King Discus

Discus Pro - Discus fish care

noreply@blogger.com (Charlie Allnut) — Thu, 9 Mar 2006 18:57:00 -0800

Discus Pro - Discus fish care

King Discus is always searching for new sites and in our search found this one. It is a fairly new site - about a month old, but is full of good information.

This page contains good information on care of the discus. There are good articles here, and the site is well worth visiting.

Peace,

Charlie~

king discus

Great Lakes Discus, Discus Fish Breeder

noreply@blogger.com (Charlie Allnut) — Thu, 23 Feb 2006 07:59:00 -0800

Great Lakes Discus, Discus Fish Breeder

Being a native of Michigan, and not living too far from Detroit, I found the site of Cary Strong a worthwhile one for readers to visit.

I have had some bad experiences with discus breeders, and plan a trip to Cary's hatchery in the very near future. I admire the fact that Cary will not ship discus during the winter months - it shows his dedication and love for the breed.

Enjoy...

Peace,

Charlie~

discus fish

discus Profile, with tropical fish information

noreply@blogger.com (Charlie Allnut) — Mon, 20 Feb 2006 16:15:00 -0800

discus Profile, with tropical fish information

If you are looking for basic info on Discus, you will find it here. I have written an article along these lines, and will post it to the site in upcoming days.

In the meantime, here is basic stuff like genus, location of habitat, specifications, etc. Good stuff...

Peace,

Charlie~

Books About Discus

noreply@blogger.com (Charlie Allnut) — Thu, 16 Feb 2006 20:04:00 -0800

Books About Discus

It surprises me that Disucs fish are not more popular than they are. There is a plethora of information on them, they are not hard to raise, and are considered the "king of the aquarium."

To see my breeder reach his nad into the water and have an 8" Leopardskin Disucs come and feed from his hand is one of the greatest sights in the world.

Here, on About.com, are a list of books relevant to the subject. It behooves one to check them out if interested even remotely in raising this wonderful fisn.

Peace,

Charlie~

Discus: Heckel Discus, Red Discus, Ponpadour Discus, Pineapple Discus; Symphosodon discus, Green Discus, Brown Discus, Blue Discus, Symphosodon aequif

noreply@blogger.com (Charlie Allnut) — Tue, 14 Feb 2006 07:22:00 -0800

Discus: Heckel Discus, Red Discus, Ponpadour Discus, Pineapple Discus; Symphosodon discus, Green Discus, Brown Discus, Blue Discus, Symphosodon aequifaciata

featured here are varieties - the Heckel being amongst them. discussion on browns, dark blue's and greens. Good pix, some good info.

Enjoy...

C~

Caring for your discus fish

noreply@blogger.com (Charlie Allnut) — Mon, 13 Feb 2006 09:51:00 -0800

Caring for your discus fish

I am not exactly sure if this information is relevant enough, but there are good guidelines here. The webmaster claims that Discus are easy to care for, and that gives me pause...

Discus are NOT easy to care for in the fact that they need much attention. They are not unbearable or hard to raise by any means, but they are high maintenence...

Peace,

Charlie~

Malawi Cichlids, Malawi Species Profiles, African Cichlids, Lake Malawi, Malawi Forum, Tanks, Articles, Books, Videos

noreply@blogger.com (Charlie Allnut) — Sun, 12 Feb 2006 08:27:00 -0800

Malawi Cichlids, Malawi Species Profiles, African Cichlids, Lake Malawi, Malawi Forum, Tanks, Articles, Books, Videos

Here is a site on Malawi cichlids, and on this page is a calculator for the volume of a tank. Makes life a bit easier for the aquarist, and anything that saves time is a good thing...

Peace,

Charlie~

Breeding Discus

noreply@blogger.com (Charlie Allnut) — Sun, 12 Feb 2006 08:08:00 -0800

Breeding Discus
I read a comment on the blog by this fella, commenting on the technique of removing fry from the mouth of a cichlid fish designated as a mouth breeder. I visited his site, and find it worthwhile.
Haven't been to the site in a while. We have moved into our new brick & mortar in Charlotte, MI, and are setting up biz.
The discus are doing well, and pairing off. We hope to have some fry soon!
I need to get with the program and begin to post to this blog more often. Thinkgs have been so darn crazy that I have a hard time keeping up. Hope to change that soon...

