Within the cosmetic industry alpha arbutin and kojic acid are considered to be two different cosmetic ingredients; however consumers usually misidentify them as interchangeable ingredients, because both claim the same benefit (lightening and brightening skin by inhibiting the production of melanin producing tyrosinase enzymes).  In actuality, these are entirely different ingredients which compliment each other.

Alpha Arbutin was not used much in lightening products prior to 2003, because Kojic Acid was considered a superior ingredient.  However when Japan effectively banned synthetic Kojic Acid in 2003, followed by Korea and Switzerland, skincare manufacturers sought out an alternative ingredient that had similar effects but did not hold the stigma of Kojic Acid, and thus Alpha Arbutin became a natural replacement on cosmetic ingredient labels. Today a number of products include both, including Meloderm skin care as pictured on the right.

Many high end skincare companies continue to use Kojic Acid in their products, under such botanically derived source names as:  Polyporus umbellatus (mushroom) extract.  However, botanically derived equivalents can be very expensive, which means one will most likely only see this ingredient in doctor administered cosmeceuticals products.  Kojic Acid can also be derived from various fungal and plant materials, including: sake (rice), fermented soy, as well as mushrooms (reishi).

Types of Arbutin:

• Arbutin (Beta Arbutin) – primarily derived botanically from bearberry leaves
  • Arctostaphylos UvaUrsi (Bearberry) Extract
  • Aboca Uva Ursi (Bearberry) Leaf
  • Other sources:  blueberry, cranberry and other plant extracts
• Alpha Arbutin (synthetic arbutin, could be more potent than Beta Arbutin depending upon grade, quality, and percentage used in the formula)
• Deoxy Arbutin – Originally developed by P&G though not yet introduced to the marketplace and still awaiting EU and US regulatory approval, but studies have shown great promise for this ingredient.

Finally, due to patenting issues and regulatory restrictions, many skin care companies use arbutin-containing plant extracts (such as bearberry, blueberry, cranberry and other extract) instead of pure arbutin.  It is very hard to determine which is preferred because skincare companies claim percentages and ingredient sources as intellectual property.  This allows them to justify not disclosing to consumers where each ingredient comes from and at what percentage.  It is only a matter of time before they are required to make this information available to the public due to stricter global regulations.

What is melasma?
If you stumbled upon this page through searching, then you are probably all too familiar with this condition. Melasma refers to facial hyperpigmentation which is triggered by the sun.

Who gets melasma?
Anyone can fall victim to this problem, but younger females are the most likely to get it. Also, those with darker skin tones are at increased risk of developing it. Sometimes, contraceptives can disrupt hormone levels, which in turn trigger this condition. Pregnancy can also cause this skin condition.

How to treat melasma?
Obviously you came here to learn about the kojic acid melasma method, but just why is it that so many women choose to use this ingredient? Well, obviously there’s more than one option when it comes to skin whitening, but unfortunately the other popular ingredient (hydroquinone) has been linked with cancer.

Why is kojic acid melasma cream the best choice?
As we already mentioned, there are serious dangers associated with the other popular method. But in addition to that reason, many prefer kojic acid products because the ingredient is natural; it is derived from mushrooms and/or plants. Furthermore, it is extremely affordable and widely available.

What types of kojic acid products are available?
Because this is such a popular ingredient now, there are a wide array of different products available; kojic acid soap, cream, and lotion. Basically, all of these do the same thing since their active ingredient is the same in each. Therefore whether you are using the skin brightening creams or soap, the all have the same skin lightening effect. However when it comes to melasma, many women prefer to use a cream-based version since those are usually the most potent and can be worn discreetly on the face.

How to use kojic acid skin lightener?
Of course this depends on the type of product your using. As you can predict, the soap is typically used in the shower. Meanwhile, the cream and lotion whitening products are applied to the desired locations (how often depends upon the manufacturer’s recommendations).

Now you know why the kojic acid melasma remedy is such a popular choice!

Q: Can you tell me where to buy kojic acid serum and which kind is best? I am having hard time finding it. Thanks!

A: Over the past few years the skin care industry has been shifting away from heavy creams and more towards serums. The benefits of serum based products is they aren’t thick and goopy, which usually means they’re less likely to cause breakouts. Plus, you can sometimes layer products (like a serum as the base and a normal moisturizer above) which makes serums ultra versatile!

