KumanoKodo - World Heritage

Deciphering a Japanese hiking map

2013-05-13T05:35:00.002-07:00

You don't need to read Japanese to be able to decipher a hiking map. However, if you decide to go on a hike on your own, ask for help from Japanese friends or staff at information booths. There are many parts of the Kumano Kodo which are somewhat unclear as to where the paths may be going.
Historically, throughout the 1200 years of pilgrimages, the paths have changed from era to era. The prefectural and local governments have made every effort to mark the paths clearly, but one can still stray off the path inadvertently.
Look at the following map and study how to use it. The Legend (8) has been translated into English to give you an idea of map marking.

Click on the map below to enlarge it.

(1)Shows the elevation of land, 0 meters being at sea level and 900 meters
(2952.7 feet) being the highest area of this section of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route. It is important to notice how high the mountains or slopes are in order to gauge how difficult an ascent or descent will be.
(2)
Shows the approximate time needed to complete this section of the route. However, it is important to consider your own physical ability and whether or not you will have a guided hike. This time is the optimal time for someone reasonably fit. Add more time if you need frequent rests. If you are having a guided hike, double the time. If you are having a guided hike with an interpreter from one language to another, triple the time. Don't forget to factor in time for toilet breaks and time for eating.
(3)
The words in the blue box are the name of a place or thing of interest. In this case, it is Jagata-jizo, a small shrine. Note there is an approximately 200 meter drop in elevation to this point on the trail.
(4)
The words in the white oval are the location of ojis, the 99 shrines along the pilgrimage route from downtown Osaka to Nachi Taisha (Grand Shrine).
(5)
The thick orange lines represent the Kumano Kodo trail.
(6)
This shows a "pop-out" portion of the map with local details illustrated.
(7)
The "Legend" shows symbol marks for reading the map. The illustrations vary a lot, but the content seldom does.
(8)
The illustration shows the number of the location along the Kumano Kodo. It is important for hikers to be aware of their location at all times in case of emergencies. The emergency services of all towns in the vicinity know the location of the markers in order to locate injured people. Some areas of the trails are in remote areas where there is little mobile phone access, especially some deep valleys. In some remote areas without power lines, emergency telephone booths operated by solar power can be found.

Tanabe - Gateway to Kumano (Part 1)

2013-04-30T04:32:00.001-07:00

Tanabe is a wonderful base to begin your exploration of the Kumano region.
There are several towns and cities in Japan called Tanabe. It is easy to go to a different location instead of going to Kii-Tanabe.
The Kii Peninsula is the location of Tanabe of Kumano Kodo fame. It is located south east of Osaka at the southern most point of Honshu Island, the main island of Japan.
Kii is also the old name for the area before
Japan was unified into one country.  It was called Kii-no-Kuni, literally the “Country of Kii.”  References to Kii-no-Kuni can be found in the oldest known Japanese literature, Kojiki, written in the seventh century.  It is recorded that the first emperor of Japan, Emperor Jimmu passed through Kii-no-Kuni on his way to Nara where the first court of ancient Japan was established.
There are three other towns called Tanabe in the Kansai region that encompasses the prefectures of Mie, Nara, Wakayama, Kyoto, Osaka, Hyogo, and Shiga.  It is not surprising given that “Ta “(田) means “rice field” and “be”(辺) means “area.”  There are many rice fields in Japan.
Kii-Tanabe is the third largest city in Japan in terms of area although the population is low for such a wide area of 1026.77 ㎢.  There are 80,117 people in 35,714 households in the city.  You can drive more than two hours from downtown Tanabe to the outlying areas and still be within the city limits.  The most populated area of Tanabe hugs the coastline along Tanabe Bay.
Tanabe is the second largest city in Wakayama Prefecture and has a wide variety of restaurants, shopping areas, fishing ports and drinking areas.
(The next post in this series about Tanabe will be coming soon.)

Hiking Through the Seasons

2013-04-05T15:53:00.000-07:00

On the Kii Peninsula, there are four seasons plus the rainy season. Summers are hot and humid. Fall and spring are comfortable with temperatures in the low 20s (70s for Fahrenheit). Winters are short and mild. The rainy season usually lasts from the end of June to the end of July when the temperatures ramp up and the humidity become quite uncomfortable. It is a six-week period of rainy days interspersed with sunny days. Hiking through all seasons is possible, and careful planning is necessary to have a great experience.

