Ktani's Hair Sense

Hair penetration by conventional cosmetic ingredients

2012-02-12T11:35:00.029-05:00

These are not current research studies.

This one is from 2005, and is about the quaternium ammonium compound, cetrimonium bromide, being able to be absorbed into hair because of its low molecular weight. Again, the hair preparation, is not clear to me. However, it had to have nothing on it that could prevent absorption for the tests to be accurate. The catch? "Quats" as they are often referred to are highly toxic and are recommended to be used only in very small percentages in hair care. They are not used on their own but in a formulation. In order to get the absorption benefits from it, the hair would need to be well clarified and the formulation would have to be free of barrier coatings like waxes and other high molecular ingredients that would interfere with its absorption. That is different to toxic consituents in ingredients being absorbed into even intact skin in creams, for example, see Page 2 "Safety".

This one, from 1995 is most interesting to me, as it concerns the absorption of various silicone emulsions used as a pre-treatment before chemical hair dye and bleach to help prevent oxidative hair damage. The hair was prepped or prepared, by washing it. This 2002 patent by L'Oreal, uses the 1995 study as a reference.

So, what happened to all of that between then and now?

There appears to have been or is some difficulty in stabilizing such emulsions.

Both coconut and argan oils used as a pre-treatment before application of chemical peroxide containing dye and bleach can help prevent peroxide damage too and condition hair at the same time, http://ktanihairsense.blogspot.com/2009/11/part-1-of-3-part-series-on-innovative.html.

More on oils and oil shampoo

2012-02-10T11:10:00.028-05:00

I have said all of this re oil shampoo and oil penetration of hair, on LHC. My posts there are copyright protected as are my posts in this blog. Linked sources, and partial quotes in this blog are from websites which anyone can access.

Someone once asked me about the 2003 research, the one "everyone" including scientists quote that shows that coconut oil can penetrate hair the deepest, over other oils. I was asked if I thought the research study was biased, since it was funded by a company that sells vegetable oils. My reply at the time was that it is a peer-reviewed study. To me, the results are accurate.

However, after rereading the research study, I realized that the hair had been prepped, with an emulsifier first to remove oils and then washed with SLES to make sure nothing could prevent any of the oils from penetrating hair. In other studies before that, the hair was washed with SLS for the same reason.

In the 2005 study, on hair penetration and heat being used, the hair preparation is unclear to me. However, what is clear is that the cuticle scales are clear to the researchers in measuring what if any oils remain on the hair surface, or are visible. That means to me that absolutely nothing was on the hair that could obstruct any of the oils from penetrating it, in as much as the researchers could do to make that so.

I have no issues with the research studies. What none of them addressed was that in real life today, many shampoos and conditioners coat the hair and do obstruct the lauric acid in coconut oil for example from penetrating hair.

If this were not so, the results the movie stars in those articles I wrote about re oil shampoo had, hair with volume and curls and waves, with no tangling, when no conditioner had been used afterward and no styling aids either, just acidic rinses, would be the same results that anyone who tried any coconut oil shampoo would get.

That did not happen and I realized why. The coatings that exist today in products did not exist then. And the coatings that did exist like certain botanicals were not widely used in soaps or the shampoos available then, like today in "all natural" hair products.

Coconut oil used over conditioner can cause dry "crunchy" ends. It is not going into the hair one bit. It is just sitting on top of the conditioner, which can also be nice though. No oil mixed with conditioner, or a butter on unclarified or clarified hair is going into the hair. They can make very nice surface conditioners only.

Even herb washes coat the hair and no results like those of the movie stars have been reported by people using coconut oil as a pre-wash before a herb wash that I have read anywhere.

It is as simple as that. Some coatings in shampoos today do allow lauric acid to penetrate hair. That is the oil shampoo biggest issue, finding those shampoos and finding a clarifying shampoo that does not leave barrier coatings behind. Superfatted soaps can also create problems for an oil shampoo and lauric acid penetration. Extra, double bond oils, which can also be drying oils and cause tangling, or butters, which contain waxy stearic acid, choke off lauric acid access to the hair. Only a small amount of lauric acid can access hair without barrier coatings present, like waxes, many polymers, many botanicals etc.

Concerning coconut oil used as a grooming aid reducing protein loss from combing, the same thing applies. It would need to be used on bare hair for that benefit, like in the research. Used over coatings, it has no direct access to the hair. The protein loss coconut oil can help prevent is from the hair itself, not added product. Conditioner can help do that too or any coating on the hair that helps prevent friction, like mineral oil which speads easier than vegetable oils.

For coconut oil to help prevent protein loss from inside the hair, it has to be used on well clarified hair and with shampoo that does not contain barrier coatings and cause build-up, or with heat.

Any barrier containing product used over hair product protein coatings can help prevent those coatings from being washed out, in that the hair is being overloaded with multiple layers of coatings. The protein in shampoos and conditioners is in the form of a coating that adheres to the cuticle surface.

Protein treatments can penetrate hair, well clarified hair best, and they wash out easily, easy in, easy out.

When coconut oil lauric acid deeply penetrates well clarified hair, it bonds with protein in the hair cortex and while it can be washed out too, it tends not to be washed out as easily as protein treatments.

Why was the research conducted? Here is the clue from page 3. Colour added by me.
"Prolonged use of coconut oil has been known to lead to healthy looking long hair, suggesting that it may prevent damage to the cuticle in grooming procedures involving abrasion. Obvious is the lubricating effect of oil on fiber friction, which reduces abrasive damage, especially in combing. However, in modern times, the trend in hair oil formulations is more towards the use of non-sticky oils such as mineral oil ..."

Cosmetic light mineral oil/baby oil summary

2012-02-01T22:27:00.004-05:00

Conditioners are not without their uses. The coatings and waxes most contain fill in the gaps in cuticles from damage and help smooth the hair and make it more combable. That is what in part, the 4.75 hour steeped catnip treatment does for my hair.

Without mineral oil in them though, conditioners are not great moisturizers for hair. Other oils, butters or silicone cannot outperform mineral oil for that or its detangling effects.

My hair is not damaged. I can use baby oil drops on my hair without catnip. Friends of mine can go without conditioning and use baby oil drops too.

For those with damaged hair using a light conditioner first can be helpful.

It is not an either or proposition to get great hair. There is no reason to me why one cannot mix it up and add the light mineral oil to conditioner (drops) or use a conditioner lightly and the drops over that one time, and go without conditioning first another time, whatever works best.

You can use a protein treatment if needed and use the drops as a moisturizing treatment afterward on damp hair or use a moisturizing conditioner lightly after the protein treatment and use the drops after that on damp hair for extra moisturizing.

And using light mineral oil drops as a pre-treatment before washing with shampoo may be helpful. Less drops would be needed afterward for detangling I would bet.

For those who clarify anyway because of conditioner and conditioning shampoo or styling aids, the above are options to try. Cosmetic light mineral oil/baby oil otherwise is very easy to completely shampoo/conditoner only remove from hair.

For those like me who do not want build-up or to clarify, and if your hair is not damaged, clarify the hair first, and try the drops alone on damp hair and use a non build-up shampoo after that, when needed. If the hair has a great moisture level, the drops can be used on dry hair.

The key is less is more with cosmetic light mineral oil. Use and think small drops. It spreads so easily, that much less than you would ever think necessary can give fantastic results without the downsides of vegetable oils or butters - heavy, greasy, stringy, sticky hair. And to top it off, it is antistatic and helps control frizz.

More on Cosmetic Mineral Oil/Baby Oil

2012-01-28T07:07:00.008-05:00

The idea of using drops only of mineral oil was the key in the research study for me that led to this blog post, http://ktanihairsense.blogspot.com/2011/12/mineral-oil-and-hair-care-and-skin.html.

I had tried small amounts of other oils before. Drops were less intimidating and worked for me without waste, aside from being incredibly economical, although the price of mineral oil is low to start with, especially for baby oil.

They also reduced the possibility of using too much and my having to rewash my hair because it would look and feel bad.

