La Vache Espagnole

would you rather backpack or be an expat?

2011-05-28T11:11:00.003-05:00

Among those who have left home behind to experience and see the world, there are the backpackers and there are the expats.

A backpacker is a master of minimalism - he takes the bare essentials on the road with him and embraces the nomadic lifestyle. The expat arrives in a new country and carves out a home for himself. The expat adapts to his surroundings and takes in the new culture within the context of work, school or family.

Neither way of seeing the world is superior, and indeed, at times the lines blur between the two.

While I was teaching in China, I had the chance to explore Malaysia, Thailand, Laos and Vietnam for a total of six weeks. Beautiful, mind-blowing and exhilarating, all of it. But every new place I visited, I knew I wasn’t staying long enough to truly understand the what I was seeing or experiencing. I was left with the feeling that I was merely brushing the surface of something spectacular.

That’s why, in my second stab at hoisting the pack on my back for some nomadic wandering, I promised myself I would take it all in at a slower pace.

And yet, even with my newfound snail-pace, exploring Buenos Aires and Argentinian Patagonia for over two months, I never quite got into the swing of the backpacker lifestyle.

I would say it was a disappointment that I’m a failure at long-term backpacking, but if I’m being honest with myself, I’d have to acknowledge that deep down I’ve always known that my style is much more suited to the expat way.

At all of this brings me to my biggest piece of news.

I live in Chile now.

I’m teaching English and living in Santiago de Chile. I’ve found myself an apartment, unpacked my backpack and settled into a discovery of a new country at my own speed.

Stay tuned for more about my Chilean adventures!

___________

Thank you all for your concern and support in the ordeal with my cousin's detainment. He is home safe now thanks to you and everyone who helped sign the petition and spread the word.

Please keep his colleague and friend, Anton Hammerl in your thoughts and prayers. He was a photojournalist killed in the capture. He leaves behind his wife an kids.

3 brave women: a mother's day post

2011-05-08T14:02:00.009-05:00

From left to right: My aunt, Diane; my grandfather, Elliot;

my grandmother, Olga; my mom, Rita

This post is dedicated to three special mothers in my life.

Olga

My grandmother, Olga, is a remarkable woman. Born in Guayaquil, Ecuador she moved to the United States at the age of 20 when she married my grandfather. She became the young mother of two beautiful daughters and brought them up with love. Olga was widowed at a young age, but her strength and resilience kept her going.

She is now the matriarch of a large and growing family. She is greatly loved by 2 daughters, 7 grandchildren, and 3 great-grandchildren.

Olga, we look up to you for your strength, your great ability to love and your courage. We love you for your sassiness, your laughter and your warmth. Happy Mother's Day.

Rita

My mother is my best friend and I am the luckiest girl in the world. The youngest of two daughters, she was brought up in the small American town of Keene, New Hampshire.

After graduating from college she bought herself a one way ticket to Spain - and act of bravery that has inspired me and shaped the way I have chosen to live my life.

My mother is good. She knows how to speak to people and make them feel special. She loves her children with all of her heart and would do anything for us.

Mom, they say girls worry about becoming their mother. I could only hope to be half the person my mother is.

Diane

I saved my Aunt Diane for last on this Mother's Day post because she needs our prayers the most at this time. And she needs to be recognized for the truly amazing person that she is.

Diane is my mother's older sister. She is a nurse practitioner who was made for the job. She is intelligent, caring and good. The mother of 5 children, she has the strength of ten mothers and is braver than anyone I know.

When her son was captured in Libya over a month ago, my heart went out to her. It has been over a month since Jim's capture and Diane is proving to be as strong and full of faith as ever. A mother's capacity for love is so great. Jim is loved by so many, but especially by his mom.

Diane, you are amazing and I love you like a second mother. We are here for you and we are praying for you.

The world needs more mothers like the three amazing individuals I've introduce you to today.

Do something for me. On this Mother's Day, tell your mom you love her.

__________

If you want to help support the release of my cousin, Jim here are some things you can do:

1) Sign the petition

2) Print out the poster and post it on the facebook page

3) Write a letter or make a phone call directly to your US congressional representatives, supporting their diplomatic efforts to secure a timely release. You can find their contact information here.

