Knitting at Large

A new way to make wider sleeves

noreply@blogger.com (Julie Matthews) — Sun, 28 Apr 2013 14:56:00 +0000

I picked up "The Best of Threads - Fitting" at Joann Fabrics yesterday to learn more about customizing sewing patterns. I've got my brain wrapped around custom-fitted knitting, but knitted fabric is so forgiving with it's two-way stretch. It's not the same with woven fabrics.

For example, if your sleeve is a bit tight, knitting will accommodate the additional girth (within reason, of course). But if you're making a woven cotton shirt and the sleeves are too narrow, you soon risk becoming the Incredible Hulk.

While perusing the new Fitting magazine, I discovered a fabulous tip about making larger sleeves. I often have to upsize sleeves to accommodate my large upper arms. In the past, I have added the additional inches to the sleeve's side seams and and have tapered up from the wrist.

Then I've made similar mods to the sweaters underarms, both increasing the underarm side seams and making the sleeve cap a bit longer.

But with this new technique, it's possible to enlarge a sleeve without making any changes to the armscye or the underarm bindoffs. And it puts the fabric right where you need it, around the widest part of your arm rather than in your armpit.

With this method, assuming you're knitting the sleeve from the bottom up, cast on for the sleeve as prescribed. When you are perhaps three inches before the elbow, figure out the middle stitch on the sleeve and then place markers one stitch to the right of the center stitch and then one stitch to the left, as shown here.

Then on the next right side row, add increases inside the markers.

Before long,you're creating a wedge of fabric that runs up the center of the outside sleeve.

Carry on this way until your reach the underarms bindoffs and then begin decreasing in the same way but at a faster pace (meaning making the decreases at shorter intervals) to remove the extra stitches. By the middle of the sleeve cap, you should be back to the number of stitches specified in the pattern. Throughout this process, you can otherwise follow the pattern exactly as knitted, except for including this additional wedge of fabric.

To look at it another way, assume you folded the sleeve lengthwise. This image shows the original sleeve as designed; the widening of the sleeve at the seams; and the widening of the sleeves by adding a wedge of fabric on the outer sleeve.

This technique will work best on a stockinette or garter stitch sleeves; on highly cabled or colorwork sleeves, the increases/decreases would likely break the cables or colorwork.

I haven't tried this technique yet but I will on the next sweater I make. I'll blog about it then so stayed tuned.

Mindy KAL begins

noreply@blogger.com (Julie Matthews) — Mon, 22 Apr 2013 14:38:00 +0000

Interested in making the magnificent Mindy cardigan by Julia Farwell-Clay? Then come join us with a new KAL that began over the weekend. This worsted-weight cardi comes in sizes up to 61 inches and in two lengths, regular and long (but you can of course make the sweater whatever length you want).

Here's how Julia's describes her Mindy design:

I love graphic cables and snuggly collars. For the Mindy cardigan, I combined my two favorite sweater elements for a cozy sweater to wear for the first fresh air stroll in early spring. The slightly a-line cardigan with wide cable panels that act like ribbing and pull in a little. This makes Mindy a very forgiving sweater as far as fit goes. The sample shown is worn with several inches of positive ease...

The sweater is knit using traditional construction, worked as pieces and seamed although knitters are free to knit the front and back seamlessly. The set-in sleeves are worked in the round to the underarm bind-off. The collar is knit using short rows to incorporate front placket stitches, and finished with an i-cord edging. Collar can be worn up for a Mandarin effect as seen in the detail photographs, or folded over as shown.

Julia is knitting right along with us using Patina, another colorway of the gorgeous Lorna's Laces Haymarket yarn. I envy her ability to wear such a warm and wonderful color. Oh, how I long to make a yellow sweater!

Lots of participants are using Berroco Vintage, including Karen, who along with her beauteous black and white cat is knitting her sleeve in the Breezeway colorway.

Yvonne has knitted my favorite swatch - isn't this amazing? She lives in Germany and is using Lana Grossa Nord, a now-discontinued yarn I haven't been able to find in the US. I'd be making my Mindy in this stunning yarn if I could find it.

Instead, I'm making my Mindy in Knit Picks Capra in Celestial blue. I was going to use this yarn to make the Mork, the sweater companion to Mindy, but decided the Mork would be too clingy on me. Capra offers terrific stitch definition so the cables pop. And it's soft soft soft which still having some body, too.

If you'd like to participate, it's not too late. The examples you see here are from the early birds - the slow pokes are still getting their yarn and knitting their swatches. We'd love to have you along for the ride - come join us!

I'm going to be a little slow-going myself because I'm working on a cardigan for my youngest sister who is expecting. I love the cables and color of the Knit Picks Bare Worsted. My goal is to create a classic Aran sweater, complete with small woven leather buttons, as an heirloom that can be passed down from generation to generation, worn by both boys and girls. Thus far, it's turning out exactly as I hoped. The pattern, Aran Jacket, is from Debbie Bliss' New Baby Knits. The book is out of print now, but I easily found a used copy. Thirty fabulous baby sweaters, all designed by Debbie Bliss. Can't beat it.

A conversation with Amy Herzog

noreply@blogger.com (Julie Matthews) — Sat, 20 Apr 2013 14:21:00 +0000

When I started my knitting journey, I committed to going to any length to create flattering sweaters that really fit - and that's just what I did. I started by getting ten fabulous tutorials recently published by a Boston-area knitter. When she announced in 2010 that she'd be holding her first class in coastal Maine, I signed up and headed north. Amy Herzog's Fit to Flatter class was born - and it changed my life.

Fast-forward to 2013 and Amy Herzog is now a household name, at least where knitters live. Amy recently launched a truly spectacular Craftsy class, Knit to Flatter, that allows people around the world to learn in the comfort of their homes. Now she has published the accompanying "Knit to Flatter" book which offers, as the subtitle says, "The only instructions you'll ever need to knit sweaters that make you look good and feel great!" No hyperbole here.

