Ladies With Bottle

75 Year Old Coronation Ale for Edward VIII Discovered

2012-02-08T20:31:00.000Z

Two thousand bottles of a long lost Coronation Ale have been discovered in a bricked up cellar. The Coronation Ale was set to be sold in Britain to commemorate Edward VIII's coronation - planned for the anniversary of the King’s first year on the throne in January 1937. But the bottles of ale never saw the light of day because Edward abdicated just a month before in December 1936 to marry American twice-divorced Wallis Simpson.

The ale then lay undiscovered for decades until workman found it in a bricked up cellar after being called in to replace a floor at the 200-year-old Greene King Brewery in Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk.

Greene King is better known for beers such as Old Speckled Hen, Abbot Ale, Belhaven Best and a range of seasonal beers.

The origin of the ale became clear when a faded label was spotted on one bottle. Beer historians checked records and museum articles and confirmed the corked bottles were of Coronation Ale. Expert brewer John Bexon sampled the vintage ale and told the Daily Mail that:

“This really would have been a fantastic beer in its day, it was 12 per cent when it was brewed so is quite strong and has kept really well.

The rich fruit flavour still stands out and you can see a clear ring around the top of the beer when you look at it through the glass, rather like you might see on a vintage port or wine.”

John, who has been in the brewery industry for 35 years, said it was impossible to put a price on the ale but said it could be of real value to beer buffs or collectors.

I had no idea that ales could age like wine but after doing a little reading up on the topic I have found out that Fullers produce a Vintage Ale. Their oldest vintage dates back to 1997.

The world's oldest beer was discovered in 2010 in the sunken cargo off a wreck found on the Baltic seabed near the Aland Islands, between Sweden and Finland - along with 30 bottles of Champagne (see Nick's Blog 200 Year Old Champagne is Veuve Cliquot and Juglar). However the beer from the wreck is not drinkable and scientists are hoping to analyse the remains to see if they can recreate it.

I wonder if the Coronation Ale is the world's oldest drinkable ale? Does anyone know of any ales that are older?

New Wine Film on Master Sommeliers: Somm

2012-02-01T13:51:00.002Z

Somm is a new wine film, directed by Jason Wise is hoped to première on the East Coast. The film charts the progress of 4 young sommeliers: Brian McClintic, Dustin Wilson, Ian Cauble and D'Lynn Proctor who are attempting to pass the prestigious Master Sommelier exam. This is a qualification with one of the lowest pass rates in the world, with less than 200 people achieving a pass. Wise has submitted the film to the Tribeca and Edinburgh film festivals.

The trailer for the film has had over 15,000 unique page views within the first two days and Wise is optimistic about the film's success.

Access to the Court Of Master Sommeliers has always been strictly regulated and cameras have never been allowed anywhere near the exam . . . until now. According to Decanter.com the film also features interviews with some major wine producers, including Andrea Cecci of Tuscany, Hano Zillikenof Saar in Germany, Paul Graf von Schönborn of Schloss Schönborn, Bo Barrett of Chateau Montelena, and Wilhelm Haag of Fritz Haag in the Mosel. The film took two years to film and spanned 6 countries in location.

“Described variously as ‘the new rockstars’, ‘prophets’, ‘egomaniacs’, and ‘sickly gifted’, the four Americans go through ‘thousands and thousands of hours’ of wine tasting, wine theory and practice.

In scenes reminiscent of The Apprentice and dozens of other reality TV shows, Somm – as sommeliers are sometimes called in the US – shows them in the depths of despair, as well as approaching what they concede is a ‘brutal’ ordeal with masochistic relish.”

Geoff Kruth, chief operating officer of the Guild of Sommeliers told Decanter that:

“Somm highlights not only their extreme level of commitment but the all-encompassing effect it has on their lives.”

In the UK, Master Sommeliers contacted by Decanter were positive about a film which may lay to rest some misconceptions about their profession Ronan Sayburn MS, wine director at Hotel du Vin, said:

“Demystifying wine is good for the industry as a whole” – although he firmly denied any pretensions to star status: “Maybe I feel like a rock star for about ten minutes when I’m decanting a bottle of Latour, but not at two am when I’m polishing glasses. In the Court of Master Sommeliers, we try to teach humility.”

You can watch the trailer here.

Women and Whisky

2012-01-18T12:32:00.001Z

The UK seems seriously out of step with the rest of the world, with women representing only a third of the nation’s whisky drinkers, according to an article in the Scotsman.com. In countries such as France and Russia, the comparable figures are around 50:50, with the growth in emergent areas like Latin America and the Far East often being led by women! I wonder if this is because the whisky is mixed with something a little more enticing than water?

Apparently the oldest family owned whisky distiller, William Grant & Sons, has commissioned a World Whisky Map to provide a global picture of the whisky industry. The map examines the global differences in consumer's perceptions and tastes which prove interesting reading:

In Brazil, whisky is enjoyed as a long drink with coconut water and ice.

In China, 60% of whisky drinkers are under 35 and often serve blends and malts with cold sweet green tea on the rocks

In Bulgaria, Scotch is the party drink, often served with energy drinks

In South Africa whisky is popular in whisky-based cocktails

In Australia, with the prevalence of beach and outdoor culture, whisky is commonly served ready mixed for al fresco dining

Brian Kinsman, Master Blender at Grants, senses this is part of a world shift towards sweeter drinks, and the casks used in maturing the whisky can play a part there. Casks that were previously used for bourbon can imbue their content with crème brûlée and vanilla flavours, while former sherry casks often deliver firm hints of spice and dried fruit.

Bruichladdich produce Redder Still as a limited edition – the whisky spends over two decades in American oak Bourbon casks followed by a time in casks from Chateau Lafleur in Bordeaux. The whisky is reddish in colour with flavours of strawberries, blackberries, raspberries and plums.

It was reported in 2004 that Bruichladdich had created a red hued whisky by accident. After 1,040 weeks in bourbon casks, the whisky spent just five in Mourvedre wine casks, an experiment designed to add a suggestion of fruit flavour that resulted in unexpected effects – the whisky was bright pink.

Whilst traditionalists were spluttering into their tumblers at the idea of a pink whisky, experts predicted that younger consumers, female drinkers and the pink pound could be tempted by the tipple – which was nicknamed "Flirtation".

It seems that the pink whisky was a success – and inspired the use of prestigious ex-chateau barrels in preference to Mourvedre wine casks - the first release of Redder Still sold out so quickly that few ever got to see it let alone taste it. The price tag? £450 for 700ml.

I must admit that I do prefer slightly a sweeter styled whisky to smoky varieties and although a pink whisky might seem patronising to the female sex, it's the taste that counts. If the price tag was not so high this would definitely be a whisky I would try. What do you think?

Champagne Glasses Suffer From An Identity Crisis

2012-01-13T12:13:00.001Z

News from the Drinks Business has highlighted the fact that Champagne Houses are: “moving away from using traditional flutes for their fizz in favour of white wine glasses”, according to glassware manufacturer Georg Riedel.

“The Champenois are starting to serve their sparklers in white wine glasses as the larger surface areas give more aromas, complexity and a creamier texture.”

Flutes are too narrow and don’t allow the aroma and richness of the Champagne to shine as there isn’t enough air space.

Ideally, a flute should only be half full, or, better still, a third full in order to release a Champagne’s aromatic potential.

In response to demand, Riedel has started making bespoke glasses for several Champagne houses and has developed a new sparkling wine glass more akin to a white wine glass.”

Champagne glasses seem to have suffered from an identity crisis over the years. The Champagne coupe was popular in the 1830s when sweeter Champagnes were all the rage.

Legend has it that the shape of the Champagne coupe was modelled on the breast of Marie Antoinette but there are claims it was invented in England in 1663.

These wide and shallow glasses came back into the fashion in the 1960s and 70s but fell out of favour as the Champagne went lifeless in a few minutes as the fizz went flat.

The Drinks Business reported that Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger has stressed the need for Champagne to retain the flute to differentiate the sparkling product from still wine. He referred to a battle with 'marketers' who, he said, “want us to drink Champagne in a wine glass.”