4) Use any personal contacts you have with media outlets and the government to publicize the issue. Let's keep the issue in the public eye!

Thanks, from the bottom of my heart.

free james foley, journalist held captive in libya

2011-04-10T08:16:00.006-05:00

Me, my brother and my cousins in 2003. Jim is on the far right.

My cousin Jim is the bravest man I've ever known. A freelance journalist, he has travelled to Iraq, Afghanistan and Libya in an effort to share the most pressing news with his unique first-hand perspective.

His videos, expertly filmed in the heat of battle have always sent a chill down my spine because they truly bring home the fact that my dear cousin is in the thick of protests, war, bombs and gunfire.

On Thursday, April 7, we received word that he, along with 3 other journalists, has been captured by forces loyal to Gaddafi. They are said to be in government hands and they are expected to be taken to Tripoli today which will be the safest place for them at the moment. Despite this report, we haven't heard any confirmation of this. Their exact location is not known at this time.

James Foley, American Clare Gillis, Spaniard Manu Brabo and South African Anton Hammerl need your support.

I ask two things:

Please take a few seconds to "like" the Help Free James Foley and Clare Gillis facebook page for updates on the situation.

And most importantly, please sign the petition that will be sent to organizations that may be able to secure Jim's freedom.

And tell all your friends and family to sign it. Please. Thank you from the bottom of my heart.

argentina's ruta 40 and the romance of the open road

2011-03-14T14:13:00.005-05:00

There’s romance in a love song and there’s romance in a rose, and then there is romance in an open road.

As an American, over the years I have developed a love affair with the Road Trip. As a kid, my parents would pile us into the family car for what seemed an interminable voyage. Once a year we would visit my gram in Dallas, then slug onto New Mexico or Colorado. I didn’t enjoy it then. Even my brother’s and my attempt to break up the monotony by singing The Song That Never Ends, playing “I spy”, and a healthy dose of bickering (our poor parents) did little to ingratiate the institution of the American Road Trip with the younger me.

It wasn’t until I went to college in Oklahoma that I gained a true appreciation for the art of long car rides. My school campus was on Route 66, that offbeat grampa of great American highways. I quickly came to love loosing myself in landscape and began to look back on my childhood trips with fondness.

In my 8+ hour rides between campus and my home in Houston, the freedom I felt on that road felt like a special treat just for me. Life became simple. Nothing to worry about but the next gas stop, what music to listen to and what I want to eat for lunch.

But I’m not alone. Americans have been enamored with traveling the open road for years. The works of Jack Kerouac, John Steinbeck, Larry McMurtry and Bill Bryson have all found a way into the hearts of American readers.

A road symbolizes a journey, a fact that makes it perfectly suited for story telling. A road carries a character forward and offers endless possibilities of encountering adventure after adventure. And isn’t there something appealing in that?

Yes, I, like many Americans, love a good road trip. So, when I heard about Ruta 40, Argentina’s “notorious” highway, I knew I wanted in on it. Notorious, because it is kilometers and kilometers of nothing, notorious because good portion of it is unpaved, notorious because few towns are to be found along the way.

I took a bus from El Chaltén to Bariloche along this mammoth of a road and soon found that everything I had heard about it was true: it was lonely, boring, dusty and barren. And I thoroughly enjoyed it.

If you’ve ever been on a farm road, you can start to have an idea of what we are dealing with here. Imagine an interminable farm road that works its way up all through Argentina. The landscape is brown, and the sky is blue. That's about it.

With nothing for miles around, the solitary stretches this legendary road crosses serve as a reminder of how small we really are. And somehow, it all comes down to the bare essentials: food, water and where this road will take you.

monday red: chocolate from bariloche, argentina

2011-03-07T09:06:00.003-06:00

Bariloche is a beautiful town and it knows it. Overlooking a gorgeous lake, views throughout the city take your breath away. Dubbed “Little Switzerland" in South America, the town and the surrounding area has a feel that is decidedly Alpine - green trees, snow-capped mountain tops and, come wintertime, some of the best skiing around.

