the ribbon to your tree,
Instead of an empty toilet paper roll to shape, use an empty paper towel roll
Since the ribbon is so heavy, it doesn't keep it's shape as well as the 3-inch wide variety. After I made the waves I wanted by curling the ribbon under the roll, I also used the open end of the roll to push the waves into the branches. The branches act like barbs to help hold the ribbon's shape. It takes patience!

You can also use 3-inch wide ribbon. I just decided to do something different this year and make only one bow that was really wide because I like things big and gaudy like that. :-) But you can also make 2 3-inch wide ribbon bows with 4 tails just like I did on my smaller tree.

I should also mention that I'm not a ribbon-making pro. There are people who have been doing this for years, and for a living, that say you don't need multiple ribbons to have the same effect. There is a woman on ebay who makes beautiful, gorgeous handmade bows so you can do a search for "bow topper" there if you don't want to make your own. They will run you about 40 bucks though.

As far as my old bows from the 3-foot tree - they didn't go to waste. I used them to decorate wreaths I got on sale last year.

Pics: Difference Engine; CA Academy of Sciences; Computer History Museum

2008-10-16T03:44:00.000-07:00

I have posted three new albums at my gallery from my mini-vacation. They are of the newly renovated California Academy of Sciences, the Computer History Museum, and Babbage's Difference Engine No. 2.

http://www.loopfree.net/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=18349

LifeFlash Mod for the PalmOne LifeDrive

2008-08-30T03:51:00.001-07:00

In 2005, Palm introduced the next evolution to their PDA line, calling it the PalmOne LifeDrive Mobile Manager. It was a bit more than a PDA, touting WiFi and Bluetooth capabilities, a 4GB hard drive, as well as the organization applications that Palm has been known for. To the regular user, the large hard drive was suitable for music and video, making this one of early portable multimedia devices. To the power user, the LifeDrive offers almost the same amount of capabilities as a laptop to do work on the road, and is still small enough to fit in a purse.

However, the LifeDrive was not without it's drawbacks - the main one being that having a physical drive made access times slower. Since it was developed in 2005, that was understandable, and somewhat forgiven, by the LD community. Afterall, it only made sense that Palm's next version would be a slimmer, lighter, faster version with a Compact Flash drive and more disk space, right? To the community's dismay, Palm pulled the plug on the LD line. That left the community to fend for themselves, but also brought out the best in collaborative homebrew solutions. Today I implemented one of those solutions - the LifeFlash mod.

The LifeFlash mod is to basically replace the internal hard drive of the LifeDrive with a Compact Flash memory card. This makes access times faster, it makes the LD lighter, and since there are no moving parts consumes less battery power. The only drawback is that due to the constraints of the operating system, you can only use 4GB of memory regardless if you use a larger card. :/ (UPDATE - this is no longer true! See this thread for details. I have not tried this yet. PowerDrive thread at 1src.com)

Research into this mod can be traced back to 2006 (all references are at the end of this entry.) Because of all the collaboration between LD community members, the process has been simplified. Before, you had to format a blank CF card. But now you could buy a pre-formatted card at UsedPDAParts.com. Even though I didn't have to go through all the hoops that they did, I must give credit where credit is due, and I tip my hat to all the brilliant hacks that helped to figured this out. :-D These steps cover using a pre-formatted card. If you want to format your own card, see the links in the Reference section.

You will need: a LifeDrive, a pre-formatted Compact Flash card, and a T5 torx wrench. You could get a PDA tool kit at UsedPDAParts which has the wrench you need, plus a prying tool for the case. Not pictured here, you will also need a sharp knife.

1. Backup all your data to your PC.

2. Turn off the LD and put the power slider in the Locked position.

3. Pry off the two rubber feet near the top of the LD.

4. Remove the two torx screws which were under the feet. Remove the outer shell (shown)

5. The inner shell is attached by 6 tabs - 2 along the right and left sides and the bottom. Use a credit card or the prying tool to ease open the shell.

