Mormondo does a wonderful job of creating a psychological profile of the artist, doing his best to get into the mind of his subject and helps us to understand what he might be thinking and feeling and why Bernini does what he does.  Mormondo does not force 21st century values onto his subject and paints a picture of the artist as he should be seen: a product of his time.  This task is most certainly not an easy task, but, the author draws on primary source material in order to complete his profile of Bernini.

Primary source material from Bernini’s own son, Domenico, and observations from those of other eyewitnesses work to create a balanced portrait of the artist, his works, his temperament, and his dealings with others.  Mormondo is always careful and cautions the reader regularly that we must judge carefully Domenico’s accounts of many exploits recounted in his biography.  Using other eyewitness accounts certain helps to balance out some of Domenico’s less believable observations.  In doing so, we are able to judge Bernini through the eyes of several observers.

More importantly, Mormondo recreates Baroque Rome, providing the reader with a realistic account of Rome by discussing not only the art and patrons of Bernini but the politics and problems of the time as well as the circumstances involving Bernini’s works and commissions.  This aspect of the book I enjoyed the most, and I also appreciated the author’s dedication in keeping Rome and its cultural and political climate always “on stage” with the artist.  I enjoy how the author focuses not only on Bernini but on the major players of the time, looking at Bernini’s business rivalries, his love interests, as well as the many patrons who Bernini worked for during his lifetime.  While there is much “gossip” in the book, Mormondo refuses to place his primary source material in any kind of hierarchy:  no primary source seems to reign over any other.  This balanced approach is used throughout the book.

I was pleasantly surprised to see extensive use of Giacinto Gigli’s Diario di Roma, a diary written by one of Bernini’s contemporaries that discusses the going’s on in the Rome from 1608 to 1670. Sadly, this work was translated into English but is hard to find, and the Italian edition, republished in 1994, is also now out of print.  Mormondo cites heavily from this work and allows the reader to enjoy the Gigli’s observations about Bernini, his works, the reception of his works as well as the political and religious climate in Rome at the time.  His invaluable diary and Mormondo’s use of it in support of his research adds much value to the book.

Mormondo takes a lot of chances with his research, but they are gambles that are supported by his source material.  Mormondo clearly understands the minds of those who lived during the Baroque.  He possesses an insight that is invaluable in understanding Bernini and his Rome.  We must admire how Mormondo never sways from reporting the various angles of a story, even when they are risque and scandalous, and he refuses to place Bernini on a “proverbial pedestal” — acknowledging the master’s faults and successes.  You might find Mormondo’s psychological insight into Bernini hard to swallow at times, but his observations help us to see a side of the artist, his works and his environs that simply cannot be dismissed.

Anyone heading to Rome would do well to read this wonderful biography.  It’s almost impossible not to see the works of Bernini while you are in Rome, and this book will help in understanding the artist and his works.

How to purchase:

I purchased this book for the Kindle app on my iPad. A hardback copy of book is available from $35.00 from the publisher (University of Chicago Press).  If you purchase the ebook directly from the publisher, they offer several options, two “30 day loan periods” as PDF or ePub for $7.00 or you could purchase the ebook for $21.00.  Prices are, of course, subject to change.  Visit the publisher’s web site for more details.

Finding a hotel in Rome can be difficult

Many tourists will make a common mistake of trying to find a hotel near all the sites; however, in Rome this is not possible because there are just too many sites and things to see – staying in one part of Rome and visiting only those sites around your hotel will rob you of seeing many other splendors that the city has to offer. Your best bet is to select a hotel that is comfortable, has the amenities you need for the right price and, most importantly, is near to one of Rome’s Metro stops. Being near the metro will help you to get around the city faster on those days where you don’t have time to walk or when the weather isn’t cooperating.

The Hotel Alpi is ideal because of its proximity to Termini station and Rome’s metro. This means that you can get to wherever you need to go regardless of what you want to see on your trip to Rome. Being near Termini puts you right at Rome’s transportation hub – it is where the two metro lines converge and many of the bus lines begin.  Taxis can also be easily hired from Termini Station.

This hotel is also family friendly, providing services for families, such as a special family rooms, as well as baby sitting services, room service, as well as a cute, snuggly teddy bear to await your children when you get to your room. If you would prefer a romantic stay, then their deluxe rooms will be the ideal accommodation to welcome you to the magical atmosphere of Rome.  There are smaller rooms, too, and you are sure to find a hotel room that fits your budget that will offer you a comfortable stay without “breaking the bank”!

Regardless of the room that you select, each one has air-conditioning to provide relief from the hot Roman summers along with free wi-fi so that you can use your laptop or mobile device to help in planning your trip and finding things to do during your stay. You can also use our wireless hotspot on the outdoor terraces, my favorite amenity (pictured left). What a beautiful way to start or end your day, either by enjoying your morning coffee and cornetto (breakfast is included in all of their rates and breakfast served on the terraces is only on request), mid-afternoon drinks, or simply ending your evening with a nightcap! What better way to start or finish your day in the Eternal City.

Transportation, Location and Other Info…

The hotel is located at 84 Via Castelfidardo (00185) in Rome. The hotel’s nearest Metro Stop (fermata in Italian) is  Castro Pretorio on the B Line (Linea B in Italian), and from there the hotel is a short walk down Via San Martino della Battaglia to Via Castelfidardo.

To get to the hotel from the airport, you have several options:

1) Take a taxi from one of the taxi stands at the airport

2) Arrange shuttle transportation from the hotel — you should contact the hotel before your arrival to ensure that the necessary transportation will be at the airport when you arrive! This is ideal if you’re traveling with children and/or have a lot of luggage

3) Take the Leonardo Express train to Termini Station (no stops).  Once you arrive at the station, the Hotel Alpi is just a short walk (see the map below).  Exit the station on the Via Marsala side.  As you leave the station, make a left and follow via Marsala until you reach Via Solferino.  Continue along Via Solferino which opens onto the Piazza dell’Indipendenza. Via San Martino della Battaglia cuts through the piazza, essentially dividing it in half.  Keep to the left side of the piazza as you walk ahead, and you will see Via Castlfidardo (your third street on your left).  Turn left down Via Castelfidardo, and you will see the hotel on your right.

View Larger Map

Check-in begins at 14:00. Check-out is 11:00. For more information on rates, please visit their web site or contact the hotel directly.

With traveler’s checks becoming less common with the advent of credit and debit cards and universal ATM access, bringing physical money with you is not always the concern that it once was.  I do advise that you bring some bills/notes with you, either in your home currency or euro if you can get them.  ATM networks are not always functioning, and you might find yourself without cash if you rely solely on getting money that way when you arrive in Rome.  I learned the hard way recently when I arrived in Rome only to find that the ATM couldn’t communicate with my bank network, and I only had $30.00 in my pocket.  Stash some cash just for these kinds of emergencies!