Now when it comes to kojic acid serum, unfortunately it’s not all that common, yet. However there are a handful of serums with kojic acid available and it seems that more are trickling onto the market all the time. A few that I know of but have not used personally include:

Devita Skin Care – They have a few skin whitening products on the market and a neck & decollete kojic acid serum as well as a general skin brightening serum with kojic acid.

Reviva Labs – This is a great company based on the East Coast that has a few kojic acid products on the market, unfortunately I would classify them as more cream like rather than a true serum.

Is Clinical Skin Care - They have a product on the market called Hydra-Cool serum which I do not personally like, but I’m sure others may feel differently.

Lancome Absolue – We all know how great Lancome makeup and other Lancome cosmetics are. Well now they have this product out that contains premium ingredients like bio-yam, brown algae, and kojic acid. I saw it at Macy’s and it was quite pricey, but I’m sure you can get it cheaper online.

In addition to these, there are few others too. Not to mention, new kojic acid products are coming out all the time so keep your eyes peeled!

First, here’s a brief summary of each ingredient:

Hydroquinone: This is a skin lightening ingredient that has been in use for decades. It’s known to be extremely powerful and the resulting changes in pigmentation are often permanent to at least some degree.

Kojic Acid: This was discovered over two decades ago by the Japanese. It comes from the natural fermentation of rice and/or mushrooms. It’s known for offering gradual, yet fairly quick results. Usually if its use is discontinued the skin will return to its normal pigmentation.

What are the pros and cons of kojic acid and hydroquinone when used individually?

Kojic Acid Pros:

• It is generally considered to be safe for most people when used as directed
• It is available over-the-counter
• It is known to offer more uniform, consistent results
• The results can often be reversed by discontinuing use
• It’s available in a wide variety of formulations, from kojic acid cream to kojic acid soap

Kojic Acid Cons:

• Although most people don’t encounter any side effects when used as directed, some people suffer from skin irritation (such as dermatitis). There is evidence that suggests this may be permanent, but very few people encounter this and even then it’s usually with long term users.

Hydroquinone Pros:

• It’s an extremely potent skin lightener
• In the United States, concentrations of 2% and below are available without a prescription

Hydroquinone Cons:

• It has been linked to causing cancer in high dosage studies on rodents
• Results can sometimes be patchy and on some people it just makes the pigmentation look albino, rather than simply lighter
• If overused and you don’t like the results, it might not be possible to reverse
• Can cause skin irritation problems

Are combinations of hydroquinone kojic acid a good idea?

As of now, it doesn’t look like it. Each of these are extremely potent, and when combined, they may be dangerous – side effects might be a lot worse than using them separately. And being that they’re both effective by themselves, combining hydroquinone and kojic acid should not be done unless your dermatologist says it’s okay.

Kojic Acid Side Effects
For decades hydroquinone was the most popular skin lightening cream in the world – it worked but also had side effects. There have even been studies which suggest hydroquinone may cause cancer. Thank goodness we have kojic acid, which has not been linked to that same dangerous side effect!

However, there are a few kojic acid side effects you should know about…

Sensitive Skin: This happens to be the most well known side effect of kojic acid. Basically, there has been research which suggests that if kojic acid is used repeatedly for extended periods of time, the user’s skin may develop increased sensitivity which some say might become permanent to some degree. Technically known as dermatitis, this side effect be characterized by increased itchiness, red rash, irritation, etc (similar to poison ivy).

Therefore, obviously if you were to develop these symptoms over time, you should discontinue use and ask a dermatologist about these side effects. That being said, I personally have not heard of anyone experiencing these side effects while using kojic acid products. But even though it’s very rare, it’s still something everyone should know about if they plan on using kojic acid long term.

Other Side Effects: A cosmetic side effect one should consider is whether or not they like their skin being lightened. Although that is what kojic acid products are used for, some people don’t like the results. Fortunately, unlike hydroquinone, with kojic acid treatment your skin will usually revert back to its original tone over time. For more information about potential kojic acid side effects, speak a doctor.