You'll love both the class and the book. Truly. Amy helps you figure out your particular body type and then gives you concrete instructions about selecting the best sweater for your body. Her advice and approach: discover your shape, select a flattering pattern, and then knit your first sweater that really fits. The book provides 18 attractive patterns that are designed to be easy to customize for your particular shape. Amy says that after knitting a first sweater that really fits, you will then be able to apply this knowledge to almost any other garment and consistently make well-fitting sweaters that make you look your very best.

One of the things I like best about the book is that Amy uses real women with real bodies, including some larger models. I asked Amy about particular challenges and solutions related to ample knitting.

Julie: You've met a lot of knitters nationwide teaching about sweater fitting. What have you learned in particular about larger women and their bodies?

Amy: I think the most powerful thing about seeing so many larger women, and talking with them about their sweaters, is the coalescing of several facts into a whole picture. Fact one is that larger women tend not to have larger shoulders. Fact two is that the standardized measurement chart used by the fiber industry is a straight graded scale (everything gets larger together). And Fact three is that we're so hung up on size that many women assume their size is the cause of an unhappy sweater-knitter pair.

I knew all of those things before starting the workshops, and even had thoughts about how to address them (the first two by choosing a base size that fits well in the shoulders as a starting point for a successful sweater, the third by concentrating on the much-more-important shape rather than size). But really considering them all as a (powerful, terrible) unit was hugely, sadly enlightening.

Julie: What discoveries do larger women make in your classes?

First, that their size truly isn't the important factor in whether they like a sweater. It's all about that body shape and the silhouette our figures present to others.

Second, that they can in fact look great in hand-knit sweaters--the samples I bring to class are invaluable for this. For many women, it's the first time they've ever seen themselves in a properly-fitted sweater! And that's incredibly empowering.

And finally, what modifications they need to make to ensure a perfect fit.

Julie: Which are the most important sweater mods for larger women?

The single most important consideration to start with the right "base size"--one that will fit well in the shoulders. This number is often 6'' or more smaller than what the knitter would choose based on the fullest part of their bust.

After selecting a size where the sleeve cap math and shoulders work, the focus is all on the geometry of their particular body. Do they carry their weight all in front, with a more flat backside? They may knit the back and sleeves as written, focusing on making the front of the sweater wider to accommodate them. Are they perfectly proportioned and curvy, but larger? Add inches at the hip, waist, and bust--and shape, shape, shape that sweater! It sounds intimidating, but definitely makes sense once you know your body's inherent shape.

Finally, shaping is another super important modification for larger women. All women need shaping, but larger women especially--the body is much more flattered by something shapely than by something boxy. And we go into detail about how to achieve that look without resulting in a sweater that clings.

Two special offers for Knitting at Larger readers!

Would you like to take Amy's Craftsy class? For a limited time, Knitting at Large readers can purchase Amy's Knit to Flatter class for only $19.99! You really should take this class. Seriously. Even experienced knitters will benefit from this terrific learning opportunity.

I'm also giving away a free copy of the Knit to Flatter book! To sign up for this contest, simply leave a comment that briefly describes your biggest sweater fitting challenge. I'll pick a winner on April 30. Good luck!

Stash sale!

noreply@blogger.com (Julie Matthews) — Mon, 15 Apr 2013 16:38:00 +0000

I'm selling off some stash at fabulous prices. Just go over to my Etsy store to make a purchase. All prices include FREE shipping to the continental USA!

CLASSIC ELITE BAM BOO

SOLD

16 skeins or over 1800 yards of Classic Elite Wool Bam Boo in color 1616 White. All are the same dye lot. All skeins are clean; 10 skeins are bagged and the rest are in as is, perfect condition.

Classic Elite Wool Bam Boo's wonderful combination of fibers produces a yarn with drape, softness and sheen, plus bamboo's hypoallergenic and antimicrobial properties.

Content: 50% Wool/50% Bamboo
Care: Hand Wash
Weight/Yardage: 50g/118yd
Gauge: 5.5 sts = 1" on US 6
Knitting Weight: DK

BERROCO COMFORT CHUNKY

BUY NOW - $33 includes free shipping to continental USA

8 skeins or 1200 yards of Berroco Comfort Chunky in color 5734 Black. All are the same dye lot. All skeins are bagged in perfect condition.

Berroco Comfort Chunky is soft, easy care, and perfect for those quick, sometimes last-minute knits-great for blankets and more!

Content: 50% Super Fine Acrylic/50% Super Fine Nylon
Care: Machine Wash Gentle Cold, Dry Flat
Weight/Yardage: 100g/150yd
Gauge: 3.5 sts = 1" on US 10.5
Knitting Weight: Bulky

KNIT PICKS WOOL OF THE ANDES

SOLD

1780 yards of Wool of the Andes in Blossom Heather, a beautiful delicate pink. Wool of the Andes, a classic worsted wool yarn spun that is plied carefully to achieve a wonderfully balanced twist, provides a sturdy yet soft yarn with excellent stitch definition and heirloom durability. Peruvian sheep are a cross between Corriedale (for the sturdiness) and Merino (for the softness), producing a strong fiber with an excellent softness quotient for a wide variety of uses. Felts beautifully.

Fiber Content: 100% Peruvian Highland Wool
Yarn Weight: Worsted
Knitting Gauge: 4.5 - 5 sts = 1" on #6 - 9 needles (4.0mm-5.5mm)
Crochet Gauge: 11–14 sc = 4'' on I - K hooks (5.5 mm-6.5 mm)
Yards: 110yds
Grams: 50g
Put Up: ball
Care: Hand Wash/Dry Flat

KNIT PICKS COMFY BULKY

SOLD

Knit Picks Comfy Bulky in Flamingo - at least 2500 yards - includes unfinished plus-size sweater!

Soft and machine washable, Comfy Bulky is the ultimate solution for easy care and warm weather knitting. The breathability and softness of natural Pima cotton allows for comfortable wearing, while the touch of acrylic microfiber adds just the right amount of elasticity. This bulky cotton blend has superior wearability and longevity, which you are sure to appreciate over the years. Excellent stitch definition too!