Peace,

Charlie~

Cichlid Research Home Page: Tips and Techniques

noreply@blogger.com (Charlie Allnut) — Wed, 14 Dec 2005 17:31:00 -0800

Cichlid Research Home Page: Tips and Techniques

Here is a good article on baby brine shrimp. Baby brines are excellent food for new fry...

Peace,

Charlie~

Cichlid Research Home Page: Tips and Techniques

noreply@blogger.com (Charlie Allnut) — Wed, 14 Dec 2005 17:29:00 -0800

Cichlid Research Home Page: Tips and Techniques

My business partner does this little technique. It is something to see. Here is very good info on this technique.

Peace,

Charlie~

Discus Fish Health

noreply@blogger.com (Charlie Allnut) — Thu, 11 Aug 2005 06:36:00 -0700

Discus fish Health

This only confirms my strong recommendation that the quality of the water in a Discus tank is so very important. Read Han's article for more info!

King Discus

Nutrition for Discus Fish

noreply@blogger.com (Charlie Allnut) — Mon, 1 Aug 2005 14:10:00 -0700

The Discus fish has its habitat in the South American waters of Brazil and Peru. Discus fish are classified as "grazers", and in the wild constantly forage for food. Discus are tall, and have a laterally compressed body. Their swim bladder is located on top of the stomach. They have small stomachs, and short digestive tracts, and with these small stomachs designed to hold small amounts of food, over feeding the Discus can be a problem. Even a minor case of constipation can cause serious problems for the Discus fish.

Diet for the Discus should be varied and contain the nutritional value that they need to survive. In a discussion with our breeder, Nick Lockhart of http://www.perfectiondiscus.blogspot.com, I asked him what he would recommend for the daily diet.

Nick feeds our Discus twice a day. He feeds live white worms generally twice per week. The white worms are cultured on site, and are kept refrigerated in a small apartment sized fridge, and temperature controlled by a device that uses a probe to maintain a temperature of approximately 55 to 65 degrees for best results.

Nick also uses bloodworms, plankton, white worms, Emerald Entree, mysis shrimp, and white mosquito larvae to give a varied diet. Emerald Entree is a good choice for Discus fish. Although originally formulated for marine fish, it has proven to be an excellent diet for freshwater fish. Discus rely on micro-algae and vegetable matter as a main nutrition source, and lettuce or spinach are just no substitute for food optimized for the Discus fish. Emerald Entrée is fortified with omega-3 fatty acids such as EPA and DHA, which are proven to be important for optimal growth and disease prevention.

Discus fish and a lot of African cichlids eat a lot of blue green algae in the wild. Spirulina is a blue green algae, and has a special protein called Phycocyanin not found in another algae or terrestrial plants. Japanese scientists have linked Phycocyanin to improved kidney and liver function. Japanese fish farmers make extensive use of Spirulina, due to its positive effects on their fish. A whole series of articles can be written about Spirulina, and will be addressed further in the future.

Because good hygiene is of the utmost importance in the Discus tank, one should never feed more than the Discus can consume in approximately five minutes. As they are grazers, they tend to eat a bit slowly, so a little more time is needed to allow them to get their fill. I have read that it is good to allow a Discus to "fast" on occasion for up to two days, allowing them to get toxins flushed from the system. Of course, you will not want to drive them to the point of starvation, but it will never harm the Discus to go for a day or two without food. Nick has told me that fish can go up to two weeks without being fed, with no harm to the fish. It is much better to underfeed them a little than to over feed.

If care is taken, the discus will thrive in the aquarium. Much information is available for the potential Discus breeder, and a little common sense thrown in along the way wouldn't hurt either. As Discus are long-lived, the aquarist can have the enjoyment of these friendly fish for ten to twelve years.

Water Chemistry For The Discus Tank

noreply@blogger.com (Charlie Allnut) — Tue, 26 Jul 2005 13:16:00 -0700

Much has been written about the Discus, or Symphysodon aequifasciatus, its Latin name. The Discus has always been given a bad rap for being hard to raise and difficult to keep. Actually, these long-lived fishes are easy to keep as long as certain guidelines are followed.

Here, we discuss the different water parameter that MUST be followed if we are to insure that our Discus friends are kept happy and healthy.

Testing the Waters
Initially, you will need to test for chloramine and chlorine, pH, and alkalinity. If you are a city dweller, a lot of this information can be gotten from the city waterworks, and although a good idea to do so, I would not recommend that you rely exactly on this information. At anywhere from $275 to $425 for a breeding pair, an initial investment for a decent PH/TDS meter is well qualified. Currently at King Discus Hatchery, we use a Hanna Combo PH/TDS meter that measures in ppt (parts per trillion) for the most accurate reading of our tanks.

