King of Craps

The Craps Buy Bet

noreply@blogger.com (Author Mark Cater - (King of Craps)) — Tue, 16 Jun 2009 01:29:00 +0000

Let's talk a bit about the Buy bet.

All aspects of the Buy bet are the same as the Place bet except: 1) A Buy bet pays off at true odds, 2) You have to pay a tax, or a vigorish, to get the true odds, and 3) A Buy bet is positioned on the layout differently.

Everything else about the Buy bet is the same as the Place bet.

The casino is in business to make money, so they're not going to give you true odds for nothing (except, of course, the free true Odds bet that you can add to your Pass Line bet--they're "free" because you don't have to pay a vigorish).

So, how does the casino make money if they pay off a Buy bet at true odds (i.e., true odds means there's no built-in house advantage)? Ready to get screwed again? They tax you! You believe that? A tax! You have to pay for the privilege of getting true odds. This tax is called a "vigorish" or "vig."

John Winn is the father of modern craps. His version of the game allowed gambling halls to offer more player-friendly bets in return for a 5% charge. The worst the gambling halls could do was break even on true odds bets, but they still made money because of the added 5% tax. The added charge brought in so much money that they soon referred to it as giving vigor to their profits; hence, the term "vigorish." The vig today remains at 5%.

Buy bets on the 4 and 10 are always better than Placing the 4 and 10. Buy bets on the 5 and 9 may be better than Placing the 5 and 9, depending on when you pay the vig. However, Place bets on the 6 and 8 are always better than Buying the 6 and 8.

What makes the Buy bet on the 4 and 10 better than a Place bet on the 4 and 10? Suppose you make a $10 Place bet on the 4 where the Place odds are 9:5, which means you win $18 for your $10 bet ($10 divided by 5 = $2, multiplied by 9 = $18). Now, instead of a Place bet, suppose you make a $10 Buy bet and pay a $1 vig for the privilege of getting true odds, which are 2:1. For a $10 Buy bet on the 4, you win $20 but have to pay the $1 vig, which results in a net payoff of $19. Comparing results of the two bets, the winning Place bet nets you $18; whereas, the winning Buy bet nets you $19.

You can make or remove Place bets at any time during a game. You can also make them while the puck is OFF (before a new come-out roll), but typically, dealers prefer that you wait until a point is established and then
make your Place bets. Occasionally, you see a player try to make a Place bet while the puck is OFF by asking, "Can you Place the six for me now, please, so I don't forget after the come-out?" The dealer usually obliges (as he should; after all, you're the customer), but sometimes a dealer in a bad mood will ask the player to wait until a point is established.

Dealers who ask you to wait to make a Place bet until after a point is established do so because they're lazy. Suppose you Place the 6 before the come-out and the dealer moves your chip into the 6 point box. The shooter then rolls a 6 for the point. The dealer moves the ON puck into the 6 point box, and then has to ask, "Sir, what do you want to do with your six?" Since your Pass Line bet covers the 6 (because 6 is now the point), you likely don't want it covered again by your Place bet.

The dealer then has to move your Place 6 to whatever other number you want, or return it to you if you decide to take it down. You think, "Gee, wow, that sure is a lot of extra work for the dealer." You're right, it's no effort at all, but it's amazing how many dealers--even good ones--don't like moving your Place bets around because you couldn't wait until after the point was established to make them.

You can make as many Place bets as you want, up to a maximum of six (i.e., the 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, and 10), including the point. Yes, you can Place the point. For example, suppose you walk up to a table and see an ON puck in the 6 point box (i.e., a game is in progress and the shooter's point is 6).

Suppose you love the number 6 and you want immediate action, but you don't want to make a Put bet so you decide to Place the shooter's point. To do this, place your chips centered directly on the bottom line of the Pass Line (i.e., the line that separates the Pass Line from the apron). As long as you center your chips on that line, the dealer knows it's a Place bet on the shooter's point instead of Put bet in the Pass Line. If you don't want to make your Place bet this way, simply drop your chips in the Come box and tell the dealer, "Place the point, please." The dealer then moves your chips to the point box.

The dealer positions all Place bets (except when you Place the shooter's point yourself), so you have to put your chips on the table and tell the dealer what you want. Then, the dealer puts them in the proper position in the point box for the number you want to Place.

To an untrained eye, players' chips appear to be scattered all over the point boxes. To the contrary, it's well organized. Each player position has a corresponding chip position for each point box. The same is true for Lay bets, Come bets, and Don't Come bets. For all bets in and around the point boxes, players' chip locations correspond to their positions at the table.

To make a Buy bet, drop your chips in the Come box and tell the dealer the number you want to buy. The dealer then moves your chips to the point box in a position that corresponds to your table position (in a manner similar to Place bets) and puts a BUY button on top. The button tells the boxman and camera that you're Buying the number instead of Placing it.

To help the inexperienced player, some dealers automatically Buy the bet instead of Placing it when it's to the player's advantage. For example, suppose the guy next to you makes a $25 Place bet on the 10. Being the observant player that you are, you notice the dealer move the $25 chip into the 10 point box and put a BUY button on it. The guy next to you doesn't have a clue that the dealer potentially made him an extra $4 if the bet wins (i.e., a winning $25 Buy bet nets $49; whereas, a winning $25 Place bet nets only $45).

The Buy bet is best made on the 4 or 10. However, it can also be advantageous for the 5 and 9 if the casino allows paying the vig after a win instead of up front. For example, suppose you make a $50 Place bet on the 5 where the Place odds are 7:5, which means you win $70 for your $50 bet ($50 divided by 5 = $10, multiplied by 7 = $70). Now, instead of a Place bet, suppose you make a $50 Buy bet and pay a $2 vig for the privilege of getting true odds, which are 3:2.

For a $50 Buy bet on the 5, you win $75 ($50 divided by 2 = $25, multiplied by 3 = $75), but you have to pay the $2 vig, which results in a net payoff of $73. Comparing results of the two bets, the winning $50 Place bet nets you $70; whereas, the winning $50 Buy bet nets you $73. If the casino requires an up-front vig, Placing the 5 or 9 is better than Buying them because the house advantage is lower (i.e., 4.00% for Placing the 5 or 9 versus 4.76% for Buying them with an up-front vig).

The Buy bet isn't smart for the 6 and 8. You should always Place the 6 and 8 instead of Buying them. Let's do the math. As we know, Place bets on the 6 or 8 must be in multiples of $6 to get the full Place odds of 7:6; and Buy bets on the 6 or 8 must be in multiples of $5 to get the full true odds.

Therefore, suppose you make a $96 Place bet on the 6 and win, which means you win $112 ($96 divided by 6 = $16, multiplied by 7 = $112). Now, instead of a Place bet, suppose you make a $95 Buy bet and, when you win, pay a $5 vig for the privilege of getting true odds.

For a $95 Buy bet on the 6, you win $114 ($95 divided by 5 = $19, multiplied by 6 = $114), but you have to pay the $5 vig, which results in a net payoff of $109. Comparing results of the two bets, the winning $96 Place bet nets you $112; whereas, the winning $95 Buy bet nets you $109. So, for the 6 and 8, a Place bet is better than a Buy bet. The house advantage for Place bets on the 6 and 8 is lower than Buy bets on the 6 and 8, regardless of whether you pay the vig up front or after a win.

For more valuable information on how to play casino craps, read my FREE articles (click on the "Older Posts" button in the button bar at the bottom of this page). Better yet, order the book to get all the information you need to play craps like a Vegas pro without losing your ass.

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New Videos Teach you How to Play Craps

noreply@blogger.com (Author Mark Cater - (King of Craps)) — Mon, 15 Jun 2009 09:41:00 +0000

Your best bet ---Stick with me!

Follow the links to my video files they are all over the net now on youtube, dailymotion and others!

Simply do a search for kingofcraps or play to win.

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DONT USE PAYPAL THEY ARE AN EVIL BUSINESS!

noreply@blogger.com (Author Mark Cater - (King of Craps)) — Mon, 15 Jun 2009 04:20:00 +0000

DONT USE PAYPAL THEY ARE AN EVIL BUSINESS!

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The Craps Place Bet - (Part 3)

noreply@blogger.com (Author Mark Cater - (King of Craps)) — Sun, 14 Jun 2009 23:22:00 +0000

And we continue the lesson on Place bets.