What’s my opinion on the potential side effects?
Whether its food, medicine, or anything else… we all respond differently. So in reality, almost everything has side effects for some people. Kojic acid has been used since its discovery in the eighties with few reporting side effects. It also makes me feel better to know that kojic is derived from mushrooms and the fermentation of rice, so it’s a natural ingredient rather than something artificial. The bottom line is that in my opinion, kojic acid skin lightener is the best option out there.

Q: Will kojic acid help dark circles under eyes?

A: Thanks for your message Emily, and yes, that is an excellent question. Being that this ingredient is so effective at lightening the skin, it only makes sense to use it for dark circles… or does it? Not exactly. Here’s why…

Understanding dark circles
We all know what they look like, but few of us have actually researched what causes dark circles under eyes. Obviously, from an aesthetic perspective, they cause the skin under the eyes to be much darker than normal… usually a purplish-black color. But unlike other pigmentation problems, that’s where the similarities end…

You see dark circles are the result of overprominent blood capillaries under the surface of the skin. Since the skin under the eyes is so thin (and thins out even more as we age) it means that there’s not much covering these capillaries. The result? You literally see the blood under the surface of the skin. This is why kojic acid dark circles treatments make absolutely no sense. The problem is not with your skin’s pigment, but rather with those capillaries underneath the skin.

How to treat dark circles
There are two “plans of attack” that you can use to address the problem:

1. plump up the skin under the eye: As mentioned, the only thing wrong with the skin is that it is too thin. So using topical creams and moisturizers which are known to plump up the skin may not be a bad idea. Personally, my favorite one is hyaluronic acid cream. Why? Because this ingredient is a natural substance already found in your skin (like collagen and elastin) but it serves a unique purpose… hyaluronic acid cream acts as a sponge for water! Reportedly it can soak in up to a thousand times its own weight in water. If you choose to use this type of cream, please only use ones which the manufacturer says are okay to use around the eyes.

2. use eye cream for dark circles: This is by your best bet if you want to really address the problem. The kojic acid dark circles idea won’t help, but vitamin K for dark circles can. That is precisely why these creams use vitamin K, which is a well known ingredient used for a number of circulatory issues. When it is applied topically in the form of a dark circles cream, it is said to help promote and restore these capillaries so they function more normally. Instead of them be backed up and creating that dark color, many users see significant improvement after a few weeks of use. This is why virtually every dark eye circles cream uses it as the main ingredient.

Why Papaya?
There are dozens and dozens of popular fruits, so why are papaya kojic acid soaps all the rage? Well, there’s actually three reasons. First of all, some citrus and fruit extracts are said to help support the skin lightening process. It has been said that the concentrated papaya extract helps to do this. Secondly, papaya includes nourishing ingredients that many say can help your skin look and feel better. Last but not least, kojic acid papaya soap has a very pleasant scent to it. This is extremely important, because you want a soap that will make you smell nice too.

Who Makes Papaya Kojic Acid Soap?
Right now there are appears to be a few companies that are making this product. I did a search and came across a few brands over and over. Apparently, Diana Stalder papaya kojic soap is pretty popolar. I also saw quite a few generics that are probably manufactured by smaller skin care companies. Whoever you buy it from, fortunately this product is very inexpensive from what I have seen.

Papaya Kojic Acid Soap Reviews
Although I personally have not yet used this product yet (I just found out about it too) I decided to look around to see what others are saying about it. I checked forums and blogs for reviews… the average consensus was that this is a great product! Of course because these ingredients are so powerful when combined, a few people complained about irritation on their face when using it. Therefore if you have extreme sensitivity, it may be best to not use kojic acid soap, or to simply use it sparingly.  Fortunately all kojic acid skin lightener products use the same ingredient, so you don’t have to confine yourself to only the soap if you don’t want to.

Q: Does it make sense to use kojic acid for acne?

A: Well, that depends on where you live and what type of acne you have. In the United States, kojic acid acne treatments don’t really exist – rather it’s primarly sold for lightening purposes. It’s also only sold as a beauty product (therefore its effectiveness has not been officially evaluated or endorsed by the FDA).

So you should understand that it is really something that should be researched further before deciding one way or another. However I decided to scout out the web to see what others are saying about kojic acid for acne and whether or not it’s any help.