Determining the levels of pH and alkalinity in your base water is the first step in this process., you can decide how you want to handle the situation. Although Some base water is quite good for the discus perfect with little or no buffering, some water will need extensive conditioning before the first Discus can be introduced into the tank. Once you know the levels of PH and alkalinity, water chemistry tests should be conducted on a regular basis.

Test on a regular basis. When you are comfortable with this process, it is time to and add a few more tests to the battery of tests performed.

These tests will be for nitrite and nitrate, phosphate. In the planted tank, you will need to also test for iron and CO2. Test kits are very easy to use if instructions are followed to the letter. A particular number of drops of the testing reagent must always be accurate, following instructions on the test kit, or test results can be skewed. Test kits and probes available for the aquarium are quite inexpensive and easy to use, and can generally be bought at your local pet supply store, especially if they specialize in aquarium keeping.

Toxins in the Water Supply
Be aware that Chlorine or chloramine are routinely added to the water in many urban areas. Using a simple color test kit to determine the presence and concentration of either is very advisable. Removing these elements of chlorine or chloramine is a vital part of the process to properly condition your water. Conditioning is carefully adjusting the chemistry of the water to raise it to the parameters required for Discus keeping. Aging the water through carbon filtration (mechanical), aging the water, and proper aeration will be of benefit. Be aware, though, that aeration will not remove chloramine from your water. Chlorine can also be removed by adding prepared chlorine removers, but Nick Lockhart, the breeder for King Discus Hatchery, is not fond of using buffering agents. Constant water changes in the Discus tank will only leach these buffers, and then you are unsure of where your water chemistry is at. Nothing will harm the Discus more than wild fluctuations of PH. It is much more advisable to use reverse osmosis or deionization. We use RO, with a special Peat Moss filter to accomplish our parameters. The process of RO with fine tuned filtration of the RO water will remove virtually all toxins, but one must be aware that Discus cannot live in pure RO water, and steps must again be taken to insure proper levels of acidity/PH in the RO water. Chloramine is a combination of chlorine and ammonia, and some water companies need to use this for disinfection of the water supply.

If these simple tests are done on a regular basis, and care is taken to insure that there are no wild PH swings in the Discus tank, your success as a Discus breeder are much higher.

Peace,

Charlie~

Feeding the Discus Fish

noreply@blogger.com (Charlie Allnut) — Mon, 25 Jul 2005 21:02:00 -0700

All about Tropical Fish Discus Answered!

there is a lot of different opinions on how to feed your discus for fast growth. Here is Sl Teoh's take on this...

Charlie~

Filtration Methods For The Discus Tank

noreply@blogger.com (Charlie Allnut) — Thu, 21 Jul 2005 07:30:00 -0700

Good filtration is the prime priority in the discus tank. Basically, there are three types of filtration - mechanical, chemical and biological. Let's start with the basics...

Mechanical filtration removes the uneaten food, waste products and acumulated plant waste from the tank. Different methods will accomplish this - pads, sponges, and floss, to name a few. The objective here is to capture the dirt before it pollutes the tank to high levels. Common filter floss is inexpensive, and highly efficient, making it a good medium for the tank filter. One must keep in mind, however, that the function of the mechanical filter is basically aesthetic.

Filtering using chemical filtration takes place at the molecular level. The most commonly used medium is activated charcoal. Activated charcoal adsorbs a huge amount of pollutants in the tank, and discoloration,antimony, arsenic, chlorine, chloramine,chromium, hydrogen peroxide, potassium permanganate,phosphate plus some of the heavy metals and other toxins in different degrees. (adsorbs: Formation of a thin film on a surface.) It does not, however, remove ammonia, nitrite or nitrate, so don't expect it to do the job of biological or mechanical filtration. If your tap water is overly high in phosphates or nitrates, there is the chance that your fish won't do well until you pretreat the water with activated charcoal or other specific resins. If you live in the city, chances are good that the city can provide you with an analysis of their provided water. If, however, you live in the country, and have your own well, then the water should be sent to a lab for testing.

Activated charcoal can produce crystal-clear water, but the downside of this is that one tends to rely on the activated charcoal to cover up sloppy maintenance. It should be used as a back up only, and you should not be dependent on activated charcoal to keep water safe and clean for the Discus. Frequent water change is the only real insurance you have of keeping your Discus safe and in good health.