You can make or remove Place bets at any time during a game. You can also make them while the puck is OFF (before a new come-out roll), but typically, dealers prefer that you wait until a point is established and then
make your Place bets.

Occasionally, you see a player try to make a Place bet while the puck is OFF by asking, "Can you Place the
six for me now, please, so I don't forget after the come-out?"

The dealer usually obliges (as he should; after all, you're the customer), but sometimes a dealer in a bad mood will ask the player to wait until a point is established.

Dealers who ask you to wait to make a Place bet until after a point is established do so because they're lazy. Suppose you Place the 6 before the come-out and the dealer moves your chip into the 6 point box. The shooter then rolls a 6 for the point.

The dealer moves the ON puck into the 6 point box, and then has to ask, "Sir, what do you want to do with your six?" Since your Pass Line bet covers the 6 (because 6 is now the point), you likely don't want it covered again by your Place bet. The dealer then has to move your Place 6 to whatever other number you want, or return it to you if you decide to take it down.

You think, "Gee, wow, that sure is a lot of extra work for the dealer." You're right, it's no effort at all, but it's amazing how many dealers--even good ones--don't like moving your Place bets around because you couldn't wait until after the point was established to make them.

You can make as many Place bets as you want, up to a maximum of six (i.e., the 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, and 10), including the point. Yes, you can Place the point. For example, suppose you walk up to a table and see an ON puck in the 6 point box (i.e., a game is in progress and the shooter's point is 6).

Suppose you love the number 6 and you want immediate action, but you don't want to make a Put bet so you decide to Place the shooter's point. To do this, place your chips centered directly on the bottom line of the Pass Line (i.e., the line that separates the Pass Line from the apron).

As long as you center your chips on that line, the dealer knows it's a Place bet on the shooter's point instead of Put bet in the Pass Line. If you don't want to make your Place bet this way, simply drop your chips in the Come box and tell the dealer, "Place the point, please." The dealer then moves your chips to the point box.

The dealer positions all Place bets (except when you Place the shooter's point yourself), so you have to put your chips on the table and tell the dealer what you want. Then, the dealer puts them in the proper position in the point box for the number you want to Place. To an untrained eye, players' chips appear to be scattered all over the point boxes.

To the contrary, it's well organized. Each player position has a corresponding chip position for each point box. The same is true for Lay bets, Come bets, and Don't Come bets. For all bets in and around the point boxes, players' chip locations correspond to their positions at the table.

For more valuable information on how to play casino craps, read my FREE articles (click on the "Older Posts" button in the button bar at the bottom of this page). Better yet, order the book/booklets to get all the information you need to play craps like a Vegas pro without losing your ass.

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The Craps Place Bet - (Part 2)

noreply@blogger.com (Author Mark Cater - (King of Craps)) — Sun, 14 Jun 2009 23:16:00 +0000

Let's continue our discussion of Place bets...

If you're like me, you'll search out and play a table with a $3 minimum bet instead of the typical $5 or $10 minimum.

Suppose you find a $3 table (a few are still left in the middle of the Vegas Strip). Since the minimum bet is only $3, you can make $3 Place bets, but you don't get the full Place odds.

The payoff odds for a $3 Place bet on the 6 or 8 are 1:1, or even money. For the 5 or 9, it's 4:3 (i.e., your $3 bet wins $4). For the 4 or 10, it's 5:3 (i.e., your $3 bet wins $5).

For a $3 Place bet, you get a little less than full Place odds because the lowest chip denomination at the craps table that casinos allow is generally $1, so they can't pay you a fraction of a dollar (i.e., cents). For example, suppose you make a $3 Place bet on the 5. The full Place odds are 7:5, but the reduced payoff odds for a $3 bet are only 4:3.

Why?

Because it gives the casino another excuse to stick it to the player! The roulette table has chips for 25 cents or 50 cents, so why can't the craps table have chip denominations less than $1? That's right. They screw you again! The full Place odds are 7:5, which means for a $3 Place bet on the 5, we divide $3 by 5 = 60 cents, and then multiply 60 cents by 7 = $4.20. So, for a $3 Place bet on the 5 or 9 with full Place odds of 7:5, we expect to be paid $4.20 when we win. The craps table doesn't have 20-cent chips, so the casino rounds down to $4.

Let's look at a $3 Place bet on the 4 or 10. The full Place odds are 9:5, which means we divide $3 by 5 = 60 cents, and then multiply 60 cents by 9 = $5.40. So, for a $3 Place bet on the 4 or 10 with full Place odds of 9:5, we expect to win $5.40, but the casino rounds down to $5. (Notice how the casino rounds down instead of up.) The player isn't giving up much by making $3 Place bets, so if you have a limited bankroll, these bets are fun and give you more action than just Pass Line bets. The point is, be aware that you get a little less than full Place odds and increase the house advantage when you make $3 Place bets.

Full Place odds aren't as good as true odds. That's how the house maintains its advantage. Remember, the house is in business to make money, not to gamble. Over time, the house wins because when you lose, you pay the true odds; but when you win, the house pays you less than true odds. So, by paying less than their fair share when you win, the house can't help but come out a winner over the long haul. Let's look closer at how the house screws the player.

Let's look at the number 4. The true odds for making a 4 compared to a 7 are 1:2 (i.e., three ways to make a 4 compared to six ways to make a 7, which is 3:6, which reduces down to 1:2). Therefore, since the number 7 is twice as easy to make as a 4, we expect to get paid twice as much as our bet when we win. For example, if we bet $5 on the 4 to hit before the 7, we expect to get $10 when we win (i.e., $5 x 2 = $10). However, for a Place bet on the 4, the payoff odds are only 9:5. This is close to 2:1, but not quite.

Therefore, if we make a $5 Place bet on the 4 and win, the house pays us only $9. When the house loses, they don't pay the true odds; they pay only $9 instead of $10 and keep that extra dollar. You might think, "For my $5 bet, I win $9, so I don't care if they screw me out of that extra $1. It's only a buck." Okay, but think of it this way. That's only one Place bet made by one player during one game.

Imagine keeping that extra dollar when other people at the table make that same bet, multiplied by the number of tables in action, multiplied by the number of hours in a day, multiplied by the number of days in a month, and so on. It's easy to see how the house rakes in the money over the long haul.

For more valuable information on how to play casino craps, read my FREE articles (click on the "Older Posts" link in the button bar at the bottom of this page). Better yet, order the book/booklets to get all the information you need to play craps like a Vegas pro without losing your ass.

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The Craps Place Bet

noreply@blogger.com (Author Mark Cater - (King of Craps)) — Sun, 14 Jun 2009 23:05:00 +0000

The Place bet:

A Place bet is a "standing" bet, meaning the bet stays working, or standing, until it wins or loses, or until you remove it.

A Place bet can be made on any of the point numbers: 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, and 10. Like the Pass Line bet, a Place bet works against the number 7.

After making a Place bet, the only numbers that matter are the Place number and 7; all other numbers are meaningless.

After making a Place bet, each subsequent roll can produce one of three outcomes: 1) a 7 shows and your Place bet loses, 2) the Place number shows and your Place bet wins, or 3) any other number shows and nothing happens to your Place bet (i.e., all others number have no affect on your Place bet).

Place bets don't pay off according to true odds. Instead, the house gets its advantage by paying them off at less than true odds (i.e., they screw the player by not paying their fair share when the player wins).

The Place odds aren't quite as good as true odds. The house screws the player to make money by paying less than true odds. For a winning $5 bet on the 4 or 10, the Place odds pay only $9, but the true odds say we
should be paid $10. For a winning $10 bet on the 5 or 9, the Place odds pay only $14, but the true odds say we should be paid $15. And for a winning $30 bet on the 6 or 8, the Place odds pay only $35, but the true odds say we should be paid $36.

You might think, "How much do I put down to make a Place bet?" As always, the bet amount depends on the odds. The Place odds for the 4 and 10 are 9:5, and the Place odds for the 5 and 9 are 7:5. Therefore, Place bets for the 4, 5, 9, and 10 should be in multiples of $5. For example, a winning $10 Place bet on the 4 gets you $18. A winning $15 Place bet on the 9 gets you $21.

