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Check them out at:

http://kevinfiscusphotography.blogspot.com/2011/03/wind-project-full-video.html

Wind from Andrew Nixon on Vimeo.

Nikon-45mm-f-2.8D-ED-PC-E-Micro-Lens

It’s yours for $1750 or you can duke it out by bidding.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Nikon-PC-E-Micro-Nikkor-45mm-f-2-8D-ED-Lens-/180633829926?pt=Camera_Lenses&hash=item2a0e9d8226

First of all, I must say that I love this camera.  It exceeded my expectations in every way possible.  If I didn’t have a significant investment in FX glass, I would probably make my Nikon D3 my backup and the D7000 my primary shooter.  Really, it’s that good.

Since video is a hot topic lately, I thought I would share some video samples that I have shot demonstrating both standard light quality and low-light quality.   Keep in mind, these are edited videos and exported to h.264 mp4 format, so some loss of quality is evident, and of course there’s also the youtube factor.  Anyhow, enjoy!

Theatre of Lights – Old Sacramento, CA

Confetti Launcher Demonstration

Driving at Night 1 & 2

1. It is much more difficult to fine tune the focus plane using tilting on a digital camera than a 4×5.  Even when using Live View and magnification on my Nikon bodies, I find it it more difficult than focusing on the ground glass of a 4×5.
2. Was slightly disappointed by the limited amount of tilt possible
3. I am very happy with the stiffness of the focus ring.  It makes critical focusing, and making smooth focus changes in video very easy.  It is also silent, which is great for shooting video
4. Kind of bummed that the lens can not tilt and shift on the same axis.  For me, this would have been better since I will primarily be using this for landscape and product photography.  I plan to look into the cost and process of having Nikon modify the lens so it will tilt and shift on the same axis.
5. Controls are a little awkward, but I expected this.  Larger locking screws would have been nice.  I also feel like it would be easy to accidentally over-tighten them and somehow break them.
6. Build quality is excellent.
7. Automatic aperture control on modern Nikon bodies makes this lens less frightening to use, but its nice to have a huge rubberized button right on top of the lens to cancel this so you can get a feel for things.  Basically I use it as an alternative DOF preview button.
8. I assumed that this would be a 2.8 fixed aperture lens, but I quickly learned that close-focusing gives me a max f-stop of 3.8.  No problem for me, but maybe an important spec for some shooters.
9. The leather pouch that comes with the lens is kind of corny, and I don’t really see much use for it.
10. The lens is SHARP!

In true tilt/shift fashion, I had to try to make my own “miniature” video.  Unfortunately, Sacramento doesn’t have a whole lot of interesting things to miniaturize, and has even less (accessible) high vantage points, so this is a pretty sorry attempt at copying the dozens of other tilt shift vids out there.  It was fun to try though.

More soon.

Update:

Selling my PC-E Nikkor 45mm lens.  Excellent price in my opinion.  Lens is virtually “like new” out of the box.  Only used a couple of times.   All original materials and docs.

It’s yours for $1750 or you can duke it out by bidding.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Nikon-PC-E-Micro-Nikkor-45mm-f-2-8D-ED-Lens-/180633829926?pt=Camera_Lenses&hash=item2a0e9d8226

So the problem is this…  You create a ICC color profile using a 3rd party colorimeter and its accompanying calibration software.  When Windows boots or logs on, your 3rd party calibration profile management software properly loads your ICC profiles into your display and you are able to work in a color correct environment.  Great.  The trouble starts when Windows executes various tasks or events, such as a UAC prompt, or your screen locking after being left idle and then unlocking or switching user accounts.  When these sorts of things happen, Windows releases the correct color profiles that should be loaded and replaces them with a system default profile that is not correct for your monitor.    The only way to go back to the correct profiles was through completely logging off and back on, rebooting, or a variety of work arounds that people had come up with.    The work around that I preferred at the time, and is probably still a viable option is to use a free tool called “LUT Manager” which could be used to manually reload an ICC profile after it had been lost by Windows.  Take a look at the original article I wrote for instructions on how to use LUT Manager in Windows.

I found the LUT Manager process to be annoying and tedious, and frankly it was sometimes difficult to remember that I needed to load it before editing photos, but it worked.  Now I’m living in the Windows 7 world and after months and months of frustration, I have a new solution that is working great for me and I would like to share it now.

