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	<title>www.KitGuitarsForum.com</title>
	<subtitle>Learn to Kit Build a Guitar. Learn to Scratch Build a Guitar. Learn EVERYTHING Guitars Here!</subtitle>
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	<updated>2026-07-20T20:12:09-04:00</updated>

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		<entry>
		<author><name><![CDATA[Stray Feathers]]></name></author>
		<updated>2026-07-20T20:12:09-04:00</updated>

		<published>2026-07-20T20:12:09-04:00</published>
		<id>https://www.kitguitarsforum.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=10358&amp;p=62795#p62795</id>
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		<title type="html"><![CDATA[Blog Your Project • Re: Double Ought Double]]></title>

		
		<content type="html" xml:base="https://www.kitguitarsforum.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=10358&amp;p=62795#p62795"><![CDATA[
I had a similar experience, being very pleasantly surprised at the sound that came from the first one. So here I am making two more. Mine are also a little deeper than a Martin 00 by about i/4", which probably helps. Mine also have the bridge placed lower in the lower bout. People wisely say this is the "sweet spot" but still it is not widely done so who knows? Today's photo shows the bindings installed, so I am now trying to make them look as good as I assumed they would look - still learning! Bruce W.<hr />
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	</entry>
		<entry>
		<author><name><![CDATA[tippie53]]></name></author>
		<updated>2026-07-18T16:19:24-04:00</updated>

		<published>2026-07-18T16:19:24-04:00</published>
		<id>https://www.kitguitarsforum.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=10364&amp;p=62794#p62794</id>
		<link href="https://www.kitguitarsforum.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=10364&amp;p=62794#p62794"/>
		<title type="html"><![CDATA[Guitars • Old style Grained Ivoid is now available]]></title>

		
		<content type="html" xml:base="https://www.kitguitarsforum.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=10364&amp;p=62794#p62794"><![CDATA[
I worked with a supplier to get the old style Grained Ivroid remade to the full length <br>We also have the tail and heel caps.  I will expand this to carry binding for fret board and headstock<br><a href="https://bluescreekguitars.com/product/martin-style-grained-ivroid-240-high-060-thick-63-in-long/" class="postlink">https://bluescreekguitars.com/product/m ... 3-in-long/</a><br><a href="https://bluescreekguitars.com/product/martin-style-grained-ivroid-240-high-060-thick-63-in-long/" class="postlink">https://bluescreekguitars.com/product/m ... 3-in-long/</a><hr />
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	</entry>
		<entry>
		<author><name><![CDATA[JLT]]></name></author>
		<updated>2026-07-18T13:57:49-04:00</updated>

		<published>2026-07-18T13:57:49-04:00</published>
		<id>https://www.kitguitarsforum.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=10362&amp;p=62792#p62792</id>
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		<title type="html"><![CDATA[Special Guitar Tips • Re: sharpening - - - an opinion]]></title>

		
		<content type="html" xml:base="https://www.kitguitarsforum.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=10362&amp;p=62792#p62792"><![CDATA[
I've used both systems: scary-sharp and diamond stone. My preference is for diamond stone for the simple reason that sandpaper requires replenishing from time to time, whereas diamond-stone doesn't.  But it's hard to beat scary-sharp for starting with a minimum of investment and getting excellent results, particularly if you can scrounge the glass (or other remorselessly flat surface).<hr />
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	</entry>
		<entry>
		<author><name><![CDATA[phavriluk]]></name></author>
		<updated>2026-07-18T09:30:42-04:00</updated>

		<published>2026-07-18T09:30:42-04:00</published>
		<id>https://www.kitguitarsforum.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=10362&amp;p=62791#p62791</id>
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		<title type="html"><![CDATA[Special Guitar Tips • Re: sharpening - - - an opinion]]></title>

		
		<content type="html" xml:base="https://www.kitguitarsforum.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=10362&amp;p=62791#p62791"><![CDATA[
I can see how choosing test areas would require some insight....<hr />
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	</entry>
		<entry>
		<author><name><![CDATA[Srick]]></name></author>
		<updated>2026-07-17T21:29:23-04:00</updated>