Don't let the math scare you! Since these bets are in multiples of $5, simply divide your bet by 5 and then multiply by the winning odds to determine your winning amount. So, for your $10 Place bet on the 4 (which has Place odds of 9:5), $10 divided by 5 = $2, and $2 x 9 = $18. For your $15 Place bet on the 9 (which has Place odds of 7:5), $15 divided by 5 = $3, and $3 x 7 = $21.

The Place odds for the 6 and 8 are 7:6, which means the bet should be in multiples of $6. For example, a winning $12 Place bet on the 6 gets you $14. A winning $30 Place bet on the 8 gets you $35. Do the math. For your $30 Place bet on the 8 (which has Place odds of 7:6), $30 divided by 6 = $5, and $5 x 7 = $35.

Know the difference between Place odds and true odds. Learn the difference so you don't have to think about it. You don't want to look like a newbie fumbling around with how much to put down for each Place number. (James Bond never asked the dealer, "Um, excuse me, how much is the six?") However, if you have trouble remembering the Place odds the first time you play, don't be afraid to ask the dealer how much to drop. It'll be as easy as pie after 15 minutes at the table.

For more valuable information on how to play casino craps, read my FREE articles (click on the "Older Posts" link in the button bar at the bottom of this page). Better yet, order the book/booklets to get all the information you need to play craps like a Vegas pro without losing your ass.

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The Craps Don't Pass Bet

noreply@blogger.com (Author Mark Cater - (King of Craps)) — Sat, 13 Jun 2009 03:10:00 +0000

The Don't Pass bet: A Don't Pass bet is almost the exact opposite of a Pass Line bet. Like the Pass Line bet, the Don't Pass bet is a Flat bet made prior to the come-out roll. The Don't Pass section on the table is above the Pass Line clearly marked "Don't Pass Bar
12," typically in black letters. The Don't Pass is sometimes called the "back line."

The rules for table minimum and maximum bets are similar to the Pass Line bet. For example, if you see a red placard defining a $5 minimum and a $2,000 maximum, that means your Flat Don't Pass bet has to be at least $5, but can't be more than $2,000.

The Don't Pass bet is a self-service bet, which means you make this bet yourself by physically placing your chip(s) in the Don't Pass section.

For the Don't Pass bet, the come-out roll can produce four possible outcomes (note how they're almost exactly opposite of the Pass Line bet): 1) if a 7 or 11 appears, the Don't Pass bet loses and the game ends; 2) if a 2 or 3 appears, the Don't Pass bet wins and the game ends; 3) if a 12 appears, it's considered a tie and the bet doesn't win or lose, and the game ends; and 4) if a 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, or 10 appears, a point is established and the game continues until either the point number appears again, in which case the Don't Pass bet loses; or a 7 appears, in which case the Don't Pass bet wins. For the Don't Pass bet, you hope the shooter rolls a craps on the come-out; or if a point is established, that she doesn't make her point and, instead, rolls a 7-out (again, note how the Don't Pass is opposite of the Pass Line bet).

The "Bar 12" part of the Don't Pass label indicates that a 12 on the come-out roll is a tie. Some casinos have "Bar 2," which means a 2 on the come-out is a tie. Whether the bar is 12 or 2 doesn't matter because the odds are the same (i.e., there's only one way to make a 12 and only one way to make a 2). However, some casinos like to stick it to its patrons by having a Bar 3. You probably won't see this because it's so rare, but it does exist. Unlike the 12 or 2 that have only one way to make either number, there are two ways to make a 3. This small difference increases the house advantage from its normal 1.4% to about 4.4%. If I see a Bar 3 in a casino, I
immediately turn around, walk out, and go to another casino. The house already has an advantage over the player, so the idea of the casino screwing the player even more really chaps my rear end, so I refuse to give them my business.

Remember, the Don't Pass is basically the opposite of the Pass Line. Therefore, unlike the Flat Pass Line bet, you can remove your Flat Don't Pass bet at any time after a point is established. For the Don't Pass, the come-out roll favors the house but then shifts to the player after a point is established. Therefore, after a point is established, the house actually wants you to remove your Don't Pass bet because you have the advantage.

Unlike the Pass Line, you cannot "put" a Flat Don't Pass bet and you cannot increase your Flat Don't Pass bet after a point is established. ("Put" bets are described in one of my FREE articles on my "Free Articles" page, so click on the "Free Articles" button at the top of this page.)

Again, for the Don't Pass, the come-out roll favors the house but after the come-out roll when a point is established, the Don't Pass favors the player. Therefore, the house won't allow you to wait until a point is established to "put" a Flat Don't Pass bet. If you want to bet the Don't Pass, the house requires you to go through the come-out roll.

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The Craps Flat Bets and Pass Line Bet

noreply@blogger.com (Author Mark Cater - (King of Craps)) — Sat, 13 Jun 2009 02:58:00 +0000

Most bets are similarly marked on the tables of all casinos, so in general, all craps tables look alike, except for cosmetic differences such as color and letter/number style. Some casinos offer a few additional unique bets, such as Hop bets, Big 6 and 8, and "no craps." These bets are always marked on the table so you'll easily know if the casino offers them.

Flat Bets --

The most basic craps bets are the Pass Line and Don't Pass. These bets are common in that each is a "Flat" bet, which means the bet is typically made before a new game starts and before a point is established. Also, the Pass Line and Don't Pass bets can have an Odds bet, which is an additional bet on or against the point number after the point is established. Other Flat bets are the Come and Don't Come, which are made after a point is established. All these bets are defined later, but the point here is simply to define "Flat" bet so you'll know the term when you hear it.

Pass Line Bet --

A Pass Line bet is a Flat bet typically made prior to a come-out roll. If you walk up to the table and see an OFF
puck, you know a new game is about to start and you can get in on the action by making a Pass Line bet. The Pass Line is the long, curved section along the edge of the layout closest to where the players stand. It's clearly labeled as, "PASS LINE," typically in white letters. The Pass Line is sometimes called the "front line." (You'll occasionally hear the stickman's banter, "Winner, winner, front line winner.") The Pass Line on the layout goes around the entire edge of the table where the players stand so any player in any position can easily reach it.

The table minimum and maximum bets are defined by the placards on the inside of the table next to each dealer. For example, if you see a red placard defining a $5 minimum and a $2,000 maximum, that means your Pass Line bet must be at least $5, but can't be more than $2,000. The Flat Pass Line bet is a self-service bet, which means you make this bet yourself by physically placing your chip(s) on the Pass Line. Generally, the only time the dealer makes a Pass Line bet for you (i.e., physically puts the chip(s) on the Pass Line) is when you ask for change and tell the dealer to put some of it on the Pass Line.

For example, suppose you want to make a $5 Pass Line bet but all you have are green $25 chips. After you have the dealer's attention, drop a green chip in the Come area and say, "Five on the line, please." The dealer knows exactly what you want. He changes the $25 chip for five $5 chips and makes the Pass Line bet for you by putting a $5 chip on the Pass Line directly in front of you. Then, he puts the four remaining $5 chips in the
apron in front of you. Make sure you pick up the four remaining chips from the apron and place them in your chip stack so the dealer doesn't think you're making a $25 Pass Line bet instead of only a $5 bet.

For more valuable information on how to play casino craps, read my FREE articles (click on the "Free Articles" button in the older posts link at the bottom of this page). Better yet, order the Play to win: Conservative Black Dice or you may lose your pants.

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The Basic Play of Craps

noreply@blogger.com (Author Mark Cater - (King of Craps)) — Thu, 11 Jun 2009 20:07:00 +0000

Let's look at the basic play of craps.

A new game starts with the "come-out roll" where the stickman typically says, "New shooter, coming out." Once a new game starts, it continues until a "decision" is made. The decision that ends the game is whether
the shooter makes his point or rolls a seven-out (7-out).

Prior to the come-out roll, the dealer places the puck in the OFF position (black side up) on the side of the table, usually near the Don't Come box. The OFF marker - puck indicates that a new game is about to start. The shooter rolls the dice.

If the shooter rolls a 2, 3, 7, 11, or 12 (either of which is called a "natural"), a decision is made immediately and the game ends with that single roll. A 2, 3, or 12 on the come-out roll is called "craps" or "crapping out." The same shooter then continues and starts a new game.

