Knowing Rome

Seeing before going (2) -- RomePhotoBlog

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Mon, 25 Jan 2010 16:43:00 +0000

Recently, I blogged about this photographer who is based in Rome (visit his site). I just enjoy his photography because when I see his photos, it feels like I am actually walking through the street of Rome and also because he has taken photos of a great many things that I have yet to see.

This blog, RomePhotoBlog, has a different kind of take on photography -- a set of photographs that seek to capture the character and personality of Rome. The photographer is Jessica Stewart, who has been in Rome some years now. Many of her photos are whimsical, capricious...even comical in some respects. She captures a Rome that a casual tourist might not see or even want to see. For those of you who have been to Rome many times, you might appreciate more the way in which her "eye" works and how the most mundane of images can communicate so much. Some of her photos also have a level of detail that you might miss in your own walks and jaunts through the city, as she spots certain details and then "enlarges" them in a way that give them a greater presence and voice. Her photos have a way of bringing you into her world, and you almost feel a part of her experience living in the Eternal City. There is a definitely sense of vicariousness in her work that is sometimes too compelling (even attractive) to ignore.

Pay her blog and visit. You can also find her blog on Facebook.

Centrale Montemartini

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Sun, 24 Jan 2010 17:57:00 +0000

When I tell someone that I've been to Rome over fifteen times and even lived there, they seem suprised when they find out that there are actually museums, sites and places that I have never visited. I tell them not to be surprised since one could spend a lifetime in Rome and still not see everything -- there really is that much to see.

One place in particular that always seems to escape my radar (which is surprising given that I must have walked by the place a dozen times on my last trip to Rome and didn't even realize it!) is Centrale Montemartini, an extension of the Capitoline Museum located on Via Ostiense 106. This museum, originally a temporary exhibition while restorations and renovations took place at the Capitoline Museum, is now a permanent museum. It contains many of the leftover archeological finds that just don't fit into the Capitoline Museum due to space constraints.

What makes this space so unique, as I am finding out, is the juxtaposition between ancient art and the industrial setting in which the pieces are housed. The building, a former power station, is now a strange combination of ancient sculpture and art set against a backdrop of industrial design. I hope that on my next trip to Rome that I will be able to spend some time at this museum.

The museum is located between the metro stops for Basilica di San Paolo fuori le mura and Piramide. If you're in other parts of Rome, hop on the "B" line for the Metro and walk along Via Ostiense until you see it (I want to say that it can't be that hard to miss, but...well, considering that I missed it...). You could even get off at Garbatella and cross the pedestrian bridge from the station, but this area can be confusing to navigate as there aren't many signs to direct you. Alternatively, you could take various bus routes (23, 271, 769, 770) or simply walk. I find Rome to be a very walkable city, and, if you have the time (and stamina!), why not enjoy the sights and sounds.

Tickets cost 4.50 euro, but there are various ticket combinations that can be purchased. To read more about that, check out the museum's web page which is easy to understand and very informative.

photo (top): Facade of Centrale Montemartini, image released to the public domain
photo (bottom): View of the entrance to the museum, courtesy of Andrea Giovagnoli

Seeing before going -- a photo gallery of Rome

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Fri, 08 Jan 2010 16:26:00 +0000

Before heading to a new place, I always think that it's important to familiarize yourself with landmarks, especially if you're the type that gets lost easily (like myself). While getting lost and finding your way can be fun, if your vacation is only a few days, who wants to spend a majority of the time trying to figure out where you are. Sure, if you're in a place for a few weeks, it's not a problem, but when time is your enemy, and you have limited time to do the things you want to do, being a little prepared can make your trip more enjoyable.

Besides studying maps, a great way to learn about your destination is through photography. A few years ago, I stumbled across a web site called Panoramio, where I discovered this photographer. He takes some really fantastic shots of Rome and some of his photos can be found in Panoramio. I like how he captures the monuments, sites and places of Rome in such a way that it feels like you are almost there. Now he has a budding web site of his photography, so if you've been to Rome or are soon heading there, check out his site for some spectacular shots of the Eternal City.

(I also enjoy photography...check out my Flickr Photostream for more photos of Rome and Italy)

Leonardo's "St. John the Baptist" at the Palazzo Venezia

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Sat, 02 Jan 2010 17:36:00 +0000

On exhibit in Rome until the end of January is Leonardo's Saint John the Baptist, on loan from the Louvre in Paris. If you're in Rome, swing on by the Palazzo Venezia and have a look at this exquisite work of art. The painting is part of a larger exhibition, entitled Il Potere e la Grazia. I Santi Patroni d´Europa (Power and Grace: Patron Saints of Europe).