I had no reason to worry. Mineral oil spreadability is another commonly known factor in the cosmetic industry that sets it apart from vegetable oils and silicone, in addition to its superior moisturization abilities, and it not being as potentially greasy. It goes further and better than other oils can using an equivalent amount.

See "Emolliency" Pgs 5 and 6, as well as the "Synopsis" on Pg. 1. and "Slip, Shine and Safety" on Pgs 6 and 7. As I reported here, I had no tangles with mineral oil because it reduced friction and that means less hair stress, which in turn means less potential hair damage.

Dow Corning has come up with a silicone product to enhance vegetable oils.

That would not be necessary if vegetable oils did not need enhancing to deliver the same qualities mineral oil can on its own.

Going back to sustainability, mineral oil is already widely available, especially baby oil, which is what I used. Applications of drops only, means much less is needed. Producing the product to enhance vegetable oils requires power and that power comes from non renewable resources.

Every vegetable oil out there used for cosmetics or food is processed, even the unrefined ones. Heat is used in processing virgin coconut oil for example, more power generation from non renewable resources.

To me, mineral oil is a win win product. Mineral oil cannot replace all vegetable oil cosmetic applications but it can replace oiling hair as a grooming aid and with better results.

Cosmetic or USP or BP mineral oil comes in different grades. Baby oil is light mineral oil, as opposed to some heavier grades sold for laxative use. Light mineral oil spreads easier and is easier to work with. Light unfragranced USP or BP mineral oil is also sold for preserving wooden cutting boards.

Understanding the Drying Capacity of Oils

2011-12-10T20:54:00.012-05:00

Oils can be defined by their drying capacity as: Drying, Semidrying and Nondrying oils. These definitions can help you choose which kind of oil is best suited for your hair care routine.

What does this mean?

Here is some information on oils by Transport Information Service on the definitions.

What does this have to do with hair care?

Quite a lot actually. While some oils can be difficult to remove from the hair because of the amounts on the hair at one time or the method used (shampoo versus conditioner only), semidrying and drying oils present more of a problem (semidrying oils are not too much of a problem), due to their chemistry and reaction to oxygen.

In the case of the drying oils, the information on the cleaning of the oil tanks matches the problem that that you can have using a drying oil frequently on your hair, the difficulty (need to repeatedly clarify the hair) to remove it. Drying oils become resinous when they are exposed to oxygen.

Does this mean that drying oils should never be used on hair? Of course not. You just need to know what you are dealing with and the consequences of overusing such oils, build-up that can be problematic, leading to dry, brittle hair if not removed. Drying oils are best used sparingly and less often than other oils on hair, to avoid problems.

Examples of drying oils: linseed (flax oil), pine tar oil, poppy seed oil, sunflower oil

Examples of semidrying oils: corn oil, cottonseed oil, sesame oil

Examples of nondrying oils: babassu oil, coconut oil, olive oil

The iodine value of an oil determines how the oil is defined, and some sources differ as to the cut off point between the numbers for semidrying and drying oils. You can look up an oil and its iodine value, or look up an oil by one of the three definitions.

If an oil has an iodine value of 130 - 190, it is a drying oil. Scroll down the page here, for a list of some oils and their iodine values.

Here is a second, somewhat more extensive list. Just click on iodine value.

Mineral Oil: The surprising moisturizer, especially in conditions of low humidity and it is antistatic

2011-12-10T11:22:00.086-05:00

Mineral oil, like silicone often gets vilified as a hair care and skin product ingredient. It cannot replace a deep conditioning oil like coconut oil, that has been shown in research to penetrate hair to the cortex level and help prevent protein loss. Mineral oil does not penetrate hair, according to that same research.

That however, does not mean that mineral oil should be avoided for hair or skin use at all costs. Just the opposite. It can be used effectively, sparingly and can have several uses for hair. It is more effective than natural sebum and vegetable oils in helping prevent moisture loss from skin, and by extension in my opinion, hair, especially in conditions of low humidity.

This study, says just that about use on skin.

The Mayo Clinic concurs.

Information on mineral oil, well referenced as usual, from Paula Begoun.

And there is more. Mineral oil is classified cosmetically as antistatic. There are no restictions for use listed either.

It can be used lightly to help moisturize skin and does not clog pores.

What I am suggesting for use of mineral oil in hair care is that it can be used very lightly, as a finishing oil, on damp hair, to rehydrate it if the hair has lost moisture and help hold it in the hair, particularly during low humidity, winter conditions, and it can help prevent static. Used lightly, it does not leave the hair sticky, greasy or stringy, the way other oils can after application.

It will not seal the hair from all moisture. No oil does that and silicone does not either. Moisture vapour can still penetrate hair when either of those ingredients is used, unless you layer everything on so thick that the hair shaft gets overloaded. A build up of too much conditioner without oils or silicone can do that, leaving ends in particular feeling dry.

The same reasons that make mineral oil not the best choice for a deep conditioning or treatment oil, make it a perfect choice as a grooming aid.

It may also, as an emollient and antistatic agent, replace the need for conditioner or a leave-in detangler, used exactly the same way, sparingly, but evenly throughout the hair. It should not take more than a few drops to do this, as the research on skin showed. Mineral oil obviously spreads easily. Used this way, it should not be heavy or weigh the hair down.

In the skin research study, at least two drops of the baby oil were applied to cover each skin test site. The oil was used in such a small amount to not be noticeable upon examination, in other words not look greasy. The four skin test sites were elbows, knees, heels, and tibia. It was applied twice daily, once after first arising in the morning and a second time before retiring for the night. Wearing clothes or sleep wear would account for the need for a double application. Some of the oil would be rubbed off, especially from elbows, knees, and heels. It should stay on the hair and not require more than one application.

Extrapolating from the skin research study, the reason vegetable oils need reapplying when used to oil hair as a grooming aid is because they are not as effective at preventing moisture loss from hair. Mineral oil should not cause the same problem or need to be reapplied after the first use.

Result? You need less oil and therefore build up and build-up as in residue should not be a problem. Mineral oil used this way should simply wash out of the hair easily, with your next shampoo. Mineral oil is not a drying oil.

Many cosmetic ingredients are synthesized with processes that use petrochemicals.

One bottle of pure USP or BP mineral oil/white (clear, no colour) baby oil would last several years used the way I have suggested using it, about two drops at a time. No reapplication of the oil would be needed until the next hair wash. Mineral oil cannot go rancid and has an indefinite shelf life, with no special requirements for storage.

That has less impact on the environment than going through several bottles of conditioner or detanger in one month of typical use for some people.

Pure USP or BP unfragranced mineral oil can be purchased at most pharmacies.

Update:
I have tried this twice now, once over damp catnipped hair just to see how the mineral oil behaved, using two drops (my hair is naturally thin). My hair was not sticky, greasy, nor did it leave my hair stringy or tangled. With catnip, my hair is perfectly balanced, so my defined waves remained the same. I had a bit more volume. When I went back to using catnip alone after the next wash, there were no problems and my hair was just as conditioned and coloured as well as it is usually. This was evidence to me that the mineral oil had been washed out completely. My hair does not tangle with catnip use and I do not get static.

The second time, I used it on damp shampooed hair only, using just over two drops. My hair is not stringy, sticky or greasy and my waves are again perfectly defined, with no static and great volume. This makes the mineral oil a perfect choice for me to use when I do not have time to do an hour catnip treatment, not a replacement for catnip, as I rely on catnip for hair colour as well as conditioning. I am thrilled with the results. It has been a week now and my hair is not dry or tangled. Catnip is all I normally use on my hair after washing it with shampoo. I apply it to wet hair, with excess water gently squeezed out first, in the shower as a colour/conditioning treatment. The extra moisture from having used the mineral oil on damp hair caused me no problems and would account for the extra volume.

I have been reviewing posts, blogs and information online re petrolatum and mineral oil in African American hair care where these ingredients are staples. They are often used along with lanolin and more recently, with vegetable oils, like coconut oil. They can help reduce frizz because the products do reduce the amount of moisture vapour that enters the hair and they can help hold more moisture in the hair. Lanolin is a wax and petrolatum is greasy. They can be harder to remove and leave residues that build-up because of that.