Try to withdraw only what you need.  Constant withdrawals from your bank account will most likely mean more fees.  Not only will you pay the fee for using an ATM that’s not your banks, but you will also be charged a fee for the conversion from your home currency to euro.  You will also lose money when you convert those euros back to your home currency when you leave the country. I try to save thirty or forty euro at the end of my trip to use on my next trip).

Initial Expenses

Your hotel. apart from your plane ticket, is going to be your largest expense between 100-300 euro per night, depending on where you stay. Hostels, bed and breakfasts, and small hotels are cheaper.  I always advise travelers going to Rome to stay in bed and breakfast, short term apartment, or a decent hostel. You get more for your money, generally – and you’ll most likely be spending most of your time out and about. Your lodgings will just be a place to sleep and relax, but I understand that for many people having a place to crash can be important to them.

Prepayment can be a double-edged sword.  Sure, you might save 10-20% upfront, but what if you do not like the place?  Or perhaps the location isn’t to your likely or comfortable?  Or what if your plans change?  Many prepay deals do not allow for cancellations (think about trip cancellation insurance).  Definitely shop around, read reviews of hotels and hostels, and be certain before you pay.   Keep in mind that hotel rooms in European cities, particularly in Italy, tend to be smaller than what you might expect since space is usually a luxury few hotels have.  Expect to pay more for a larger room.

What things cost in Rome

I think it’s important to know how much things cost in Rome before you head out. Of course, my numbers are based on my own observations! Please leave a comment below with your own observations, too!

A bottle of water in Rome can range from 0.15 euro to 3 euro – it all depends on where you buy it and how well you plan. A coffee in Rome is about 0.80 euro. Remember that a cup of coffee in Rome isn’t really a cup, but a “shot” of coffee.  A cappuccino or a longer coffee (that is, taller) is going to cost you more. A cappuccino can range between 1.50 euro and up, depending on whether you take it at the bar or sit down. Sit down service in Italy costs more than if you take your drinks (coffee or otherwise) standing up at the bar.

Lunch can be inexpensive and on-the-go – a slice of pizza, an aroncini (rice ball with various veggies and/or meats that is lightly fried – sometimes baked), or a panini (sandwich) – and might run you 1-2 euro. Again, if you sit down for something more elaborate, the price is going to go up to anywhere between 10-20 euro per person. Usually walking around outdoors in the heat and being super active makes me less hungry, and I try to find a market or supermarket and purchase some fresh fruit, water, yogurt and some crackers. Fresh fruit is not only good for you, but you can also help the local economy and keep you hydrated.

Dinners will be one of your largest expenses: 20-30 euro per person, depending on where you dine and how much you eat (If you rent a short term apartment, you could even cook a few meals for yourself!). Don’t feel compelled to have a full course dinner every night – save money by sticking to pasta dishes or pizza (if it’s on the menu). A basic Margherita (tomatoes, mozzarella, basil) will run you about 4-5 euro. More elaborate pizzas can range from 5-10 euro. It’s not unusual to order a few antipasti, share them and then finish off your meal with dessert and coffee. Again, what you eat depends on your mood, what you like, and how active you were during the day.

In Italy, there is a “coperto” — this is for the bread and other amenities on the table and can vary by restaurant. Some charge a flat cover while others charge per person. This cost is unavoidable, but will add 2-3 euro per person onto the bill, even if you do not eat the bread. Some restaurants include a gratuity automatically, especially those near hotels and tourist spots — the menu will usually list these charges (hopefully in English) and most menus are posted outside restaurants for you to study before entering.

Getting Around

Transportation in Rome is relatively inexpensive. For 1 euro, you can ride the tram, bus, metro and some regional train lines for 75 minutes. When I went to Rome, I walked 95% of the time to my destinations so it wasn’t cost effective for me to use the 4 euro day ticket. There is also a weekly ticket option, too, if you plan to stay longer and know that you will use the public transportation. Depending on how much you want to walk versus making use of public transport should dictate which ticket you purchase. 4 euro a day for two weeks can add up fast — if you are only using public transport once or twice a day, 4 euro probably isn’t the most cost effective option.

Taxis in Rome are expensive, and I would suggest that you use them sparingly: late at night when the buses are few and far between, when you need to get to the airport, when you arrive after a long flight and public transport isn’t a viable option for reaching your destination (if you have a lot of luggage, a taxi might be the better way to go), or when public transport isn’t going to get you to your destination (for instance, if I stay with friends who live outside the center). For those who do not speak Italian, it might be helpful to write down where you need to go before getting into a cab. For example, you might carry a piece of hotel stationery to hand to your driver or a notecard that you fill out before heading to Italy – you might have trouble pronouncing the name of the hotel or even the name of the street correctly. You don’t want to spend money needlessly in a taxi as the driver criss-crosses Rome trying to find your hotel or being dropped off at the wrong destination and not realizing it!

So how much money do I bring?

Leaving out your hotel or lodging expenses, I think a good rule of thumb is 50-70 euro per day for someone traveling alone. If you plan to be in Rome a week, think of having 350-500 euro per week per person. You can lower your costs by eating cheaply at lunch, making use of the free breakfast at your hotel or bed and breakfast. Budget more if you intend to buy a lot of clothes and other goods while you’re in Rome — just a word to the wise that shopping in Rome can be expensive. July is a good month to shop in Rome as many sales take place starting the first weekend in Italy.

I think that it’s important to know what you want to do while you’re there. I’m not a shopper – I don’t usually buy much in the way of clothes or other high ticket items. I purchase mainly books, some household goods, sometimes olive oil and wine. If you expect to do a lot of shopping, you’ll need to bring more money. If you want to spend a lot of time outdoors and seeing the sites, you can probably get by with less money. Just keep in mind that museum entry fees can add up – try to take advantage of tourist cards (Roma Pass, for example) where you can visit multiple museums and sites for a set price. Many age related discounts in Rome (may) apply only to members of the EU so don’t rely on that to save money, but it never hurts to ask (especially for students and those over 65 years of age.  The more you want to do in Rome, the more you will need to spend.

Having a rough plan of what you want to do and see is important and can help you budget. You don’t need to map out every minute of your vacation, but sketching out some ideas of places you want to visit, things you want to buy, and other activities will help you plan your trip, make your money last longer, and avoid any surprises when you get your first credit card statement after your trip. You don’t have to spend thousands of dollars to have a great vacation but be careful that you do not overdo it.  A vacation can become dull very quickly if you spend more time watching your money than you do having fun!

Spada commissioned Francesco Borromini, famed architect and rival of Bernini, to perform renovations and changes to the building. It is here that Borromini created his “forced perspective” trick (you can see the trick in the video above and below) in the arcaded courtyard.