Bariloche is also known for its chocolate. For a refreshingly affordable price one can sample three or four delicious chocolates at any number of chocolate shops around town.

I took it upon myself to find the very best chocolate Bariloche had to offer (I take my job of tourist/traveler very seriously) and decided that the winner was Mamuschka.

You step into the cheerful shop and behind a wonderfully large counter that fills the room are countless heavenly chocolatey creations. You make your selection. The possibilities are endless. Chocolate covered orange slices or dulce de leche in white chocolate? Lemon mousse filled or coffee flavored? Yes, it might feel overwhelming, but you can take some consolation in the fact that you can’t really go wrong - whatever choices you make will be delicious.

But don’t take my word for it, you might have to try all the other chocolate shops as well.

Mamuschka

Mitre 298 (esquina Rolando)

San Carlos de Bariloche

02944 423 294

* I post a picture most days inspired by the color of the day. Sundays are Black and White, Mondays Red, Tuesday Orange, Wednesday Yellow, Green on Thursday, Blue on Friday and you guessed it, Purple for Saturday.

see the perito moreno glacier near el calafate, argentina

2011-03-05T11:08:00.003-06:00

A friend told me that Argentina has three must-see tourist destinations: Iguazu Falls, Salta and the glacier at El Calafate.

Some of you may remember El Calafate from my post a few weeks ago on the dangers of being dumb and loosing your debit card in a foreign country. But this town has another claim to fame which far more exciting. El Calafate is next to a National Park which is home to a most spectacular glacier.

The Perito Moreno glacier is approximately 250 square kilometers and is an impressive sight to see. Throughout the day huge chunks of ice come thundering down to splash into the water below.

You can take a boat to get a closer view and let the magnificent formation tower above you. For a price you can even take a trek over the ice field.

Although my time in El Calafate was marred by the unfortunate loss of my debit card, I know in years to come, it will be the glacier I remember.

see commerson's dolphins in the strait of magellan

2011-03-01T13:15:00.004-06:00

If you travel by bus to Ushuaia, you will get to take a ferry across the Strait of Magellan

The first time I crossed the strait to Tierra del Fuego, I didn't have my camera and it didn't matter anyway because it was raining.

On the way back over the strait, I made absolutely certain I brought my camera with me. Why was it so important? I wanted to get some shots of the Commerson's Dolphins that so playfully showed off for us by racing and leaping through the water.

Commerson's Dolphins are the dolphins that are stylishly dressed in black and white. Often in packs of two or three, they sped along side the ferry eager to keep up with the ferry.

see the penguins in ushuaia, argentina

2011-02-24T07:07:00.003-06:00

Guys, I promised you I would see penguins and I did.

In Ushuaia there were so many amazing things to do, but in a rare moment of single-mindedness I pushed all the other possibilities aside and booked a trip to visit the penguins.

PiraTour is the only company with a license to land on Martillo Island, the home of two breeds of Penguins: Magellanic and Gentoo. So, we had the lucky chance of hanging out with the amazing birds for over an hour.

The Magellanic Penguins build their nests by digging holes in the ground big enough to house three or four fat penguins. The babies do nothing but eat for the first 3 to 4 weeks of their lives so they get impressively fat in a remarkably short time. And to top off the adorable factor, they're fluffy.

I'm lucky I made it off the island alive - the cuteness almost killed me.

Watch more of the penguin action here:

PiraTour

Av San Martin 847

Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, Argentina
info@piratour.com.ar
www.piratour.com.ar

bus travel in argentina: buenos aires to ushuaia

2011-02-21T10:12:00.004-06:00

I was told that Argentina has the best bus travel in South America. Hearing this, I was all over it - I really, really love long road trips.

Starting out in Buenos Aires, a complete newbie to the South American continent, the prospect of how to go about getting tickets and figuring out where to go in the first place was a bit daunting.

I finally narrowed it down to Ushuaia. Tierra del Fuego. The end of the world.

Destination decided, I went online to get a better idea of how to go about getting the right bus tickets.