Fiber Content: 75% Pima Cotton, 25% Acrylic

Yarn Weight: Bulky

Knitting Gauge: 3.5 - 4 sts = 1" on #9-10 needles

Yards: 136yds

Grams: 100g

Put Up: ball

Care: Machine Washable/Tumble Dry Low

Love the Bartok!

noreply@blogger.com (Julie Matthews) — Sat, 13 Apr 2013 20:40:00 +0000

Today we held our meetup of the Knitting at Large/Dream Sweaters group in Brunswick, MD. We meet monthly and draw folks from WV, VA, MD, and PA - if you're within driving distance, you're always welcome. In fact, this time I brought my cousin Leslie from Indiana, a creative tour de force in her own right. And she makes me laugh!

I debuted my newly lengthened Bartok and received more compliments than I can count. But more importantly, I love it. Comfortable, cute, nice fit, both bohemian and Pennsylvania Dutch, and now long enough. It's enough to make me smile.

Longer

noreply@blogger.com (Julie Matthews) — Tue, 09 Apr 2013 13:36:00 +0000

I spent a few days pondering my recently completed Bartok Tunic and decided that I needed to make it longer. As a tunic, it should be longer, but the way it fell on my body, it ended right above my belly - just high enough to drive me nuts. If I lifted my arms even a little, my belly would show and in my head I'd hear my mother's incessant half-whispered, very bitchy command to "PULL DOWN YOUR SHIRT!" (My mother loved me but she absolutely hated my belly.)

A couple of nights ago, I pulled out the scissors and chopped off the bottom. Then I set about picking up stitches and picking out little bits of cut-up stitches. It's not as hard or as scary as it seems; in my experience, the surgical patient has never unraveled uncontrollably leaving me with a tangled-up mess. Note that I knit only in natural fibers, usually with wool content. If you knit with a slippery man-made yarn, all bets are off when it comes to this kind of modification.

After I picked up the stitches, I just started knitting downward. I added almost three inches and then finished it off with an inch of garter stitch, like the original design. Easy peasy.

I should be finished this evening. After some brief spray-bottle blocking, I will model it for you. The Bartok really is a beautiful sweater and worthy of this modification that will make it more comfortable for me to wear. Plus I'll never have to hear my mother's admonition again - at least with this garment. ;-)

Bartok to block

noreply@blogger.com (Julie Matthews) — Mon, 01 Apr 2013 19:30:00 +0000

The only good thing I can say about having pneumonia for almost three weeks is that you get a lot of knitting done. I wrapped up the Bartok and took a quick middle-of-the-night iPhone pic just to check the fit.

This morning, I soaked the pullover in Eucalan and now it's laying out to dry (just like Moosie although he technically didn't get wet).

I'll have more pictures when it's dry. This is going to be one of those sweaters I wear once this season and then it will go in the trunk until next fall. Oh well, I knit sweaters all year long so it doesn't matter much. Just might need to buy another trunk!

Coming up: a review of Amy Herzog's new Knit to Flatter book and Craftsy class, a miniature Aran cardigan I'm making for my youngest sister who is pregnant, and the upcoming Mindy KAL - get your yarn now and start swatching!

New KAL, new pattern

noreply@blogger.com (Julie Matthews) — Fri, 22 Mar 2013 18:49:00 +0000

I'm excited to announce a new KAL for a great new pattern that comes in large sizes, too. Meet Mindy, a worsted-weight cabled cardigan released this week by one of my favorite designers, Julia Farwell-Clay.

You know Julia - from me, if nothing else! She is the creative mind behind the Bartok I'm currently making, as well as my Hiro Cardigan and the much beloved Takoma which I also hope to finish one of these days. Many of your know the innovative Mork Pullover, too. I was going to make this one but decided the ribbing would curl under my belly too much (a personal problem - it works perfectly for everyone else). Here are the sleeves I made for each of these sweaters (love this graphic, btw).

The Mindy is the companion sweater to the Mork. It also features strong, angular cables, but this time in a long, slimming cardigan. The generous sizing accommodates everyone from 35.5 inches to 61 inches (yes, say a hallelujah for Julia, a wonderful designer for larger women). Mindy also features a gentle A-line which gives those of us with more in the caboose a little room to move.

In terms of construction, Julia describes the cardigan thus:

The sweater is knit using traditional construction, worked as pieces and seamed although knitters are free to knit the front and back seamlessly. The set-in sleeves are worked in the round to the underarm bind-off. The collar is knit using short rows to incorporate front placket stitches, and finished with an i-cord edging. Collar can be worn up for a Mandarin effect... or folded over.

Julia knitted the original in the sumptuous Lorna’s Laces Haymarket, a 100% Blue Faced Leicester in a color called The Skyway. Like everything else from Lorna's Laces, I've heard nothing but rave reviews.

Now, about the KAL. We begin Friday, April 19. That gives you time to pay your taxes, finish whatever you are knitting now, and be ready to start a glorious new project, too. To sign up, simply visit the Mindy KAL on the Julia Farwell-Clay Rav Group. We'll be posting yarn possibilities, swatches, and the like, and can answer your questions, too. Julia will be chiming in along the way, so you can talk to her about your project, too.

I've already swatched for my Mindy (I've been out sick much of the week, but I was able to muster a swatch). I'm using the merino/cashmere Knit Picks Capra I was going to use to make the Mork - my Mork and Mindy truly are companions. I love how sculptural the cables look in merino wool, especially in this glorious Celestial blue. Truly spectacular.

I also scored some fabulous lampwork glass buttons from an artist in Israel. They'll be perfect, I think.

I'm excited about adding Mindy to my wardrobe. But I need to finish the Bartok first - and get better, too. Have a great weekend everybody!

Rolling downhill

noreply@blogger.com (Julie Matthews) — Thu, 21 Mar 2013 17:12:00 +0000

Whew, what a miserable week. What started as a scratchy throat blossomed into full-fledged flu by the weekend and then barreled free-fall to pneumonia. Could you hear me hacking up a lung in Montreal? I wouldn't be surprised. God bless my beloved Dr. Kwon for rescuing me with heavy-duty meds and lots of kindness. I'm feeling a little better already.