Cardinal Spada, like many cardinals and nobility in Rome, was considered a patron of the arts in Rome and amassed a wonderful collection of art, and much of it can be seen today in the Palazzo. The Palazzo Spada is open from 8:30 AM to 7:30 PM Tuesday through Sunday (remember that ticket offices cease selling tickets an hour before closing time!). It is closed on Mondays, Christmas and New Years Day. Tickets are 5 euro and allow admission to the courtyard (where you can see Borromini’s “forced perspective” in action) and the four rooms which house the paintings.

Starting on Monday, January 22, the taxis in Rome will be on strike from 8am to 8pm and conducting demonstration at the Circus Maximus.  The ironic thing is…it won’t be hard to find the taxis.  It will just be hard to find them actually taking fares around the city.  This was preceded by demonstrations in Sicily that brought the island to a complete standstill.  These same organizers in Sicily have vowed “to take the fight” to Rome…if you plan to head to Rome in the next few weeks, getting around might be difficult.

I wrote a post on how to avoid letting strikes ruin your trip.  Sure, they’ll cause some problems, but they don’t have to ruin your trip or confine you to your hotel room.  You can read that post by clicking here!

Has a transit strike ever snarled up your trip?  Leave a comment!

A reader of my blog emailed me a few weeks ago

Today’s “digital age” can make travel planning a bit easier, but it still does require a bit of preparation, and you really shouldn’t wait until the last minute.  Do your homework before you go: if you live in the United States, you will have a plane trip of several hours…perfect time to break out the guidebook and read up on Rome and all that is has to offer (although I recommend studying up at least a few weeks before you go).

Here are some ideas that I gave her:

Get a guidebook, stat:

You can’t go to Rome without first reading at least some parts of your guidebook.  Do read the practical sections:  learn where the embassy is, read up on the basic customs (most guidebooks have these kinds of sections), familiarize yourself with the general hours of businesses (some Americans might be surprised that things do close in Rome!) and most other useful information that we take for granted when we are at home.

Try to buy a guidebook that is specific to Rome, as this will give you the most bang for your buck.  General guidebooks on Italy certainly have a chapter or two on Rome, but you will also get a lot of information that might not be useful on your trip.  If you plan to see other parts of Italy, then this might work better for you.  Guidebooks do not have to be those hulking 600 page tomes that you find in your bookstore.  Electronic versions exists, such as Lonely Planet guides which can be purchased chapter by chapter online.  I recommend: Rick Steve’s Rome 2012 or Frommer’s Rome Day by Day.  National Geographic Traveler’s Rome (3rd edition) gives a great overview of the city, its history, things to see and do but doesn’t have a huge list of lodging and eating recommendations.

Guidebooks can also be useful for finding places to stay and eat.  I try not to give lodging recommendations because what I like might not be the same thing that others like.  Choose a place to stay that is within your price range and comfort.  Check out Tripadvisor.com or Hotels.com for reviews of hotels that you might read about in your guidebook.  Short stay apartments might require more work up front, but they can often offer a more comfortable experience.  A good guidebook will lay out all the recommendations for you.

Also, make sure that you learn a little basic Italian before you go: how to say please, thank you, where’s the bathroom, and that sort of thing.  Even if you don’t have the courage or want to speak it, knowing a little of the language can make it easier to understand the locals as you get around.  Most guidebooks have basic phrasebooks, but there are tons of online resources.  My favorite:  Learnitalianpod.com!  It’s free to use, and there are dozens of useful podcasts for beginners!

You need a map:

You need a good map, and you should do your best to study it.  Familiarizing yourself with your environment will make you more at ease and help you to appreciate more your surroundings.  Nothing worse than spending your trip with your face buried in a map and missing all the great sites and wonders around you.

I would recommend an electronic map that you can pull up on your smartphone (if you have one) — such as Google Maps, Mapquest, etc. — or a small, folding map that you can use one those days of inclement weather or when your phone is about to die.  Most guidebooks have maps in the pages or a map stashed in the back of the book that you can pull out.  Try to avoid those big, hulking maps that require a large dining room table to use.  You simply won’t have the space or time to use it while you’re on the streets, and using such a map makes you look like a tourist.  Do your best to draw the least amount of attention to yourself.

The reason I recommend an electronic map is that it will be more up to date than a map printed 2 or 3 years ago.  Check out the Rome app published by mTrip for iPhone and Android phones.

Useful apps to bring along:

Even if you don’t use your smartphone to make calls, it can be a useful resource for its apps.  Simply put your phone in airplane mode if you don’t intend to make calls, turn off anything else that might drain the battery, and you’re good to go.  During my last trip to Rome, I took along my iPhone, put it into airplane mode, dimmed the brightness and disabled things I wouldn’t be using, and I got more than a full day’s use out of the phone.  This will allow you to make use of apps, like mTrip’s Rome app or any other useful apps you might wish to take with you, such as currency converters, restaurant guides, and the like.

If you’ve never been to Rome, do look at Katie Parla’s Room for Foodies app (works on the iPhone, iPod Touch and iPad, and there’s an Android version, too), which features a useful selection of restaurants, bars, wine bars, pizzerias and more.  Finding restaurants that offer the best experience can be difficult if you don’t speak the language.  This app takes the guess work out of it, and the app developer has vetted all of the places, too!

As I mentioned before, mTrip’s Rome app is an indispensable app for getting around Rome and is helpful in creating itineraries and finding things to do.  It can also be used offline, too.  It is one of my favorite apps.

There are several audio guide apps, too.  I like CitySpeaker’s Audio Guide for Rome. Italyguides Rome is useful, too, but a little pricey. Rome 2 Go is a helpful app in getting around the city with information on local sites and general tourist information. Taxi Italia might be a useful app, too, while you’re in Rome – you can read a review of the app (in Italian) from iPhoneItalia.

Remember to disable your data connection if need be while in Rome so that you don’t return back to your home country with a shocking mobile phone bill!

In conclusion…

Don’t rely too much on technology, and remember to bring a paper map with you as a backup in case batteries die or break or perhaps might be stolen (petty theft can be an annoying problem in Rome, but if you keep your wits about you, this shouldn’t be a problem).  Learn as much as you can about your surroundings before you get there, and you will have a better trip for it!

That’s where the app, Rome for Foodies, comes into play. This app works on both the iPhone, iPad and iPod Touch.  Using location services, the app can help you find things to do by laying them out geographically so you can see where you are and where the things that you want to do are located.  Not being in Rome, it’s hard for me to test out the location services of the app.  One thing that I found “annoying” is that the app only seems to work in portrait mode.  Find if you’re using an iPhone, but for the iPad, this could be improved.