Can we pause for a bit and discuss how overwhelming the Internet can be? Sometimes having a world of people telling you how to do something can be the opposite of useful. Which is why I was profoundly thankful to the ever helpful Adam Seper for his straightforward overview of the Argentine bus system.

Having a better idea of what the heck I was doing, I made my way to the Retiro Bus Station. At the Andesmar window, I bought my tickets to Río Gallegos, then another to Ushuaia.

This had been the first step I’d made as a solo traveler. I left the station inordinately proud of myself.

Since then I’ve done a lot of bus travel in Argentina. I still love it and have learned that it’s important to do your research before. Finding yourself on a bus at hour 10 with no book, no movie playing and the last paved patch of road a distant memory, can make you long for the luxury of cama seating (the seats that recline to 180 degrees!) and the magical words of “meals included”.

I made this video a couple of weeks go, but haven’t had a chance to share it yet:

Before I go, here's a crazy fact for the day: Did you see all that open space in the video? Yeah. That's cause approximately one-third of the Argentine population lives in Buenos Aires. That leaves a huge country with a lot of empty space.

what to do when you're abroad and the atm eats your card

2011-02-18T10:19:00.003-06:00

I was at an ATM in El Calafate, Argentina when I made the dumb mistake of taking my cash and leaving my card. Genius.

The bank had already closed and I had just taken out enough money to pay for my hostel. I was off on a three day bus journey up to Bariloche first thing in the morning. The trip was paid for, but I had no cash.

Here are a few tips I have to share after this experience:

#1: There’s no crying in baseball

Actually, I don’t care. Go ahead and cry. I know I did.

#2: Take your card!

Try avoiding my mistake. ATMs are different everywhere. Some places give you your card back, then your cash. Or they’ll flash lights or make obnoxious beeping sounds so you know to take your card with you. Some places (Argentina) give you the cash and in very small writing in the corner of the screen ask you if you’d like to make another transaction. Very easy to miss. My advice: don’t be dumb! Always take your card. Wiser words I’ve never spoken.

#3: Talk to someone at the bank

If you’re still reading, it’s probably because you’ve failed to take my advice in #2. If this is the case and if the bank’s open, talk to someone about what happened. They might be able to help you.

#4: get some cheap food with whatever cash you have

I had 7 Argentine pesos (USD1.70). I was looking for the biggest bang for my buck and settled on a sad bag of cookies that did a pretty good job of tiding me over for a couple of days. Of course, now I feel like if I ate a cookie I’d barf, but I am grateful to the little suckers for keeping me alive.

#5: The first town you get to with a bank, ask for a cash advance on your credit card

If you have a credit card, of course. I have one (but no pin - hence the hassle), but I was stopping at small towns on my trip to Bariloche and there were no banks to be found. But on the third day I made it to Bariloche. Banks galore!

#6: If that doesn’t work, you can cry again. Go ahead, I’ll wait.

Apparently banks in the city of Bariloche don’t give cash advances. #&@^$!!.

#7: Keep an emergency stash of US dollars 

You can exchange these anywhere. Just get to the bank before they close. Which is 1pm in Bariloche. #&@^$!!

Seriously guys, can’t something work in my favor??

In the end, perhaps my most important bit of advice:

#8: Make friends

I don’t think I could have gotten through this without the amazing people I’ve met along the way. The Irish couple who bought the sobbing girl a drink. The Norwegian lady who shared her dinner with the now no longer sobbing, but thoroughly sugar-happy girl (eating nothing but cookies for an entire day can have a curious effect). Then there was the wonderful American girl who had the genius idea of doing a Paypal transaction so she could take out my money for me.

So that’s how I have money today. Not with a credit card, not with American dollars, but with the help of my new friend. And the Internet. Thanks, Internet!

A pin for my credit card and a new card is on the way. Until then I'll just enjoy Bariloche. There are worse places to be stranded, let me tell you!

congratulations, you’ve reached the end of the world. have a beer.