However, mineral oil, while it can leave a residue just like any other oil, if it is used alone, in a small enough amount like drops, and not too many of them, will not build-up or leave a residue because it can be completely removed from the hair with any shampoo that is cleansing or conditioner only, which emulsifies oils, in one wash.

What is a non cleansing shampoo? Shampoo with too many conditioning additives or weak cleansers, that will not remove natural oils enough, to get mildly greasy hair clean from natural sebum.

There is absolutely no reason why the mineral oil drop(s) should not help even severely damaged hair, from chemical abuse or heat styling, when used on the hair when it is damp. Damp hair is hair where added moisture (water) has not yet evaporated. Mineral oil helps prevent the water from evaporating.

Damaged hair is usually dry or lacking moisture. The cuticles have been compromised and cannot help hold moisture in the hair well, even if they are closed tightly with an acidic rinse. A light application of mineral oil, while it cannot mend the damage (nothing can), temporarily holds moisture in the hair and can make it both soft and shiny. With mineral oil being an emollient and antistatic agent, the hair is less stressed by friction as well, and that helps prevent more damage.

If the hair's moisture level is good, the drop(s) can also be used on dry hair to help maintain it, in conditions of low humidity.

In conditions of high humidy, applying the drop(s) to dry hair with a good moisture level can help maintain that too, while helping to prevent moisture from the air causing frizz.

For any application of the drop(s), it is best that the hair not have a lot of build-up on it. It is not necessary to clarify the hair if it is not needed for the mineral oil/white (clear, no colour) baby oil to be effective. The drop(s) should not need to be reapplied between washes.

Catnip, http://ktanihairsense.blogspot.com/2009/11/part-3-of-4-on-innovative-approaches-to.html

When to clarify hair and with what products

2011-12-08T17:46:00.037-05:00

Clarify hair when needed and that is determined by how the hair looks and behaves.

Clarify when your hair feels or looks: dull, heavy, hard to manage, more tangly, more dry, and just in general more difficult to deal with. There is no difference in terms of needing to clarify, whether a product contains silicone or not. All conditioners cause build up on the hair. They are designed to do so. All styling aids build up on hair too, with continuous use. By build up I mean keep deposting coatings on the hair. The hair shaft at some point gets overloaded and clarifying, or removing the coatings with a product designed or chosen to do so is the only way to "reset" the condition of the hair. A shampoo with minimal extras can help remove product residues but in most cases, that will take time, and the products used to cause the residue often need to be discontinued to be used.

The only ways to clarify hair from build-up I know of are clarifying shampoos, or baking soda in water (fully dissolve the baking soda in water so that it is not abrasive) and immediately follow it with an acidic rinse - diluted like vinegar or lemon juice or citric acid.

Baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) has a few advantages for clarifying hair as opposed to clarifying shampoos. It is cheap, easy to obtain, and you control how strong the solution is or is not, by the amount of baking soda used to the amount of water. A too strong solution can leave hair dry. An acidic rinse like those mentioned has a lower pH than most conditioners, and closing the cuticles immediately after using baking soda is important, whether you condition the hair after that or not, to prevent tangling and stress on the hair.

All a clarifying shampoo is - is a shampoo with stronger cleansers - it does not have to be sodium lauryl sulfate - it can be ammonium lauryl sulfate and the best ones contain almost nothing else - no polymers, no botanicals, no waxes like cetyl alchohol and no liquid waxes like jojoba oil, or shea butter.

This is an example only of a clarifying shampoo, with almost nothing else. Colour add by me.
Ingredients
"Water, Amino Methyl Propanol, Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Cocamide DEA, Sodium Chloride, Fragrance, Sodium Phosphate, Disodium Phosphate, Ammonium Xylene Sulfonate, EDTA (Ethylenediamine-Tetra-Acetic Acid), Benzophenone 2, D&C Green 8, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, FD&C Blue 1 (CI 42090)"

The Amino Methyl Propanol is a pH adjuster and the EDTA is a chelating agent to help with hard water.

Combinations of ingredients with the cleanser(s) in such shampoos are designed to remove residues or build-up efficiently.

Formulations and cosmetic ingredients are constantly being changed to reflect advances in the science of hair care and consumer demand for better products.

Here is current information from Cosmetiscope, a cosmetic industry publication and an article by Joseph Albanese, "A Primer on Rinse-Off Hair Conditioners"

The above is about product build-up.

To remove soap scum use one of the above acidic rinses.

To remove mineral build-up use one of the acidic rinses (lemon juice chelates minerals), or club soda, or a chelating shampoo and some chelating shampoos but very few, can also reduce product build-up. A chelating shampoo is not in general designed to clarify hair - just bind metal salts and remove minerals from the hair.

Club soda does not chelate minerals. It is acidic and helps break up minerals on the hair, neutalizes chlorine and can remove mineral deposits like calcium from hair. I could not find one reference saying carbonic acid - the acid in club soda chelates minerals. The small amount of baking soda in club soda is part of the buffering system only, which stabilizes the pH of club soda, to be hair friendly at about pH 5, which means that it needs no diluting. The fizz - is harmless to hair. Club soda does not need to be used flat.

EDTA in a shampoo chelates calcium and magnesium. A vinegar rinse, although it does not chelate or club soda can also remove calcium and magnesium deposits from hair.

Hair care of movie stars from the past

2010-10-11T13:02:00.101-04:00

There is too much information and too many links for me to turn this into a simple blog post. I found some unexpected, fabulous, very hair friendly and innovative information on how the hair of stars like Carole Lombard, Rita Hayworth and Veronica Lake was actually prepared, during filming a movie. Research on coconut oil supports the information.

I analyzed the movie star articles, which contain no recipes or preparations for creating the oil shampoos mentioned, minus the one used on Veronica Lake (I found and posted the shampoo ingredients, which are incomplete, and it needed to be stripped off of her hair every morning before being reapplied), which is an exception and works very differently to the oil shampoos used on Carole Lombard and Rita Hayworth. I analyzed coconut oil research and further research. I applied my own product knowledge learned through my research and personal experimentation with catnip and I created two methods, one to duplicate the results of the shampoos used on the other two movies stars, Ktani's Movie Star Shampoo Method, and the second, Ktani's Movie Star Oiling Method, which can be used on its own, or on hair washed with a shampoo created with Ktani's Movie Star Shampoo Method.

Ktani's Movie Star Oiling Method is designed to allow coconut, or other vegetable oils high in lauric acid to penetrate hair more than partially, and even partially is very restricted to impossible, when oiling hair with problematic coatings on it. Vegetable oils that are high in lauric acid can penetrate hair to the cortex with my methods and condition it from both the inside and on the surface. All of that is explained in the Article below and links therein.

Oil shampoos are mentioned in the Carole Lombard, Rita Hayworth, and Veronica Lake links below, and my methods for creating and using an oil shampoo and oiling are unique and innovative. Results early on confirmed my methods work.

Plagiarism

A Short, Complete Article on The Thread

Carole Lombard

Esther Williams and Louise Brooks

Jean Harlow

Marilyn Monroe, Marilyn Monroe's Hair: The early and later years

Rita Hayworth

Veronica Lake

Enjoy! There are links with great photographs.

Another myth debunked: testing a natural oil for purity by refrigerating it to see if it solidifies

2010-09-25T13:59:00.011-04:00

I thought that the test sounded strange. If an oil were mixed with another oil that solidifies in the same way, that would not be a true test. Jojoba oil for example, solidifies when left in the fridge and it is technically a liquid wax.

So, I researched it.

Why that test is not valid regarding the purity of any oil for a number of reasons. About the author of the text quoted in part below. The same things exactly would apply to other oils.
"Clever fraudsters will just add enough ‘other stuff’ so as to just make it difficult for authorities to definitively say that “yes this oil is fraudulent” without having to resort to expensive sophisticated testing and lengthy court cases. An adulterated olive oil that contains 90% extra virgin olive oil and 10% canola oil will still have a high level of monounsaturated fat* and will therefore solidify at fridge temperature. Next to the authentic EVOO, it will look exactly the same."