A report in 2009 by Dr Gerard Liger-Belair of Reims University, France discovered that champagne bubbles are the key to its flavour and tulip glasses or white wine glasses with a narrower rim than the bowl are reckoned to the better than coupes and flutes as they trap the aroma and don't lose the bubbles as quickly.

There are approximately 49 million bubbles in a bottle of Champagne and I intend to enjoy each and every one of them! What do you think Champagne should be served in?

Wine and Perfume

2012-01-06T12:40:00.000Z

I came across a new perfume the other day that is inspired by wine: Kelly & Jones in New york City. Their Scent Sommelier Kelly created the Notes of Wine Collection after experiencing the fragrance of her vanilla perfume mingling with Chardonnay at a wine tasting in Napa. The Eau de Parfum is offered in 5 wine-inspired varietals:

Notes of Sauvignon Blanc

A crisp, refreshing unisex blend of yuzu grapefruit, starfruit, green apple and a hint of camellia.

Notes of Riesling

Aromas of fresh-picked white peach, anjou pear, bergamot and raspberry leaf.

Notes of Cabernet

This swoon-worthy blend has spicy notes of pink peppercorn, ripe black cherry, and tobacco flower on a gorgeous base of vintage leather.

Notes of Merlot

A smooth, balanced essence and beautiful blend of red currant, mission fig, rhubarb and lovely candied violet

Notes of Chardonnay

A rich, vibrant and seductive blend of sweet honeydew melon, vanilla blossom and luscious crème brulee all rounded out on a base of toasted oak.

Kelly & Jones suggest that you can either wear each scent on its own, layer them together to create your own vintner’s blend or wear while sipping your favourite glass of wine.

It's an interesting concept as in most cases you are advised not to wear any perfume at all whilst tasting wine as it interferes with the flavours. However if aroma affects wine then surely it is possible that it could do so in a positive manner as well as a negative one? I will have to try it out!

One product that I won't be trying out is the Mazzetti d'Altavilla Essentia Vitae range of wines released last year. These wines feature three varieties, each with a different scent and a different number in a packaging style reminiscent of perfume bottles.

The No. 4 Ruche features a jasmine scent, while No. 6 Malvasia is rose scented and No. 8 Moscato has a violet scent. My problem is that the bottles are really off putting – no matter what the wine tastes like it will still seem as if I am drinking perfume!

What do you think?

Mulled Wine Jelly

2011-12-29T13:33:00.001Z

I came across a lovely recipe which will refresh tired taste buds after the Christmas dishes we have been enjoying over the past few days.

1 pint water

110g sugar

1 cinnamon stick

rind of 1 lemon

rind of 1 orange

1 Earl Grey teabag

285ml fruity red wine

juice of 1 orange

4 leaves of gelatine (pre-soaked in cold water for 10 minutes)

Place the water, sugar, cinnamon stick and the lemon and orange rinds in a saucepan and heat gently. Keep stirring till the sugar has dissolved and then boil for a couple of minutes. Remove from the heat and add the Earl Grey teabag. Leave to soak for a couple of minutes and then remove. Stir in the red wine, the orange juice and the soaked gelatine leaves. Leave to cool.

When cooled, remove the lemon and orange rinds and the cinnamon stick, and pour the cold liquid into six glasses. Leave in a cool place to set. This makes a super dessert but if you'd like to try this with a sweet dessert white like Sauternes it makes a delicious accompaniment to cold cuts of turkey or roast beef!

Enjoy!

A Year of Food and Wine – Trends in 2011

2011-12-27T15:14:00.000Z

It's traditional at this time of year to look back at what has gone before and reflect, so I thought I would highlight some of the miles we have travelled in the world of wine and food over 2011.

I hate to say it but chocolate comes out on top! Chocolate Wine that is. Apart from the wines I mentioned you came up with some other intriguing suggestions: Chocovine, Vino de Mocca from Kirigin Cellars, Deco Chocolate Port and Pindar's Cabernet Port. Recipe ideas were chocolate sauce made with port and drizzling chocolate wine over desserts such as ice creams.

2011 must be a year for those with a sweet tooth as the second most popular topic was the mint liqueur Crème de Menthe! I recommended using it in a cocktail, although I do prefer mine chilled and on the rocks, however this is another drink that can be poured over desserts or used as a glaze for chocolate brownies.

Asparagus and wine have been labelled as uncomfortable bedfellows when it comes to food and wine pairing and my blog on the ideal partner for asparagus – the sparkling wine Comte de Laube - proved to be very popular.

It was good to see the little appellation of Saint Mont in south west France attracting some attention. This is a very, very old vineyard which is being revitalised by a dynamic – and determined - set of wine makers. The forward thinking co-operative Producteurs Plaimont was founded in 1979 by André Dubosc, who set up the Conservatory of Saint Mont wines and saved many grapes from extinction.

Saint Mont now holds a unique collection in France (around 116 different grape varieties) and this botanical heritage is now attracting attention from researchers, scientists and vintners alike. Much of Dubosc's work has focused on the vineyard of René Pédebernade, which, according to the French wine critic Michel Bettane, contains the oldest vines in France. Some of the vines are believed to be 300 years old, giving new meaning to the term Vieilles Vignes (old vines).

The most popular food and wine pairing recipes were:

Laverbread – the Welshman's Caviar, paired with Champagne or Sparkling Wine, a Bordeaux Clairet or Rosé and a Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon blend from the Entre Deux Mers.

Marjoram, the Herb of Grace – Recipes for Barbeques and Good Wine, paired with the white wine Sancet from the Côtes de Gascogne appellation.

Saffron, a Recipe and M de Malle. M de Malle being a gorgeous white from the AOC Graves.

The Changing of the Seasons, Jasmine, Beef Stew and Chateau Peynaud. Peynaud is a cracking Bordeaux Superieur that has proved so popular that Nick has sold out! If you are looking for a wine to pair with this recipe Nick recommends that you try Chateau Roc de Levraut which is another little gem.

I hope you have enjoyed Ladies With Bottle throughout 2011 as much I have enjoyed writing it. Thank you for all your support!

Nick and I wish you all a very Happy Christmas!

Christmas Feast Case £49.99

2011-12-13T12:26:00.001Z

Our Christmas Feast Case is packed with goodies for your Christmas dishes and is a special price of £49.99!

I am recommending Rosé wine as the perfect match for Turkey as I don't believe that red or white wines match it well . . . but a fruity Rosé does! Packed full of flavours of ripe red currants and cranberries Rosé is ideal.

What's more it won't make you sleepy – the combination of red wine and turkey are often blamed for the post meal “turkey nap” after Christmas dinner. A few years back researchers found the sleep hormone Melatonin in red grapes. Melatonin is made from Tryptophan, which is also found in Turkeys! No wonder you feel like a snooze!

The Christmas Feast Case contains:

2 x Chateau Roques de Mauriac 2007

Great with a roasted Honey Baked Ham for Christmas Eve. Mouth wateringly, crisp flavours of redcurrant, raspberry, strawberry, pomegranate and cranberry.

2 x Chateau Lamothe Vincent 2009

Perfect with Roasted Turkey for Christmas Day. Bursting with the flavours of ripe red currant, red gooseberries, raspberry, crushed strawberry, cranberries and citrus.

2 x Montagnac Syrah

Ideal for a Cold Meat Supper on Boxing Day. Powerfully flavoured and full bodied with aromas of chocolate, violets, truffles, leather, coffee and black pepper.

6 x Brissonet Rouge

Perfect for Mulled Wine. An aromatic red bursting with ripe flavours of ripe cherries, violets, dark chocolate and blackberries. I'll pop an easy recipe for Mulled Wine in each case!

Merry Christmas!

Add a Little Christmas Cheer with our New 6 Bottle Christmas Case!

2011-12-01T12:54:00.006Z

Add a little Christmas Cheer this festive season with our new 6 Bottle Christmas Case for £63.60! We have chosen a great selection of wines to suit your celebrations and the case includes superb clarets, an award winning rosé, our most popular white wines and a super sparkler recommended by critic Joanna Simon. These wines have been selected with good food in mind and are the perfect accompaniment for your Christmas dishes – and make great Christmas presents too!