World Heritage Center Opens

2009-07-21T21:36:00.000-07:00

Kumano Kodo finally has a new World Heritage Center. It's a beautiful building, and it has a natural simplicity which is in harmony with its surroundings.
On July 3, 2009, the new facility was opened in
Hongu-cho in the city of Tanabe. It is located near Kumano Hongu Taisha grand shrine. The facility consists of two one-story buildings separated by an open space. It has simple lines and is made of unadorned wood.
The building on the left houses an extensive display of photos which capture the spirit of the many aspects of the Kumano Kodo World Heritage sites.
There is also a large hall with a large screen projecting scenes along the pilgrimage routes. Panels in both Japanese and English highlight aspects of the Kumano Kodo and the history behind it. A chainsaw wood carving of a practicioner of the Shugendo mountain priest sect is impressive; dressed for hiking in traditional style. The center is staffed by knowlegdeable volunteers (in Japanese).
The building on the right houses the office of the World Heritage Center in Tanabe.
There are many pamphlets and brochures in Japanese, English and limited information in a few other languages. There is a video of images along the pilgimage routes and areas of the world heritage sites. There are a few interesting experiential exhibitions also.
The layout of the facilities is pleasing and soothing to the spirit. There are clean restrooms and places to sit and enjoy learning more about the world heritage. People interested in hiking along the routes will be able to find maps and suggested routes for walks.
The center is open daily from 09:00 to 17:00 year round.

Robbers deface and steal statue's head

2008-06-22T07:28:00.000-07:00

Kiiminpo newspaper photo June 20, 2008

-->On June 20, 2008, citizens of Tanabe City learned of the defacing of the statue known as “Hashiori Pass Gyubadoji.” The Chinese characters for Gyubadoji can be separated into the parts – Gyu meaning cow, ba meaning horse, and doji meaning a child (in this instance, the young Ex-emperor, Kazan-in). This statue is on the Nakahechi section of the Kumano Kodo World Heritage pilgrimage route and is often used as a symbol of the
Kumano Kodo. This pilgrimage trail stretches from Kyoto to Nachi in the south of Wakayama Prefecture with the Nakahechi area. Gyubadoji is on the first section of the route after it turns inland towards the first of three grand shrines, Kumano Hongu Taisha. It is little more than a twenty minute hike from the main highway leading to Hongu-cho and Kumano Grand Taisha, and it is a relatively easy hike which is popular with visitors to Kumano.

The statue was defaced with the head of Kazan-in, a retired emperor from the 10th century, being taken.

Most citizens and guides of the world heritage site were shocked and baffled by the theft. It is particularly incongruous because as statues go, it is not very old. It was erected around 1891. The sculptor is unknown.
There are many valuable artifacts of cultural, architectural, and religious significance throughout the Kumano region. In keeping with the spirit of the pilgrimage route, let us pray that such senseless disregard for our common world heritage is not betrayed again.

Kumano Sanzan

2007-08-17T19:05:00.000-07:00

The Kumano Sanzan encompasses the entire region on the southern tip of Wakayama Prefecture in the Kansai region of Japan. It is a mountainous area with deep valleys and rugged mountains. While most of the region is covered with virgins stands of broad leaf evergreens, areas here have been settled since time began in these islands of Japan.
The Kumano Sanzan is in the middle of the five pilgrimage
areas designated as UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 2004 on the Kii Peninsula. It is a unique peninsular area encompassed by rugged mountains. The Chinese characters, 三（san) 山 (zan) is literally speaking, "three mountains." The three mountains which are set like jewels among the southern peaks of the Kii Mountains have been sacred areas in Japan from time immemorial. It is said that the Japanese gods of creationist mythology came here to create the Japanese islands from cosmic morass.

Pilgrimage routes became well established in the Heian era.

2007-08-16T18:41:00.001-07:00

The Kumano Sanzan is in the middle of the five pilgrimage areas designated as UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 2004 on the Kii Peninsula. It is a unique peninsular area encompassed by rugged mountains. The Chinese characters, 三（san) 山 (zan) is literally speaking, "three mountains." The three mountains which are set like jewels among the southern peaks of the Kii Mountains have been sacred areas in Japan from time immemorial. It is said that the Japanese gods of creationist mythology came here to create the Japanese islands from cosmic morass.

UNESCO World Heritage Pilgrimage Routes

2007-08-15T19:06:00.000-07:00

In 2004, the residents of the Kinan region rejoiced to learn of the finalization of listing the sacred areas and pilgrimage routes of the Kii Peninsula area of Japan. Many residents have always been aware of the pilgrimage routes and may have even walked them as students on school excursions. However, now residents have finally awakened to the many-faceted heritage which has existed running through our backyards and along the myriad paths of the pilgrimage routes. Sometimes it takes an outside influence as well-known as the UNESCO World Heritage Site's committee's interest.
The most frequently walked paths leading to the Hongu Kumano Grand Shrine (Hongu Kumano Taisha本宮熊野大社）are in the city of Tanabe.