6. Remove the two torx screws that are holding down the inner plastic frame. The inner shell is attached to the motherboard by the piezo speaker wire. Use your fingernail to carefully unplug it. (shown)

7. Unplug and remove the battery

8. This is the Point of No Return - you need to cut through the Warning label that will void your warranty. If you have any apprehensions, just remember that your warranty has probably expired anyway. :-) Also, think of the symbolic statement you will be making to Palm for leaving it's customers in the dust.

9. Anyway, carefully cut through the label with the point of the sharp knife.

10. Remove the hard drive (shown)

11. Remove the blue rubber bumpers from the corners of the drive.

12. Plug the CF card into the interface. Put the blue rubber bumpers on the corners of the CF card. The CF card is thinner than the drive, so the bumpers will be loose, but they will be held firmly in place when you put the inner plastic frame back on.

13. Plug the battery back in. (shown)

14. Replace the inner plastic frame - first, plug the piezo speaker back in, then replace the torx screws.

15. Replace the inner shell by snapping it shut along the sides and bottom.

16. Replace the outer shell, torx screws and feet.

17. Set your HotSync Manager to "Synchronize" or "Desktop overwrites handheld" for all items. Sync your LifeDrive.

Troubleshooting:
The only problem I had during syncing was a non-descript error number 1611 and 1609. I noticed that it kept happening on one of the applications it was trying to restore. So I went to my backup directory, usually C:\Program Files\palmOne\\Backup , and moved that application out of the directory. I synced again and it worked fine. I had to install that application seperately later, using it's original installshield. I'm guessing that this happened because of licensing..?

References:

How to disassemble a Palm LifeDrive
Used PDA Parts - online store where you can buy a pre-formatted CF card
Brighthand Forum thread - "Replacement CompactFlash Card Greatly Improves the LifeDrive"

If you decide not to go with a pre-formatted card, in which case you'll have to format a CF card yourself:

How to replace microdrive with compact flash in Palm LifeDrive - great wiki articles that lays it all out
My LifeFlash (formally known as LifeDrive) - a forum post by Furball, with pics
1Src Forum thread - earliest discussion I can find on the web regarding the mod. A good source if you need troubleshooting help
1Src Forum thread - "Windows users guide to editing LD ROM"

Ganna Walska Lotusland

2008-08-18T21:14:00.000-07:00

I just added some photos I took of Ganna Walska Lotusland to my photo gallery. From the Lotusland website:

Lotusland is a unique 37-acre estate and botanic garden situated in the foothills of Montecito to the east of the city of Santa Barbara. The gardens now covering the estate were created by Madame Ganna Walska, who owned the property from 1941 until her death in 1984. Before her death, Madame Walska established the nonprofit Ganna Walska Lotusland Foundation, which now preserves this unrivaled botanical treasure.

Even though Lotusland is one of the smaller botanic gardens I've been to, it's currently my favorite. Since it used to be Madame Walska's home, and is in a residential area, admission is by reservations only, as not to disturb the surrounding neighbors. Because of that, the garden is never packed and has a more intimate feel rather than touristy. When taking photos, you don't have to worry about people being in the shot.

Adding to the intimate feel is Madame Walska's unconventional garden design. She liked to incorporate elements to surprise and delight the visitor, such as paths that lead off the main path that you almost might not see if you are not looking closely. Following those paths seem to bring you into a different world. Or hedges that serve as walls until they open up into a fantastic view. Or sometimes a passage way may lead to a secluded corner - a quiet niche, I like to call them. Her garden design is conducive to exploration and it's fun to just do without a map and try to discover all it's secrets.

One of my favorite areas in Lotusland is the Garden Theater. Made of three tiers of grass and stone, it seats 100 and is decorated with statues called "Grotesques" which used to be in Madame Walska's chateau in Galluis. Several rows of hedges serve as the stage's backdrop and stage entrance, and what even looks to me like a dressing room. The stage, the whimsical expressions of the Grotesques, and the mushrooms growing naturally on the theater steps brings to mind "A Midsummer Night's Dream."

panoramic view of the Garden Theater
Another part of the garden I like is the 25 foot working clock, which forms a small hill of flowers. Instead of numbers are signs from the zodiac. Around the clock is the topiary garden - my favorite forms being the chess pieces. One feels as if they've fallen down the rabbit hole. Or was it through the looking glass??