A quick update on my projects. I slog on with my Bartok. I'm in the middle of acres and acres of white stockinette - oh my God, it's like driving on the Ohio Turnpike in foggy gray snow. Unending.

My only salvation is that I'm trying some new shaping to adjust for that unfortunate lift that occurs in the back of every one of my sweaters. Here's one example: my Waltham.

For other sweaters, I've tried adding short rows at the top of my butt thinking that would give me the extra room I needed. But this time, I added them three inches above the hemline, about 20 percent in from each side. This will hopefully give me the extra length at the back hips and make the sweater look even when viewed from the side. You can see that I'm also working on the back waist shaping to give myself a better fit at the back waist, too.

Meanwhile, the sleeves wait patiently for me to finish. In my house, the leather recliner serves as hitching post for completed knitwear pieces.

I carry on amid coughing and general recovery. More news in my next post.

Bartok sleeves - lessons learned

noreply@blogger.com (Julie Matthews) — Thu, 14 Mar 2013 15:03:00 +0000

You know when I go incognito here and on Rav that I'm up to my ears. That's certainly the case now. I'm an overburdened pack horse at the moment, weighed down by family drama, work, and life in general.

But I do manage to slip in some knitting time every evening. I'm plodding away on Julia Farwell-Clay's Bartok Tunic from the most recent Interweave Knits. I finally finished and blocked both sleeves and now have advice for anyone who wants to make this sweater.

As you know from previous posts, I've worried about my yarn choice, Rowan Amy Butler Belle Organic Aran. If I were to make this again, I'd use a wool or wool/alpaca blend. While I love the feel of the Amy Butler yarn, it doesn't make for nice colorwork. I'm an accomplished stranded knitter - I've knitted the Handstrikket and many other colorwork projects, but this is my far from my best work. I think most of the problem is the yarn which isn't the least bit forgiving. With a wool yarn, the spaces between the stitches fill in nicely and give a smooth, even fabric that hides any small missteps. This yarn instead yields what I guess some would call stitch definition. I just call it kind of ugly.

This yarn would have been better off knitted at a tighter gauge, too. I was able to get gauge easily and thought it would be okay, but if I did it again, I'd recalculate the entire sweater at a 4.5 spi rather than 4 spi, or selected different yarn altogether, an easier choice.

My second suggestion is to either do the colorwork all in one color as Julia designed OR to use intarsia for the bird motif. I stranded part of the design at the bottom and tops of the birds and it's pretty chunky looking, especially given the heavy worsted yarn. I should have done the blue vines in four separate intarsia sections and done the birds as two separate intarsia sections. Oh well, live and learn.

The sleeves do look pretty when they're folded into place; they should nice on the tunic. I started the front last night and included more ease than usual because I want this sweater to fit like a tunic and not a fitted cardigan. I should be able to fly through the sweater now - assuming I don't fall asleep during the endless swath of stockinette. :-)

Decision

noreply@blogger.com (Julie Matthews) — Wed, 27 Feb 2013 13:43:00 +0000

For better of for worse, I decided to just move onward with my pink, teal, and cream Bartok's Tunic. I've spent the better part of two weeks screwing around with this one sleeve. It's time to press on - or block as the case may be.

This sleeve is in desperate need of blocking, but I think it will be okay. The sweater is mostly white when taken as a whole; the stranding on the sleeves offers a little punch of color which is softened by the field of snow around it.

Most of all, I love how my sleeve shows off the beautiful chart created by Julia Farwell-Clay. Her inspiration came from Bohemian embroidery, but the design reminds me of the hex signs from my Amish and Quaker roots.

Onward to the second sleeve...

Indecision

noreply@blogger.com (Julie Matthews) — Sat, 23 Feb 2013 19:27:00 +0000

Hmmm. Not sure what to do. I've been working on my Bartok's Tunic, a pattern by Julia Farwell-Clay in the latest issue of Interweave Knits. As usual, I started on the sleeve, because if anything goes wrong, it's less painful to rip back - which is exactly what I've been doing.

I started knitting with Amy Butler Belle Organic, a heavy worsted wool/cotton blend. Goodness, is this yarn a delight. It knits up plushly and becomes even more so after blocking. I was certain this was a good choice for the pattern.

I knitted up to the colorwork portion at the top of the sleeves and then I started pacing in circles. Unhappy with the colorwork, I frogged it back and started again. And again. And again. It just didn't look right to my anal-retentive self. With wool, the yarn forgives and naturally fills in little spaces between stitches. But this cotton/wool blend does not behave. Twists and turns show up everywhere. Or so I thought anyway. Now I look at it and wonder what I was thinking. It looks fine, don't you think?

But I decided that I didn't have the correct yarn, so I got some Berroco Remix. I've knitted this this wool/cotton/silk/rayon blend before and really like it. I already have some left Remix in Strawberry, so I ordered some off-white and knitted a swatch. The gauge is too large - I need to use a size 7 needle instead of an 8. But you can still see the differences between the two yarns.

This all happened several days ago. Ever since, I've been wandering around wondering what to do. I like the Amy Butler yarn but not particularly the colors, which seem like teal and salmon from the 1980s (although maybe they're all the rage now, who knows). I prefer the color in the Remix swatch, but unfortunately that color isn't availabe in the the Amy Butler yarn which is being discontinued; there are only a handful of color left.

Now I'm wandering around my own personal labyrinth trying to figure out which yarn to use. It's a conundrum. I'll let you know when I decide. Let's hope that's soon because I'd certainly rather be knitting than worrying about knitting...

Jackpot!

noreply@blogger.com (Julie Matthews) — Thu, 21 Feb 2013 14:52:00 +0000

I rarely drink or gamble - I'd rather stay home and knit! But I'd love to go to this casino...

