Kristina in Korea

Homecomings 1 & 2

2011-09-10T16:55:00.000-05:00

So, I've been back in the States now for three weeks and change, and it is incredible to me now that I ever left. It's almost like I have been in an 8-month haze, just getting by. That sounds a bit harsh I think, as I review that sentence, but that is just my perspective 6000 miles away from that experience.

Not that I'm disconnected from SK! I have been making a concerted effort to integrate all that went on there into my present life. The hard thing about that is that my present life - with all its social excitement, its professional busy-ness, and its noisy English everywhere - can be very distracting. I walk around still feeling overstimulated, and I have no idea when I'll feel comfortable with my calendar or my general pace of life again. Believe me, I had no idea how much I was always moving. :)

There is also lingering work stuff. I am sorry to say that my Army boss can't seem to let me go, and is apparently defaming me and my professional work to people there whenever he gets the chance. That's something I will have to take care of. I also committed to regularly “see” (Skype is a wonderful thing, isn't it?!) people, and managing those connections makes me happy. And the connections I made to my friends in SK are still very strong. I quite frequently find myself saying something that only Cadena or Jessica would think is funny, and I miss commiserating over silly military or Korean stuff.

What I have had time to do in the last three weeks is see family and friends:) My first welcome home occurred in New York, and it was so wonderful to be with happy and healthy colleagues again! My second homecoming was a big family food fest (or “just a small party” as we call it:) ), where I was able to hug everyone I'd been missing for so long. And the week I spent with my parents was pure bliss; I cannot thank them enough for the relaxed everything they gave me during my vacation. My first week back in Chicago met me with much craziness: I started teaching right away (the first of my three classes was 9a on Monday, what?!?), and my Wellspring work began on September 1. In between, I was out a lot, and I think I found here all the wine I was searching for in Daegu:)

And my traveling days are not done, I have decided...I just can't see other countries as easily (my Passport needs a rest anyway...actually, a replacement:) ). But I did hit New York City over Labor Day, to see my cousin, to watch some tennis, and to fall in love with that city all over again. I'm learning I can still have adventures, relatively easily, even being home. That flight credit is also motivating me to see my own country!

I move into my new place at the end of this week, and my stuff arrives on/about the 17^th (I'm hoping for earlier...fingers crossed for me, please!), and maybe then I can fall into a regular routine and get back to “normal” life. Will it ever be truly “normal” again for me? I don't know. SK has changed me, but I guess that's true for all my experiences – not only of the past 2 years, but everything that comes along seems to fill me with awe and provide an opportunity for change in some way. It will be an interesting life from here on I think. I'm just so very glad I had SK and everything that came before it to open my eyes to all of that.

I have one more homecoming, this Saturday, thrown by my BFF, officially welcoming me back to Chicago. I cannot wait to see everyone – either for the first time since arriving back in the States or since last week:). I plan to post some pics here and maybe a funny story or two from it, but then I think this blog will come to a close. Obviously, I'm no longer “in Korea”, but I also feel that it's time for this chapter of my life to end. Several people have suggested I keep blogging, and I find that flattering and also intriguing:) If I decide to, I'll link this to that, so that people can understand better how I view the world and my place in it.

For now, thanks for reading. Thanks for being interested in this little part of my life. Thanks for your comments and your support and your laughs at my expense:)

Here's to adventure, no matter how you find it! (Please picture me toasting you with a huge glass of wine!)

Kristina

A perspective on my last misadventures in Korea...

2011-08-19T05:56:00.000-05:00

Hey everyone (and by "everyone" I'm pretty sure I mean "mom and dad")!

My friend/roomie/travel buddy, Cadena, also blogs her time in SK. She just posted some fun pics and observations on my last days, so if you'd like to check them out, go take a look at My So Called Life. She has done a ton of stuff on the peninsula, too, so check out her other posts as well. She's a photographer so her pics are awesome! And she's the only person I'll ever willingly let take pics of me with food...mostly bc I didn't have a choice. :)

PS. Apparently, in my last week, I wore that dress OUT!:)

More later on my ever-interesting transition back to A-murr-ica!

Trying to get it together (PS #1)

2011-08-15T14:32:00.000-05:00

Ultimately, this post - and really, these days, my entire life - is full of gratitude. Forgive what snarkiness may come out, as I adjust to jetlag and dive straight into work:)

So, we made it! Furgie and I survived an I-don't-know-how-many-hour-bc-my-mind-can't-wrap-around-the-dateline-issue trip, and arrived into the welcoming arms of Homecoming #1: WNY! Namely, the lovely Kim Atwater...thank you for not only picking us up at the airport, but putting up with my slight slurring of words pre-Starbucks infusion, and my worry over getting my cat out of her carrier. Furgie did beautifully overall, and only cried once during the L-O-N-G descent into ATL.

Speaking of ATL...seriously, folks, I believe this is where flights go to die. EVERY flight appeared delayed to me as I wandered the crowded terminals. Also, there is no Starbucks in Terminal C - beware!!! There IS, however, a spa, and since my layover looked delayed from 3.5 to 5 hours (gah!), I decided to treat myself. A facial and a pedicure later, with added head, neck and arm and shoulders massage, I was pretty happy for the delay! And for this, I thank ATL for forward thinking, know they are the busiest and most delayed airport in the nation. I also thank Cadena, because really, if we hadn't spent that layover in Shanghai, I wouldn't have even thought about doing anything other than sitting at my gate:)

So, now that I'm firmly ensconced on American soil and happily already working at Wellspring, I cannot think of a better place to be "immersed" back into culture - a small community in which the scenery and the people are familiar, the work is enjoyable, the people are all happy to be here and also motivated to do well. Being here, it almost feels like I never left.

I AM seeing/sensing things differently already, even within all the familiar. It's like I'm on high alert, hearing everything, all conversations, all background noise, because my ears have been trained to search it out for the last 8 months. I have the urge to say "thank you" and "hello" in Hangul, and I have found myself pre-sentence stopping and correcting. I have also been automatically trying to convert dollars to dollars, and time zones, and laughing at myself because that makes no sense, in the end. Its really incredible how habits form so quickly, and are sometimes unbreakable even when you change contexts. Another example: I have no idea when I'll stop handing things to people with two hands, or with one hand on my elbow, the other holding the object such as a credit card. That one may be the toughest to break!

And of course I'm missing friends! It's funny, but I didn't realize how many I'd made until I made the effort to get together with each of them my last week! But that's always the way it goes, for me and for anyone. So I am determined to make the effort to spend as much time as possible with friends now that I'm home, to make up for lost time and to not regret missing out in the future:)

More later on adjusting:)

Until then, I miss you, friends from Daegu:)

Farewell, Korea

2011-08-12T18:01:00.001-05:00

I started this blog just 8 months ago, and it seems strange to end it now. I've loved having the outlet for thoughts, feelings, internal and external struggles, and the connection with people - even if it was ever only my family and some friends:) I'll miss it as well as having regular adventures in this crazy country (and I mean that in the best possible way!).

I know I've already waxed thankful for being here (see Okinawa blog), but over the last two weeks I have felt a tremendous amount of gratitude for the people I've met here and as well as this place. Korea allowed me perspective, not only on myself but on the world. It gave me opportunity to explore the literal "other side" of the globe and taste, see, smell (and what a smell!) different things. It introduced me to some exceptional people who dedicate their lives to their country, or to adventure. And I couldn't be happier that I took advantage of this opportunity at this point in my life.