Aside from the amazing garden design is the variety of botanicals Lotusland has. Unforunately, I don't know much about botany to get into it, but this page on their website has a lot of good information. I'm hoping to learn more about the Lotusland collections, and take more photos of the plants next time.

Here is a slideshow of some of the latest photos. You can also go to my gallery to see more pics, or to see these in higher rez:

Quest for the Perfect Dress Form, Part 1

2008-07-01T13:35:00.000-07:00

Back in January, I hit a plateau as far as learning to sew. Fit was giving me some trouble because I have scoliosis and my back is not symetrical. Rather than waste any more fabric on making clothes that didn't fit properly, I decided to get a dress form. It took me 3 more months before placing an order, but I learned a lot on the way.

My first solution was to try to make one myself out of paper tape. But the glue seeped through my clothes and irritated my skin before it had a chance to dry, so that was out. But it's still a valid method, and I know many people were successful, so if you want to try making one yourself check out this article for four different types you can make at home - http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00002.asp

Next, I searched every auction and online store I could find. I started noticing differences in forms, features, and types. I made a list of everything I would want in a "dream form", which was:

half legs (or a 3/4 form) because I plan to do swimwear and lingerie later on and I don't want to buy a seperate swimwear form. (Swimwear forms have a crotch, unlike a regular dress form.)
must be a Girls size 14 because I have a short waist. I found display forms that came close, but the proportions were kind of weird. (Display forms are a little different from dressmaker forms - their purpose is for displaying clothing, although you can still use them for dressmaking. But their proportions tend to be a little exaggerated, IMO, probably to accentuate the clothing.)
collapsible shoulders (not mandatory but would be nice) This makes dressing the form easier.
arm attachment (not mandatory but would be nice) Most people don't need arms, but I have trouble with sleeves, so I think it might help.

There were very few forms that fit all these criteria, mainly because 14G size forms don't usually come with half legs. Companies like PGM and Wolf have full-body forms, but having a headless body hanging in my home would really freak me out.

At this point, I scratched "half-legs" off the list, and just started looking for a regular dress form. Somewhere along my searches, I came across the Ronis Bros. website. When I wrote to Josh Ronisky about a regular form, he happened to mention that they can make me a form with half legs even if it wasn't listed on their site. I told him all my other criterias, and he was very accomodating.

I now have my "dream form". :-D It arrived in two seperate boxes. The stand is iron and steel, and is very sturdy. The form is paper mache covered in padding and linen. I'm very happy with the quality and workmanship. I would highly recommend their form, but expect a 6 week lead time for custom forms.

You might be wondering about the asymetry in my back. I did not have them take that into account because it would have been difficult to give them measurements - I'd probably have to fly over there and get a custom mold done. Instead, I got the Fabulous Fit Fitting System to pad out those areas (I will be reviewing that in Part 2, after I have a chance to play with it.)

All the parts

Assembled

Side details

Front details

Arm and shoulder connector

DIY: Renaissance Treasure Chest Favor Boxes

2008-06-28T22:27:00.000-07:00

I made these boxes six years ago but didn't have a good digital camera back then. But I've dug them out of storage, so I figure I'd write a how-to. I simply embelished cardboard Treasure Chest Favor Boxes with fabric and trims to give it a regal look. You can choose your own fabric and trims in the color of your choice to match your theme. Some theme ideas are at the end.

You can get the cardboard boxes in packs as low as 25 count at a craft or party supply store. They come in various sizes and colors, from foiled gold or silver, embossed pattern, plain white or cream, and others. (I used 2 3/4" X 2 1/8" X 1 7/8" boxes, in cream with an embossed pattern, for mine.) Choose a box that will best compliment your color scheme.