Bartok's Tunic

noreply@blogger.com (Julie Matthews) — Tue, 12 Feb 2013 16:02:00 +0000

Now that I've finished Spencer's Dr. Who scarf, it's time to get back to sweater knitting. I feel like I'm cheating when I knit smaller projects like scarves, mittens, and Christmas ornaments. I am indeed a monogamous knitter; I am devoted to sweaters (and maybe a vest).

My next project comes from the Spring 2013 issue of Interweave Knits. I'm making Bartok's Tunic by my favorite designer, Julia Farwell-Clay.

Julia designed the last sweater I made, the Hiro, my best cardi ever. Bartok also involves colorwork, but this time it's intarsia inspired by Hungarian embroidery. I went searching to see what this embroidery looks like and discovered an amazing 90-year-old Hungarian tunic. You can see just what Julia had in mind when you examine this Bohemian beauty.

For my Bartok, I'm using Rowan Belle Organic Aran by Amy Butler in Moonflower, Peacock, and Tomato. I'm envisioning a white background with blue birds and pink trim but we'll see how it goes when I swatch the motif (I am waiting for the Peacock and Tomato colors to get here).

As always, I cast on for the first sleeve. So far, so good. Unfortunately, the pattern only comes in sizes up to 48 inches. I wish Interweave Knits would get it. On occasion, the magazine throws in a larger size, but not usually. In a world where 60 percent of Americans are overweight or obese, you'd think Interweave would want the business. Apparently not. This simply-shaped garment is fortunately easy to upsize - for the six knitters nationwide who know how to upsize patterns. I'm being both hyperbolic and honest.

I'll explain how I'm upsizing this sweater as I go. For the sleeves, it's a simple fix: the entire sleeve is the same width as the widest part of the sleeve before decreasing for the armscye. On the pattern, the measurement for the largest size 17.75 inches. My upper arm measurement with ease is 20 inches, so I cast on for 20 inches of stitches and am knitting upwards. Easy peasy.

To figure out how many stitches to cast on for the sleeve, I multiplied the gauge by the total inches needed and then added two stitches for the seam. So:

4 stitches per inch X 20 inches finished width = 80 stitches + 2 seam stitches = 82 total stitches

I'll keep you posted as I go, so come back soon!

You.... ARE AWESOME

noreply@blogger.com (Julie Matthews) — Tue, 12 Feb 2013 14:41:00 +0000

My youngest nephew, Spencer just celebrated his 15th birthday and I'm happy to say that my gift was his very favorite. I made the beloved kid a replica 14-foot-long Dr. Who scarf from.

Who? That's what I said. For those like me who are also not in the know, Wikipedia reports:

Doctor Who is a British science fiction television programme produced by the BBC. The programme depicts the adventures of a Time Lord—a time travelling, humanoid alien known as the Doctor. He explores the universe in his 'TARDIS', a sentient time-travelling space ship. Its exterior appears as a blue British police box, a common sight in Britain in 1963, when the series first aired. Along with a succession of companions, the Doctor faces a variety of foes while working to save civilisations, help ordinary people, and right wrongs.

As least Dr. Who isn't a gun-toting, anti-social drug addict! But the main character does wear a crazy-long striped scarf and Spencer wanted one BAD. His wish is my command.

I used Tara Wheeler's free pattern for the scarf from Season 12 - apparently someone reknits this thing in the same colors but with different stripes every year (!). The pattern calls for Cascade 220 but Spencer didn't want even-remotely itchy wool around his neck, so I used Berroco Vintage instead. Vintage is an uber-soft wool/acrylic blend that is a step above most non-natural fiber yarns.

On Spencer's birthday, I posted my birthday wishes and a photo of the scarf on Facebook. His response made me cry: Aunt Julie, Have I ever mentioned how Awesome you are, because You.... ARE AWESOME. I'll tell you who's awesome. It's that kid! I've made a lot of knitted gifts in my time and no one has made me feel more appreciated than Spencer.

And on a more positive note...

noreply@blogger.com (Julie Matthews) — Tue, 05 Feb 2013 16:48:00 +0000

Let's all give a hearty "AMEN" to J.K. Rowling...

I understand

noreply@blogger.com (Julie Matthews) — Mon, 04 Feb 2013 17:16:00 +0000

I understand this... thought you might, too. From the incredible Gemma Correll.

Two new Marly Bird designs - and a giveaway

noreply@blogger.com (Julie Matthews) — Sun, 03 Feb 2013 15:17:00 +0000

Marly Bird published two new ample patterns - and I'm giving away a copy of each! Both designs are waterfall cardigans, the height of style this winter.

Her first design appears in the current issue of Love of Knitting. Called Opening Night, "dramatic trim and luscious yarn are coupled together in a pattern that will quickly become a fav," Marly writes. She made this comfy cardi in Classic Elite Montera, an aran-weight wool/llama blend, which means this project will knit up quickly. The sweater comes in finished bust sizes up to 57 inches.

Marly's second waterfall cardigan, Honeycomb Swing Jacket "may just become your go-to garment when the temperature dips. Knit in an appealing shade orange. Belted or unbelted, the Honeycomb Swing Jacket is a day-to-night accessory that will make you look good and feel good. The simple rectangular shape creates a lovely draped front beautifully accented by the delightful honeycomb cable edging. The sleeves are picked up and knit down from the armhole opening. Shown here with short sleeves, it would be equally dramatic with long sleeves or as a vest." Marly designed this cardigan for Rowan Felted Tweed Aran and in finished bust sizes up 50 inches.

I'm giving away one copy of each. Just leave a comment below telling me which pattern you prefer. Winners will be announced next week. Good luck!

Stash reduction sale

noreply@blogger.com (Julie Matthews) — Tue, 22 Jan 2013 19:39:00 +0000

My cup runneth over, so to speak, so some of this yarn has got to go! I've set up these yarns in Etsy, so if you see something you like, go for it. I'll be posting more stash yarn in the future, almost always with enough yardage to make an ample, long-sleeved sweater. The prices, which are all welllllll below retail, include shipping. Email me if you have questions.