Chateau Teyssier 2007 – Lovely with venison or pigeon and pairs well with pâté, roast beef and lamb and strong cheeses.

Chateau Teyssier is a modern Saint Emilion made by Jonathan Maltus (producer of the super-cuvée Le Dôme, amongst others and by the oenologist to First Growth Chateau Cheval Blanc, Gilles Pauquet). Teyssier has flavours of rich, dark fruits such as black cherry, blackberries and mulberries with a hint of vanilla, violets, oak and cedar. This is a well balanced, elegant wine full of supple tannins and opulence that has been aged in oak for 12 months.

Stephen Spurrier from Decanter described this wine as “Dark red, clean and fresh fruit, fragrant and well-contained, good length and savoury balance, nice sense of place”.

Chateau Roc de Levraut Bordeaux Superieur 2009 – Great with pheasant, partridge, guinea fowl, goose, duck and roast pork.

Château Roc de Levraut is regularly an award winning wine and is velvety smooth with well integrated tannins and has flavours of blackcurrant, vanilla, liquorice, redcurrant and cherry.

Chateau Lamothe Vincent Rosé 2009 - Terrific with turkey, chicken, roast pork, salmon, roast ham and cold cuts.
Chateau Lamothe Vincent Rosé is a multi award winning wine made by the Vincent family who have been making wines since 1873. This wine is a fabulous dry, deep, dark pomegranate pink and is bursting with the flavours of ripe red currant, red gooseberries, raspberry, crushed strawberry and citrus. It is silky smooth, well rounded, deep and has a lovely long finish.

Chateau Laures 2009 – Super with turkey, chicken, guinea fowl, pork, goats cheese, prawns, lobster, salmon pâté and melon. Good as an aperitif!

Chateau Laures has been well reviewed by the wine press and is a classy little gem. This wine is a brilliant gold in colour with the aromas of mangoes and pineapples and and intense fruit and honey in the mouth. It’s elegant but expressive and rich on the palate with a good snap to the acidity.

Chateau Les Eymeries Blanc 2008 – Very good with oysters, scallops, smoked trout and smoked salmon, chicken, turkey and soft cheeses.

Chateau Les Eymeries is a superb find and has proved to be immensely popular. This wine is very well made indeed and has minerally aromas with hints of honey which lead to both tartness and richness in the mouth. It is well structured, crisp, fruity and mouth wateringly fresh with flavours of sweet melon, pineapple, pink grapefruit and lemon.

Cremant d’Alsace Joseph Pfister – Perfect Bubbly for Christmas! Light and fresh on the palate and an ideal wine for accompanying the entire meal, from the aperitif to the dessert.

Cremant d’Alsace Joseph Pfister is a lovely pale yellow colour with a dense, very fine mousse lasting to the very last sip in the glass. It has very creamy deep fruits on the nose with definite hints of apricots, lime blossom and plums.

Chestnut Liqueur for Christmas

2011-11-29T22:07:00.006Z

Chestnuts are starting to appear in the shops ready for roasting over the fires for Christmas. I love roast chestnuts and if you haven't got an open fire you can roast them in the oven – but be careful to prick them first in case they explode. Chestnuts have been a staple food in the Mediterranean for thousands of years as they can be made into a form of flour for unleavened bread making.

Chestnut flour can also be used to make cakes, pancakes and pasta – it was the original ingredient for polenta. The chestnut bread can stay fresh for as long as 2 weeks and in the ancient world it was widely used as army rations. Alexander the Great planted chestnut trees across Europe whilst on various campaigns and the Greek army is said to have survived their retreat from Asia Minor in 401-399 BC thanks to their stores of chestnuts.

Candied chestnuts appeared in the chestnut growing areas North of Italy and South of France shortly after the crusaders brought sugar back with them from the Middle East. You can still buy them today in the form of Marrons Glacés (for a home made recipe see Christmas Sweets and Treats – Marrons Glacés and Crémant d'Alsace).

The Italians soak their chestnuts in wine before roasting and this reminded me of Liqueur de Châtaigne – Chestnut Liqueur. This is a very aromatic liqueur and makes a great Autumnal Kir if you add it to white wine or champagne – a different twist to cassis! It is also fantastic served over vanilla ice cream, in coffee or with slices of melon.

There are a few companies that produce Liqueur de Châtaigne – it's well known in France and Italy - and in Madeira it is a traditional beverage. However you can make it at home.

Chestnut Liqueur

500g peeled chestnuts
150g sugar
200ml water
500ml brandy
Boil the chestnuts in a large saucepan of water for 20 minutes.

Remove and drain. Peel them whilst they are still hot – use rubber gloves to protect your fingers! Make a cut through the skin almost all the way round the chestnut and peel the skin away.

Place the chestnuts in a saucepan with the 200ml of water and simmer for 10 minutes with the lid on. Do not stir. Remove the chestnuts and stir the sugar into the water. Return the chestnuts to the saucepan and gently cook with the lid off for another 5 minutes. Place the chestnuts in a jar with a good seal; add the sugar solution from the pan and the brandy. Leave for liquor via a fine sieve then add the brandy. Store in a cool dark place for 2 weeks.

Christmas Nougat

2011-11-17T14:47:00.008Z

Nougat is a popular treat at Christmas in Europe and it's name comes from the old French Occitan "pan nogat" which means "nut bread". The French town of Montelimar is renowned for making it, dating back to the 18th century. There are three basic kinds of nougat: The first, and most common, is white nougat (which appeared in Cremona, Italy in the early 15th century) is made with beaten egg whites and honey. The second is brown nougat (referred to as Mandorlato in Italy, Turrón in Spain and Nougatine in French) is made without egg whites and has a firmer, often crunchy texture. The third is the Viennese or German nougat which is essentially a chocolate and nut (usually hazelnut) praline.

Nougat is made with sugar and/or honey, roasted nuts (almonds, walnuts, pistachios, hazelnuts and recently macadamia nuts are common), and sometimes chopped candied fruit. You can vary the flavours of Nougat by adding lemon zest, liqueurs, pine nuts, coffee and chocolate. Adding dried cranberries would be a good idea if you are making this for Christmas!

In the Middle East Nougat is made with pistachios and rosewater and I have found a recipe for you to make at home. You will need a sugar thermometer as trying to make Nougat without one usually results in a mess. Glucose syrup is one of the ingredients and you can find this at most super markets. Glucose Syrup helps control the formation of sugar crystals when making cake-icing, desserts, confectionery and jam.

2 cups granulated sugar
1 ½ cups glucose syrup
pinch of salt
1/4 cup water
2 egg whites
1 ½ tsp rose water
1 cup toasted pistachios

Line a pan with foil and spray with non stick cooking oil. Place the egg whites in the bowl of a large stand mixer, and whisk until stiff. Combine the sugar, glucose syrup, salt, and water in a pan over medium-high heat. Stir until the sugar is dissolved, and continue to cook until the mixture reaches 250 degrees. Remove from the heat and slowly pour a quarter of the mixture into the stiff egg whites, with the mixer running constantly. Continue to beat the egg whites until the mixture holds its shape.

Return the pan with the remaining sugar syrup to the hob, and continue to cook over medium-high heat until the mixture reaches 300 degrees. With the mixer running, pour the remaining mixture slowly into the mixer and continue beating until thick and stiff. Add the rose water and nuts and beat until combined.

Spoon the nougat into the prepared pan, and press it smoothly and evenly. Keep it in refrigerator until the nougat is set. Take it out of the mould and cut it into squares. Store in an airtight container in the fridge.

Enjoy!

Come and Visit Us at the Wine Show 2011

2011-11-09T22:43:00.006Z

Nick is with Bordeaux-Undiscovered at the Wine Show 2011 in Olympia, London (Thursday 11th - Sunday 13th November) so please come along and say hello!

It's a great opportunity for us to meet our loyal customers and to meet new friends. It's a wine lover's paradise as far as we are concerned as we will be able to enjoy our wines with visitors who are keen to try, discuss and discover our range.

Nick will be there to chat with visitors about what we all get from the wines, what kind of palates they have and which wines suit them. The feed back is very important to us as being an online company it will be great to be able to really interact on a personal level and get down to “talking wine”.