I have saved biofiltration for last because it is the most important aspect of a good environment for Discus. Without good biofiltration practices, your Discus will not survive. Mechanical and chemical filtration results can be seen visibly - the tank just looks cleaner. Even though chemical filtration does remove some of the toxic materials from the water, it takes biofiltration to make the water safe for habitation.

Cycling a tank is a practice that reproduces the nitrogen cycle in the aquarium.
In the aquarium, we need beneficial bacteria, which are known as nitrobacters. Stress Zyme is a well known brand of bacteria strain used in aquaria. These "good" bacteria colonize the filter media and every surface of the tank. The most beneficial of these bacteria is Nitrosomonas sp. which consumes the toxic ammonia that is produced by decomposition of fish waste, plant matter, and uneaten food. In the Nitrogen Cycle, the ammonia is reduced to nitrite. The nitrite is then consumed by Nitrobacter sp. and is reduced to nitrate, which is the least toxic end-product of nitrification. The nitrate is then removed from you system by a regular water-change regimen.

Maintaining a healthy bacterial colony in the biological part of your filtration system is quite simple if care is taken to not destroy the colony. When cleaning the media, use only tank water. Never use hot water or fresh tap water to clean the sponges or media, but instead gently rinse and carefully wring out excess water in a pail of tank water. The goal here is to maintain the highest rate of bacteria as possible on the media.

It is possible that your biological filter will crash if the aquarium is left without power for a day. The bacteria are without oxygen for a period of time which will cause them to die, your fish will be gasping for breath, and a foul smell is encountered in the tank. Never simply turn the filter back on! this will flood the aquarium with toxins, and the media must be replaced if a crash occurs.

Following these simple principles will help to insure that your Discus have a happy and safe environment for many years. Again, there is no subistitue for regular water changes, but by following these simple rules, chances of survivial of the Discus are much higher.

Tank Requirements For Discus

noreply@blogger.com (Charlie Allnut) — Wed, 20 Jul 2005 15:54:00 -0700

For Discus fish, there are 2 consideration in tanks - tank depth and volume. Because of their size and swimming habits, a minimum of 18" is needed for tank depth, the deeper the better. Regarding volume, a good rule of thumb is that each adult discus will need 10 gallons of water. Larger tanks will also give more stable water conditions, and taking into account other considerations the minimum size for a discus show tank should be no less than 55 gallons. It is also advisable to use a rectangular tank. Not only are they cheaper, but are more efficient, because they maximize surface area. Surface area is the most important factor in buying a tank. Why? Because it is only at the surface of the tank that gas exchange occurs. (Oxygen in, Carbon dioxide out.) Assuming you have a seventy five gallon show tank, and it's biological filter is working as required, up to twenty young fish 3 inches in size, or 6 or 8 fully adult discus can comfortably inhabit the tank. An outside filter may be added to large tanks to increase basic aeration and biological filtration needs.

Keep in mind that when young discus fish are small,they grow fast and become quite large in a short period of time if fed well and water quality is maintained. If your tank is too small they will not be happy and it will quickly stunt their growth. Juvenile discus should not be kept in overly large tanks. Being a social fish, Discus tend to become very skittish in large tanks. In our hatchery, we place 6 Discus up to 1.5" in a 29-gallon tank. They will be moved tp larger tanks when they get to 2.5", and show possible signs of "pairing off". Always try to buy the largest tank you can afford for discus fish.

If breeding Discus is a consideration later on, tanks can be down sized to twenty gallons per pair. At our hatchery, 29 gallon rectangular glass tanks are utilized for every breeding pair.
A bare bottomed tank with at 2 ½ gallons of water per inch of fish, a couple of sponge filters and a canister filter with activated carbon in it is used to begin the process. This is maintained at 6.6 - 6.8 PH, and the temperature is set at 82 to 84 degrees F. We make 50% water changes weekly, and some breeders will go as high as 95%. Optimal results would be achieved with a 15% water change daily. Because Discus produce slime on their body, and it is shed regularly,it coats the inner surface of the tank and promotes bacterial growth. A safe bet is to wipe down every discus tank every week. There are commercial sponges and brushes available to do this chore.