Cestari 3-Ply - $57 - ~~Buy Now~~ SOLD
10 Skeins or 2900 Yards
Color: Bark (dark brown)
Content: 100% wool
Care: Hand Wash
Weight/Yardage: 112g/290yd
Gauge: 5.5 sts = 1" on US 6
Knitting Weight: DK

Queensland Rustic Tweed - $67 - ~~Buy Now~~ SOLD
Content: 63% Wool/27% Alpaca/10% Donegal
Color: Pink 908
Care: Hand Wash, Dry Flat
Weight/Yardage: 100g/278yd
Gauge: 4.5 sts = 1" on US 8
Knitting Weight: Worsted

Cascade Dolce - ~~Buy Now~~ SOLD
21 Skeins or 2289 Yards
Color: Cream
Content: 55% Superfine Alpaca/23% Wool/22% Silk
Care: Hand Wash
Weight/Yardage: 50g/109yd
Gauge: 5 sts = 1" on US 7
Knitting Weight: Worsted

Classic Elite Portland Tweed - $97 - Buy Now
20 Skeins or 2400 Yards
Color: Rosewater
Content: 50% Virgin Wool/25% Alpaca/25% Viscose
Care: Hand Wash Cold, Dry Flat
Weight/Yardage: 50g/120yds
Gauge: 4.5 sts = 1" on US 7
Knitting Weight: Worsted

Kudos to Quince & Co.

noreply@blogger.com (Julie Matthews) — Fri, 18 Jan 2013 23:31:00 +0000

Earlier this week, I posted a rant about beautiful but inadequate photos used to market patterns. I've heard from a lot of you who agree. Today, I want to look at Quince & Co. which consistently delivers the best of both worlds: attractive, evocative photos and that show both the entire sweater and details, too.

As a wonderful example, check out Bristol Ivy's Linnae Pullover which Quince & Co. published this week. The Rav page provides a nice description of the design:

Drawing on such diverse influences as Scandinavian design, 1960’s mod fashion, and clean, tailored lines, the Linnae pullover is a classic sweater with modern appeal. Knit from the bottom up with waist shaping and a raglan yoke and featuring a simple and fun fair isle detail, this sweater is a timeless addition to any wardrobe.

I always love to hear the inspiration for a piece. To accompany this introduction, Quince leads with a long shot of the sweater.

This close-up shot shows the paired circles of the Scandinavian motif and the interesting raglan seam and the neckline, too.

Next, Quince zooms in on the sleeve, giving an effective view of both the motif and the cuff.

Finally, the company offers another long shot. Quince could have thrown in a picture of the back for good measure, but it's clear the back is much like the front so in this case, it's not critical.

Quince & Co.'s photos are usually (always?) shot by the highly talented photographer and knitwear designer, Carrie Bostick Hoge. Her unique combination of skills brings the fresh look to all of the company's patterns. Note the beautifully lit, neutral interior and the snap of red yarn used as a prop. Perfect.

I've saved the best news until last: this new pattern is offered in sizes up to 62.75 inches. I am just delighted that Quince & Co. is joining Berroco and KnitPicks in providing sizes for the ample among us. I know you share my excitement in finally being able to knit stylish garments that used to be available only in smaller sizes. Now if only Interweave Knits and KnitScene would catch up. I noticed in that last KnitScene that the vast majority of largest sizes offered are below 52 inches. Unacceptable.

If you want these companies to continue to support larger women, then you need to support these companies. Buy their patterns and their yarn and knit, knit, knit! Then post your finished sweaters on Ravelry. Many in the knitting industry are convinced larger women don't knit sweaters for themselves; we're proving them wrong. Knit on, intrepid knitters! You're making a difference in the marketplace and in your closet, too.

Show me the sweater!

noreply@blogger.com (Julie Matthews) — Mon, 14 Jan 2013 16:16:00 +0000

One of the joys of writing a blog is that I can complain bitterly from time to time. Today's whine: using creative photography in knitting patterns does not eliminate the need to show me the whole sweater.

As an example, consider a new pattern published today, Chocolate Stout by Thea Colman. As usual, it appears to be a beautiful design because Thea is a terrific designer. But the problem is that there are 11 photos on the Ravelry pattern page, and not a single one shows me the entire sweater straight on from the front, back, and side.

I appreciate beautiful photography, but when it comes to buying a pattern, I want to see the whole damn sweater, front, back, and center. That's the only way I feel comfortable buying a pattern. With the artsy fartsy photographic approach, it's up to me to reconstruct the sweater in some Frankenstein way. Drives me nuts.

Another complaint: why do pattern publishers use models with long hair that covers up important sweater details? Here are a few examples:

Is this sweater have raglan or set-in sleeves? Who knows?

Kindra

And what does this collar look like exactly?

Check Cable Cardigan

Ditto on this one.

A La Carte

Sometimes accessories make it impossible to see how a pattern actually fits. When I looked at the projects for this pattern, I was shocked - they fit completely differently than the pattern version.

Aeneas

Rant over. Please designers, remember that we need to see the truth and nothing but the truth when it comes to your designs. Add all the creative photography you want, but give us some straightforward views, too. And while you're at it, don't forget to include a complete schematic so that we can make the mods we need to make your sweater really fit.

Meet Kerin Dimeler-Laurence, Knit Picks' Designer

noreply@blogger.com (Julie Matthews) — Tue, 01 Jan 2013 18:23:00 +0000

With the Knitting at Large Knit Picks KAL beginning in just a few days, I thought you should meet the company's amazing resident designer, Kerin Dimeler-Laurence. Here she is knitting on a fishing boat. Makes complete sense to me! This is exactly what I would do if Tom took me fishing.

Kerin Dimeler-Laurence

I asked Kerin about knitting in general and designing for ample women in particular.

How long have you been designing? And how did you come to design patterns?