I think transitioning will be a bit difficult or even odd at times. I've been thinking about how my mind is going to handle constant stimulation - just think, it's been free to focus on other things because there isn't the constant hum of a language I can understand in the background, or the ticker of words to read on signs or buildings as I pass. I also think my new perspective on the world might change how I interact with people - not only will I speak slower at first, I think, just to sort out the constant din in my head, I'll talk about the world differently because I've seen it from the other side - and I wonder how that's going to affect me in my everyday. It should be interesting, to say the least, and I hope you all won't mind a few last entries here to tell how my move-back is going!

For now, again, I'm too busy saying goodbye to friends to worry too much about what all is going to happen once I'm back on American soil. And I thank Korea for such an adventure. If I can make it through all of this, I feel like I can really enjoy my new life back home now, without reserve or (too much) worry.

I am going to miss this...

2011-08-11T20:26:00.000-05:00

Because everyone needs a daily laugh...I just happen to get mine in my Inbox every day!

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Being a direct entry into force of the dough and fresh breeze of fresh noodle dishes - seafood cocktail neutralized directly from the best. \ 8,500 \ 5500 (35.0%)

[Surprise 34] Emporio Armani Underwear
With the best quality and premium image of sexy underwear that offer \ 52,000 \ 29,900 (43.0%)

[Surprise 13] Nix 22 kinds of shoes
Ages, from students to professionals impassioning Knicks meet attractive than those palsaekjogateun. \ 43,000 \ 14,000 (67.0%)

Things to do in Daegu

2011-08-06T07:20:00.000-05:00

So, the DMZ tours are fully booked the entire month of august, which means, sadly, that that trip will not be my last hoorah in Korea. I will have to settle for Daegu. A daunting a task as that seems, I am not willing to simply sit around my last full weekend on the peninsula! That means Daegu city tour!

A view of downtown Daegu

Not a lot of things to see in this city that seems, increasingly, like the same neighborhood over and over again. But there IS color...

Seoman Market wares: Traditional Korean formal dress. I'm sorry, Katie (my cousin) and other members of my family that requested one after her brilliant (at the time) idea...I can't bring them back! They are custom made, very dainty, and relatively expensive. I will bring you all make-up gifts!

Pretty pillows

...and everyone is getting excited about the upcoming track and field world championships that begin (sadly) shortly after I leave, August 27. The city is peppered with international flags and brightly colored signage like this one:

I have a special place in my heart for this mascot, because he is simply so cute...and who doesn't love runners that are blind? :)

Finally, I did get to take some pictures of my daily walk to work on base. It still surprises me, after 8 months, to walk along barbed wire fencing and Restricted signs, even as overgrown and relatively pretty as they are.

It was another scorcher of a day, hitting an amazing 95% with 75% humidity. Bleck. I can complain only because, in watching the news, I see that most of my own country is suffering a similar heat wave. It's hard to believe it's slated to get even hotter this coming week, my last living here. Wish me luck! I only have about 5 outfits left that weren't carted off by the movers, so here's hoping I left out the coolest ones:)

All packed up and ready to go!

Stuff Korean People Like

2011-08-06T06:01:00.000-05:00

Large mega-apartment complexes that appear to be cities unto themselves
Seen from the ground or the air, these mega-opolises are ubiquitous and impressive; I once updated my status in astonishment, "helipads atop apartment complexes?" The answer was yes. My only question is, with the amenities posh and rent high, are all of them full??

His & Hers matching underwear sets
Apparently, these are all the rage as wedding gifts!

Stuff Korean People Like

2011-08-05T05:06:00.000-05:00

Passive-Aggressiveness

This is what I found in my elevator this morning... I assure you I am (probably) not the neighbor this person refers to!

More Stuff Korean People Like (and now maybe the world?)

2011-08-04T07:08:00.000-05:00

K-POP!

I have been meaning to write a blog about K-pop, as it's (obvs) all the rage here. I have been toying with the idea of buying some songs, reviewing them, then making CDs for people back home. Now that I'm 10 days from departure, I know that my grand plan will never leave the beginning stages, but here's a taste of what is sweeping the nation...and apparently the world, now!

Korean Wave starts lapping on Europe's shores

SEOUL (AFP) – South Korea's pop music industry is eyeing Europe after taking East Asia by storm, with promoters using the power of the Internet to lure distant fans.

K-pop over the past decade has established a devoted fan base in China, Japan and Southeast Asia, with heartthrobs like Rain and boy bands like TVXQ packing out concerts and topping charts.

Exports of music products surged from $6 million in 2002 to $31.3 million in 2009 as the phenomenon known as the Korean Wave (hallyu) spread.

K-pop's overseas success was driven partly by a need to go beyond the home market, plagued by plunging CD sales and free music downloads on the Internet in the world's most wired country.

South Korea's recorded music sales shrank from 286.1 billion won ($272 million) in 2002 to about 80 billion won in 2009. Entertainers searched for new ways to survive -- by courting fans abroad via the Internet.

Now South Korea's digital music market -- including legal music downloads on mobile phones or the Internet -- is worth 600 billion won after a series of court rulings against free music-streaming and downloading sites.
SM Entertainment, the country's biggest music talent agency, in 2009 opened its official channel on YouTube to release new music videos and broadcast concerts and other public appearances by stars.

The company also has hired composers and choreographers in Europe and the United States and recruited teenagers from elsewhere in Asia to appeal more to global audiences.

Two sell-out concerts in June in Paris, featuring SM's flagship groups like SHINee, Super Junior and Girls' Generation, together drew 14,000 screaming fans singing along to Korean-language numbers.

"The response from European fans totally stunned us," said Kim Young-Min, CEO of SM Entertainment. "Now we feel more confident that we can take a plunge in the European market, albeit step by step."

Kim told AFP in an interview that major global music labels believed it was too risky to expose too much content on the Internet due to copyright concerns, "but it actually helped us gain a global fan base so quickly".
He said he hopes to release English-language albums of the agency's stars in Europe and to partner with mobile phone makers like Apple or Nokia to boost digital music sales -- already the biggest source of the firm's revenue.

"In this age when people search for and own music on a single device, it's more effective to collaborate with global mobile platform producers than with record labels to expand our market," said Kim.
"Gone are the days when one singer can sell 100 million CDs. Now what's important is having artists notching up 100 million online downloads for their songs."

K-pop has long been led by bubblegum pop stars hand-picked by talent agencies -- often in their early teens -- and intensively trained for years before they hit the stage.

Agents like SM handle everything from recruitment to music production and largely dictate their artists' styles -- mostly dance tunes from hiphop to electronics -- and career moves.
Critics liken the process to an assembly-line of similar, robot-like teen stars with fleeting popularity, whose every word and move is rigorously pre-scheduled by the agents.

Lawsuits are rife among top teenage stars including those from SM, who accuse agents of imposing excruciating work schedules and sharing earnings unequally.

Kim disputed the criticism, saying his firm must recoup an investment of up to 4.5 billion won to develop raw teen talent.

"It's not like the US, where record labels pick up musicians ready to hit the stage," he said, adding the agency's singers collect more than 60 percent of earnings from commercial endorsements.

Kim admitted that K-pop performers "may look all similar and appear to sing all similar music", but said the firm would usher in other South Korean artists.