Because Discus are large fish, they require clean water and proper filtration. The tank must be "cycled" and tested for nitrates/nitrites before placement of Discus in the tank. Our policy is to use fish such as some of the more common cichlids to "cycle" the tank. A good rule of thumb here is to wait at least 4 weeks before attempting to place Discus with the "cycling" fish. If you are active in the aquarist community, a friend might possibly loan you some "cycling fish" to begin your project, and the "cyclers" can be returned to their owner upon completion of the cycle.

Discus prefer soft water, due to the constant rainfall and run-off in their natural habitat. We are more concerned, however, with cleanliness. It is much better to have a high quality of hygiene in the tank than it is having optimal water conditions, though we strive for both. Discus will adapt to most conditions, including PH up to 7.8 and 350-ppm microsiemens of hardness, but cannot survive in constantly changing water conditions or dirty water.

Cichlids for Dummies

noreply@blogger.com (Charlie Allnut) — Tue, 19 Jul 2005 03:16:00 -0700

cichlids for dummies

In a previous article, I reported on the ingenuity of Nick, my partner in our new fish hatchery.

Now, Nick has come up with a great idea -- and a new blog -- for an egg tumbler.

Nick is a good resource on all things Cichlids, and I rely heavily on him for information. Check out his article, and his new blog...

Charlie~

An Experiment in PH Levels (revisited)

noreply@blogger.com (Charlie Allnut) — Mon, 18 Jul 2005 05:09:00 -0700

Because it is imperative that discus fish have optimal water conditions, much has been written about this subject, This is the plan put in place to insure proper PH water levels in our hatchery.

Allnut Enterprises' breeder, Nick Lockhart of Noblesville, Indiana, has many ingenious ideas as to how to accomplish things in the hatchery. We begin our experiment with two matched pairs: two red melons, and two leopardskins. They are lovely, friendly fish, and have been getting acclimated to our tanks and the aquarist since the end of June.

Initially, we begin to prepare for the new arrivals by setting up the tanks in this manner: water was tested for PH and nitrite levels, and a proper ecosystem for active bacteria was begin by populating the tank with cichlids that Nick has been raising prior to the purchase of the discus. When we felt that the water/bacteria levels were correct, we set up the meeting with the breeder, and made the trip to Bloomington, Indiana.

Upon arrival at home base with a travel time of about an hour and a half, we immediately begin to acclimate the pairs to their new home. We were advised by the breeder to let them acclimate to the new tank water by "floating" the bags containing the fish for approximately one hour to equalize the temperatures, and to add a cup of water to the bag from the tank to equalize PH levels.

We did not, however, follow this procedure. We took approximately six hours to acclimate by adding a cup of the tank water to the bag each hour, and keeping a close eye on the discus and PH levels, because they were stressed from the trip. A Hanna PH digital meter was used for testing, which gave us a very accurate reading. As large changes in PH in a short period can shock the discus, we were careful in this approach. Our water at the time matched the water in PH levels from the breeder closely.

Because the two pair were bought for breeding purposes, Nick was not comfortable with the PH level, which at that time was at approximately 7.5, high for optimal breeding conditions of 6.5-6.9. What to do?

We had read that hanging a mesh bag of peat moss would help to lower the PH, but were not happy with the idea of having debris from the Peat in our tanks, which are kept scrupulously clean. We knew there had to be a better way to accomplish this goal.

Because Nick lives in town, and has city water, he uses a Reverse Osmosis filtering system to insure that the water is free of chemicals and suitable for the aquarium. Knowing that Peat Moss will lower the PH in an aquarium system, and having a large bag left over from making culture for Grindal and White Worms, he took a 5 gallon pail, and drilled a series of holes around the perimeter of the bottom of the pail, using a 3/32" drill. He then lined the bottom of the pail with a think layer of regular aquarium filter floss, put a thin layer of gravel on top of the floss to catch debris, and topped that off with a thick layer of Peat Moss, with the finished pail being about two-thirds full.

The outlet hose from the RO system was then allowed to drain into this pail. Setting the pail over the top of the holding tank, the water slowly drained down through this medium into the holding tank.

Initial test of the recycled water showed a drop in PH to below the base of 7.0. We have been adding the water to the discus tanks slowly through water changes so as to not shock the fish, and at our business meeting this weekend, Nick informed me that the PH levels in the discus tanks are now at approximately 6.6, which is the optimal level for breeding discus.

Cost of the project? If you already are using an RO system, and have a holding tank, you will spend a twenty dollar bill getting the Peat Moss and filter floss. Not bad, considering a breeding pair of dicus can run you $425 dollars!