Leonardo painted and finished so few paintings, and that when there's an opportunity to see some of his work, you should jump at the chance! If you've ever been to Paris, you know that getting into the Louvre and seeing all you want to see can be difficult to do. Now you can see this superb work of art in a less crowded setting.

This exhibit is free. The Palazzo Venezia is open Tuesday to Sunday from 8:30 AM to 7:30 PM, and it is closed Mondays. It is pretty easy to find and reach and is located at Via del Plebiscito, 118 in Rome. -Map It With Google Maps-

You can read more about the exhibit here from La Repubblica:
http://roma.repubblica.it/dettaglio/il-san-giovanni-battista-di-leonardo-in-mostra-a-palazzo-venezia/1818696

photo credit: work of art depicted in this image and the reproduction thereof are in the public domain worldwide. The reproduction is part of a collection of reproductions compiled by The Yorck Project. The compilation copyright is held by Zenodot Verlagsgesellschaft mbH and licensed under the GNU Free Documentation License.

Caravaggio at the Scuderie del Quirinale

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Mon, 14 Dec 2009 16:03:00 +0000

If you're heading to Rome in the coming months, you might think that Rome has nothing to offer during the colder winter months of January - March. At the Scuderie del Quirinale starting in February, there will be an exhibition of the works of Caravaggio. I blogged about Caravaggio last year and even created a map of his works in Rome that makes a great walking tour.

From February 18 to June 13, 30 of Caravaggio's works will be on display at the Scuderie del Quirinale. If you're heading to Rome in the coming weeks, there's also an exhibition about the paintings of Ancient Rome entitled Roma : la pittura di un impero.

The Scuderie del Quirinale is located at Via XXIV Maggio 16. It can be reached by bus or metro -- my advice would be to take either Metro A or B and get off at Piazza della Repubblica or Cavour, respectively and walk. If you prefer the bus, the bus routes 16, 170, 36, 360, 37, 38, 40, 60, 61, 62, 64, 70 or H all stop nearby. If you're at Termini Station, take bus 40 (Piazza Pia/Castel S. Angelo).

The Scuderie is open seven days a week. From Sunday through Thursday it opens at 10:00 am and closes at 8:00 PM. Fridays and Saturdays, they remain opened until 10:30 PM. Remember that ticket offices generally close an hour before the museum (so don't expect to pop in for 30 minutes before it closes -- they won't let you in!). During Christmas Eve and New Years Eve the museum closes at 2:00 PM. Christmas Day and New Year's Day, the museum opens at 4:00 and closes at 10:30 PM.

Tour guides are available but require booking, especially if you prefer a language other than Italian. Tickets are 10 euro. Check out the Scuderie's web site for information on discounts and other reductions.

Photo Highlight: Piazza della Repubblica

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Fri, 11 Dec 2009 17:07:00 +0000

Also known as Piazza Esedra because of the nearby exedra from the Baths of Diocletian, the Piazza della Repubblica, in and of itself, is quite unremarkable. However, it is often the start of demonstrations and protests, probably because of its prime location in Rome which allows protestors and demonstrators easy access -- with a metro stop nearby, within walking distance of Termini Station (one of Rome's largest train stations -- also the one that you are mostly like to arrive at if coming from the airport or if arriving by bus). Demonstrations tend to snake up towards the Piazza del Popolo allowing demonstrators and protestors to make a huge impact on the traffic and public transport of the city.

The famous, Basilica Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri, which is located in the piazza, was fashioned from the tepidarium of the Baths of Diocletian. It's probably the only reason why many tourists even visit this particular section of Rome since it's so easy to reach via metro or on foot. The Basilica is well worth a visit and, like the Pantheon, has a similarly fashioned domed ceiling and oculus.

The immense fountain that sits in the center of the piazza is quite impressive. Known as Fountain of the Naiads, the original chalk sculptures were replaced in 1901 with the ones we see today by Mario Rutelli, the great-grandfather of Rome's former mayor, Francesco Rutelli. The porticos that lie opposite the basilica are also remarkable and worth a snap or two.

The Turkish Embassy is also located in this piazza, and it is often the place where foreign dignitaries are met upon arriving in Rome. The Hotel Exedra, one of Rome's most expensive hotels with rooms starting at over 300 euro, also flanks the piazza.

Photo Highlight: Ancient Rome

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 20:53:00 +0000

In the southwest corner of Rome entro le mura (within the walls), there stands the Roman Forum, the Colosseum and dozens and dozens of other countless sites and monuments that have stood the test of time, having been built before the birth of Christ and are testaments and memorials to Rome's ancient civilization. This is my favorite part of Rome! The best time to photograph this part of Rome is in the early summer when the light is right, but the best to visit and walk through the grounds and parks is in the late fall and early winter when the crowds are somewhat lighter.