This year tickets include free entry to MasterChef Live and you can see John Torode, Gregg Wallace and the 2011 MasterChef Champion - Tim Anderson. Plus the Show will be jam-packed with over 100 of the best local producers, selling top quality food and drink perfect for a Christmas treat! You can also visit the Restaurant Experience to sample tapas-sized dishes from London’s best restaurants.

The Drinks Tasting Theatre is the place to meet top experts, including wine aficionados Oz Clarke, Susy Atkins and Ewan Lacey who will be holding Wine Tasting sessions. Sessions last 30 minutes.

It's a fantastic way to discover new wines and shop for Christmas! You can book tickets here. The Box Office number is 0844 581 1365.

Olympia is in Hammersmith Road, London, W14 8UX and if you are travelling by car it is best to pre-book a visitor's space in advance (tel 0207 598 2515). London Overground and Southern trains run direct services to West Brompton station (for Earls Court) and Kensington (Olympia). Direct services run from Clapham Junction, Gatwick Airport, East Croydon, Watford Junction, Willesden Junction and Stratford. If you want to hop on the tube you should travel to Kensington Olympia on the District line. Buses serving Olympia are: Hammersmith Road: 9, 10, 27, 28; Holland Road: 49; North End Road: 391 and National Express offer round the clock services to the heart of London via London Victoria Coach station.

Our stand number is WM46 which is located behind the English Wine Pavilion and we look forward to meeting you there should you pop along!

Christmas Orange and Lemon Slices

2011-11-02T12:21:00.004Z

Years ago I remember that we used to have jellied Orange and Lemon Slices as sweets for Christmas but they seemed to slip off the shelves once the festivities had finished. I hadn't seen them for ages until I spotted some for sale recently.

I used to wonder how they were made and apparently they are an old German tradition, hailing from Bavaria. They are made from a mixture of sugar, water, pectin, colourants, and flavourings which is boiled and then poured into moulds. When set they are then sanded with sugar.

I have found some recipes that you can make at home and there seem to be two methods – one takes around an hour and the other takes two weeks. The longer method has far superior results and if you are making these sweets to give as Christmas presents it is the one I would choose. During the process of candying the fruits are placed in a sugar syrup which must contain a gradually higher sugar concentration every day so that the sugar permeates slowly through the cell pores. You can skip a couple of days but don't skip the 2 week duration. The Brownie Points Blog has a great version of this recipe for Orange Slices that have been partially dipped in chocolate and is well worth following to make Orange and Lemon Slices.

The Repressed Pastry Chef Blog has a good recipe for Candied Orange Slices which uses the quicker method. The only addition I would recommend is sanding the slices with sugar once they have cooled . . . unless you want to dip them in chocolate!

Home made Orange and Lemon Slices would go really well with a Sauternes and Chateau Sainte Hélène in particular has flavours of orange peel, apricots, cinnamon and honey which will compliment the sweets perfectly.

Chocolate Violet Creams For Christmas

2011-10-26T01:33:00.008+01:00

Chocolate Violet Creams are an old British favourite that have made a come back in recent years. Sarah Lawrence tells us that when the demand for violets surged Bill Keeling of Prestat's told her that: “Twice in three years, the world-wide supply of crystallised violet petals ran out.” Prestat started making violet creams in the early 20th century and actress Sarah Bernhardt commissioned an inverted Violet Cream from them, sadly a long lost recipe. I'm not sure when Violet Creams were invented but Fry's sold the first Chocolate Cream Bar in 1866 – but violet was not one of the fondant centres. They were certainly popular in the early 1900s - one of Agatha Christie’s victim’s is poisoned by a box of Violet Creams! Jean Neuhaus invented pralines in 1912 and crystallized violets are used as one of the decorative toppings.

Violets have been used in cooking as far back as the 14th century as a flavouring for desserts, salads and in stuffings for poultry or fish. When Napoleon married Josephine, she wore Violets, and on each anniversary Josephine received a bouquet of violets. Following Napoleon´s lead, the French Bonapartists chose the violet as their emblem, and nicknamed Napoleon "Corporal Violet". In 1814, Napoleon asked to visit Josephine's tomb before being exiled to the Island of St. Helena and when he died, he wore a locket around his neck that contained violets he had picked from Josephine's grave site.

The French are also known for their violet syrup, most commonly made from an extract of violets. In the United States, this French violet syrup is used to make violet scones and marshmallows. Viola essence flavours the liqueurs Creme Yvette, Creme de Violette, and Parfait d'Amour. Parfait d' Amour is a liqueur and appears to have several forms - exactly who invented it remains unclear but the House of Lucas Bols in the Netherlands claims to have originated the liqueur but so does France . The colour is a magenta and violet hue and it is flavoured with orange peel, rose petals, vanilla and almonds. It was very popular in the 19th century and was once served in French brothels as an aphrodisiac!

It is also used in Parma Violets confectionery. I must admit I have a secret love of Parma Violets and found out recently that they were launched in 1946.

I have a recipe for making my own Chocolate Violet Creams which I have yet to try but it seems fairly straight forward so I thought I'd share it with you:

3tbsp double cream
Purple food colouring
2tbsp violet syrup
275g icing sugar
200g dark chocolate, broken into small bits
1tsp groundnut oil
20 crystallised violet petals, to decorate

Put the cream, a drop of the purple food colouring and the violet syrup in a bowl and mix. Sift the icing sugar over the cream mixture and stir to combine. Tip the mixture out onto a work surface lightly dusted with icing sugar and knead the fondant with your hands until it all comes together in a firm ball. Place in the fridge for about 30 minutes.

Using your hands, roll 20 teaspoon-sized lumps of mixture into balls, then flatten them slightly and place on a plate. Heat 5cm of water in a pan. Place a heatproof bowl on top, making sure that the bottom of the bowl is not touching the water. Place the dark chocolate and the groundnut oil in the bowl and warm until melted. Remove from the heat and cool for 10 minutes.

Line a flat baking sheet with baking parchment. Take a fondant ball, one at a time, and, using two forks, dip it in the melted chocolate until coated all over. Be careful not to melt the fondant. Place the coated fondant ball onto the baking parchment. Top each chocolate with a crystallised violet petal and leave to cool and set in a cool place.

Pink Champagne Truffles for Christmas

2011-10-19T13:40:00.008+01:00

The chocolate truffle was actually invented in 1895 for a Christmas feast so it seems rather fitting that we still give them as gifts at Christmas over 100 years later! Pâtissier Louis Dufour created the first chocolate truffle in Chambéry, France after running short on ingredients for his Christmas sweets. He used the ingredients he had to hand and dusted the finished confections with cocoa powder. He named them truffles as they resembled the prized truffles found underground.

Chocolate truffles were introduced to London by Antoine Dufour and his story can be found at Prestat, one of London's oldest chocolate shops. Antoine established Prestat in 1902 and quickly became famous for its cocoa-dusted truffles, named ‘Napoleon III’ (after the 19th Century gourmand French emperor who spent several periods of exile in London with his loyal chef).

Prestat makes chocolates for Her Majesty The Queen under Royal Warrant and has a long history of celebrity customers from the actress Sarah Bernhardt in the 1910s through to Sir John Gielgud and Dame Peggy Ashcroft in the 1950s, Princess Diana in the 1990s and Stephen Fry today. Roald Dahl, author of Charlie and The Chocolate Factory, was also a fan of Prestat truffles and made them central to his novel My Uncle Oswald.

In the 1960s, a giant version of the Napoleon III truffle was created by Prestat named The Prestat Bomb truffle. It was available in Plain, Coffee and Orange flavours. Apparently Prestat are recreating it for Chocolate Week (October 10th -16th, 2011).

Prestat's Pink Champagne truffles are made with Marc de Champagne which isn't easy to find here so I have come up with a simpler recipe to try at home. Marc de Champagne is a traditional Eau de Vie (brandy) that is produced by distilling the grape skins, seeds and stalks, which are left from the pressing process in the first stages of Champagne production.