You will also need the following:

Fabric for the top and sides of boxes. You will need to calculate how much. I found it was easier to plan ahead by buying the boxes first, making the templates (see below), then calculating how many yards of fabric I would need based on the template. Remember when calculating, that you need two side pieces per box. For my boxes, I used a burgundy velveteen, not velvet, as velvet is too plush for this size box, and also too expensive.
Decorative Trim or Lace for the edge of the lid. Also calculate yardage after purchasing the boxes. The best way to do this is to measure all four sides of the lid, then the two curved sides that go over the lid. Add all those numbers together, and then multiply it by the number of boxes that you have. Add a few inches just in case you need extra. Here's a, hopefully, helpful pic:

Beaded Trim for the latch. The latch is actually more decorative than functional. Beaded trim is just a ribbon trim with beads hanging from them (see pic below.) For one box, you will just need to cut the ribbon between each strand of beads. Make sure the strands are not longer than the height of the bottom of the box, otherwise it will drag. The length of trim will depend on how many boxes you have - merely count the number of strands and purchase the length it comes out to.

Craft glue. I like using Aileen's Craft Glue, but you can use whatever you like as long as it adheres to fabric and dries clear. It's not necessary to use a glue gun, and I personally find them to be a pain in the butt, but if that's your preference then by all means - use it.
Scissors and/or fabric shears.
Fabric marker or chalk

Making the Templates

The easiest way I've found to make the templates is to just cut one of the boxes as shown in the following pic:

Your box may not exactly look like this when flattened since different companies have their own way of assembling these. Just adjust these instructions as you see fit to whatever design box you have. You need to cut slightly above the crease so the fabric will not block it. If it does, it makes the lid difficult to open. It's okay if you think you've made it too short because the trim will be covering the edge. You just have to place the trim lower.

How to Assemble

I apologize that I don't have pics for each step, but I have a couple of reference pics after the instructions. You should be able to make it out, but if you need help feel free to leave a comment.

Assemble the box according to the manufacturer's instructions.
On the wrong side of the fabric, trace two side pieces and one top piece using your templates.
Cut the pieces out on the inside of the traced lines (if you cut it on the line or outside the line, it will be too big.)
Glue the side pieces to the box while the lid is open. Glue the top piece to the box, while the lid is closed (if you glue it while the box is open, the fabric may not have enough ease to allow the box to be closed.)
Cut the beaded trim so that you have one strand of beads on a slip of ribbon. Open the lid. Glue the ribbon to the center of the lid so that the bottom edge is flush with the bottom of the fabric. (When doing your first box, you might want to close the lid and make sure the beads don't get caught on the edge of the box, causing them to pop out. If they do, just move the ribbon up a little. Make note of this adjustment for your other boxes.)
Cut the decorative trim for the curved part of the box first. The ends should reach all the way to ends of the fabric. Glue these on.
Cut the decorative trim for the front and back. Note that it does not extend to the ends of the box - it only goes up to the trim on the curved part. Glue these on. (as an alternative, you can do mitered edges, but I would only do that on larger boxes as it is time consuming.)
Cut the decorative trim for the sides. Glue them on.

Reference pics: Front open; Side open, Back and side closed

Streamlining Your Work

I suggest starting off making batches of five boxes at first, so that you can widdle out the bugs with your templates, placements, and process. But no matter how many boxes you do in a batch, you should divide the tasks so the glue has time to dry. It should go something like this:

Cut and glue the fabric to the top and sides. Do this for all boxes in the batch.
Go back to the the first box. Cut and glue the latch (beaded trim) to the box. Do this for all the boxes in the batch.
Go back to the first box. Cut and glue the decorative trim around the edges.
Start a new batch!

Theme Ideas

Sweet Lolita - White box, light pink or blue fabric, lacy poofy trim. Might also want to add lace bows, fabric roses, or strings of faux pearls.

Gothic Lolita - Black box, black velveteen, lacy poofy trim. Might also want to add lace bows, crosses, or strings of faux pearls.

Shabby Chic -White or cream box, striped floral fabric, lace trim. Might also want to add a tiny bouquet of fabric or dried flowers on the top.

Morrocan - Gold box, deep purple or maroon satin, gold trim. Instead of regular gold trim around the bottom of the lid, try beaded trim all the way around. That means you won't have a latch, but you could substitute a metallic or jewelled button for the front-center.