This part of Rome is my least favorite in the sense that it is the least Roman part of the city -- it's full of tourists and restaurants and business that cater only to tourists. It's not the best place to head if you want to explore modern Rome, but if you have an interest in history, antiquity and archaeology like me, then you probably care little that it is so touristy. There are dozens of museums, parks, sites and other things to see and do there, and, like the Louvre in Paris, you just can't see everything in one day, however, in a day, you can see and do a lot!

So if you only have a day to explore the ancient part of Rome, what is a must -- I'd say the Colosseum, Trajan's Market, Roman Forum and its surroundings, Arches of Titus and Constantine, Trajan's Column, and the Capitoline Museum (which contains many artifacts that were uncovered in the various forums) and then finish your day by visiting the Ara Pacis Museum (which is south of the Piazza del Popolo) and then having a late lunch or early dinner at Il Gusto.

Get up early, start your walking and sight-seeing around 9:00am and don't stop 'til you drop! :)

New updated strike listing!

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Wed, 14 Oct 2009 18:35:00 +0000

I've updated the list of transport strikes, located in the sidebar on the left hand side of the screen.

The list goes all the way through to the end of November. Take note of the strike in Rome on November 23 that begins at 10:00 AM and includes a huge gathering of workers who plan to march through the city. Expect traffic disruptions and congestion on public transport so please plan your day accordingly. Strikes in Rome tend to be peaceful with very little violence, but they can include vast numbers of people which can disrupt public transport and city services due to the huge influx of participants.

Nasoni di Roma

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Wed, 14 Oct 2009 13:59:00 +0000

Un nasone is slang for those small water fountains, also known as a fontanelle -- as seen in the picture here which, if you've ever been to Rome, you've probably seen them everywhere and wondered if it was safe to drink from them.

Today on Repubblica.it's Rome Edition web site, there's a super sweet Google Map that shows all the locations of the free, clean and drinkable water in and around Rome. If you're heading to Rome, you can safely and freely drink from these fountains. Bring with you from home one of those environmentally friendly metal bottles that are all the rage now and do your best to avoid purchasing bottled water -- plastic water bottles are the scourge of Rome, and you tend to see more of them on the ground than in the trash cans. I find the water from these fountains to be slightly metallic tasting and a bit flat, but it's free, it's good for the environment, and it keeps those plastic bottles off the streets.

Repubblica.it isn't the only entity to create such a map -- there's also a pretty decent one that you can find here.

The new ATAC web site

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Sun, 04 Oct 2009 23:55:00 +0000

ATAC has updated their web site -- ATAC is the organization responsible for managing Rome's transportation needs. Unfortunately, the site is mainly in Italian. Hopefully they will make more of their pages in English. If you have a question about Rome or getting around, they are pretty responsive to emails (and phone calls, too).

Everything you ever wanted to know about getting your VAT refund in Italy

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Wed, 30 Sep 2009 17:58:00 +0000

Head over to Italylogue (WhyGo ITALY) and read Jessica's latest post on getting your VAT refund in Italy -- she expertly explains all the "in's and out's" so if you plan to spend, spend, spend and shop 'til you drop, then this is definitely a post worth reading. Print it out and take it with you, too!

The link can be found here:
http://www.italylogue.com/planning-a-trip/how-to-get-a-vat-refund-in-italy.html

image: Garbatella, Rome (June 2009)

Photo Highlight: Oculus of the Pantheon

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Tue, 29 Sep 2009 17:26:00 +0000

The oculus and dome of the Pantheon can be one of the most challenging objects to photograph in Rome because:

the crowds in this building can make it difficult to get a steady and clear shot
the light does not always accommodate

I took several shots of the dome and oculus, and I think that my photos came out OK, although a friend of mine said that they looked "fake" because of the way the light reflects.

It's a pity that the bronze stars that once lined the recesses of the dome were to have housed bronze stars that presumably would have "lit up" when they were hit by the modest sources of light that would enter through the roof and front entrance of the church, almost certainly meant "to reproduce" the heavens. The bronze stars were melted down and used in construction the Castel Sant'Angelo. Statues of the Roman pantheon (gods) were also kept inside but presumably they were either melted down (if made of bronze) or canibalized for their marble. Bronze was a "hot commodity" during ancient times and well into the Renaissance and Baroque.

The currently church/basilica that we see today is not the "original" Pantheon but one of several that was rebuilt during ancient times. The one that we know of today is a remnant of the second century AD, probably conceived/built by the architects of emperor Trajan but finished during the reign of Hadrian.

The church houses the remains of Raphael, Annibale Carracci, the composer Arcangelo Corelli, and the architect Baldassare Peruzzi (designer of the Villa Farnesina). The Italian Kings, Vittorio Emmanuele II and Umberto I, are also buried there.

If you wish to learn more about this monument, check out the Wikipedia article.