250g dark chocolate
250g milk chocolate
100 ml whipping cream
1 egg yolk, beaten
65g butter
100 ml pink champagne
4 tsp brandy
cocoa powder to dust

Combine the chocolate, butter and whipping cream in a saucepan. Heat until the chocolate has melted, stirring continuously. Add in the beaten egg yolk and stir. Return to the heat and cook for a couple of minutes, stirring continuously. Remove from heat. Stir in champagne and transfer truffle mixture to a bowl. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour. Beat cooled truffle mixture with electric mixer for about a minute. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Line a baking sheet with waxed paper. Use a small scoop to form 1 inch balls. Place each ball on the prepared baking sheet. Cover and chill in the refrigerator until firm. Roll truffles in cocoa powder. If you want to make a pink dust to coat your truffles you can use pink sanding sugar.

Crystallised Ginger for Christmas

2011-10-12T19:42:00.009+01:00

I know Christmas seems to come earlier every year but I often make things in advance so that I am not so rushed once the festive season starts. Crystallised Ginger is one of Nick's favourites and is easy to make. I have made Marrons Glacés (chestnuts candied in sugar syrup) before and the recipe is basically the same.

Crystallised fruit (or Candied or Glacé fruit) was introduced to Europe during the Crusades. Preserving food using honey or palm syrup is a long standing method and was known to Ancient China as well as Rome - the Romans even preserved fish by soaking it in honey. However in Ancient Mesopotamia (now the land corresponding to modern day Iraq, N E Syria, S E Turkey and S W Iran) crystallising fruits was a speciality of the Arabic cultures. Crystallised citrus fruits and roses were served at Arab banquets and the speciality was brought with them as the Arabs moved into parts of Southern Europe.

In France the tradition of crystallising fruit in honey goes back to the Middle Ages and Apt in Provence is still renowned for it. In 1365, when Pope Urban V came to Apt on a pilgrimage, the people of Apt gave him crystallised fruit as a gift. In 1752, the city had six pastry cooks and confectioners. 150 years later, in England, crystallised fruits from Apt became very fashionable.

Ginger was one of the first oriental spices to reach Europe but its original homeland is still uncertain – it no longer grows wild. It's thought that Ginger probably originated in southern or south eastern Asia. March Polo saw Ginger growing in China and Giovanni de Montecorvino (a Franciscan monk and missionary) wrote an eye witness account of it in southern India in 1292. Ginger takes its Latin generic name, Zingiber, from the Sanskrit for ‘horn-shaped’, singabela, emphasising this rhizome’s similarity in appearance to deer antlers.

Tudor England loved Ginger, using it in sweetmeats and cakes and it was said to have been a particular favourite of Henry VIII (perhaps because of its reputation at that time of being a powerful aphrodisiac!) Gingerbread became popular in Elizabethan times and Elizabeth I is credited with the invention of Gingerbread Men as important courtiers had “charming likenesses of themselves” given to them as gifts. In Victorian times it became a popular practice to nibble Crystallised Ginger after a meal when it was disclosed that Chinese medicine recommended it for the digestion.

When Europeans took over the spice trade they hastened to cultivate Ginger in other tropical colonies as well. Ginger was the first spice plant that spread in this way from the Old World to the New, particularly in Jamaica which continues to produce good Ginger. A Frenchman was the first to grind the Ginger root to form a powder so often used today!

Crystallised Ginger

500g fresh Ginger root (peeled and sliced very thinly)
800g sugar
1 litre water
5 green cardamom pods
1/4 tsp salt

Place the Ginger in a pan with water, bring to the boil and then simmer for about 15 minutes. Make a syrup with the sugar, cardamom pods, salt and litre of water and boil for 20 minutes before adding the Ginger. Boil for another 30 minutes. Remove the Ginger pieces from the boiling hot syrup and dip into granulated sugar. Shake off the excess sugar and place on a cooling rack until dry. Store in an airtight container for up to 3 months.

Mushrooms and M de Malle

2011-09-28T13:36:00.007+01:00

Nick picked our first mushrooms this morning whilst walking the dogs and sautéed them in butter for breakfast. They were lovely! Mushrooms are one of the most difficult foods to match with wine. I don’t mean cooking them in it – I mean pairing a mushroom dish with a wine to accompany it.

It is not as if there is just one mushroom to choose from, although our British grown Field Mushrooms that you spot nestling in the grass like an unexpected dollop of snow are my favourite. The many varieties of wild fungi and tame shop bought ones have lots of different flavours to confuse us wine enthusiasts.

France was the leader in the formal cultivation of mushrooms. Some accounts say that Louis XIV was the first mushroom grower. Around this time mushrooms were grown in special caves near Paris set aside for this unique form of agriculture. Originally, cultivation was unreliable as mushroom growers would watch for good flushes of mushrooms in fields and then dig up the mycelium, replanting in beds of composted manure or inoculating 'bricks' of compressed litter, loam and manure.

The general rule when it comes to matching a wine with your mushroom is based on how they are cooked i.e. what the sauces and spices are. French cuisine advocates that “less is more” so in other words keep it simple and you will be able to taste the flavour of the mushrooms.

You can't get much simpler than a pan of freshly picked sautéed mushrooms and Nick recommends a dry white Graves - M de Malle. This wine has quite a woody, buttery flavour which is similar to a white Burgundy from Meursault or Montrachet and would be great with your mushrooms.

M de Malle is a medium bodied white and is the dry white wine of the Sauternes Second Growth Château de Malle, owned by the Comtes de Bournazel. Château de Malle was built at the beginning of the 17th century and has remained in the same family without ever changing hands. De Malle is one of the oldest estates in Sauternes - early records suggest that the grapes were grown there are already in the 1400's, and that the wine at this time was dry and white rather than the sweet style that Sauternes later evolved into.

M de Malle is difficult to find because only 7,000 bottles are produced and we are lucky to have the 2005 vintage at Bordeaux-Und iscovered. This really is a beautiful wine: bold, brilliant green tinted gold with waxy hints of white blossoms, passion fruit, quince, spice and a good burst of lemon acidity.

Oddly enough Bordeaux has a link to cultivating mushrooms. Saint Emilion is riddled with 173 acres of catacombs that run underground. They are carved out of the soft, pale ochre limestone that was used to build Saint Emilion. Chateau Ausone sits upon 3 troglodytic caves, the smallest of which is used as an ancient wine cellar which ages the wines in a perfectly stable atmosphere. Legend has it that a Parisian mushroom grower, fleeing from the capital during the dramatic events of the Commune in 1871, set up production there. The darkness, constant temperature, aeration and high humidity of the quarries provided optimum growing conditions for mushrooms. How strange that a century later they should also be the optimum conditions for ageing wine!

Sloe Gin Liqueur Chocolates

2011-09-26T12:50:00.006+01:00

If you have been making Sloe Gin and are wondering what to do with the sloes that are left after you have strained them from the gin you can make Liqueur Chocolates with them! Sloes that are removed from the gin after 2 to 3 months are best and the stones can be removed by pressing a knife over the fruits so that they pop out.

Melt 250g of milk chocolate
Add 4oz sloes
Mix well and pour into ice cube trays
Leave to cool

I have added Almond essence to my Bullace Gin this year and will add crushed almonds to the mix when making my chocolates.

You can buy chocolate moulds and make individually filled Liqueur Chocolates each containing a plump gin infused sloe but this is quite time consuming (the best recipe I have found is here).

I was wondering who invented Liqueur Chocolates and it seems that in 1913 Swiss chocolate maker Jules Sechaud of Montreux introduced a machine process for manufacturing filled chocolates. The Swiss Master Chocolatiers Villars invented the first chocolate bar filled with liqueur in 1935, Larmes de Kirsch. Villars still make these and the fillings are Kirsch, Poire William, Cognac, Coing (Quince Liqueur), Damson Liqueur, Walnut Liqueur, Absinthe and Apricot Liqueur. They also make Larmes d'Edelweiss which is a milk chocolate bar filled with Edelweiss Liqueur!

Edelweiss Liqueur is said to have a light herbal taste with hints of honey and chestnuts. This Liqueur, distilled from Switzerland's national flower, is manufactured in small quantities in cantons Neuchtel and Valais by Christian Borel-Jaquet and Stphane Keller.

There is a tradition of making alcoholic drinks from flowers in France, Italy and Germany but the only traditional one I can think of here in the UK is Elderflower, Rose and Hawthorn which are used to make both wine and liqueur. Does anyone know of more?