If the number appearing on the come-out roll is any of the remaining possible numbers (i.e., 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, 10), then a point is established (these numbers are called "point" numbers). The dealer places the puck in the ON position (white side up) in the point box corresponding to the point number that the shooter establishes. So, if you walk up to a table and see an OFF puck, you know that a new game is about to start. If you see an ON puck in one of point boxes, a game is already in progress and that number is the point.

If the shooter establishes a point on the come-out roll (i.e., rolls a 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, or 10), the shooter continues rolling until she rolls the point number again or until she rolls a 7, which results in a decision and the game ends. If the shooter ends the game by rolling the point number, that same shooter keeps the dice and starts a new game. If she rolls a 7 (called a "7-out"), she loses the dice and the next shooter in line clockwise around the table starts the next new game.

Remember, a "craps" is when the shooter rolls a 2, 3, or 12 on the come-out roll; and a "7-out" is when the shooter establishes a point and then ends the game by rolling a 7. When a 7-out occurs, don't be one of the many who yell, "Oh, man, he crapped out!" This tells everyone, including the dealers and boxman, that you don't know the game as well as you think. When the dealers learn of your inexperience, they have better luck influencing your bets. So, when a shooter rolls a 7-out, call it a "seven-out," not a "craps."

In terms of a decision that ends the game, once a point is established, the only relevant numbers are the point number and 7. All other numbers are meaningless in terms of a decision to end the game. If the shooter rolls the point number to end the game, she gets to use the same dice to start a new game, or she may choose to select another pair from the stickman's dish.

However, if the shooter makes her point, those dice are usually considered lucky so you'll seldom see a shooter asking for a new pair. If the shooter rolls a 7-out to end the game, the stickman empties all the dice from his dish and uses his stick to push them all to the next shooter. The new shooter selects two, and the stickman pulls the remaining dice back and places them in his dish. A new game, with a new come-out roll, is about to start.

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How to Clear Casino Bonuses with Online Craps

noreply@blogger.com (Author Mark Cater - (King of Craps)) — Thu, 11 Jun 2009 19:53:00 +0000

Clearing Casino Bonuses with Online Craps

The key to clearing an online casino bonus is finding games with a low house edge. The lower the house edge, the less money you can expect to lose per wager, meaning the less your bonus is eaten into by the time you meet the wagering requirement.

Online craps is one game you may consider as the primary game you will use to meet the wagering requirements, for a number of reasons.

Online Craps Has a Low House Edge

The house edge for craps on a typical Pass Line or Come bet is 1.41 percent, meaning you can expect to lose $1.41 for every $100 you wager.

This means working through a $2,000 wagering requirement should only cost you $28.20 on
average, leaving you plenty of money clear from a $100 or even a $50 bonus. However, you can do even better than this.

Taking the free odds on your Pass Line bet reduces the house edge to only 0.6 percent for double odds, or a $12 average loss for $2,000 of betting. Finally, you can play Don't Pass and Lay odds, which drops the house edge below 0.5 percent.

Online Craps Lets You Make a Lot of Bets Fast

Online craps can be a very fast game if you want it to be. If you have ever witnessed a craps game in a
US casino, then you know what I'm talking about. Craps players are always the loudest in the casino. But also the craps games online can provide fast action. You can make Pass Line bets, Odds bets, or Come bets on every roll of the dice, meaning you can get a lot of money on the layout in a very short time. Before you know it, your wagering requirement is met and you can cash out your bonus, play it, or move it to a different game or casino.

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Your Chips

noreply@blogger.com (Author Mark Cater - (King of Craps)) — Thu, 11 Jun 2009 03:47:00 +0000

Before approaching the table, have your buy-in money ready in your pocket. Don’t fiddle with your wallet at the table, showing other players how thick it is with hundred-dollar bills.

When taking a position at the table, a game will likely be in progress. You can buy-in at any time; you don’t have to wait for the current game to end. However, don’t drop your money if the shooter is getting ready to throw.

Wait until the shooter throws, then wait until the dealer finishes paying off all bets for that roll. While the stickman still holds the dice in the center of the table (before he pushes them to the shooter for another roll), ensure you have the dealer’s attention and drop your
buy-in money in front of you in the Come area.

As you drop your money, say in a strong voice so the dealer and boxman can hear you, "Change only, please."

"Change only, please," makes it clear to the crew that you're not making any bets with your cash; you simply want to exchange it for chips. The dealer responds so the boxman can hear, "Cheque change only," then picks up your cash and places it in front of the boxman.

The boxman counts it to verify the amount and turns it facedown so the camera can get a good look at the denominations before pushing it down the money slot. When the boxman gives the okay, the dealer places a stack of chips in front of you. Pick up your chips immediately, unless the shooter is getting ready to throw. Never reach down into the table when the shooter is about to throw. It's considered bad luck if a die hits your hand. If a 7 shows after hitting your hand, the whole table gets mad and blames you for causing a 7-out.

Put your chips in the chip rack directly in front of you. If the dealer gives you chips in different denominations, immediately arrange them in your rack so the higher-denomination chips are in the center (i.e., surrounded on both sides by the lower-denomination chips). This protects your higher-denomination chips from theft. For example, suppose your buy-in is $200.

The dealer typically gives you four green chips ($25 each), 18 red chips ($5 each), and 10 white chips ($1 each). Make sure you protect those green chips by putting them between the red or white ones.

This seems trivial, but there’s a good reason for it. Most people with whom you gamble are fairly honest, but the moment you let your guard down is probably when you'll get hit. Look at the boxman's huge chip stack. Notice that the $1 chips are on the outside ends of the stack, then the $5 chips, then the $25 chips, and so on. The highest-denomination chips are in the center. When in the center and protected, the chips are less vulnerable to theft. Same goes for your chips.

A thief typically sneaks one of your chips when you're leaning over the table or otherwise distracted. For example, as you lean over to roll the dice, the natural tendency is to remain leaning until the dice have stopped. Everyone's attention, even the crew's, is typically on the dice at the opposite end of the table. This is an optimal time for a thief to reach for your stack and sneak a chip.

It's too difficult for a thief to sneak one from the center of your stack, so he usually goes for one on the end. If a thief sees your $1 or $5 chips on the outside of your chip stack, he'll likely find another player with unprotected high-denomination chips, rather than risk being caught for a measly $1 or $5.

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Pre-Setters

noreply@blogger.com (Author Mark Cater - (King of Craps)) — Thu, 11 Jun 2009 03:38:00 +0000

Truthfully, I despise Pre-setters they are selfish bastards who toss the dice to only benefit themselves and no one else at the table Especially the Don`t Pass - Line Bettors.
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It's interesting to note the variety of dice-tossing styles you'll encounter over your craps-playing life. Some are plain and boring, weird and funny, and other are downright irritating. Ever really thought about it? How many ways can you reach down, pick up the dice, and toss them to the other end of the table? If you've played enough craps, you've seen it all.

The casino has strict rules for handling and tossing dice, which are the subject of an upcoming article. I'll mention four of them so you'll understand the basics.

Handle the dice with only one hand. Never bring the dice outside the imaginary plane that extends up from the edge of the table (i.e., always keep the dice inside the table). Don't toss the dice higher the height of the dealers. And smoothly toss the dice so they both hit the back wall (i.e., the wall at the other end of the table). If you follow these simple rules, you'll do just fine.

Let's start with the grip. Most people simply reach down, pick up the dice, and hold them in their palm or between their fingers. Not some people. Some believe their lucky grip will result in a winning number, while others believe they can control the outcome of their tosses so taking a precise grip is the first step in their wacky routines. For example, there's the ice-tong grip, lock grip, 5-finger grip, 2-finger front diagonal grip, flying-V grip, stacked grip, 3-finger front grip, 3-finger front diagonal grip, 2-finger pincer grip, and many more. (Seriously, I'm not making this up!)

And don't forget, before taking one of those grips, they must properly position the dice with the precise alignment and orientation. For example, the 6 on one die must be oriented so the pips (i.e., the dots on a die are called "pips") are parallel to the tabletop and the number must be adjacent to the 3 on the other die, and the pips on the 3 must be oriented so they go diagonally upward to the right.

(Again, I'm not making this stuff up!) After they've achieved perfect alignment with the heavens and stars, they take their grip. But they don't just pick up the dice, they must slowly and gently place their fingers on them and precisely measure the pressure applied to each die using the delicate pressure sensors in their fingertips. Finally, with the exact dice alignment and finger pressure, the shooter launches the dice toward the end of the table contorting their wrist, arm, shoulder, and torso.