The Pantheon is pretty easy to find and is well indicated in Rome (just follow the signs that direct you to all the famous monuments/sites in the city that are common in the city center). It is located along Via della Rotonda.

ItalyGuides.it

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Sat, 19 Sep 2009 23:03:00 +0000

It's amazing what one can do with a podcast these days -- with an mp3 player (like an Ipod or any other brand), you can easily carry with you audio tours of your favorite places that you can listen to as you visit various monuments -- or even listen to the tour before you go.

That's why I want to give a shout out to this site, Italyguides.it, which features free audio guides to several important monuments and locations in Rome. There's also an interactive guide designed specifically for Iphones as an App for the Vatican as well as an mp3 audio tour that you can purchase from Itunes as well as several other online locations. If you plan to visit other cities in Italy, such as Venice, Naples, Pisa, etc., they also have some audioguides for those locales, too.

The site also includes virtual panoramas of various places in and around Rome but also around Italy, too! Their site is definitely worth exploring, and I've been playing with their web site for a few hours now and keep finding really cool photos, tools, videos and images!

If you have an Apple TV box, you can even download and watch in hi-def some movies of Italy that they've created. I don't have an Apple TV so I couldn't test it out but would be interested in seeing how it is - if anyone has the necessary hardware, try it out and leave a comment!

Tours and podcasts can be downloaded from their site and/or purchased from Itunes, eMusic, Amazon and a few other locations. Check out their web site for more details.

Maps of Ancient Rome Along Via dei Fori Imperiali

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Tue, 15 Sep 2009 10:00:00 +0000

A reader contacted me recently to ask if I had any photos of four marble and bronze maps that lined a stone wall along Via dei Fori Imperiali in Rome. That stone wall is the exterior wall of the Basilica of Maxentius, and the road used to be called the Via dell'Impero.

It took me a few moments to remember, but I knew of the maps that he spoke of. Unfortunately, I didn't have any of my own photos to display, but I did find some sources for him. Our email exchange prompted me to write this post.

It should be noted that these maps are not remants of ancient times. They've been conveniently and conspicuously placed there and are a remnant of Fascist Italy and a product of Mussolini's attempt to return the Roman Empire to its former glory. What better way to use propaganda than by placing maps of Rome's expanding empire on one of the most symbolically important streets in Rome and by constructing those maps of marble and inscribing the maps with the Latin place names.

The four maps chronicle the extent of the Roman Empire through various phases. In the map pictured above, you see the Roman Empire as it was during the reign of Trajan, a very prosperous time for Ancient Rome. The other three maps show the extent of the Roman Empire at its beginnings at the 8th century BC, the borders of Rome after the Punic Wars (146 BC), the extent of the empire at the death of Augustus (AD 14). It's fitting that Mussolini chose these four maps and stops with the Trajan, whose reign features the largest amount of territory. After the reign of Trajan, one can see Rome's "decline" as territory becomes more difficult to hold.

A fifth map existed but was taken down after the fall of Mussolini and depicted not the extent of Italy's boundaries but highlighted Italy's conquest of N. Africa and the Horn of Africa as well as its aspirations of conquering Turkey, the Middle East and plunging deeper into Africa (notice that points north of Italy, such as France, Britain and Scandinavia don't appear to be "targets" which were prized by the Germans). This fifth map was damaged and presumed destroyed until it was found some years ago. Plans were made to repair the map and place it back on display in EUR, but those plans as of yet have failed to materialize.

Many historians and researchers see these maps as simply Mussolini following in the footsteps of his ancestors: Sulla, Julius Caesar, Pompey the Great, Augustus -- the list goes on and on of dictators and emperors who used architecture, sculpture and public art to convey their message and values. These maps, placed along Mussolini's carefully crafted thoroughfare (Via dell'Impero/Via dei Fori Imperiali) which linked the glory and splendor of ancient Rome with the modern seat of Rome's power, conveyed a very important message to all that the grandeur of Rome had returned.

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Photo Highlight: Piramide (Pyramid of Cestius)

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Sun, 13 Sep 2009 00:23:00 +0000

Nothing surprises, fascinates and enthralls first time visitors to Rome more than seeing a pyramid in Rome! People always ask me, Is that a pyramid in Rome? Is that reallly in Rome?

You betcha!

The pyramid, known as the Pyramid of Cestius, is small when compared to its Gizan cousins in Egypt but it's quite big when you get up to it. It is located at the Piramide metro stop near the Porta San Paolo. There's a lot to see in this part of Rome: Testaccio, Protestant Cemetery, Baths of Caracalla, Parco della Resistenza dell'Otto Settembre among other things.