2011-02-11T16:37:00.004-06:00

photo credit: Ju125

There are all kinds of End of the World fun and games to be had in Tierra del Fuego’s Ushuaia - hiking, sailing, kayaking, penguin watching and so on. This is about as breath-takingly beautiful as these sports can get (yes, penguin watching is a sport. probably the best sport ever). And what better way to end a day of physical exertion than enjoying a beer from the world’s southern-most microbrewery (thanks for the tip, Lonely Planet!).
**disclaimer: I know next to nothing about beer, besides the fact that I really like to drink it. So, those of you who are at home making your own beer, cut me some slack if my terminology isn’t up to par.**
Cerveza Beagle, is named after the channel on which it's brewed, which is in turn named for the HMS Beagle which Darwin traveled on.

This brewery has 3 different offerings: Rubia-Ale, Negra-Stout and Rojo-India Pale Ale. I’ve been trying to find some information about the brewery itself, but there is very little information to be had on the Internets - the Cerveza Beagle website has been under construction since at least 2007. Asado Argentina, who’s writer is based in Tierra del Fuego has a decent write-up of the Beagle beers (ales?).

In any case, I was impressed with Cerveza Beagle’s offerings. My personal favorite was the Rojo. It was, like, hopsy and yeasty.

Ok, that’s all the beer talk you’ll get out of me.

tierra del fuego by the numbers

2011-02-08T12:39:00.006-06:00

Everyone I've spoken to about my trip to Ushuaia from Buenos Aires thinks I'm crazy. I took the bus and after 2+ days of travel I made it to Tierra del Fuego eager to stretch my legs and walk around. That being the case, I couldn't have come to a better place - Ushuaia is rife with some of the most breathtakingly beautiful hikes in the world.

Here, by the numbers, is what I've learned about this fascinating archipelago at the end of the world:

3 is the number of buses it takes to get to Ushuaia (the capital of Tierra del Fuego) from Buenos Aires (+ 1 ferry)

2 is the number of countries Tierra del Fuego is divided by (Chile and Argentina)

1520 is the year Magellan discovered the islands. Tierra del Fuego is separated by the mainland by the strait of Magellan

60,000 is roughly the number of wild guanacos (a relative of the llama and the alpaca) that live on the islands.

63,280 people is the population of Ushuaia, the capital city of the Argentine province of Tierra del Fuego.

4 is the number of native Fuegians who, in 1830, were taken from their home and brought to London. They were given the English names of Jemmy Button, York Minster, Fuegia Basket and Boat Memory. Boat Memory died early on, but the remaining 3 Patagonians were dressed in European clothes, taught the ways of Christianity and went on to become celebrities. After two years, they were returned to Tierra del Fuego on the HMS Beagle by Robert FitzRoy and Charles Darwin.

map-generator.net

top 10 buenos aires

2011-02-02T07:11:00.006-06:00

My time in Buenos Aires is coming to a close and I wanted to share a list of my Top Ten Buenos Aires with you all.

By juanpol

10. Belgrano

As I’ve mentioned before, I’ve been staying with my cousin’s friend, Sarah who is a teacher here. She lives in a largely residential area that I've had 3 lovely weeks to explore. Belgrano is certainly off the beaten tourist path, and that's part of the appeal. For a "where am I?" experience check out Belgrano's "barrio chino" or Chinatown (see number 8).

9. Shopping
Porteños, as people from Buenos Aires call themselves, are a fashion-conscious bunch and this is especially evident in neighborhoods such as Recoleta and Palermo.

I’m not much of a shopper myself, but I did enjoy shopping for food in the city. Unlike the US, grocery shopping is not a one-stop affair. It’s all about stopping at the fruit vendor, then the vegetable vendor. Need some eggs? That’s the next stop, right by the fish vendor. And of course, we can’t forget a visit to the cheese and sausage man, can we?

Of course, there are supermarkets here if you’re interested. I frequented one called Disco. Yes, that’s really it’s name. But in general, the products were fresher from the various vendors, and if you don’t have to do it every day, it’s more fun that way.

By teipsum

8. Chinatown
That’s right. Chinatown. Bet you weren’t expecting a Chinatown in Buenos Aires, were you? Well, there definitely is one, albeit a small one, Chinese gate and all. Immigrants from mainland China and Taiwan arrived after World War II and have been arriving in waves since.