Labelling and the right seals plus a little internet/email investigation will tell one whether an oil is approved, certified and pure and where it does come from. If the right questions are not replied to by email with a way to back them up, I would buy from another supplier or purchase a different brand of the oil in question.

Debunking the silicone myth in hair care

2010-09-24T09:58:00.017-04:00

There is nothing in scientific research literature to state that the use of silicones in hair care products causes hair damage, over time or otherwise. Just the opposite has been observed by those doing the research and testing.

I do not for one second doubt reports of silicone-free products yielding better hair results for people. I simply do not believe that the lack of silicones is the sole or only reason for the results. I think there are other reasons like the formulation of the different products and changes of the hair care routine.

In this study, the repeated use of a silicone caused hair luster to diminish. The same can be said of any natural oil that is overused though. Some silicones do require clarifying. That has to do with their weight, soluability, frequency and amount used, and how they are used in a formulation.

Clarifying the hair to remove conventional and natural product build-up does not have to be done with a harsh shampoo designed for that purpose. Switching products can reduce or eliminate build-up too. Not using a product that builds-up for a while and using a shampoo that does not build-up can remove product build-up. Sunsilk Lively Blonde Shampoo, a sodium laureth sufate based shampoo has done just that for me. It is the only shampoo I use.

Catnip treatments do not cause build-up for me. I do one following every shampoo. Lively Blonde Shampoo contains one silicone, has not caused build-up for me in over 3 years of use and removes enough of the catnip each time I wash my hair that there is no problem whatsoever. In the past, I used conventional conditioners and natural products that did cause build-up. When I stopped using them, Lively Blonde Shampoo removed the build-up over time.

The writer of this article is a Board Certified Dermatologist and his advice follows many of the great tips on the Long Hair Community boards regarding hair care.

There are different dimethicones. It is about reducing hair breakage, which can make it appear that hair is not growing. Silicones have a professionally respected and scientifically validated place in hair care.

In this referenced article, Dow Corning, admittedly a vested interest, showed that human hair subjected to very high heat was protected from damage better with silicone solutions, than without.

Drying oils , which include a number of natural oils, like sunflower oil, hemp oil, flax seed oil and more have been reported on the Long Hair Community Boards to be very difficult to remove from the hair and have caused problems with good reason. They leave a tough hard film on the hair when exposed to oxygen. They can do more damage to hair from build-up if not removed with clarifying in my opinion, than any silicone.

Sunflower oil

Silicones, uses and safety

Vinegar Rinses for hair and skin

2010-09-01T11:12:00.028-04:00

Vinegar "is essentially a solution of acetic acid, CH3CO2H, in water." All vinegars used as hair or skin rinses need to be well diluted. The pH of undiluted vinegar straight from the bottle is on average, between 2-3. Products with a pH of below 3.5 can be damaging to hair and skin, depending on how much is used and how often.

A vinegar rinse can help remove some natural product residues, soap scum and hard water minerals from hair. It cannot chelate metal salts nor can it replace a clarifier to remove conventional hair product build-up. Its acidity can help keep hair cuticles smooth and aligned, and make the hair shiny. It can be used to reacidify the skin following washing with an alkaline soap. It has been demonstrated to have antibacterial properties. However, that does not make it a health cure or the only cleaning solution to be used for other purposes.

With genuine or true vinegars, the flavours and aromas come from the acetic acid source. Any vinegar that is not white or clear has the potential to alter hair colour somewhat.

Malt Vinegar
Genuine malt vinegar has no added sugar or other additives. With an acetic acid content of 5% (the usual percentage of most vinegars not for specialty use like pickling), it will work on hair like white vinegar or apple cider vinegar or any other true vinegar with that percentage and no additives. Heinz malt vinegar "Ingredients: Malt Vinegar (Barley, corn malt), diluted with water to 5% acidity." In this case it is not a purely barley malt vinegar but it is a genuine malt vinegar and is suitable for cosmetic use.

One needs to read labels carefully. There are immitations labeled malt vinegar that do have additives. Vinegars with higher percentages of acetic acid, can need to be very diluted for cosmetic use, much more so than the average vinegar at 5% acetic acid content. Concentratied acetic acid is corrosive. Wiki on acetic acid is a good source of information and well referenced.

Malt vinegar
"barley is malted ... soaked in water and allowed to germinate before being roasted to dry it out. ... partial germination and roasting converts the natural starch in the barley into a sugar ... known as maltose. When the malted barley is fermented ... maltose will convert to alcohol. ... malted mixture is fermented ... the alcohol turns to vinegar ... has a high concentration of acetic acid giving it a distinctive tangy taste. ... some companies make immitations of this popular vinegar ... dyed with ingredients like caramel ... products may be labeled as malt vinegar ... make sure that the acid content is around 5%. ... seek out a genuine malt vinegar if you are going for the ... malty flavor."

Balsamic Vinegar
True balsamic vinegar has no added sugar either. Heinz balsamic vinegar "Ingredients: Burgundy wine vinegar dilute with water to 5% acidity, sulphur dioxide added to wine to protect color." A preservative was added to preserve the colour only.

Traditional balsamic vinegar is not considered to be the same as wine vinegar. Wiki is a good source on this too.
"Traditional balsamic vinegar is produced from the juice of just-harvested white grapes (typically, Trebbiano grapes) boiled down to approximately 30% of the original volume to create a concentrate or must, which is then fermented with a slow aging process which concentrates the flavours. The flavour intensifies over the years, with the vinegar being stored in wooden casks, becoming sweet, viscous and very concentrated."

Balsamic vinegar has been reported to work well on hair on the Long Hair Community boards, with no discernable difference to using other vinegars more typically used. Other than a possible preservative for colour it can be as basic as any other vinegar. The acetic acid content is what one needs to be most concerned about.

Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV)
At a 5% acetic acid content and used well diluted, as with any typical vinegar used on hair or skin, apple cider vinegar acts the same as the others. It can add a red tint to the hair. It is the acetic acid that is working to close the cuticles and smooth the hair, even with the mother in organic ACV being touted to do more. "Mother of vinegar is a term used to refer to the mass of scum that forms on top of cider when alcohol turns into vinegar, or to the cloudy substance that sometimes develops in stored vinegar. It is actually bacteria and yeast cells that have died."

Peer reviewed research on apple cider vinegar
"there is not enough scientific evidence to form a clear conclusion about the efficacy or safety of apple cider vinegar for any health condition. ... Dosing Adults (over 18 years old) No specific doses are supported by well-designed clinical trials. In general, 2 teaspoons of cider vinegar have been taken in 1 cup water three times daily. ... Topical and rectal preparations have also been used but safety is unclear." More on its Safety

Another innovation by an LHC member. This all natural recipe combats frizz and is cost effective.

2010-08-16T13:30:00.115-04:00

The recipe in this thread was not designed to be a frizz control recipe. This was a most fortuitous "accident". That does not however, make mariika's recipe any less brilliant and unique. The recipe makes perfect sense and the keys are the amount of and the constituents of the ingredient lemon juice, used to the amount of water.

When waxy conventional ingredients, silicone, or natural coating oils or butters, or combinations of them, prevent the hair from absorbing moisture vapour, you can get less to no frizz. However, the hair can become drier over time.

Mariika's recipe is a far better frizz control solution than trying to block out moisture from hair with those ingredients, that can be difficult to remove without clarifying. The recipe is also much more economical and hair friendly to use. And it easily washes out of the hair with shampoo.

I have friends who swear by it and are delighted that it works better than traditional frizz fighting products, without drying out the hair or irritating their scalps. The frizz fighting lasts for them between shampoos. The rinse has not been less effective when it is left in the hair and the hair is then towel dried or when the recipe has been rinsed out, lightly or well.

I can see no downside to this recipe at all.

Mariika's recipe is used after shampoo and conditioner as a final rinse.

Thread tips
1. Strain the lemon juice through a tea strainer into the tap water to remove pulp and any seeds or seed bits
and stir.
2. Pour the mix into a washed out shampoo bottle to take into the shower or apply standing over a sink.
3. Make sure to thoroughly cover all of the hair with the rinse.