		<published>2026-07-17T21:29:23-04:00</published>
		<id>https://www.kitguitarsforum.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=10362&amp;p=62790#p62790</id>
		<link href="https://www.kitguitarsforum.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=10362&amp;p=62790#p62790"/>
		<title type="html"><![CDATA[Special Guitar Tips • Re: sharpening - - - an opinion]]></title>

		
		<content type="html" xml:base="https://www.kitguitarsforum.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=10362&amp;p=62790#p62790"><![CDATA[
Peter - I can certainly understand your love of hand sharpening! The “Scary Sharp” system is also sold by Taylor Tools. I am totally sold on the use of abrasive sheets for sharpening. It just makes so much sense. And with today’s technology, it’s pretty easy to purchase a really flat surface, like your quartz tabletop, or a sheet of tempered glass. <br><br>One problem with all of this, however… after a full afternoon, you pretty much run out of hair on your arms to test your blades on. And i am reluctant to move on to the next patch of hair!<hr />
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	</entry>
		<entry>
		<author><name><![CDATA[phavriluk]]></name></author>
		<updated>2026-07-16T20:02:49-04:00</updated>

		<published>2026-07-16T20:02:49-04:00</published>
		<id>https://www.kitguitarsforum.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=10362&amp;p=62789#p62789</id>
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		<title type="html"><![CDATA[Special Guitar Tips • sharpening - - - an opinion]]></title>

		
		<content type="html" xml:base="https://www.kitguitarsforum.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=10362&amp;p=62789#p62789"><![CDATA[
I didn't want to step on the thread that I saw a moment ago....<br><br>I try as best I can to exercise the KISS principle.  Start at the simple end of everything and add complexity as needed.<br><br>So...I read about the 'scary sharp' sharpening process, and I love it.  A few sheets of ascending sandpaper grits and an angle-keeping rolling fixture for the chisels/plane blades and I'm on my way.  I have a scrap piece of quartz countertop to use as a surface, it won't move and won't break and the price was right.  I can shave my arms. <br><br>(I'm allergic to using power tools for precision tasks unless I have a lot of confinement and control of the process.)<hr />
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	</entry>
		<entry>
		<author><name><![CDATA[MaineGeezer]]></name></author>
		<updated>2026-07-16T18:03:19-04:00</updated>

		<published>2026-07-16T18:03:19-04:00</published>
		<id>https://www.kitguitarsforum.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=10359&amp;p=62788#p62788</id>
		<link href="https://www.kitguitarsforum.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=10359&amp;p=62788#p62788"/>
		<title type="html"><![CDATA[Wood and Tonewoods • Re: Bending Holly]]></title>

		
		<content type="html" xml:base="https://www.kitguitarsforum.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=10359&amp;p=62788#p62788"><![CDATA[
My ground-in-dirt problem has been sanding  dust getting  ground into the spruce top. I've found that using a scraper instead of sandpaper produces, I guess, larger-sized "dirt" that  doesn't ground into light surfaces as easily.<hr />
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	</entry>
		<entry>
		<author><name><![CDATA[MaineGeezer]]></name></author>
		<updated>2026-07-16T17:52:16-04:00</updated>

		<published>2026-07-16T17:52:16-04:00</published>
		<id>https://www.kitguitarsforum.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=10358&amp;p=62787#p62787</id>
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		<title type="html"><![CDATA[Blog Your Project • Re: Double Ought Double]]></title>

		
		<content type="html" xml:base="https://www.kitguitarsforum.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=10358&amp;p=62787#p62787"><![CDATA[
My one attempt at a 00 size has a sound that seems all out of proportion to its size. I don't know if it was dumb luck or if the 00 body is particularly suited to producing a great sound. Add in the fact that I made the body much deeper than a normal 00, and the top bracing is my own demented version of falcate bracing, and it's clear than there is no point in comparing it to anything. :-)<br>I'll be very interested to hear how your two turn out.<hr />
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	</entry>
		<entry>
		<author><name><![CDATA[MaineGeezer]]></name></author>
		<updated>2026-07-16T17:41:00-04:00</updated>