I've often wondered how some people don't throw out their shoulders or keep from tearing the tendons that attach the muscles of the forearm to the arm bone at the elbow joint. These are the irritating shooters because they seemingly take forever. Everyone else at the table is anxious for the next roll, but these clowns who think they're dice doctors or dice wizards (or whatever they call themselves) delay the game by taking their weird grips instead of just picking up the dice and tossing them.

Some people gently tap the tabletop before tossing. That's okay as long as it's just a tap. If you knock or bang the dice, the boxman will politely ask you to refrain. If you don't heed his request, the next time he won't be so polite. Personally, I'm a tapper. Also, I like to flash an empty hand just before picking up the dice. As I reach down for them, I quickly turn my palm up, flash open my fingers so they (and the camera) can see my hand is empty, grab the dice, and smoothly toss them.

It's an instantaneous, fluid motion just long enough for the crew to see my empty hand, but quick enough that most players don't notice it and don't realize what I'm doing. (I'm making the dealers' and Surveillance team's jobs easier by showing an empty hand before touching the dice.)

Some people puff on the dice for luck. That's okay, too, as long as you don't use two hands, don't bring the dice outside the imaginary plane, and don't spit on the dice (accidentally or otherwise).

Some people throw the dice low and hard so they bounce all over the place after hitting the back wall. Avoid doing this because it increases the likelihood that a die will fly off the table causing the game to be delayed.

Some people toss them so weakly that they barely hit the back wall. Although you don't want to throw them like a Major League pitcher, you should avoid feeble, pathetic tosses. Smoothly toss them so they bounce off the tabletop and then hit the back wall. If you've never tossed dice, you'll get the hang of it after just a few throws.

So, what's your technique? Whatever it is, be considerate of other players and the dealers. Don't take forever finding your precise grip. Don't throw them so hard they continually fly off the table. Don't spit on them as part of your puffing routine.

Don't aim for the chip stacks at the other end of the table (chips fly everywhere and the dealers have to remember where they all go). Don't hit the mirror on the side of table (casino dice are hard with sharp points and angles, so don't break their mirror). A smooth toss so the dice gently hit the back wall and stay on the table is all you need.

Trusted Online Casinos:

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Who is The King?

noreply@blogger.com (Author Mark Cater - (King of Craps)) — Wed, 10 Jun 2009 09:52:00 +0000

Who is the King of Craps?

Watch the Video below to Find Out!

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The Gambler's Fallacy

noreply@blogger.com (Author Mark Cater - (King of Craps)) — Tue, 09 Jun 2009 18:59:00 +0000

Be smart, play smart, and learn how to play craps the right way.

The "gambler's fallacy" is the false belief that fixed odds increase or decrease depending on recent occurrences. Let's use
the familiar coin-flip example to illustrate this concept.

Assuming we use a fair coin and a fair flip, we expect a 50% chance
that heads will appear and a 50% chance that tails will appear. Those odds are fixed and will never change.

Suppose heads appears five times in a row. If you think tails has a better chance of appearing on the next flip because it hasn't
shown for the last five flips (i.e., you think tails is "due"), then you've fallen for the gambler's fallacy. You must understand
that results of previous flips have no influence on the outcome of future flips.

In craps, the dice have no memory. They don't remember how they landed on the last roll. They don't care if they haven't
shown a 7 in the last 50 rolls or even a million rolls. The odds of any number showing remain constant and are never influenced by what occurred previously.

Have you seen the big tote board by a roulette wheel showing the results of the last 10 or 15 rolls? It not only shows the recent numbers that hit, but also the colors (i.e., red or black). Almost every roulette wheel in every casino on the planet has a tote board. What purpose does that thing serve for either the player or the casino?

It doesn't serve the player any purpose other to sucker him into making a bet that he wouldn't otherwise make. It serves the casino's ultimate purpose of taking advantage of the gambler's fallacy and getting more bets in play. The more bets in play, the more money the casino makes. The casino has one key goal: get you to make as many bets as possible. The casino knows its profits go up as your number of bets goes up. The sole purpose of the tote board is to get you to make a bet that you normally wouldn't make.

Suppose a husband and wife stroll through the casino on their way to dinner with no intention of stopping to gamble. They approach the table-games area and see on a particular roulette wheel's tote board that the color red appeared on the last six rolls. The guy points to the wheel and says, "Look, dear, black is due for that wheel. Let's try it!" The tote board just did its job. It suckered the guy into making a bet that he wouldn't have made had he not known that red appeared six times in a row. Yeah, sure, black is "due" all right. Wrong! The little ball doesn't know it landed on red the last six times. It only knows that both red and black have an equal chance of appearing on the next roll. It doesn't influence itself to land on any particular number or color because of past occurrences.

Suppose your craps system tells you to Lay the 4 for $50 only after the number 4 hits three times in a row. Your system is based on the belief, if the number 4 shows three times in a row, then chances are that a 7 will appear before another 4. Is this a good, smart bet? Is this simple system good or bad?

Yes, it's definitely a good bet, and this system is an acceptable way to play if you don't mind getting bored to death. You think, "Huh? You're either nuts or full of crap because you just finished saying the dice have no memory, and future outcomes aren't influenced by previous ones. Therefore, how can that be a good, smart bet?" Calm down, let me explain.

In this example, you make a bet only after the number 4 has appeared three times in a row. You're a knowledgeable player, a disciplined rock, one who sticks to your system and doesn't allow emotion to cause you to deviate. Making a Lay 4 bet under those specific conditions doesn't make your odds of winning or losing any different than another person making a Lay 4 bet at any other random time. Regardless of when or under what circumstances you make the bet, the odds don't change. The Lay 4 bet with a vig after a win always has a 1.64% house advantage. It doesn't matter whether you make the bet only after the number 4 has appeared three times in a row, or only when the shooter takes a swig of beer, or only when
there's a full moon.

The odds never change. You may be able to reduce or invert them as I have done, but they never change.

However, although the Lay 4 bet with a vig after a win is considered a good bet because of its low house advantage, it's possible to regard it as bad under certain circumstances. Let's look at another example.

Suppose your system doesn't include the Lay 4 bet. Under no circumstances does it tell you to make a Lay 4 bet. Suppose the number 4 appears eight times in a row. The hot babe next to you falling out of her halter top says, "There's no way a four will hit again. We should bet against it. What do you think?" You respond, "No thanks, I'll stick to my system. It's been good to me so far." She wiggles a bit and says, "Oh, come on, I don't want to be the only one hoping for a seven." Her jiggling causes you to lose focus, so you say, "Maybe you're right. Another four can't possibly hit again. Let's go for it!"

This is a situation where a good bet can be a bad thing. The key is that you allowed yourself to risk more money than you had originally planned because of the gambler's fallacy (and partly because you couldn't say no to the bimbo next to you).
Remember, the more bets you make, the more the casino wins. So, adding more bets to your plan--even though they may be considered good because of their low house advantages--can be hazardous to your bankroll.

Let's revisit the example of the couple strolling through the casino. Suppose the couple were in their hotel room before going down to dinner. As the guy brushes his hair, he says to his wife, "Is it okay if we stop at the roulette wheel so I can make a quick five-dollar bet?" His wife responds, "Sure, but we have reservations and we can't be late." They stroll through the casino and approach the roulette wheel. The guy sees that red has appeared six times in a row and, as a result, decides to bet $5 on black (he thinks black is "due").

Under these circumstances, using the tote board to influence his bet is harmless. Regardless of what bet he makes (black, red, even, odd, etc.), the house still has about a 5% advantage. The guy came to the table intending to make a $5 bet, so the results displayed on the tote board weren't the trigger that influenced his decision to make the bet. In this example, although the guy's belief in the gambler's fallacy influenced him to bet on black, the gambler's fallacy didn't trigger him into making the bet (he had already intended to make the bet before leaving his hotel room). The gambler's fallacy does its job only when it influences you to make a bet that you normally wouldn't make.