The inside of the pyramid housed a frescoed burial chamber. According to sources, the frescoes can no longer be made out but were recorded by the Italian engraver, Pietro Santi Bartoli, and whatever might have been in that chamber was plundered by grave robbers in antiquity and beyond. Visitors are no longer permitted to enter.

The tomb is that of Gaius Cestius Epulo, who might have possibly served in the Roman's Egyptian campaigns. According to the inscriptions, it took just less than a year to build this pyramid. As you can probably deduce, it probably cost a lot of denarii to build this huge pyramid, and Gaius Cestius Epulo definitely had money.

The Wikipedia article on the Pyramid of Cestius is quite good and is worth a read.

Tell your friends...

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Wed, 09 Sep 2009 16:02:00 +0000

It's no surprise that Berlusconi's government dislikes the show, Annozero, because it gives a voice to many of Berlusconi's critics. Television stations in Italy are refusing (or perhaps, it's better to say that they are unable) to air television commercials that are annoucing the return of this wonderful program.

Anyone interested in Italian language and culture would do well to watch this program. I watch it as often as I can (online), and I find that it can be a wonderful source of entertainment as well as practicing and improving your Italian comprehension.

Here's an email I received (as I'm sure thousands of others) -- check out the spots (adverts for the show's return) and read the email I received below:

Buongiorno Keith,

Cari amici, sono Michele Santoro e ho bisogno del vostro aiuto. Mancano pochi giorni alla partenza e la televisione continua a non informare il ...pubblico sulla data d'inizio di Annozero. Perciò vi chiedo di inviare a tutti i vostri amici e contatti su Internet gli spot che abbiamo preparato a questo scopo e che non vengono trasmessi.

Qui trovate i nostri spot

Su Youtube:

Primo spot: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8e-HvwOhmjE

Secondo spot: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_kJRHdrLfWI

Su Rai.tv:

http://www.rai.tv/dl/RaiTV/programmi/media/ContentItem-616d28e5-f635-4e1f-a3d9-e153752d2e91.html?p=0

E come sempre il nostro sito

http://www.annozero.rai.it/

Using your mobile phone overseas

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Mon, 31 Aug 2009 00:19:00 +0000

A recent CNN article made me smile as it coincided with my post on Brightroam that hit my blog recently.

I would encourage anyone looking to save money on their cell phone bill while traveling to read this article written by Christopher Elliot, the ombudsman for National Geographic Magazine, that was republished on CNN.com on Friday, April 28, 2009. He really hits the nail on the head and brings to light some issues that travelers face when they try to use their US-based mobile phones outside the country. Mr. Elliot highlights some problems faced by travelers - for example, one gentleman whose wife went abroad and made $8000 worth of calls and text messages. It's important to know that just because your phone works in Italy, it doesn't mean it's the best and most affordable way to make calls. Who wants to come back from an awesome vacation only to find that their checking account has been sapped dry?

Read the article - he gives some great suggestions for keeping costs down.

My take on this: Check out his suggestions, specifically numbers 3 and 4 -- swapping out your SIM card for a card native to where you're visiting or using VoIP, such as Skype. In Italy though it might be difficult to find free wifi, especially if you're outside the larger cities.

Before you travel overseas, buy a prepaid Sim card and save up to 90% on your cell phone calls abroad.

Photo Highlight: Naming the streets of Rome

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Fri, 28 Aug 2009 01:46:00 +0000

Many of Rome's streets are named after famous historical figures - in the photo above you see Via Antonino Pio named after one of Rome's most celebrated emperors: Antoninus Pius. Antoninus Pius was probably one of Rome's most peaceful emperors and is most noted for having very little military experience and avoiding most things military.

During his twenty five year reign (the longest since Augustus), Antoninus Pius helped to have his predecessor, Hadrian, deified (something which the Roman Senate refused to do) and is considered one of the "Five Good Emperors" (the others being Trajan, Hadrian, Marcus Aurelius, and Commodus). Antoninus Pius's 23 year reign was a quiet one militarily, although he spent much on improving the Roman Empire's cultural and educational institutions: building temples, theaters and forums, bestowing awards on philosophers and educators, and improving and promoting the arts and sciences and even saving many Senators that Hadrian had wanted put to death. Soon after his death, a column (much like Trajan's column) was erected in his honor (only the base survives today and is housed in the Vatican Museum).

Eating Out In Rome

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Tue, 18 Aug 2009 21:47:00 +0000

I always shy away from recommending places to eat in Rome because, in general, everyone has their own specific tastes, likes and dislikes. But there are two places that I want to recommend that I tried during my most recent trip to the Eternal City - if you get to try them for yourself, please leave a comment on the blog and let me know what you thought of my suggestions.