I've been designing roughly as long as I've been knitting; I didn't learn to read knitting patterns until I was in college, so before that I would just make it up as I went along. I started sewing clothing when I was really young, all without patterns but ‘traced’ essentially from existing clothes I had. Even though I didn't know all the right terms for things, I could draw out the pieces for a collared shirt or a vest and sew it up by hand, adjusting to make everything fit properly. I applied the same to knitting. Even after learning to read patterns I still wanted to change everything to make it "mine," and eventually I started getting asked to write it down. When I worked for a yarn store, I started writing simple, free patterns that we’d give away with a particular yarn. After a while the patterns became more complex, and I think at that point I was considered a designer. It was an organic process! I still consider what I do more play than design, in a way.

Mistake Rib Neckwarmer

You design incredible patterns with both cables and colorwork. Which is your favorite and why?

Colorwork, certainly! I love experimenting with color and trying to essentially paint with yarn. I have an arts background and spent many long hours with paints or pastels working on illustration; in a way, I look at knitting as just a different sort of canvas for that. I do love cables, but they don’t give me quite the same satisfaction as a good block of intarsia! I think also that from a chart perspective, colorwork can be simpler to read. Once you get into some really difficult cables, or invent your own, it can get really confusing to a knitter. Colorwork is a little more straightforward in that respect.

Tuva Pullover

Why did you decide to start designing sweaters in larger sizes?

It was natural, really. Growing up, watching my mom try to find nice clothes that fit her and then going through the same thing as a teenager and adult, I wanted to be sure that whatever I made, there was a size that would fit my mom. Not that she’d knit herself a sweater, but I’m sure my mom isn't the only person who has felt disheartened by the lack of options. I have to say I was also pretty unimpressed with a lot of the plus size collections I’d seen coming out; in some, the largest size would have been just a little too big for me and I’m actually pretty average. So I got really offended on behalf of anyone who would see a collection for plus sizes, only to find themselves excluded. By that same token, seeing patterns and clothes that are unattractive or just unflattering aimed at plus size gals, as far as I can tell, defeats the purpose of making your own clothing! I don’t think anyone should be excluded from making pretty things that they like to wear. If you’re willing to put in the effort to make something, no matter your size there should be lots of choices.

Yarrow Blouse

What's the hardest part about upsizing patterns for larger women?

Definitely body shape. Different women carry their weight in such different ways that it's nearly impossible to really account for all the differences in one pattern. In that way I have to take an averages approach, and make sure the garment would fit about how you'd expect a store-bought item to fit; not always the best for everyone, unfortunately, and that's a struggle. I sew a lot of my own clothes, and a lot of what I learn from that helps me understand how to tweak things here and there for a better fit, but it's still a really individual thing. Luckily, I do have a CAD program for fashion design that includes misses, women's and plus size slopers, which helps me make certain basic adjustments at the right sizes (lower armholes, higher waist, more subtle shaping, etc). What I can't do, really, is adjust for swaybacks, wider bust or hips, rounder shoulders and the like, since not everyone has those. It's frustrating, really, knowing that I can only get it about 80% there for everyone! This goes for all sizes, not just plus.

Fogarty Creek Blazer

Do you have any advice for larger women when it comes to knitting your designs (or any other designs for that matter)?

Firstly, be honest with yourself. I know sometimes it can be disheartening to break out the measuring tape and write down what you see, but it's so important to really know your size and think honestly about how you like your clothes to fit. That might mean going up a size – but it's just a number, after all! This is especially important for any measurements where you feel you might be differently shaped than average – if you always need to adjust the neck width, sleeve length, wrist circumference and such, be sure you have those measurements handy. You can use those measurements and a project's gauge and a whole new world opens up!

Black Oak Jacket

The other advice I would say is to send constructive feedback to the designer. I can't say I know too many knitwear designers personally, but I don’t think any of us would try purposefully to write patterns that don't fit. So, any time you have suggestions to make something fit better for your size, whether something like 'the largest three sizes should really have an underarm gusset,' or 'this is the way I alter every pattern to fit a larger bust, you might want to suggest that for this sweater,' will be helpful. The more you communicate your needs with designers, the more well-fitting patterns you’ll end up getting! Keep in mind that a lot of issues you might encounter are up to simple ignorance on the designer's part – we might just not have thought about that particular thing. While we can’t revise a pattern to fit everyone individually, the more feedback we get about sizing concerns and fit, the more appropriate patterns we can write in the future.

Nonna's Garden Shawl

Finally, this is more of a request than a question. Ample knitters need to make revisions to almost every pattern to get it to fit their particular lumpiness, as I say. One thing we REALLY need are schematics with all measurements so we can tell where and what we need to modify. Your patterns don't come with a full schematic at this point. I was wondering (hoping) if maybe you have the measurements in a spreadsheet somewhere? If you could send me a copy, I'll work with the girls to mod their sweaters. I can put revised schematics up on our board, too. Let me know what you think.

I do have schematics for a lot of the patterns, but not all of them, and likely not with the level of detail you'd need for adjustment – though I do keep copious notes. I can certainly go back through and update schematics I have, and create ones for patterns that don't have them! Going forward all of the patterns I write will have a pretty well filled-out schematic – it hadn't been as high a priority before to include one, but we’re working on that! I’m looking through the KAL on Ravelry to get a list of patterns to start with. I've also updated all of my plus-size patterns on Ravelry to include the tag "plus," so that should bring up a lot more options for folks who are looking! I’d also like to mention that right around the time your KAL starts, several more patterns will be coming out. In case anyone wanted to wait till they had their holiday gift money to get their yarn, there will be more options then!

Aesa Pullover

How to Knit a Sweater that Fits - Part 3

noreply@blogger.com (Julie Matthews) — Thu, 27 Dec 2012 19:13:00 +0000

Welcome to the third installment of my How to Knit a Sweater that Fits. In the first post, we discussed taking accurate measurements and then using them to create a schematic of your body. In the second installment, we talked about how selecting sweaters that best match your shape lead to a better fit. Today I'm going to show you how I use my body schematic to create an optimal sweater schematic, one that I now use over and over regardless of the pattern I make.