The 2010 Safe Cosmetics Act and what it really means for consumers and cosmetic businesses

2010-08-07T08:43:00.028-04:00

Not all cosmetic companies follow safe manufacturing practices or regulations. The Act below can help prevent that even more in the U.S. and keep products from those companies from being sold abroad, by having all cosmetic companies register with the FDA and submit mandatory safety information that the public has access to, allowing consumers to make educated purchasing decisions.

This Act is long overdo and I hope it passes. The only businesses which will have problems with it in my opinion are the ones not complying with regulations in place now. The Act makes cosmetic manufacturers, formulators, distributors and suppliers more accountable for product and ingredient safety. There is a section requiring animal testing alternatives. Consumers can help the Bill pass. The lack of such legislation has been publicly lamented often. This Bill is important! Here is a the link to support The Safe Cosmetics Act of 2010.

The Safe Cosmetics Act of 2010: What it Means for Cosmetics Companies
"...There is a lot of misinformation circulating about the Safe Cosmetics Act of 2010 that it will "kill small businesses." This couldn’t be further from the truth and is an unfortunate misrepresentation of the facts. The Safe Cosmetics Act of 2010 contains specific provisions to protect and help small businesses ... Fee exemptions for small businesses with less than $1 million in annual sales. Data sharing and transparency: small businesses will benefit by having access to safety assessments conducted by other cosmetics companies and suppliers that are currently kept private ... "Producer right-to-know" provisions that will enable cosmetics companies to get full information from suppliers about toxicological data and safety information for cosmetic ingredients, including the chemicals in fragrance and preservatives. ..."

The Act
"SEC. 614. COSMETIC AND INGREDIENT TESTING AND SAFETY ... (a) Publicly Available Cosmetic and Ingredient Test Data - Not later than 1 year after the date of the enactment of the Safe Cosmetics Act of 2010, manufacturers and distributors of cosmetics and ingredients shall submit to the Secretary ... all reasonably available information in the possession or control of the manufacturer or distributor that has not previously been submitted to the Secretary regarding the physical, chemical, and toxicological properties of single or multiple chemicals listed on the cosmetic labels ..."

New ingredient labelling Canada

Fragrances, irritants, allergens and sensitivity

2010-07-29T23:42:00.043-04:00

A number of frangrances are recognized to be both allergens and sensitizers (26 main ones). I am very sensitive to hexyl cinnamal and cannot use a shampoo with that fragrance additive in it. One can react to a fragrance additive and think that they are reacting to something else in a cosmetic formulation. My symptoms were an itchy, "burning", painful scalp. By comparing ingredient labels I was able to identify exactly what caused my symptoms. Any shampoo with that fragrance in it caused the same reaction.

Risk management by labelling 26 fragrances? Evaluation of Article 10 (1) of the seventh Amendment (Guideline 2003/15/EC) of the Cosmetic Directive
"... It was found that more than 50% of these cosmetic and washing and cleansing products contain at least one of the 26 substances above the thresholds for labelling and that there are 14% of all products which contain strong allergens. Many consumers apparently still buy these products. ... the roles taken over by authorities and manufacturers in risk management of the "26 allergens" are relatively small compared with the responsibility carried by consumers. ... Regulations are not effective if they load the major responsibility for risk management on consumers, instead of on authorities and manufacturers. ... "

Here is the list of the 26 fragrances. Hexyl cinnamaldehyde, a synonym for hexyl cinnamal is on it.

The article below is most disturbing because children suffered for far too long before the correct diagnosis was made. This underlines 2 things I have touched on before, pH being important in hair and skin products and reading labels and hopefully identifying an offending ingredient. Quaternary ammonium compounds are in all conditioners, some shampoos and many other products and many quats are known irritants. It is how one reacts to them and the concentration used that can be problematic. While one cannot change what products are used in schools, public restrooms or hospitals, one can be selective about what products one uses at home.

Scrubbing Away Germs Can Backfire on Backsides
" ... toilet-seat contact dermatitis ... the incidence of this condition is rising in North America because of a resurgent popularity of exotic-wood toilet seats and frequent use of detergents that contain highly irritant/sensitizing compounds such as quaternary ammonium compounds ... etc. in public restrooms." ... detergents used in public restrooms and in hospitals are potentially more irritating to the skin than those used at home and that alkaline detergents are more likely to cause skin irritation than acidic detergents, because they perturb the body's natural acidic environment. ..."

I reacted to an improperly formulated hair conditioner years ago (that was subsequently reformulated because of the number of bad reactions to it) and I cannot to this day use a product formulated with the quat behentrimonium chloride, no matter how far down an ingredient list it is on the label. I became that sensitized to it. I could not find information on it at the time and used other conditioners with it in them before I was sure it was the problem. Each time I was exposed to it my sensitivity became worse. From the MSDS on behentrimonium chloride, Skin Contact: can cause skin irritation upon prolonged or repeated exposure.

A subscription is currently needed for the full version of the report.

Shea butter, allergens and product labelling

2010-07-21T21:42:00.018-04:00

Sometimes one can get a reaction to a product/ingredient and not realize that the ingredient is fairly well known as a potential allergen.

People often ask me what I know about an ingredient because they know I will search for the information if I cannot reply right away. I was recently asked about what someone recalled regarding shea butter and could not find in the current LHC threads. That is because that particular thread is archived. This is it, the LHC thread, where quidscrbis describes her severe allergic reaction to shea butter, a painful rash that lasted weeks.

As it turns out, there is more to shea butter than is commonly known. I have seen warnings online that it should not be used on broken skin. That makes sense to me with the research on increased bleeding below.
This 2009 peer reviewed research, states that shea butter may cause increased bleeding (taken internally) and the suggesed uses for shea butter both topically and internally are in question. There are also cautions for latex allergies and pregnancy and breastfeeding.

Then there is the question of labelling. This company, puts a warning on its label, for unrefined shea butter with essential oils.
"Warning : Please consult with a physician before using this product if you are pregnant or nursing. Not intended for use on children."

The West Africa Trade Hub (WATH) stated in 2005:
"Warnings regarding health hazards: The U.S. FDA does not require manufacturers or distributors of cosmetics to test the products for safety. However, the agency does strongly urge toxicological or other safety testing. A manufacturer or distributor’s product liability insurance carrier may require proof of product safety prior to issuing the insurance certificate. While the FDA does not require product safety testing, if safety is not adequately substantiated by the manufacturer prior to marketing the product, it does require the label statement: Warning – The safety of this product has not been determined.
WATH recommends that Contains Tropical Tree Nut Butter be included on the label due to the potential for allergic reaction."

2010 FDA cosmetic labelling requirements.

As to reports online that shea butter is good for irritated skin, this 1996 study reported that canola oil actually worked better than the other lipids tested, which included shea butter.
"The substances tested were hydrocortisone, petrolatum, fish oil, borage oil, sunflower seed oil, canola oil, shea butter, and fractions of unsaponifiable lipids from canola oil and shea butter. ... The visible signs of SLS-induced irritation were significantly less pronounced after treatment with the sterol-enriched fraction from canola oil than after treatment with water. This fraction, and hydrocortisone, reduced cutaneous blood flow. Furthermore, application of hydrocortisone, canola oil, and its sterol-enriched fraction, resulted in significantly lower TEWL than with water. The other lipids had no effect on the degree of irritation."

Connection between no shampoo and scalp problems and shedding?

2010-07-17T20:50:00.007-04:00

I am posting this directly from a thread I started on LHC some time ago.

July 17, 2010
Originally Posted by HotRag
"ktani: I like parabens better than potassium sorbate.
But they are very impopular. Everything is changing from paraberns to potassium sorbate now. And my scalp itch from that. At least when I left conditioner on scalp for 30 minutes, so maybe a quick shampoo will work for me. (Also all shampoos seams to HAVE TO smell fruits, (peach, apricot, mango). My skin does NOT like those parfumes.)
My shampoo that I like, changed formula, so after my two bottles, I have to use potassium sorbate preserved ones.
My good dermatologist (very good one, thinking herself, always looks for new info/facts) said she thinks parabens in the amounts used today are no problem. It was worse in the 60's. And she said potassium sorbate has potential to give itch.
About me not being able to use herbs or EO: it started last summer when I started to shed due to medication that f***s up scalp. But, I have to remember I stopped using henna some years ago when that started to itch. Not bad then, just applying day and until next wash."