Victorian - Embossed pattern box, subdued peach satin, antique colored lace. Might also want to add a tiny bouquet of fabric or dried flowers on the top. Another option is velveteen in jewel tones and lace.

Rococo - White box, blue satin (not too dark), gold trim. Instead of regular gold trim around the bottom of the lid, try gold tulle, gently twisted to form waves.

Book List

2008-06-08T23:00:00.000-07:00

This post is for tracking the books I've read. Everytime I update it, I bump up the date to the current date.

As of 2009, I will use Goodreads to track my books.

Completed in 2008:

"365 Tao: Daily Meditations" by Deng Ming Dao (daily)
"Soulforge" by Margaret Weis

"The Lady's Guide to Perfect Gentility" by Emily Thornwell

"Gothic & Lolita Bible Volume 1" by Various Authors

"Book of Hours: Illuminations by Simon Marmion" Simon Marmion and James Thorpe

"Brothers in Arms" by Margaret Weis

"Gothic & Lolita Bible Volume 2" by Various Authors

"Seven Taoist Masters: A Folk Novel of China" by Eva Wong
"Gothic & Lolita Bible Volume 3" by Various Authors
"Ganna Walska Lotusland: The Garden and its Creators" by Sharon Crawford
"Nutcracker" by E.T.A. Hoffman
"Gothic & Lolita Bible Volume 4" by Various Authors

Completed in 2007:

"A Wind in the Door" by Madeleine L'Engle
"Anne Frank: The Diary of a Young Girl" by Anne Frank
"Inside the Robot Kingdom: Japan, Mechatronics, and the Coming Robotopia" by Frederik L. Schodt
"The New Sewing Essentials" by the Editors of Creative Publishing International
"Stardust" by Neil Gaiman
"The Golden Compass" by Phillip Pullman
"The Subtle Knife" by Phillip Pullman
"The Amber Spyglass" by Phillip Pullman

Completed in 2006:

"The Neverending Story" by Michael Ende
"Bridge of Birds: A Novel of an Ancient China that Never Was" by Barry Hughart
"Dragonsong" by Anne McCaffrey
"Dragonsinger" by Anne McCaffrey
"Dragondrums" by Anne McCaffrey
"Godel: A Life of Logic" by John L. Casti
"V for Vendetta" by Alan Moore and David Lloyd
"Memoirs of a Geisha" by Arthur Golden
"Coraline" by Neil Gaiman
"Paper Biscuit: Froggs's Lament" by Ronnie Del Carmen
"Paper Biscuit: Half Life" by Ronnie Del Carmen
"Healing Eczema" by Christina Sands
"365 Tao: Daily Meditations" by Deng Ming Dao (daily)

In Progress and Misc:

"Northanger Abbey" by Jane Austen (in progress)

"Catch 22: Dress Forms & Fitting Secrets Revealed" by Massimo Barra & Jill Ralston

Didn't finish - may revisit later:

"The Tibetan Book of Living and Dying" by Sogyal Rinpoche (not in the right frame of mind)
"The Da Vinci Code" by Dan Brown (got bored)
"Society of Mind" by Marvin Minsky (outdated so hard to get into)

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Post changes:

July 11, 2006- Changed subject from "Reading List" to "2006 Book List" because this now includes audio books.

Feb 28, 2007 - Removed "2006" from subject line because this will now contain all years.

Pics: The Huntington Library, Art Gallery, and Botanical Garden

2008-05-25T03:49:00.000-07:00

I have added a new album to my gallery - it's of photos that were taken at the re-opening of the newly renovated Huntington Art Gallery, which also used to be home of Henry Huntington, railroad mogul, and his wife Arabella. Tripods and flash were not allowed, so indoor shots may be fuzzy (but I think I'm getting better at them.) :-)

Mr. Huntington was a collector of rare books, and Mrs. Huntington was a collector of fine art. When they passed away, they transferred their property and collections to a non-profit educational trust. The library is now used for academia research, and the art galleries and botanical garden are open to the public. Please see http://www.huntington.org for more info.