'Gusto http://www.gusto.it

This restaurant group has five different locales, each of which is unique in its own right. The only one that I visited was the ristorante and pizzeria -- during the day, around lunch time, they have an excellent Italian buffet lunch which is also quite reasonable in price. You can sit inside or out (I recommend indoors, especially during those hot days, plus there's a lot of traffic in that area, most of it pedestrian and the occasional bus or car). The food was delicious, and they have something for all tastes. If you're a vegetarian, they have a huge selection of vegetarian dishes to sample, and this might be a good place to eat. I think that finding decent places for lunch can be one of the most difficult in Rome, but this place serves up really great food.

The restaurant (map) is located at Piazza Augusto Imperatore 9 in Rome (+39 063226273).
Il Pentagrappolo http://www.ilpentagrappolo.com

Whenever I go to Rome with friends who are unaccustomed to the Italian "feeding schedule" (Italians tend to eat later than Americans), they are always complaining about how hungry they get between 5:00 and 6:00 PM. I always chuckle, but it can take some getting used to. Instead of diving in with the rest of the tourist crowd or eating two dinners, do what Italians do and relax with a glass of wine, a beer, an aperitif, and something to nibble on - such as a cheese plate or a plate of various Italian meats. The best place for this is a wine bar (many of which double as restaurants, so if you get comfortable and don't want to search for another place, have dinner there, too!). Il Pentagrappolo is a great wine bar that is relaxing and comfortable. I found it to be slightly on the expensive side (four glasses of wine, a cheese plate and a plate of meats was almost $50), but it was well worth it because the staff was exceptionally nice, helpful and attentive. On some nights they have music and someone playing the piano, but it's equally relaxing to grab a table with some friends, sip wine and talk about the day's events! They have a great selection of wines to choose from - if you're not sure what to try, the staff is more than willing to lend a hand.

Il Pentagrappolo is closed Mondays as well as Saturday and Sunday afternoons.¹ It is located at Via Celimontana 21/B (00184) in Rome (map).

¹I just want to point out that it can be frustrating to find places to lunch on the weekends, especially on a Sunday afternoon. Unless you're in a location laden with tourists, you might have trouble finding a decent place to lunch on a Saturday afternoon. If you're staying in a hotel or hostel, check with the concierge or staff on a recommendation on a place to lunch. If you have your own apartment with a kitchen or have access to kitchen facilities, this might be a good time to take a break and cook a meal for yourself.

Service Review: Brightroam

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Mon, 17 Aug 2009 16:00:00 +0000

Most of the time when I travel to Italy, I never even think about having a cell phone with me. I go on vacation, and my cell phone just reminds me of being home and having to deal with work calls and voicemail. But if you are heading to Italy with friends or have friends there, having a phone can be indispensable -- especially if you are trying to coordinate a night out or track down a friend. Nothing is worse than sitting around in your hotel room or at your hostel waiting for the phone to ring. Italians can almost be fanatical about their phones (some have two or three!), and it's a good way to fit in with your Italian friends because they know that they can get in touch with you easily. That will make reconnecting with people you meet much easier!

This past trip instead of using international roaming with my own cell phone carrier, I decided to try out Brightroam, a company that specializes in providing Sim cards and telephones for international travelers. The great thing about this company is that the phone is not a rental, and, if your phone is already capable of working in Europe, all you need to do is just pop in the new Sim card for whichever country you are traveling too, and you're good to go. They also offer a service whereby you can forward calls from your normal cell phone, home phone or office phone all to your Brightroam number - that way you can avoid having to check multiple voicemails or carry around more than one phone. Also, it will avoid friends and family having to keep track of your international cell phone number - they can just dial you direct and get you directly at your new number while you're overseas!

The rates, I found, were much cheaper using Brightroam than using international roaming with my home carrier. I tend to use text messages more often than not, and it cost me only 29 cents per message sent - you don't pay to receive calls or text messages. I also didn't have to worry about recharging my minutes - they simply bill you at the end of each month. If you don't want a bill, they give you the option of purchasing phone credits, too. During my month in Italy, I spent less than $50 on text messages and phone calls, and I never missed a night out with friends and had the peace of mind knowing that if someone went wrong back home, that my friends and family could get in touch with me. The best thing is that you only pay for the calls and texts that you send and never for the calls and texts that you receive!

If your current cell phone is locked to your carrier and won't accept another SIM card, Brightroam sells inexpensive phones. I purchased a basic Nokia 3120 that doesn't have a lot of the bells and whistles that many modern phones do, but it served its purpose for text messaging and telephone calls. You could even just buy the SIM card and hunt for an unlocked tri-band phone on Ebay. The possibilities are endless.

Check out their site - perhaps it will be as useful to you as it was for me.

NB: I didn't use the forward phone call feature, but I've heard good things about it. Contact Brightroam directly if you want to know more about it. Also, this review was unsolicited - I was not paid for my opinions. Any opinions expressed are solely mine. Your experiences with Brightroam may differ from mine.