If you ever find yourself in Belgrano, head over to Arribeños right by the train station. Chinatown has established itself as the place to go for Chinese restaurants (of course), stores selling produce, spices and foods a little different from the traditional Argentine, as well as one of my all time favorite things, street food. Oh, and while we’re on the subject, Happy Year of the Rabbit!

By blmurch

7. Dog Walkers
The Argentines love their dogs. There’s no doubt about that. You’ll see professional dog walkers walking down the street with anywhere from three to fifteen dogs on leashes. They are hired by families who have neither the time nor inclination to walk their beloved pooches themselves. It’s quite a sight to see!

By gatiusse

6. The Night Life
Jeez. What to say about the night life? It’s legendary. They have this thing called a “disco nap” without which you wouldn’t be able to dream of keeping up with the Argentines. This nap usually takes place anywhere from 10pm to 12am so you can be well rested for the night ahead. After that, take a swig of your Vodka Speed (the equivalent of Vodka & Red Bull) and be on your way. You should have everything you need to enjoy your time in the clubs until around 7am, when you’ll grab a quick bite to eat and finally head home to crash. Or head to the office if you’re Argentine. No really, I have no idea how they do it.

By a song under the sugar sugar

5. Free Wi-Fi
One thing I caught onto and came to appreciate very quickly is all of the free wi-fi to be had around the city. Granted, that’s free with a coffee or something to eat, but still it was reassuring to know that in my first few weeks in Argentina, I was sure to be connected. I know this won’t be the case so much as I move on to other parts of the continent.

4. The History
Now, I realize that Argentina has had its share of dark and violent times, but despite that, there are some parts of the country’s history that they make the effort to remember. Be it the Mothers of Plaza de Mayo as they march around the historic square every Thursday at 3:30 determined to remind us of their children who were kidnapped and tortured and they will not be quieted, they will never forget. Or maybe it is the fierce devotion of some to Evita or even the tango singer Carlos Gardel. Gardel’s fans still maintain that even though he died tragically in a plane crash, “he sings better everyday”. Whether it is a monumental effort or a simple case of denial, the porteños keep the past with them.

3. Buskers
Every city has buskers. But it’s not on every city that you’ll see some of the most sensual and passionate dance take place on the streets. And it’s not only tango, the musicians are something to write home about too. From the kid with his accordion to the old man in his gaucho attire strumming on a guitar, a stroll through San Telmo on a Sunday will satisfy the listener in all of us.

By paradoxengine

2. Beef
I will avert Elvie’s eyes for this next part - she’s a vegetarian after all. Oh man, the beef! Ever since I was a little girl I’ve had very carnivorous tendencies. I’m sorry if hearing this upsets my vegetarian friends. But so it is: I love my meat. So what better place to visit than Argentina? You can get an amazing steak dinner for $10. I was reading somewhere that Argentine’s eat fifty percent more beef a year than the average American. That’s a lot of beef.

And last, but not least:

1. The expat community
Perhaps one of the things I’ve enjoyed most since coming here is getting a chance to hang with the expat community. Sarah has introduced me to her friends, a fun and wacky group of expats living in the city. I’ve enjoyed hearing about what Buenos Aires is to them - the good, the bad and the ugly.

Quite possibly this that I love most about traveling. It makes you shed your defenses and get to know people you wouldn’t have the chance to meet otherwise and in turn teaches you something about yourself.

Well, that's it for my list. There are of course countless wonderfully unique things about Buenos Aires that I left out. Have you been to Buenos Aires? What are your favorite things about the city?

monday red: alfajores argentinos

2011-01-31T14:56:00.003-06:00

So, we've talked about empanadas and we've talked about dulce de leche. But we have yet to discuss another Argentine favorite: alfajores, a delightful little treat appropriate to eat at any time of day.

An alfajor is two biscuits with a filling, usually dulce de leche, in between. Yeah, it's pretty much what the oreo dreams of being when it grows up.

While I am here in Buenos Aires, I am staying with my cousin's friend, Sarah. Sarah has been incredibly generous in letting me stay in her apartment since I got here. She's also proven to be a great pal to have around, guiding me in selecting the very best dulce de leche, and of course, the very best alfajores*.