The dining subsection is divided into several categories: budget dining, pizzerias, fine dining, among others.  I clicked on “Cucina Romana” to see what was on offer.  The restaurants are listed by those that are closest to your current location, and a half dozen choices popped up for me.  I knew a few of the restaurants, a few I tried, some I would go back to, others I wouldn’t.  Each restaurant has the phone number, a link to a web site if they have one, and how “pricey” the app is – the more euro signs you see, the more expensive the restaurant.  A nice description of the restaurant is listed as well as the hours as well as suggestions of things to try on their respective menus.  You can also save restaurants (just tap on the “Save” button) or share them via text message, Facebook or via Twitter.

There’s also a top picks section of the app developer’s favorites.  There’s also an itinerary section with a list of places to try each day of the week as well as suggestions for dining during the month of August (which can be a tricky time to find a good place to eat since that’s when many Romans go on vacation for Ferragosto).  There are also suggestions for eating in Rome for the holidays, too.  The other listings, for places to drink, shop, etc., are similiary structured.  One of my favorite sections is the “Classes and Tours” section:  if you’re looking for something to do that you can possibly take back with you after your vacation ends, this is the section to explore.

Overall, I like the app ($3.99, works on both iPod Touch/iPhone and iPad; an Android version exists, too, for $2.79) and would highly recommend it, especially if this will be your first time to Rome.  I hope future updates include more restaurants — there are several places left off the lists — as this will make the app more of a resource for traveler’s to the city.  Those of you who know the city well and have a set of favorites might not find the app as useful, but I found several places that I would like to try on my next trip.  Overall, I don’t think that you’ll be disappointed!  A great beginning for this app.

Update:  I finally was able to download the app to my iPhone…I personally felt it worked better.  I found the app was more suited for it, especially being “locked” in potrait mode.  As I said, recommend the app, and purchasing for either device will allow it to work on all your iOS devices!  Also, the app developer left a comment below, too!

Note to readers:  Please note that no one paid me to review
this app nor asked me to review it, and I purchased the app with my own money.

And should private companies be given “control” the image rights of monuments? Can Italy afford not to strike agreements with private companies to help support the restorations of dozens and dozens of monuments? Or is it simply an easy “out” for Italy, taking money from corporations to fund projects that they should be working to manage and maintain? Can Italy afford these kind of “Faustian” arrangements?

With so much history and culture packed into one place, it is virtually impossible for the government and local authorities to keep up. Not only do they face fiscal pressures, they also face environmental problems, such as pollution, traffic and vandalism. The money and manpower needed to keep these monuments safe and open to all is a daunting and almost impossible task, one that is further complicated by Italy’s economic crisis.  The political crisis of Berlusconi’s time in government certainly didn’t help the situation either, and now Italy, faced with one of its worst economic crises since World War II, probably has less money to go around to combat these problems, focusing all its energies on remaining with the EU and lowering its debt costs and burden.

Perhaps these kinds of projects is where the Italian government should be hedging its bets — putting money into lasting projects that will provide jobs, spur the economy while preserving the beauties and splendors of the Eternal City, not just for Italians but for the entire world.

In this post, I want to discuss the “circuses” of Rome. When I say the word “circus”, I don’t mean the the clown and elephant kind. The circuses were narrow in width, long in length with raised seating “upon which people could sit to watch the said events” and were used, according to Palladio, “to stage bullfights and races with horses yoked to chariots”. The Circus Maximus is probably the most famous of them all, located between the Palatine and Aventine Hills and “upgraded” by various rulers and important people in Rome over the centuries it was in use.  These spaces were important for the citizens of Ancient Rome, and many of them serve as important spaces even today!

Apart from the Circus Maximus, there was also the Circus of Nero, Circus Flaminius, and the Circus Agonius. The Circus Agonius is probably more familiar to tourists today as the Piazza Navona (pictured).  The Circus Maximum is now just an open field and often hosts outdoor concerts and political rallies — do take care in and around the Circus Maximus, even during the day! It has been the scene of muggings and violent crime for some tourists.  Always travel safe and be smart!

If you’re only in Rome for a day or two, it might be hard for you to simply wait for the strike to end.  Waiting for the strike to end = wasting your valuable time.   You do have some alternatives:  you can walk around Rome (which I always advise is the best way to see the city, but, of course, this isn’t an option for everyone) or you can drive.  Driving in Rome requires special kinds of nerves that I am sure few of us have (I know I don’t have them — I cannot stand driving in Italy).   Taxis are an excellent (albeit expensive) alternative when public transport is not running, but this expense can quickly add up (not to mention that you will probably spend more time in the car stuck in traffic because when there are transport strikes, everyone is driving).  Also, make sure that you’re not getting taken for a ride, literally, on the cost of the trip.

If you’re not adverse to walking, trekking through the streets and alleyways is my favorite way to see the city.  You will be surprised at how much ground you can cover, and Rome, while a big city, is not as big as you might think.  You can cover a lot of ground in just a day — not only is it good exercise, it is environmentally friendly, and you will experience the city up close and personal!  I advise purchasing Frommer’s 24 Great Walks in Rome ($12.74 on Amazon.com). This wonderful book is filled with walking excursions that you can do all over Rome, and it might be a great way to explore the city on those days that public transport might be unavailable to you.

If you are in Rome for more than a few days, you might take this day to relax, put your feet up, read the paper, have a long lunch, stroll around the area where you are staying or even take the opportunity to get out of Rome: perhaps a trip to Florence, a drive to Viterbo, maybe take a long day trip down to Pompeii, or find something to do outside the city.  As long as the strike isn’t a national one, you shouldn’t have trouble getting out of the city.  You could jump on a pullman (it’s what they call those nice, comfortable buses in Italy) or perhaps use a car service (there are tons of them in and around Rome that offer good deals for getting to Naples or seeing places outside of Rome).  Many guidebooks offer suggestions on where to go and what to do outside Rome — do some research before you arrive and choose one or two excursions that might serve as backups in case you find yourself stuck in Rome.

If you plan to have your own “set of wheels” in Rome, just remember that gas stations also tend to strike in sympathy or on their own to express their displeasure at something going on in the city.  This may make it hard to gas up your car. While some stations are open, you may have trouble finding them if you do not know your way around the city.  Nothing worse than having a car with no gas in it — it will make it all the more difficult to return the car at the end of your trip!

The actress shot three movies in Rome — Roman Holiday, War and Peace, and The Nun’s Story — as well as spending countless years there with her family, the city and its citizens. The exhibit seeks to capture her everyday life in Rome as well as pictures from the UNICEF archives that document her missions around the world as well as a look at the fashions of the period and her style.  An exclusive video edited by Pier Paolo Verga and produced by Luchino Visconti will examine private and intimate “behind the scenes” moments of the actress.

An exhibition catalog will be published by Mondadori in the coming days, too!

Admission to the museum (Google Maps) is 10 euro (citizens of Rome pay only 9 euro by showing valid ID). 2.50 euro from each ticket will be donated to UNICEF. The Ara Pacis museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9:00 am to 7:00 PM — remember, the museum is closed Mondays and the ticket office closes an hour before the museum.  The exhibition runs from 26 October 2011 until 4 December 2011.