It's impossible to get pics of everything at The Huntington in one day, so this album just covers:

The Huntington Art Gallery (period furnished rooms only)
parts of the botanical garden
select manuscripts from the library
tasty treats at the Rose Garden Tea Room

More pics next time! :-) Go to Album

DIY: DDR Patterns for Crystal T's

2008-05-13T16:10:00.000-07:00

I recently installed a closet organizer, and as I was putting away my clothes I noticed I had a t-shirt project I never finished. I figured since I had gotten back into DDR (Dance Dance Revolution) I should probably finish it. And I'm also sharing the pattern! I actually have two.

For detailed instructions on how to use these patterns, please see my blog How to Make Your Own Custom Rhinestone Pattern. You will only need to follow the instructions past the section marked Apply Crystals to Transfer Film. That blog also has useful links of where to find shirts, crystals, and other materials.

A note for people that use the BeJeweler or similar stone setting tool - you can still use these patterns, but you may have to invert them back to the original orientation. Right now, they are mirror images of what the real arrows should look like because of the method I use for transferring the pattern.

THESE PATTERNS ARE FOR PERSONAL USE ONLY. They may not be used for profit, lest you risk copyright infringement with the makers of the game.

DDR Butterfly

Some of you hardcore players will recognize this series of steps - the Butterfly Turn. Here's what you need:

230 2mm crystals or less. You can use different combinations of colors - for mine, I used light pink Swarovski crystals for the top row, and rose pink nailheads for the other arrows. Swarovski's are sparklier, thus give the illusion of movement, so if I were to do it over again I would use them on the bottom instead, and use nailheads for the top row. It's completely up to you!
Blank T-shirt. See the link above for some places to buy blank t's. American Apparel is very popular, but their sizes tend to run skinny. I like to have some room in my shirts. The v-neck I'm wearing in the photo is by Anvil andit's very comfy.
Silicon Transfer Film. See link above for where to buy.
Standard Iron. Ask your mom - I'm sure she has one. ;-)
The Pattern. Click this link, save the image to your computer, and print it. This is already a mirror-image so you do not have to modify it. I made the dots a little small, so you do not have to put as many crystals as it shows - just make sure the arrows have the same number of crystals on every side.

DDR Arrows

This was my first DDR shirt and it is a simpler design. The crystals were 4mm which seem small, but it's pretty blinding when you are out in the sun. I prefer my new design with the 2mm crystals, but some people like things big, so here's what you'll need:

110 4mm crystals. I used light pink Swarovski crystals to match the shirt but it's completely up to you!
Blank T-shirt. See the link above for some places to buy blank t's. The one I'm wearing is by Anvil and it runs small.
Silicon Transfer Film. See link above for where to buy.
Standard Iron. Ask your mom - I'm sure she has one. ;-)
The Pattern. Click this link, save the image to your computer, and print it. This is already a mirror-image so you do not have to modify it.

"New" Artwork - "Avatar"

2008-03-23T00:58:00.000-07:00

I completed recreating this piece of digital art, which I call "Avatar", and will be uploading it to my lulu store tomorrow. The original, in all it's 300x500 pixel glory, is way to small to be printed. But back in 1996 when I created it, that was a lot of pixels. ;-) I took the liberty of changing it a little. I think I like both versions equally. /shrug. The original was once used as the background of a rave flyer.

"Avatar" was inspired by cyberpunk novels such as Neuormancer and Snow Crash. In fact, the title "Avatar" was directly taken from Snow Crash by Neil Stephenson. Did you know that he was the first to use that term as a pictoral representation of a user on the 'net? However, in the books avatars walk freely in 3D space and are not just profile icons. And did you know that "cyberspace" was coined by William Gibson in Neuromancer? AND, did you know that movies like the Matrix were directly influenced by these books?

But I digress. Oh yes, artistically "Avatar" was influenced by the movie TRON. Simple, vibrant, and clean. Art today has so much going on in it. Sometimes it's nice to look at a barren landscape and see the possibilities.