Sloe Jelly, Elderberries and Blackberry Chiffon

2011-09-14T15:07:00.007+01:00

Despite the windy weather this week I managed to venture out to collect the plump sloes I spotted earlier. In the past I have made Sloe Gin but as I am trying Bullace instead this year my sloes are destined for Sloe Jelly. Sloe Jelly is great with roast venison and even better with pigeon. To make the jelly you need to collect some apples – I use whatever comes to hand be it crab apples, cooking apples or the cider apples from the orchard. A tip to keep your jelly from going cloudy is not to squeeze the jelly bag (or muslin) at the end!

Sloe Jelly

1½ lb sloes
1½ lb apples, chopped
Sugar (for every pint of strained juice use 1½ lb sugar)

Place the apples and sloes in a large jam pan (or a big heavy bottomed saucepan). Add enough water so that half the fruit is covered. Bring to the boil and then simmer until all the fruit is soft and has broken down. Pour into a jelly bag (or muslin) and leave to drip into a clean jam pan or bucket. I use muslin and stretch the piece round the top of the jam pan (not too tightly stretched) and secure it by tying with kitchen string. It can take ages to drip so I leave it over night. Measure the juice and pour into a jam pan – add 1½ lb of sugar for each pint of juice. Boil for about 10 minutes and then test for setting. When the jelly is at setting point pour into sterilised jam jars and cover. Store in a cool dark place.

Years ago sloes were used to make fake Port wine and were also added as an adulterant to impart colour and acidity to genuine port. This doesn't surprise me as Peter May of The Pinotage Club recently told Nick that he had read that it was common practice for London merchants to add colour to wine by blending in a little elderberry juice (see Nick's Blog on The Pontac Family of Haut Brion – Their Legacy: Pontac Chateaux, a London tavern, an Old English Sauce and Perhaps a Grape).

Mrs M Grieve, writing in 1931, tells us that in Kent, there were entire orchards of Elder trees cultivated solely for the sake of their fruit, which is brought regularly to market and sold for the purpose of making wine:

“The berries are not only used legitimately for making Elderberry Wine, but largely in the manufacture of so-called British wines - they give a red colour to raisin wine - and in the adulteration of foreign wines. Judiciously flavoured with vinegar and sugar and small quantities of port wine, Elder is often the basis of spurious 'clarets' and Bordeaux. 'Men of nice palates,' says Berkeley (Querist, 1735), 'have been imposed on by Elder Wine for French Claret.' Cheap port is often faked to resemble tawny port by the addition of Elderberry juice, which forms one of the least injurious ingredients of factitious port wines. Doctoring port wine with Elderberry juice seems to have assumed such dimensions that in 1747 this practice was forbidden in Portugal, even the cultivation of the Elder tree was forbidden on this account.”

I have a good recipe for Roast Duck with Elderberries here.

I also have an unusual recipe for blackberries that I spotted in our Parish Magazine. It is for Blackberry Chiffon. I had not come across the word Chiffon being used in a culinary manner before and was intrigued. Apparently Chiffon is a word used to describe a food with a light fluffy texture, usually created by the addition of whipped egg white or gelatine. It is derived from the old French word chiffe meaning ‘flimsy stuff’.

Blackberry Chiffon

1 packet of trifle sponges or boudoir biscuits
a little sherry to moisten
1 lb blackberries
1packet of blackcurrant jelly
2 large eggs
3 oz caster sugar
cream

Gently stew the blackberries with the sugar, drain and keep the juice (about 1/4 pint). Make the blackcurrant jelly up to 3/4 pint with the blackberry juice. (Alternatively, use gelatine, sugar and blackberry juice). Use a little of the jelly with the sherry to moisten the sponges. Leave on one side to cool but not set.

Whisk the egg yolks with sugar until thick. Separately, whisk the egg whites until stiff. Combine the yolks and jelly, then whisk into the whites. Pour over the fruit and chill. When set and cold, decorate with whipped cream.

Enjoy!

Fruits of the Field Hedgerows: Wild Plums (Bullace), Lamb and Red Wine

2011-09-09T13:28:00.006+01:00

Whilst walking the dogs the other day I noticed some plump sloes growing on a Blackthorn tree in the hedgerow – you are supposed to pick them after the first frost but we have an early fruit harvest this year so I think I will return in a week or so and gather them up to make Sloe Jelly. I was quite surprised at how fat and round they were to neighbouring Blackthorns which were withered with the drought.

Further down the hedge was a fruit that made me stop in my tracks: wild damsons! Our damsons in the orchard ripened weeks ago but these little fruits were still clinging to the tree. I tasted one of the wild ones and got quite a shock, the inky purple skin was quite tart with a mouth puckering dryness that is similar to a sloe . . . but the flesh inside gave a burst of sweetness. I think they are purple bullaces instead!

Bullaces are wild plums (which are related to sloes) – in fact the damson is a the cultivated form of the bullace (probably developed during Roman times) and this is why they are so hard to tell apart – until you taste one! If you'd like to learn more about damsons and recipes using them see my blog: Damsons, Mirabelles and Les Eymeries. Damsons are much sweeter than bullaces.

Bullaces can be used in pies, jams, game sauces, jellies and chutneys. They can also be used to make Bullace Gin (in the same way as sloes) and Bullace Wine. Mine will be used in Bullace Gin! This year I am going to add some almond essence to give it a lift (you can also use orange zest, cloves and cinnamon) – I'll let you know how it turns out.
If there are any left over there is a recipe which uses them with Sautéed Lamb:

Sautéed Lamb with Wild Plum (Bullace) and Fig

1.5 kg lamb shoulder, boned and cut in pieces
800 g wild plums (bullace), stoned
800 g figs
2 onions
1 garlic clove
4 blades of parsley
30 g butter
1 tbsp peanut oil
200 ml dry white wine
salt and pepper

In the mixture of butter and oil fry the lamb on all sides with onions to a nice golden colour for approximately 10 minutes. Add white wine, salt , pepper, garlic and parsley, stir, cover and cook for 30 minutes on low heat. Add the bullace and figs and mix gently. Add some hot water if necessary. Check the taste and continue to cook for about 20 minutes.

Nick recommends a medium bodied red wine with this dish and Chat eau Chevalier d'Albran would be ideal. It has a high percentage of Merlot in the blend (70%) and is smooth and elegant with notes of blackberry, vanilla, strawberry and ripe plum. You'll find its full, fruity flavours really enhance the meal. It is made by Chateau Mondain in the tiny hamlet of Juillac, close to Castillon La Bataille, on the left bank of the River Dordogne.

The Ciroli family have been making wine here since the second world war and the third generation are now in charge. No one knows when vines were first planted here but Juillac is named after the Roman Julius, who owned the land and Aqua (ac) meaning “Julius' villa on the river.” The Ciroli's named Chevalier d'Albran in homage to the legendary Knight who defended Juillac during the Aquitaine Conquests in the late 1350s against The Black Prince. It's said the Black Prince, son of King Edward III, acquired his name from the ornate black armour his father gave him when he was 16 after his victory at Crecy. Darker tales say he got his nick name due to his marauding through the lands of Juillac, Armagnac and Asterac!

Enjoy!

The Changing of the Seasons, Jasmine, Beef Stew and Chateau Peynaud

2011-08-31T14:34:00.011+01:00

With the cooling of the air it seems as if we will be having an early Autumn here this year. The leaves have already started to turn colour and part of me is sad to see the flowers of Summer disappear. However Autumn is my favourite season so the other part of me is glad. I was asked to write a Beef recipe recently and I thought it would be interesting to combine the scents of Summer with the warmer tones of Autumn to mark the changing of the seasons.

Whilst writing about Scented Geraniums, Gin, Ice Cream and Sparkling Comte de Laube I had spotted a news item on Jasmine flavoured Vodka and thought that Jasmine would be the perfect Summer scented ingredient to combine with my Beef recipe. The Jasmine HR Vodka by the way is made by Maison René Laclie (who were established in 1889) and is the result of cooperation between a Cognac producer and a young perfume designer. This is the first time a French vodka has been blended with Jasmine and it is said to be ideal with Champagne or in cocktails. Apparently the company plan to extend their range to include a Ylang Ylang flavoured vodka in the future. I must admit that the Jasmine Vodka appeals to me but a Ylang Ylang? I'm not so sure.