FYI: In the Saturday, October 22, 2011 edition of Il Messaggero, there is a wonderful article about the exhibit along with an interview with Luca Dotti and some information about the exhibit.  If you have an iPad/iPhone, you can read the October 22 edition of the paper within the app for $0.99.

NB: Some images from the exhibition can be seen on the museum’s web site (in Italian).

The worst part of this book, I have to admit, is the size, topping out at 11” x 17”!  While beautiful works of arts are wonderfully represented in the tome, the size of the book makes it difficult to carry and handle.  You certainly won’t be cramming this into your suitcase on your next trip to Rome!  I would have prefered to see a more portable book with smaller pictures, but it is hard to argue a case for this since the paintings, manuscripts and drawings featured in this book are the next best thing to seeing them in person.  Make sure your coffee table (or lectern!) is sturdy so that it can support the book’s hefty weight! :)

It’s no surprise that Rome has been an inspiration for artists over the centuries: musicians, composers, painters, sculptors, writers, dramatists, etc…have all used this ancient and glorious city over the years as an inspiration for their countless works.  This tome looks at dozens of paintings and explores the history of Rome, from its fledgling beginnings with the twin brothers, Romulus and Remus, all the way to the 20th century.  Many of the paintings are reproduced with gatefolds of some of masterpieces of art that feature Rome at its center.

Each chapter discusses artistic developments along with the history of Rome within various historical contexts, especially how Rome inspired not just Italian artists but artists all over Europe.  Not all of the paintings are religious in nature, either.  The famous french artist, David, painted a wonderful work entitled The Oath of the Horatii.  In this work, the Roman brothers swear their allegiance to Rome, not a religious deity, the church or a clan or family and emphasize David’s desire for a Republic like Rome, where the “warriors” swore allegiance to the state and not for particular interests.  It demonstrates the power of Rome and how the history of Rome affected contemporary events of these artists.

Another artist of particular interest is Mario Mafai, a Roman artist who painted a Demolition series of paintings as parts of Rome were razed for Mussolini’s grandiose building plans.  These paintings show homes and buildings gutted, almost in a state of disrepair but were in fact being slowly destroyed to make way for a new Rome.  More importantly, they reflect the artist’s angst and despair as his studio and home (as well as those of his friends and fellow artists) were forced to relocate as well as reflecting artistic currents in Rome and art world at the time.

This book is a wonderful way to explore Rome’s history through art, not just Italian art, but the art of Europe.  A city like Rome, which has had many “rebirths…in the course of its history” and “certainly more than one” has had a lasting impact even today as millions of tourists all over the world pay homage to this eternal symbol of survival and rejuvenation!

Ciao amici!

I just wanted to write a short little post about this weekend’s violent protests in Rome. From reading the news reports, it seems that peaceful protests by demonstrators angry over the Berlusconi government  were “hijacked” by an anarchist group (see this Wikipedia post on “black bloc“).  These angry protestors resorted to violence by attacking the police/carabinieri, shops and banks. While most protests around the world were peaceful, they did not remain so in Rome.

As a tourist and visitor to the city, it is important that one not get involved and stay away from these kinds of situations. Avoid demonstrations and protests.  While protests and demonstrations are generally peaceful in Italy, it is always best to err on the side of caution to avoid personal injury.

Should you cancel your trip to Rome?  Personally, I would not cancel my trip, but every person is different.  It is important to understand that the political situation in Italy is very contentious.  Many Italians are angry with the current government, which seems unable or unwilling to combat the economic and social problems facing the country. Laws are often crafted in such a way that they seem beneficial only to the ruling coalition, providing legal “shields” to the prime minister and his allies. Unemployment in Italy is high, especially among young people.  The government seems more concerned with passing laws that work to restrict the freedom of information rather than finding ways to stimulate the economy or encourage job growth.

There are certainly problems in Italy.  I do not believe that violence is an acceptable form of protest, and I deplore the damage caused by these protesters who detracted from the original intent and purpose of the demonstrations.  However, given the political and economic climate in Italy, it does not surprise me.  These events should spur the national and local leaders in Italy to do more to revive their country.

Do you plan to go to Rome soon? Are you nervous?  Will you cancel your trip?  Share your thoughts and opinions!

Updated:  This political cartoon says it all, check it out!

Ciao amici!

I just wanted to send out a reminder about using taxis in Rome. Today in Corriere della Sera there was an article and video about how people were being stiffed by taxi drivers.  I forgot to mention the use of taxis in my last post about Safety in Rome.  Because Rome has been the target of transport strikes with greater frequency, this is an opportunity for customers to be taken for a ride, and not just in the literal sense.  When cheaper public means of transport are not in operation, it can make getting to your destination difficult.

First, never get into a car that is not proper licensed with the taxi authority in Rome.  This means getting your cab from a taxi stand.  Many drivers will walk up and down the line trying to get people to hop into their car.  Once they get you, they will often overcharge you and use your luggage (or your loved ones) as hostages.  Don’t put your safety or your wallet in jeopardy.  Second, always make sure that you have an idea of how much the ride will cost, including how much the driver intends to charge for luggage and passengers.

Finally, if you’re not sure or you feel uneasy, go with a different driver!  Stick to the taxi queues and report any licensed taxi driver to the proper authorities!

I always advise travelers to use taxis as a last resort and to support public transport when traveling.  Getting to the city center from the airport is easy with the Leonardo Express.  Once you reach Termini Station, you have even more options for getting to your hotel/hostel/lodging:  metro, bus or simply walk (although this can be rough depending on how much luggage are towing along!).

A reader sent me an email a few weeks ago asking about safety in Rome. I realized, after scanning over the posts in my blog, that I never really wrote about this before.  In my opinion, Rome is a pretty safe place to be as a traveler, even for those of us that like traveling alone.  Having gone to Rome dozens of times now and usually on my own, I never feel threatened or unsafe, but it is always prudent to exercise caution.

Here are some general safety tips for traveling in the Eternal City:

• If you’re traveling alone and you’re out at night, use common sense.  Stick to well lit streets and avoid “short cuts”, parks and other wooded areas where there is a potential for unsavory characters to lie in wait.  If you’re unsure of where you are, make use of a taxi to get back to your hotel or hostel.  Even during the day, be vigilant.  Read this piece about safety in Rome, and see #6 about the Dutch couple. Empty fields and piazzas should be avoided and stick to main thoroughfares.

• Always carry a paper map of the city with you.  Don’t rely solely on smartphones and tablets — these devices have limited supplies of power, and you don’t want to be lost in a strange city relying solely on an electronic device to find your way home. Leave devices switched off until you need them, if possible.

• In bars and clubs, watch your drink and never leave your drink(s) unattended!