The moral is, don't let the gambler's fallacy cause you to make bets that you normally wouldn't. If you still believe that previous results influence future results and--here's the important part--if this belief causes you to risk more money than you intended, then you're playing a dangerous game. Play smart. Be a rock. Don't fall for the gambler's fallacy. Don't let it cause you to put more money at risk than you had planned or that you can afford to lose. If you don't want to lose your shirt, you must learn the secret to craps. Don't fall for bogus winning systems or ridiculous dice-setting claims.

Now you know! Remember, be smart, play smart, and learn how to play craps the right way.

Trusted Online Casinos:

http://www.mycasinowindows.com

Win - Loss Limits

noreply@blogger.com (Author Mark Cater - (King of Craps)) — Tue, 09 Jun 2009 18:46:00 +0000

Be smart, play smart, and learn how to play craps the right way.

I've read a lot of my colleagues' books and articles and, as best I can remember, they all say that failing to set win/loss limits is one of the worst things you can do. I disagree--partially.

I agree with setting loss limits. Divide your vacation time into sessions and set firm loss limits for each session. Without them, you could go broke the first day and have to spend the rest of your Vegas vacation watching the fountains and sinking pirate ship 10 times a day. Therefore, disciplined loss limits allow you to manage your money so you don't go broke before it's time to go home.

I disagree that you should also always set win limits ("always" is the key word). Many of my colleagues advocate quitting when your winning streak ends. If you're a local and can return to the table day after day without restriction, then perhaps win limits may serve some purpose. But if you're an occasional gambler who visits Vegas twice a year, I believe that win limits are generally inappropriate.

Suppose you start your four-day vacation by playing your first craps session. Suppose your win/loss goal is to quit the session if you lose your $100 buy-in or if you get $150 ahead. Two minutes after you buy-in, the table goes berserk with a blistering hot roll. The shooter throws for almost an hour without a 7-out. You interrupt your screaming, jumping up and down, hugging, and kissing to count your chips. Holy cow, you're $900 ahead! The shooter finally rolls a 7-out. Now what?

You've won six times your original win goal. Do you quit? If so, how long do you quit? Do you quit altogether and not play the rest of your trip? If you quit, what will you do in the time that you planned to play craps?

That's the dilemma you face if you're only an occasional gambler, which most of us are. Personally, I keep playing. Why? I came to Vegas to play craps. I didn't come to exercise in fancy spas, or go shopping, or sight-see, or eat at fancy restaurants, or look at boring water fountains, or ogle half-naked pirates, or do anything else but gamble. So, why quit when I'm ahead? If I quit after a $900 winning session, then what? Sit at the bar drinking beer watching everyone else have fun at the craps table? No way! Like you, I'm a knowledgeable player who understands and accepts that I'm likely to lose by the time I check out of the hotel, but that's okay with me. It's pointless for me to quit after getting $900 ahead. If money were my motivation, I wouldn't have spent $1,200 for two airplane tickets to Vegas, $700 for a hotel room, $500 (maybe
more) for food, $500 for my wife's massages, and $1,000 (probably more) for my wife's shopping spree. It doesn't add up.

If all I care about is money, I would have saved tons of it by staying home. As long as I'm winning, I'm playing. The only time I stop is after I've lost my buy-in money for a particular session. Then, when it's time to start the next session, I drop another buy-in allotment on the table and start having fun again.

However, win limits may be suitable for non-gamblers who rarely play. Suppose you visit Vegas to attend a convention. You've never gambled, you don't know how to gamble, you think it's a silly waste of money, or it just isn't fun for you. Your friend talks you into going down to the casino to play craps. You don't want to go, but your friend won't take no for an answer, so you reluctantly say, "Okay, but only for an hour." Your friend has the mojo working in high gear, rolling number after number.

You don't have a clue what you're doing as you mirror your friend's bets. All you know is that the dealer keeps giving you green chips and you keep stuffing them in your pocket. The streak finally ends after 20 minutes and you find yourself $300 ahead. You tell your friend, "I'm taking my money and running." Rather than staying for the remainder of the hour that you said you'd play, you reached a comfortable win amount and decided to quit before losing it all. For this type of non gambler, a win limit makes good sense.

If you don't want to lose your shirt, you must learn the secret to craps. Don't fall for bogus winning systems or ridiculous dice-setting claims.

Now you know! Remember, be smart, play smart, and learn how to play craps the right way.

Trusted Online Casinos:

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Winning Systems

noreply@blogger.com (Author Mark Cater - (King of Craps)) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 17:50:00 +0000

Be smart, play smart, and learn how to play craps the right way.

If anyone says or writes that he has a consistently "winning" craps system, he's either lying to swindle you or too stupid to know better. No consistently winning craps system exists, has ever existed, or will ever exist. Understand? None. Don't ever let anyone persuade you otherwise. You may win routinely using my Iron Cross techniques or via the Black dice which inverts the odds (Does not reduce the odds to absolute zero AND cannot be done) But gives you one hell of an advantage!

Most systems spread false hope. They hardly ever change as they go from book to book and article to article. I only pray that your smart enough to buy my materials and better your financial sitcom. Authors often prey on your greed, your hope for an easy score. As with everything else that offers people a quick buck, these shysters take from the stupid and give to themselves. Their "winning" systems focus on consistently beating the house, which I prove in my Book, The Black Dice How you can invert the odds for 30 combinations in your favor, can't be done over time. How many of you are experienced craps players have tried all these systems at some point in your playing experience?

Be honest.

How many of you went to Vegas with high hopes of winning thousands using your new found, sure-fire, "winning" system that cost you $85 on the Internet? And, after playing your wonderful "winning" system, the reality check came in and you were sent home?

Be honest.

You shouldn't play craps expecting to win over time. If you do have a winning session or short-term winning streak, consider yourself lucky for experiencing a distribution variance that favored you at that particular time. If a consistently "winning" system ever did exist, the casinos would have gone belly up years ago. Well, not really. Instead of going belly up, the instant some genius figured out a winning combination of bets (i.e., gained a player advantage), the casinos would have changed the rules to bring the advantage back to them.

All craps systems are simply combinations of bets supplemented with wacky betting schemes. Most sound impressive, scientific, and feasible. Some are simple, some complex. The fact is, no matter what bets you combine and betting patterns you apply, you can't overcome the house advantage. No hedge-bet method (i.e., combination of bet types and bet amounts) will ever change the negative expectation to result in a player advantage. The best you can hope for is to minimize the house advantage, maximize your fun, and hope like heck you hit a "Nirvana hiccup" (explained in my article titled Variance).

You think, "This is depressing! Why do people play this game?" The ignorant and arrogant players truly believe they can either beat the house, they possess some kind of supernatural mojo that affects the dice, or they believe in the silly notion of dice setting. However, the knowledgeable player plays for one basic reason--it's so much fun. The knowledgeable player
knows he's supposed to lose over time. This acknowledgment allows the player to enjoy the game without worrying about winning. If he loses a session, it's paid entertainment. If he wins a session, he knows he'll probably lose it during a future session. The interaction with people, the range of emotion, and the thrill of the hot roll are what bring the knowledgeable player back again and again.

If you don't want to lose your shirt, you must learn the secret to craps. Don't fall for bogus winning systems or ridiculous dice-setting claims.

Now you know! Remember, be smart, play smart, and learn how to play craps the right way.
Trusted Online Casinos:

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Attitude

noreply@blogger.com (Author Mark Cater - (King of Craps)) — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 17:43:00 +0000

Be smart, play smart, and learn how to play craps the right way.

If you gamble, chances are you'll lose. No ifs, ands, or buts. You must understand and accept that fact. How do you think the Vegas casinos paid for all their fancy stuff? Of course! By taking money from all the millions of losers who flock to Vegas each year.

You must treat craps as just another form of entertainment. Instead of paying $200 for a nice dinner and show, you pay $200 for a few hours of fun and excitement at the craps table. If you get lucky and walk away with some of your $200 still in your pocket, then that's icing on the cake. You must never walk up to a craps table expecting to win. You can be positive, have discipline, play smart, and hope to win, but you must not expect to win. No matter how hard you hope, you must always keep in the back of mind that the game is designed for you to lose. Don't take it so seriously that it's no longer fun. If you happen to walk away having won a few bucks, then your vacation was that much sweeter.

I don't believe in all the psycho-babble mumbo-jumbo about how positive expectations can affect the outcome of your play.