First, take a look at my personal body schematic. The measurements are on a graphic below, but I want to show you the silhouette of my body. Before we go further, let me point out that I'm not shaped like most people. I have a complicated body shape-wise and have to do complicated shaping to accommodate it. Getting a correct fit for most of you will require far less effort.

So what do you do after you have this body schematic? You then figure out how much ease you want in your sweater. Ease, as you likely know, is a matter of great debate and personal preference. After a lot of trial and error, I've discovered that I prefer two inches at my bustline and four at my waist and hips. YOUR MILEAGE MAY VARY.

Some knitters (especially skinny ones) prefer zero ease or even negative ease, especially at the upper bust. In my humble opinion, this works fine for women who don't have curves (aka lumps, bumps, sags, and the like). I think larger bodies need more ease. As Dottie, my knitting pal and long-time Knitting at Large supporter, pointed out, ease should exponentially increase as the body increases. Let me explain. Assume that a 36-inch sweater includes two inches of ease, or a ratio of .05 (2 divided by 36 is .05). The way most patterns are written, the ease for a 56-inch size will be two inches, too. Dottie and I contend, however, that the ease on a 56-inch sweater should instead be the same ratio (.05 in this case) rather than the same measurement. Therefore, the ease for the larger size should be 2.8 inches (56 multiplied by .05 equals 2.8). I would then round up to three inches.

Regardless, you'll need to figure out how much ease you prefer. Try measuring a sweater or T-shirt that fits you well. A woven fabric won't work as well because the fabric is so different from a knitted fabric, so avoid blouses, etc. After you've knitted a couple of garments, you'll learn more about your ease preferences. Beware creating the equivalent of the big green trash bag - baggy sweaters often don't make the best of your body. Even if you want an unstructured garment, you will likely still want some parts of the sweater to fit well (for example, the shoulders and torso).

Below you'll see my optimal sweater schematic based on my ease preferences. You can see my body in light turquoise and the shape of the sweater around it. Welcome to my holy grail. This image provides a road map for every single thing I'll ever make. Of course, I need a back and a sleeve to go along with it, so I've posted them below, too.

There are a variety of reasons why you should undertake a similar task. First, you never have to measure again (unless you gain or lose weight). Second, you eliminate mystery from your knitting; you no longer need to worry about whether a sleeve is too long or a sweater is too short. With this accurate road map, you know EXACTLY how wide or long a particular sweater section needs to be.

Best of all, you can now knit almost anything to fit you, within reason anyway. I have a 60-inch finished bust size and I'm comfortable looking at sweaters that are at least 50 inches because I know which adjustments I'll need to make. As an example, take the Ravine pullover I'm going to make for the Knit Picks KAL (the schematic is shown below). The numbers in black show the measurements for the largest size, which is 52 inches. The measurements in red show the measurements I need to use to make the sweater fit me.

I want to point out a couple of things. First, note that the bust, waist, and hip measurements are significantly larger than what is provided in the pattern. That makes sense - I'm making a bigger garment. But there are some measurements that are identical - the sleeve depth, for example - and some which are smaller, such as the sleeve length. I've told you 400 times that sizes don't matter and this schematic shows exactly why. It doesn't matter what the uber-talented Glenna C says in terms of sizing. I can keep her beautiful design and make the sweater fit me, too.

Observant readers of this post will note that my back and front sweater schematics above are not identical. I'll explain this next time, and then we'll discuss how to take your optimal sweater schematic and turn it into an actual sweater.

Countdown!

noreply@blogger.com (Julie Matthews) — Fri, 21 Dec 2012 13:45:00 +0000

The dude next door has a digital clock out on his patio that counts down how many days there are until Christmas. Not sure if he's trying to keep track of shopping days or if he wants to drive little children out of their minds, but the device freaks Moosie OUT whenever we walk by it. Moose isn't used to fat, little men being at his eye level.

I'm not counting down until Christmas - no, I've got my eye on the Knitting at Large Knit Picks KAL which starts January 5. I'm all set! My box of Celestial Blue KP yarn showed up this week much to my delight. I'm using Knit Picks' cashmere blend Capra to make GlennaC's Ravine.

Some girls are planning on casting on on Christmas Day and I think I'll join them. After Tom and I open our presents, we'll be settling down for a long winter's nap followed by a ham dinner. As Martha says, it's a good thing. Just ask Moosie.

I am taking off next week and should have time to post a two-part article with Knit Picks' designer, Kerin Dimeler Laurence. I'll also be detailing the next step in knitting a sweater that fits, and will show you the beautiful present I'm getting from the beloved boyfriend (I picked it out so I know what's coming).

Regardless of your own personal countdown, be it to Christmas or our KAL, I pray it will be stress-free. If nothing else, the world didn't end today so it's all up from here.

Back to work

noreply@blogger.com (Julie Matthews) — Thu, 13 Dec 2012 22:04:00 +0000

After spending a couple of weeks horsing around with crocheted scarves and miniature Aran sweater ornaments, I'm back to the Cardinal Cardigan AKA the Chickadee. I'm knitting the sleeves round and round and round. And round!

One interesting thing about this sweater is that it is neither a round yoke nor a raglan - it's both. After knitting the yoke in the round and working a set of short rows, you then transition to raglan decreases as you approach the underarm. An interesting technique.

I definitely missed my Christmas deadline this year, but hopefully I'll be able to wear this cutie next year. I'm hightailing it now hoping to finish the Cardinal before the start of the Knitting at Large Knit Picks KAL January 5.

Now's the time to get ready. Have you picked out your Knit Picks plus-size pattern and/or yarn for this big event? I've finally decided that I am going to make GlennaC's beautiful new cabled pullover, Ravine.

I'm using the luxurious Knit Picks Capra, a DK/worsted cashmere/merino blend in Celestial. I worked on the swatch the other night. Isn't this gorgeous? It's so soft, I keep petting it! Plus the stitch definition is crisp - just look at those cables. I can't wait to make this sweater.

To participate in this fun KAL, visit our Rav group and sign up. The KAL begins January 5.