Reflection on Art; and Lulu Store Opens

2008-03-12T02:51:00.000-07:00

I have always had a knack for art ever since I was a kid, so my teachers have said. I love making art, so it might be a wonder to some why I became a programmer when I grew up. But I was actually a graphic designer for four years before I had absolutely enough of doing other people's art. I would come up with a concept, create a piece, and then have everyone from every department telling me what to change to make it "better". "That line there should be red." Well... if the line was really meant to be red, I would have made it red, wouldn't I. :-) There is a tao to art, and when something is right, it's just right.

I don't do fine art for a living either because my art is such a personal thing. So much thought, heart, and soul goes into every piece that I can't bear to part with it when I'm done. It's almost like an inkblot of where my mind was at the time - how can one give up a piece of themselves like that.

I don't normally talk about things at such a personal level on my blog but I feel I had to mention this in order to explain the brilliance of lulu.com. Lulu was originally a site for people to self-publish their books. You upload a digital copy, and they don't actually print it until someone orders it. They have recently expanded their services to include art prints, calendars, brochures, manuals, and other printed material. I uploaded a book and an art piece as a test, and both were great quality. I verified with customer service that the paper they use is archival quality.

So I've opened a Lulu store. I don't intend to make bank - in fact, I've only set my markup at $5 over the production costs. Lulu makes a commission, so I am actually making only $4 for every sale. But it doesn't really matter - I just love knowing that people out there like my work. I remember my employers had an art show for the employees, and my co-worker's granddaughters loved my pieces. It's kind of funny but out of all the compliments that day, those meant the most. I think it's because it let me know that I hadn't lost my inner child. The art show also made me realize that I wanted to share my art with more people. Lulu let's me do that, while still holding on to the originals.

Right now, I only have my graphite drawings uploaded. I will be adding select photos from my gallery, digital art, and later, books. I have to get most of the photos and digital art print-ready, which takes time.

My Lulu Store

Lulu Homepage

Space-Saving Solution for your Sewing Room: Hide-Away Ironing Board

2008-03-08T17:30:00.000-08:00

For those of you who aren't familiar with sewing a garment, you use an ironing board A LOT. I don't have very much space for a proper sewing room - it's more of a "sewing corner". For ironing, I had a half-sized table-top ironing board which I put on top of my dining table. My dining table is also where I cut patterns and fabric, so I didn't like that it took up space on it. So I decided to look for ironing board alternatives.

What I ended up getting is a ironing board cabinet by Hide-Away. They have a variety of ironing board cabinets, both surface-mounted and recessed, with different wood finishes. You have the option of getting an electrical unit which has a lamp and outlet built into a timer, a sleeve board, or other accessories.

Customer service said it would be here in 3 weeks, but it got here in 1. :-D There was a slight mix-up with the sleeve board and they sent me one with a dowel that was too short. Also, the sleeve board didn't come with installation instructions so I actually didin't know the dowel was short until I got the instructions. When I finally showed them a picture of what was wrong, they sent out a new sleeve board right away. I didn't even have to send the other one back, so that made up for the month that it took to resolve the issue.

I am extremely pleased with the product. The full-size ironing board stores away neatly and compactly, instead of taking up room in a closet. One part of the shelf is shielded so you can store your hot iron right after you are done using it instead of waiting for it to cool. The light and timer are good for saving electricity if you tend to leave your iron on while sewing (like I do), or even if you don't sew, you can be assured that you won't leave the iron on while rushing to get to work in the morning. I would highly recommend this product for anyone who is low on space, or if you just like things neat and tidy.

Now for the pics:

The cabinet, hidden behind the door

Door closed, cabinet closed

Cabinet open

Board down, lamp on

Board swivels for easy access to both sides

Sleeve board dowel is too short (see gap on left side?)

After I sent the photo of the short sleeve board dowel to Hideaway, they were very accomodating and sent a new one right away. I got it about a week later.

Sleeve board, up

Sleeve board attaches to the cabinet with screws, staples, or nails. The wet spot is lubricant because it squeaks

As you lower the sleeve board, the metal stand swings forward

The main board has a railing (?) it travels along when you put it up and down. This shows it as it's being lowered

I put the iron on the board as a visual reference so you can see how big everything is