The French are known for their Jasmine Syrup, most commonly made from an extract of jasmine flowers and Monin is a famous producer. The syrup is used in drinks and cocktails as well as a flavouring in baking, desserts and marshmallows. However I was thinking of using Jasmine Rice in my Beef dish and was surprised to learn that Jasmine Rice does not have any Jasmine in it all.

I had thought that it was flavoured with Jasmine essence but is actually a rice named Hom Mali Rice and is native to Thailand. Grown only in a selected part of the north eastern region of Thailand, this rice is as white as the colour of the Jasmine flower and has the fragrant aroma of Pandan Leaves (which are widely used in Asian cuisine for their botanical and nutty taste). When cooked, Jasmine Rice has a subtle nutty sweetness in its flavour.

As Jasmine is the national flower of Tunisia and Damascus is known as the City of Jasmine I wanted to make a Middle Eastern dish. Beef and Runner Bean Stew is a popular family meal in Egypt, Syria and the Lebanon and the flavours will not overpower the aroma of the Jasmine Rice. Making this dish will also help me to use up the last of our Runner Beans, which despite the drought, are still tender and delicate!

Beef and Runner Bean Stew

1 kg stewing beef
1 kg fresh runner beans3 tbsp tomato purée
3 onions, chopped3 tbsp oilsalt and black pepperpinch of nutmeg
pinch of cinnamon
1 bag Jasmine Rice

Wash, string and cut the runner beans in half. If you don't have any runner beans you can use French beans instead. Fry the onions in oil in a large saucepan until golden. Add the meat and brown. Add the beans and fry very gently until slightly softened. Stir in the tomato purée. Cover with water, season with salt and pepper, and bring to the boil. Cover the pan and simmer gently for about 1 ½ hours until the sauce is quite thick. Add more water if necessary during the cooking time. Serve on a bed of Jasmine rice.

Before cooking the Jasmine Rice should be rinsed. I'd recommend steaming the Jasmine Rice - Thai cooks actually wrap bundles of rinsed rice grains in muslin and suspend them in a steamer so that the rice cooking by steaming, and never touches the water at all. If boiling it use 1 1/2 cups of water to 1 cup of Jasmine Rice.

Nick recommends a well balanced red wine to pair with this dish that will compliment the flavours. Chateau Peynaud 2006 is a cracking Bordeaux Superieur and has notes of cigar box spice, cassis, plum, red fruits and smoke. It is a medium bodied, rich and complex wine and can age for up to 10 years and will go well with all red meats, furred and feathered game, strong cheeses and nut based dishes as well as Indian vegetarian cuisine.

Enjoy!

Scented Geraniums, Gin, Ice Cream and Sparkling Comte de Laube

2011-08-04T14:50:00.008+01:00

When we first came to Hillfield House the mature gardens needed a little loving care but there was one plant I could not bear to pull out. It was Herb Robert (we know it as the Headache Flower locally). It is native to the UK and belongs of the Geranium family. Geraniums do particularly well in our gardens here – a little too well in fact! Geraniums and Pelargoniums are related – true Geraniums are often referred to as Cranes Bill due to the shape of their seed head after the flowers fade, whilst Pelargoniums are known as Storks Bill.

Pelargoniums were discovered growing at the Cape of Good Hope in South Africa in the early 1600s and Charles I's botanist and chief plant finder John Tradescent (c1570-1638) introduced the plant to England. What we know as Scented Geraniums are actually Pelargoniums and there are many varieties whose leaves smell of rose, lemon, coconut, mint, strawberry, spice, pine and apple. Growing Scented Geraniums became a popular pastime in Victorian England. The Victorians raised the plants in heated greenhouses and this craze continued until 1914 when fuel to heat the greenhouses was banned due to the war, and the practice died away.

Certain Pelargoniums are important in the perfume industry and are cultivated and distilled for their scent. The edible leaves and flowers are also used as a flavouring in desserts, cakes, jellies and teas. I have even spotted a Geranium Gin made by Henrik Hammer: Geranium Premium London Dry Gin. Henrik has been working with gin for many years, hosting gin tastings, seminars and as a judge for the gin category at The International Wine & Spirit Competition. The botanicals are matured for 48 hours and then distilled in 100% pure grain spirit (English Wheat) spirit in a 100 year old copper pot still called ‘Constance’ at Langley Distillery, Birmingham – a 200 year old family owned gin distillery. Apparently the gin has a delicate taste of juniper, a crisp citrus-rosy aroma from the geranium and exotic notes from eight other botanicals.

I have found a super summer recipe for using Scented Geranium leaves . . . Ice Cream! You can use Rose or Lemon Scented Geranium, whichever you prefer.

Lemon Geranium Ice Cream

300 ml milk
10 - 12 Lemon Scented Geranium leaves, crushed
3 egg yolks
100 g icing sugar
300 ml whipping cream
Lemon Scented Geranium leaves, to decorate

Add the milk and geranium leaves to a pan and bring almost to the boil. Remove from the heat and leave to infuse for 30 minutes. Remove the geranium leaves. Whisk the egg yolks and sugar together in a bowl until pale and frothy. Stir in the milk, then strain back into the pan. Cook the custard gently over a low heat, stirring continuously, until it coats the back of a wooden spoon. Do not boil.

Pour into a shallow freezer container, cool, then cover and freeze for 2 hours, until mushy. Whip the cream until stiff, then fold into the semi frozen custard. Return to the freezer container and freeze for a further 2 hours. Remove from the freezer and place the mixture into a chilled bowl and beat well again. Return to the freezer and freeze until firm. Transfer to the refrigerator to soften for 30 minutes before serving. Decorate with geranium leaves.

Sparkling wine would be a great accompaniment to this dessert and Comte de Laube is a good choice. It is made from grapes grown in the South West of France and the vineyards of the Loire Valley. This is an elegant and delicate sparkling wine fizzing with fine, long lasting bubbles. Made from a blend of Chardonnay, Folle Blanche, Ugni Blanc and Chenin Blanc Comte de Laube has subtle notes of lemon, toasted almonds, greengage, apple and broom blossom. On the palate, it reveals slight floral touches of quite surprising finesse. The finish is pleasantly and very slightly fruity.

Enjoy!

Saffron, a Recipe and M de Malle

2011-08-02T21:23:00.005+01:00

Having discovered Saffron Gin recently I was surprised to learn that you can grow saffron here in the UK. England was a major saffron producer in the 14th century during the reign of Edward III. The price rocketed as saffron based medicines were thought to protect against the Black Death. It's thought that the saffron came to England via Rhodes as the Moors introduced saffron to France in AD 732.

Saffron was cultivated throughout Norfolk, Suffolk and south Cambridgeshire as well as Essex. The town of Saffron Walden got its name as a saffron growing and trading centre. Its name was originally Cheppinge Walden and the name was changed to show the importance of the crop to the local area; and today the town's arms feature crocus blooms.

During the 16th and 17th centuries many people holding a small amount of land planted saffron as a cash crop. You can still see vestiges of our saffron producing past in place names such as Saffron Hill in East London, where the plant was grown for over 500 years. British saffron was produced at a farm in Wrexham in north east Wales up until the late 1990s but now many people are growing it themselves. Apparently the flavour of home-grown saffron is mellower and richer than that grown in a hotter climate. Suttons sell the saffron crocus, Crocus sativus, and it can survive well here as it is tolerant to summer heat and winter cold.

Saffron has a strong perfume and a metallic, honey-like taste that some people say reminds them of sweet hay. The recipe that I thought would go best is Rabbit With Saffron but if you don't want to use rabbit you could use chicken.

Rabbit with Saffron

1 large rabbit cut into pieces
10 saffron threads
4 small leeks
30 cl dry white wine
20cl single cream
1 chicken stock cube
Flour
Dijon Mustard
Parsley
Salt and pepper
2 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp butter

Chop the leeks into small strips (I like to use the green as well as the white parts). Brown the rabbit pieces in a mixture of oil and butter. Sprinkle the rabbit pieces with flour. Add the wine, 20cl of water and chicken stock cube. Then add the sliced leeks. Bring to a boil, then cook over low heat for one hour.