Believe it or not, this solution comes to us by way of simply using Window Vista / 7′s build in color management system.  The solution is basically we can tell Windows what the default ICC profile should ALWAYS be, without regard to what our 3rd party color management software wants to do.  So when you start your computer or log on, your calorimeter’s profile manager will do its thing and load up the correct profile for your display, just like usual, but after this walk through, whenever these events in Windows happen, such as the screen locking or a UAC prompt appears, you should be bounced back to the correct profile, since we will tell Windows what the correct profile is always supposed to be. In fact, it should be imperceptible.   Basically, it seems to me that there is a disconnect between the 3rd party profile managers and Windows’ native color management system, and they are fighting over who has the right to dictate what ICC profile is loaded, and when.  So, we will tame Windows Color Management and make it do our bidding.

Here we go…

1.  First things first, open up the Windows Color Management tool.  Simply click “Start” and type “color management” in the search box.  It should be one of the first results.

2. If it is not already, in the device pull down menu, select Display 1.

3. Check “Use my settings for this device”

4. In “Profiles associated with this device, you should see the ICC color profile that was created by your color correction software. Or in other words, the ICC profile that you want to have loaded at all times. I happen to have an Acer monitor with a profile I created in Sept 2010. So when I created an ICC profile using my colorimeter, i named it ACER_SEPT10.  You profile name will vary of course.   Select this profile and click the “Set as Default Profile” button.  If you do this correctly, the word “(default)” will appear next to the profile name.  If you don’t see the correct profile, (I don’t  know why this would happen, but I’m just saying..), click the “Add…” button and manually locate the correct profile and repeat the instructions in this step to set as the default profile.  Typically, color profiles are stored in \Windows\system32\spool\drivers\color.

5. If you have a dual monitor setup like me, after completing step 4,  Select “Dispaly 2″ from the Device drop down menu and then repeat step 4.  You will need to have a default profile set up for each monitor for this to work.  If you don’t know which monitor is which, click the “Identify monitors” button.

6. Ok, so now your default profiles are set, now click the “Profiles” button and select “Combine my settings with system defaults”

7. Now, click the “Advanced” tab in the Color Management window.

8. Click “Change System Defaults…”

9. In “Color Management – System Defaults” open the “Advanced” tab.

10. Click the  ”Use Windows display calibration” check box. If your profiles ARE NOT loaded at this time, hopefully as soon as you check this box, they will be.  Pay attention and see if there is a change.  There should be.  If you are doing this walk through and your correct profiles ARE loaded, then you won’t see aything happen, because you are already in a color corrected environment.

11. Click Close and Close again to exit Color Management and you’re done.

Now, with any luck (hey, it works for me at least), you shouldn’t have to worry about manually loading your lost profiles each time you need to work in a color corrected work flow.

Comments and suggestions welcome.  So far, this is working fine for me.

So you’ve heard about tethering.  You’ve heard its available from your phone company for an extra whopping $30 bucks on top of your regular data plan.  Well, what if I told you that with a few easy steps, you can tether your Android phone to your desktop or laptop and surf the web using nothing but your phone a “sort of” high speed modem?  With some very basic computer knowhow, a PC, a USB cable, and an Android phone, you can surf the web from wherever there is a decent 3G or EDGE connection, which for a lot of people is almost everywhere.

I am using a Nexus One (Android 2.1 rev1) but I believe this should work on all Android devices.  There are a few different ways to enable your phone to tether.  One way is rooting your phone, which voids your warranty and the other (the one I’m going to go over) is installing a free application from the Android Marketplace called “Proxoid”.  Just open up the market and search for it.  It will be right at the top.

Unfortunately, in order for Proxoid to work you will need to download the Android SDK. Luckily, Google has redesigned the SDK to only include the basic framework, requiring you to download the platform and tools you wish to work in, rather than forcing you into a 200+ MB download that has everything.  Ok, away  we go:

This tutorial assumes that you have a basic to intermediate knowledge of Windows XP / Vista / 7 or are willing to research any items that don’t make sense.  Specifically, you know how to move files, extract files from archives/zip files, create shortcuts on your desktop etc.

(Of course, start by downloading Proxoid from the Android Market)

1.  Turn on Debugging Mode on your phone.  Go to Settings>Applications> Development >USB Debugging

2. Download the Android SDK.  You can get the ZIP file here:  http://developer.android.com/sdk/index.html (note: this tutorial only covers the Windows version.  I am writing this tutorial as if its for Windows 7, but Vista and XP should be similar.   Although it is possible to tether on Mac and Linux, I’m not that great with either so I can’t really get into it).

3. Extract the “android-sdk-windows” folder from the ZIP file to a place of your chosing.  I just extracted it to my c: drive.  The choice is yours.

4.  Open the “android-sdk-windows” folder you just extracted and launch “SDK Setup.exe”

5. Note:  On two separate PCs, I got the same error saying:

“Failed to fetch URL https://dl-ssl.google.com/android/repository/repository.xml, reason: HTTPS SSL error. You might want to force download through HTTP in the settings.”