None of that mojo is going to make the dice land any differently than how they want to land. Yes, it's important to maintain discipline, play smart, and be positive, but you must remain in reality. Reality is that the game is designed to beat you, no matter how hard you wish or expect to win. Any mind meld that you hope to make with the dice through positive mojo isn't going to help. The reason for maintaining a positive attitude isn't to affect the outcome of your play; it's to help ensure you have fun.

Have discipline, play smart, and most importantly have fun. Otherwise, you'll ruin your vacation by getting mad because you couldn't beat a game that you were never supposed to beat.

If you don't want to lose your shirt, you must learn the secret to craps. Don't fall for bogus winning systems or ridiculous dice-setting claims. Be smart, play smart, and learn how to play craps the right way.

Now you know!

Trusted Online Casinos:

http://www.mycasinowindows.com

Variance

noreply@blogger.com (Author Mark Cater - (King of Craps)) — Sun, 07 Jun 2009 22:29:00 +0000

Be smart, play smart, and learn how to play craps the right way.

If the casino has such an advantage over the player, why on Earth does anyone play the game? My guess is that most people don't have a clue they're playing a losing game. Others are so arrogant they think they can outplay the casino and turn a negative expectation into a positive, even over the long term. Others know they'll lose, but play anyway for fun and excitement. As a knowledgeable player, why should you even bother playing a game you know will beat you?

As a knowledgeable player, is there any hope you can walk away a winner, at least once in a while, even though you're at a statistical disadvantage?

Craps is a game of numbers and statistics, with the house having a built-in advantage. Since craps is based on statistics, let's find a way to use statistics to our advantage. You'll never beat the casino over the long haul, but you can, indeed, beat it in the moments of time when the distribution hiccups and things go your way.

Let's talk about "variance," which is the average squared deviation of each number from the mean of a data set. Huh?

Don't worry; we don't need a Harvard math degree to understand this. It's simply a measure of how spread out the data is. Let's consider the familiar coin-flip example.

Suppose we flip a coin 10,000 times. We expect heads to appear about 5,000 times and tails to appear about 5,000 times. Suppose we bet $1 on heads for each flip. If these are even-money bets, we expect to break even--or close to it after those 10,000 flips. As illustrated in one of my other articles, the house doesn't give us even money when it loses. In our coin-flip example, instead of paying us $1 for each loss, suppose they pay us only $0.96. With this built-in house advantage, our negative expectation is to lose about $200 after 10,000 flips. Here's the math. If we expect about 5,000 heads and about 5,000 tails to appear, then we expect to lose 5000 x $1 = $5000; and win 5000 x $0.96 = $4800. $5000 - $4800 = $200. This is called "negative expectation."

Now, of those 10,000 flips, suppose we focus on only 30 of them, and we continue betting on heads. Of those 30 flips, we might see heads 25 times and tails only 5 times. This data fluctuation shows that, for a limited number of flips over a short period of time, we can get lucky and experience Nirvana where things go our way. I call it a "Nirvana hiccup" in the distribution that causes a relatively high variance. In this example of only 30 flips, we win $24 for the 25 heads (i.e., 25 x $0.96 = $24), and lose $5 for the 5 tails (i.e., 5 x $1 = $5), which gives us a net win of $19. This short term variance temporarily removes the long-term negative expectation, which means there are, indeed, times when we can walk away a
winner.

Although you'll lose in the long-term, there are times when you'll win because of variance. Suppose you take a three-day vacation in Vegas once a year and play four one-hour craps sessions each day (i.e., a total of 12 hours for the trip). You could conceivably get extremely lucky and hit that Nirvana hiccup during each session, and then go home a big winner. In that case, you go home thinking you're a genius, a craps god, invincible, a world-class gambling stud. Yeah, sure, okay. I don't recommend quitting your day job.

Now, suppose you're a Vegas local who plays an hour every day after work. In this case, it's clear that whatever few Nirvana hiccups you experience will be properly adjusted over time such that you'll lose your shirt in the long-term.

Therefore, the infrequent craps player can, indeed, consistently win if she's lucky enough to hit those Nirvana hiccups.

However, the frequent long term player has no chance of coming out a winner at the end of his craps life. Part of the secret to craps is knowing how to be around for those occasional Nirvana hiccups where the dice fall your way.

If you don't want to lose your shirt, you must learn the secret to craps. Don't fall for bogus winning systems or ridiculous dice-setting claims. Distribution variance is the only thing that makes you a short-term winner. Nothing else. No silly dice setting technique. No bogus winning system. It's the distribution variance and nothing else. Got it?

Now you know! Remember, be smart, play smart, and learn how to play craps the right way.

Trusted Online Casinos:

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Craps Pros and Their Winning Systems

noreply@blogger.com (Author Mark Cater - (King of Craps)) — Sun, 07 Jun 2009 22:20:00 +0000

Be smart, play smart, and learn how to play craps the right way!

In my other article, Winning Systems, I address the fact that there's no such thing as a long-term craps "winning system" for the player. It's a mathematical fact that a player cannot gain an advantage over the house using any combination of bets or bet amounts. Period. Yet I see book after book and article after article explaining a wide variety of systems that so-called "craps pros" use to consistently beat the house. It irritates me knowing that the gambling world recognizes some of these
authors as craps "experts." It irritates me when I read something from a well-respected so-called craps expert who, in reality, spreads false hope instead of fact. It irritates me knowing the Industry acknowledges and flaunts these people as skilled and knowledgeable players. It all boils down to money. False hope and dreams of hitting it big sell books and magazines. The reality that the game is designed for the player to lose doesn't sell squat. In other words, in the gaming world, B.S. sells and reality doesn't. One can only conclude that some of these authors either aren't the experts that Industry acknowledges them to be, or they're selling manure for an easy buck.

Search the Internet for craps articles and you'll find tons of them. Some factual, some full of bull. Some by unknown authors, some by well-known Industry leaders who have multi-book titles to their credit and routinely write for magazines and newsletters. Some authors do, indeed, explain game facts honestly and correctly. However, too often, some so-called experts apparently feel no shame in spreading false hope.

For example, I just finished reading a series of articles by a well-known author with several book titles in print and a long list of other writing credits. He talks about using wacky systems to make a profit for almost every bet on the table, even those with high house advantages. The fact is that none of those systems can guarantee the player long-term wins. As explained in my article, Variance, distribution variance is the only thing that allows a player to win in the short-term. Let's examine one of these so-called winning systems that so-called pros use to make money: Place betting the 6 and 8.

The author's scheme is to Place bet both the 6 and 8, then wait until one of them hits and turn them both off (i.e., make them not working) because a 7 is more likely to appear before another 6 or 8. If five rolls go by without hitting a 6 or 8 and without hitting a 7, then turn both bets off because the 7 is due to hit. After a 7 appears, then Place bet the 6 and 8 again.

The author ends his article by offering false hope that this system will be profitable for the player only if the player has discipline to stick to the method without making any other bets.

Your first clue that the author clearly isn't the expert that his credentials imply is the reliance on the "Gambler's Fallacy" (see my article, The Gambler's Fallacy). This system considers a 7 is "due" to hit if it doesn't show in five rolls or if a 6 or 8 shows first. We know this is absurd because the odds of any number appearing on the next roll are the same whether the number hasn't appeared after five rolls or after a million rolls. Since the odds never change, it doesn't matter how many times you turn off your Place bets. You can leave them on constantly, or turn them off and back on every other roll. It doesn't matter, the odds never change. Let's look at the math associated with Place betting the 6 and 8.

Over many rolls, results tend to resemble a perfect distribution. Assuming a perfect distribution over 36 rolls, we expect a 7 to appear six times, a 6 to appear five times, and an 8 to appear five times. Because the odds for any number appearing on the next roll never change, the odds of your Place bets winning and losing are the same whether you leave them on constantly or whether you randomly turn them off and on.

Assume you bet $6 on the 6 and $6 on the 8 for a total of $12. Assuming a perfect distribution, the 6 will appear five times in 36 rolls and you win $35 (5 x $7 = $35). The 8 will appear five times in those 36 rolls and you win $35 (5 x $7 = $35.

Therefore, in a 36-roll perfect distribution, you win $70 by Place betting the 6 and 8 for $6 each. (Note: for a $6 Place bet on the 6 or 8, the Place odds are 7:6, which means you win $7 for your $6 bet.)