"We're just beginning to open a new door, offering what we do best. People who've come to like our music will soon want to listen to other genres like rock and so on," he said.

And here's a YouTube page by said SM Entertainment, for your listening pleasure (or not...actually, it's pretty catchy:) ):

Ah, Korea...

2011-08-04T06:58:00.000-05:00

I am definitely getting reminiscent in my last days living in Korea. I have really enjoyed living abroad, embracing the craziness that is Asia, Korea, government work OCONUS, etc. Here's some of what I'll miss...tempered by some things I won't miss at all, ever (always the Libra!):

Things I will miss
easy travel to nearby, tiny, often exotic other countries
my 4-bedroom apartment with a great view
living among mountains
working a 40-hour week
being able to walk everywhere
water coolers everywhere
small portions at restaurants
being called beautiful by perfect strangers
Engrish
constantly learning - every moment being an experience
automatically smiling at a person on the street because she looks Western - instant camraderie
posing automatically with the peace sign in pictures
the KTX/speedrail in general
enough closet space to fill my entire wardrobe and linens, with space to add!
saying "hello" and "thank you" in 2 languages, one right after the other
being able to have a conversation and know that about half of it won't be understood
the every day opportunity for shooting photos
cheap cabs
tax free goods at the PX and Commissary
being the mysterious foreigner
eavesdropping when I start to hear the one English word in thousands of Hangul
outdoor markets
shopping in categories - all the light stores on one street, all the pet stores on another, food, clothing, cellphones....
car art
shopping at 11pm because everything is still open

Things I won't miss
the smell of methane wafting up from sewers everywhere - quite the way to start a morning
missing my rich social life back home
working in substance abuse
working a 40-hour week...for an asshole
being able to walk everywhere...but not wanting to walk anywhere!
monsoon season (it's a killer!)
it being difficult to be a vegetarian
the staring
not being able to communicate at my education level (to hair stylists, to coworkers, to my cleaning woman, my movers, on public transit, etcetcetc)
constantly learning - it's exhausting!
being yelled at "Hello!!!!" by little kids trying to practice their English (or being asked "Where are you from?" and then having the conversation end right there.)
the military and civil servants
people taking off their shoes in restaurants...having to take my shoes off when I totally forgot to wear socks or easy-off shoes
saying "hello" and "thank you" in 2 languages, one right after the other
the rudeness of the Korean people - they can be so sweet when they know you, but they can be so harsh automatically when they don't
people being afraid of my cat when they see her
bureaucratic nonsense
not being able to order takeout other than pizza or chicken (and only from one restaurant, aptly named BBQ Pizza)

I am sure there's more.

I keep telling people Korea is great, come visit the country, see the beauty, stay in Seoul or at the beach in Busan, and enjoy a tech'd-out country that welcomes foreigners and has big goals to be a player in the big world. It is an amazing place, and I'm so happy to have had the chance to experience it, in spite of the crazy! It was all good crazy, anyway.

OKINAWA: Not exactly Japanese for "last hurrah", but we can pretend...

2011-08-01T07:05:00.000-05:00

Okinawa...

Boats in a small harbor

...tropical island in the midst of the Sea of China...

...southerly vacation destination of mainland Chinese...

...birthplace of a fantastic person (Ms. Cadena herself!)...

...last hurrah for two travel-crazy friends and my last out-of-country trip before flying home!

I have always had a thing for palm trees

And was it ever some relaxing trip!!! First of all, I want to announce/apologize that this blog post will, in a sense, double as my application for a photography position at Travel + Leisure Magazine. Not that I'm that talented, but it was just TOO EASY to take great pictures of fabulous sights on the island. (Side note: if you think the pics are crap, move on to another blog, please:) ).

Ahhhhh....

Second, I want to admit that this is actually a relatively difficult blog entry to write, simply because the trip was so fabulously relaxing.

An Okinawan beach with concrete "jacks" for typhoons

We drove,

Cadena mans the wheel on the right side...she's the only one with the int'l license...must work on that!

we saw sand and secret beaches (thanks, Martha!) and pokey islands out in the water,

Tide was out

we basked in sunshine, and dipped our toes in bath-like water,

Tide pools

we took photos (obvs!),

Martha taking pictures

we ate sushi (YAY!!!!) (we also ate too many power bars and too much trail mix, but budget-eating is not the stuff of T+L, so I will not go into detail here!),

I didn't take pics of the best sushi ever, so here's the closest thing I "pic'd" of food...an empty crab shell

we read books (I personally started 4 on this trip - Adult ADD?? perhaps...),

We also read lots of Engrish:)

we spent time with good/new friends,

Martha and Cadena over the menu at Jacapo's

we explored the crazy-biggest base I have ever seen (and spent a little money in their BX, not gonna lie),

The sea wall

we drank coffee and walked and explored on our own schedules,

Look at the cream in my coffee!

we visited the end of the island, with all its jutting, rocky cliffs and bellowing surf, at sunset,

At the edge

and I, personally, felt the utmost gratitude for so many things. After a tumultuous year, I was able to stand on the end of a country, look up at the pinky-blue sky and thank God for my life, for its crazy-adventurous tilt-a-whirl of a year, for its opportunity and for its adversity and its pleasure in the little things. It was an epiphany, self-actualization, and the end of a transition all wrapped up in one perfect sunset. And even on the verge of another move and the start of something else, I was able to look back on the last 7.5 months and feel joy in them.

For that, I thank you, Okinawa - a place I may never have visited but for living in South Korea with a good friend who just had to get there this year (Happy Birthday, again:) ), and my healthy sense of adventure, of course.

Life is good at the beach!

Here's the full album - I warn you, lots of sand and water pics!:)

Today's (Tiny) Trauma

2011-07-26T10:29:00.001-05:00

And I was just saying to people how EASY my move-back to Chicago was going...

Today, reality hit me in a seemingly-minor but emotionally-major way. Basically, I was scheduled to fly out August 14 on China Eastern and Continental airlines, with short layovers in a couple cities. While attempting to finalize my reservations and let them know I would be bringing my cute fuzzy with me, I discovered those companies do NOT allow animals in-cabin AT ALL. What the...? If you're an animal owner who travels, you've heard the horror stories of cargo travel for pets. I went into full-on fix-it mode.

So, I was scrambling after hearing that news, as it was not my experience from my flight here. By "scrambling", however, I mean "sitting on the phone for 6 hours of my day waiting to talk to someone who eventually failed me." First, the process of registering her on each flight (Daegu to Shanghai, Shanghai to Newark, Newark to Albany) was getting really complicated - I found out, after registering on the cargo website, that I would have to hire someone outside of the airline AND the cargo company in order to get my paperwork together just for Continental. I couldn't even REACH China Eastern, as no one was answering the two numbers I had for them. And the price of all this just kept increasing with each call. I was looking at spending a) the money to get her a hardsides case with all their requirements and have my parents ship it here because they don't have them ANYWHERE in Daegu, b) the time I would have to spend either running around looking for a hardsides here AND/OR on the phone in order to arrange all this, and c) the expense to put her in CARGO, let alone d) the stress of two international flights without her, worrying that she was uncomfortable, hungry, tired, hating me, or worse: crushed!

And then it happened: I was on the phone toward the end of my day with a lovely operator from Expedia (thank you, Fiona!), and I started crying. Not just the tearing up kind of crying, either, but the I-cant-talk-I'm-so-embarrassed-but-I-can't-respond-because-I'm-so-frustrated-AND-crying kind of crying. She was very sweet, and tried to empathize, saying things like, "Please don't cry" and "She's your baby, isn't she?" But it didn't help. We finally had to get off the line while she called Continental on my behalf. Wow, I was a mess.