• While on buses and trains, watch your purses, wallets and valuables.  Leave them in your front pocket and do not leave your wallet/purse in a backpack or carry bag. Pickpockets go where the tourists go, and several of the bus/metro lines are popular with the pickpockets and thieves.  Not all pickpockets are adults — children are often the culprits and work in small and large groups to distract you while they make off with your goods.  This is common on trains and buses or even while sitting down at a cafe, where you are often asked to buy flowers or other trinkets.  If you’re pick-pocketed, contact the police right away — you probably won’t recover your stolen items, but you will need the police report for any insurance claim(s) you wish to file. Don’t expect much sympathy or assistance from the authorities with regards to “petty” crime. If you’re driving, avoid stopping to help those stranded on the side of the road.  This is a common trick that robbers use, playing on the victims’ compassion.

• Dress comfortably while in Rome, but try not to look too much like a tourist.  Carry only the things that you absolutely need to have with you.  Large backpacks, fanny packs, cameras around your neck, and walking around and reading a map are distractions that thieves can make use of.  If you need to consult your map, do so discretely and not in the middle of the sidewalk where you are more of a target.  Try to avoid carrying “supplies” with you unless necessary — there are stores and shops all over Rome.  Purchase your water and snacks on the go — this will lighten your load and make you more agile.

• When using ATM machines in Rome, make a quick examination of the machine.  If the machine looks as if it has been tampered with, find another one.  Criminals have been known to tamper with card readers and can steal valuable personal information as you use your card.  Use the same caution and prudence you would use as if you were using an ATM in your home town.

• Definitely make copies of your passport.  Consider scanning your passport and emailing it to yourself as a backup in case your copies are lost/stolen.  Leave valuables in the hotel safe (avoiding traveling with them if you can).  If you’re country has an embassy in Rome, know where it is in case you need their services.  The American embassy in Rome is located in Via Vittorio Veneto, 121 — you can reach them on the metro via Linea A.  Get off at the Barberini/Fontana di Trevi stop (fermata).  It also might be helpful to keep a list of phone numbers for your credit card companies in case your wallet is lost/stolen. Having this information prepared in advance can save you a lot of headache.  Before calling the authorities, be sure to cancel your cards with your bank(s) since the likelihood of recovering your stolen goods will be pretty slim.

• If a stranger starts to bother you while you wait for the bus/train/taxi, stay calm.  If you don’t know the language, it’s possible that they just want to know the time or when the next bus/train is coming. Keep your guard up! Let them know you don’t speak Italian, either by saying so in English or by responding in Italian: Mi scusi – non parlo italiano.  If they refuse to leave you alone, find a policeman, alert the driver on the public transport, or simply get out of the situation.  Considering bringing a whistle with you — they can help attract attention and aid you in summoning help. Avoid direct confrontations with possible assailants since they are often armed. Discretion is (always) the better part of valor!

If you have any other safety tips, please leave a comment!

Recent attacks on Rome’s monuments have left me perplexed and a bit disappointed.  Often, travelers to the city are blamed for damaging the city’s patrimony, but this is not always the case.  Only last week a Roman man vandalized a fountain in the Piazza Navona to make a statement about his own legal troubles (now compounded by his vandalizing). What is even more startling is the man’s admission that onlookers simply watched as he vandalized the statue (even the man arrested for the crime admitted he found it strange that no one made a move or word to stop him).

A recently Repubblica photo-montage of residents and tourists “abusing” the famed fountain the Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere shows tourists using the fountain as a beer cooler, sitting on it like they were in their own living room, and even bathing and walking on the structure.

It’s important that Rome’s city council take steps to protect the artistic heritage of his great city as well as educating residents and tourists that fountains and monuments are not benches.  Tourists planting themselves on monuments, swimming in fountains and using them for coolers prevents others from enjoying them.  Who wants their memories of Rome to be drunken men and women sloshing about a fountain in the Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere?

I have seen tourists shooed away from the Spanish Steps for sitting down and having a sip of bottled water or eating a piece of pizza.  Are the police not able to do the same for some of the “lesser” monuments in the city?  The monuments and heritage of Rome have enough to contend with — a government that seeks to cut more and more from the ministry which oversees cultural and patrimony due to the economic crisis and poor governance as well as man-made dangers such as pollution and acid rain.

While these problems can’t be solved in a day, there is a simple solution that will benefit all:  visitors and residents of the city can help out a lot just by simply treating the city and its treasures as they would wish to be treated.

*image: Fontana della Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere, Rome

Ciao a tutti!

If you haven’t used their apps yet while traveling, definitely check out mTrip‘s apps for Rome and dozens of other cities.  This week they are having a sale on their apps for the iPhone (or just $0.99 for the Android versions).  Of particular interest will probably be the Rome and Venice guides, but they offer apps for cities all over the world!

The sale schedule is as follows:

Tuesday, September 6, 2011:

Amsterdam Travel Guide , Paris Travel Guide, Budapest Travel Guide, Vienna Travel Guide, Tokyo Travel Guide

Wednesday, September 7, 2011:

London Travel Guide, San Francisco Travel Guide, Berlin Travel Guide, Madrid Travel Guide, Dublin Travel Guide, Shanghai Travel Guide 

Thursday, September 8, 2011:

New York Travel Guide, Rome Travel Guide, Istanbul Travel Guide, Singapore Travel Guide, Prague Travel Guide

Friday, September 9, 2011:

Barcelona Travel Guide, Venice Travel Guide, Hong Kong Travel Guide, Munich Travel Guide, Stockholm Travel Guide

Palestrina was the home of an important shrine to the goddess of Fortuna Primigenia (Fortuna the First Bearer) and a massive temple structure was built in her honor. Sulla, one of Rome’s numerous dictators, had the sanctuary embellished in 82 BC, creating this grand and massive structure.

The temple was a series of staircases and terraces, of which the modern city is built in and around today. It is believed that in ancient times, this massive temple could be seen even from Rome and was considered to be the largest temple complex/sanctuary in all of Italy. While the building itself proved to be formidable and awesome, the prize of this site is the Nile Mosaic, a richly colorful mosaic showing scenes of daily life in Egypt (pictured left). Amazingly enough, this wondrous work of art survived the second World War, and it is worth the somewhat steep admissions price of the museum, where it is now housed. Unfortunately, the picture I provided of the mosaic hardly does it any justice, and I remember how blown away by its beauty and chromaticism. This mosaic is on display in Palestrina with the ancient temple now an archaeological museum and is the highlight. The museum also houses dozens of other objects and relics, and if you arrive early enough and the weather is good, you can sometimes take a tour of the excavation.

Besides the archaeological museum, there’s not much in the way to do in Palestrina. However, there are some excellent vantages of the countryside, especially in the small courtyard outside the museum which houses the ancient well of the temple. A few cafès and shops can be found in the city, and I find it a great place to relax and stroll around. The main cathedral has some interesting paintings and frescoes and are definitely worth a look.