She had me do a taste test of different brands to see if I agreed with her choice of the best (guys, my life is so hard). And these were the winner, hands down. OMG, they just melt in your mouth.

*The very best in a box, that is. You can purchase the very very best fresh at bakeries.

saturday purple: an umbrella in china

2011-01-29T10:15:00.002-06:00

If you go to China in the summer, or indeed, whenever the sun is out, be prepared to dodge umbrellas left and right in a crowd. Here is a shot of one of my fellow teachers from Shenzhen looking for shells on an island. With her umbrella.

from argentina with love: dulce de leche

2011-01-28T08:37:00.005-06:00

If you ever visit Argentina, there will be a few things that you'll find it hard to avoid - the meat, the tango and, of course, the dulce de leche (though why you'd want to avoid any of these things is beyond me).

Dulce de leche finds its way into and onto so many pastries, cakes, breads, ice creams and treats in Argentina, that it's quite impressive - and difficult to avoid!

Anyway, I've been eating this in as many forms as possible, but so far my favorite just might be out of the container. With a spoon. Mmmm....

Here's everyone's favorite cooking nerd, Alton Brown showing us how to make it (dulce de leche how-to starts at minute 4:30):

thursday green: eva peron

2011-01-27T05:54:00.005-06:00

How does one write about someone like Eva Perón? At once revered and disdained by Argentines, her status as a cult figure is undeniable.

Coming from humble beginnings, Eva Duarte moved to Buenos Aires at the age of 15 in 1935 with aspirations to make it as an actress. She met Colonel Juan Perón, at a fund-raising gala in 1944. She became his wife and played an important part in his rise to power.

With Evita at his side, Perón focused on the needs of the laborers living in the slums of Buenos Aires. A minimum wage and better living conditions were instituted. The descamisados or the "shirtless ones" as Eva called the poor workers, suddenly had a voice. And Juan Perón found himself with formidable numbers behind him.

He became president. Eva had hospitals and schools built and she dispensed money to the poor. While snubbed by Argentina's elite, she became extremely popular among the poor and to this day, her supporters refer to her as Santa Evita.

Evita died in 1952 and the country mourned for weeks.

When Madonna's film Evita came out in 1996, the outrage was palpable. How could they cast the "material girl", a pop star, an American as their beloved Evita? The fact that decades after her death, Eva Perón can evoke such a reaction is telling.

feria de san telmo - buenos aires, argentina

2011-01-26T06:38:00.003-06:00

The oldest barrio, or neighborhood, in Buenos Aires is San Telmo. Here, the buildings are distinctly colonial and the people are colorful. There is apparently an ongoing debate between San Telmo and La Boca over who "birthed the Tango". We'll probably never know for sure, but it is certain that Tango is alive and well in this barrio.

This is perhaps most evident on Sundays. A weekly feria, or street fair, has been held in Plaza Dorrego since 1970. The Feria de San Telmo has grown in popularity since then and the fair now stretches from the plaza into the surrounding streets. Here anyone and everyone comes to sell antiques, souvenirs and art.

My favorite part by were the street performers. I've put together a little video of the wonderful crowd who came to the fair this past Sunday.

San Telmo from lavache on Vimeo.

The music in the video was playing in the street. From what I can figure out, the song is a recording of "Tomo y Obligo", a song written by Manuel Romero and sung by Carlos Gardel. Correct me if I'm wrong.

tuesday orange: sunset in shenzhen, china

2011-01-25T06:17:00.003-06:00

The other day I posted a link to the La Vache Espagnole facebook page that shows how much Shanghai has changed over the last 20 years. It's truly incredible.

The above photo was taken in Shenzhen while I was teaching English there. Shenzhen is another city that has changed spectacularly in 20 years. 35 years ago it was no more than a series of fishing villages and now it has a population of 9 million.

The cities in China are dynamic, ever-changing and ever-growing and it's a fascinating time to visit.

monday red: dancing in the street - buenos aires, argentina

2011-01-24T06:32:00.004-06:00

The origins of Tango are murky. Some say it found it's start in the brothels of Buenos Aires, others maintain that it was merely in the brothels that members of the middle and upper classes first came into contact with it. In any case, there is little written record of how this now world famous dance came into being.