Then, in a bowl, mix the cream, mustard and parsley together. Add the saffron. Pour the sauce into the pan containing the rabbit and simmer for 10 minutes at very low heat.

This will pair beautifully with M de Malle. It's a lovely wine: bold, brilliant green tinted gold with hints of white blossoms, passion fruit, quince, spice and a good burst of lemon acidity. M de Malle is made in the Graves vineyards of the Sauternes Second Growth Château de Malle, owned by the Comtes de Bournazel who have 400 years of wine making experience – it really is wine with a touch of class! It's also good with chicken, duck, pork, feathered game such as guinea fowl and pheasant, salmon, seafood, creamy pasta dishes and soft cheeses.

Enjoy!

Wines and Spirits Based on Herbs and Spices

2011-07-20T14:58:00.005+01:00

I was wondering if Europe had a history of making wines from herbs as we do have a tradition of making wines from flowers (I've just made a batch of Elderflower Wine). Asia has a long history of herbal beverages and Nick came across some archaeological research which suggests that the ancient Egyptians infused wine with herbal medicines as early as 3150 BCE. The data revealed the presence of tree resin and a number of possible herbs in the wine residue, including savory, balm, senna, coriander, mint, sage, and thyme.

The Egyptians were not the first to make wine, but they were the first to record the process of wine making and celebrate its values. The Ancient Egyptians recorded the harvest of grapes on stone tablets and the walls of their tombs. The Egyptians also had designated areas for growing their vines, much like Bordeaux has today.

I suppose that the nearest European equivalent to these ancient wines would be the aromatised wine Vermouth such as Noilly Prat, Martini & Rossi and Cinzano (for more information on see Nick's Blog on Fortified Wines, Ancient Egypt and Vermouth).

I have spotted that a Slovakian spirits company named Karloff has recently launched what it claims are the world's first wine-based saffron drinks. Saffroni Aperitivo and Saffroni Vermouth are made from white wine, natural herb extracts and saffron, renowned as the most expensive spice in the world. The producers recommend that you try it in a cocktail called Safrito:

Safrito

6cl of Saffroni Aperitivo
2 cl of Saffron Gin
2 cl of apple or orange juice
Serve with an olive and decorate with a slice of orange

France's leading micro-distiller Gabriel Boudier of Dijon (founded in 1874) makes Saffron Gin from a recipe that they rediscovered in their archives. The gin is made from saffron and an intriguing mix of juniper, coriander, lemon, orange peel, angelica seeds, iris and fennel.

Sub Rosa make an Saffron Vodka as well as an unusual Tarragon Vodka. Sub Rosa Spirits is an Oregon craft micro distillery and their Tarragon Vodka has the slightest hint of liquorice that occurs naturally in tarragon. They suggest a Martini with a lemon peel or a touch of Limoncello is the first cocktail you should try with their Tarragon Vodka.

The Saffron Vodka is intense and complex and has toasted cumin on the nose, lemony coriander on the mid-palate, a hint of ginger, just a touch of heat and the aromatics of saffron at the end. Sub Rosa Spirits are available in Oregon, California,Washington State, Colorado, New Mexico and Washington D.C.

If anyone knows of other wines or spirits based on herbs and spices please let me know! If these are not to you taste then wines I can recommend that have a herby or fresh cut hay taste to them are those with Sauvignon Blanc in the blend (try Chateau Sainte Marie – this wine pairs well with summer salads of rocket, balsamic vinegar and laced with nuts or for a red wine try Chateau Millet Lartigue with its notes of cedar and dried herbs). For a peppery and spicy touch I'd suggest Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blends such as Chateau du Touginas or Chateau Loyasson.

Marjoram, the Herb of Grace – Recipes for Barbeques and Good Wine!

2011-07-06T14:48:00.010+01:00

Looking out at the dark steel blue thunder clouds coming in off the horizon there is one little plant in the herb garden that shines out against them – my Golden Marjoram (Origanum vulgare 'Aureum'). It's small, bright yellow-green leaves stand out in the gloom and are soon to burst out into lavender coloured flowers. Folklore has it that if Marjoram and Wild Thyme are laid near milk in a dairy, they will prevent it being turned by thunder. I will have to try this out one day!

Marjoram is of the Oregano family and my plant belongs to the Sweet Marjoram group that have a milder, sweeter flavour than their cousins. It has a distinctive aroma and a taste of citrus and sweet pine which is a sort of cross between Thyme and the stronger flavoured Oregano. When used in cooking it's best to add the Marjoram at the end as its delicate flavour can get lost in the dish if you don't.

Marjoram is used across the Mediterranean – in France it's called Marjolaine and is used in the Herbes de Provence. There is even a Chateau de Marjolaine in Bordeaux! Shakespeare referred to it in his Sonnet 99 and called it “the Herb-of-Grace" in All´s Well that Ends Well.

It was believed that the goddess of love, Venus (Aphrodite), created the plants and gave them their wonderful sweet flavour and scent. Both the ancient Greeks and Romans would crown bridal couples with wreaths of Marjoram to symbolize love honour and happiness and this was still common practice in the UK in the Middle Ages. Indeed our modern bridal bouquets have their origins in the posies of herbs. Folklore has it that if you anointed yourself with Marjoram you would dream of your future spouse. Marjoram was called amaracum in Latin and this is thought to have come from the word for love, amor, so that might explain Marjoram’s reputation as aphrodisiac in Roman literature!

Marjoram was also used as a strewing herb on the floors to sweeten the air as it was trodden upon and in 17th century England it was an ingredient of snuff. They then decided to put it in their beer, as a preservative and to give an aromatic flavour! Over the years, Marjoram has been used as a remedy to aid digestion and Marjoram Oil is said to relieve toothache. Marjoram continues to be used as a steam inhalant to clear the sinuses and relieve laryngitis. European singers have been known to preserve their voices with Marjoram tea sweetened with honey.

I have two good recipes for Marjoram that are suitable for summer al fresco dining or a barbeque.

Pork and Marjoram Pâté

300 g pork liver
2 onions
2 cloves of garlic
50 g butter
salt and freshly ground black pepper
a small glass of port
300 g pork loin
300 g ham
250 g of single cream
large handful of fresh marjoram
slices of streaky bacon

Cut the liver, pork loin and ham into small pieces, peel and chop the onion and garlic. Brown the liver and pork loin all in the hot fat and stir, season with salt and pepper and then add the port. Cool and then liquidize with the ham. Add the cream and marjoram.

Line a tin with strips of streaky bacon and fill it with the liquidized mixture. Cover with slices of streaky bacon. Cover the tin with foil and bake for 1 1/2 hours in a moderate oven in a bain-marie. Cool.

Garnish with black peppercorns and sprigs of marjoram.

Pork Chops with Marjoram

4 pork chops
4 tbsp olive oil
large handful of fresh marjoram
salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the best effect you can season your olive oil with sprigs of marjoram and use this once the herb has steeped in the oil long enough to impart its flavour. Brush the pork chops with your marjoram oil and marinate for 1 hour.

Grill the chops on the barbecue. Garnish with fresh marjoram.

A good wine to pair with these recipes is Sancet (£6.84) which comes from the Côtes de Gascogne appellation. Domaines de Sancet lie in Saint-Martin-d'Armagnac on a sloping plateau facing the Pyrenean mountains. This area is very well-known for its strong culinary tradition with duck and foie gras and the production of Armagnac (the oldest brandy in France). Domaine de Sancet is owned by the mayor of the village, Alain Faget, who also makes Armagnac, Floc, liqueurs and wines under the Madirans and Pacherenc appellations.

Sancet is beautifully balanced, bright, and refreshing with lush flavours of ripe pear, melon, guava, cucumber, apple and lemon. There is a light beeswax note which adds complexity, a hint of slight sweetness and a touch of minerality on the finish. It is great with pork as well as poultry, game birds (Guinea Fowl), seafood such as Bouillabaise and Paella, Asian cuisine and strong cheeses.

Enjoy!