Ultimately, I simply canceled my first flight, decided to use the credit for travel around the States (Dana, I'm talking to YOU), and booked a different flight with Korean Air. THEN I booked Furgie on Korean Air, making sure via telephone that she could, indeed, ride by my side for a little extra cost. I only talk about the money, however, in order to emphasize the fact that she is TOTALLY WORTH all the effort!!!!

Being the lovable cuddle ball she is, I think she knew I was stressed, as she has been by my side, nuzzling, or just sitting near me all evening. And she has gotten tons of love and TONS of treats for being so sweet.

All's well that ends well, I guess! I am much happier, and I know Furgie will be on travel day. I arrive hours earlier at Wellspring New York, which will be wonderful (can I put in my request for bison sloppy joes now??) I still get to say I've never flown into one of the big NYC airports - a strange distinction, I know:) And a BIG thank you to everyone who sent well-wishes in response to my FB distress call. I so appreciate the love!

Stuff Korean People Like

2011-07-24T05:49:00.000-05:00

Inspired by one of my personal favorite webpages of all time, I am adding this regular segment to my blog. Enjoy!

1. KIMCHI
Ubiquitous, smelly, and famed for its dietary properties (questionable, as all claims made by Asian peoples are questionable [see also "world's tallest buddha" and "world's longest wall seen from space" posts...ok, one of those IS true}, kimchi is a Korean staple. And the people - they LOVE it! There are about 4 billion different kinds of kimchi, all served in tiny little dishes before a meal. I have only tried about 8, but I couldn't tell the difference between any of them.

2. LADY UMBRELLAS
When in Korea (and other Asian countries), bring a smallish umbrella, preferably in pastel shades, maybe even some lace around the edging, to shade yourself from the sun and preserve your whitest skin possible. Tanning is not big here, and I've even seen some men attempting to block out the nasty sun's rays using their European men's leather carry-alls.

3. SAMSUNG

The home company of everything electronica, the Korean muse seems to rise and fall with the stock prices of this corporate conglomerate. A great many Korean families are way over their heads in debt these days, and technology is one suspected culprit!

4. BLACK PEOPLE

The stereotype is true: Asians think Black people are an oddity. Now, take it to heart that they also think I am an oddity, but still, they're not lining up to touch me or take pictures with me (well, now that I think about it, they kind of do...anyway...). But I have seen great crowds gather around black friends and fellow tourists, just to get a snapshot with them.

It's also been said that Koreans sometimes try to wipe the dirt off, but I have never seen this and that is most likely something that happened many, many years ago. I have seen some distrust in Korean faces when I walk with a black friend (but then again, you see that in the States, too!), but nothing so overt as cleaning behavior. Overall, I think Koreans simply see a photo op and take it!!

THAILAND!!!

2011-07-20T10:26:00.000-05:00

Another weekend, another adventure...and with the number of my weekends quickly counting down, I feel I have to make the most of each of them. Thankfully, Thailand was the place to do so!

I have to start out saying that this was my first non-organized-tour trip. I'm usually not one for group tours, but the tourism and travel office here has been super handy in obtaining things like travel visas and cheap airfare. But it was time - probably overdue - to venture out on my own with a travel buddy and have an adventure!

So, here are my suggestions of the BEST To Do's if you ever find yourself in the former Kingdom of Siam - Enjoy!:

1. First stop: Bangkok!
Bangkok is the capitol of Thailand, and the seat of the King, currently Rama IX. There are modern and old parts, and I highly recommend staying and touring around the Old City. It has something like 50 gajillion Wats (temples), the Grand Palace, gardens, monuments, a fort, a river, cruise boats and water taxis, and is easily walkable throughout. The modern city is much like any dirty, old city in the States, and is nothing to write home about; but you can actually feel the age of Old Bangkok. We stayed in a cheap little hotel along one of the canals, and were able to walk or take a short ride to anything we wanted to see.

2. Ride a Tuk-Tuk...but be prepared to argue!
Tuk-tuks are basically a scooter with a small flatbed in the back, rigged up to carry 2-4 people (but we saw many more crammed in them!) for short distances. For a mere 20 bhat, we hired a driver for 3 hours to take us to several Wats and statues. The arguing comes in when the driver insists on taking you to sites such as a jewelry factory or a tourist office, where he gets a kickback or a gas discount just for showing up with people; another common argument is when he tries to charge you double at the end of your time with him, saying that his rate was "for 1 person, and you are 2!" Just laugh it off and chalk it up to part of the experience...but don't pay more than your stated agreement. All the guidebooks recommend to agree on an amount beforehand, and you absolutely should...but also be prepared for them to change it at the end of the day.

3. Visit as many Wats as possible
There are so many wats in Old Bangkok that, after awhile, they may appear to be all the same. However, they are not, so perk yourself up with some good Thai coffee (the absolute BEST on this continent, I swear!) and keep going, because there will be something - like a sitting or standing Buddha, or the "tallest" Buddha, or the "only" emerald or black Buddha in this hemisphere - in each one you see. And be astounded at the shear number of them, because they can be around every corner. Thailand, after all, is a theocracy, and you will see people turning with hands pressed together anywhere near a Wat, taking a brief moment to pay respect to the deity close by. The Thai people are a very good example of making some time for spirituality in the every day.

4. Buy auspicious bracelets
They are sold at Wats and monasteries, and are usually made of metal or semi-precious stones. Buy one for your friend, and lovely people at home. They bring good luck and blessings, and Lord knows we could all use those!

5. Travel with a good friend
Preferably one who's flexible and understanding, for when you screw up things like, say, your flight home... (more on that later)

6. Don't purchase or wear funny pants
You will see them everywhere, often hidden in the most unremarkable places, like a market stand selling fine crafts; you will see them on hippies and 50-year-old tourists from LA alike; you will see them at train stations and in subways and in tuk-tuks, but you will NEVER see them on a native Thai. They are funny-pants, and range from palazzos with elephants and bright prints to gauzy wide-legs with an indescribable and baffling third leg down the middle (supposedly, the crotch?). My friend Cadena calls them dookie pants, because they kind of hang like that. They are hideous...and still, they start to grow on you after about 3 days. Something about the patterns, I think, that are hypnotic. But resist, dear friends, because there is no where on this Earth that they are appropriate, and your friends and other tourists will just laugh at you behind your back:)

7. Go over your budget at Night Markets
People may head to China for all the wares, but Chiang Mai is where it's at for handcrafts and homemade goods that are impressive - and impressively inexpensive. You ALL are getting gifts, so yay for Thailand! There is everything from food to clothes to art to paper goods to Buddhist paraphernalia to little bits of culture. It is astounding, and all sorts of a cultural learning experience. And, luckily, there are plenty of ATMs nearby.

8. Get out of Bangkok and do something fun, like riding elephants! (I.e, don't screw up your plane tickets)
So, yeah, about that bit on the tickets...we're sitting at dinner on our first night in Chiang Mai, and we're reviewing our itineraries so that we can plan elephant riding and possible ziplining with gibbons or head-sticking-in tiger mouths - you know, that old chestnut. And I look at our flight leaving Chiang Mai, and it is about 11 hours AFTER our flight home from Bangkok! OH NO, because that's not the correct direction of travel!! So, instead of riding elephants, we headed to the airport to try to get on another flight...not the easiest task, considering it was a holiday (see below also), but we were so blessed the entire trip, it happened relatively quickly and painlessly.