Peace,

Charlie~

Discus Spec Sheet

noreply@blogger.com (Charlie Allnut) — Sat, 16 Jul 2005 09:28:00 -0700

Below is information on Discus, a member of the family Cichlidae. Although certainly not a complete reference guide, it will give those interested some background information on this exotic fish...

Symphysodon aequifasciatus (Discus)
Class: Actinopterygii (ray-finned fishes)
Order: Perciformes (perch-like fish)
Family: Cichlidae
Scientific Name: Symphysodon aequifasciatus

Other Scientific Name(s): Symphysodon aequifasciata, Symphysodon discus aequifasciata, Symphysodon aequifasciatus aequifasciatus, Symphysodon discus tarzoo, Symphysodon aequifasciata axelrodi, Symphysodon aequifasciata haraldi

Common Name: Discus

Range: South America: Brazil, Peru. Found on Amazon and Solimoes rivers of Brazil, from the lower Rio Putumayo-Ica and from Benjamin Constant to Belém. Has been introduced to the Rio Nanay in Peru.

Diet: Carnivorous. Frozen foods preferred, but will accept flake foods. Particularly like red bloodworms, but feeding “live” food is not recommended. Red worms, etc, should only be fed to discus once every other day. Beware of parasites or bacteria in the discus tank from live foods!

Temperament: Timid of strangers. Easily frightened, unless placed in a high traffic area. Can be very friendly to aquarist, oft-times eating out of the hand. If given a place to hide, they will tend to do so.

Sexing: Discus are hard to sex unless breeding. Normally, the male will be larger, and will present with longer fin extensions and a wider forehead.

Breeding: Buy either proven pairs or a group of young fish and allow them to pair themselves. The eggs are laid on a breeding cone. A clay flowerpot turned upside down works well. The fry must be kept with the parents after hatch, as they “feed” off the body slime of the parents. Special care must be taken to insure that fry do not injure the parents when getting larger. Watch for marks on the body of the pair, and if it begins to occur, the fry are ready to be moved to a community tank on their own. If left w/ the pair, serious injury can result.

Special Care: If kept specifically for breeding, a bare-bottomed tank is highly recommended.

Other Comments: To keep Discus well, water conditions are absolutely crucial. A PH of 6.3 to 6.9 is the optimal level for keeping discus.
Water Temperature: Discus like it warm. They come from the Amazon basin, so water temps for these fish should be 80-84 degrees F, although some aquarists set the temperature as high as 90 degrees F.

Peace,

Charlie~

Dispelling the Myth of Keeping Discus Fish in the Home Aquarium

noreply@blogger.com (Charlie Allnut) — Fri, 15 Jul 2005 03:50:00 -0700

discus

Here is a great article by Alesia Benedict. It dscusses the care and keeping of Discus, and is very good news for those aquarists that have shied away from raising Discus because they think they are too hard to keep.

Charlie~

discus

noreply@blogger.com (Charlie Allnut) — Fri, 15 Jul 2005 03:46:00 -0700

discus

Breeding by Effendy Thio

noreply@blogger.com (Charlie Allnut) — Thu, 14 Jul 2005 15:43:00 -0700

perfection discus

On our sister sight, Perfection Discus, run by my partner Nick Lockhart of Noblesville, Indiana, there is posted a great article on breeding Discus.

You might want to check it out...

Charlie~

Getting Rid of Parasites & Bacteria

noreply@blogger.com (Charlie Allnut) — Thu, 14 Jul 2005 15:40:00 -0700

All about Tropical Fish Discus Answered!

Overfeeding seems to cause more problems than under feeding. it is a little known fact that discus can go several days without feed, and that "fasting" them can be more beneficial than giving them too much to eat...

Peace,

Charlie~

History, Varieties Available and Optimum Water Conditions

noreply@blogger.com (Charlie Allnut) — Wed, 13 Jul 2005 06:35:00 -0700

Max's Discus Page

This article is one in a series posted at Max's Discus Page. The articles, written by Max Pickering in 1986, are as relevant today as they were then.

In an ongoing effort to inform the discus breeder of the best content available, I humbly post Max's work here...

Charlie~

Discus Fish

Fish Tank Size

noreply@blogger.com (Charlie Allnut) — Tue, 12 Jul 2005 20:54:00 -0700

Fish Tank Size

If breeding/raising discus, you need to be very considerate of the tank size. discus require a lot of room!

This article will give you more information on tank size.

Charlie~

Discus Fish