		<published>2026-07-16T17:41:00-04:00</published>
		<id>https://www.kitguitarsforum.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=10361&amp;p=62786#p62786</id>
		<link href="https://www.kitguitarsforum.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=10361&amp;p=62786#p62786"/>
		<title type="html"><![CDATA[Special Guitar Tips • Re: Sharpening - it’s always about the Sharpening]]></title>

		
		<content type="html" xml:base="https://www.kitguitarsforum.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=10361&amp;p=62786#p62786"><![CDATA[
Using  abrasive paper as the abrasive when sharpening was a reveoation for me when I tried it. I've been using the  3M gold Stickit stuff that comes in rolls. The process I worked is more cumbersome than what you describe, but the  thing that makes it great as fas as I'm concerned is that it's FAST compared to using a stone, especially in the early stages when one may be wanting to take off "a lot" to get rid of a chip in the cutting edge. Anyway, if the 3M Cubitron abrasive paper is notably faster than the #M Stickit, it must really be something.  I'll give it a try. Thanks for the review of taytools.com<hr />
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	</entry>
		<entry>
		<author><name><![CDATA[Srick]]></name></author>
		<updated>2026-07-12T10:11:45-04:00</updated>

		<published>2026-07-12T10:11:45-04:00</published>
		<id>https://www.kitguitarsforum.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=10361&amp;p=62785#p62785</id>
		<link href="https://www.kitguitarsforum.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=10361&amp;p=62785#p62785"/>
		<title type="html"><![CDATA[Special Guitar Tips • Sharpening - it’s always about the Sharpening]]></title>

		
		<content type="html" xml:base="https://www.kitguitarsforum.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=10361&amp;p=62785#p62785"><![CDATA[
I've been at the sharpening game for years. I adore razor sharp tools - I hate the process of getting there. And like so many of us, I have a collection of oil stones, water stones, diamond hones and special wheels all gathering dust. Sharpening has always been a pain and I have screwed up more than my share of edges when I got sloppy. <br><br>But I may have finally found my holy grail.<br><br>Taylor Tools (taytools.com) has two systems that you should check out: a drill press system and a glass plate flattening system. <span style="text-decoration:underline">The secret is self - adhesive 3M Cubitron abrasive disks</span> which are specifically made for sharpening steel. <br><br>The drill press system has two acrylic disks with aluminum hubs that get inserted into a drill press. One is for gross sharpening and has a stick on disk of a coarse grit (ie 120) on one side and 220 on the other. The second disk has 220 on one side and a leather strop on the other. Then, I use 1000 grit Aluminum oxide adhered to a glass plate for the final hone (plus one more strop).<br><br>The disk system alone gets your blade pretty sharp. Adding in the honing step gets you to a “paper slicing” sharp edge in a few seconds.<br><br>Even my dullest tools have taken only minutes to sharpen. There’s no risk of burning the tool like an abrasive wheel, and by using the wooden jig (which you can purchase or build) it’s very easy to get a consistent angle on your tool.<br><br>This is the fastest and easiest sharpening system that I have ever used.<br><br>—————————-<br><br>P.S. - the concept of using an abrasive paper\medium for sharpening is not new by any means, but this Cubitron is amazing stuff (as is the technology behind it - do a search!). So you don’t need the Taytool system to make it work, but it is very convenient and reasonably priced.<hr />
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	</entry>
		<entry>
		<author><name><![CDATA[mike243]]></name></author>
		<updated>2026-07-12T01:55:32-04:00</updated>

		<published>2026-07-12T01:55:32-04:00</published>
		<id>https://www.kitguitarsforum.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=10358&amp;p=62784#p62784</id>
		<link href="https://www.kitguitarsforum.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=10358&amp;p=62784#p62784"/>
		<title type="html"><![CDATA[Blog Your Project • Re: Double Ought Double]]></title>