However, I have seen many people's pictures with elephants, and it looks amazing. I highly recommend it!

9. Go for a night drive to see the Wats glisten
It rained our last night in Bangkok, so we hailed a taxi and drove to a night market after dinner. There is so much gold and filigree and gems adorning the Wats, they shine and sparkle in the moon- and streetlights. It is amazingly blissful, and much like being in a giant jewelry store.

10. Wear easy-off shoes
I recommend flip flops, and no additional straps or buckles, etc. Take my work for it, I shoe-failed for our first visit to a Wat, and ended up heading back to change into a pair I could just throw off quickly. It was worth it, and you spend 75% of your time shoeless, gaping in awe at the beauty of temples and stupas and gold and silver everywhere.

11. Pray to Buddha
Whatever religion you do or do not adhere to, you will feel a light and prevailing spiritual presence throughout the old city of Bangkok. Go with it, and praise Buddha in some Wat or at some chedi in whatever way you wish. It will feel wonderful, and you'll be that much closer to whomever your higher power may be.

Thailand is a theocracy, with the King as head of the religion. People frequently pause to place hands together and bow, and you'll look around to find a small worship space. You'll eventually, after a few days, pick up the habit yourself. It's contagious, and fun:)

12. Eat lots of good food
Also pervasive is the smell and presence of deliciousness. Be it street food or restaurant fre, you'll be able to find something tasty. I suggest something with coconut milk. Or Indian. Or Middle Eastern. Or, what the hell, THAI. Perhaps it's because I've lived in Korea too long, but everything - including the eggs at breakfast - was "the best thing I've put in my mouth in MONTHS!"

13. Be prepared to SWEAT!
The guidebooks say the best time to visit Thailand is ANY TIME BUT SUMMER. So, July is steamy hot, and incredibly humid. I think I will wrinkle 3 years later from spending just 4 days there. There were times when I was simply standing there, and would feel sweat dripping down the back of my leg. That doesn't usually happen when I RUN 8 MILES, so it was different. You get used to feeling disgusting and wet, and o just go with it after about 1 day.

14. Take things slowly (you don't really have much choice about this!)
Thailand isn't an island, but it certainly runs on Island time, a much slower clock than Korea (which is already slower than the US). We waited for an hour for dinner one night, and that was pretty common. So just go with the expectation that you need 2 hours for any meal after breakfast. And then enjoy the leisure time. Bring a book, drink more than you would...you're on vacation!

15. Just happen to arrive on an unpublished-in-the-guidebooks but very popular-among-the-locals holiday, where everyone will wish you well and give you many blessings!
Once again, me and my travel buddy just happen into a festival on an important holiday. This time, the holiday was the weekend celebrating the monk's entrance into a three month seclusion period. Lots of celebrations at Wats, lots of food being donated to the monks, then back to the public (see free lunch pics in slideshow!), and much good cheer. The people are very proud of their holiday and their temples, and are very giving and welcoming. It was a great time, and I highly recommend stumbling into celebrations that include praise, parades, fireworks, and a King's caravan.

Obvs, Thailand was incredible, I loved it, and I'm looking forward to going back someday!

Shanghai!

2011-07-20T01:39:00.006-05:00

An 8-hour layover in Shanghai leaves plenty of time for exploration for our intrepid travelers, Cadena and Kristina. See their album of adventures as they search for the REAL China...and find at least hints of the old Shanghai !

:)

Before I Get Off the CHINA Kick....And Because Bloggers Don't Exist in China

2011-07-14T02:48:00.000-05:00

According to the BBC and other media outlets, China is an enemy of free information. In retelling my own travels there, I remembered that what I experienced was probably not the REAL China - of folklore, of deep rooted love of country, of rice fields and workers and The Party. I saw the tourist's version, with tall buildings and the shopping mecca where you can get anything for any price, if you're willing to haggle (and haggle we DID!).

So, because I have a LONG layover in Shanghai on my way to Thailand this weekend (THAILAND!!!), my friend and I are going to attempt to visit the REAL China. I believe it'll be hard to find, as it certainly isn't listed prominently in the guide books, or on tourism blogs. Here is a hint of why:

(reposted from BBC.com)
An extensive web filtering system, dubbed the "Great Firewall of China", is one of the "most technologically-advanced in existence", according to Reporters Without Borders (RSF). It blocks tens of thousands of sites using URL filtering and keyword censoring.

Thousands of cyber-police watch the web. Internet cafes are closely monitored. Filtering targets material deemed politically and socially sensitive. Blocked resources include Facebook, Twitter, and human rights sites. RSF lists China as an "enemy of the internet" (2010). The CPJ ranks it as one of the "10 worst countries to be a blogger" (2009).

Here's a list of the media outlets in China:

The press

Renmin Ribao (People's Daily) - Communist Party daily, web pages in English
Zhongguo Qingnian Bao (China Youth Daily) - state-run, linked to Communist Youth League
China Daily - state-run, English-language
Jiefangjun Bao - People's Liberation Army daily, web pages in English
Zhongguo Jingji Shibao (China Economic Times) - state-run, daily
Fazhi Ribao (Legal Daily) - state-run
Gongren Ribao (Workers' Daily) - state-run
Nongmin Ribao (Farmers' Daily) - state-run, agricultural and rural issues
Nanfang Ribao (Southern Daily) - Communist Party daily, Guangdong province

Television

Chinese Central TV (CCTV) - state-run national broadcaster, networks include English-language CCTV News

Radio

China National Radio - state-run
China Radio International - state-run external broadcaster, programmes in more than 40 languages, notably to Taiwan and Korea

News agency

Xinhua (New China News Agency) - state-run, web pages in English

Wish us luck! We'll keep you posted...because clearly, no one in China really can.

Thank You Notes

2011-07-10T18:31:00.000-05:00

[cue cheesy elevator music]

Thank you, North Korean terrorists, for shutting down the power on Camp Henry today. Your timing - in hitting my building just when I arrive at work - could not have been less convenient. Bravo, North Korea, bravo...

Thank you, Admin o' mine, who is usually so on top of dates, times, and my schedule, for humiliating me in front of soldiers who came to attend a class today. Way to totally go back on supporting the change of dates that we fought about two weeks ago, and make me look confused...

Thank you, punk Korean kid walking to school with your friends, for screaming "HI!!!!" to me across the parking lot multiple times, until you got my attention. As if my white skin, curly hair and substantial chest did not make me stand out enough in your society. I only responded "hello" to get you to shut up, but what I really wanted to do was a) punch you and/or b) tell you that kind of behavior is terribly rude...

Thank you, bacterial infection from China, for making me think you were gone, only to ravage my insides this morning in vengeance for my complacency. Well played...

With love,
Kristina

It has been raining for days...

2011-07-09T21:29:00.000-05:00

I guess I've only been home from China (CHINA!!!) for a few days, but it has rained on each of them, for a majority of the time, and yesterday all day - a steady, continuous downpour, peppered with thunder and lightning. For the past two days, I have been greeted by a white line and nothing but clouds instead of my mountain. I miss Apsan when it is not there, and I will miss this view when I leave Korea for good.