What the forums are saying…
I visited one board about acne and read some mixed reviews. One person mentioned she had an allergic reaction while using kojic acid for acne, so she had to discontinue treatment. Meanwhile another person said it’s helpful as an acne scar removal product. Rather than using the cream based products, some say they have had success using kojic acid soap, such as likas papaya soap which contain what some call a kojic acid acne remedy . Reportedly, it may help to cleanse the pores and therefore could potentially be helpful for some types of acne.

What’s my personal opinion…
Personally, I feel there just isn’t enough evidence out there to support kojic acid for acne as a truly effective solution that’s safe for long term use. That being said, using kojic acid products to diminish scars has been done safely now for quite some time and with great results. Although it’s up in the air about whether it’s the best way to treat acne, one thing is for sure, and that is it’s one of the most effective acne scar remedies that we know of to date. So for that reason, I think kojic acid products might be a great addition to your acne regimen.

Q: Which creams with kojic acid are the most popular?

A: First of all, thanks for your question. Well, actually, that depends on what part of the world you live. There are all kinds of creams with kojic acid sold globally. A brand which is popular in the United States may not be sold in Europe and vice-versa. Since I live in the U.S., I will talk about some of the kojic acid creams I know to be popular here…

Kinerase Skin Care Products
Kinerase is a very well known high-end brand and they have a number of kojic acid products in their line. They make great cream but the only drawback is they can be a bit pricey, so this is only for those who want (and are willing to pay for) the best of the best.

PCA Skin
This is also an excellent brand and fortunately it doesn’t cost too much. They make a number of products that contain kojic acid as a primary ingredient. The other added benefit is they make these in cream, gel, and serum forms… so you have a wide variety of options. Unfortunately I haven’t had a chance to try them yet but I do know they are one of the hottest selling brands in this arena so they’re definitely worth checking out.

SkinCeuticals Skin Care
This is yet another top selling brand for creams with kojic acid. They have several products that use strong concentrations of kojic. One of them that I see sold online frequently is the SkinCeuticals Phyto.

DDF Skin Care
What I particularly like about their product line is that they also offer cleansers which contain kojic acid, in addition to their serums, creams and gel formulations. They also make a very unique cream with kojic acid that is design specifically for underneath the eyes. It contains vitamin K and other ingredients which are powerful anti-aging fighters.

Dr. Michelle Copeland Skin Care
I actually don’t know a lot about this brand, but she seems to have a skin lightening treatments on the market that also use kojic acid.

So the above are several different brands of creams with kojic acid in them. To get the maximum benefit, I always recommend you go with one that is designed to treat multiple problems at once. That way you won’t have to apply multiple creams – saving you time and money. Fortunately all of the above kojic acid products are designed to do that.

Q: Is kojic acid safe?

Kojic acid has been around since 1989, when it was actually discovered by accident during the production of certain foods, most notably the koji mushrooms. Not only were its skin whitening properties noticed, but also the fact that it’s a great antibacterial agent and preservative.

Controversial or Not?
Skin bleaching and/or lightening is considered an controversial issue by some people, so it comes as no surprise that kojic acid came under attack. However the truth is that most people who use it are doing so for 100% completely valid medical and cosmetic reasons; i.e. dark spots, melasma, hyperpigmentation, uneven skin tone, minor overall facial lightening, etc. There are actually very few people whom truly abuse so-called skin bleaching.

Kojic Acid Safety?
The Scientific Committee on Consumer Products (the European regulatory body) has conducted extensive studies of kojic acid products. Reportedly, they found that kojic acid is not a cancer causing agent (unlike hydroquinone) so that’s a big relief for many. However there were concerns that using it regularly might increase skin sensitivity, and hence, that’s a drawback (because increased sensitivity might possibly lead to allergic skin reactions). So is kojic acid safe? Well in a nutshell, that side effect appears to be the safety exception.

Using It?
Personally, there’s not many effective options when it comes to skin whitening. It’s basically kojic acid or hydroquinone. As with most things in life, further studies are always needed to know for sure. But if allergic skin reactions end up being the worse thing kojic acid will do to a person, then I would choose this option over the other any day. To help you avoid that, it’s always a good idea to ask a professional for advice (i.e. dermatologist) and follow the directions (you shouldn’t use more than the directions tell you to).

So is kojic acid safe? Ultimately, that’s something you will have to decide. On a personal note, I do feel safe using kojic acid skin lightener and think it’s my product of choice.