2007-08-14T19:42:00.000-07:00

There were four areas designated as World Heritage sites - officially known as Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range. The areas include Mie, Nara, and Wakayama Prefectures. The designated sites are the sacred areas of 1. Yoshino and Omine 2. Kumano Sanzan and 3. Koyasan, and 4. the pilgrimage routes linking the sacred areas.
The area embodies the fusion of Shintoism (the ancient indigenous belief system of Japan) and Buddhism (introduced into Japan
in the 6th century) coexisting along the pilgrimage paths through dense forests, along high mountain ridges and along coastal areas. The area abounds in waterfalls, rivers and hot springs. Japanese jinja (shrines), Buddhist temples and historical artifacts dot the landscape. Each has a story to tell.

What to Expect on a Guided Hike

2007-08-14T01:09:00.000-07:00

A hike or walk with a guide enriches your understanding on many levels. Guides come from many walks of life and all ages. A guide's goal is to guide visitors (in our case, in the English language) and interpret the cultural, historical and natural heritage of an area with area-specific qualification usually issued or recognized by an appropriate authority.
Good guides are lifetime students of their particular field of expertise - continually studying for a deeper understanding.

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Guides on the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes must have a grasp of history, the natural environment, literature, local legends, mythology, and the relationship of the fusion of religions. In addition, an ability to be a story-teller, a sense of humor, and a deep understanding of Japan are necessary. All these qualities are not enough though. A thorough knowledge of the trails and precautions for hiking as well as physical stamina are also necessary.

For a guided hike please contact us.

TIEGA guides are certified through
recognition of Wakayama Prefecture government. Tourism Bureau

Five routes to Kumano

2007-08-13T23:14:00.000-07:00

Kii-ji

The Kii-ji route begins in Kyoto. In ancient times, court nobles and their entourages boarded boats and floated down the Yodo River (Yodogawa) to Osaka. From Osaka, people traveled by a variety of methods. Some went by ship along the coastline to Tanabe, and other walked. Some rode horses. Nobility were often carried by porters in covered litters somewhat like miniature stagecoaches built for one person. But, once pilgrims reached Takijiri-oji on the Nakahechi route, all pilgrims had to walk through the sacred mountains to the three grand shrines to worship before the gods. Along the way there are shrines called oji (王子）which literally means a "child prince." They vary in size and importance. There were 99 oji from Osaka to Kumano Nachi Taisha, but some have fallen to ruin and little more than markers remain in some cases. Among the oji, five were important places for holding religious and cultural ceremonies and activities. They are called Gotai-oji.

Nakahechi

The starting point of the Nakahechi route is in the city of Tanabe. The city has flourished in commerce and culture since ancient times. Many pilgrims came from Osaka by ship and began their pilgrimage from Tanabe. Two routes developed at different times in history, hence the first section of the orange lines shows two paths of the routes. In the Heian era (9th to 12th century), the path wound through Tanabe towards the Tonda River (Tondagawa) passing by several ojis. In the reign of the Tokugawa shoguns, pilgrims bypassed the lower area of the Tonda River by crossing over Shiomi Pass (Shiomi-tōge). The orange lines on the right are not two separate routes. They are a loop starting in Hongū, progressing to Shingū and on to Nachi then returning to Hongū.

Kohechi

The Kohechi route is the path between Koyasan and the Kumano Sanzan area. There are few roads into this remote area, so it is less frequently traveled than other paths. Of particular note is the route over Mt. Hatenashi (Hate-nashi-san). Thirty-three small shrines mark the path from Hongū to Totsukawa. The mountain is 1,114 meters high with steep ascents and descents. These days, hikers should be in good condition before tackling it. Unlike most of the other routes, there are few places to get water or lodging, so most people opt for camping along the way and carrying a large supply of water.

Ōhechi

The Ōhechi route was often chosen by people involved in the arts such as poets. The route was longer than the Nakahechi route and therefore was more costly. There are many headlands, and the most southern area of the main island of Japan, Honshu, is located here. The views of the ocean along the way were, and still are, quite spectacular. This has been the fodder of countless poems. Only three sections of it have been declared world heritage sites; Tonda-zaka, Hotoke-zaka, and Nagai-zaka. Nagai-zaka lives up to its name as a long, long upward slope. It is wise to avoid it during hot summer months.

Iseji

The Ise route starts at Ise Grand Shrine (Isejingū) and runs along the coast of Mie Prefecture and diverges at Kumano City to go to Hongū Taisha (Grand Shrine) into the mountains or to Shingū's Hayatama Taisha by continuing along the coast. Travelers from the northern part of Japan often came on this route after making a pilgrimage to the grand shrines of Ise.

Buddhism in Japan

2007-08-01T01:21:00.000-07:00

Buddhism was introduced in the 6th century.