And there it is once again - I've referred to leaving in a very passive, throw-away kind of manner. But it's time to let everyone know what my parents have been hoping for for weeks...I'm coming home! (cue song...sing it to me, Sean!)

I have talked briefly about a chauvinistic boss (all true) and health problems (resolving, hopefully), but I've stopped short in discussing home- and work-sickness. This blog has mostly been about adventure and embracing the craziness of life on the other side of the world. I chose not to discuss the sadness or the longing, because a) that's what my journal is for! and b) there has been relatively little of it, because I've been making a concerted effort to get over it:) I came to Korea for space and time, a sort of self-imposed exile to clear my head after devastating personal upheaval, and to try something completely new - new country, new colleagues, new work. I can admit that it was an effort to escape; not you, my friends or family, but an environment that was both oppressing and depressing. I left not knowing for how long or where I was headed after Korea.

All this time and space - and travel, of course! - have given me great perspective on the things that are important to me. And I have found the most important thing of all (and PLEASE don't be offended, Mom and Dad!!) is my work. I spent the last 6 years amassing a body of research, immersing myself in a public health movement that I believe in, and working with awesome people who find the effort and sleepless nights in pursuit of this work totally and completely worth it. Substance abuse treatment simply cannot fill the void left when I exited Wellspring and teaching. At this point in my life, my career is really all I have, and I know now that I must do what I love with people who love it too, and who appreciate my work.

I have also come to a better understanding of my friends and loved ones, and how much I really want to be close to them. Sure, our careers and families may someday separate us at some point in the future, but I will never again feel I need to isolate myself from the comfort of these things so that I can live independently. I need them too much, and I am no longer afraid to admit that.

Someone asked me recently if I felt this experience was a failure, because I'm leaving so soon. My answer was a definitive "NO!". I have always been a "grass is greener" type of person who needed to experience that the "other" was not really so much better than "this". Had I not come here, I would not have met some amazing people, I wouldn't have known that my work was so important to me, and I would always wonder, "What if Korea....?" Now, I don't have to. For that lesson alone, the trip was worth it. I have commented on Facebook a couple times how much closer I feel to people back home because I moved away, and I am thankful for that. Korea has also allowed me the time to embrace some things about myself that I would have felt tortured over had I remained in Chicago. Time and distance have led to acceptance, and I can deal with all of that stuff better now (but the details I'll keep for my journal, again:) ).

I leave Korea on August 14. Yes, I've already purchased my tickets home:) But there is so much more traveling left to do before then, and I'm determined to fit at least 2 more trips in: Thailand and Japan. And, of course, the DMZ! I booked Thailand yesterday; Japan may be my last hoorah. So please continue to follow my adventures for my last month+...they will be good ones, I promise.

2011-07-07T00:06:00.005-05:00

CHINA!!!!

The Modern China is completely different from what I expected. Actually, I'm not sure what all I expected, but I know that the Beijing that met me off the plane was not entirely it.

Beijing is a beautiful city, with tree-lined streets and the kind of glass-and-concrete architecture rising to the sky that only a seasoned urbanite could love (so, of course, I do). It is also a city of contrasts – Communist yet Capitalist; have yet have-not; bustling but enjoying relaxation in parks and monuments. I guess I had expected something more foreign, and so much familiarity took me aback. Cadena and I had to have long talks while observing the people, places, and their activities, about divergent philosophies and actually seeing Modern Communism play out so much like life back home. It was truly bewildering at times, but also so interesting, and I'm so glad I have a way to share it!

Click here for the full album!

Day 1

We – a group of 45 strong! - land in China in the early afternoon. The rumors about smog are ALL TRUE...it it thick as pea soup, and you can see it in my pictures. Luckily, it does not block out our first propaganda billboards!

We drive into Beijing for a lunch of – what else?? - Peking Duck (among other dishes). Beijing was formerly named Peking, and the name of it's signature delicacy has stuck. It was good, but I don't believe we ate it at a specialty house, which is recommended. And beer, because that pairs so well with duck (can you hear the dripping sarcasm?).

Next, we're off to an evening acrobatics show, China Treasures. The show features death-defying (and I mean that quite literally) feats of high jumping, tumbling, contortion and, oh yes, about 12 girls pyramid-fashion on a bicycle. (Cue Queen!) The theater is patrolled by small, older women with bright green laser pointers preventing too many pictures from being taken, but I did sneak a couple. Two of our group are taken on stage to be part of the show (thankfully, not part of the death-defying parts!).

On to the hotel, to check in. I ask about massages at the hotel, and receive the first joyous surprise of the trip – we're already booked for them the following day. Hoorah!

Day 2

Oh, is there ever a full day planned – The Great Wall, a Jade Factory tour (government required), the Summer Palace, and then the famous Beijing Silk Factory, an indoor market where you can get anything, and bartering is the only language that matters.

First, yes, I did climb The Great Wall, and by climb, I mean near-90-degree-angle hike up uneven and worn stone steps alongside about a bijillion people (answering the question “So, what do you do with 19 million people in 1 city in the summertime?).Did you not know there were high peaks on the Wall? I didn't either. I mean, they run a marathon on the wall, for Pete's sake...just not on this end of it:)

The Wall is massive and impressive. A few times, I had to pinch myself to bring me back to the present moment while climbing it, but I did refrain from buying the “I Climbed...” t-shirt. The view from the near-top was gorgeous and extensive. The bottom area, however, reminded me of Disney World – full of trinket shops and ice cream stands. The somewhat-pushy hawkers of goods (I use the term “somewhat” here only in retrospect; see below re: the Silk Market!) seemed out of place and too Capitalist for such a monument. The first surreal and confusing stop on the tour.

The Wall is also where I was first introduced to the Buddha Belly, a distinctively Chinese phenomenon (I think, so far at least in my Asia travels). It appears that the Chinese male is institutionally required to, in times of extreme heat (shall we say, above 85 degrees), at-will, lift their shirts, exposing their often-sizeable bellies to the world in an effort to cool themselves. Many times, they will also rub said bellies. It is a sight, and one that can shock a Western sensibility if one is not prepared for it!

The Jade Factory was, as noted above, a required stop on our formal tour of Beijing. I am finding this is common in Communist countries, as the government can and will dictate elements of a trip in order to show off it's best side. I experienced the same in Vietnam. But this factory tour was well worth the trip – just look at all the carvings! Amazing. Many of the pieces are carved from one piece of jade. The table set is priced at just over $70K. Let me know if you'd like me to pick one up for you;)

The Summer Palace, now on the outskirts of Beijing (if there is such a thing:) ), is where the Emperor and his Empress would relocate in the heat of the season. Believe me, it was still hot there. But very pretty. We were only there for about an hour, but there was enough to see and experience to fill an entire a day.

After lunch (basically, white rice, as many dishes are fried, drenched in oil, or just plain too weird!), we stop to have traditional Chinese foot massages. An hour long attention to my feet at this point is most welcome, including salt scrub post tea-water bath. My toes, now painted red, are singing!

Next up, the famed Beijing Silk Market. I am not sure how to describe the market, and I have a feeling it's just one of those “you had to be there” experiences. And I hope some day you do experience the raucous, which is the best word I can use for it. Young women calling out, “Hello lady, you want to buy something?” Or “Beautiful, you need shirt? Dress?” “Look at my bags! You need Louis Vuitton? Coach? Look at MY bags.” “I give you good price – friend price.” “You so beautiful, you need my jewelry.” Etc. etc...Some sales women cried, some grabbed hands, arms, other bags, even children in order to get one's attention.