My reply
I know. Unscupulous marketers scare people with information that is not accurate. Parabens are not evil. Potassium sorbate is not the only way to go to preserve a cosmetic and it needs to be used with another or other preservatives to be fit for cosmetic use from everything I have read on the subject.

I agree with you about fragrances. Many of the ones used today present new issues regarding sensitivities and reactions. I cannot use a product with the popular hexyl cinnamal fragrance. If they reformulate my current shampoo and add that I am off on another shampoo hunt and I do not look forward to that.

It is not easy trying to find conventional products that work and do not present problems for one's scalp and hair. It can be done though. I wish you well on that. I prefer to use the products of a well established company with a solid track record in the cosmetic business. Companies like Unilever, that makes the Sunsilk Lively Blonde Shampoo I use have the money and reputation to protect to make sure they do their research, so that I can rest assured that they are on top of things, and they are accountable. As a consumer I can make sure of that.

Some companies like to ignore or brush off customer complaints regarding their products. However, there are consumer resources to record such things. More people should avail themselves of these resources because they can affect how a company will continue to do business and be aware of consumer response. What we all do about things like that does matter and can make a difference.

Unilever on caution
"Our safety methods inherently take a precautionary approach. If we are not confident about the safety of an ingredient or product – for people, animals or the environment – we will not put the product onto the market. We therefore apply the principle of precaution, based on sound science."
http://unilever.com/sustainability/c...ous/index.aspx

Unilever on safety
"Unilever has a long-established Safety & Environmental Assurance Centre (SEAC) which assesses and assures the human, environmental and occupational safety of our operations and our products everywhere we operate around the world. Teams of scientific experts based at the Centre specialise in areas such as toxicology, environmental science, chemistry, microbiology, skin (dermatitis, allergy) and lifecycle assessment. They operate strictly independently of commercial considerations. ... We assess all new formulations and all changes to products to make sure they are safe for you to use. SEAC's safety assessment takes into account anyone who might be expected to use the product, from the very young to the old and infirm, and all reasonably foreseeable usage scenarios. It also covers all stages of the product, from manufacturing to distribution, use and disposal. ... We also continuously review our assessments in the light of the most recent research and findings."
http://unilever.com/sustainability/consumer/confidence/

Unilever on preservatives and allergies
"Certain ingredients have been identified as more likely to cause an allergic reaction in people who are more sensitive than others. Often we cannot leave these ingredients out altogether, because they perform an important function, such as keeping a product from spoiling and making it smell nice. Our expertise means we use these ingredients at the minimum level required for them to be effective.
When you buy one of our products, you have high expectations of its quality. For Unilever, this means that any product has to be both effective and safe to use for the entire time that it stays in your home. To ensure this quality over time, preservatives are often required. We follow strict guidelines regarding product quality, meaning that spoilage is highly unlikely in our products. We also minimise the levels needed in the product by ensuring that our manufacturing sites operate at the highest standards of hygiene."
http://unilever.com/sustainability/c...ies/index.aspx

That kind of research takes money and access to the latest cosmetic industry and government scientific reports. It also means they are "listening" to consumer responses. It is up to us to make our voices heard when needed.

I have nothing against small cosmetic companies, provided that they do their research and do not rely on consumers to do it instead of them, regarding the ingredients they offer in products. Believe it or not some do and use a disclaimer to do so.

Larger companies like Unilever, follow due process and know exactly what they are doing regarding ingredients and amounts, and follow current, cosmetic industry regulations, research and government research reports and directives. I will gladly pay for a product from a company behind it that is knowledgeable and responsible. While that cannot guarantee I will not react to an ingredient, I can know that safety at least is not an issue and that the ingredient has a legitimate function.

An update on my catnip cosmetic use and information on certified organic labelling

2010-07-01T12:23:00.028-04:00

I recently tried catnip buds as opposed to a mix of leaves and buds. The catnip buds I bought are excellent quality. However, after using buds only twice (I used a bit more the 2nd time) my hair has actually been drier both times. It seemed softer at first. I needed to see how my hair reacted and felt over the weeks between washing and treating. I used the buds the same way I used the mix. The Catnip blog post.

I prefer a mix. I just bought another tub of Hagen Catit Catnip Garden. The label states that it is 100% organic and pesticide free. There is something about the leaves and buds together that is better for my hair. I wanted to see if there was any real difference. I have in the past used organic leaf and flower or leaves and buds mixes with very few buds. Now I know what my hair needs and likes best, which as I thought is a more balanced mix. The Hagen brand is what I have used for the past 3 years approximately. I trust if for consistent quality. There are I am sure, other pet store brands that are excellent too.

Hagen is a Canadian Company, and their products are available internationally. One thing I like to do is check out the brand behind what I buy. I have spoken with a Hagen representative in the past about their catnip. Not all companies behind a brand of catnip grow their own product. What I like about pet supplied catnip is that the companies know about their product and can answer questions with knowledge. I have read enough research on catnip to know when a company does not and I have not had that happen with pet suppliers of catnip.

I have seen and read what some non pet suppliers of catnip have said about their catnip. Some know very little or nothing about what they actually offer for sale.Their prices for quantity per recommended single use packages of catnip for cosmetic use are to me, ludicrous (overpriced). The quantities I have read recommended for single use are wasteful and way too much, even for the longest, thickest hair. I have been buying catnip and using it cosmetically for hair and skin for almost 5 years. Catnip is extremely economical to use for personal care.

Having bought and used organic bulk catnip from health food stores with a huge variance in quality, I will not go back to spending my money on catnip of questionable quality and source again. Since I use catnip on my hair and skin, I will only purchase it from a pet supply company that has been around long enough and is still competitive in that business. That is no different to me than people questioning the quality and source of the henna they buy. If I were to grow catnip myself, there is a lot of information I would need to make sure that what I grow would meet the same standards of quality of an excellent quality, pet supplier catnip.

Some information on certified organic labelling - I find this most interesting.
U.S.
What seal to look for

"Keep in mind that even if a producer is certified organic, the use of the USDA Organic label is voluntary. At the same time, not everyone goes through the rigorous process of becoming certified, especially smaller farming operations."

Canada
"Understanding the terms used on the Label "The term organic does not mean the same as pesticide free or “no pesticides."

"Going organic: Growing demand, tougher regulations" 2008

Organic Products - new logo 2009

This exactly matches what the Hagen representative told me when I asked why their catnip was not labelled "certified organic".
"2009 Organic Products Regulations, Questions and Answers Q3 Are non-food products, such as aquaculture products, cosmetics, fibres, health care products, etc., included in the Canada Organic Regime? The regulations apply only to food products, animal feed and products used for the cultivation of plants. Each sector not included in the application of the regulations may continue to make organic claims. However, these products must also meet all other relevant federal legislation"

Certified organic labels worldwide
"There are more than 400 bodies claiming to offer organic certification services. Some are governmental agencies while most are private organizations."

Pure Cocoa Powder as Dry Shampoo

2010-05-15T10:42:00.002-04:00

The idea is not mine. This is a brilliant and innovative idea from a member of the Long Hair Community and it is reported to work well. No reports of stained pillow cases either. You do however, need the right cocoa. The one used here by systemaurora, who started the thread is "Hershey's unsweetend cocoa. .5g fat per tablespoon (and 1g fiber and 1g protein)."

Thinning hair through hormonal changes and types of damage

2010-03-27T10:58:00.053-04:00

I always appreciate the research Proctor and Gamble does on hair. It is cutting edge and very informative. Some of their research contributed to what I wrote about here, http://ktanihairsense.blogspot.com/2009/11/part-1-of-3-part-series-on-innovative.html.