Photo Highlight: Villa Adriana (Hadrian's Villa) at Tivoli

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Sat, 15 Aug 2009 12:24:00 +0000

Villa Adriana at Tivoli is definitely a place to go if you want to escape from Rome for the day, or even a half a day. Located just east of Rome, Tivoli is not a difficult place to reach. There's also the Villa d'Este, a beautiful Renaissance garden that is also worth a stroll. Villa Adriana and the archaeological park that surrounds it is pretty enormous, so you'll need at least a half day there. The stroll through the park is quite pleasant, and there's also a wonderful museum that contains many artifacts that were recovered on the grounds. Entrance to the museum is free and is included in your ticket.

Villa Adriana is also a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Tourist information (ticket prices, hours of operation, etc.) can be found here.

Too Hot To Trot In Rome?

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Mon, 10 Aug 2009 09:00:00 +0000

There are a lot of travel bloggers out there who write about Rome and Italy. One of my favorite writers who always has some great advice (and can make me laugh) is Jessica Spiegel, who writes for BootsnAll Travel and has a great set of resources at WhyGo Italy. Check out her sites and pages for some great advice on traveling to Italy!

Recently, she wrote a piece entitled "5 Summer Travel Tips for Italy" -- if you're planning on heading to Italy this summer, it's a must read because she gives some pretty pertinent and useful advice. Since I just returned from Italy, I want to expand on one or two points that she mentions in her article about clothing and the heat -- my two cents if you will! :)

I spent just over a month in Italy -- I have to say that it was hot, even for June and early July. If you can't take the heat, you need to understand that in Italy, air conditioning is not as pervasive as it is in other countries. Luckily (or unluckily, as the case may be), I live in a pretty warm climate all year round and that couple with a few years of living in Australia, the heat doesn't usually get to me. For Americans (like myself), this might be problematic. You can be sure of one thing - you're going to be hot, and you're going to sweat. However, you don't have to suffer (too much) for it! You do have to be smart though in how you approach the heat so here's some advice:

When you're "out and about" shuffling to museums or out seeing the sites, don't give a fig about what you're wearing. Dress to be comfortable and dress to stay cool. If you don't plan on going into any churches or religious buildings that day, it's OK to wear those shorts and short-sleeve shirts. In all honesty, I wore shorts a lot when I was out taking photos and being "touristy", and no one ever kicked me out of a church. Women, though, are generally more scrutinized and would do well to carry a shawl or some other piece of clothing to cover your shoulders. In Palermo, for example, at the Cappella Palatina, they were loaning woman coverings for their shoulders, but don't expect this at most churches. Low-cut blouses and tops should generally be avoided, especially if you plan to visit any churches.

Don't be a slave to fashion, at least during the day. While Italians might be able to walk around the streets of Rome in a suit and tie or women dressed in their power suits without seeming to sweat, I doubt that many of us unaccustomed to the weather would fare as well. You're in Rome to enjoy yourself -- it's a vacation. Try to suffer as little as possible! Plus, if you're too hot, you could be putting yourself at risk for heat stroke or dehydration. Dress prudently but keep in mind the need to be conservative at some tourist spots.
Don't forget to wear sunscreen when you're out and about. This is especially true when you go to the beach or if you're wearing tank tops, muscle-T's and other shirts/clothing that reveal a lot of your skin. Baseball caps are considered somewhat gauche in Italy, but, during the day while you're being a tourist, you can relax that the fashion police won't be "arresting" you for your fashion mistakes. Cover your head -- wearing a hat or some kind will certainly keep you cooler. Health and safety first!
Do avoid sandals and flip-flops (thongs). Nothing says "I'm a tourist" more than sandals and flip-flops. The streets of Rome are not the cleanest in the world. The roads and sidewalks in Rome can also be brutal on your feet. Find yourself some decent sneakers or walking shoes that are comfortable on your feet. Wear socks that will help your feet stay cool and allow them to breath. Your feet will thank you for it!
Consider waking up earlier to do some of your sightseeing and save the hotter and warmer afternoon hours for relaxing at your hotel, taking a dip in the pool or doing something to keep from overheating. The early and mid-morning and the later afternoon make for some great times to be outside when the temperature is a bit cooler and easy to handle.
Seek shade or some place cool to rest every 30 minutes or so. You'll certainly notice the difference the shade of a tree makes. Just ask the sheep -- when I took the bus from Palermo to Agrigento, there was a field full of sheep and about 100 of them were crowded and pushing for the shade of this one lone tree standing in the middle of the pasture. A 5-10 minute rest in the shade will leave you noticeably more refreshed and relaxed, and what better way to enjoy that 2 euro bottle of water! :)
Stay hydrated, but don't chug your water. Sip and drink your water slowly. Keep in mind that finding a toilet in Rome might be difficult so don't over do it on the liquids. Pay attention to your body - dehydration can set in quickly. Notice how your body reacts when you're dehydrated since for many people it happens before they even realize it. Also try to avoid drinks that will cause you to get rid of water -- such as coffee, tea, alcohol and even sodas!
Keep some spare change on your at all times since many toilets in Rome are pay toilets -- either the automated ones that clean themselves or others that are monitored by staff. Toilets can generally be found at most train stations in Rome and museums. Larger churches and basilicas generally have facilities. Restaurants, bars and pubs probably do, but generally only allow patrons to use them.
At night when you're going "out on the town", it's best to avoid shorts and beachwear whenever possible. Comfortable, lightweight slacks, a loose shirt and some comfortable shoes will be your best bet. Usually once the sun goes down in Rome, the temperature eases quite a bit (although the humidity doesn't always dissipate). Cool off with a light dinner and some gelato afterward.