Once you're hooked by them, there is a language of bargaining. If you're not fluent, you're screwed, and will end up paying more than 10% of the amount they initially ask for. It takes patience, and much protesting on either side. My favorite interaction pattern went something like this (multiple times):

Sales: Hey, beautiful lady, you need new bag? I have many bag. Beautiful bag, all real, all leather.

Me: No, no, xiexie (Chinese for thank you)

Sales: Lady, looking is free! [grabs my hand, pulls me into stall]

Me: Hmmm...ooh, this one is nice. How much? [Look at sales with Louis Vuitton in my hand]

Sales: How much you want to pay? (they are actually very fluent in many languages, learned in the trade) [hands me calculator, we agree whether we'll be talking dollars or yuan]

Me: [I type in some ridiculous amount, like $5]

Sales: [Looks at me with disgust] Ooohh, Lady, this is genuine, good quality! I cannot sell for that price. What about this? [Hands me back calculator with equally absurd amount like $500]

Me: Oh my God, oh no, that's too much. That's ok, I don't need it. [I begin to walk away]

Sales: No, Lady, you buy, how much you pay, final offer?

Me: [I type in $10 on calculator] That's my final price.

Sales: Oh, Lady, you kill me. What is your final price?

Me: That IS my final price. I already told you.

Sales: No, lady, you need to pay me good amount. You pretty, you nice, I give you fair price. Friend price. How about this. [Hands me calculator with $250]

We go back and forth like this, getting closer and closer to a middle ground, closer to my $10 than her $250, when I use my trump card: The High Drama Walkaway.

Me: No, no, that's too much. That's ok, but I don't want to pay that price. I'd rather pay $25, but I understand, its ok, but I don't want it. [and that's when I walk away]

Sales: [I get about 5 paces away] Ok, ok, Lady, I give you your price! [shouting, maybe even following me away from her stall].

And SUCCESS!!!

However, after about 5 hours of this, I'm exhausted and starting to feel a bit sorry for the saleswomen, especially as I've now witnessed one crying and the apparent owner of the stall standing over her without pity. Later, I hear that these young women are brought from the West to work the stalls in the market, they work 10-12 hours per day, 7 days a week; no weekends, no holidays, no time to go home to visit family. I have no idea how they work off their indentured servitude, but as there's no one older than, say, mid 20s, there must be some way. But I feel dirty with this knowledge, and need to shake off the grime of the place. Cadena and I go for a walk outside, and I realize that this part of Beijing looks just like Michigan Ave, Chicago, complete with Dolce & Gabbana, Tiffany's, and a China Grill. Surreal moment #557.

Day 3

Tienanmen Square, The Forbidden City, the Olympic Village from 2008, a traditional tea house, and more Silk Market.

Have I mentioned the weather yet? I don't think so, other than to comment on the Buddha Belly phenomenon. Well, it is HOT, and I mean drip down the back of your leg muggy, sticky, sun burning hot. It didn't really hit me until Tienanmen, but spending about 45 minutes in the square, running to and from monument to statue to commemorate Soviet-style temporary exhibit to Chinese flag to portrait of Mao to finally group photo in front of the big red wall helps me realize that I am in a lightweight dress and steamy hot...not in a good way. ;) Furthermore, it is a clear blue sky (they had predicted rain!) with no clouds or trees in sight. I both love the square and hate the heat, with the knowledge I'll be out in it for at least 3 hours, as we stroll (can't go faster considering the massive crowds) from Mao's portrait to the Forbidden City.

All I can say about Tienanmen is wow. My mental picture is of the man walking in front of the tank back in 1989. Cadena remembers the burning monk. We are all solemn at first as we walk past the obelisk monument to the Revolutionary Heroes, and stand in front of Mao's portrait. I am also amazed that loud hawkers are everywhere, following us and all the other Western tourists, with little red books, china flags, green hats with red stars, fans, umbrellas (lady umbrellas for the sun!). This is not the Communism I had pictured. I buy a little red book of Mao's quotes, bartering it down to $2. It is slightly worn.

The walk from Tienanmen through to The Forbidden City takes about 2 hours, stopping for pictures, to hide in the shade of the giant awnings, and vie for a place among the crowds surrounding the throne rooms. It hits me, as I view the golden roofs and massive expanse of Chinese imperialism, that

1) they call us imperialists:), and 2) how strange that Mao kept The Forbidden City in the wake of his massive reforms, as it is such a symbol of the former Empire. His portrait stands on the gate wall welcoming us to the display.

The Forbidden City is really simply a great expanse of buildings and stone walkways, bridges, and corridors. Yet, it is impressive simply because it is so large. We only walk the main corridor, leading us through all the picturesque movie shot parts, but the outer-lying buildings are also roofed in golden tones and span out like giant wings. Even without the Emperor, the complex looms with its former power.

Pitstop at the former Olympic village to take pics in front of the Bird's Nest. We're here for maybe 20 minutes, and I get the impression this is another one of those government sanctioned points of interest.

Teahouse visit is next, where we are shown the proper way of tasting tea (traditionally, it takes 2 small cups), how to hold the cup for men and women, and how to serve tea beautifully. I spend an ungodly amount on loose leaf, but it is so worth it!

More silk marketing, where I'm getting better at the bartering, having conveniently gotten over my angst of yesterday eve. I do need to get everyone gifts, after all! But first, before even entering the market, Cadena and I sit down for our first real cups of coffee of the trip (please remember this is Day 3!). We have confronted our addictions, owned them, and are now on to acceptance and indulgence. I have a cinnamon latte, and they do not have nonfat milk in China. I couldn't care less!

The end of the day brings personal in-room massages. At $30 for 1.5 hours, I must take advantage. Cadena and I tip them $10 (Cadena is smart enough to tip in smaller bills in case they have to hand in money to someone) and, after they count the money a few times, we are thanked with hugs and praise. How cute are they?!?

Day 4

Our last day in China, and we have a light schedule. First stop, Heaven's Gate (or Heaven's Tower, or the Hall of Heaven, depending on your translation) – where the Emperor used to sit for animal sacrifices to hear fortune readings in hopes for good future of his country. It IS the picturesque China. The only thing missing is incense burning from the giant vessels surrounding the Tower.

Of COURSE, there is shopping planned before lunch. I mean, this IS China, after all (surreality #998). The Pearl Market, this time, is another several story building full of more sedate hawkers and goods, but this one has fine jewelry, as well. I almost forgo my move-back money for a coral-and-diamond necklace, but I practice willpower:)

At the airport, we run into a man with a particular shirt. Cadena is brave enough to ask for the picture. The translation reads “For the People”. I think my Dad will love it (no, I did not buy it;) ).

We are all so slap-happy on the bus ride from the airport back to Camp Walker that we can't sleep and I just laugh at everyone's silliness. I am happy to be back in Korea, to hear the lilting tones of Hangul, and to sleep in my comfy bed.

And I still can't believe I was in China! It was so surreal and such a fast journey that my head is still dizzy from it all. But I hope I've conveyed the adventure we had!

Shanghai, on the way to Bangkok, is next, in two weeks!

CHINA!!!