To get passed this, click “close” and go to the “settings” tab found on the left side of the window.  Check the option to force https: connections to use http: which will fix this error.

6. Click the “Installed Packages” tab on the left.  Then click “Update All…”

7.  All we need here is the USB Driver Package.  Click each item in the packages window to place a red X except for the USB Driver Package item.  You can also indivudually highlight each package and click “reject”.  In this screen “accept” means install and “reject” means “do not install”.

8.  Once everything EXCEPT the USB Driver Package is rejected, click “Install”.

9 This will create a new directory in your “android-sdk-windows” folder called “usb_driver“.  Check it out, you’ll see it there.  This folder contains the USB drivers for your Android phone and will allow it to properly communicate with your Windows computer.

10.  Plug in your phone using a USB cable.  Some computers will automatically pop up a Found New Hardware window and some won’t.  I’m not sure why.  (If it doesn’t pop up, go to step 10a).  If you are presented with the Found New Hardware window, do not have Windows automatically search for a driver to install, instead, instruct it to “Browse My Computer For Driver Software”.  This will allow you to tell Windows where to find the driver for your phone.  Browse for the driver by pointing the search to “c:/android-sdk-windows/usb_driver” (or wherever you installed it) and click Next.  With any luck, Windows will find the driver and install it automatically.  Note:  both 32-bit and 64-bit drivers are included in the SDK.

10a.  If you were not prompted to install new hardware when you plugged in your phone, don’t worry.  Just go to your device manager.  There are several ways to do this.  The easiest way is to Right Click your “Computer / My Computer” icon on the desktop and then click “Properties”.  Depending on which version of Windows you have, you may see a link right there for Device Manager.  XP users have a dig a little bit more, but it’s there. I promise.  Once you’re in the Device Manager, look for a item that sounds like your phone and that has a yellow mark on it.  (You may have several yellow items depending on the overall health of your computer).  Mine simply said “Nexus One” and had a yellow icon under it.  Double click the item and you will see a message saying something to about the driver not being installed for this device.  Install/update the driver and use the steps in step 10.  Once the driver is installed, you will have an item called something like “Android Compatible ADB Interface”.  If you see this, you’re in business.

11.  There are two files additional files that must be added to the Android SDK folder to enable tethering.  Install the “start-tunnel.bat” and “check.bat” files into your “c:/android-sdk-windows/tools”  folder.  These files are provided at the maker of Proxoid’s website, but for you’re convenience, I have uploaded them here: http://www.slagermanphoto.com/android/

12. After copying the two .bat files into your tools folder, right click on the “start-tunnel.bat” file and go to “Send To>Desktop (create shortcut).  This will place a shortcut to the file on the desktop.  This will be helpful because any time you wish to tether, you will need to launch this application.

13. On your phone, open Proxoid and place a check mark in “Start/Stop” Proxoid

14.  Double click the “start-tunnel.bat” shortcut on your desktop and follow any instructions in the command prompt window that opens.

15. Open your browser, be it Internet Explorer, Firefox, Chrome.. whatever.  You are going to need to modify the browser’s proxy settings.  I won’t go into much detail here, that’s what a Google search is for, but you will need to set your proxy address to “localhost” or “127.0.0.1” (no quotation marks) and the port for all traffic to 8080 (http, https, socks etc).  Almost all browsers will have their proxy settings under Options or Settings.  Firefox is under Tools>Options>Advanced>Network.  Chrome is under the Wrench icon, then Options>Under The Hood>Change My Proxy Settings.  IE, eahh.. you get the point.

16. FIN!  Start Browsing!

If you did everything correctly, you shoud now be able to browse the net right through the data connection on your phone.  Unfortunately, it will be slower than what you’re use to.  Sometimes painfully slow.  It really depends on your carrier, signal strength, data connection quality, and the content you are trying to access.   You can verify its working by turning off your wifi connection or unplugging your ethernet cord.  If these are off and your able to surf, then give yourself a pat on the back cause you’re done.   The beauty of this is your phone is being charged as you use it, so as long as your computer is plugged into an outlet, you will have limitless access and not have to worry about the battery on your modem.. err…  phone.

Be aware that when you are done tethering, you will want to change your proxy settings back to their default (usually blank) state.  If you try to connect to the Internet over regular wi-fi or a wired network and you don’t change the proxy settings back, you will have trouble browsing.

Happy Surfing and congrats on sticking it to the man… Cough At&t….