		
		<content type="html" xml:base="https://www.kitguitarsforum.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=10358&amp;p=62784#p62784"><![CDATA[
Both are beautiful, but that Yellow Cedar looks amazing.<hr />
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	</entry>
		<entry>
		<author><name><![CDATA[Kevin Sjostrand]]></name></author>
		<updated>2026-07-11T15:27:27-04:00</updated>

		<published>2026-07-11T15:27:27-04:00</published>
		<id>https://www.kitguitarsforum.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=10360&amp;p=62783#p62783</id>
		<link href="https://www.kitguitarsforum.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=10360&amp;p=62783#p62783"/>
		<title type="html"><![CDATA[Guitar Building Procedures • Re: EVO fretwire]]></title>

		
		<content type="html" xml:base="https://www.kitguitarsforum.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=10360&amp;p=62783#p62783"><![CDATA[
Stewmac sells gold wire. It isn't the same as the EVO but I've been using it and it seems fine.<hr />
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	</entry>
		<entry>
		<author><name><![CDATA[Stray Feathers]]></name></author>
		<updated>2026-07-10T23:51:26-04:00</updated>

		<published>2026-07-10T23:51:26-04:00</published>
		<id>https://www.kitguitarsforum.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=10360&amp;p=62782#p62782</id>
		<link href="https://www.kitguitarsforum.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=10360&amp;p=62782#p62782"/>
		<title type="html"><![CDATA[Guitar Building Procedures • EVO fretwire]]></title>

		
		<content type="html" xml:base="https://www.kitguitarsforum.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=10360&amp;p=62782#p62782"><![CDATA[
When I started building, I chose to use EVO fretwire, because it was supposedly harder than nickel silver, but not as hard to work with as stainless. And I like the gold colour. Now, it is no longer available, because  apparently the company producing the alloy stopped making it. Has anyone found an alternative? Any rumours from the industry? Anyone tried Hosco phosphor bronze fretwire (I am trying it on a guitar that will need fretting soon)? Bruce W.<hr />
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	</entry>
		<entry>
		<author><name><![CDATA[glasalle1]]></name></author>
		<updated>2026-07-10T13:48:02-04:00</updated>

		<published>2026-07-10T13:48:02-04:00</published>
		<id>https://www.kitguitarsforum.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=10359&amp;p=62781#p62781</id>
		<link href="https://www.kitguitarsforum.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=10359&amp;p=62781#p62781"/>
		<title type="html"><![CDATA[Wood and Tonewoods • Re: Bending Holly]]></title>

		
		<content type="html" xml:base="https://www.kitguitarsforum.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=10359&amp;p=62781#p62781"><![CDATA[
I have used Holly binding as well.  I didn't have any issues bending it, but combined with Rosewood, I had a HARD time keeping it clean from Rosewood dust.  I had to carefully put shellac on the holly to protect it whenever i was sanding the rosewood.  I told myself never again lol.<br><br>Glenn<hr />
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	</entry>
		<entry>
		<author><name><![CDATA[Stray Feathers]]></name></author>
		<updated>2026-07-08T14:22:25-04:00</updated>

		<published>2026-07-08T14:22:25-04:00</published>
		<id>https://www.kitguitarsforum.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=10359&amp;p=62780#p62780</id>
		<link href="https://www.kitguitarsforum.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=10359&amp;p=62780#p62780"/>
		<title type="html"><![CDATA[Wood and Tonewoods • Bending Holly]]></title>

		
		<content type="html" xml:base="https://www.kitguitarsforum.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=10359&amp;p=62780#p62780"><![CDATA[
In another thread I'm making two 00 guitars with different woods, and I had a learning moment recently. In a Fox style bender I bent rosewood sides together with Holly bindings for one guitar, and bent Black Walnut sides with rosewood  bindings for the other. The rosewood and walnut sides, and rosewood bindings, all bent well to fit the mould. But the Holly bindings did not bend as well. In the photo the Holly binding is at the top, beside a rosewood binding. I don't know if Holly needs more heat or moisture or what. So I will have to bend the Holly a little more on a pipe (which I find challenging). The other challenge is to remember what I learned here . . . . ! Bruce W.<hr />
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