Seoul Food

2011-06-27T18:36:00.001-05:00

Welcome to chicken soup in Korea! Billed as "whole young chicken with ginger and green perielles"... I still have no idea what a pereille is, but I think it's an onion?... this tasty, steamy hot soup is a Korean staple, and perhaps my favorite food here on the peninsula.

It starts, as all Korean meals do here, with small plates of kimchi. Not necessarily what I'd consider an aperitif to chicken soup, but when in Seoul... The clay bowl then is set down right in front of you, still boiling, frothy, spices steaming out in curly-ques, the smell of something delicious wafting up into your face.

Now, you really should wait until the soup stops boiling, at least, to try and taste it. Twice now, I have burnt my tongue for DAYS because I simply cannot wait to dive in. So I recommend first adding sea salt liberally, handily located in a large shaker, and also spiced with ginger. The recipe does not call for salt before it hits the table, and I've seen natives drop a quarter shaker into their boiling bowls. I tend to add as needed.

Here's the tricky part to this soup - you can eat it methodically or you can nosedive into all its tasty goodness, but no matter what you do, you're going to come face to face with, exactly, a "whole young chicken." It is a healthy reminder that your food was actually, at one time, a live animal that was just boiled down and stuffed for your pleasure. And when I say stuffed, I mean STUFFED - rice, whole spices that I can't even identify, and a huge ginger root can all be found in the cavity. In an effort to access all this goodness, you have to stick fingers (I think the Koreans use chopsticks, but I'm not THAT good with them!) in and extract the bones and skin whenever you find them, either in the bowl or in your mouth. It makes for a quite the experience, and a closeness with your fellow eater who is as messy as you are after about three spoonfuls of effort.

All the effort is completely worth it, however, and after you've picked through and devoured just half the bowl, you'll be satisfied, warmed, tingly from the ginger, and entertained by the pile of bones and such. It may sound, at times, disgusting to a Western eater, but it is truly cultural and foodie fun.

Seoul Shopping

2011-06-27T00:09:00.000-05:00

Shopping in Seoul is some of the most fun a girl can have in Korea. I haven't yet been to the Lotte World in Busan - advertised here as the the world's largest Mall (although see post on world's largest Buddha and here for some healthy skepticism on this claim), but Seoul's shopping is vast and only moderately expensive. So, on this weekend's adventure in Seoul, we visited the COEX Super Underground Mall, and some above ground shops throughout Insadong.

One of the fun (in a macabre way) things about shopping in Korea is that there is ONE size. It doesn't fit? Too bad, you cannot go up or down. So finding something for an American - even a petite one - can be tough.

Thankfully (?), due to the wonders of a change in environment, I have developed a health issue that causes me to lose weight. That's right, folks, I am one lucky girl (as long as I can prevent it from bugging out my eyeballs or causing a huge, unsightly lump to grow in my throat). And I have lost enough to actually fit into some of these one-sizes.

Apparently, I do not look the one-size, however, because retail professionals like to argue with me when I ask to try something on. Nonverbally (because neither of us can speak with the nuance required for the following: "I think this might be perfect!What do you think?" with reply of, "There's no way that's fitting over your sizable rump and huge fronts!"), the exchange looks something like this:

K: Holds dress up to self, points to fitting room
Salesperson: Looks K up and down, shakes head imperceptibly, smiles, takes garment from K, places back on rack
K: *puzzlement* *offended but still trying to be polite*."No, I want to try it on," with big smile.

Alternately, the exchange may go something like this:
K: I would like to try these (hands salesperson 3 dresses)
Salesperson: Ok, follow me (shows K to dressing room, hands K back 2 dresses, with a not-so-imperceptable nod of "No, this one not for you" and keeps the third.)

Of course, this kind of exchange for someone who is a weight conscious (read: formerly eating disordered) can be devastatingly comical in a dark-funny sort of way. It's better with a friend to support you. (Thank you, Cadena!)

Thankfully, this weekend, I was able to convince saleswomen to try a few things on, even when they gave me the "No Largey!" look. I even surprised many of them when their dresses were too big or fit just right. And it was so gratifying, in cases where they held onto that third dress, to give them the imperceptible "Not on your life, now!" look when they tried to offer it back after I fit into other ones.

Ultimately, it may be better for Americans to have clothes tailored. But missing out on the scope and consumeristic heaven of these malls would be missing out on a major part of the Asia boom. So, put on your tough skin and try on some clothes - at the very least, you'll have a good laugh:)

Seoul Searching

2011-06-26T20:39:00.001-05:00

I heart Seoul. It really is such a tremendous city, and I think if I lived there, I would actually want to stay in Korea...maybe not forever, but for at least my year +! And it helps fill multiple blog pages, so let's begin with some culture.

This weekend was spent mostly shopping and slogging through the rain, but we were able to hit one museum - the Korean War Memorial, which stands just outside of Yongsan Garrison. As luck would have it, Cadena and I just happened to visit the museum on 25 June - the 51st anniversary of the beginning of the Korean War. The museum itself is an immense place, very concrete and metal, but it has a haunting beauty to it. The exhibits helped us understand what 51 years of civil war/unrest have done to the landscape, the people, and the general philosophy of the nation. And getting to play inside weapons wasn't too shabby, either!

Planes, boats, helicopters way in back, and weapons as far as the eye can see

Taking this picture, I was saddened at the idea of kids playing on weapons but also happy at the fact the kids were girls who weren't afraid to get in there...yeesh!

gas masks are always creepy to me

I can appreciate the size of these things until I'm up close and personal

The entrance statues were really moving

I believe this to mean "Don't Climb" but am also happy if it means "Don't raise the guns."

Perhaps most interesting was the news reporter we encountered at the entrance, filming a piece in English. She mentioned that tensions on the peninsula have not been this high since the start of the War, which was surprising to both of us since we're relatively sheltered from all news about the growing threat.

It is incredible to think this nation is still at war, and has been for over 50 years. There are often talks about reunification, but considering the state of the two nations, I don't think that will happen any time soon. While it is a bit scary to think about aggression from the North, it is also comforting to see South Koreans memorializing their struggle and pushing to free the people of the North. With time, patience and hard work...and some help from larger influences...they may just see it come true.

And then again, maybe not. See here for the North Korean viewpoint on why reunification cannot occur now.

Viewpoint on a scud

This One Resonates

2011-06-24T05:46:00.000-05:00

You have to sit through 15 minutes of his schtick (not very hard!) to get to poignancy, but it's worth it!

After my own 2010, I completely get it.

Now THAT'S Customer Service!

2011-06-23T23:01:00.000-05:00

Look at this email from someone who I granted a contract today:

Joo Jung ✆ to me

show details 11:55 AM (1 hour ago)

Dear Kristina,

Thank you very much for your confirmation. I am more than happy now.

Regards,

Joo.

I mean, seriously, how cute is that??

A Slow Weekend at Home

2011-06-19T01:26:00.000-05:00

Nothing too exciting this weekend, as I am SICK! Yes, I think all the world travel, the time on planes (which we all know are cesspools of germs), and a go-go-GO attitude have knocked me out. I have a summer cold, and am spent.

So, between the tea, movies, naps with Furgie and trolling on Itunes, I thought I'd spend a few moments in that most timely of self-gratifying pursuits: Googling myself.

Quite interestingly, I found this little tid-bit.

Mom and Dad, I promise, this is not me. I may indeed elope again someday, but I swear I did not do that in Paris (this time)!

All the best wishes for these two. I hope this Kristina's marriage lasts a lifetime:)