Keep in mind that it is YOUR responsibility to verify with your mobile carrier that this will not cause you to incur any extra costs on your bill.  I will not be held responsible for any unexpected or outrageous phone bills.  Always check with your carrier.

Being a photographer and mingling in the design realm, I am exposed to Mac folks on an almost constant basis. Almost as constant is the “how do you get anything done on a PC??” question. I use to brush it off and blame it on the age-old PC/Mac debate but lately, I have been noticing a trend that seems so obvious I can’t believe I didn’t pick up on it before. Many Mac users truly believe that Apple products are the holy grail of computing. An infallible brand of perfect machines that just “get the job done”. While I don’t deny that Apple has been a leader in innovation and makes quality products, I find myself trying to understand how so many of its users hold this blind belief that if it’s not an Apple, it’s crap.

A lot of people know me as the PC guy. My first computer was a PC (Windows 3.1). I’ve grown up with PCs and they have always served me well and interestingly enough, I have used Macs for years as well during college. Have I ever had a PC crash on me? Yes. Have I ever had a virus? Yes. Have I ever run into a situation where there was something that a Mac could do that a PC couldn’t? Never in a million years. It is true the PCs are more likely to be attacked by viruses and malware but think about it. If you were the maker of these viruses, wouldn’t you want to focus your energy on targeting the platform that holds over 92% of the total market share? Then some people say that PCs just break all the time. Yes, PCs break but so do Macs and EVERY other type of electronic available to us. For every major defect or recall with a PC that I’ve heard about, I’ve heard about an equally damaging (and often embarrassing) defect on a Mac. Ahem… yellow screens on the iMac. cough overheating nVidia graphics cards.. ok I’m done.

I like to think of myself as a diversified geek. I use Windows and Ubuntu for every day computing. I was a long-time Blackberry smartphone user and recently switched to Android. I have a Microsoft Zune for music instead of an iPod. I find it’s best to chose platforms that suit my specific needs. If something isn’t a good fit, I move on. At the same time, I acknowledge that every platform is going to have its strengths and weaknesses. I have noticed that PC/Linux people tend to be this way, while Apple people tend to be the complete opposite. What is this about? I have also objectively noticed that pro Mac people have little experience with PCs, while pro PC folks, tend to have used both. Hmm…. FTW!

This takes me to the point of this note. Why do Apple fans/users so blindly believe (or at least appear to believe) that their platform is perfect in every way? My goal is not to bash Apple products here. But to be honest, I guess part of my goal is to bash the people that hold Apple products on an unearthly pedestal.

In my humble opinion, Photoshop is Photoshop no matter what platform you use it on. MacOS has its strengths and serious shortcomings, just like Windows. “Well what about video, Mac has Final Cut Pro” says the Mac guy to which I respond, “so what, I have Adobe Premier Pro and After Effects”. I could go on like this forever. Literally.

One observation that I have honestly made is that the people that I encounter who feel that Mac are the only way tend to be on the less computer-savy side of the fence. They know how to email, update their facebook page, or download a photo from their camera to their computer but beyond that it gets fuzzy. “Power users” (as I call them) know file systems, what hardware does what, how to format a hard drive, install a new printer driver etc etc. These “power users” tend to be on the other side of the fence, not declaring loyalty to a specific computer religion. Why is this? It seems to me that actual ability to use a computer would be irrelevant to a person’s belief of the superiority of one platform over another.

My point is is that everyone is going to have a preference. Obvious. I get that. Some people will will stick to a platform and others will flirt, even if only for a moment, with others. But please please please, stop telling me that your Mac can do things that my PC can’t. Mine can do the same thing (and much more) for about 1/4th the price, and that is just not debatable.

And if there’s one other item I can offer (and I admit that this is subjective) it is that Apple (Steve Jobs really) has put a hell of a lot of effort into manufacturing Mac users into exactly the kind of customers he wants them to be: ones that keep coming back for more. They have done this by herding and corralling their customers into a tiny closed MacOS pasture. You see the pasture. I looks small, but pretty none the less. You are drawn to it and and suddenly forced through the gate and Steve slams the door shut and says to you, “Don’t worry about how small this pasture is, instead concentrate on how green the grass looks. This grass on the other side of the fence is of far less quality, in fact, the fences are high-tech and were built by me and they have the special ability to keep the outside grass out forever and if any of that grass does manage to get in, I will kill it immediately so that it does not have a chance to influence you.” You go about your day, admiring the green grass, afraid of the bad grass on the other side of a tiny little fence.

Am I making any sense here? Are you a Mac person and find yourself offended, bewildered, betrayed? Well, welcome to my world as a PC user who is tired of being accused of being an idiot for making a logical choice in what brand of computer to edit a photo on.