Tango didn't really take off on the world stage until it found it's way to Europe at the beginnings of the 20th century. It is believed to have arrived by way of Marseille, where Argentine sailors would dance with the locals.

In 1912, Tango reached Paris and there was no looking back. Still unacceptable in Argentina's polite society, Tango fascinated Europeans. The popularity was so great that people all over the world wanted to learn this couple's dance. And in 1917 a young man by the name of Carlos Gardel got his start and would go on to be an iconic singer for the genre. But more about him another time...

Tango is everywhere in Buenos Aires. You just need to walk down a crowded street and there is sure to be a couple dancing this seductive dance. It is absolutely delightful.

une vache espagnole

2011-01-23T07:37:00.002-06:00

The results are in and we have a name for my travel buddy!:

Elvie and that Spanish Cow feeling from lavache on Vimeo.

sunday black and white: buenos aires weather report

2011-01-23T07:15:00.003-06:00

I'm sure this would mean so much more to me if I had moved here from a colder city, but even coming from Houston, these temperatures are a nice change. Hooray for summer in January!

saturday purple: acts of devotion in kuala lumpur, malaysia

2011-01-22T08:07:00.004-06:00

Hands down, the most incredible thing I've ever witnessed is the Thaipusam Festival at the Batu Caves just outside of Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.

Thaipusam is a Hindu festival celebrated annually commemorating the birthday of Lord Murugan, an important god among the Tamil people in Southern India (a large population of Tamil Indians settled in Malaysia). Devotees demonstrate penance through a series of burdens. Burdens can range carrying a pot of milk to different forms of mortification of the flesh - piercing ones skin, cheeks or tongue.

In Malaysia millions complete the pilgrimage to the Batu Caves. Weighed down by their burdens and demonstrating their devotion to their faith, it is a truly amazing sight to see.

To see this incredible display of penance for yourself, plan a visit to Kuala Lumpur in January or February (depending on the year). You won't regret it!

More pictures here.

argentinian empanadas

2011-01-22T05:38:00.004-06:00

A few years ago, my family discovered a little argentinian pastry shop in Houston called Manena’s. We have been stopping by regularly ever since to pick up an order of their delicious empanadas.

Now that I am in Argentina, I see that Manena’s purpose in my life was to whet my appetite for the variety of flavorful empanadas to come.

Empanadas come in many different shapes and fillings, varying based on region, maker and flavor. The verb empanar means literally “to bread”, so an empanada is something breaded (or, in this case, with bread wrapped around).

Empanadas in the Americas have their origins in the Iberian Peninsula where an empanada is more of a large pie which is cut into pieces. Usually filled with tuna or cod, empanadas became “portable” smaller versions of the original pie.

Known as empanadillas (little empanadas) in Spain, and simply empanadas in the Americas, these little meat (or whatever filling you want) pockets are tasty little snack to enjoy.

In Argentina, every region has a trademark empanada, be it beef, chicken, humita (corn filling), vegetables, etc. Empanadas can be fried or baked. In Buenos Aires, the possibilities are endless, each filling differentiated by the pattern the fold is given.

Well, enough about that. I can’t stay long, I have some empanadas to enjoy...

Manena's
1018 Westheimer Rd, Houston, Texas 77042, USA

Tel. 713-278-7139

Monday-Saturday 8:30am-8pm

empanadas US$1.90 each

friday blue: more from la boca - buenos aires, argentina

2011-01-21T07:53:00.003-06:00

Another example of the fun, bright colors to be found in Buenos Aires barrio (neighborhood) of La Boca.

This building houses a souvenir shop. And I'd be willing to guess that the clothes hanging are not actually worn, but merely washed to hang up to dry again. They're too strategically placed and color coordinated.

But it sure is cute, isn't it?

* I post a picture most days inspired by the color of the day. Sundays are Black and White, Mondays Red, Tuesday Orange, Wednesday Yellow, Green on Thursday, Blue on Friday and you guessed it, Purple for Saturday.