The article quoted from below is about thinning hair through hormones and damage and the information on dandruff is most fascinating.
"... When P&G Beauty & Grooming, sequenced the genome of the microorganism that causes dandruff in 2007, they found that it secretes a variety of proteins onto the scalp and into the hair follicle (even below the skin surface!). Several of those proteins actually generates hydrogen peroxide within the hair follicle. The hydrogen peroxide softens the lipids and proteins on the hair shaft, resulting in oxidative damage to hair while still inside the follicle. With this chemical change, the hair loses its natural lubricant, the f-layer, resulting in hair that feels drier and rougher and is more susceptible to physical damage. ..." Note: There was an error in transcribing the original P&G dandruff article information into this one. It should read "... One of those proteins ..."

That means to me that treating dandruff effectively would be important as soon as possible. It also means to me that using coconut oil as a treatment while having dandruff can help prevent some of the peroxide damage. In this case, the cause of the damage is on going while the microorganism that secretes the proteins is present. Coconut oil can be applied to the scalp, where the peroxide damage is starting, inside the hair folicle.

Coconut oil has been found to be helpful for at least one type of fungal infection.
"... Coconut oil should be used in the treatment of fungal infections in view of emerging drug-resistant Candida species."

Argan oil is high in oleic acid and would not be suitable for this purpose. See links below.

Other oils do not have the chelating abilities of coconut or argan oils but are high in oleic acid and should be avoided for use on the scalp by those prone to dandruff. These include: camellia oil, canola oil, grapeseed oil, olive oil, sesame oil and sunflower oil.

I am not suggesting however, that coconut oil alone be used to treat dandruff. Dandruff is best diagnosed and treated properly, through a doctor like a general practitioner or a dermatologist, to identify if it is truly dandruff or another condition.

More on the true cause of dandruff from P&G: sebum feeds the fungi, a genetic inflammatory response to oleic acid
"... As the Malassezia globosa microorganisms consume sebum, they leave behind oleic acid. Oleic acid is a component of human sebum that is intensely irritating when it is isolated, and oleic acid has been shown to induce dandruff-like flaking when scalp conditions are right. ... Researchers applied oleic acid to the scalps of dandruff-prone individuals, and the skin developed abnormally shaped corneocytes and excess lipid similar to the morphology that occurs in dandruff. ... "

What works and what is in the future for the treatment of dandruff

Setting The Record Straight About The Safety of Fats, Oils, Petrolatum, Iron Oxides And Our Lungs

2010-01-27T21:39:00.023-05:00

While researching the safety of Leleshwa essential oil, I came across this MSDS, that states while it is not a carcinogen, it does state that it "may cause lung damage if swallowed." I had no idea how that worked but I noted it.

While I was double checking the risks of inhaling iron oxide powder, I came across this research, that states while they found no link to inhaling iron oxides and lung cancer, there is a link between occupational workers and exposure to oil mists and bladder cancer.

I followed both up. First the oil mists. The assocoation between the mists and cancer is thought to be about contaminants in the oil.

The same is thought to be about a weak link between populations exposed to iron oxides and cancer, where there is no exact cause identified. As stated here, there is no evidence that occupational inhalation of iron oxides alone, alone being the operative word, can cause anything more than benign lung inflamation that does not restrict lung function.

Where is this leading and what does it have to to with is blog? It has do do with half truths and misinformation on the internet and elsewhere, being perpetrated by marketers to generate profits, by not making all of the information known on products, that may be competing with their own.

Moving on to petrolatum and mineral oil, I came across this Wikipedia entry on petroleum jelly and the section on "improper uses" leading to lipid or more properly known as lipoid pneumonia, which when you click on it, gives a definition of the two kinds there are but not the causes in detail.

The truth about refined petrolatum, including mineral oil is that it is safe to use when it is USP or cosmetic grade. The details about that are in a very well written and referenced article, from a company that produces petrolatum for industrial and cosmetic use.

The interesting thing is that the PHA contaminants often incorrectly associated with cosmetic grade petrolatum may not be associated with lung cancer alone for occupational workers, but may actually be a combination of high levels and another contaminant.

The most fascinating thing about all of this to me has been understanding exactly how our bodies function regarding how fats can get into our lungs and cause lipoid pneumonia, which although rare does happen and it is not restricted to the use of petrolatum or mineral oil. It can be caused by the aspirstion of any fat, including vegetable oils.

First some useful definitions. Vegetable oil, is defined scientifically more broadly than one would think. Aspiration, simply means breathing in. I found it very helpful to get a better understanding of just how we breathe and the anatomy of the lung.

Among the types of oils that can be aspirated, animal oil causes more potential problems than vegetable oil, which in turn causes more than mineral oil. The oils are not intentionally introduced into the lungs and that can result from cultural practices as well as happen accidentally through a problem with a swallowing response.

Interestingly enough, the question about lipoid pneumonia and petroleum jelly was asked to a doctor from the Mayo Clinic, who gave a very good reply. It is not the best idea to use it inside the nose but normal use is no problem.

Back to that Leleshwa oil MSDS. There is no way that ingesting the essential oil can cause lung damage. That needs to be addressed by who wrote the MSDS. Essential oils need care with use. Some can be restricted for use and are toxic. That is a whole other matter. Petrolatum USP is not a cancer risk nor is it contaminated or may be contaminated. There are regulations regarding that, that are very strict. Occupational workers may be at less risk than previously thought for some products and there are restrictions and regulations in place to protect them too.

Iron oxides do not present a risk for inhalation to the consumer who wants to buy a small amount to use and does not abuse it and in any case, they are not known to be carcinogens.

Out of Africa Part II

2009-12-29T18:07:00.015-05:00

Another oil from Africa is gaining attention, Calodendrum capense (Cape Chestnut) oil or as it is more commoly referred to, yangu oil. It is a non-toxic, non-drying oil that is used in Africa in soaps and cosmetics and is reported to have UV protective properties.

It was brought to my attention by a forum member at LHC and I followed up on researching information about it. The forum member, Tangerine, who informed me about the oil in action is enjoying it as a hair oil. It had been mentioned in another forum thread but no one had tried it to my knowledge or reported on using it.

PACT Kenya has funded a project to conserve the Calodendrum capense trees and help local people earn a second income from the oil. The oil has been singled out by cosmetic industry watchers (See Earthoil in the Cosmetic Concepts, Amsterdam link below) as something different, and the oil is credited with having an affinity for hair proteins. That means it can penetrate the hair shaft and bond to the keratin in hair. I will update more information on this oil as it becomes available.

The only oil credited with helping to prevent protein loss from hair by penetrating the hair shaft and bonding with hair protein in a research study in the past is coconut oil. Since that study other oils have been looked at in comparison to see if they can produce the same results. From what I have read, most other oils cannot penetrate the hair as deeply or bond to hair protein as well as coconut oil. It will be very interesting to see how well yangu oil fares.

While there is renewed interest in kukui nut oil for example being a treatment for wrinkles and psoriasis, a pilot study done in 2005 showed that the oil did not reduce psoriasis symptoms significantly and in a previous study, the oil was not significantly different to other oils for skin penetration. I prefer to see studies myself if at all possible, to verify that studies reported claiming certain things actually exist.

First forum report by Tangerine on yangu oil as a hair oil

Updated Tangerine forum report

Yangu oil mentioned as having an affinity to hair proteins in a chemist's report on oils

The LHC thread

Yangu oil MSDS

PACT Keyna Project

WildLiving.com and cape chestnut oil

Wild Living Technical Team

Cosmetic Concepts, Amsterdam

Coconut oil study

2005 kukui nut oil study

1993 kukui nut oil study

A Breakthrough in MS Treatment: A Departure From The Theme Of This Blog To Help Get This More Attention

2009-12-23T11:48:00.116-05:00

I have been told that this is not getting press everywhere. It may well prove to be an answer for MS patients. One must go through one's doctor and every case is different.