During the evening is when it's best to try your best not to look like a tourist -- there's a trend in Rome and many other cities in Italy to charge tourists more. While this is hard to prove, restaurants in Rome have been shut down for shafting its foreign clientele. Dress well and making an effort might help stave off overpriced dinners and drinks.

Photo Highlight: Piazza di Spagna

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Sun, 09 Aug 2009 17:25:00 +0000

Here's a photo from my recent trip to Rome - you can see that the Piazza di Spagna is a popular place to congregate - mostly for tourists, I might add. But it's nice to stop by and see what's going on. This area is better in the evening and after-dark when it's usually less crowded. The fountain is known as Fontana della Barcaccia, designed by Pietro Bernini with the help of his father.

Blog Redesign

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Mon, 03 Aug 2009 00:13:00 +0000

I've been tinkering with the template the past few days!

I'll be re-adding links to other sites in the next few days - please bear with me as I make the blog/site more usable and user friendly.

Sincerley,
Keith

The Currency Question

noreply@blogger.com (Keith) — Mon, 20 Jul 2009 16:29:00 +0000

A reader recently emailed me asking for an opinion on whether it was necessary to purchase euro notes before heading to Italy, and whether I thought it was necessary and prudent.

Personally, I do not purchase currency before my trip as I do not find that it is cost effective or necessary. Generally, a purchase of foreign currency must be done with your credit card. This is considered a cash advance which has a higher interest rate than a normal purchase. You may be able to purchase notes directly from your bank, but this generally will require a lot of lead time, and there are bound to be fees. Some places allow you to do an electronic check, such as EzForex.com (I've never used this site, but after clicking around and doing some research, it looks to be reputable and good pricing, too -- you'll be hard pressed to find a good price on euro notes outside the EU). The money will come directly out of your checking account, and you won't have to worry about paying extra for the cash advance on your credit card.

Also note that while some places may claim that they do not charge a service fee, you will be paying more through the exchange process. For example, the current market value between the US Dollar and the Euro is $1.42 (roughly). If you do some price comparisons, you'll find that many places do not charge a fee, but simply mark-up (or mark-down, depends on how you look at it) the exchange rate.

You might find it more convenient simply to make an ATM withdrawal when you arrive in Italy. I have never had a problem using my ATM card in Italy, but if you bank with a small local bank or a credit union, make sure to call them and ask if your card will work out of the country. Also, many international ATM's only accept four digit pin numbers. If your pin is longer than that, ask whether you need to change your pin. In many instances, if your pin number is more than four digits, you only need to enter the first four digits. Make sure to check with your bank first.

Whether or not you purchase currency before you arrive is a personal choice. If you plan to arrive in Italy very early in the morning or late in the evening, it might be prudent to have some euro notes on hand in case of ATM closures since most banks and some currency exchanges offices may not be open. You could also purchase currency at the airport -- most airports have currency exchange booths, and you could purchase 50 or 100 euro there. I wouldn't purchase too much currency since you will get better rates of exchange with your ATM card at an ATM machine (bancomat).

Take note of ATM fees from your bank. ING Direct, in my opinion, offers to best bang for your buck. They don't charge fees, and you pay only the exchange fees and the 2% surcharge from Mastercard (or Visa) - which is typically cheaper than most fees charged by banks. Most banks charge more to make international withdrawals -- check with your bank before heading on your trip to find out how much each withdrawal might cost you!

Perhaps this is your first time in Italy, and you'll feel more comfortable having some ready cash on hand? I suppose if you are more relaxed and don't want to worry about being stranded without any money, then purchasing some currency will be one less thing to worry about on your vacation!

author's note: Please keep in mind that ideas expressed here are my own opinions. Be sure to check with your bank/credit union/currency provider for specific details on your own transactions.