Palestrina is also the birthplace of the Italian Renissance composer, Giovanni Pierluigi da Palestrina – a statue of him stands in the town.

If you’re looking for a break from the Roman smog and traffic, then a day trip to Palestrina should certainly be on your intinerary. I do advise, though, that, before taking any trip to Palestrina, some training on a stair climber might be in order!

Getting to Palestrina is going to be the fun part. As the metro doesn’t reach Palestrina, your only means are to go by bus or by car. As driving in Italy can be tough, I would suggest taking the bus — then you can avoid the hassle and headache of finding a place to park. The bus service, operated by a company known as CoTral, is quite efficient and provides regional bus service to and from Rome as well as between some of the smaller cities in Lazio.

The best way to reach Palestrina from Rome is to take the Metro to Anagnina (last stop on the A line/linea A). A bus leaves for Palestrina every 30 minutes or so – check the schedule for P1. You can find the CoTral bus schedules by clicking here. You will be prompted to download a pdf file from the CoTral web site. Go to page 9 to see the start of the departures from Anagnina. You want to get off the stop for ‘Via degli Arcioni’. Make sure that when you are ready to return to Rome, that you get on the right bus, that is the bus that’s heading back to Rome! The bus trip is about an hour, and the metro ride from Center of Rome to Anagnina is probably about 25-35 minutes.

If you choose to drive, I suggest that you take a pass at TuttoCittà.it — you can use this map tool to give you pretty good door to door directions with probably slightly better accuracy than from Google. Drawback of this site – it’s in Italian so you might have some trouble navigating it without knowing a few basic words/phrases. The total trip should take just under an hour, depending upon traffic. I mapped a sample route for you here, also departing from Anagnina. Take note that Palestrina has a limited amount of parking so make sure that you park carefully and be sure to read any signs nearby to make sure that your car is still there when you are ready to return to Rome.

Below is a map that I constructed showing the approximate location of the bus stops of the CoTral bus, if you leave Rome at 9:10am on a weekday. Take note that on the weekends and holidays, the bus schedule may differ – please check the schedule accordingly before setting out:

Sources on Palestrina:

• Agnoli, Nadia, and Sandra Gatti. Palestrina: il Museo archeologico nazionale. Milano: Electa, 1999.
• Gatti, Sandra, Gabriella Cetorelli Schivo, and Nadia Agnoli. Il Lazio regione di Roma: Palestrina, Museo archeologico nazionale, 12 luglio-10 dicembre 2002. Roma: De Luca, 2002.
• Meyboom, P. G. P. The Nile Mosaic of Palestrina: Early Evidence of Egyptian Religion in Italy. Religions in the Graeco-Roman world, v. 121. Leiden: E.J. Brill, 1995.

Ferragosto is the Italian holiday that takes place in August — you can pretty much hedge your bets that most things are going to be closed as Italians head to the mountains, lakes and beaches for some much needed rest and relaxation.  It begins on August 15. Many Italians start their summer vacations during this time, and Rome can be quite deserted (except for tourists) during much of August.

The holiday is a curious one for many reasons, one of which is during the entire month of August, most of Italy closes down except for the tourist areas, hotels and restaurants. Most businesses close so that their employees can enjoy the month of August for some much needed R&R!

Second, the holiday began in ancient Roman times when in 18 BC, the emperor Augustus declared that the month of August would be dedicated to the Feriae Augusti – a slew of festivals that honored the goddess Diana, who served as the protector of labor. The month of August also honored the gods Vortumnus and the Opeconsiva, two gods who were worshiped to ensure that there would be an abundant crop, an excellent harvest, and fruitful seasons and safe weather to ensure that the crops would be bountiful.

Diana was also the goddess of maternity, and the 13th of August was the most important day. The ancient Roman holiday was a celebration of maternity and fertility — whether it was in the fields with their abundant crops, or in the bedroom with lots of (male) children to carry on the family line! The 13th of August featured religious services which honored the goddess Diana — with both men and women hoping for fertile fields and fertile wives.

In Christianity, August is believed to be the month in which the Virgin rose to heaven. Pope Piux XII in 1950 cemented this into the church’s canon, although the idea that August was the month of the Virgin began to take shape in the 1700′s. The Virgin was the one that Christians turned to and prayed to for a good harvest and an abundant crop, taking over the “role” of the ancient gods who originally served that purpose.

Now the modern holiday is a time of rest and relaxation where the entire country slows down and Italians enjoy their summer holidays. August is also the hottest month of the year, and Italians generally flee their cities. The religious aspects of the holiday definitely take a “back seat” to many Italians who see this as a time of rest, relaxation and beating the heat.

You’ll tend to see more tourists than Italians in the major cities since many of them are at the beach. If going to the beach, lakes, mountains or other popular (and cooler) destinations are on your itinerary, expect a lot of traffic and crowds. If super hot weather, crowds and tourists and finding a lot of things closed bothers you, best to avoid Italy in August and wait until September or October for your vacation or earlier in the late spring. Ferragosto is something to keep in mind as you plan your trip to Italy.

It was reported earlier that the tax had to be paid in cash, but there has been some clarification on this.  According to the rules set forth by Rome’s City Council, the tax can be paid with a credit card if the booking has not been prepaid, however, if the booking has been prepaid, then the tax should be paid in cash when checking out.  Please take note that even if you book through a travel agent or prepay for your hotel before you arrive, you will still be responsible for this tax upon checking out.  The tax ranges from 1 euro to 3 euro per night per person depending on the type of accommodations that you choose.  There have been some clarifications on who needs to collect this tax.  You can see the exact breakdown based on accommodation by clicking here.

Remember to figure in this tax as you plan and budget for you trip.  For example, if you and your family (wife and two children) stay in a three star hotel, the tax will cost you 8 euro per night.  A seven day stay will cost 48 euro (about $70): 2 euro per night x four people x 6.  If your stay exceeds ten nights, you are only charged the tax for the first 10 evenings.

There have been some minor updates and clarifications, and you can read about them here.  There are several download pdf’s, and there’s also one in English.

I’m often asked by travelers to Rome about leaving Rome. Is it possible and worth the effort?  I am afraid to drive, can I take the train somewhere? The short answer to both question is yes.

If you plan to visit Rome and feel the need to venture outside of the city, then planning ahead is crucial, especially if this is your first time to the city.  If your time in Rome is a short one (less than three days), then venturing outside of Rome might be difficult.  The longer your time in Rome, the more fun you can have outside of the city.  There is certainly more than enough in Rome to keep you busy and occupy your time, but the bustle of the city and the throngs of tourists can be a challenge even for the most patient and easy-going.  A quick escape from Rome will not only revitalize you but can be a welcome diversion and a chance to experience other parts of country.