However, on six of those 36 rolls, a 7 will appear and you lose $72 ($6 on the 6 and $6 on the 8 = $12; then $12 x 6 = $72).

The negative expectation with this system (i.e., Place betting the 6 and 8 for $6 each) is that you lose an average of $2 for every 36 rolls (i.e., you win $70, but you lose $72).

This is actually a good system, in terms of the player, because of the low house advantages of the Place 6 and 8 bets. However, it's clear that this system cannot guarantee long-term success. It's statistically impossible. In other words, despite the author's claim that this system will prove to be very profitable for you, the statistical fact is that is won't over the long-term.

So, the question you should ask yourself now is: If this system relies on the false notion of the Gambler's Fallacy, and if this system is statistically proven to result in a player loss over the long-term, why is this so-called craps expert feeding me such bull manure by saying it will prove to be very profitable for me? I think I know the answer to that question, and I think you do, too. Could the answer have anything to do with selling books and articles?

Remember, be smart. Play smart. Don't fall for bogus claims of winning systems or wacky dice-setting schemes. Learn how to play craps the right way.

Now you know!

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noreply@blogger.com (Author Mark Cater - (King of Craps)) — Sun, 07 Jun 2009 05:38:00 +0000

Get Over Your Fear

You're in the casino, lights are flashing, electronic machines are chiming, you have a pocketful of money, and your heart races as the excitement builds.

You see the craps tables in the distance. Your pace quickens. The three people at one table are quiet; not much action. The 15 people at the other table are cheering, laughing, clapping, high-fiveing, and
hugging each other. You think, "Wow, that table must be hot."

There's one open spot at the end by the fat guy. You think, "I don’t know if I can squeeze into that spot. I’ll wait for another one." Before you finish your thought, someone dashes into that last open position, squeezing in sideways between the fat guy and the drunk with a cigarette hanging off his lip. You think, "Oh, man, that guy took my spot. That's okay, I’ll get the next one."

You stand in the background, jockeying for position to see the action. You count the number of players on each side of the table, confirming that no more players can squeeze in. The shooter is on fire. She rolls number after number. A drunk yells, "Winner, winner, chicken dinner!" The gorgeous woman on the other side of the drunk is thrilled and hugging everyone at that end of the table. The players' chip racks are filling up with red, green, and black chips. You wait. You watch. No one leaves. You continue watching. Everyone wins tons of money. Except you.

What just happened here? Fear. You're new to the game; you're not sure of what to do; you let fear take control. Not enough room by the fat guy was just an excuse for not taking the only open position at a hot table. The result--you lost out
on winning gobs of money.

It's natural, it happens to everyone. If you've never played craps, you'll probably be scared crapless (pun intended) of walking up to the table, plopping down your money, and making that first bet. It feels worse if you have to do it alone without someone to guide you or give you confidence.

Accept it. You'll be nervous the first time. But don't let it keep you from playing. After about 10 minutes, your fear will be gone and you'll laugh and holler with everyone else. Just take a deep breath, walk up to the table, and get over your fear.

Now you know! Remember, be smart, play smart, and learn how to play craps the right way.

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Mark Cater

Let's Talk About Hedge Bets.

noreply@blogger.com (Author Mark Cater - (King of Craps)) — Sun, 07 Jun 2009 05:30:00 +0000

"Hedging" is making one bet to
"protect" another.

You'll frequently see players make a $5 (or $10) Pass Line bet
and then hedge it with a $1 Any Craps bet. If the shooter rolls anything but a craps on the come-out roll, the Any Craps bet loses (but it's only $1, so it's not too painful).

If the shooter rolls a craps on the come-out, the $5 Pass Line loses,
but the $1 Any Craps wins. The casino odds for Any Craps is 7:1, so the player wins $7. The player believes that the $1 Any Craps bet "protects" the $5 Pass Line bet from losing on the come-out roll.

Another less common hedge bet is using a $1 Hard 6 or 8 to help protect the
player's Don't Pass with Odds. For example, suppose you make a $5 Don't Pass
bet, the point is 8, and you then lay $12 in Odds against the point. You then
make a $2 Hard 8 bet to essentially take away one of the ways you can lose the
Don't Pass. If the shooter makes her point by rolling 8 the Hardway (i.e., 4-4),
your Don't Pass with Odds lose. However, in this example, the shooter made her
point by rolling 8 the Hardway, so your $2 Hard 8 bet wins. Casino odds for the
Hard 8 are 9:1, so you win $18. Therefore, your $17 Don't Pass with Odds bets
lose but you're "protected" because your Hard 8 bet wins $18. The bad news
about this hedge bet is that, if the shooter makes her point the easy way (i.e., 6-2,
2-6, 5-3, or 3-5), then you lose both your Don't Pass and Hard 8 bets.

Hedging sounds fairly smart, right? In the short-term, maybe. In the long-term,
definitely not. If you hit a 20-minute stretch of time where the distribution goes
crazy and every other roll produces a 2, 3, or 12, then maybe a $1 Any Craps is a
good hedge to protect your Pass Line bet. Maybe. If it works and you win a few
Any Craps bets, then the table will think you're a genius. But in the long-term,
you'll lose. The crazy variance in the distribution that shows a 2, 3, or 12 every
other roll won't last long. Therefore, if you consistently hedge your bets, you'll lose
over time. Why?

Remember, for the player, craps is a negative expectation game. Everything on
the table (except the true odds bet) is a negative for the player. No possible
combination of negative-expectation bets exists that yields a positive expectation.
In other words, you can't mix two or more negative-expectation bets into
something that's in your favor. It's important to understand that concept. Using a
bad bet (e.g., Any Craps, Hardway) to hedge a good bet (e.g., Pass Line, Don't
Pass) only makes the good bet worse.

If you can't control the urge to use hedges, then do it carefully. You might think,
"What difference does it make? It's only a buck. A measly buck is worth it to
protect my $5 Pass Line." That kind of thinking will take you straight to the poor
house. Those measly $1 chips quickly add up over a few hours of play. Before
you know it, you've peed away $50 on hedge bets and you're scratching your head
wondering where your money went.

Better yet, order the Play to Win Series get all the
information you need to play craps like a Vegas pro without losing your shirt.

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How To Order

noreply@blogger.com (Author Mark Cater - (King of Craps)) — Fri, 05 Jun 2009 21:58:00 +0000

This is my book The Black Dice: How you can invert the odds with 30 combinations in your favor. (PublishAmerica -2007)

My book is available online now. The book reveals how anyone can use the techniques found in the book to beat casino and online craps routinely.

In early 2008 I released over 5,000 press releases and was nominated as the person who found a way to beat Casino Craps ROUTINELY.

Until now bettors could only use the techniques with a $3,500.00 to $6,500.00 bankroll, and back them when the book was written the UNLAWFUL GAMBLING ACT of 2006 was coming into effect so the book did not compensate for this unforeseeable event.

Now I make available a series of booklets called the Play to Win Series that enable bettors to play and win using conservative techniques found in the black dice staring with only $200.00 !!

Anyone can now enjoy the benefits of winning at casino craps as well as playing U.S. - Friendly Casinos and make amazing profits.

Simply write me with what item number you want and I personally will send you the business address where you can order one or all of these great booklets.

paypal 2checkout and other online payment methods are not accepted only Personal Checks or Money Orders will do as these gems are not sold in bookstores, only by the author himself!

best of all you may RESELL the items in bulk - at your own pleasure - PROVIDED THAT ALL THE CONTENTS REMAIN AS IS.

You may also order in Bulk beginning with 5 order and both these offers are HALF OFF !!

What a Deal!

Order today and see if your not satisfied.

Thank you,

Author Mark Cater

King Of Craps - Bloopers

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Thanks Fopr Visiting

noreply@blogger.com (Author Mark Cater - (King of Craps)) — Fri, 05 Jun 2009 08:45:00 +0000

Hi and Welcome !

This blog will be slowly be undergoing significant changes.

The author`s financial goals have changed and the book: The black dice: how you can beat craps with 30 combinations in yor favor, is not longer a concern with the author event though the book is still for sale at bn.com,amazon and other internet stores.

You may view mark`s newest release Quantum Nanotechnolgy, at amazon.com/kindle

Updates coming soon very busy!

Mark Cater

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