UPDATES
April 14, 2010
A recording of the MS webcast with Dr. Zamboni and MS specialists. Dr. Zamboni does not recommend the use of stents and does recommend that neurosurgeons consider offering the treatment "on compassionate grounds" to certain patients.
"A live Web forum on CCSVI and what it could mean to people living with MS."
http://hosted.mediasite.com/mediasite/Viewer/?peid=5625f9f8badd40eab1b1a3ebb41a8ba6

March 10, 2010
"MSRC Comments On Stanford University Reportedly Halting CCSVI Treatments After Two Serious Adverse Events
Helen Yates, Chief Executive of the Multiple Sclerosis Resource Centre (MSRC) said: "Whilst the case of the man who had to have open heart surgery to deal with a slipped stent is accurate, the case of the woman who had a haemorrhage is less so. The lady in question had a pre-existing condition that meant she was much more susceptible to haemorrhage, in fact it has been ascertained since her death that it was nothing to do with the procedure at all and was, in fact, an adverse drug reaction to one of the blood thinning drugs exacerbating a genetic familial problem. ..."
http://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/181717.php

CCVSI LINKS
Home
"Last September, at the UIP 50 Meeting in Montecarlo experts in venous malformations from 47 different countries unanimously voted in favour of the diagnostic and therapeutic observations made by Professor Paolo Zamboni."
http://www.fondazionehilarescere.org/eng/

Activities
http://www.fondazionehilarescere.org/eng/attivita.html

Contact
http://fondazionehilarescere.org/eng/hil_risponde.html

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Natural Products For Hair And Skin

2009-12-21T13:34:00.045-05:00

I have been researching information on natural products for cosmetic use for quite a long time. I have searched the literature available in books and online. Books can be out of date by the time they go to press as new research becomes available and is released very quickly. Information is constantly being updated. There are many reputable online sources for information about plants and trees and the oils, barks, extracts and other versions used in cosmetics.

Since the 1970s and the resurgence of natural products becoming mainstream popular again today, I have seen almost no scientific information available, become a lot of excellent scientific information. This information is accessible to anyone interested in taking the time and effort to look for it.

The most important thing to remember about any natural product is whether or not it is safe to use, and then in what quantities it is safe. Sometimes there are few restrictions recommended on quantities. Sometimes there are many restrictions. Governments are now beginning to regulate natural products so that an industry that has previously had no restrictions put upon it will fall in line with food and drug regulations on safety, labelling, doses and precautions clearly listed on the container in addition to any insert.

Some natural products like foods such as sage, and other herbs are perfectly safe in the amounts usually eaten but taken in excess, there can be adverse effects. One cannot assume that a food item can automatically be used in large quantities frequently as a cosmetic. Researching a product carefully for current information is the best "remedy" of all. Plants and extracts can act differently topically as opposed to ingestion but not in all cases and there is the issue of skin absorption that is not to be discounted. Cosmetic products are tested for skin absorption and safety and are regulated with regard to the amount of an ingredient used. However, not all natural cosmetic products are regulated, even though they are on the market. Buyers should beware!

Much more is now known about natural product interactions with drugs, and long term use effects. Some people rely on traditional use as the measure of a natural product’s safety. Traditional use of a natural product does not signify its safety. If one looks at cosmetic history throughout the world, many natural toxic substances were used both medicinally and cosmetically in many cultures at various times and the toxicity of them was not recognized until much later. Lead in cosmetics was used in Ancient Rome and during Elizabethan times. It can still be found to contaminate some cosmetics today like kohl, a popular eye make-up, as stated in this FDA advisory, and this one from Health Canada.

Many traditional herbs are used in combinations and at doses known to be safe by those trained in how to use them. The safety of many of the products in question is being validated by science. In other instances, the plants or herbs have shown no evidence of efficacy or safety.

I believe that some of the answers to cosmetic questions, including hair care can indeed come from natural products used on their own, in combinations, or added to conventional formulations. The key questions of concern are about the safety and proper use of such products, as information becomes known.

Out of Africa

2009-12-08T01:51:00.031-05:00

There are some interesting projects and developments happening around the world with indigenous plants and their traditional uses.

Africa has a rich history of traditional plant use that is now being looked at to help the people in certain areas develop businesses and conserve nature at the same time. Research into plants with a history of medicinal use is being done to validate folklore and science is doing just that in a number of cases.

One such plant is the Lelechwa or Leleshwa shrub, Tarchonanthus camphoratus L. Traditionally the plant is used in various ways and one of those is that it is burned and the smoke inhaled to help respiratory problems. Animals that rub against the plant were observed to have unblemished skin compared to the same animal species in areas where the plant does not grow. The essential oil is now being added to cosmetics. Like any essential oil, there are cautions for its use in quantity. Essential oils are not meant to be used in quantity or straight but blended and not ingested. This plant contains camphor and its essential oil precautions and uses are remarkably similar to the cautions and recommendations for pure camphor essential oil.

The plant itself has been shown in research to be even more valuable in raw form. There are other constituents that contribute to its strength as an antibacterial, antiviral product. And like camphor essential oil used in a vaporizer, the smoke of the leleshwa shrub, has been shown to be effective for respiratory ailments, as one of the traditional uses recommends. The leleshwa shrub is a sustainable resource.

In 2008, a U.S. patent was granted to inventor Kuki Gallman for a hair treatment that contains the aqueous portion of leleshwa which was normally discarded during the steam distillation process to obtain the essential oils. It had been noted that the aqueous portion of leleshwa can promote or stimulate human hair growth.

Kuki Gallman's company Africa Botanica® sells certified organic products which will be available in Europe and the U.S.

More information can be found in the following:

2009 Seed Award Winners: Gold

Kuki Gallmann Patent

Traditional uses

The Gallmann Memorial Foundation

The Story of Lelechwa

Sveva Gallmann and her commitment to African heritage

Antibacterial and antifungal activities of Tarchonanthus camphoratus essential oil

Leleshwa Essential Oil MSDS

How plant constituents work together

The antimicrobial activity of Tarchonanthus camphoratus

Validation of smoke inhalation therapy

Camphor Essential oil

More on Innovative Approaches to Hair Care: Ochres, non toxic natural stains

2009-11-19T19:49:00.045-05:00

There are natural clays that have staining abilities and staying power as pigments. One of these is ochre, which comes in a variety of colours. The pigment is from iron oxides, which are considered to be non toxic. There are cautions about inhaling these powders, although they are not considered to be hazardous products.

They could be used in a paste form to deepen the stain or a liquid form, (the powder soaked in water to release stain).

How permanent are such stains? That depends in part on the tap water one uses. Hair absorbs both iron and copper from water and cosmetic products.

However, since coconut and argan oils can both chelate iron, I suggest trying a heavy oiling to try to remove the stain if desired before buying a product on the market to do that, which may be harsh on the hair.

The Himba tribe women of Namibia Africa, use a mixture of red ochre, goat fat and herbs to cover their hair and bodies to give themselves a much prized red colour and protect themselves from the ravages of the sun. Iron oxides offer UV protection.

As with anything untried, patch test beforehand and strand test to see shade results. Strand testing can be dome most easily on a clean, shed hairball. The shed hair can also be separated to create a hair swatch for testing.

Ochres can be options for natural hair colour stains. Cosmetic grade natural iron oxides can be used instead of the clay. Iron oxides are also produced synthetically. If a vendor does not stipulate if the oxides are natural versus synthetic, or all natural, ask them to be sure if all natural is preferred.

I have listed two vendors of cosmetic grade iron oxides at the end of the list below and 2 vendors of natural ochre that look good to me from what they have to say, and I checked out the MSDS Sheets available. There are more sources. Comparison shop. Ask vendors questions if you have any concerns.

Ochres

Iron Oxide Safety

Brown Ochre

Himba Woman

Suncreen Update

Pigments used in Tattooing

Questions About Pigments

Discussion and more here

Cautions

Iron Oxides: Cosmetic Grade Vendor

Iron Oxides: Cosmetic Grade Vendor   Their MSDS Sheets

Natural Ochre Vendor  Their MSDS Sheets   Their U.S. Retail Vendor   Their U.S. Retail Vendor MSDS Sheets Safety Guidelines
From this vendor "Note: Our pigments are not sold for cosmetic, pharmaceutical or food use. Use care when handling any dry pigment. Avoid breathing pigment dust."  Their ochres are non hazardous though. See MSDS sheets.

Natural Ochre Vendor