The great thing about Rome is that it is possible to reach a great number of places in a few hours by train.  Florence is only a few hours away by train, as is Siena.  Milano might be a possibility if you have more time (you could always take a domestic Italian flight, too).  If you plan to spend several weeks in Rome, you might consider visiting Sicily or Malta for a couple of days or perhaps you would like to spend some time in Venice?  Where you go is, of course, always dependent upon how long your vacation is and your tastes and interests.

Keep in mind that car rentals can be expensive in Italy, and the price of gas is quite high when compared to American gas prices.  There are tour buses (pullman) that are often cheaper alternatives, stress free (driving in Italy can be a challenge), and convenient when the trains do not go to your destination or offer suitable schedules for your needs.  Car services and tour groups are another option, too!

If your trip is a week or less…

…then consider sticking around Rome.  Rome is so wondrous and big, and there are so many things to see and do that it is not likely that you will be bored.  If you are just dying to get out of the city because of the traffic and crowds, some good destinations to visit might be Viterbo or some of the smaller cities and towns in the region, such as Tivoli (Villa Adriana, Villa d’Este, etc.) or Palestrina.

If your trip is between one and two weeks…

…head on down to Naples (Napoli) and visit the archaeological sites of Pompeii and Herculaneum!  Naples is a beautiful city that often gets a bad wrap because of its trash and organized crime problems.  In spite of this, the city is one of the most beautiful in Italy with dozens of monuments, churches and sites to visit — not to mention the amazing pizza and coffee that this city boasts!  Consider seeking out a tour group or car service to get you there and back — this might be the best bet if you’re a large group.  It might be more convenient and a time saver.  The city of Caserta, just a short train trip from Naples, is worth it, too, just to see La Reggia di Caserta, a French palace and its gardens and grounds, and you’ll most likely pass Caserta as you return to Rome, especially if you go by car.

Florence isn’t far by train, and, while it might be shameful to spend only an afternoon in the city, it is definitely worth it. If you can spare it, try to head on over to Siena.  Siena and Florence were fierce rivals throughout history, but the art and culture that came from these two bastions in Tuscany are worthy of the time and expense!

If your trip is longer than two weeks…

…consider spending the weekends outside of Rome, perhaps taking the train to Venice or flying down to Palermo!  If you want to do some shopping, head up to Milano.  While a trip to Sicily is definitely worth doing on its own, if you have several weekends to spend in the city, hitting Palermo or Catania can be a great way to experience the island which has some amazing food and restaurants, great shopping and sometimes better weather than the mainland, especially in the fall and spring.

pictured: an alley way in Viterbo, Italy

I wrote for mTrip’s blog about the piazzas of Rome and how they can save you time on your trip to Rome.  Head on over and check it out — I explain how hitting some of the major piazzas can eliminate backtracking and help you coordinate your exploration of the city!

image: public domain, Il Campidoglio and la Cordonata, Rome

The church boasts the remains of Saint Catherine da Siena (except for her head which is in the Church of San Domenica, Siena) as well as those of the Renaissance artist, Fra Angelico, and Pope Paul IV and two Medici popes, Leo X and Clement VII.  Also worth a visit is Michelangelo’s Christ the Redeemer, a marble statue located to the left of the main altar.  The highlight of this church, though, from an artistic standpoint, is Filippino Lippi’s frescoes in the Carafa Chapel.  Completed in 1493, the frescoes of St. Thomas are the most intriguing, depicting him confounding the heretics.  It should be no surprise that this church, then, was chosen to be the location for Galileo’s trial.

Outside the church in the piazza is a sculpture of Gian Lorenzo Bernini — an elephant carrying an obelisk that serves as a symbol for the reign of Pope Alexander VII (pictured left).  It is humorously known as Il Pulcino di Minerva (“Minerva’s chick”).  The obelisk part of the sculpture is Egyptian, brought to Rome during the reign of Domitian and one of the shortest of the obelisks in Rome. The statue bears the inscription “a strong mind is needed to support a solid knowledge” – perhaps a warning to heretics who sought to challenge the church’s authority!

How to reach the church:

There’s no metro line nearby — the closest is either Colosseo or Fontana di Trevi/Barberini and walking. Several bus lines pass nearby: C3, 40, 46, 62, 63, 64, 70, 81,  87, 116, 119, 492, 628.  I suggest walking through Rome to make the most of your trip.

For more information:

This web site has some excellent photographs of the church (interior and exterior).  National Geographic’s city guide to Rome has an excellent description of the church (pp. 134-135, 3rd edition).  Giancarlo Palmerio and Gabriella Villetti’s Storia edilizia di S. Maria sopra Minerva in Roma, 1275-1870 published by Viella in 1989 is an excellent resource on the history of the church.  Wikipedia and Wikimedia Commons both have photos and excellent summaries of the church.

*photos used here were listed as being
in the public domain at the time of publication

The one pictured is known as the Flaminio and was brought to  Rome by the Emperor Augustus in 10 BC to commemorate his victory of the Egyptians.  Egypt then became a province of the Roman empire, with Egypt providing much of Rome’s grain and tax revenue.  The obelisk was found many centuries later in the Circus Maximum (1587), and Pope Sixtus V ordered it put back together and placed in the Piazza del Popolo where it stands today.  The lions that surround the obelisk were added in the early nineteenth century.

Special ships were constructed (known as “obelisk ships” to haul these heavy structures from Egypt to Rome, and obelisks continued to be fashioned in Egypt, even during Egypt’s Roman period, as well as in Italy.  Not much evidence remains of these ships, but there are writings which allude to them.  It is also believed that the Emperor Claudius sunk one of the large ships to create a man-made harbor at Ostia, Rome’s port city.  These large ships probably required huge amounts of manpower to push these immense stone structures from the banks of the Nile and across the sea to Rome!

In ancient Egypt, obelisks were dedications to the sun god and were of often located in pairs near temples to the sun god, Ra.  The ancient Romans probably used the obelisks with similar intentions, combining religious motives with political ones (Augustus used the obelisk to symbolize his dominion over Ancient Egypt — having defeated his rivals Antony and Cleopatr — while sending a message to the peoples of Ancient Egypt that he, too, was a descendant of the pharaohs and a god, too).  Pope Sixtus V most likely borrowed from Augustus the idea of using the obelisk for religious and political purposes as he sought to revitalize Rome’s urban landscape!

The temple has served as an inspiration to other architects over the centuries from Hadrian all the way to the Renaissance with its circular plan being adopted for many churches. This temple, like many in Rome, was converted by the Catholic church, but it ceased to be used so and was restored (but it should be noted that the temple survived most probably because of its use as a church).

This building is unique not only because of its circular plan based on a Greek design but also because it is considered one of the oldest marble (and still standing) structures in Rome, having been constructed later second century BC (consider that the Colosseum was built between in the 1st century AD).

Definitely a must see on any trip to Rome!